So does that mean that the tranny is about to go out? It shifts fine so far, but the fluid is black, even after 2 transmission fluid change in the past 4 month. What should I do? Is that normal or not for that transmission?
is a spring loaded piece of metal that drops into the castle teeth of the output shaft to lock the transmission. Pretty low tech but can be damaged by shift adjustment or throwing it into park while there is still movement of the vehicle.
Black fluid isn't normal for any automatic trans and is almost always an indication of a failed clutch or band (your doesn't have any bands, just clutches). I'd recommend a fluid flush which replaces almost all the fluid, rather than just changing the fluid, to purge the torque converter of any old fluid which could be contaminating the new fill. Also, have the tech hook up a scan tool and check each clutch volume index (CVI). That might indicate which clutch piston is overstroking due to worn discs. If all appears normal, the torque converter clutch might be slipping and burning the fluid.
Our 2000 Daewoo Nubira with GM 4T40E transmission has accumulated only 8000 miles over 3 years of driving. Do we need to have the transmission fluid replaced in the near future or can we wait few more years? Comments from Alcan or other experts will be appreciated.
I'm not a pro, just an amateur with lots of years... Since you said GM tranny,.... My 98 LeSabre I changed trans fluid at 60K. At 80K I have a stickiness in the torque converter lockup control valve. My service manager asked around and sticks with his original conclusion. I should have changed the fluid earlier, and the fluid has dropped some sediment or shellac on things causing the variation in the engine speed when the converter is locked up (it has a slip rate built in to cushion engine vibrations -- it never locks up 100%, just 98% or so and less when loaded or accelerating).
I'd change it every three years at least, especially if you do it yourself.
I spoke with a transmission shop specialist and he agreed with me that he sees a lot of Windstars and Taurus come in his shop but his explanation was that this van can be driven around town forever and the transmission will never break down, until you take it out on the highway and drive it at 70 or 80mph for couple of hours. He said that some part inside the tranny( can't remeber what he called it) doesn't get exercised enough if the car is always driven in town but when u take it out on the highway, that part gets so hot and it melts and when u go to slow down to get off the exit or whatever, the transmission doesn't go anywhere. So my advice is to drive the van on the highway for extended periods periodically to prevent that from happening. I guess this part needs to be exercised often so it doesn't break down, that's why he said that it will drive in town forever without failing. he sees it mostly in lower mileage engines. I hope this didn't confuse anyone
I spoke with the same transmission shop about he fluid turning black. He said that the transmission is not getting cooled correctly, there could be a blockage in the radiator or inside the tranny itself, therefore the fluid is getting cooked and turning black. but keep the opinions coming, I take them all in consideration
>>What is ATF+4? I have 2003 Toyota Corolla LE, 4 speed Automatic Transmission, in the manual, says, I must use Toyota ATF Type T-IV.Is ATF +4 equal to Toyota ATF type T-IV?
jsleesi,
ATF+4 is the latest of the ATF transmission fluid series used specifically on Chrysler products, and replaces earlier versions (ATF+ 1, 2, & 3).
The main differences between Mercon and ATF+ is the addition of a friction modifier, the use of non-permanent dye and special anti-oxidation stabilizers. In ATF+4, the fluid is a petroleum/synthetic blend.
Although I've been told ATF+ has been used in Ford trucks to reduce torque converter shudder, I would not recommend using it in anything but Chrysler cars and trucks.
I've recently switched from a manual trans vehicle to an auto, and old habits die hard. I used to always shift into neutral at stops of any length, and take my foot off the clutch. Also, I'd shift out of gear and coast up to stop lights and signs if I saw them far enough ahead.
Maybe because of this history, I find it difficult to feel comfortable keeping my foot on the brake for longer lights, while the engine and auto trans are trying to creep me ahead. My question for the experts here (and those who just have an opinion!) is whether it's better or worse to kick the auto transmission in neutral for longer stops at lights, and whether it's a good idea to coast up to lights in neutral.
BTW, I apologize if this is old hat to some. I searched a bunch of areas for this topic before I posted, but didn't come up with much.
Every time an automatic transmission is shifted from neutral into gear, a multiple disc clutch pack and/or band is applied. The friction material of the clutch or band wears slightly every time it's engaged, so repeated shifting to neutral then back into gear is actually increasing the wear rate.
from drive at long lights helps to modulate the heat in an auto transmission somewhat. And, that since heat is the primary enemy of transmission fluid, that doing that helps to preserve the tranny.
I believe I read that in the book "Drive it Forever". I also believe the author stated that this was especially true during hot weather conditions. So, essentially, the author's opinion/believeth was that particularly on hot days shift into neutral at stops of over a minute. He also stated you should turn off your A/C while stopped also. Of course, who would want to not have the A/C on if it was 100 degrees outside?? Got to be a die hard car preservationist for that one.
While what you are repeating may very well be true as we all know heat is an enemy of transmission fluid, I agree with alcan that the unnecessary shifting will cause more wear. These units are designed to shift only so many times before they are expected to break. Every shift is one shift closer to a rebuild.
most cars will get hotter than with a/c on,with a/c off the cooling fan will not run until the temp is over 220*F and with a/c on the fan runs all the time under 40 mph.
I stated I read it in the book "Drive it Forever." I can't remember the guy's name who wrote it now. I'm sure a quick Google search would turn that up.
Whether either of those two statements by that author are true, I have no idea. I was just throwing it out there.
I always felt that having good fluid in the trans extended its life more than avoiding the neutral to drive engagement, so I shift into neutral when hot days and slow driving are heating up the transmission by not moving the fluid through the cooler at a normal rate of speed.
For the same reason I use 3 instead of 4th for hot days driving when engine speed is low, i.e., 50 or 55 and lower mph in low speed traffic. The service manager told me with my first four speed auto that they had more trouble with break downs due to the low speed not circulating the fluid as fast and the transmission ran hotter.
Why don't we just invest in an external Transmission cooler. Thay're small in size, inexpensive and easy to install. I highly recommend it if you have room to install it. it's probably the best money you can invest in your tranny beside the normal scheduled maintenance.
Study police cars and taxi packages and you will find factory installed larger radiator, larger external power steering cooler, external tranny cooler, and in many cases an external differential cooler. Check some mileages in NYC taxi fleet.....300-400k.
Check and think about why large Mercedes and BMW have 40% more coolant, 30% more oil and 35% more transmision fluid capacity along with lots of extra coolers than the average US V6 or V8 respectively.
>Check and think about why large Mercedes and BMW have 40% more coolant, 30% more oil and 35% more transmision fluid capacity along with lots of extra coolers than the average US V6 or V8 respectively.<
MB & BMW are designed to run hours on end at 120 MPH +,hard to do in the US.
Recently my 2000 Chevy Blazer automatic transmission developed a metallic noise while shifting in the low gears. I brought the car into a transmissions specialist. The transmissions needed to be rebuilt as well as the transfer case. The vehicle is "covered" under a Wynn's extended warranty I bought when I purchased the car. The Wynn's adjuster called into look at the car would cover the transmission but not the transfer case though it is listed in the contract as a covered inclusion. is reasoning: I should have known to bring in the car earlier than I did. When I called Wynn's I was scolded for not bringing the car in sooner. I had to pay the $1,700 repair bill for the transfer case in order to get my car back. Obviously, Wynn's is not to be trusted and apparently will not fulfill its contractural agreement.
Does anyone have an idea for me to further pusue this issue?
You might try your state's attorney general office. File a complain. They could be blocked from doing business in your state if the office has complaints and does their job. But insurance and banks usually run things in a state -- at least Ohio. So don't expect any rules to be applied to them.
You can talk to an attorney. Maybe one that specializes in lemon law and auto-related cases...
I just purchased a 2003 Z71 4x4 and have noticed a clunking sound when the A/T is shifting from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 2nd at low speeds, turns, and inclines. The clunk makes the truck feel like there slop between the transmission and the rear end. The truck now has 570 miles and was manufactured 02/03, maybe there's a TSB that has been released but I'm not sure. Can anyone tell me if this is characteristic of the truck or possibly a problem or a TSB fix?
My last three GM trucks all did the same thing. My 96 Z-71 was the worst. It would 2-3 clunk so bad that the whole truck would shake. After 4 different service departments I came to one here in NE Ohio. The service manager was a trans mechanic. He took my truck for 10 days and tore into it. I saw it- trans out of the truck in pieces- rear end taken down he did it all. In the end it is GM and their part tolerancing for powertrain components. When parts that are manufactured at their extream end of their design tolerancing and that combination comes together you have the worst case such as my 96 Z-71. All GM trucks have a amount of 2-3 clunk- my 96 was worst case. GM did nothing. I sold the 96 in 2000 and it now has 158K miles on it- still clunks but no "wont drive" problems. My 00 also did it, but you really had to listen for it. I just picked up a 03 Z71, LT and it does it to. The only thing that I found that slightly reduces the noise is to put a specific type of grease on the driveshaft spline. I have the GM part number at home and will post it later if you want it. If it is like most dealerships they will tell you "they all do that" and it "is normal". SUCKS but what are you going to do. Dont know if the lemon law would apply or not.
The TSB that is out their is about Park to drive- drive to reverse- reverse to drive clunking. ALL my 4X4 trucks did this too. I heard that there is a TSB for this complaint (i have not seen it) and it says that this is normal and not a driveability issue. Hope this helps. So far I love my 03...slight clunk and all.
No matter what you should take it in for service and have the problem documented.
I really appreciate your response, I took the the truck to the dealer today and the shop foreman test drove and came to the conclusion of "that's the way they are". He did apply the new software for the TCM and ECM which seemed to help. The latest software helps soften the shift to help eliminate the clunking. We'll see if it helps.. I would like the GM part number for the grease. Once again thanks now I will be able to sleep knowing there's not major tranny problems.
I do not know what all was fixed in the latest software update but it is 70% better.... I still have a clunk but no where near as severe as before the software update. I went to a Gwinnett Place Chevy formally Hendrick in Duluth, GA just north of Atlanta and they told me to take it to the dealer I purchased the truck from (very rude). I purchased the truck from Bill heard Chevy in Buford, GA. The shop foreman test drove the truck with me and new exactly the problems I was experiencing without me duplicating them on the test drive. He stated that it is a known issue and that GM is working on a possible fix. He applied the latest software update with the Tech2 and the truck is 70% better. The clunk is still there but not as severe. I think I can now live with the truck with the current "minimal clunking". I'm still going to apply the grease to the spline. My suggestion is to anyone who has an 03 model year be sure you have the dealer apply the latest software to ECM and TCM. Again thanks for the information you provided it help tremendously. Chris with the hard clanky tranny......
ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS MIGHT MEAN? Recently my 2001 NISSAN SENTRA [27,000 mi] has developed a strange sensation in the clutch pedal. Sometimes when shifting it feels weird---like there's some friction in the works. And sometimes it seems like more than that---like I'm somehow feeling some vibration from the tranny via the pedal. Everything else is working properly; there's just that strange vibration transference. Any ideas? I've never felt anything quite like it.
my 91 cougar is supposed to use mercon ATF.i see in the stores bottles labeled mercon and merconV.are these the same?i also have several bottles of what is labeled dexron 3/mercon is this acceptable to use in my vehicle?
Ive had the clunk in my z71 since 2300 Miles Ive had it to Tom Bannon Chevy 4 times for this problem. All 4 times they said it was normal. But I have owned a few Chevys and this is the first time Ive experienced this problem. The clunk is extremely bad on take off in my truck as well as the 3-2 and 2-3 shifts. I really beleive something needs to be done. Im almost out of warrenty. Guess I can try the grease!
That stated that you shouldn't use Mercon V in years earlier than 98 (Explorers an a couple others started in 97). The reason they gave was that the clutch mateial could delaminate because of some chemical compatability in Mercon V. There was also a TB that V could be used in some earlier versions/years to solve a shudder problem. Most likely the newer clutch material was introduced earlier than 97. Unless this transmission has been recently rebuilt, I would stay away from V to be safe. All the other Mercon fluids should be compatable.
I have seen it mentioned that vehicles prior to '96 are not designed for this type of fluid and it's additives.
My daughter has a 1998 Accord EX automatic with 134000 miles on it. The transmission fluid was changed at the dealer at 120000 miles. She now has a bucking problem at certain times (cold) and it also jumps ahead at times. I checked the fluid level and it was a little over full. Can someone tell me if they know what is wrong and how to correct it?
I recently purchased a used 1998 Tacoma 4X4 with an automatic and it has about 82,000 miles on it. Last Friday, on the way home from work, I was doing around 65MPH, all of the sudden, it lost it's gear, just like you shift from 'D' to 'N'. Pulled over the side, shifted from 'D' to 'N' and back to 'D', it ran fine. This happened 3 times on the trip home that day. I drove the truck straight to the transmission clinic (garage) and had the tranmission checked which found no problems (no returned codes). Is any one ever experienced this weird problem?
Does it only happen when cold-if so has the gas mileage decreased a bit-say from 30 mpg on highway to 27 or so-if so it could be running too rich and missing a bit when cold. A bad O2 sensor can do this. Any CEL (check engine light) codes appear?
Don't think it is a tranny problem-but that's my opinion.
Lately I am seeing the O/D OFF light blinking when I drive for more than 60 miles at a streach. But when I trun off and start the engine, it won't show up. I took it to the dealer and he told me that I have to change the transmission which will cost me around $3000. Any help to fix this problem is greatly appreciated.
Is your 626 a 4-cylinder? Probably. If so, the O/D blinking is the computer telling you something is going south with the tranny. The tranny on the 626/4L is a Ford CD4E, which, if you browse through the "626 Troubles" topic, is pretty crappy. These trannys are very succeptible to heat, and if not babied will fail sooner or later (even if babied...).
Other questions: How many miles on your 626? How many times have you serviced the tranny? Usually, people that wants to extend the life of these miserable slushboxes do services every 15K miles, plus install a transmission cooler.
So, milk it while you can, but don't plan on the thing lasting you past this Fall. It could be something simple, like a faulty sensor, but I doubt it. Sorry!
It is a 4 cyl and it has 93000 miles on it. I am not sure whether I should take it to the dealer or not. Will taking it to AAMCO make a difference. A service on done on the transmission roughly on 80K miles and at that time the transmission fluid was flushed.
I just today took my brand new 2003 "Clunkrolet" with 7000 miles on it in to the dealer for the second time for the clunking problem. The first time they used the "magical special grease" which lasted about a week before the clunking returned. The standard response is it's "operating to the manufacturers specs, they all do that and it's normal." Normal my [non-permissible content removed]. Fords and Dodges don't go clunking around the roads like my Silverado does. It's an obvious engineering problem. I read where one fix was a nickel plated slip yoke and I mentioned that to the service guy today and he said the 03's already had those on them. Well, then that wasn't a fix was it? I also read where they were replacing the drive shafts. Anyway, one way or another, I want the problem resolved. I'm waiting on the dealers call as I write this to see what they are going to say. I suspect I already know their response. Someone mentioned lemon law. That might be a start. Or maybe a complaint with the Feds. I know for sure I will be calling GM's complaint line. We have been a GM family for 30 plus years. My wife drives a 2003 Buick. But I swear that after paying $32,000 for a vehicle with such a glaring problem and getting an "it's normal" excuse from GM I will sell the "clunker" and go with the 2004 Ford truck. My advise to some one thing about a Chevy/GMC truck is to think again.
We bought a 99 Accord V6 EX back in October 1998. All the oil changes and services have been done on time and at Honda dealership. Transmission failed at 97,000 miles. Although the warranty on 2000 and 2001 Accord Transmissions has been extended to 200,000 miles, Honda will not do the same on 1999 or 1998. When I asked if the Transmission in 2000 different than 1999, Honda's reply "It is a different part number". I paid $1800 to get the Honda Rebuilt Transmission put in. And now the stereo doesn't work because the five digit code that original selling dealer was suppose to give us at the time of sale (2 white cards) never gave us. They want to charge $89 for taking the stereo out and getting the serial number from stereo to get the five digit code. Dealer quotes "We delete the files after 4 years". I guess that is how long they expect your Honda to last. This is my 4th Honda and based on my experience with American Honda the LAST one. While doing my research on weather my Transmission failure was just a fluke, I came across numerous hits ( Yahoo - "Accord Transmission" )/comments from Honda Owners with Automatic Transmission failure around 90K miles. There was one instance where some one had a failed transmission around 50 K that Honda replaced free of cost. Good luck with you Honda Transmission.
Are the transmission problems mostly centered around the V6, or are the 4cyl models also problematic? What about the 2003+ models, don't they have re-designed transmissions? Hopefully the new generation won't have these issues.
I think most of the failures have been in V6 Accords/TLs/CLs, although that's not to say there haven't been problems with 4-cyl cars, just less of them. The '03s are supposed to have a redesigned 5-speed tranny but I think the jury is still out on that. Only time will tell if they are as problematic. The funny thing is there are still some people (just read some of the recent posts on the Accord Problems thread) who think the Honda transmission problem is an urban myth!
There have without a doubt been Honda transmissions with problems - just like every other car.
However, Honda Accord transmissions have been much more trouble-free than other manufacturers. You can verify that with Consumer Reports data. I've had Hondas with automatic transmissions since '94 and never had any problems.
We've had literally dozens of Hondas so I'm no Honda-basher. But I still say if their trannies were on a par with others in terms of problems, or lack of, they would not voluntarily extend the warranty to 7-years or 100,000 miles. It's one thing to offer a long warranty out of the box, but to extend it mid-stream raises one big red flag. No manufacturer would voluntarily do it if the problem is not wide-spread.
Comments
Since you said GM tranny,....
My 98 LeSabre I changed trans fluid at 60K. At 80K I have a stickiness in the torque converter lockup control valve. My service manager asked around and sticks with his original conclusion. I should have changed the fluid earlier, and the fluid has dropped some sediment or shellac on things causing the variation in the engine speed when the converter is locked up (it has a slip rate built in to cushion engine vibrations -- it never locks up 100%, just 98% or so and less when loaded or accelerating).
I'd change it every three years at least, especially if you do it yourself.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
jsleesi,
ATF+4 is the latest of the ATF transmission fluid series used specifically on Chrysler products, and replaces earlier versions (ATF+ 1, 2, & 3).
The main differences between Mercon and ATF+ is the addition of a friction modifier, the use of non-permanent dye and special anti-oxidation stabilizers. In ATF+4, the fluid is a petroleum/synthetic blend.
Although I've been told ATF+ has been used in Ford trucks to reduce torque converter shudder, I would not recommend using it in anything but Chrysler cars and trucks.
Regards,
Dusty
Seems Ford spec'ed ATF for the manual tranny and later suggested adding a Friction Modifier to the fluid.
When I changed the fluid in my 98 SVT Contour, I used a bit more than two quarts of ATF+3 in there instead and it shifts really nice now.
I'll probably change it every year now with the hard driving I'm doing. Others have been using it without drama.
TB
Maybe because of this history, I find it difficult to feel comfortable keeping my foot on the brake for longer lights, while the engine and auto trans are trying to creep me ahead. My question for the experts here (and those who just have an opinion!) is whether it's better or worse to kick the auto transmission in neutral for longer stops at lights, and whether it's a good idea to coast up to lights in neutral.
BTW, I apologize if this is old hat to some. I searched a bunch of areas for this topic before I posted, but didn't come up with much.
I believe I read that in the book "Drive it Forever". I also believe the author stated that this was especially true during hot weather conditions. So, essentially, the author's opinion/believeth was that particularly on hot days shift into neutral at stops of over a minute. He also stated you should turn off your A/C while stopped also. Of course, who would want to not have the A/C on if it was 100 degrees outside?? Got to be a die hard car preservationist for that one.
Whether either of those two statements by that author are true, I have no idea. I was just throwing it out there.
For the same reason I use 3 instead of 4th for hot days driving when engine speed is low, i.e., 50 or 55 and lower mph in low speed traffic. The service manager told me with my first four speed auto that they had more trouble with break downs due to the low speed not circulating the fluid as fast and the transmission ran hotter.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Check some mileages in NYC taxi fleet.....300-400k.
Check and think about why large Mercedes and BMW have 40% more coolant, 30% more oil and 35% more transmision fluid capacity along with lots of extra coolers than the average US V6 or V8 respectively.
MB & BMW are designed to run hours on end at 120 MPH +,hard to do in the US.
The Wynn's adjuster called into look at the car would cover the transmission but not the transfer case though it is listed in the contract as a covered inclusion. is reasoning: I should have known to bring in the car earlier than I did. When I called Wynn's I was scolded for not bringing the car in sooner. I had to pay the $1,700 repair bill for the transfer case in order to get my car back.
Obviously, Wynn's is not to be trusted and apparently will not fulfill its contractural agreement.
Does anyone have an idea for me to further pusue this issue?
You can talk to an attorney. Maybe one that specializes in lemon law and auto-related cases...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The TSB that is out their is about Park to drive- drive to reverse- reverse to drive clunking. ALL my 4X4 trucks did this too. I heard that there is a TSB for this complaint (i have not seen it) and it says that this is normal and not a driveability issue. Hope this helps. So far I love my 03...slight clunk and all.
No matter what you should take it in for service and have the problem documented.
Chris with the hard clanky tranny......
I have seen it mentioned that vehicles prior to '96 are not designed for this type of fluid and it's additives.
an automatic and it has about 82,000 miles on it.
Last Friday, on the way home from work, I was doing around 65MPH, all of the sudden, it lost it's gear, just like you shift from 'D' to 'N'.
Pulled over the side, shifted from 'D' to 'N' and
back to 'D', it ran fine.
This happened 3 times on the trip home that day.
I drove the truck straight to the transmission clinic (garage) and had the tranmission checked which found no problems (no returned codes).
Is any one ever experienced this weird problem?
Don't think it is a tranny problem-but that's my opinion.
Lately I am seeing the O/D OFF light blinking when I drive for more than 60 miles at a streach. But when I trun off and start the engine, it won't show up. I took it to the dealer and he told me that I have to change the transmission which will cost me around $3000. Any help to fix this problem is greatly appreciated.
Other questions: How many miles on your 626? How many times have you serviced the tranny? Usually, people that wants to extend the life of these miserable slushboxes do services every 15K miles, plus install a transmission cooler.
So, milk it while you can, but don't plan on the thing lasting you past this Fall. It could be something simple, like a faulty sensor, but I doubt it. Sorry!
G.
We have been a GM family for 30 plus years. My wife drives a 2003 Buick. But I swear that after paying $32,000 for a vehicle with such a glaring problem and getting an "it's normal" excuse from GM I will sell the "clunker" and go with the 2004 Ford truck.
My advise to some one thing about a Chevy/GMC truck is to think again.
However, Honda Accord transmissions have been much more trouble-free than other manufacturers. You can verify that with Consumer Reports data. I've had Hondas with automatic transmissions since '94 and never had any problems.