Maybe someone out there has a bit of advise to offer me. First I am a owner of a small, private hand-wash car service and detail business. I see that there is an ongoing debate on car waxes. I have used that new product 2001 and it lasted a total of two to three weeks in Indiana weather. The bottle says that one wax will last a year, but it is not the case for me. Upon it's application, it gives a high gloss shine, but of course that quickly fades with rain. I have also used Blue Coral Wax for years and it does a pretty good job for me. The only catch is that it is quite difficult and time consuming dealing with paste and it turns some trim white. Does anyone have any suggestions to offer me? Remember I am looking for the quickest to apply and/or the best results with the longest protection.
Is it advisable to purchase a buffer, or continue to wax by hand. Many customers of other business complain that the buff job that they got done left swirls in the car. I do not want to have any comments like that about my business. What do you all say?
You can get a lot of suggestions but to my knowledge there has been only one official scientific test of car waxes and that was done by Consumer Reports a few years ago. The best gloss was Meguiars Cleaner Wax. The longest lasting (and okay at gloss) was Nu Finish.
I have tried many waxes myself, including waxing several strips and testing several at the same time, and find Nu Finish will outlast them all. A coworker just told me she has had the same results.
I would like to get your opinions about a certain problem i noticed on my car. I just got a used 97 prelude and yesterday noticed that a very old bird dropping stain is present on the center of the hood. I tried using turtle waxes bug and tree sap remover but no luck. I took the car to the dealer for warranty service and questioned them about the stain today. They said that the dropping probably sat on the hood for a long time and eventually went through the clear coat and the only way to fix it is to re-paint the hood!! Please let me know if you know of any cheaper ways to get rid of it...it can be seen in sunlight at a certain angle
I own a 92 Dodge Caravan. The paint on the hood has bubbled and peeled in many places. The only other area that happened was a three inch strip above my windshield. Could this be bad paint? Would a dealership be inclined to do anything about it now? I have had several people tell me different things. Thanks.
First Thank you vivona for your suggestion on wax. And in response to the bird problem, I have yet to come in contact with a solution to our air-born friends. It should have been wiped off as soon as the previous owner saw it. I do think however that repainting the entire hood is a bit much. If it really is a large and constantly visible spot then I am sure there are places that can sand that spot out and match your current paint job, followed by a clear coat. FYI You might be surprised at how few people will actually see it any way. You might try to ask around at a few different body shops because Honda dealerships will always try to screw you over, unless there is a rare nice person working there. (I am a fellow Honda owner)
Yeah i would never take it to the dealer for the bird problem. Someone recommended trying meguirar's polish #1 and if it did not work then to take it to pro body shop and they could get it done for about 25 dollars. i will look around...thanks
I have an older car that has faded black paint on the window frames. The rest of the car is white and is in excellent condition.
I want to repaint just the black trim but don't want to go through the hassle of masking and covering the entire car to spray paint such a small area. So instead of using spray paint, I am wondering how successful using black enamel with a fine brush would be. Has anybody been able to find a brush that doesn't leave brush marks? Or have you ever repainted a small area with a brush and then successfully smoothed the brush marks by sanding and polishing the dried paint?
Just have a question for everyone here. I bought Meguirar's cleaner/wax product in addition to their polish #2. I know the polish is supposed to be put on the car before applying meguirar's carnauba wax #3. But i wanted to clean and wax the car with one application instead of buying the cleaner, polisher, and wax separately. Therefore, should i apply the cleaner/wax combo first after a wash and then the polish. Thanks for the help
I was stupid this weekend and parked my car at a movie theater in a "bad" neighborhood. Noticed this morning someone tore off my front license plate and put a 12 inch scratch on the door. Is this relatively easy for a body shop to fix? The car is a 1994 so I don't require it to look perfect, just want it to be not very noticable. By the way for you NJ people out there stay clear of the Pennsauken movie theater. Thanks.
Between weekly washing I found that my 2 month old auto had white flecks of what must be road or parking lot marker paint. It was only on the drivers side.
I was able to remove the material from painted surfaces behind the wheel wheels but not very well from black plastic bottom molding and inside thw wheel wells. Also, the material is on the side walls of the tires, a few places.
What is the best way to remove this paint fro the tires and wheel wells? The car is expensive so I want it to look its best.
I have a new Toyota pickup that has become coated in a "sprinkling" of tree sap. The place I park at work is surrounded by trees that, during the summer, coat everybodys cars with an almost invisible dotting of sap. You can't see the sap, but if the paint is wet, you can feel it. This is my first new automobile and I am scared as hell of screwing up the paint job by trying to scrub this stuff off. I've tried using a soft brush/water hose scrub with the in-line soap reservoir, but that doesn't seem to do much good. Do I need to use some type of cleaner/polisher?
I called Summit Racing about magic clay regarding white scratches on plactic bumpers that are so common these days. They said magic clay would not work and he does not know of anything that would. Since I have seen so many cars with this type of bumper, you would think there would be something out there we could all use. Please, if anyone can help, I would really appreciate the suggestions. I've tried shoe polish, lighter fluid, McGuires bumper wax, and a black felt tip pen. Personally, I wish I had a chrome bumper.
I would like to keep our family cat off of my car but am at loss for a fix. A friend told me there is a product called a ScatMat(?) that plugs into the 12v receptacle of a vehicle. Does anyone know where to purchase one of these? If not, I am open to other suggestions for keeping cats off my cars. Only humane suggestions please!
hi, my dad's windshield has little dips in the glass. this is from some sand hitting the the glass when it was really windy. The little dips are not noticeable except when the sun is at a certain angle. Anyone know how to fix this? Sorry, I know this is off topic but any info will help.
Also does anyone know of a good product that will help keep the paint on my new car from fading? It sits in the sun quite often.
I've had my new car for 2 months and would like any suggestions on waxing. I would like to go ahead and wax it, but I don't want the swirl marks in the metallic platinum paint. I have a buffer, but it definitely leaves swirl marks so I'd like to avoid that unless there is another type of buffing pad I should use. Also, I commute the Interstate often and have already noticed some little chipped spots on the front bumper from road debris and rocks that hit. Is there any suggestion for keeping that from happening. I had a "Le Bra" on an earlier car to keep the same thing from occurring, but it caused the paint to bubble on the covered area. Any suggestions on waxing and chipped spot prevention would be much appreciated.
Someone keyed my car and has a 10 inch scratch on rear door, any suggestions or product i can purchase myself and do it myself without paying big bucks for someone to fix it, the scratch is not deep but it shows, how about touch up paint ?
Hi Bigfur1, Thanks for your advice will try buff it out first, do you recommend any products i can buy that comes close to removing the scratch, i know that it cannot be removed permanantly but is there something close to that.
I have several small scratches but the one that really gets me is the deep scratch that goes all the way to the black plastic. The car and bumper are white and it really looks bad to me. Any suggestions?
try a light rubbing compund. and yes they are safe for clear coats contrary to what some people say. try a local body shop, see if their painter will do it for a couple bucks.
Before picking up a brand new black contour svt, i found several scratches and chips in the paint. the dealer is willing to fix it but this doesn't seem like enough to me (touch up work and repainting panels will lessen the value of the car. They're too deep to buff out) Right? please help with any suggestions of how I can either fix the paint without lessening the value or get my dealer to get me an undamaged car.
A cat jumped on the hood of my brand new black Maxima, which I've yet to clay and Zaino-ize (as I'm waiting for my new supply of applicator pads to arrive). Kitty left two very slight claw scars in the finish. The scratches appear white and I can sense only the slightest depth to them as I run a finger over them. My question is: What exactly am I seeing in this situation? Is the whiteness I perceive that of a scratched clearcoat? Approximately how thick is new clearcoat, anyway? For that matter, how thick is the black base coat on a car like mine?
Once again, Nu Finish is long lasting, yes, but it doesn't buff to a nice shine. I''ve larned to take Consumer's Reports with a grain of salt.
McGuire's Cleaner Wax is pretty good but it does not have the shine of Turtle Wax Emerald. After a month it beads up fine but it doesn't rain that much where I live.
I waxed strips on my hood with Nu Finish Paste, Meguiars and Turtle Wax Emerald. The Emerald stopped beading in two weeks, the Meguars in six weeks and the Nu Finish was still beading nicely at two months. So I did the whole car in Nu Finish and it looks fantastic. It is a new silver clearcoat so gloss isn't an issue. When I think it needs more shine, I'll use Meguiars, then go back to Nu Finish for durability.
The reason I did the wax test is I have found that waxes last differently on different types of paint. I had waxed my wife's car in Meguiars at the same time and the Meguiars lasted a lot longer on her car. So by doing the strips of different waxes on my car I have found what works best for it.
One interesting thing I noted about Nu Finish Paste is its ability to clean. My wife's white car will get so dirty that washing will not remove the dirt from the paint. Nu Finish will change its dirty greyed out white surface back to a shiny brilliant white. I had the same results with my 12 year old white car. Just before I traded it I Nu Finished it and it looked fantastic. In fact, my wife's car has had Meguiars on it for just five weeks it has now gotten quite dirty so I am going to Nu Finish it soon.
Been waxing my cars for 20 years, Mostly using the best avalible mequires products. Have a 1 year old Explorer Sport in White and a New Solora Pearl white. Want the perfect Finish on Your car? Wash you car with Dawn, CLAY the car, Wash again. Then Get a 12 pack and do your car with Zaino Brothers Products. http://www.zainobros.com/. You'll need Z1, Z2 for Clearcoat or Z3 for non clearcoat, Z5 swirl and light scratch remover, Z6 detailer, and Z7 car wash. Buy some applicator pads, and your ready to make your car look better than you could ever imagine. All this for about $60.00, Which gives you about 8 applications. 2 coats of the Z2 has made my pearl white Solara looks as if the paints is still wet and ready to drip off the car. Also, Live in Chicago area where the weather is brutal and I have to do the car only 3 times a year, rather than 6- 8 times with the Meguiers products. Also Lexol Cleaner and Protectant for your leather seats. Keeps them soft and clean and I have never had a leather seat crack on me yet. Traded in my 97 Accord and over hear the appraiser tell my salesman, how did he put 50,000 miles on this car without sitting in it.
Thanks for the answer about my scratch, bigfur1. New question: After doing the whole clay and Zaino treatment (probably gonna apply 2-3 coats of Z-2 over a long weekend), I'm wondering if it would be okay to use Dri-Wash 'n Glaze between monthly Z-7 washings. ( No kidding... I really only have the time and patience to wash a car about once a month)... or would I be better off using the Z-6 say once a week on a dusty, unwashed car as an alternative to the Dri-Wash? ( I guess this is basically asking what is the difference between Z-6 and Dri-Wash 'n Glaze?). I've never tried the Dri-Wash product, but it sounds like a miracle product to a lazy bum like me.
Dont dry wash ever!!!!!!. It can cause more scratches in your paint if the dirt and dust doesent come off right away. Being lazy isnt a way to take care of a car. You have to take your time or itll look like sh... well u know.
Hi guys: I just got hit in my new (6 weeks old) Eclipse GST spyder on the passenger side door and fender :-(( I need some feedback on body shops and the quality of paint finishes:
I've 2 estimates for about $2200 - one from a dealer recommended shop (a small place - the guy said that though you couldn't tell the difference, the paint job would never be as good as the factory paint - so did he mean it didn't last as long?) and another from a large, Merc/Lincoln recommended shop (who claimed to use the finest quality paint - akzo nobel sikkens(?) -and that the finish would last for ever). The Merc guy, though doesn't have the factory code for the paint and says he uses a 'color analyzer' that measures the color from dirfferent angles, while the other guy does have the code. Who do I go with? Obviously I want the car to look as good as new again. The car is new so fading isn't a problem and color matching should be easy with the factory codes. I'd appreciate any suggestions or feedback on this, thanks.
I don't know much about cars and this may be a stupid question, but I won't know unless I ask. I've read in this conference about clearcoat and metallic paint. How do I know which one I have on my car and is there one kind of wax that is good on both kinds of paint jobs? Also, as I was wiping down my car after a rainy day I found a tiny area on the hood in the back where the paint has been scraped and you can see that it's a dull blackish color against the green paint. I think it came from the dealer this way because I don't think a rock or pebble could have caused it, but I doubt the dealer would fix it for me. It's a really tiny area, but it's still such a bummer since I have had the car for only about three weeks. Anyway, my question was- will washing and waxing regularly keep that area from rusting? BTW, my car is an emerald green 99 corolla if that helps. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I was wondering if you experienced paint peiple out there could help me out. I have an unpainted 94 Accord bumper I need to paint champagne colored. How hard is it to paint by yourself if you have a spray gun. What are the steps? Where can I buy the correct colors, just the dealer or anyplace? Thanks Rob muvb14@yahoo.com
if u arent experianced in painting simply put dont do it. theres more work than there appears. I am a body tech and i hate painting because its so tough to get the conditions right.
Does anyone know the process to remove a dimple in a door panel using dry ice? I have a new (2 weeks old) Honda Civic LX. A neighbor boy (Who I could strangle, and his parents won't discipline) threw a rock at me as I was driving down the road, left a mark and dimpled the door.
Baaahh! some jerk in a parking lot hit my new pickup today. I don't know if it was a door or their front fender as they pulled into the spot next to mine. It put a dime sized chip in my paint. Right on down to the white undercoating (my truck is red.) If I could get my hands on whoever it was...
Anyway, my question is: Should I put some type of temporary touch up paint on the chip? While I plan to have it professionaly repaired, I won't be able to get that done for at least a week, as I am going on vacation. Does that area need to be sealed for the time being? Is there danger of moisture getting under the exposed paint?
I have read through this topic and not really seen a real response to using a power buffer. Am i destined for swirl marks, or is it a tool for the well trained? Also I bought a Kiwi dip & wash sowt bristled brush for washing my car, seems so far so good, easier than using a sponge but doesn't get all the tough dirt off. Anything special to use for a new car as far as a type of wash or wax for something brand new, or should I hold off on waxing it for a while and just keep to wahsing it really good and often? Thanks, plutolou
My two-month old forest green Intrigue just got its first door ding above the rear tire. Any idea what my options are in getting it taken care of. Do these things usually require repainting of the whole panel?
Paintless dent repair--great for door dings as long as no paint chips.
Always handwash your car. Power buffers can easily burn through delicate clear coats. Would not use a brush on any painted part of the car due to tendency to scratch. See Larry Renolds sp? Car Care Specialties at carcareonline.com for any and all questions about detailing your car.
Comments
I have tried many waxes myself, including waxing several strips and testing several at the same time, and find Nu Finish will outlast them all. A coworker just told me she has had the same results.
I'd give Nu Finish a try.
I would like to get your opinions about a certain problem i noticed on my car. I just got a used 97 prelude and yesterday noticed that a very old bird dropping stain is present on the center of the hood. I tried using turtle waxes bug and tree sap remover but no luck. I took the car to the dealer for warranty service and questioned them about the stain today. They said that the dropping probably sat on the hood for a long time and eventually went through the clear coat and the only way to fix it is to re-paint the hood!! Please let me know if you know of any cheaper ways to get rid of it...it can be seen in sunlight at a certain angle
thanks for the info
Good Luck
Yeah i would never take it to the dealer for the bird problem. Someone recommended trying meguirar's polish #1 and if it did not work then to take it to pro body shop and they could get it done for about 25 dollars. i will look around...thanks
I want to repaint just the black trim but don't want to go through the hassle of masking and covering the entire car to spray paint such a small area. So instead of using spray paint, I am wondering how successful using black enamel with a fine brush would be. Has anybody been able to find a brush that doesn't leave brush marks? Or have you ever repainted a small area with a brush and then successfully smoothed the brush marks by sanding and polishing the dried paint?
Just have a question for everyone here. I bought Meguirar's cleaner/wax product in addition to their polish #2. I know the polish is supposed to be put on the car before applying meguirar's carnauba wax #3. But i wanted to clean and wax the car with one application instead of buying the cleaner, polisher, and wax separately. Therefore, should i apply the cleaner/wax combo first after a wash and then the polish. Thanks for the help
I was able to remove the material from painted surfaces behind the wheel wheels but not very well from black plastic bottom molding and inside thw wheel wells. Also, the material is on the side walls of the tires, a few places.
What is the best way to remove this paint fro the tires and wheel wells? The car is expensive so I want it to look its best.
Geo430
Thanks
http://www.emrkt.com/comtrad/scram/scram.html
ScatMat and other repellants are found at:
http://www.scatmat.com/
Also does anyone know of a good product that will help keep the paint on my new car from fading? It sits in the sun quite often.
Thanks!
Thanks
Thanks for your advice will try buff it out first, do you recommend any products i can buy that comes close to removing the scratch, i know that it cannot be removed permanantly but is there something close to that.
Thanks
Thank you for your suggestion, will do.
McGuire's Cleaner Wax is pretty good but it does not have the shine of Turtle Wax Emerald. After a month it beads up fine but it doesn't rain that much where I live.
The reason I did the wax test is I have found that waxes last differently on different types of paint. I had waxed my wife's car in Meguiars at the same time and the Meguiars lasted a lot longer on her car. So by doing the strips of different waxes on my car I have found what works best for it.
One interesting thing I noted about Nu Finish Paste is its ability to clean. My wife's white car will get so dirty that washing will not remove the dirt from the paint. Nu Finish will change its dirty greyed out white surface back to a shiny brilliant white. I had the same results with my 12 year old white car. Just before I traded it I Nu Finished it and it looked fantastic. In fact, my wife's car has had Meguiars on it for just five weeks it has now gotten quite dirty so I am going to Nu Finish it soon.
Zaino Car Care Experiences
You will undoubtedly get a better response there.
Your host, Bruce
I've 2 estimates for about $2200 - one from a dealer recommended shop (a small place - the guy said that though you couldn't tell the difference, the paint job would never be as good as the factory paint - so did he mean it didn't last as long?) and another from a large, Merc/Lincoln recommended shop (who claimed to use the finest quality paint - akzo nobel sikkens(?) -and that the finish would last for ever). The Merc guy, though doesn't have the factory code for the paint and says he uses a 'color analyzer' that measures the color from dirfferent angles, while the other guy does have the code. Who do I go with? Obviously I want the car to look as good as new again. The car is new so fading isn't a problem and color matching should be easy with the factory codes. I'd appreciate any suggestions or feedback on this, thanks.
Thanks
Rob
muvb14@yahoo.com
(2 weeks old) Honda Civic LX. A neighbor boy
(Who I could strangle, and his parents won't discipline) threw a rock at me as I was driving down the road, left a mark and dimpled the
door.
Thanks in advance.
Anyway, my question is: Should I put some type of temporary touch up paint on the chip? While I plan to have it professionaly repaired, I won't be able to get that done for at least a week, as I am going on vacation. Does that area need to be sealed for the time being? Is there danger of moisture getting under the exposed paint?
Thanks
Lee
Also I bought a Kiwi dip & wash sowt bristled brush for washing my car, seems so far so good, easier than using a sponge but doesn't get all the tough dirt off.
Anything special to use for a new car as far as a type of wash or wax for something brand new, or should I hold off on waxing it for a while and just keep to wahsing it really good and often?
Thanks, plutolou
Thanks
Always handwash your car. Power buffers can easily burn through delicate clear coats. Would not use a brush on any painted part of the car due to tendency to scratch. See Larry Renolds sp? Car Care Specialties at carcareonline.com for any and all questions about detailing your car.