Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Waxes And Polishes
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I like No-Touch, but I have to agree... I have yet to have it last more than 2 days... Though its been raining a lot lately... When we did get a week or two of sun, the tires looked shiny for the duration...
Rain-X is garbage... It beads well, but leaves an opaque residue over time...
I wouldn't trust prolong either... On a link someone gave me on engine additives, Prolong is under investigation by the FTC about its oil additives advertisements being misleading... So I wouldn't think too highly of its car care stuff...
re: Rain-X. Just applied it to my Solara after not having used it for quite a number of years. Two days later, I drove about 100 miles through a pretty fierce rainstorm. The rain was too heavy not to use the wipers also, despite the Rain-X, and the stuff caused the wiper blades to clatter over the windshield. I guess the Rain-X caused the wipers to take ALL of the rain off of the windshield, and the wipers had trouble on the "return stroke."
I have started noticing swirl marks on my 300M's skin under direct sunlight (300M is a darker color). I have been trying to stay swirl-free by using Zaino applicators and 100% cotton Made in USA towels. I am wondering whether I simply never noticed these swirls before and they were caused by the dealer prep or maybe I made the swirls?
If I made the swilrs, is it possible that they are just tiny scratches in the layers of Zaino, not in the clearcoat itself?
most everything about it except the seat belt
warning bell. Does anyone know how to disable this
bell without disabling the other warnings such as
headlight and low fuel bell? I like to buckle up
after starting the engine and have to listen to the
gong every time.
I bought some Plexus from a mailorder house (www.autopia-carcare.com). I only used it once so it's hard to tell, but so-far it looks pretty good. It's also safe to use on window tinting (wont scratch the plastic), which is why I really bought it. I'll keep you posted.
I think your in the wrong topic group!!!!! This about waxes and polishes
ruski:
were they quality towels? Sal says that many less expensive towels like those sold at Target and similar stores, while ostensibly 100% cotten, tend to scratch. IIRC, it's due to polyster stitching or something like that.
ruski:
were they quality towels? Sal says that many less expensive towels like those sold at Target and similar stores, while ostensibly 100% cotten, tend to scratch. IIRC, it's due to polyster stitching or something like that.
1. protect
2. last
3. look decent
I maintain my BMW pretty well with show polishes but don't have the time to keep it up and the Explorer. Too much real estate to cover on the Explorer!
Any suggestions for something that will last?
Thanks
Or just take the word of the Consumer Reports wax test and my personal experience and use Nu Finish from the start.
It's easy to get a dozen high quality cloths like this for near $1 each, beats expensive bath towels and they stay soft when you wash them. Most bath towels will get very rough to the touch if you don't use softener on them, if it scratches your skin, what do you think it's doing to your wax?
Don
Thanks
Please see my post #184 under topic #89 regarding how to treat tree sap.
There is another topic concerned mostly with non Zaino products: #89.
All Others,
On the question of tree sap, I have a coat of Zaino (Z1/Z2) on the car, and I see that most people recommend using clay to remove the sap spots. If I clay (using Z Car Wash as a lub.), will it remove my Z2 layer? And do I have to then apply a new Z1 before another layer of Z2?
Yes it will remove your Z-2 layer... for the most part, If you have 5-6 coats on you might go down to the 4th, I would ask Sal for direct details on just how much you should use and how to do it. And no, you wouldn't unless you went all the way through and removed the 5-6 layers of Z-2. If you have less than 3 coats, more likley than not you wil, any more then that and you should be fine, if your just doing spot checking I don't believe there will be a problem with just putting a small section of Z-2 which is much easier, I know I used Z-5 on my hood while I have 4 coats of Z-2 on the rest of the car. The hood seems to show up more of the "spiderwebs" or light scratches, so Z-2 will come after I get the final Z-5 coat on. hope this was of help.
-herr darkness
Also - even though Zaino is called a polish, it is not exactly like other polishes. Zaino makes your car shine without "polishing" it. It also coats the surface with a protective layer that lasts a long time.
Thanks, and you have been helpfull. 'Guess I'm just going to wash, clay, do a layer of Z1 and then Z2 again. I don't think I need the Z5 as this is (still) a new car. And I didn't get any swirl marks when I applied my initial Z1/Z2 layers. Damn tree sap. I wouldn't have noticed it except it made little sparkles on my windshield. And when I then ran my hand over the hood, I could feel all those little bumps. I tried some Z6 and it did take most of the stuff off. But there is enough left to warrent another full Zaino treatment. Such is life!
I have taken to NuFinish-ing my houses air conditioning unit which is under cover but non- theless still partly exposed to the elements. Come to think of it, the AC Unit may need claying it was smooth prior to installation and use of Nu Finish twice a yr for 4 yrs?
Zaino does tend to look shinier and last much longer.(I save this for the vehicles)
#777 - Zymol/polish vs wax
Zymol is a fine wax but its superior shine doesn't last and therefore it must be reapplied monthly. Polishes and glazes are designed to reinvigorate the finish but do not provide protection. For this either a wax or a sealant is needed.
#778 - clay on Zaino
Since Zaino is a polymer which bonds to the paint surface like Finish First and Klasse, claying should remove less from them than from a waxed finish. I have not noticed any damage to any of my polymer finishes when clay is used with lots of detailer. Another alternative is to use Finish First's precleaner which chemically dissolves organic matter(wax, tree sap, etc.) but not the sealant. You could also use 3M's tar/adhesive remover. These products remove wax not sealant but you can check with Sal if you wish first.
#780 - BOTTLE of Zymol
For some reason, most likely greed, Zymol allows Turtle Wax to make the liquid Zymol seen in Wal-Mart. Check the back and you will see it was made in Chicago. True Zymol is not a liquid and comes in a jar.
#782 - no luck with Nu-Finish
It sounds as if your paint is oxidized. If it were cleaned until it shined first I expect the Nu-Finish would have done a lot better.
Great idea, and as guitarzan says, why not planes, trains, and what about PC's?
guitarzan,
how are you and how's that CL doing? I was very disappointed that the CU review of coupes didn't include the CL, but then again their judgement of a 911 would be that its too small for the average family.
drscopem,
Perhaps you have a good point. I'll first try washing with Zaino Car Wash in a more concentrated mix. If that removes the little sap spots, I'll just apply another layer of Z2. If the spots resist a wash & dry, then I'll clay the car and inspect again. If I'm down to clearcoat, then its Z1 and Z2. If the finish looks good, I'll still apply Z2. Now all I need is time.
In the quest for the best, sometimes you pick a lemon. So when life renders lemons; make lemonade. In theory, you should get the polish/wax that works so you dont have to find alternate uses for it like throwing it out or foisting the remainder to an unsuspecting person who hasn't read Edmunds #8 waxes and polishes conference.
#787 - what to use
You should wash your car with a good car wash. Next, clean the car with clay and a detailer (details are in an earlier post). Follow this with either a polish or glaze to make the car shine. An excellent glaze is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. If your auto store doesn't have it, check the yellow pages under automotive paint stores.
Polishes and glazes improve the luster but don't protect it. Follow them with a wax or polymer sealant. Which you use is a matter of personal choice. An excellent liquid wax is Griot's Garage Best of Show (griotsgarage.com). If you prefer a really easy paste try One Grand's Blitz wax (onegrand.com). Either will last 3 to 4 months.
If you prefer polymer sealants you might consider Finish First (finishfirstusa.com, among others) , Klasse (smoothfinish.com), or Zaino (zainobros.com).
Good luck.
Ruking, after your advice on waxing your AC unit, maybe I'll go fish the Nufinish out of the trash and wax my AC. Oh, wait, I don't have an AC unit, just a furnace. Maybe I'll wax the garbage can itself with Nufinish. Oh, wait, the garbage can is plastic. Maybe I'll wax the dog; then his coat will repell water, and i can leave him out in the rain.
I will report back as soon as I have had the chance to give things a try and let you know the results. Thanks for each of your posts and the information you have each shared. You saved me from having to search all over the place and from doing damage to the new car.
Well its off to Target to return the Armorall and Turtle Wax! Maybe I'll use the money to buy some nice 100% cotton, made in the USA, cut off the fringe etc., etc. etc. towels!!
Swede
Won't my neighbors be impressed!? The shine from my siding at midday has already blinded 2 local dog-walkers.
Fan-tastic!
___________________
*note--the above was a joke, just for fun, not for flame.
One step ahead of you. Actually, I think it was your post that gave me the idea to tell them to just leave it as is. I in fact stopped into the dealership today under the guise of "Hey, any news on the car..." But I told them "I have a buddy (you guys) who is a real car care expert and he says not to wash my car....." I think the owner, who is a client, sort of knew what I was up to but who cares!! I want this thing perfect, a true bare canvas for what I hope is a spot free, swirl free, black masterpiece. Although if I drive by Sporin's house I may never see anything again!!
I'm still an old guy, but because I'm not training 16 hrs a week for Ironman, I now have something to do with my spare time, and a new obsession as well!
dave
This morning, I clipped a curb 'cus I'm an idiot, and it took a fingernail-sized scrape into one of the wheels. The coating on the wheel is gone and it's bare aluminum where the scrape is(i'm pretty sure it's aluminum). You guys know if the standard Z treatment will be enough to protect it? Either way, even scratched and bare aluminum shouldn't rust right?
To give your car a reasonably full Zaino treatment, you'll need Z1 (pre-polish, lays a foundation for the polish), Z2 (clearcoat polish; Z3 is the non clearcoat version), Z6 (gloss enhancer and protection enhancer) and Z7 (wash which removes all polish, wax, etc to start with a clean base)
I was able to purchase all of that for $45 or so, and am pleased with the results.
Specifically: The shine is superb and durable (a !$#% bird crapped on my car yesterday, I removed it hours later after the crap sat in the hot sun, and the shine is still there)
If Dawn removes all the wax, perhaps that is something to do before a Z treatment on the new car I should be getting within a month or so.