Without looking at the dipstick it's difficult to say whether there's a problem or, as adc100 mentioned, it's normal. Transmission fluid foaming is usually caused by overfilling or a leak at the filter. The trans pump delivers more fluid than the hydraulic system needs and the excess is recirculated by the pressure regulator back to pump intake, usually through the filter. If there's any leak at the filter it can cause aeration and foaming of the fluid. P.S. Make, model, year, engine would be nice to know when posting problems.
I'll tell you one thing...don't go driving with that transmission slipping like that. If it really is revving up to high rpm and not moving very much, you are just punishing the transmission doing that.
where did you come up with the run till hot on the no dipstick trans,my Chilton states 104 deg F which is a 3-5 min run at idle.I don't have acess to a factory manual.
Oops....you're right on that one, just checked a 1999 Malibu/Cutlass service manual and it specifies minimum 104F for fluid check. The rest of the info is the same. The same manual also says under the heading Fluid Leak Diagnosis, however "Operate the vehicle for 24 km (15 miles) or until normal operating temperature is reached". Go figure.
Most manufacturers want the trans at operating temp. 1993 Ford manual: "The automatic transaxle fluid level can only be established at an operating temperature of 66C-77C (150F-170F) (dipstick is hot to the touch). The operating temperature may be obtained 24-32 km (15-20 miles) of city type driving with the outside temperature above 10C (50F)"
1996 Aurora/Riviera manual: "Fluid level should be checked when it reaches normal operating temperatures of 88C to 93C (190F to 200F). This temperature is reached after approximately 24 km (15 miles) of highway driving." Ditto for most GM's.
Some GM fwd models have a thermo element in the channel plate separating the lower sump from the upper (side) sump. The 4T40&45-E use an oil level control valve. When the element or valve opens it allows fluid to be drawn from the lower sump to the upper. Fluid level in the lower sump DECREASES when the unit warms up. My guess is the owner of the Malibu had the trans service done then fluid level checked with the transaxle cold and the fluid level control valve closed.
A friend just bought a 2002 Camry with the I4, and was looking through the owner's manual. Under fluid checks there is no mention of the trans fluid. In the engine bay, Where's What diagram the trans dipstick isn't even pointed out. It has one: bright red handle and plain as day when you look under the hood. Very strange.
I have always believed the 15 mi hot check to be the most accurate level check. This 104 deg F temp is probably the min to make sure the upper chamber is full. I still have 8 K to go on my 00 4T40E trans before fluid filter change and really not 100% sure on how to do it.
I have a 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis with over 50k miles. I changed the transmission oil at 35k including the torque converter. Just recently about 10 days ago the problem started. Whenever I drive somewhere it smells like the transmission is buring. I checked the level on the dipstick and the color and smell is fine when turned off.
How do I go about in pinpoint the leak if there is a leak? Any post would be helpful!!
You should check the fluid with the engine at normal operating temperature, engine running, tranny in park on a level surface. As far as locating a leak, look under it to see if there is any fluid on the ground or on the tranny pan. If the pan is leaking, simply checking to make sure the pan bolts are tight should do it. But be careful, do not over do it. I have a 95 Cougar that most likely has the same tranny as your car. The torque spec on the pan bolts is only approximately 30inlbs, which is not very tight! Tell me what you found.
i accidentally shoved the tranny into Reverse while driving 65 mph on the highway. the indicator got bumped and it skipped right over into "R"... i got a loud CRUNCH noise but i immediately shoved it back into "D" and i have not had a single problem with it since then. my truck is a 2000 Ranger, if that helps. Did i do damage? how much? its still under warranty...any stories i can tell the deler to get them to check it for me and not make fun of me? lol
i accidentally shifted my automatic tranny in my 2000 Ranger into reverse at highway speed. i dont notice any problems since then, but did i do damage? how do i check? and can anyone think of something creative to tell the dealer to get them to fix it under warranty? lol
I printed the part of this discussion with alcan's and Mr_Shiftright's recommendations, and brought the printout to our Firestone shop. Discussed it with the manager and the technician who checked the car.
The technician, a serious man in his forties, did it exactly the same way. He even demonstrated me the printouts with GM instructions. The shop accesses them using computer, and the technician printed the insructions to be sure.
The technician told me, that at required temperature, the ATF stayed exactly on the check hole level. He did not need to add anything to check. This is why he did not open the box of ATF I provided.
He is not sure, though, if Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid is a good replacement to Dexron III, required by GM. He never worked with synthetic ATF before. Suggested to call GM and to ask direct confirmation.
I looked again on the Mobil 1 ATF bottle: it says "Dexron III" on the very top line. The Mobil 1 site says: Applications: Provides performance superior to GM Dexron® III and Mercon® in all domestic and imported cars and most automatic truck transmissions.
and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is a superior Dexron® III-qualified product ... in data sheet.
Called GM customer service, and get confirmation that if the bottle is saying "Dexron III", it must work. However, I have an impression, that the lady at customer service knew nothing about Mobil 1, nor synthetics ATF generally.
I made an appointment at dealership for Friday morning to check the transmission. Will drive there only after thoroughly warming the car.
I have an Eagle Vision '95, 108k miles, and have been hearing grinding noises from below, probably the transmission. The noise is not terribly high and I can best hear at low RPMs when the engine is quiet, for instance when depressing the accelerator at speeds higher than 40mph. Also I can sense fine vibrations in the pedal and the wheel when accelerating. Shifting works fine and the noise only occurs while driving so I guess it must be the drive train, the torque converter or most likely the transmission. Anybody else had similar experiences? Appreciate.
Left the Malibu at dealership yesterday morning for diagnostic. They told me it will took a whole day, and I called them today in the morning for results.
The diagnose turned to be: "a problem inside transmission. It is less expensive to replace the whole assembly"...
I am not a mechanical engineer. However, do not see anything wrong with remanufactured parts. Processed on factory, according to standards, in average, they probably are at least not worse than the same parts fixed and reassembled at shop. I do not like to waste people's work and throw things away. However, in our mass production age this old-fashioned customs are less reliable.
Additionally, I hope, there must be a warranty for remanufactured transmission. And, any case, the car still will be covered for several years by the extended warranty. 4 or 5 years, I do not remember exactly.
Of course, this is just my opinion. Personally, I have very limited experience with cars. Did not have car before emigrating, and learned to drive already in USA.
Richard Chevrolet, Cheshire, CT is a very good dealership. Several years ago it was even nominated by GM as "the best big Chevrolet dealeship" nationwide in the user satisfaction. They treated us very well for the 3.5 years since we bought the car, and I trust their opinion.
The employees work here forever, and are very competent. Did not see anybody leave in service department in the 3.5 years. All walls of the department are covered by certificates from professional societies, GM, state, etc., demonstrating that the service advisers, managers, and others have continous professional education, passed tests every year, etc., etc.
Of course, anybody who works makes mistakes sometimes. However, I do not think that I can find more competent shop, and definitely cannot do it easy and fast. Even more, than I cannot search for a good mechanic the usual way: through common friends and / or word of mouth.
Have too few friends around. Immigrated less than 6 years ago, when was 45 years old - not the age when you make a lot of new friends. Especially with rather limited English, and technical job requiring few contacts with humans.
I didn't realize your car was covered by an extended warranty. GM's SRTA remanufactured transmissions and transaxles are definitely top quality units. They also have all the latest product upgrades incorporated into them. They're probably the best way to go, especially if warranty is paying the tab. Let us know how it works out.
As alcan knows,,I had an auto trans replaced after 200 miles in my Sentra. I was highly upset with receiving a remanufactured unit. Thanks in part to alcan's information ( he indicated to me that remanufactured parts are very satisfactory), I got over it. 13,000 miles later the auto transmission is flawless. One thing though that I did was put in the Mobil 1 synthetic fluid. Hoping for logn living tranny.
I also wanted to put in the Mobil 1 ATF. Called the service adviser at dealership this morning. He told me that remanufactured GM transmissions are coming already filled by fluid.
The modern transmission filter and fluid are very good, though. GM recommends replacing them after 50,000 miles for severe deriving conditions; otherwise they are good for the life of car. This is for natural Dexron III ATF, not synthetic.
My friend bought a 2000 Suburu legacy with about 18000 miles from CarSense (www.carsense.com) in Uwchlan, PA. We were driving home from work, when the "AT Temp" light came on and blinked. Manual says it's fine, don't hit stop & go traffic, but if it went on immediately after starting the car, trouble.
So we got back, and checked the trans fluid. Keep in mind, he put less than 1000 miles on the car, and the fluid was the same oil as the motor oil! Quick sniff, smells somewhat like ATF. Oh [non-permissible content removed].
I told him get the pan dropped and the whole nine yards. Do it ASAP. Call CarSense and make them do the whole nine yards. I also told him to ask why they did not check the ATF condition also.
Here's what they said: -We don't check the condition of the ATF until 30,000 miles -Don't worry you'll be fine driving it (over 200 miles back to the dealership) -We'll take a look at it.
I'm going to love to read their diagnosis and see if they just did a quick drain-refill instead.
Brought the car to dealership at 8am Friday, the service adviser called me to say that "All set" 9am Saturday. Exactly 8 days, mostly waiting for the transmission.
Invoice:
Trans slipping when its cold Found tranny worn out Replaced tranny
- auto tran diagnosis hours :9.00, $675 - trans rem, $2325; - core return, -$700 ... Total invoice $2300.
of course, the labor included much more than diagnostics.
Our extended warranty covered the full amount. We bought it because bought the car used, with unknown history, and had a lot of small problems while under the initial manufacturer warranty. Now we are very glad that bought the warranty.
The service adviser told us that the transmission is as new, and will not need service for the next 40,000-45,000 miles. There is no break-in period, I can drive the car the usual way from the very beginning.
While drove the car home, everything looked fine. Too short time to know, though.
While without the car, I borrowed a car from my sister. Her daughter is in college, and the car is sitting unused.
94 Olds Sierra S, built in summer 1993. To the best of my understanding, it have earlier modifications of the same engine and transmission as my Malibu. 103k miles on odometer (well, 102900+).
Was impressed by its ride: the suspension is more tight, transmission shifts a notch more aggressively, the car pulls great, especially from stop / at low speed. Only when driving up step hills at 35-40 mph, I felt that the engine have somewhat less power that Malibu.
I have a 2000 Mazda 626 with 39,000 miles which often fails to engage into gear after it has sat for an extended time. (overnight or all day while at work) I have to shift it into reverse and then into drive to have the transmission engage. It operates once it gets going but downshifts hard into first when I stop often with a thunk. I had the transmission flushed a couple of weeks ago but did not improve the syptems. Actually got worse. I am taking the car into the dealers this week. Any ideas as to what I could be looking at?
Glad to hear you got your transaxle problem resolved. I'll bet you're glad now that you opted for the extended warranty. Factory reman units are usually at least as good as, if not better than, the original. More so than with any other major subassembly, transmissions and transaxles go through an evolutionary process. As problem areas are revealed (usually through warranty claims for a given failure), the powertrain engineers will redesign a component or assembly to improve it's performance and durability. Factory reman's usually include all the latest parts updates and revisions, giving you an assembly that's superior to the original unit the vehicle came with. Btw, sounds like they took a pretty big bite out of the warranty company with the 9 hours for diagnosis, unless that also included removal and reinstallation.
Removing the bad transmission and replacing it must be a whole day work. Odometer shows, that they even test-drove the car for several miles, 15 or so.
However, there were no other charges in invoice, but for parts and diagnostics. When I brought the car, the service adviser told me that diagnostics will cost $75 - this is one hour of labor with that shop. I believe, the 9 hours of labor includes all jobs, not diagnostics only. Just bad wording.
By the way, the car accelerates much better now, cold and hot. As fast as in 1998, when we bought it.
I did not feel the slow performance degradation. Or rather felt something, for a whole year or more, but was too unsure.
Turned to be, the transmission behaved bad at any temperature - but only recently it became so obvious, and only when cold.
I have a 95 Nissan Altima and it currently has 64K miles on it. The transmission fluid has never been changed and it is clean but a little bit less redish than new fluid. Should I go ahead to change the fluid now or don't bother with it? I have heard of all kind of informations and I am confused. Help me please!!!
Most neglect the transmission more than any other part of the car. I would recommend a complete flush to keep the fluid clean. After that you can do a drain and fill every 30K for a lot less.
Your color indicates that the fluid is old, but if it's not real dark, then you should still be OK.
My transmission went out on my automatic 1992 Camry which is in otherwise outstanding condition with 128k. I have decided to buy a new car but not to use this one as a trade in since I would only get $500 for it. My question is do you think I stand a better chance of selling it for say $1000 to $1500 as is (transmission needing to be rebuilt/repaired or replaced) or spending the $1500 to $2000 to fix it and then try and sell it for $2500 to $3500?
You may not come out ahead by fixing the tranny, but you sure will have a hard time getting rid of that car with a bad tranny in it. I'm sure someone would give you $500 for it "as-is" even if all they are after is the motor or other parts.
Another option might be donating the car. Check the "Blue book Value" of the car and then your tax bracket. If KBB says the car is worth $3,000, and you are in the 27% tax bracket, you will end up with a tax deduction of $810. In the end you may end up ahead by giving the car away. And you help out someone in need.
I have a 92 mirage with 103k miles. when I start the car in the morning from park to reverse, nothing happens for a few seconds, then the transmission jerks violently in reverse. Then while trying to speed up from stop lights or onto traffic, the transmission is slow to kick in. What do you guys think in particular is wrong? torque converter? sticky valves? I bought some lubeguard to put in it this week when I switch my tranny fluid out. I'm going to put redline D4 atf instead of the conventional stuff. Hopefully this will eliminate some of these problems
The trans. just totally went out on me one day, so I bought a used one with not that many miles on it from a reputable salvage place. anyway, I have just installed the new one. It drives fine, but sometimes when you come to a stop it goes out of gear. then when you go to take off it just revs like it's in neutral for a second then slams into gear and goes. it doesn't do it all the time, but i'm wondering if there's anything i can do about it. '91 taurus, 3.0L, AX4S, 75,000 miles
Greetings all. Alot of good info here. I would like to have a response from those that use and have knowledge of synthetic trans fluid. I have a 2000 Durango. I put in Redline C+ synthetic trans fluid at 500 miles and 12,000 miles. The 12,000 was done because of a leaking pan gasket. The truck now has 53,500+ miles and the trans is working flawless. I am going to have it seviced again on Friday. What have been your experiences with synthetic? My truck is all synth now, including the diff's. I have no problems. I checked the fluid last weekend and it is clear cherry red like it was just put in. With an additional 40,000+ miles I want to swap it out. Do you think this is to early for this or should I go ahead?
When it was changed at 500 Miles and 12K was the fluid changed in the torque converter also? Is there a filter?In either case its probably not necessary, but if the fluid in the torque converter was not drained- two drains gets you about maybe 80% changeout. So you do have some regular ATF in there. Under those circumstances I would change for good measure- even though its probably overkill.
I have to go on Friday for servicing and I will definitely have them continue using my Redline. I am also going to have to get some Lubegard. I think that this will be an added benefit for long tranny life. They always change the filters. There are 2 filter in this new DC tranny for the 4.7 liter engine. I have not had the converter drained. I just do the basic maintenance for the trans. Fluids and filters on a regular basis.
Just had my 92 Caravan ES AWD auto in for a total fluid exchange. They dropped the pan hoping to find gold, but it was clean of any filings. The tranny had already been re-built at 72,000 miles. and I now have 40,000 miles on the re-build. They flushed the converter, and even cut the filter apart, looking for cuttings. In the discussions on the Dodge A/T's from the late 80's and 90's, the horror stories are everywhere about what a total disaster the factory units were/are. I am sure there might be some exceptions where someone has put 100,000 + miles on an original one, but from the Class Action Lawsuits, Consumer Complaints and my own re-build, I think an original Chysler MiniVan A/T still running without a re-build is rare. the good news is however, the 'aftermarket' people who fix these things everyday of the week, know what the problems are, and have "kits" that include the fixes to the original problem areas. (Seals that turn brittle and self destruct, pins that break under the stress of the tourqe, and so on.) There might be some truth in all of this, as our family has had a ' factory rebuilt' from Chrysler, self destruct in 24,000 miles! the tranny shop guy sighed and said, "well, a Chrysler rebuilt, can be re-built back to factory specs'. Same parts, so, same problems. The 'aftermarket' re-build' that we have, is proof there are builders out there know how to get these things working, its just too bad it isn't Chrysler. I have noticed that all the auto trans'rebuild shops in our area are carrying 'Lubeguard', if it does half of what the company hype says, it will be worth the extra $12.00 to help keep my Van on the road, and out of the shop.
Has anyone had any experience with it? I have just put some in my tranny and I can tell it is running smoother. I use the Redline ATF C+ in my trans and this stuff just seemed to make it better.
Ywilson, I got the full press kit from the company and its a lot of reading! If you just pick up the little hand out at the tranny shops, it may look like just another miracle in a bottle' product that you pour, and pray, and some sleezeball laughs all the way to the bank. But the testing Lubgard has done against other additives has the one big exception, there are OEM Auto manufactures out there who are now using their product to solve warranty tranny problems. I don't think these guys would be staking their reputations on an aftermarket product without a lot of serious scrutiny, and hands on experience. I know, for what a rack and pinion, power steering pump fix costs, I will be using their additive in there, as well as the A/T. As the info says, your automatic transmission is the 2nd biggest expense in you car, getting the whole power steering system changed is a close third.. Perhaps we are all a little paranoid on these mainenence forums, but I'll bet 99% of us here, have learned 'the hard way' that an oz. of prevention, beats a ton of Tow Trucks.
I have a 99 maxima with 80000 miles. In the mornings or after not driving the car for awhile, if I start driving on the interstate, my transmision will not shift into the last gear (auto) about 65 mph is the faster I will go until the transmission finally warms up. What is wrong? please help thank you.
All post 95 [some 88's] tranny have a temperature sensor that inhibits 4th [or 4th and 5th] until the ATF reaches 120F. To protect the clutches in transmission. Normal obviously you are not letting the car warm up sufficiently before driving.
I think its a good product. I used it in my dear departed '92 Corsica and I believe it improved shifting. I plan on shortly putting it in my 01 Sentra.
I am going to try and rebuild my 92 Explorer A4LD transmission this spring. I see Haynes FORD AOD transmission books but they are wrapped in plastic at the counter. Is this the appropriate book or is there something better.
No. The A4LD (Automatic 4 speed Light Duty) is a completely different unit from the heavier duty AOD (Automatic Overdrive) and shares no common components. Be especially careful with the centre support's round o-rings, check the overdrive sprag closely for any indication of blueing on the races, and the proper alignment tool MUST be used when re-installing the pump and bellhousing or you'll have a pump and converter failure. Are you sure it's an A4LD? What are the quadrant markings?
When I did a auto tranny fluid change in my 00 mazda protege ES, for the first couple of months i found the shifting very quick...shifted easily at single jab of the gas pedal. But now I have to force down on the gas pedal to downshift during stop & go traffic.
But it feels normal during Highway driving.
FYI: ATF required Dexron III Replaced it with AMSOIL Synthetic Universal ATF.
BTW it is still under warranty but I like to identify the problem correctly when talking with my service manager.
Gooroos, I need your precious insight into this matter.
and I think the Explorers used them through 94. The car is in storage now so I won't get the numbers for a while. Just something I always wanted to try. Have a nice space to work, access to tools and can take a couple of months to do it. Also have a couple of guys that will do it cheap if I pull it out. Even my dentist rebuilds transmissions. What could be better than a chance to buy more new tools. When I bought the car, I dropped the pan and found six needle bearings in the filter. The first time it was rebuilt they replaced the planetary drive that had broken the weld. I think they didn't properly flush it. Six months later I drained the pan and it was black with sediment. At 14 months, the lockup converter went out. Drove it for the next 100K by changing fluid every 8 months and cleaning the 5 magnets I added to the pan. They sure loaded up with metal. In the last month of operation, the fluid turned jet black. It still drove fine, just didn't want to push it. I figure I can do that good a job! This time it will get a new torque converter. The car will retire to about 8k of use a year. Any suggestion to a good manual would be appreciated
Seems to me you want the factory manual if they make one.
One very important aspect of auto trans rebuilding that even professionals sometimes overlook is cleanliness, very very meticulous cleanliness when working and assembling.
My 94 Caravan with 150000 miles just started having transmission problems. transmission won't engage until the engine is hot. Then, no reverse, only forward. I hear a whining sound as I drive and it won't readily shift from second to third while driving. I'm taking it Monday to change fluid and filter. Any suggestions ?
Comments
P.S. Make, model, year, engine would be nice to know when posting problems.
Most manufacturers want the trans at operating temp.
1993 Ford manual: "The automatic transaxle fluid level can only be established at an operating temperature of 66C-77C (150F-170F) (dipstick is hot to the touch). The operating temperature may be obtained 24-32 km (15-20 miles) of city type driving with the outside temperature above 10C (50F)"
1996 Aurora/Riviera manual:
"Fluid level should be checked when it reaches normal operating temperatures of 88C to 93C (190F to 200F). This temperature is reached after approximately 24 km (15 miles) of highway driving." Ditto for most GM's.
Some GM fwd models have a thermo element in the channel plate separating the lower sump from the upper (side) sump. The 4T40&45-E use an oil level control valve. When the element or valve opens it allows fluid to be drawn from the lower sump to the upper. Fluid level in the lower sump DECREASES when the unit warms up. My guess is the owner of the Malibu had the trans service done then fluid level checked with the transaxle cold and the fluid level control valve closed.
This 104 deg F temp is probably the min to make sure the upper chamber is full.
I still have 8 K to go on my 00 4T40E trans before fluid filter change and really not 100% sure on how to do it.
How do I go about in pinpoint the leak if there is a leak? Any post would be helpful!!
my truck is a 2000 Ranger, if that helps. Did i do damage? how much? its still under warranty...any stories i can tell the deler to get them to check it for me and not make fun of me? lol
The technician, a serious man in his forties, did it exactly the same way. He even demonstrated me the printouts with GM instructions. The shop accesses them using computer, and the technician printed the insructions to be sure.
The technician told me, that at required temperature, the ATF stayed exactly on the check hole level. He did not need to add anything to check. This is why he did not open the box of ATF I provided.
He is not sure, though, if Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid is a good replacement to Dexron III, required by GM. He never worked with synthetic ATF before. Suggested to call GM and to ask direct confirmation.
I looked again on the Mobil 1 ATF bottle: it says "Dexron III" on the very top line. The Mobil 1 site says: Applications: Provides performance superior to GM Dexron® III and Mercon® in all domestic and imported cars and most automatic truck transmissions.
http://www.mobil1.com/index.jsp
and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is a superior Dexron® III-qualified product ... in data sheet.
Called GM customer service, and get confirmation that if the bottle is saying "Dexron III", it must work. However, I have an impression, that the lady at customer service knew nothing about Mobil 1, nor synthetics ATF generally.
I made an appointment at dealership for Friday morning to check the transmission. Will drive there only after thoroughly warming the car.
The diagnose turned to be: "a problem inside transmission. It is less expensive to replace the whole assembly"...
I am not a mechanical engineer. However, do not see anything wrong with remanufactured parts. Processed on factory, according to standards, in average, they probably are at least not worse than the same parts fixed and reassembled at shop. I do not like to waste people's work and throw things away. However, in our mass production age this old-fashioned customs are less reliable.
Additionally, I hope, there must be a warranty for remanufactured transmission. And, any case, the car still will be covered for several years by the extended warranty. 4 or 5 years, I do not remember exactly.
Of course, this is just my opinion. Personally, I have very limited experience with cars. Did not have car before emigrating, and learned to drive already in USA.
Richard Chevrolet, Cheshire, CT is a very good dealership. Several years ago it was even nominated by GM as "the best big Chevrolet dealeship" nationwide in the user satisfaction. They treated us very well for the 3.5 years since we bought the car, and I trust their opinion.
The employees work here forever, and are very competent. Did not see anybody leave in service department in the 3.5 years. All walls of the department are covered by certificates from professional societies, GM, state, etc., demonstrating that the service advisers, managers, and others have continous professional education, passed tests every year, etc., etc.
Of course, anybody who works makes mistakes sometimes. However, I do not think that I can find more competent shop, and definitely cannot do it easy and fast. Even more, than I cannot search for a good mechanic the usual way: through common friends and / or word of mouth.
Have too few friends around. Immigrated less than 6 years ago, when was 45 years old - not the age when you make a lot of new friends. Especially with rather limited English, and technical job requiring few contacts with humans.
Later
AL
The modern transmission filter and fluid are very good, though. GM recommends replacing them after 50,000 miles for severe deriving conditions; otherwise they are good for the life of car. This is for natural Dexron III ATF, not synthetic.
Thank you!
So we got back, and checked the trans fluid. Keep in mind, he put less than 1000 miles on the car, and the fluid was the same oil as the motor oil! Quick sniff, smells somewhat like ATF. Oh [non-permissible content removed].
I told him get the pan dropped and the whole nine yards. Do it ASAP. Call CarSense and make them do the whole nine yards. I also told him to ask why they did not check the ATF condition also.
Here's what they said:
-We don't check the condition of the ATF until 30,000 miles
-Don't worry you'll be fine driving it (over 200 miles back to the dealership)
-We'll take a look at it.
I'm going to love to read their diagnosis and see if they just did a quick drain-refill instead.
Brought the car to dealership at 8am Friday, the service adviser called me to say that "All set" 9am Saturday. Exactly 8 days, mostly waiting for the transmission.
Invoice:
Trans slipping when its cold
Found tranny worn out
Replaced tranny
- auto tran diagnosis hours :9.00, $675
- trans rem, $2325;
- core return, -$700
...
Total invoice $2300.
of course, the labor included much more than diagnostics.
Our extended warranty covered the full amount. We bought it because bought the car used, with unknown history, and had a lot of small problems while under the initial manufacturer warranty. Now we are very glad that bought the warranty.
The service adviser told us that the transmission is as new, and will not need service for the next 40,000-45,000 miles. There is no break-in period, I can drive the car the usual way from the very beginning.
While drove the car home, everything looked fine. Too short time to know, though.
While without the car, I borrowed a car from my sister. Her daughter is in college, and the car is sitting unused.
94 Olds Sierra S, built in summer 1993. To the best of my understanding, it have earlier modifications of the same engine and transmission as my Malibu. 103k miles on odometer (well, 102900+).
Was impressed by its ride: the suspension is more tight, transmission shifts a notch more aggressively, the car pulls great, especially from stop / at low speed. Only when driving up step hills at 35-40 mph, I felt that the engine have somewhat less power that Malibu.
Removing the bad transmission and replacing it must be a whole day work. Odometer shows, that they even test-drove the car for several miles, 15 or so.
However, there were no other charges in invoice, but for parts and diagnostics. When I brought the car, the service adviser told me that diagnostics will cost $75 - this is one hour of labor with that shop. I believe, the 9 hours of labor includes all jobs, not diagnostics only. Just bad wording.
By the way, the car accelerates much better now, cold and hot. As fast as in 1998, when we bought it.
I did not feel the slow performance degradation. Or rather felt something, for a whole year or more, but was too unsure.
Turned to be, the transmission behaved bad at any temperature - but only recently it became so obvious, and only when cold.
-We cannot change the fluid because it requires special tools.
-Take it to a Subaru dealership, AND it will be covered under warranty.
-He shouldn't worry about the consequences of driving the car around (with the fluid looking like motor oil).
------------
Total B.S. what they said about the fluid change covered under warranty. He's driving a ticking time bomb.
Your color indicates that the fluid is old, but if it's not real dark, then you should still be OK.
Thanks in advance for you input
and I now have 40,000 miles on the re-build. They flushed the converter, and even cut the filter apart, looking for cuttings. In the discussions on the Dodge A/T's from the late 80's and 90's, the horror stories are everywhere about what a total disaster the factory units were/are. I am sure there might be some exceptions where someone has put 100,000 + miles on an original one, but from the Class Action Lawsuits, Consumer Complaints and my own re-build, I think an original Chysler MiniVan A/T still running without a re-build is rare.
the good news is however, the 'aftermarket' people who fix these things everyday of the week, know what the problems are, and have "kits" that include the fixes to the original problem areas.
(Seals that turn brittle and self destruct, pins that break under the stress of the tourqe, and so on.) There might be some truth in all of this, as our family has had a ' factory rebuilt' from Chrysler, self destruct in 24,000 miles! the tranny shop guy sighed and said, "well, a Chrysler rebuilt, can be re-built back to factory specs'. Same parts, so, same problems. The 'aftermarket' re-build' that we have, is proof there are builders out there know how to get these things working, its just too bad it isn't Chrysler. I have noticed that all the auto trans'rebuild shops in our area are carrying 'Lubeguard', if it does half of what the company hype says, it will be worth the extra $12.00 to help keep my Van on the road, and out of the shop.
But now I have to force down on the gas pedal to downshift during stop & go traffic.
But it feels normal during Highway driving.
FYI: ATF required Dexron III
Replaced it with AMSOIL Synthetic Universal ATF.
BTW it is still under warranty but I like to identify the problem correctly when talking with my service manager.
Gooroos, I need your precious insight into this matter.
One very important aspect of auto trans rebuilding that even professionals sometimes overlook is cleanliness, very very meticulous cleanliness when working and assembling.