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The symptoms your van is having sound like clasic symptoms for a low fluid level, and that would be my first check.
When you check the fluid level, a few things to remember:
Make sure the engine is fully warmed up,
Make sure you are on a level surface,
Check the level while the engine is running.
If your level is low, which I highly suspect, a few things to consider,
The probable cause is that when you had your tanny serviced, they didn't get a good seal on the tranny pan gasket, and you now have a small leak. If this is the case you are essentially going to have to have the tranny service done again, to place a new tranny pan gasket in place.
In the meantime, yes you can do some damage if you drive with an extremely low fluid level, so keep the level filled, but do not overfill, that can also cause damage.
The marks on the dipstick from low to full usually only represent 1 pint, not a quart, so it is easy to overfill if you are not careful.
My guess is from your symptoms that your tranny is well over a quart low.
Make sure you use the correct tranny fluid to refill, it should be Dexron III, but check your owners manual.
If your level is topped off already and you are having these symptoms, then there are a number of possible causes, most of them pretty bad.
Electronic controls are one possible cause that would be easily repaired, ie sensor replacement.
However, more probably, it would be an internal tranny problem, and you are looking at an overhaul or replacement.
Good luck, and hope for a low fluid level.
The oil level actually is just above the upper limit of hot-sided notch, so oil is not low. The oil was checked after drving it for 32 miles. It could be even an overfill case. Since the dealer did the flushing job, I imagine they used correct fluid, but do not think they changed the filter.
Thanks again.
Thanks.
This is the first time I have done this rather messy job on a GM trans. Actually a piece of cake and the filter/gasket set was only $8.43 including tax. What a deal. But I'll throw $25 away on Mobil 1 ATF to make up for it. I believe the next time I do it its a 1 hour job including careful cleaning.
When life gets boring I can be mentally and physically challanged by working on the Corsica. Water pump is next.
Al
I got to do another drain and fill for my Camry. Done it twice so far with 18KMiles.
One more time, it should be closer to majority Mobile1Syn.
You might consider the idea of a low mileage used transmission from a wreck.
Bob
What are the pros/cons or is it a marketing thing playing off the popularity of synthetic oil?
Does anyone have experience with this product?
I use a blend in my motor oil. It is better on engine seals and still provides a large share of the anti-wear protection.
When you get your transmission fluid changed I thought it was standard practice to have the torque convertor drained as well. Isn't that the usual service?
Now, how easy it is to do drains/flushes on a transmissions depends on the particular transmission and car. Not all transmissions have drain plugs. Pans can be on the top, bottom or side of the transmission. Some transmissions have replaceable filters, and some only have wire mesh screens. Some cooler lines are slip-on with hose clamps, others have threaded fittings. Some fittings are easy to get to, and some are a PITA. Some transmissions don't even have dip sticks!
Before you get the transmission serviced, you should find out the particulars of your car.
Most PM takes a 30 minutes - 1 hour per system. Most repairs allow a 30% profit on parts plus 4-24 hours of labor......so doing 8-24 years of PM would be required to net the same money as a system replacement!
At best a $120 flush makes $30 gross profit [the machine cost $4800 and needs quaterly maintenance] plus it takes 1 hour of a $50k per year tech, a 4 speed AT replacement is $2,000 to $3600 [Lexus] yielding over $500-$750 in gross margin.
The Question is how long do you have to wait to get the $500 vs $30 today.
Now a shop that doesn't get much transmission replacement business should promote flushes.
If transmission life doubled half these people would be unemployed. Most shops are small business <7 employees. Do you want this responsibility of hurting the economy?
http://www.atra-gears.com/gears/janfeb02/survey.html
By the way my shop loves to see me, since between 3 cars that I take in regularly, they see me at least twice a year. Not once have they complained about the annual service.
Most owners wait and start too late after the damage has been done but many new owners dump a car after the warranty expires. It's the second, third, fourth owners who get to spend big.
Unless you happen to buy certain Ford or Chrysler products which have had serious reliability problems of late.....then new owners get the thrill!
And I defy anyone to find anybody substantially more pessimistic than I.
I used the Lubeguard as additional preventive medicine. It appears to go into the torque lockup a little sooner now. Might be my imagination.
I might add (Alcan will appreciate this) the auto trans on this car is the only thing that has given me no trouble. I nominate this vehicle the most troublesome vehicle ever built!!
Al
transmission when shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st. This noise
does not happen all of the time seems to be when the car is revving
low. This has been like this since I purchased the car. I have brought
it to the dealer and they say they cannot find anything wrong. One
dealer said it was a known issue with 2001 5 speed Sunfires. If anyone
can give me any information it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Paul
First felt it this fall, and only when the outside temperature was freezing in the morning, 20-25F or less. Now it does not pull well even at mid 40-ths.
My driveway descends about 6-8 feet to the road for 100 feet length. The road itself slopes up with about the same incline for 300 feet or so, and is flat after this.
Without warming the car, it does not accelerate properly. It takes to the top of the hill to reach 10-15 mph, and extra 300-500 feet to reach 35 mph. I am pressing the accelerator as usual or harder, with the engine rpm reaching about 2500, and even more than 3000 rpm when it is freezing.
When the engine / tranny is warm, the car accelerates twice as fast on the same stretch of the road, on lesser rpm. I checked it.
However, it takes about 5 minutes to warm it up, depending on the outside temperature. Does not pull well even after warming it for 2-3 minutes,
Recently I had to back up on my driveway, just seconds after starting engine. The car did not move at all in right direction. Even on 3000 rpm, it rolled down the driveway, instead of backing up.
I had impression that I put it accidently on neutral instead of reverse. Re checked - it was on "R". Shifted couple of times from "R" to "D" and back, to "P" and back - it did not help.
It even was not cold outside, just 46 degrees. After warming, the car behave right. As soon as the temperature gauge shows 100F, or even a bit earlier, the transmission works fine.
I brought the car to my local Firestone. They checked computer codes and did not find anything wrong. However, the shop does not do serious work on transmissions.
The mechanic told me the car is OK, as long as warm, and suggested to simply warming it up for 5 minutes before driving. Or to bring it to a specialist, if it bothering me. Sure it is bothering!
I had serviced the car last spring at the Firestone. The manual recommends to service the transmission at 50k miles for severe conditions, including hilly terrains. I did it at 40k miles.
Put in the Mobil 1 ATF. Bought it at Pep Boys and brought to Firestone. Also, a new $80+ filter was installed. The manager told me to bring 15 quarts for good flushing, but only 9 quarts were used in reality. A whole box was left.
A small fluid leak was developed after the service, stopped by tightening the pan screws. The mechanic told the leak was so small, there is no need to add ATF.
Mechanic told me that they checked the liquid level. I have some doubts: Would they really drove the car for 30 miles before checking, as needed in the theory, it would not be for free, right? Could not recheck it myself, though, because the Malibu transmission is not user-serviceable. Cannot find a dipstick, and probably it does not exist.
What do you think, are the symptoms looking as low liquid, or something more serious?
BTW, I have extended warranty on the car. I bought it used, with unknown history, and decided to insure myself. Aftermarket warranty by WG. It is very difficult to reach the service by phone, but they already paid for two repairs without objecting.
fully warm up the transaxle (this requires approximately 15 miles of highway driving), engine running, shift through all ranges then transaxle in Park, remove the check plug and add fluid in 1/2 litre increments through the filler hole until fluid begins to run out the check plug hole. The level is correct when it's is at the check plug hole. Reinstall the check plug. Do NOT remove the plug with the transaxle cold or with the engine shut off, or shut the engine off with the plug removed.
Because there might be a wear issue and subsequent failure due to clutch slippage when cold caused by a low fluid level, I would recommend you have the check done by the same shop which serviced the transaxle and have them document how much additional fluid was required to fill it.