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I have read all post here and it is great. Currently, I have a 95 Nissan ALtima GXE - auto, it just hit 40k mile, I am going to do a tune-up on it. ( I bought it used and there is no sign that the previous owner did any major work on it, maybe some inspection.) I checked with 2 local Nissan dealer, they suggested me to do a total job which include transmission, A/C , wheel alignment/balance, engine valve adjustment, and check brake..., but they also say they didn't see anything is wrong when I ask them if there anything wrong they noticed. The other local auto-shop just recommend me to do a transmission fluid change, check brake, fluid, change engin oil and some minor check. The price from Nissan dealer is around $400 and $85 from the auto-shop mechanic. I don't want to run the car with risk, but I don't really think a 95 Nissan need that much work? Can I get some valuable information from any one who has experience on Japenese car, especailly on Nissan? Any input will be appreciate! Thanks in advance.
If that second mechanic is a guy you trust, have him do these things for you. There is no reason to pay a dealer that much for basic inspections.
Thanks in advance!!
If the transmission is a standard transmission, then the transmission drain plug should have a magnet on its end that captures metal particles. Manual transmissions have to be drained and filled from below, though, and filling may be difficult without the right tools..
How about the wheel bearings?
Does the wagon have roof rack? Sometimes these can set up a drumming sound that is surprisingly loud ...it will usually occur within a fairly narrow range of road speeds.
Check the roof rack for any looseness, maybe move the transverse bars a few inches and see if that helps. If the Sable has a roll-down rear window (I can't picture it) you can also have a passenger ride in the rear and reach out the open rear window and grasp the roof rack when the noise starts. Another way to check out the roof-rack theory is to tie a rope to the center of the transverse member and take the free end of the rope in the passenger window. When the noise starts, pull on the rope to add tension to the roof-rack member. If the noise pitch changes, you're on the right track.
I had two tsbs fixed on my honda at 66,000 miles. The dealer did it with no problems.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Tom
thx
joe
Hope this helps.
Suggest that you go to a good body shop, one that does major repairs including frame straightening. They have diagrams for each vehicle type that show the frame dimensions. Ask them to check the frame for any damage. Expect to pay a small amount for the check; then use their information to decide what to do and who should do it.
I think I have tracked down the noise and it is the engine cooling fan. (Once it disengages after initial starting, I don't think the fan clutch is releasing all the way) But every time I take it to the dealership, the noise will not present itself, so they won't even look at it.
So, I checked Alldata to see if there were any TSB's relating to this, and I found 2 that look like they might help me diagnose my problem
TSB Number Title
07-05-98 Engine cooling fan noise
07-09-98 Viscous Fan Drive Service
Does anybody here have access to the actual writeups on these TSB's? I would like to be able to go to the dealership with the TSB writups in hand so they can see exactly what the problem is and fix it. (no more of the "we can't create it, so you must be imagining it crap)
thanks for your help!
I, too, would like to hear if anyone knows of a no-cost access to the TSB texts.
It stands for technical service bulletin.
They are just means of communication from the
corporate tech center to dealer service dept.
It may or may not pertain your case and the dealer
has no obligation whatsoever to do things mentioned on the bulletins.
I wanted to share with you a problem and it's solution. Tall tires look great on trucks/SUVs and have a functional calling to some drivers. But they can throw off your speedometer readings.
When choosing a new "custom-look" tire for your vehicle, try to keep to the truck manufacturer's specs. If you go to a taller or shorter tire, then the speedometer readings will be affected. Why? The speedometer gets its readings from a gear or sensor on the transmission output shaft. The auto maker calibrated the speedo (speedometer) to read relative to the revolution rate ("angular velocity" for you physics cognicenti) of the transmission output shaft and an expected tire height. If you change the diameter of your tire, then you affect the revolution rate.
To understand this, compare an amusement park ferris wheel to the wheel of the child's tricycle wheel. One revolution of a rolling ferris wheel in 1 hour would cover more distance than 1 revolution of the tricycle wheel. Yet both did 1 revolution in one hour. Without my going into the high-school-level math, this means that the taller (larger diameter) tire covers more distance per revolution. Bottom line: Taller "custom" tires cause lower speedo readings.
Speeding ticket while paced?
Before I go further, let me emphasize that I do not condone speeding where against the law. As I said, the taller tire could cause your speedo to show a legal speed when, in actuality, your car was traveling faster. If you are pulled over for speeding and the law officer claims to have "paced" you (traveled behind you and watched his/her own speedo) as above the speed limit, then it's still remotely possible that the officer is in error, as well. (Questioning this is probably best left for "Trial by Judge" than "Trial by Roadside Jury.")
Here's why. Tire diameter is affected by air pressure as well. On cold days, the tire pressure is lower (remember the Ideal Gas Law from Chemistry and Physics?). If the tires' pressure is lower. then the diameter of the tire is shorter (roughly akin to a slightly flat tire). This, in turn, causes the law officer's speedo to read higher than the actual MPH that you might have been traveling. Tread wear on the tire has a less dramatic effect on this diameter problem, but exacerbates the problem nonetheless. I should also note that driving warms up tires.
Solution to speedo error.
Try to keep to the manufacturer's recommended tire height (don't mistake this "tire height" to mean the "height of the sidewall"). Keep the tires properly inflated. If you go to a taller/shorter diameter tire for your car or truck, then consult the tire shop or your local "speed shop" for a solution to correct the speedo reading. Usually, the solution involves reconnecting the speedo cable first through a little (after-market) drive-gear assembly. This assembly changes/corrects the cable's rotational-speed ratio to the speedo. If you've got an electronic sensor on your transmission that informs your electronic speedo then you've got more expensive problems that I can't help.
Have fun! Be courteous out there! :-)
Here is their URL http://forum.onecenter.com/bat/
Also realize that if you can go to Alldata or nhtsa,or the dealer,and provide them with the TSB number,it will help them to provide the info needed.Check them out,if you like it great,if not,that is fine too.The only reason that I post their URl is because you asked if there was a source for TSB info,they are the only ones I know that sometimes will provide it.And they do not charge for any info they give(how long that will last,I don't know).I hope this helps.
so if you're getting static about what you think is a problem covered in a TSB, you might want to try another dealership.
I have a 1999 Mazda 626 (4 months old) and I had to bring it in because the light came on. I was told that there was no problem and that they reset the "code" on the emission sensor and that should take care of it. Needless to say, the light is back on the day after having it "fixed". While I was waiting on my car, another owner of a 626 brought their car in for the same reason, only this was the second time that the light had come on in a matter of months.
I would appreciate anyone out there that is having the same problem to please let me know.
Thank you in advance!
If the gas cap is loose at all, the check engine light can come on.
To reset the light, you can just disconnect the red battery terminal for 10 or 15 minutes, then reconnect it.
So next time the light comes on, check the gas cap when you get home, and then try the battery trick.
Dave
WHY pay when you can get the TSB's for FREE from the NHTSA!
fastdriver