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Again owners allow 13,000,000 transmissions to fail prematurely each year, obviously with the average car on the road being 8 years old....the failure rates for the average car are much much higher than those for 1,2,3 years covered by warranty and some now have up to 7 years warranty.
CVT are failing in record numbers [so don't necessarily count on this technology to extend life beyond 8 years!
The ones to have in a few years will be the ZF 6 speed conventional AT.....or the old Lexus 4 speed, GM 4 speed.......even my Q45 tranny lasted 174k and many 94 and later are getting 250k and 9 years.
What is the point of taking action when its too late,the manufacture can set the sensor too any setting it deems necessary.
Think of your engine temp gauge. By the time a modern alloy engine has registered "HOT" on the gauge, it's often already toast. You probably would not tolerate engine shut-downs at 200 degrees.
Manufacturers all design [test] tranny for x number of shifts at y average torque at 176F ATF temperature.
Well documented test of ATF show when and how it loses specifications vs number of hours vs average temperature.
After all the manufctures have no interest in over designing something which will greatly exceed the warranty period [unless they are building a reputation -Lexus, Infiniti, maybe GM]
OBD2 is very fussy about coolant temperature! Not to mention knock sensors which are only rated at 300F maximum and typically reach 50F higher than coolant because of being bolted to head in valley with reduce air flow!
Most don't realize that the temperature [coolant temp] sensor for the inside gauge is designed to react slow and very inaccurately until it is too late!
The reason I am suggesting caution is that it is not unheard of for a franchise trans. shop to quote you a low price for a seal job, only to either a) suggest other services such as flush, filter kit, etc) or b) find "other problems", such as "oh, your front seal is leaking because the blah blah is worn badly, so we need to blah, blah for $1,200.
Your transmission is now out and on the floor, so what options do you have here?
Shop around but don't only shop price.
You might try a fluid change to a synthetic a/t fluid if the warranty permits. Either a seal or some part in the valve body (hydraulic labyrinth) isn't too happy, but it could run a long time this way.
Sonnax offers 3 different parts for the code 1870 on the 4L60E model. The following is a list of them:
* TCC Regulator Valve Kit Part # 77754-04k for 1998 up, and 77754-03k for the 93-97 years.
* TCC Apply Valve Part # 77805-k for the Non- PWM, and 77805e-k for the PWM only.
* Actuator Feed Limit Valve Kit part# 77754-09k which requires a reamer kit #77754-TL
I have a 98 Explorer (102k miles) with the 5R55E tranny. The previous owner never had an auxiliary tranny cooler because they said they never towed with it. I want to buy a decent auxiliary cooler but don't know what is a good cooler. I want to make this transmission see 150k+ miles because its not a cheap one to replace.
Some of the kits I have seen have the "splice kits" that tap the tranny lines where they meet the radiator. Are these sufficient or do I need something better? I have also heard that I should order the factory tranny lines with the taps for the auxiliary cooler already in them. Any opinions on this?
Thanks for the help
It starts with first gear and changed into 2nd when the car reaches 15 mph but nothing happens after that and when it reahes 40, the engine revs up but the car does not accelerate...it seems as if it is on neutral...
Do I have to replace the whole transmission and if I do, how much life will the car have? Is there any alternatives short of replacing the transmission and/or being stuck in local/within 20 sq. miles of my home because the car won't get onto the highway?
If it's the cable type, might have a problem. Check the cable attachment at the engine throttle body. It's held in place by a nylon bushing which eventually cracks and falls out, disconnecting the cable. If the car's been driven any distance with the cable disconnected there's probably internal trans damage due to no line pressure increase as the throttle opens and more torque load is placed on the trans.
If the linkage is in place, adjusted and working properly, then either direct clutch failure or damaged direct input shaft/converter drive hub failure. Either requires trans overhaul.
Have any of you had a similar problem?
One transmission shop is telling me it may cost $1800 to fix. Does that make any sense?
What do rebuilt transmissions cost?
If the tranny requires a rebuild, $1800 isn't out of the ordinary.
We are willing to try this one more time, but ready to pursue the Lemon Law if it happens again. The syndrome that the car goes into is dangerous and could be deadly if it happens on say a freeway entrance ramp. We have not been impressed with the service of Mini or the dealership.
Has anyone heard of this problem happening with any other car?
Sincerely Frustrated,
Tony D
No suggestions from Auburn in the Honda forum? He's a walking Honda encyclopedia.
Thanks Mr. Shiftright for your guess. Can cv joints be changed at home by an average do it your selfer? I would like my son to learn with me if possible.
If you thought you had this figured out, let me add something else. After the car has been driven just a few minutes with everything heated up, all atx shifts occure promptly and quickly. You'd never know that there was any problem at all. This has me confused. My wife is afraid to drive the car for fear that the atx will die and leave her stranded (without a cell phone).
Thanks in advance for you input from a new member to the board.
G.
Follow the shifter cable to the lever it's attached to at the transaxle. There's another shorter, upper lever there for the throttle valve (tv) cable. It's rod is inside the manual shift linkage tube. They're bad for seizing together. Make sure the tv lever moves smoothly, without bind, throughout it's range of travel.
If ok, it probably has worn front clutch seals and you're into an overhaul. An oil pressure test will verify.
Question-
if this is a communication problem, as Windowphobe6 suggests, could a computer or electrical fix solve the problem without opening up the transmission and getting a big repair bill. Would a computer problem be cheaper to fix than $1800?
If they have to open the transmission for a 2K bill, I'll probably donate the car.
What's wrong with having the transmission flushed? I'm thinking about having it done on my '99 Olds Intrigue. The service advisor said it will remove all of the fluid, as opposed to a partial replacement of fluid with the drain and refill method. Anyways, they want $150 to flush the system and $125 to drop the pan, replace the filter, and refill the tranny fluid. The price difference isn't too great. Which one is best? I have 50K miles, by the way.
Then the flush will exchange the heat destroyed ATF [it has a temperature sensitive dye to warn you] when the sparkling red turns washed out slightly red.......tan/brown/black is death!
All depends on how long you want the tranny to last as it is possible for them to go 250,000-300,000 miles with good ATF change habits.
Assuming the above, what do you guys think the life expectancy of my transmission might be? My car is a Maxima, if that matters.
Thanks!