I have a 99 LS Malibu and I have a situation with my transmission.
Every once in a while as I am shifting from "P" into "D" or from "R" into "D" and I start moving, I notice the transmission slips. It happens mostly if I start to move too quickly after shifting. A mechanic friend says the transmission filter needs changed. The car has about 64k. If I shut the car off for a few seconds that seems to help. Any ideas?
I own a 97 vw Cabrio Highline (automatic 64000 miles) that has a serious problem shifting gears. When it has been running for a while it will stick in gears. My rpms will go past 5000 and the cars speed will not accelerate past 15-25 mph. It does this mostly while taking sharp turns at stop signs, and also going up very small hills. I have to let my foot off the gas for about 5 seconds then reapply my foot to the gas, only then will it make a slight bucking motion and then switch into the next gear. It also has problems on the highway switching into last gear, warm or cold. One time my rpms were at 5500 before it finally decided it was time to switch. Again letting my food off the gas will make it to switch into last gear after bucking back and forth slightly. Anyone with a similar problem?
Last night after stoping at a light the o/d light on the instrument panel started to flash and trans would not shift into overdrive. Has anyone else had this problem and if so is it a major repair. My explorer has about 65k way to soon for a major transmission repair I hope.
Explorer: I think the o/d is electronically controlled so this may be an external problem related to the sensor or solenoid or whatever works this function.
If this, or any other additive, makes the regular tranny fluid so much better, please explain the logic of why the company wouldn't just sell their patented product to the tranny fluid companies so that we are putting the best fluid possible in our vehicles from the start? I would think they would make even more money because of greater volume of sales.
I bought some from NAPA today to see if it might work wonders on my ailing Dodge pick-up tranny. The guy there says our local police department (town of 200,000) buys the stuff by the case full. That's a pretty good endorsemement, maybe.
At least in the transmission I believe that this is not snake oil. I credit it with saving two of my transmissions.
On my Subaru, the manual said that you didn't need to ever change the gear oil. Well at 90K it was very hard to shift, especially to 2nd and 4th. If I was in 4th gear and went over 55 MPH it would shudder. I drained out the gear oil and replaced it with fresh synthetic, and Lubegard. Immediately shifting was easier and smoother. Lubegard's claim of preventing gear shift shock still holds true, even 2 years later. I have also gotten up to 80 MPH in 4th with no shudder.
My Dodge was in a fender bender, and the transmission started to shake. Replaced the standard ATF and added Lubegard. Shifted very smoothly, but really improved when I added it the second time 2 years later. Now it shifts better than it did since I bought it.
My son has a Mazda with the infamous and weak automatic transmission. At 60K the transmission would stick when shifting from 1st to 2nd. The mechanic drained out all of the fluid, including the stuff in the converter, and replaced it with regular ATF and Lubegard. It has shifted perfectly ever since.
My local Transmission shop carries it as a standard product and loves it.
I'm a believer with the transmission additives.
I recently put the engine treatment in a vehicle and will see how it behaves on a trip to California in May.
I own a 2002 Kia Sedona with manual tranny. Sometimes, when I shift to first gear while the vehicle is in full stop, the vehicle jerks and makes a thudding sound. Is there something wrong with my transmission?
Neighbor's 95 chevy blazer's auto tranny died. Wife's vehicle-she is not a hot rodder-less than 100K. In an attempt to save a few bucks-pulled it himself and exchanged for a rebuilt made by a local company in N. Chi. The rebuilt lasted for 30 miles-when he took tranny pan off-parts fell out. Out with #1 replacement. #2 replacement had problems at about 25 miles-to dealer-diagnosis-wrong tranny, pinched/arching harness wires. Pulled out #2 tranny a couple of nights ago and will help put in #3 over the weekend. When we poured fluid out of #2 torque converter-full of bright shiney metal particles-at less than 40 miles. wow
He had to fight these guys tooth and nail to get the exchanges-they said it was his ECM and all kinds of other excuses. Now they will pay for the diagnosis at the Chevy dealer and one install. Moral to the story-check out anybody you get a rebuilt tranny from. Dealing with crooks is bad enough but add incompetency to the mix and wow loook out.
Looks like small claims court if #3 does not make the grade. Will keep you posted.
Thanks, Alcan! I am out of the country as of this writing. I have noted your technical advice. When I return home, I will immediately observe the engine speed whether it drops when changing gears. In case your diagnosis is correct, can you give me an idea how to adjust the clutch. I was informed that the Kia Carnival has a hydraulic clutch.
I talked to a transmission tech at my local ford dealer he said to disconnect the battery for a few minutes reconnect and try it. This will remove a false error code in the computer. Have driven the explorer 4 days 300 miles with no problems .
Love my Regal, however there is this one annoying problem! Occasionally when the engine is under load, like going up a hill, or accelerating to get on the interstate she shimmies and shakes.
A friend who was in the car when it did this said it seemed to him, like the tranny was popping in and out, seeking gears. If I back off the gas, it stops. If I drop to second it stops. Just had a new fuel filter put in, 'cause to me, it felt like either gas starvation or too much gas.
Not that I'm planning on doing this anytime soon, but would it be very hard to swap in a 3-speed automatic in place of a 4-speed on, say, an '85 LeSabre? I realize most people would rather swap the other way (well, okay, most people would just junk the car!)
The reason I'm thinking of this is that a rebuilt 3-speed Hydramatic is a LOT cheaper than a rebuilt 4-speed, so I figured that if the tranny in Grandma's '85 ever did go out, maybe we'd just try having a 3-speed thrown in instead. Sure it'd hurt highway economy a bit, but this car doesn't go on very many long trips anymore.
Are you saying that's all I need? That would be great, so I think I'll try it. I don't want to over fill, so in case I have to take out some fluid to make room for the lubegard, what's the best way of doing that?
We always drained out the old, and on my son's with the serious shifting from 1 -- 2 we also flushed out the torque converter. Then added the Lubegard when we added the fluid. Cost about 75 bucks for the tranny work plus the cost of Lubegard.
On my manual it was a simple drain and refill.
If possible I definitely recommend synthetic as well. It keeps the transmission cleaner, and I go 30,000 between changes. 15K on the conventional stuff.
I never considered the ignition coil, so maybe I'll let the dealer(gasp!) take a look at it, and have them change the transmission fluid at the same time.
I'll post the solution for future reference. Thanks for the thoughtful responses.
Depending on the mileage on the vehicle, look for the following in this order, since many perceived converter clutch problems are actually secondary ignition concerns (btw, this is right out of a GM service manual): spark plugs plug wires ignition coils If ignition checks out ok, then look for a worn converter clutch apply valve bore in the valve body.
Guys I have an 87 Cutlass Calais out front I've been working on. It's been having a problem with auto. trans. for few years from what I understand. Vehicle will shift into all gears fine when cold. After it's warmed up, the forward gears will not engage as they should. I've had some success giving it a little gas while in gear for a few seconds, (up to about 2000 RPM), and then most times forward gears will engage. Stop and take it out of drive, and attempt to engage drive once again (without RPM increase) and nothing happens. Reverse has never had a problem cold or hot. I myself am an engine rebuilder and not much of a trans. guru. I have a few ideas but looking for some input from more knowledgable folks. Any ideas appreciated.
Occasionally our 94 Chrysler concord with the 4 speed auto trans, 3.5L motor, and 87,000 miles sticks in 2nd gear. Some times from startup it will stick in 2nd, and occasionally while driving it will down shift to second and stay there. If we pull over and turn off the ignition and restart the problem will go a way. I checked for error codes and the only code I got was 55 which I believe is end of codes. Any ideas?
I have a high mileage (200,000 K) 1995 Legacy 5 Speed Wagon and had the clutch replaced a couple of months ago. It has been running fine until recently. Now, when engaging into 1st gear, the car shakes. I have to apply more gas. The problem eases a bit after the car has been running for awhile. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?
I have an 86 Corvette pace car with auto trans. It has 44K on it,and I changed the trans fluid and filter at 31K. When I took it out this spring it ran well for about 30 mi or so. It cooled down and 5 hrs later when I drove it again it wouldn't shift into 4th gear. I couldn't get the torque converter to lock up. When I let off the gas it seemed to, but as soon as I put power to it, the RPM's are right back up in 3rd range. Can anyone give me any ideas on something I can check out myself, before I have to take it in, probably for big bucks, no matter what is wrong! (Also, I checked the computer codes but nothing appeared, just code 12)
Anyone have experience with the cause of not shifting? Started by not wanting to shift into overdrive smoothly, actually went into neutral first. Is this a solenoid or a blown transmission? 44,000 miles.
This product IS approved by vehicle manufacturers. They sent me the TSBs from at least 8 companies. I checked on alldata.com for 3 and found them to be correct and quit checking.
This has saved major repairs on at least 2 automatic transmissions, and one manual over the years.
Remember to remove the appropriate amount of tranny fluid before adding Lubegard.
heres the deal.. Im drivin my 91 celica (75k miles), and i hear a loud thumping noise coming from the front right... I get out thinkin its a flat tire or something, and I see nothing, I decide to just park the car for a while, and when I try to, I realize that putting the car into gear does not do anything, park, reverse, drive all cause a whining noise, and no engagement.... I noticed that putting it into drive causes a really loud screeching noise that doesnt go away...
I talked to a transmission repair man, and he told me that i could hope somehting was wrong with the axle and to check if when i put the car into drive, if I could see one axle spinning and not the other, it could mean that part of the axle broke.. as, this is a front wheel drive car
This morning i went under the car and could distinctly see the right axle turning and the other not when in drive, and a majority of the whirring noise appeared to be coming from that right axle...
guys, im really confused about what to do, I would really like a better idea of what is wrong so I just don't tow my car someplace and have them be able to say anything is wrong with it.. (or everything) have any of you heard of a similar circumstance? Do you think Id be better off taking the car to an Aamco or a toyota dealer, or just a local transmission shop? I am a college student, and I am really afraid of the potential costs here...
The outer constant velocity joint on the right half shaft is probably broken. Any competent repair shop can replace it with a remanufactured shaft for about 200 bucks.
Thats exactly what i was thinking but I wanted to see if somebody else thought so too... that is a huge relief... I changed the boot on the right side last summer, and must have messed something up putting the cv joint all back together.. . thanks a lot !!
I decided to try this product after all the great reviews on several message boards. However, as my tranny (at least to my thinking was operating fine) I did not expect to see any difference. tranny has 143,000 miles, switched to synthetic ATF at 25,000 drain and fill every 30,000, filter and magnets cleaned at 25,000 and 142,000. Never been flushed, drain and fill only.
After about 3 weeks on the Lubeguard now, as expected I do not feel or notice any difference in the operation of the transmission.
This further substantiates my opinion on all additives (engine and tranny). If you have a well running engine or transmission you do not need an additive. In all probablilty you will notice no difference and are wasting your money. As a last resort, if you are having a problem and in lieu of repair then you have nothing to lose, go for it.
Well at the very least the cost is cheap. Adding a bottle every 2 years costs only about 7 dollars a year. Good insurance.
Since I buy used cars I don't have perfect transmissions. It has measureably helped 2 of my vehicles and is so cheap that I put it in the third as a preventative.
Son's car that hadn't been serviced at all in 60,000 miles wouldn't shift well between first and second. It was the notorious CD4E Ford Tranny that is prone to breakdown if not babied. A complete flush of the fluid and adding the correct portions of Lubegard stopped further damage. The Difference was immediate. Cost $75.00. Beats the $2,500 repair estimate.
I have a 1996 mazda 626 , 4 cyl. , automatic transmisiion with OD. The problem... It will go into reverse and back up perfectly, but in Drive, 2 and 1, it wont move. A $2300 rebuilt is my last resort. All transmission repairmen have said to get a new one without even looking at my car.If you could give me some advice I would appreciate it.
This particular transmission, in its early days (let's say 1994 through mid-1997), had a tendency to self-destruct. If you were lucky, it did it before the three-year/50k-mile warranty ran out. Not everyone is lucky.
And even if you could fix just the damaged hard parts, which would cost you not much less than buying the rebuilt unit, you'd still have some six-year-old pieces in there waiting their turn to bite the dust.
I just bought a 98 acura cl 3.0 with 24000. I'm extremely happy with the car, but there seems to be a slight vibration when I lightly press the gas between 1500 and 2000 rpm. The vibration goes away as soon as I hit 2000 rpm. I took it to the dealer but they said everything was alright. I even went on a test drive with them, but they found nothing wrong. Am I just picky? Is this normal? Or is there something wrong?
My vehicle, a 1990 Pathfinder, is on its 2nd auto transmission. I had installed a used unit from a 1995 model that had 56k on its odometer, last October. Two months ago,I added a cooler with for the transmission. The system works except that now I sense that the shifts are a bit harsh. I went back and drain the ATF fluid and put semi-synthetic instead. I can still notice mildly hard shifts on ocassion and I can hear a "click" whenever the unit changes gears. I don't think it's the oil cooler since when I bypass it, nothing changes. The tranny is relatively new (mileage wise). The original transmission lasted well beyond 210K without a cooler and had better shifts up until the end. I have a light foot when driving. Can someone suggests a possible solution to remedy this?
Here is the story. I have 1994 Mazda 626 LX, V6 Two months ago my automatic transmission starts "bumping" when shifting to 2-3 gear. When I came to mechanic, he says I need transmission-rebuilt. New transmission costs $1600+labor+tax. I paid $1400 for all to rebuilt old one. Got 6 month/6000 miles warranty on it. Now, 2 months later I have same problems again. Bumping. Came to same mechanic for the warranty. He looked at the transmission and told me, that I do not have good motor-mounts installed or they are missing - so because of that engine broke the transmission again And I have to pay for transmission-rebuilt again. His argument was that it was not transmission fault, it was motor-mounts fault and because of that warranty is not applicable.
What should I do ? How I can argue with him ? should I rebuild transmission again or what ? Please, HELP
HI ALL JUST RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1990 FORD CUSTOM VAN IT HAS THE E40D TRANSMISSION IT WAS SUPPOSEDLY REBULT 60000 MILES AGO BUT MANY DEALERS TELL ME THAT THESE TRANSMISSIONS NEED TO BE REBUILT EVERY 30000 MILES BECAUSE THEY WERE DESIGNED POORLY DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE TRANNIES
Ask the mechanic how the motor mounts broke the transmission and what part is broken.You may also go to another transmission shop for a second opinion.Sounds fishy to me.
87 Calais: Sounds like a leak at the oil pick up. Since the filter is the pick up, the leak is most likely at the seal where the filter attaches to the case. Best bet on a repair? A filter change. Around 87 there was a design change that replaced o-ring seals on the filter with a lip seal that was pressed into the case. The better filter replacement kits will come with the new style seal.
86 Corvette: Since you are not shifting into fourth gear, you may not be able to get TCC apply. For some reason the shift valve is stuck. Sometimes a fluid change will help loosen stuck valves. Or you may have a TV cable that has stretched or somehow gone out of adjustment. These are the cheap "fixes". Worst case, the 3-4 clutch pack has failed. That fix would mean a removal and rebuild. If it comes down to a rebuild consider a 700 that has the upgraded hydraulics. Mid year 87, the valve body and pumps were changed. Mostly for shift feels and some durability. Terrible thing to say but good and honest tranny guys are tough to find. Many times a twenty buck part will fail and some guy trys to sell a two grand transmission. So most people are better off getting two or three estimates for tranny work, you'd be shocked how many times the prices and quality is all over the place.
I was present when my new camry was preped 3 weeks ago. ATF was at the cool level after the car had been driven several miles. Service man added about 1/2 quart of AFT. I noticed he used Shell dexron II III. When I got home and looked at my owner's manual it said use only Toyota T-IV ATF, anything else may damage your transmission. When I called the dealer(50 miles away and the closest) they didn't know anything about T-IV fluid so I told them to check to see if the Shell would hurt my car. Was later called by their customer service man who said they poured the T-IV ATF from big jugs into the(unmarked) Shell containers. Also said the service man I talked to had not been briefed on T-IV. So it looks that they aren't going to admit they put the wrong fluid in my car. My question of course is; will the 1/2 quart of dexron III have any negative effects on my camry transmission? I called Toyota customer service, but the lady was no help and said Toyota did not answer that type question. Does anyone know of a Toyota telephone number to call besides customer service?
My 99 Dodge Intrepid's transmission failed at 62,000. Is this a common problem or has it only happened to me? Chrysler refuses to help out in any way except to make an appointment for me at the nearest dealership. I can do that myself. Otherwise, they suggest I contact a lawyer if I want further satisfaction. I would love to hear some input on this matter.
You had an opportunity to purchase an extended service contract on the Intrepid to extended the power train warranty to at least 100k as the factory warranty ran out sooner. Why would you expect them to help you? Taking it on faith that something in an inexpensive car with a known poor record] will last beyond it's warranty or as long as some other make can be dangerous to your wallet!
Did you change the ATF within the past 5 or 10K miles. IF so what ATF was used. I wonder if DC is continuing to make self destructing trannies or is it a wrong ATF problem.
My local DC dealer assured me the DC self destructing tranny problem was long gone-hope he is right but maybe not.
Obviously, no matter how careful a driver you are, you could still end up in an accident.
The other day, my Sienna CE was rear-ended. I was stationary with my foot on the brake, waiting to turn a corner, when a 97 Rav 4 bumped my rear. The impact was quite strong, but not enough to do a big damage on my bumper. It held up well and there was only a slight dent on it. I already had the repair done on it by the dealer who informed me that they did not note any serious structural damage on it or the chassis/body, so there was no need to replace it.
I am curious to know if the rear ender might have caused any damage to my tranny, brakes, steering, wheel alignment (my front wheels were positioned to turn) or others.
Our Malibu was seriousely rear-ended in 1999: $5000 body damage. My wife who drove the car braked very strong when was hit, to limit the harm to the car in front of her. Damage to ABS (leak?) was found in body shop and needed a small repair.
Some 700 miles after the car was returned from body shop, brake pads wore out completly and scratched the rotors. Replacing them at dealership cost about $500 (expensive OEM parts and diagnostics). Most probably the pads were already almost worn-out, and the stress when hit was the last straw. At least it is what I believe - of course, it can be just a coincidence...
After the experience, I would insist on thorough checkup. Including brakes, etc. By mechanic, who maintains and fixes the systems every day: even while the body shop is a department of the same dealership, they are separate from mechanical.
I believe that alignment is needed after all body repairs, even very small.
Comments
(don't mean to be flip, it's just that it doesn't sound good JH. Hope I'm wrong)
Every once in a while as I am shifting from "P" into "D" or from "R" into "D" and I start moving, I notice the transmission slips. It happens mostly if I start to move too quickly after shifting. A mechanic friend says the transmission filter needs changed. The car has about 64k. If I shut the car off for a few seconds that seems to help. Any ideas?
So you may be lucky in this case.
I bought some from NAPA today to see if it might work wonders on my ailing Dodge pick-up tranny. The guy there says our local police department (town of 200,000) buys the stuff by the case full. That's a pretty good endorsemement, maybe.
Thanks
On my Subaru, the manual said that you didn't need to ever change the gear oil. Well at 90K it was very hard to shift, especially to 2nd and 4th. If I was in 4th gear and went over 55 MPH it would shudder. I drained out the gear oil and replaced it with fresh synthetic, and Lubegard. Immediately shifting was easier and smoother. Lubegard's claim of preventing gear shift shock still holds true, even 2 years later. I have also gotten up to 80 MPH in 4th with no shudder.
My Dodge was in a fender bender, and the transmission started to shake. Replaced the standard ATF and added Lubegard. Shifted very smoothly, but really improved when I added it the second time 2 years later. Now it shifts better than it did since I bought it.
My son has a Mazda with the infamous and weak automatic transmission. At 60K the transmission would stick when shifting from 1st to 2nd. The mechanic drained out all of the fluid, including the stuff in the converter, and replaced it with regular ATF and Lubegard. It has shifted perfectly ever since.
My local Transmission shop carries it as a standard product and loves it.
I'm a believer with the transmission additives.
I recently put the engine treatment in a vehicle and will see how it behaves on a trip to California in May.
He had to fight these guys tooth and nail to get the exchanges-they said it was his ECM and all kinds of other excuses. Now they will pay for the diagnosis at the Chevy dealer and one install. Moral to the story-check out anybody you get a rebuilt tranny from. Dealing with crooks is bad enough but add incompetency to the mix and wow loook out.
Looks like small claims court if #3 does not make the grade. Will keep you posted.
thanks Mr shiftright for your ideas.
Shifty
A friend who was in the car when it did this said it seemed to him, like the tranny was popping in and out, seeking gears. If I back off the gas, it stops. If I drop to second it stops. Just had a new fuel filter put in, 'cause to me, it felt like either gas starvation or too much gas.
Any ideas?
The reason I'm thinking of this is that a rebuilt 3-speed Hydramatic is a LOT cheaper than a rebuilt 4-speed, so I figured that if the tranny in Grandma's '85 ever did go out, maybe we'd just try having a 3-speed thrown in instead. Sure it'd hurt highway economy a bit, but this car doesn't go on very many long trips anymore.
Are you saying that's all I need? That would be great, so I think I'll try it. I don't want to over fill, so in case I have to take out some fluid to make room for the lubegard, what's the best way of doing that?
On my manual it was a simple drain and refill.
If possible I definitely recommend synthetic as well. It keeps the transmission cleaner, and I go 30,000 between changes. 15K on the conventional stuff.
If your Regal has the 3.8 litre V6 it may be one of the ignition coil pack(s) is misfiring, which is most notable under load.
A common problem afflicting the 3.8.
I'll post the solution for future reference.
Thanks for the thoughtful responses.
spark plugs
plug wires
ignition coils
If ignition checks out ok, then look for a worn converter clutch apply valve bore in the valve body.
This has saved major repairs on at least 2 automatic transmissions, and one manual over the years.
Remember to remove the appropriate amount of tranny fluid before adding Lubegard.
I noticed that putting it into drive causes a really loud screeching noise that doesnt go away...
I talked to a transmission repair man, and he told me that i could hope somehting was wrong with the axle and to check if when i put the car into drive, if I could see one axle spinning and not the other, it could mean that part of the axle broke.. as, this is a front wheel drive car
This morning i went under the car and could distinctly see the right axle turning and the other not when in drive, and a majority of the whirring noise appeared to be coming from that right axle...
guys, im really confused about what to do, I would really like a better idea of what is wrong so I just don't tow my car someplace and have them be able to say anything is wrong with it.. (or everything) have any of you heard of a similar circumstance? Do you think Id be better off taking the car to an Aamco or a toyota dealer, or just a local transmission shop? I am a college student, and I am really afraid of the potential costs here...
Thanks for everything...
After about 3 weeks on the Lubeguard now, as expected I do not feel or notice any difference in the operation of the transmission.
This further substantiates my opinion on all additives (engine and tranny). If you have a well running engine or transmission you do not need an additive. In all probablilty you will notice no difference and are wasting your money. As a last resort, if you are having a problem and in lieu of repair then you have nothing to lose, go for it.
Since I buy used cars I don't have perfect transmissions. It has measureably helped 2 of my vehicles and is so cheap that I put it in the third as a preventative.
Son's car that hadn't been serviced at all in 60,000 miles wouldn't shift well between first and second. It was the notorious CD4E Ford Tranny that is prone to breakdown if not babied. A complete flush of the fluid and adding the correct portions of Lubegard stopped further damage. The Difference was immediate. Cost $75.00. Beats the $2,500 repair estimate.
This particular transmission, in its early days (let's say 1994 through mid-1997), had a tendency to self-destruct. If you were lucky, it did it before the three-year/50k-mile warranty ran out. Not everyone is lucky.
And even if you could fix just the damaged hard parts, which would cost you not much less than buying the rebuilt unit, you'd still have some six-year-old pieces in there waiting their turn to bite the dust.
Let's hope Visa is in a good mood.
1995 model that had 56k on its odometer, last October. Two months ago,I added a cooler with for
the transmission. The system works except that now I sense that the shifts are a bit harsh. I went back and drain the ATF fluid and put semi-synthetic instead. I can still notice mildly hard shifts on ocassion and I can hear a "click" whenever the unit changes gears. I don't think it's the oil cooler since when I bypass it, nothing changes. The tranny is relatively new (mileage wise). The original transmission lasted well beyond 210K without a cooler and had better shifts up until the end. I have a light foot when driving. Can someone suggests a possible solution to remedy this?
Two months ago my automatic transmission starts "bumping" when shifting to 2-3 gear. When I came to mechanic, he says I need transmission-rebuilt. New transmission costs $1600+labor+tax. I paid $1400 for all to rebuilt old one. Got 6 month/6000 miles warranty on it.
Now, 2 months later I have same problems again. Bumping. Came to same mechanic for the warranty. He looked at the transmission and told me, that I do not have good motor-mounts installed or they are missing - so because of that engine broke the transmission again
His argument was that it was not transmission fault, it was motor-mounts fault and because of that warranty is not applicable.
What should I do ? How I can argue with him ? should I rebuild transmission again or what ?
Please, HELP
86 Corvette: Since you are not shifting into fourth gear, you may not be able to get TCC apply. For some reason the shift valve is stuck. Sometimes a fluid change will help loosen stuck valves. Or you may have a TV cable that has stretched or somehow gone out of adjustment. These are the cheap "fixes". Worst case, the 3-4 clutch pack has failed. That fix would mean a removal and rebuild. If it comes down to a rebuild consider a 700 that has the upgraded hydraulics. Mid year 87, the valve body and pumps were changed. Mostly for shift feels and some durability. Terrible thing to say but good and honest tranny guys are tough to find. Many times a twenty buck part will fail and some guy trys to sell a two grand transmission. So most people are better off getting two or three estimates for tranny work, you'd be shocked how many times the prices and quality is all over the place.
I am specifically talking about the MAzda protege 99-00 models.
Taking it on faith that something in an inexpensive car with a known poor record] will last beyond it's warranty or as long as some other make can be dangerous to your wallet!
My local DC dealer assured me the DC self destructing tranny problem was long gone-hope he is right but maybe not.
The other day, my Sienna CE was rear-ended. I was stationary with my foot on the brake, waiting to turn a corner, when a 97 Rav 4 bumped my rear. The impact was quite strong, but not enough to do a big damage on my bumper. It held up well and there was only a slight dent on it. I already had the repair done on it by the dealer who informed me that they did not note any serious structural damage on it or the chassis/body, so there was no need to replace it.
I am curious to know if the rear ender might have caused any damage to my tranny, brakes, steering, wheel alignment (my front wheels were positioned to turn) or others.
Some 700 miles after the car was returned from body shop, brake pads wore out completly and scratched the rotors. Replacing them at dealership cost about $500 (expensive OEM parts and diagnostics). Most probably the pads were already almost worn-out, and the stress when hit was the last straw. At least it is what I believe - of course, it can be just a coincidence...
After the experience, I would insist on thorough checkup. Including brakes, etc. By mechanic, who maintains and fixes the systems every day: even while the body shop is a department of the same dealership, they are separate from mechanical.
I believe that alignment is needed after all body repairs, even very small.