Well, I got all the Zaino and used it on my new Mercedes E320 and loved the results. Really impressive shine. I thought the paint job was great to begin with, and couldn't be improved, but I was wrong. It's like a mirror, and I can't believe the slickness. Oh yes, and it was really easy to use. GREAT STUFF!!
What I'm looking for now is your recomended "wool wash mit". I've looked around and can't find it anywhere. Anybody know where I can locate one?
Hi: I use a real sheepskin wool mitt from Griot's Garage (griotsgarage.com). The sheepskin mitt is $14.95 plus S&H (item# 10222 - look under the "clean" category). Do not use a synthetic mitt as it is polyester. Since polyester doesn't soften with use it will always scratch. This is also why you should use all cotton towels. Hope this helps.
Just bought a genuine Australian sheepskin mitt with all natural fibers from - drum roll please - Wal-mart. It cost me 6 dollars and I swear it is a decent quality mitt (very soft). I'm going to use it on my 98 Prelude and I'd use it on an E320.
thanks for the info. Unfortunately, there isn't a wal-mart in Key West, so it's off to griotsgarage.com for me. And yes, I've got the 100% made in the USA cotton towels. Again, thanks.
To the person that asked the question about polishing on top of wax, the two traditionally have different purposes. Polish usually means something with a mild abrasive and it gives a great shine by actually removing any oxidation and/or the high points in the paint giving a better reflection of light. Waxes usually contain zero abrasives and if you prepare your paint properly or it's brand new, a true wax won't really enhance your shine much at all. In reality some products that call themselves a polish don't contain any abrasives, like Zaino. Some products are labeled waxes but they contain abrasives. Some polishes could more properly be called a "compound" because they contain VERY aggressive abrasives. You have to read the label and hope they are honest. If your paint doesn't have the shine you want after a good wash, then it should be polished with the mildest abrasive polish you can find. There are several good ones on the market, the 3m product mentioned earlier is a good one. Meguiars also makes some excellent ones. Once you have the shine you want, protect it with a good non-abrasive wax. A good carnauba like Collinite gives the best protection I have found yet, but Meguiars Gold Class is also very good. The better the shine before you wax the longer your wax job will last and look good. In the real world most of us don't have perfect paint and some polish products and most waxes can hide these defects (scratches/swirls) for a short time, but as the protection wears away (and they all do) the high points in the paint show up making it look old before it's time. So, get your paint as shiny as possible before waxing. YOu can take your time and use a mild polish at every detail till you get the shine you want, then just wash and wax as long as the shine suits you!
qwalls, Yes, but I have no desire to get any wars started, so remember, someone asked, and I am just going to give my own results...YMMV!
Some of you may remember: I put Zaino on one half of my 1989 SHO's trunk and Collinite on the other half, same prep for the entire trunk, according to Zaino instructions. It has now been several months, I don't remember the exact date, but it was well before the snow melted in central Illinois. Now after several washings at the car wash and at least three by myself, the trunk looks exactly the same on both sides. Same beads, same basic slickness and same gloss. Also note that the rest of the car got one coat of Collinite about September or October of 1998 and has been subjected to daily driving up until the last month. The rest of the car beads just like the trunk and still shines great. I will put another coat of Collinite on just for fun before a Ford SHOw this weekend June 6, in Bloomington, IL. All Ford owners invited to participate, I am sponsoring the SHO class and will have my 89 on display only. My son and I put a coat of Zaino on his 89 SHO about a month ago. We did all the prep according to Zaino and put on one application on the entire car. My son's car sits out 24 hours a day unlike mine that gets garaged at night. He had used Meguiars Gold Class and Collinite before,... grabbing what fell to hand first. After less than two weeks my son reported the Zaino would no longer bead, and the shine was gone (his paint is in decent shape, but not show quality). Just last weekend we washed the car and sure enough, zero bead. We put on a coat of Gold Class and are now checking to see if it will wash off in two weeks or less like the Zaino did. The Meguiars had lasted much longer in previous waxings. My 1966 Grand Prix has it's hood coated one side with Zaino, the other with Collinite this was done also during the winter the same time as my SHO's trunk. This is the hood that started the infamous "bottle" slickness test. The Collinite still wins that test, I tried it less than a week ago after a couple of Liquid Ivory washes and several light dustings with my Fuller Brush plume duster (best duster I have found, available from any Fuller Brush dealer). The Zaino side still shines well and looks as good as the Collinite side, but there is no advantage on this car or my SHO for either product as far as dust collection or resistance to dirt, bird droppings etc. On this car the Zaino side got a minimum of three applications which made zero difference between coat one and coat three. For those new to this forum, I own a mail order business where I sell products that I have used over the years on several championship cars including Collinite. (obligatory disclaimer) If anyone has specific questions or comments for me, not of public interest, you can reach me at: dmall@mwonline.net I don't check my Hotmail account very often as listed in the Edmunds profile. I check in here every week or two and post when I feel I can contribute.
Can the Zaino products, Z-1, Z-2 & Z-6 be applied while in direct sunlight ? Does it make a difference in the shine and longevity of the shine if the body surfaces are hot or cool ?
After washing my car, I decided to "fix" some touched-up spots on my car. I car used some touchup paint on chips on my hood; there was a small amount of overage on the paint surrounding the chip. I took a TINY amount of polishing compound on my fingertip (just enough enough to moisten it), and gently rubbed it on the spot, using very little pressure. However, a matte finish was created (compared to the mirrorlike Zaino surroundings). After washing the hood again, I touched up the spots with Z1 and let it haze while I Z-5'd the rest of the car; I then covered the entire hood. However, I can still see the differently-textured area where I had rubbed, under the Z5. I haven't removed the Z5 yet (the humidity is about 100%). Any ideas?
I wouldn't apply any wax/polish in direct sunlight or when the body parts are very warm. I try to wait until they have cooled in the shade or in a garage. Someone noted earlier there were problems when the hood was hot and Z-6 was applied. Scroll back through the messages and you should find it.
I clayed my windshield once because I had so many bug splatters and then used RainX afterwards. It was as good as new.
massed, qwalls is correct. And remember to allow Z1/Z2 to dry completely.
Remember my tree sap problem? Well, just a little Z6 does the trick. Some of the more "hard put" sap spots had to be touched by hand (actually, a fingernail touch) and required a second spray of Z6. The process is painstaking but easy. I did clay the windshield which did remove a lot of those damn spots. But the remainder had to be removed via Z6. Z6 is really great stuff. Thanks Sal!
That is a laod of BS, your either doing something wrong or reporting wrong. I haevn't put a coat of wax on (I use the z's) in 2 or 3 months, and I have three coats of Z-5 on the hood and three coast of z-2 on the rest of the car. I just washed it this past weekend and it still beads, PERFECTLY I might add. Also, even the Z-16 (Tiregloss) still beads on the tires and that's been at LEAST a month as well... and they are as clean as ever. I've compared it to the meguires, and although there is not mucha difference with one coat, a few coats can certainly show you who will come out on top. Zaino has my vote, and always will. Thanks for sharing though... it proved most unuseful. -herr darkness
#826 I have used Meguairs for yrs and have in past yr or so been using Zaino. I wish I got the results that Shoman/son/combo got with the Meguairs Gold Class. I have used it on Garaged and 24/7 parked outside.
To make a long story short Zainos is much better by a lot. I used to use Collionite also. While it is slightly better than Meguairs, the benefits seem to be with Zainos.
Two Z-2 coats and have washed weekly and applied Z-6 after. When it rains the entire car looks like it was Rain-X'ed. I don't own a garage and my car is outside at work as well. This is so much better than Meguiar's and Nufinish and Turtle Wax. I'm going to add another layer of Z-2 tomorrow. It has been about 6 weeks since I Z'ed my car.
I misread your post Shoman, sorry. It is getting late. I thougt that it said that your son's car sits outside for 24 hours and then gets garaged overnight. I feel so silly now!
I would be very grateful if anyone can tell me more details about applying clay. I have learned a lot from you experts posting your experiences, many thanks. Nonetheless, I have yet seen any details or skills to avoid unnecessary mistakes.
I heard from a paint store guy telling me that I have to cut into strips (about 2" x 0.5") from the bulk clay before each use. Then somebody says I have to reshape it after each use and another guy tells me that I need to throw it away to avoid scratching next time. I am confused about which one is right. I'd appreciate very much for your advice again!
buddhaseed, Seems like you have gotten good advice, but about several different brands of clay! Erazer clay is a very firm bar that doesn't really ever need to be "reshaped" and it should be thrown away after about 5 or 6 uses according to it's manufacturers literature, of course that depends on how bad the surface of your car was. Other clays like Clay Magic or Meguiars or Mothers are softer and they flatten out and you should just fold them over from time to time. This way they kind of "self-knead" like dough to a somewhat new surface as you use them. I would not cut a clay bar into strips as small as was recommended by the one shop. The Erazer 2 oz bar is about as small as you want for most jobs. It's just about right. The Clay Magic 4 oz bar is about the same width and depth but a little thicker. Some people like to cut their clay bars into two pieces to save one for another time. If you do, you can always put them back together if you don't like it! Assuming you start with a freshly washed car with most of the large chunks removed, the clay will be picking up tiny bits from the paint. These bits then embed in the clay and I have never had a car scratched by "used" clay. (NOTE, this does not apply to clay dropped in sand or dirt! IF this happens, cut off the dirty part or throw it away if there is ANY question about you getting it perfectly clean) Clay may put some very fine haze in the surface, but that is mostly in the layer of wax that is almost always still present on the car, even after washing with dawn. New wax should remove all of that, or in the case of mild marks or hazing that is already in the paint, after clay, you should use a very fine abrasive polish to get to a high gloss before waxing. The most important thing is to use enough of the spray that is recommended with the clay. This layer of liquid lubricant lets the clay ride just off the paint surface picking up only what sticks out of the paint. That is the way Clay is supposed to work. If you run out of the spray before the clay bar is used up (a likely scenario), you can usually buy more spray from the shop or you can use soapy water or Meguiar's Quick Detailer is also excellent for this.
Darkness, I reported only EXACTLY what happened in as fair a way as I possibly can. I don't dispute your results, and you can take it to the bank that none of MY results are BS. Please, don't get into another name calling contest like happened last time. If you love the "Z" that's fine by me. If I or someone else happens to like another product, don't kill the messenger, chalk it up to different experiences, different cars...whatever. Live and let live man.
Ruski, I think you answered your own question. I was talking about two different cars, but "day" is one of those two-way words, it can mean the "daylight hours" It can also mean a 24 hour period with no specific relationship to how long the sun shines. If I wasn't clear, my appologies! While there are times I do wonder what planet my son lives on, I am sure there are times my son thinks the same about me. Luckily we get along fine most of the time, and he shares my passion for fun cars and taking care of them.
#833: Oh my God, this is the best I could've ever learned from the internet! Your thorough description about various brands of clays has swept off all my wondering. My final question: for a clay that is capable of 5 or 6 times of use, how do you keep it between those uses? Do you store it in the refrigerator, moisten it every week, or simply put it in the garage?
Again, you guys are always so helpful: all of you experts and Edmund's staff have done a great job for car lovers!
Clay comes wrapped in a small plastic bag. I figure I should store it in something similar (the original bag ripped when I opened it). I have found that a small Zip Lock bag works very well for clay storage. I don't refrigerate mine - just keep it in the garage.
That's a smart idea, ziplock bag. This reminds me of the film box, which stores film before it is sold. That should do a good job in keeping the humidity, too.
buddhaseed, Erazer comes in a plastic wrap in a neat screw-top can. Throw away the plastic and store it in the can after each use. That is why I stopped ordering Clay Magic for my business and went to Erazer. You can keep the clay in there as long as you want. Also, I forgot to mention that Clay Magic and most of the others should be replaced after about 1/2 a dozen uses, again depending on how dirty the car is when you use the clay. The clay should be very sticky, if it gets to the point where it isn't, or it looks bad, then get some more. I also spray my clay like Stillwater does, but it doesn't help much in keeping it from sticking too things, still it's a good idea. For clays that don't provide a storage container, the ziplock bag is a great idea. Don M.
Thanks so much, shoman. Now I have got all the information I want about claying, and so I can make informed decision on it. I'd like to suggest the Town Hall hosts to collect all people's knowledge and experiences such as yours to make a precious FAQ for car lovers. I wonder if they have a plan to do this. Otherwise, I can imagine if there is a guy like me looking for the same information, he has to first browse through all posts of related topics and then make a proper question. As Edmund's goes larger, such plan to highlight past postings should be necessary.
The waxing of the A/C unit reminded me that I polished (3M Emperial Hand Glaze) and waxed (Mother's California Gold Carnuba) the hood above my oven because I was wiping lots of dirt off of it at least one a week.
Since then, it has been perfectly clean for 5 weeks.
#841 So there is a little practical in the humor eh?
Actually I was looking at my A/C unit yesterday and feeling the urge to NU Finish it, again. GEEZZZZZz does it ever end? Thanks for the tip, I might Nu Finish my air hood too.
Z'd my car for the first time this past weekend and had strange results. Dawn, clayed (Erazer), Dawn, Z1, Z5. The sun was brutal on my black car while I was claying and I needed constant lubricant. btw, the lube that comes w/ Erazer dries extremely quickly; i had better results w/ dawn & water.
When I got to the Z5, the sun was less intense. I live in Atlanta and it was humid as hell. Anyway, the Z5 wouldn't dry. I waited 4 hours, and it still smeared when i used my finger. Came back out around midnight and it still smeared. I figured that it was as dry as it would get, so I tried to wipe it off. All that did was spread the Z5 around more.
I waited until after work the next day, and it still smeared. I don't know what I did wrong, but it won't dry. I talked to Sal and he said it takes much longer in humid conditions, but 4 days is a little much. He also mentioned that drying takes longer when you have the Z1 coat underneath, but again, 4 days?
I plan on washing with Z7 and then doing another coat of Z5 this weekend. I'll make sure I do it around noon and let it bake in the sun. Anyone else have this kind of experience?
I had the same problem about a month ago the first time I Z'd with Z1 + Z2 - had let it "dry" overnight, upwards of 18 hours, low humidity, 65-70ish temperatures. I'm sure that the problem was that I had applied BOTH coats too thickly, even though I thought I was trying to go very thin. Returning here and also to the "showcars and detailing" section of LS1.com made me realize that I really didn't do it as thinly as I should have.
Anyway, I wiped the car down with a damp (100% made in USA as prescribed) white cotton towel, and the streaking vanished, Z6'd and the car looked terrific. I've gotten the idea that I probably removed more of the Z1/Z2 than I should have that way, but I'll tell you what -- I have since applied two more coats of Z2, and the results are absolutely stunning.
I learned to put less Z on the applicator (dampened with Z6) and make sure it was spread evenly to the edges of the pad. I also learned that I should NOT be seeing whitish applicator-width stripes as I apply the Z, that means it is too thick. Instead you should just barely be able to see it, and you really shouldn't be able to distinguish the strokes of the applicator at all.
So if you are still fighting the smears, try the damp towel routine, then Z6, I think you will be pleased.
Hope this helps. If not, give Sal a call or an e-mail. He is VERY glad to help you out.
When you apply thin, you can't see the whitish color of the stuff but looking from and angle you should see the slight difference in color tone of treated vs. untreated paint - that's how you can tell where you already wiped it on.
Still my first stroke is always too thick. I usually come back to it in a minute and "refill" my applicator and re-use the stuff on a different area.
After reading this area for over a year, I fiinally took the plunge. I just finished claying and then using Zaino on my red New Beetle. I have to admit, you guys are right. It looks great! It was much a much easier process then what I expected and the results are wonderful! I really appreciate all of the helpful hints that I have picked up from this conference. However, I do miss Chris and his advice. I know he said that he was going to another site - does anyone know where it is? Again, thanks for all of the information. There is now a very bright red New Beetle cruisinf the streets of Springfield, Missouri driven by a guy with a wall-to-wall smile!
#847 Good for you! One of these such posts could possibly be worth all the bru ha ha, as shoveled toward the way of the so-called ZAINOISTS. It goes on far easier than can be described. In fact, it goes on far easier than most one step processes, and comes off far easier, takes less time, and you have to do it far less often. But as they say to each his own, results will vary, yada! yada!
I washed mine in the machine on the delicate cycle. When I pulled it out of the machine, the stitching along one side had come undone. I recommend that you hand wash it.
Let's see if there is a connection here. I used Zaino for the first time this week on my New Beetle. Decided to stop at a V.W. car show today and took first place in my class. Coincidence? I think not!
I just picked up my new Saab 9-3SE on Saturday. Spent all day Sunday fussing over it. I washed with Dawn, Erazer clayed everything, dried with all cotton towels, Z1'd, Z2'd, Z6'd and so forth. Then it rained!!!
I wanted to put my second coat of Z2/Z6 on but now it will need washed. If I wash wih Z7 and then apply Z2/Z6 will it get results similar to what I would have if I could have gotten the second coat on without a wash in between?
You might even get better results with a wash in between. That's because there is some time in between during which some dust might collect on your car.
Also Sal Zaino recommends wiping with Z-6 before putting the next coat of Z-2. Doing this however will make you run out of Z-6 faster.
It's probably good that it rained anyway because SAL recommends that you wait 24 hours in between coats.
How does the car look? What color is it? Once you get the hang of ZAINO you'll be very happy. I have not Z-2'd my car for quite some time now and that wet-look shine is still there!
Comments
What I'm looking for now is your recomended "wool wash mit". I've looked around and can't find it anywhere. Anybody know where I can locate one?
I use a real sheepskin wool mitt from Griot's Garage (griotsgarage.com). The sheepskin mitt is $14.95 plus S&H (item# 10222 - look under the "clean" category).
Do not use a synthetic mitt as it is polyester. Since polyester doesn't soften with use it will always scratch. This is also why you should use all cotton towels.
Hope this helps.
In reality some products that call themselves a polish don't contain any abrasives, like Zaino. Some products are labeled waxes but they contain abrasives. Some polishes could more properly be called a "compound" because they contain VERY aggressive abrasives. You have to read the label and hope they are honest.
If your paint doesn't have the shine you want after a good wash, then it should be polished with the mildest abrasive polish you can find. There are several good ones on the market, the 3m product mentioned earlier is a good one. Meguiars also makes some excellent ones. Once you have the shine you want, protect it with a good non-abrasive wax. A good carnauba like Collinite gives the best protection I have found yet, but Meguiars Gold Class is also very good.
The better the shine before you wax the longer your wax job will last and look good. In the real world most of us don't have perfect paint and some polish products and most waxes can hide these defects (scratches/swirls) for a short time, but as the protection wears away (and they all do) the high points in the paint show up making it look old before it's time. So, get your paint as shiny as possible before waxing. YOu can take your time and use a mild polish at every detail till you get the shine you want, then just wash and wax as long as the shine suits you!
Don M.
Are there any updartes from your Collinite/Zaino comparison from a while back?
Quentin
Yes, but I have no desire to get any wars started, so remember, someone asked, and I am just going to give my own results...YMMV!
Some of you may remember: I put Zaino on one half of my 1989 SHO's trunk and Collinite on the other half, same prep for the entire trunk, according to Zaino instructions.
It has now been several months, I don't remember the exact date, but it was well before the snow melted in central Illinois. Now after several washings at the car wash and at least three by myself, the trunk looks exactly the same on both sides. Same beads, same basic slickness and same gloss. Also note that the rest of the car got one coat of Collinite about September or October of 1998 and has been subjected to daily driving up until the last month. The rest of the car beads just like the trunk and still shines great. I will put another coat of Collinite on just for fun before a Ford SHOw this weekend June 6, in Bloomington, IL.
All Ford owners invited to participate, I am sponsoring the SHO class and will have my 89 on display only.
My son and I put a coat of Zaino on his 89 SHO about a month ago. We did all the prep according to Zaino and put on one application on the entire car.
My son's car sits out 24 hours a day unlike mine that gets garaged at night. He had used Meguiars Gold Class and Collinite before,... grabbing what fell to hand first. After less than two weeks my son reported the Zaino would no longer bead, and the shine was gone (his paint is in decent shape, but not show quality). Just last weekend we washed the car and sure enough, zero bead. We put on a coat of Gold Class and are now checking to see if it will wash off in two weeks or less like the Zaino did. The Meguiars had lasted much longer in previous waxings.
My 1966 Grand Prix has it's hood coated one side with Zaino, the other with Collinite this was done also during the winter the same time as my SHO's trunk. This is the hood that started the infamous "bottle" slickness test. The Collinite still wins that test, I tried it less than a week ago after a couple of Liquid Ivory washes and several light dustings with my Fuller Brush plume duster (best duster I have found, available from any Fuller Brush dealer). The Zaino side still shines well and looks as good as the Collinite side, but there is no advantage on this car or my SHO for either product as far as dust collection or resistance to dirt, bird droppings etc. On this car the Zaino side got a minimum of three applications which made zero difference between coat one and coat three.
For those new to this forum, I own a mail order business where I sell products that I have used over the years on several championship cars including Collinite. (obligatory disclaimer)
If anyone has specific questions or comments for me, not of public interest, you can reach me at: dmall@mwonline.net I don't check my Hotmail account very often as listed in the Edmunds profile.
I check in here every week or two and post when I feel I can contribute.
Don M.
However, a matte finish was created (compared to the mirrorlike Zaino surroundings). After washing the hood again, I touched up the spots with Z1 and let it haze while I Z-5'd the rest of the car; I then covered the entire hood. However, I can still see the differently-textured area where I had rubbed, under the Z5. I haven't removed the Z5 yet (the humidity is about 100%). Any ideas?
I wouldn't apply any wax/polish in direct sunlight or when the body parts are very warm. I try to wait until they have cooled in the shade or in a garage. Someone noted earlier there were problems when the hood was hot and Z-6 was applied. Scroll back through the messages and you should find it.
I clayed my windshield once because I had so many bug splatters and then used RainX afterwards. It was as good as new.
Terry
qwalls is correct. And remember to allow Z1/Z2 to dry completely.
Remember my tree sap problem? Well, just a little Z6 does the trick. Some of the more "hard put" sap spots had to be touched by hand (actually, a fingernail touch) and required a second spray of Z6. The process is painstaking but easy. I did clay the windshield which did remove a lot of those damn spots. But the remainder had to be removed via Z6. Z6 is really great stuff. Thanks Sal!
That is a laod of BS, your either doing something wrong or reporting wrong. I haevn't put a coat of wax on (I use the z's) in 2 or 3 months, and I have three coats of Z-5 on the hood and three coast of z-2 on the rest of the car. I just washed it this past weekend and it still beads, PERFECTLY I might add. Also, even the Z-16 (Tiregloss) still beads on the tires and that's been at LEAST a month as well... and they are as clean as ever. I've compared it to the meguires, and although there is not mucha difference with one coat, a few coats can certainly show you who will come out on top. Zaino has my vote, and always will. Thanks for sharing though... it proved most unuseful.
-herr darkness
I have used Meguairs for yrs and have in past yr or so been using Zaino. I wish I got the results that Shoman/son/combo got with the Meguairs Gold Class. I have used it on Garaged and 24/7 parked outside.
To make a long story short Zainos is much better by a lot. I used to use Collionite also. While it is slightly better than Meguairs, the benefits seem to be with Zainos.
My son's car sits out 24 hours a day unlike minethat gets garaged at night
I heard from a paint store guy telling me that I have to cut into strips (about 2" x 0.5") from the bulk clay before each use. Then somebody says I have to reshape it after each use and another guy tells me that I need to throw it away to avoid scratching next time. I am confused about which one is right. I'd appreciate very much for your advice again!
Seems like you have gotten good advice, but about several different brands of clay! Erazer clay is a very firm bar that doesn't really ever need to be "reshaped" and it should be thrown away after about 5 or 6 uses according to it's manufacturers literature, of course that depends on how bad the surface of your car was. Other clays like Clay Magic or Meguiars or Mothers are softer and they flatten out and you should just fold them over from time to time. This way they kind of "self-knead" like dough to a somewhat new surface as you use them. I would not cut a clay bar into strips as small as was recommended by the one shop. The Erazer 2 oz bar is about as small as you want for most jobs. It's just about right. The Clay Magic 4 oz bar is about the same width and depth but a little thicker. Some people like to cut their clay bars into two pieces to save one for another time. If you do, you can always put them back together if you don't like it!
Assuming you start with a freshly washed car with most of the large chunks removed, the clay will be picking up tiny bits from the paint. These bits then embed in the clay and I have never had a car scratched by "used" clay. (NOTE, this does not apply to clay dropped in sand or dirt! IF this happens, cut off the dirty part or throw it away if there is ANY question about you getting it perfectly clean)
Clay may put some very fine haze in the surface, but that is mostly in the layer of wax that is almost always still present on the car, even after washing with dawn. New wax should remove all of that, or in the case of mild marks or hazing that is already in the paint, after clay, you should use a very fine abrasive polish to get to a high gloss before waxing. The most important thing is to use enough of the spray that is recommended with the clay. This layer of liquid lubricant lets the clay ride just off the paint surface picking up only what sticks out of the paint. That is the way Clay is supposed to work. If you run out of the spray before the clay bar is used up (a likely scenario), you can usually buy more spray from the shop or you can use soapy water or Meguiar's Quick Detailer is also excellent for this.
Darkness,
I reported only EXACTLY what happened in as fair a way as I possibly can. I don't dispute your results, and you can take it to the bank that none of MY results are BS. Please, don't get into another name calling contest like happened last time. If you love the "Z" that's fine by me. If I or someone else happens to like another product, don't kill the messenger, chalk it up to different experiences, different cars...whatever. Live and let live man.
Ruski,
I think you answered your own question. I was talking about two different cars, but "day" is one of those two-way words, it can mean the "daylight hours" It can also mean a 24 hour period with no specific relationship to how long the sun shines. If I wasn't clear, my appologies!
While there are times I do wonder what planet my son lives on, I am sure there are times my son thinks the same about me. Luckily we get along fine most of the time, and he shares my passion for fun cars and taking care of them.
Don M.
Again, you guys are always so helpful: all of you experts and Edmund's staff have done a great job for car lovers!
Erazer comes in a plastic wrap in a neat screw-top can. Throw away the plastic and store it in the can after each use. That is why I stopped ordering Clay Magic for my business and went to Erazer. You can keep the clay in there as long as you want.
Also, I forgot to mention that Clay Magic and most of the others should be replaced after about 1/2 a dozen uses, again depending on how dirty the car is when you use the clay. The clay should be very sticky, if it gets to the point where it isn't, or it looks bad, then get some more.
I also spray my clay like Stillwater does, but it doesn't help much in keeping it from sticking too things, still it's a good idea.
For clays that don't provide a storage container, the ziplock bag is a great idea.
Don M.
We're talking fractional differences here, but I believe Zaino wins, at least in beading/protection. The shine is still the same.
I'm still undecided as to whether the slight difference in Zaino is worth the extra steps. Probably not.
Since then, it has been perfectly clean for 5 weeks.
So there is a little practical in the humor eh?
Actually I was looking at my A/C unit yesterday and feeling the urge to NU Finish it, again. GEEZZZZZz does it ever end? Thanks for the tip, I might Nu Finish my air hood too.
When I got to the Z5, the sun was less intense. I live in Atlanta and it was humid as hell. Anyway, the Z5 wouldn't dry. I waited 4 hours, and it still smeared when i used my finger. Came back out around midnight and it still smeared. I figured that it was as dry as it would get, so I tried to wipe it off. All that did was spread the Z5 around more.
I waited until after work the next day, and it still smeared. I don't know what I did wrong, but it won't dry. I talked to Sal and he said it takes much longer in humid conditions, but 4 days is a little much. He also mentioned that drying takes longer when you have the Z1 coat underneath, but again, 4 days?
I plan on washing with Z7 and then doing another coat of Z5 this weekend. I'll make sure I do it around noon and let it bake in the sun. Anyone else have this kind of experience?
Anyway, I wiped the car down with a damp (100% made in USA as prescribed) white cotton towel, and the streaking vanished, Z6'd and the car looked terrific. I've gotten the idea that I probably removed more of the Z1/Z2 than I should have that way, but I'll tell you what -- I have since applied two more coats of Z2, and the results are absolutely stunning.
I learned to put less Z on the applicator (dampened with Z6) and make sure it was spread evenly to the edges of the pad. I also learned that I should NOT be seeing whitish applicator-width stripes as I apply the Z, that means it is too thick. Instead you should just barely be able to see it, and you really shouldn't be able to distinguish the strokes of the applicator at all.
So if you are still fighting the smears, try the damp towel routine, then Z6, I think you will be pleased.
Hope this helps. If not, give Sal a call or an e-mail. He is VERY glad to help you out.
Pat
Still my first stroke is always too thick. I usually come back to it in a minute and "refill" my applicator and re-use the stuff on a different area.
Great idea. My wife's oven hood is always getting smeared with cooking oils, etc.
Good for you! One of these such posts could possibly be worth all the bru ha ha, as shoveled toward the way of the so-called ZAINOISTS. It goes on far easier than can be described. In fact, it goes on far easier than most one step processes, and comes off far easier, takes less time, and you have to do it far less often. But as they say to each his own, results will vary, yada! yada!
I washed mine in the machine on the delicate cycle. When I pulled it out of the machine, the stitching along one side had come undone. I recommend that you hand wash it.
I wanted to put my second coat of Z2/Z6 on but now it will need washed. If I wash wih Z7 and then apply Z2/Z6 will it get results similar to what I would have if I could have gotten the second coat on without a wash in between?
Thanks for the input.
Yes, absolutely.
Also Sal Zaino recommends wiping with Z-6 before putting the next coat of Z-2. Doing this however will make you run out of Z-6 faster.
I can already see myself needing another bottle of Z6. Every time I walk out to the garage and see a spot on the car I want to run and get the stuff!
Thanks for the advice.
It's probably good that it rained anyway because SAL recommends that you wait 24 hours in between coats.
How does the car look? What color is it? Once you get the hang of ZAINO you'll be very happy. I have not Z-2'd my car for quite some time now and that wet-look shine is still there!
Good luck with your new car.
fastdriver