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The B7XA transmission started slipping (revving high then slamming into gear -- and this wasn't in just one gear, either). I took it to Mister Transmission and was quoted C$1,500 to C$2,000. Worried about the possibility of an unreplaced component inside the transmission failing after such a big repair bill, I had the whole thing replaced by the dealer with a reman at 230,000 km (140,000 miles) at a negotiated cost of C$3,000 (~US$2,200) plus taxes (parts and labour included). At first the dealer didn't think he could sell me such a transmission, since there was a part number for it but it was only valid for warranty replacements and not on a CP (Customer Pay) basis. They then informed me that they could do the job after all, so they did.
I had doubts about the replacement B7XA transmission since it started exhibiting the same symptoms, yet much milder and quite rarely, around 265,000 km (35,000 km into the life of the replacement). I inquired about the warranty (something I should have done at the time of the replacement) and was told the warranty of the replacement was 12 months or 20,000 km, whichever came first. Luckily the symptoms seemed to go away.
Two months ago I traded in that car, with 283,000 km on the odometer, towards a 2003 Accord EX V6 MT. I figured that way, even if I drove the snot out of this car like I did with the last one, at least I'd either just need a new clutch or new synchronizers -- and at the worst, rebuilding a manual is a LOT cheaper than rebuilding an automatic!
My take is it could bad engine mount(s).
I didn't bother to have it checked because it runs fine on flat surface and I don't intend to keep the car for long.
Vehicle Alignment
Wheel/tire balancing
Suspension(blown struts, weak springs(unlikely), loose mount, etc.
Anne
if it's more of a "clink" I personally would just turn the CD up to 11 and be done with it. if a car squeaks in my key, I don't mind, we sing a duet.
if it's a big old feelable "clunk" then something may need to be done. but lots of larger vehicles, particularly pickups and the like, have one as part of their package, and that's just the way that it is.
if I have a "clunk" on a passenger sedan or coupe, I would have it checked. cost me two U-joints when I had one in my buick, way back when.
I first noticed an occasional slip when the van had around 32K miles. I took it in and my dealer could never repeat the problem.(We figured, traction control?) It now happens more often, worse my wife was 300miles away when the vehicle showed a new symptom it would whine and hardshift. We could not repeat this problem until yesterday it happened again. Does anyone know about this, I heard there is a service bulleton about replacing a pressure control solenoid valve assembly? Cost?Any help would be great.
thanks
Jack
Thanks,
Doug
Doug
Recently however, it has developed a problem. When left idle over an extended period of time, the shift/engagement of the gears ( from "park" => reverse or drive) instantly kills the engine. Then I put the shift back to "park" and try again. After a few times, it engages reluctantly, still slowing the engine down. After a while say 2-5 mins., everything works OK. Cold weather seems to aggravate the problem.
Once it gets going, the transmission shift is smooth and predictable and the only noticeable thing is that it had dropped gas mileage, about, 5%.
Please help me in identifying the problem, so that I can talk to the garage people. I am still smarting from a "ride" which cost me $500.00. I most certainly want to avoid something like that this time.
and one thing breaks after another i just recently replaced my crank shaft pulley last month and they said it was a common problem
but now latley when im driving up slight hills my car keeps reving like its trying to get into gear
and then i press the gas harder and it goes now people are telling me my trans might be going and some tell me it might be the torque converter?
i dont know i have 104,000 miles on it can someone answer my question???????
Why do you think even legitiment extended "warranty" service contracts stop a 100,000 miles.......the probabilites get too high.
The problem is very intermittant, and of course will never show up at the dealer. The car is still under an extended warranty and I would like to have it fixed before it expires. Does anyone know any tricks to have the problem show up? The dealer will not do anything w/o seeing the problem, even commenting that other things could cause the symptoms, ie: faulty ignition?
The problem first showed up (coincidently?) after having the trannie fluid and filter changed. Now if I wait long enough between checking the fluid, I'll get some black stuff on the dipstick, which bothers me.
Any help is appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
Joe
TSB # 00-07-30-002B by alcan Jun 05, 2003 (4:19 pm)
Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly) #00-07-30-002B - (07/19/2002)
Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)
Not having trouble after the transmission has warmed up leads me to believe that the problem is not with the transmission itself, but probably another component. Can somebody shed some light on what may be causing this? Thanks.
That Jeep is being used in the hardest and worst way possible and it's thirteen years old!
With all of that stop and go driving I would have my fluid changed probably twice a year!
A fluid change and filter (or screen) certainly wouldn't hurt and you could get lucky.
Whatever you do, DON'T put in any "magic" transmission "tune up". If someone at Jiffy Lube or your local service station suggests it in all good faith, or tries to do it as part of a service, knock the can out of their hand and ask them to step away from the transmission in a loud clear voice.
This morning the clutch temperature light started flashing. Then the engine stoped andi could not get it going.
I took it to my local garage and a fuse had blown.
Fuse number 2 inside the car (ignition system fuse.
My car is now running. But the clutch temperature light is still flashing (no it is not beeping).
Is there anybody who could give me an idea of what might be wrong with my car.
please email me at arthur_beer@hotmail.com
thanks 4 anybody how can help me.
You might want to get it looked at by someone who REALLY knows these.
Good luck.I hope that's all your car needs.
But any 16 year old tranny may have seen better days or is this already a remanned unit?
Lexus LS400 are the tranny champs as we have many customers with +250,000 [a few with 300k] miles using fully synthetic Toyota T4 ATF and frequent flushes.
Just change the ATF when it loses the bright sparkling red color and goes to washed out reddish/clear. All ATF have temperature sensitive red dyes to warn you!
Knowing about the 6th Gen tranny issues, I've been draining/refilling the tranny fluid every 15-20K and have only used the Honda ATF-Z1 since this Accord first rolled off the dealers lot new in December of 2000.
Most of my miles are interstate cruising @70mph on mostly flat terrain.
At 112K my tranny started to leak from the axle seals during an unusual extended cold snap for our area. This fluid had been drained/refilled at 101K previously and at that time the undercarriage was bone dry and no shifting issues were present.
I immediately drained the fluid and to my shock it was full of metal. Almost immediatedly thereafter, I started noticing shifting irregularities and it threw P1751 (2-3 shift malfunction) and P0740 (TCC lockup failure) codes. Thanks for the codes Autozone.
I brought it to the local Cottman for the free inspection and they confirmed my fear, worn carrier bearings in the differential and metal through out the transmission. BTW, you need to unweight the front wheels in order to test for this condition. They quoted $2500 for a repair price.
I called Honda and explained my situation. Because I was outside of the 100K extension I didn't expect much, but thought it would be worth a try. The end result was a Honda supplied remanufactured unit and installation for less than 1/3 of what the dealers normally charge and much less expensive than having Cottman repair the old one.
I'm disappointed that this tranny failed at this mileage, especially considering the excellent maintenance and the easy (cruising) miles. But I'm also encouraged that Honda seems to believe their product shouldn't fail shortly after the 100K mark and is willing to discount the repair.
The moral to this story is if you have a 6th Gen auto, you need to have the dealer do an inspection of the differential bearings before you pass the 100K extended warranty limit, even if you experience no transmission issues.
Thansk
I work with the largest independent repairer of Lexus and Infinfinti [only brands we work on] between 2 shops we have 8 technicans and our computer records show in excess of 5,000 customers in ATL since 1995.
Toyota T4 is the synthetic ATF used in Lexus models.
Most older tranny except Lexus RWD are pretty well done just after 100,000 miles. The Q45 versions after 1993 are now lasting 200,000 miles with coolers and frequent flushing some of the LexusV8 versions are seeing 250-300,000 miles.
The whole story sounds a bit off, so I'd get someone else to look at it when you have the time, if you are curious. If it's cracked it would leak more. Has anyone tried to just seal the plug or replace it?
I have some more information. I had the car raised and transmission drain plug opened. The crack runs about 1/4th the distance into the threads. As the nut is tightened, the crack seems to open up and become more visible. My feeling is that it will only get worst with time. The mechanic has no solution except to replace the transmission. The crack at the moment is not large/deep enough to cause excessive leakage.