By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
After some time Speedo meter will be working but the problem still remains with the indicators, Can some one help me what will be the problem.
If your car is bucking, it's probably too late to save the transmission. I went to Aamco and paid $2200 for a rebuilt. Honda wanted $5,000 for a reman.
I've been away for some time but I'm back with a new car and a new problem. Back in msg #710 or so I had a 2001 Passat, now I have a 2002 GLX 4mo/Tip.
I took the car to the dealership and they told me at the 20k check that it was approx 3/4 qrt low on fluid. Since the trany is sealed at the factory and not serviced by the dealer, I can only believe I've driven 20k with low fluid.
My question is this: Should I be worried that it's now slipping and the fluid was low or is this no big deal??
Thanks for any info!
-Fran
In any case, I would install the tranny cooler, even if you need a new tranny. The new one will need it as well...
G.
I suggest you get rid of the car now before you go through the same problems with Honda that I encountered.
A friend at work owns a Porsche, the tranny failed on that, should he run to the nearest Mercedes dealership.
I know you are upset with your Honda experience, but dont tell people to sell theirs because your luck wasnt there!
I've had Honda automatics since 1992 and never had any problems with the cars. That's more than I can say of the Subarus, Toyotas, and Chrysler products I've owned. It also doesn't mean that Honda's will never have any problems.
What's the point of dwelling on one person's transmission problem when they've already traded in the car?
And the poor soul with the '96 who started this subthread has had problems out on the highway, not in town, so it may well be that he's having cooling-system problems beyond the few rows of the radiator devoted to the transmission - another reason to pull that code.
Any other folks out there with experience on this matter?
Anyone care to buy a gently used '02 Passat 4mo??
NEVER, Never buy a lux import [Japanese or European/British] without a truly qualified technican having examined everything for 2-3 hours.
The problem is all parts are from ther dealer, no domestic aftermarket parts for price competition thus things cost double or triple to repair.
Almost all early 90 lux imports [mostly Japanese and Bmw/MB] we see for [prebuy]inspection need $3,000-$10,000 worth of repair work to get even near new performance condition.
A tranny replacement with a rebuild will be $3,000 or more, AC $2,000-$3,000, suspension $1,000-$3,000, engine work?
A 14 year old car? You better knoww what you are doing! But if you pay $2,000 and spend another $5,000 to get them right...
This car is risky, and not of a great reputation, so be careful.
What a pity Range Rover's reputation has gone down the tubes! They just didn't keep up with the competition in most areas, and particularly in reliability.
I remember the old Land Rover of 20-odd years ago. It used to be the best regarded off-road vehicle everywhere in the world.
The fix for this problem: either to manufacture the parts to tighter tolerances, or properly match the parts to avoid the worst case. This is commonly done when manufacturing components such as diesel injection pumps. Bosh injection pump part tolerances are so tight that pistons must be hand matched to the injection pump cylinders to provide proper performance and durability. GM will do nothing of the kind with their driveline parts becuase this would greatly slow down their production.
Personally, a 1990 Range Rover with some problems is a car that wouldn't be easy to give away. Buyers are shy of the possible expenses involved, which can be formidable.
Yes, there's a warranty. I'm not paying for the repair or the rental. There was a warranty on the 2001 I had as well when VWA bought me out over pretty much the same issue. So I bought a 2002 so as not to lose money on the deal.
I think I'm just sick to death of seeing the Service Reps at the dealership - although they are VERY nice. It has become emabarrasing to be greeted by name when I walk in. I bought the 'top of the line' expecting to have carefree driving; and this time it's been great for 20k miles.
Forgive my rant...
-Fran
Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
2003 and Prior Light Duty Trucks
with 4L60E or 4L65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year as well as information about 3-2 downshift. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
Secondly, all to often problems are the result of a mechanics work or lack of and not just defects.
So what is the officially approved fluid for this transmission? I saw an earlier post, someone claiming Ford now says to replace Mercon with Mercon V.
I rebuilt a 86 AXOD and you should not be intimidated to rebuild. Yes there are a lot of parts, and being careful in laying them out as you clean is paramount. I did it in my car port and after the initial cleaning, just closely inspected for contamination upon assembly. The one tool I would recommend getting is the compressor for opening up the clutch packs. I suspect you could find one for under $50. Other than common tools such as sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, & drill bits I only needed a set of feeler gauges, an o-ring pick, and a multi-meter to read switch continuity. If double checking your work, you might want a pressure gauge to check the pressures in the tranny via the external threaded plugs. Other than the standard rebuild kits, I needed one accumulator spring and the low gear band. I may have replaced the overdrive band as well. I remember I had to by an updated part through Ford. I paid a local shop to pull it and re-install and bring it to my car port a few miles away for $250. Total cost to me was a little over $500 including ATSG manuals. I was on pins and needles double checking every step and I think the shop cracked the radiator end tank near the top and didn't discover that for a couple of months, but bet there would have been more damage by most shops and know they all would have denied responsibility unless you caught them in the act. Result: A transmission that performed flawlessly still four years later. No parts not put in quite right that go after the warranty or they say is a new problem or that rough shift, slip, etc, etc is nothing to worry about. And I saved $1200 over the cheapest estimate. They always add what they call hard parts and can easily be another $1000.
Also have noted after decel through a turn, and mild acceleration will have the car in 3rd, torque locked almost chugging at 1000RPM. Using a slow but steady push on the accelerator, after some distance, it will pop out of lock and 3rd simultaneously. There are no codes in the computer, but it also seems to be about 2MPG low.
Does anyone have the proper test shift speeds for accel and decel? Fluid flushed and pan wasn't inordinate for the mileage. Used Mercon.
Any suggestions?
This should be an easy one for anyone who is familiar with transmissions (not me). I have a 95 Ford F150 with an auto trans and 160,000 miles. I let it sit for two months. Now, I almost have to help it shift by over-reving the engine then backing off the gas. I checked the fluid and it seemed a tad over filled. Anyone have an idea of what the problem is?
I would like to think the transmission is designed for this but I wonder just what kind of abuse I am giving it everyday? Should I expect early transmission trouble or should I be okay?
The car is a 98 LeSabre with 65e transmission?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
tnx
e
If it does have to be rebuilt-found a guy who will rebuild them in my neck of the woods for around $1500 replacing almost all of the wear parts-turned out all that was wrong with mine was a speed sensor.
You should be getting a cel-check engine light-can get it read for free at a Autozone store.
If anyone has ANY suggestions/comments, please post them. Thanks.
Also on today's engines, water leaks are hard to spot and sometimes only occur when the engine is very warm--so you can't easily observe it. A pint of water every 5 days is only a couple shotglasses a day. You might not see it.
Do you notice any white smoke (steam) from the tailpipe? Are your floors ever wet? Do you notice any funny smells inside the car?
My wife wants me to go to a mechanic and ask first if the transmission is going, and second is there something to do to prevent it from going. To me, the answer is very likely to be yes and no, respectively. They'll want to rebuilt it, which will cost (I have no real idea) $2000-$3000? (Any guess for that make an model?) It would be painful though possible to afford a new transmission at this point, and so I'm inclined to drive it until it dies and then decide whether to fix it. I'm letting my wife drive the Honda if she wants in the meantime (she worries that the Olds might fail suddenly and completely--is that likely?). It seems to me like the Olds might possibly go years in this way and still be driveable.
This car is probably worth $1000 or less at this point. Is it worth pouring more money into it? Or when the transmission dies should I buy another car. I actually like the Olds because it has great headroom, legroom, and trunkspace. The seats are still nice in a cushy sofa kind of way. But perhaps the engine, even though it seems fine, is about to go too. Who knows? Should I get a compression test to see how the engine is? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I would like, if possible, to get to 150k and have it last 3 to 4 more years. Thanks.
Large Buicks/Olds before 1992 changes. Some were engine driveability
problems. Some were motor mounts.
A lady I work with had one. You might find a knowledgeable repair shop
or dealer to ask the questions and diagnose which you have.
I believe my dealer told the lady her problem was the transmission and it
might go a long time. It would cost her $1500 to repair it then and $1500
to repair it later if it does go out completely.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It would, in my opinion be false economy to repair that transmission.
Today's shop prices are staggering!
Suggest you take it to another dealer and have them evaluate it.
According to Honda's Owner Link, it indicates the '00-'01 V6 tranny's are covered. I seem to remember that it used to also include '98-'99 model years with the V6. They excluded the '02's though (my year) which is concerning considering I do not like the way mine is shifting between 1&2 and do not like it even more when it downshifts from 2 to 1. Having it looked at on the next service visit.
You should have access to the owner link for your year. Perhaps it's addressed differently on your account.
Also, check old messages on this page. I'm almost positive I recall reading other '98-'99 owners getting the extended warranty.
Good luck.