Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options
Waxes And Polishes
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
have is on the black plastic door sills (running between the wheel wells, below the doos) - these appear whitish & dried up, despite repeated cleaning & re-application. Also, I somehow got a narrow nick(like a razor-cut) 1/8" long on the Zainoed surface. I applied the Gloss Enhancer (Z7, I think it is) followed by Z2 on the spot as a temporary fix. Any suggestions to solve the white stuff & this nick. Thx.
As for Applying it, I've basically put it on the applicator making a X inside a box formation, the most important thing I realized when applying it was the edge of the pad would suck of some of it but not the rest, so you have to have the edge of the pad with the heaviest amounts. And as I said, I let it sit for a LONG time, so that there's no smearing, it should come off easy with no residue, if not, just let it sit longer... Overnight drying is by far the best for me, because I won't use the car late on a worknight, I've even waxed the car starting at 11 and 12 at night, because if I am stripping the car, I don't want a lot of sunlight to affect my job or it drying too quickly.. then when I wake up, I simply wipe it off while I'm smoking my morning cigarette... easy enough.
-The Darkness
I have another question I used the tire stuff on my truck and went down a dirt road and the dust stuck to the tires pretty good? I didn't think I could screw that one up but I will ask anyway?
What I did was applied Z-5 to my hood (I previously had to strip it b/c of a misapplication) and while that was drying washed and z'd my tired, which came out fantastic, but you have to clean them pretty good before you Z-16 them, if you do there should be no problems, I let both set overnight, and didn't have to remove the Z-16 it just dries itself, and the Z-5 was set... to clean the dirt off, say it's wet out and you go down a dirt road, just wipe em down with an old rag and some room temp water... it won't remove the Z-16, and you'll keep the shiny look, best yet it takes only 3-5 minutes at most to regain that perfect shine... God I sound like a salesman... ugh, shoot me if I continue to talk like this...
-The Darkness
Has anyone found a good source for 100% cotton made in USA wash mitt with a good long nap?
Thanks
Tomcat
-The darkness
Thanks!
Yes it does, but less than #26.
(a) safely remove/hide the heavy swirl marks and minor scratches on (96) Dodge Spruce Green (I think Metallic) Paint
(b) wax/polish the finish. (No "Z" brand please, no time to wait for delivery)
(c) effectively & safely clean the abundantly plastic interior (soap & water have not done the trick)
(d) restore richness to the faded and discolored interior black and grey trim, (ArmorAll has not worked for me)
(e) clean mildly soiled carpets and seats
I thank you in advance.
http://www.dccarcare.com/wurth.html
for "Detailing this weekend",
I like Meguiars Gold Class in the paste version. Seems to go on with almost no powder, easy on and off, and lasts about as long as most products. No special prep needed, and only one step. For those swirls and scratches try to find Meguiars #7 polish it is used on some of the most expensive cars in the world (the first Million Dollar Duesey for example) and has worked on all of my cars. This is VERY mild polish and won't take out heavy marks, but for the light stuff, it's great, You can wax right on top of it.
Lexol Vinylex is great for vinyl, or if you can't find that, Meguiars makes a good vinyl cleaner and conditioner that I like.
For the faded grey and black trim, I still have to recommend Wurth Rubber Care.
You can find most of this locally if you check out painters supply stores, they usually have a better selection of meguiars products than some of the auto parts stores. Wurth is kind of hard to find, but a lot of body shops use it, so call around (and again, try the body/paint shop supply places, you can buy retail there too)
To clean cloth seats and carpets, I like Blue Coral Dri Clean. it is a pinkish liquid in a trigger spray bottle that I often find in K-Mart or Wal-Mart. It works VERY well. One caution.....DO NOT soak your carpets with buckets of water and soap. You will just invite mold and mildew along with rust. You can work in the Dri-Clean with your fingertips and then buff lightly with a towel (doesn't even need to be 100% cotton!)
Don M>
Tomcat
You don't want a cotton wash mitt--you want lambswool, real or synthetic. Cotton is good for a clean (i.e., well-washed) surface, so you can use it to dry or polish (though I prefer chamois or the Absorber for drying). However, when you are DOING the washing, the wool will pull the dirt away from the surface; with cotton, the towel/mitt will rub the dirt into the finish. Most auto stores (e.g., Pep boys) will have the wool mitts.
- Bolo
By the way (stillwater) I found a large sponge covered in 100% cotton made by Simoniz, it has 1" long twisted cotton fibres and does an excellent job of washing, found it up here in Canada.
dian2,
I also had (have) the same problem. I repeated the use of Dawn on those spots (mostly hard to get to lines), and it seems to do the job "slowly". Translated: I get rid of some of it each time, but not all of it has been removed.
At least no one but me seems to see it!
what about thoose informercials with the spray on type of wax that sets up easily and wipes off just as quickly? Are they any good? I am specifically talking about HydroWax?
I own a 1995 Chevy Blazer LS. Two tone paint, Teal and Silver. Pretty car in great shape.
any suggestions on what to get and how to apply it?
Thanks,
Ben
coldslide2netscape.net
Following the advice of the friends on this Topic List, I ordered Zaino products and applied it on my new car. WOW... The results were simply unbelievable. You don't know how much I thank everyone for recommending Zaino to me. The people on this list really know what is best for our cars!!
-Joseph.
But what about us poor slobs who just want to have a nice looking car,in my case SUV, without spending these high prices for products such as Zaino, etc.?
I am just a working guy who wants to wash his car weekly and wax/polish his car a few times per year. I don't want this whole car cleaning system with clay and stuff.
What would you suggest for a guy like myslef? And please, no wise [non-permissible content removed], sarcastic, smart [non-permissible content removed] remarks.
Thanks,
Slider
Don't tell me about Consumers Reports or Consumer Digests. I looked, they have nothing of use.
Any would be of help.
Thanks,
Slider
I hear ya. Look at the other waxes & finishes topic in this same forum (Maintainance & Repair). I still say that Zaino is the best product out there. But you too can be the judge of that. There are many "normal" wax products on the market, and the other topic does contain many comparisons of them.
Even if you do/don't the math, Zaino is still the best(z-1,z-2). Given your post, don't do the claying. But in all fairness, whether you use a conventional wax or Zaino, claying does make the finish more smooth.
For whatever reason/s, people have made out Zaino to be harder/longer to apply than conventional wax/polish. NOTHING could be further from the truth!!
If you use #7 Meguairs and finish with #26 you will know what I mean about Zaino being less work by far. This combination (by their own web site) lasts at most 1- 1.5 months. The cleaner wax although one step in nature, lasts considerably less than the #7,#26. If you like to do TYBO waxing, then more sweat to you, for sweat you will!!
It's about half the cost of Zaino.
I tried duragloss....
There is so much mis-information about this topic because there have been so many bad products and scam artists over the years.
One topic that I would like to address is the one that clay removes wax. A couple of points. If you expect to remove all of your wax by one clay session (for example, to then apply Zaino) you should take more steps. Clay glides on a layer of liquid and only really touches the paint where things stick out of if (if you use the clay correctly) thus it can't really effect the main surface layer that much. If you use a detergent as lubricant, that detergent will remove much more wax than the clay itself. On the other side of the coin, if you want to clay between waxings, you can be assured that you won't remove all of your wax in one clay session!
Don
I bought:
Deep Crystal System Polish
" " " Carnauba Wax
Gold Class Clear Coat Prep and Swirl Reducer
I paid $23 for everything.
I have a bad back so I went a bought a 9 5/8" Bufer/Polisher from Sears. Lifetime guarantee! ($57.00)
So now I am waiting for Saturday (70 degrees, early morning) and I'm gonna make my car shine like a mother******!
I can't wait!
Thanks guys,
Slider
I recently got a new car and the dealer gave me a bottle of sealant and told me I could have as much as I wanted. Can someone tell me the advantages/disadvantages of a sealant versus a wax or polish. After reading through all the posts here, I was thinking about getting some Zaino (money is not really an issue, but of course the sealant is free). Can I use both? I also saw a commercial tonight for a sealant called Prolong that is supposed to better than any wax. Has anyone used this Prolong stuff? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
HWeb2
There are 2 basic ways to protect your finish: one is with a wax and the other is with a sealant. Waxes are products like carnauba, montan, paraffin, etc. These products are designed to be sacrificial, i.e. to wear off gradually while still protecting your finish.
Sealants are synthetic products, i.e. polymers. These include Finish First, Klasse, Nu-Finish, Zaino, etc. They are similar to the clearcoat of paint on your car. Some products contain both, i.e. Meguiar's Medallion,etc. Only if a product truly seals your paint and prevents it from "breathing", i.e. passing solvent gases into the atmosphere will you have problems.
What was your experience w/ Duragloss?
The ONLY reason anyone would have trouble removing Z-1 or Z-2 is because they applied too much or they didn't let it dry thoroughly!
Just my 2 cents.
fastdriver
The hood on my BLACK GTP has dozens of these white splotches... Its driving me crazy... Which leads to my second question... Where do I get clay? There is no Pepboys anywhere near me, no Autozone, Summit doesn't carry it anymore, etc etc...
Right now, I'm using Meguiars Crystal Polish System, as I feel stupid buying Zaino right now since I already spent like $25 on the Meguiars stuff... I'm already impressed with the shine, but someone told be, I'm in for a shocker when I do buy zaino later on... But if Zaino/Clay will get rid of those white splotches, I'm buying the stuff tomorrow ;p
After reading some of the posts, I felt like a stake was shoved in my heart, as when I took delivery of my GTP, it was delivered to me via TRAIN.... That's why, I've been lookin' for clay.... The Paint Cleaner I have (Crystal Polish System), makes the paint smooth as silk, but man does it require "elbow grease"....
No elbow grease with Zaino! Try it, you'll LOVE it! BTW, I don't think that's wax in those chips on your hood. I have a Candy Apple Red 300M and I have those white spots too. I think it's the base coat under the paint. Only touch-up paint will cover those up. What a mess that would be- at least on my car!
Good luck.
fastdriver
Don't know if it will remove those white spots, but I would guess it would absorb the wax. You didn't say: Is the paint chipped off of those spots? If so, I guess you'll touch them up afterwards? Are you sure that is wax, and not the color underneath the paint?