Paint and Body Care

klin

thinking of buying the Langka for paint chip repair.

Has anyone tried it? Need opinion.

klin

Hello,

I've been using nail polish remover to remove excess touch-up paint.

Then I see this Langka stuff. How good is it vs. nail polish remover (cheap, just $2 vs $20+ for Langka).

Thanks,
KK

mxylplik2

After getting my car scratched up a bit with those automated car washes, I am going to hand wash my car during the winter. I plan to use a Boar's hair brush attached to a stick and go to those self serve car washes where you can use their water sprayer. I plan to wash when the temperature is no less than a few degrees below freezing. Do you guys have any experiences / suggestions when I am washing at this temperature?



Ed
edandty@msn.com

rs_petty

Have never thought of using nail polish remover - how does it work? Results?

rs_petty

Ed,
Make sure you dry the rubber around your doors as best as possible. I've had them freeze. You also may want to lubricate your door locks after washing to keep them from freezing. Try to remove as much of the dirt from the paint as possible before using the brush. The boar's hair brush is a good choice, but even the most careful will still get light swirl marks (the kind you can see in just the right light reflection). Not nearly as bad as the rotary brushes in car wash and about the same as a good quality mit. You may want to have a rinse bucket handy to rinse out your brush frequently.

denis1

I have a 4 week old 2000 Maxima (metallic silver) that I would like to wax as soon as possible. For a brand new finish, should I go with a natural wax (e.g. carnauba) or would I be better off with a polymer sealant? What are the pros or cons of each? I live in TX where the temp and sun can get pretty intense. If I use one type now, will I always need to use the same type unless I buff it out?

Thanks!

pat455

There has been a lot of discussion about that very question here in Town Hall. There are a number of archived topics and a couple of active ones you may want to research. Key wax into the Search box at left to find them. The ones where these discussions have occurred are the various What's the best wax & polish, Waxes and Polishes and Store Bought Car Waxes.

Happy reading! :-)

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

rs_petty

There are about 3 schools of thought. Traditionalists say only use carnuba (Blitz, Zymol, Malm's, high end Meguiars or Mothers), second school is the polymer base products such as Zaino, and third are the Nu-Finish, Prolong type polymer products. Bottom line is you need to decide which is better for you and your particular car situation (length of time to keep, time for upkeep, what results you want, etc...). In the end, continued regular care may be more important than which product. Also try carcareonline.com and autosupermart.com sites for more information.

pblevine

Good Ole Pat is correct. Their are a number of Waxes and Polishes topics with extensive posts are the qualities of each type of these care products. Try the Waxes and Polishes Part Three (#833?) for the most current info.

Nevertheless, I'll add a few words. rs petty makes a few good points. Agreed that regular care is the most important factor. Both high quality waxes and true polymers will do a great job of protecting your finish. And both types will produce very good shines. And your personel requirements are also an important factor.

But alias, no one is really objective. So, here's my take: The high quality waxes such as Meguiars will produce a 'richer' looking shine. The high quality polymers such as Zaino and Finish First will produce a 'clearer' glassier shine (more liquid looking). I wouldn't consider the 'natural polymers' such as Nu-Finish as their addatives and 'natural' impurities age over time and can leave discolored layers. The purer (synth) polymers (Zaino and Finish First) will not discolor any clearcoated finish and will last much longer than the wax based products. The polymers are also much easier to apply and maintain. But then again, I'm a proud Zaino user.

klin

I got the tip from another forum.

Actually the nail polish remover is quite nice. Can remove excess touch-up paint for up to a week after application. Also, doesn't seem to affect surrounding paints.

Any way, I also bought Lanka to try it out. But $20 vs $2 is a big difference.

pumpkin

Will gasoline hurt a clearcoat finish? I just filled my car up and used a pump that did not shut-off when the gas level in my tank was full. Therefore, gasoline spilled out down the side of my car.

I'm sure it eats the wax off, but does it also hurt the clearcoat and paint job?

Thanks for the help!

rs_petty

If you leave it in contact with the paint it will. Try to wash it off as soon as possible.

klin

hello,

I tried Lanka, and the result is not as good as expected....

The first problem is that Lanka tends to wipe out all the touch-up paint. I've to wait at least a week after touch-up application to use Lanka. This is bad esp. for deep chip.

Second Lanka tends to darken metallic paint. I guess I've to use a Glaze to shine it up.

Tips using Lanka is appreciated.

rickmtb1

I am really po'd at myself. I mindlessly tried removing a pretty think splotch of bird dropping (which was left on the car about two hours) and I scratched the hood of my black '00 maxima. Two questions: next time, how should I handle the problem, and two, how is the best way to repair the damage I just did? I have to take the car into the dealer to repair a scratch they put in the door, so I can always put a sad look on and have them buff out the hood, but in case I need to know in the future, I'd appreciate any advice.
Thanks in advance...

vivona

I have tried Langka and also find it darkens metallic paint. I have found that using very little and being careful prevents you from removing all the touch-up paint. I only wait about 30 minutes for the touch-up paint to dry then lightly buff the Langka over the blob, checking to make sure I stop when the surface is even with the surrounding paint.

You do not get an invisible repair like Langka claims, but you are able to smooth the touch-up paint blob even with the surface. I guess the real advantage over using fine grit sandpaper is that Langka doesn't remove the original paint around the repair.

legendaccord

What works to lubricate the window channels and the slides for the moon roof? My car is a Honda accord with what appears to be rubber channels. My body shop recommended "Dri-Lube" which I have yet to locate.

spnx

I lubricate all rubber seals/weatherstripping with a generic silicone spray. I spray it on, let it penetrate, and then wipe away the excess.

BTW, I also use this on the underhood rubber hoses after cleaning the engine.

cody_75460

I have found it most helpful to run the tire cleaner over the whole car then wash it with the high pressure car wash. The best way to make it shine it to use the Car Wash Wax and then at the end you would use the spot free rinse and that would dry all the way and not leave spots on the car. From experience the hand waxes that are use they keep taking a layer of coating off the car each time it is used so buyer beware.

projectzx3

i am looking to add custom graphics to my new car. how does this affect the paint underneath of the designs etc. if proper care is taken of the paint that is not covered by the graphics (to limit oxidation etc)will there still be a noticeable difference if i change design every couple of years? anyone with any graphics experience out there that can shed some light on this for me. thanks.

2darc

I foolishly took my 2 month-old silver metallic Mazda Protege on a road trip and accumulated numerous rock chips on the paint. The Insurance Company warns that I will never get the same quality finish/durability as the original paint job but the body shop disagrees. Obviously, they have their biases so I was wondering if I could get a third opinion. My options are to just touch-up the dings (cheaper but still noticeable) or virtually repaint the whole car (chips are on almost EVERY panel!)

joe166

There is no question that the paint job done by a quality body shop CAN match that of the factory or even exceed it, but the reality is that it will not. No body shop will remove all the chrome, they will probably mask it. No body shop can bake the finish as it can be done before the plastic parts are attached to the body. I had a problem with my Cadillac STS which had the pearl paint which was almost impossible to match. As a result, I had the entire car repainted at a really top notch shop with wonderful results. Even with what I considered to be a great job, when I went to trade it in, every place I went to assumed it had been in a major accident and marked it down accordingly. The masking around the windows was good, but not perfect. A full paint job should be your last resort. I would think that to compare to the factory you would have to spend well into the mid four figures. That is, over 2500. It would be very labor intensive. Just my opinion.

2darc

Thanks for the response joel66! My main concern is actually the longevity of the paint job. The insurance company will cover whatever it will cost to get the job done right - currently estimated at about $2K - but the body shop can ask for more as required. They said they will be removing all the molding they can (but obviously not the glass, etc) and will take off the bumper to paint it. As for resale value, since it was not in a accident and I don't expect to sell it within the next 5 years, I'm not too concerned - besides, my protege is worth a fraction of your STS. Thanks again for your opinion!

hall2

Last summer I found a polish/wax that will burn the s..t in the sun. It just turn the craps into a black charcoal. Want to know more?
Stay tune...................

jeffs12

If I apply a 9" wide red racing strip decal on the hood, roof and trunk of a new white VW Beetle for a period of one to two years, will I see that the rest of the exposed white(German)paint faded (when the stripes are removed) as compared to the "covered" racing stripe areas, leaving a whiter area where the stripes were? In other words... DOES GERMAN PAINT FADE OVER TWO YEARS? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

hall2

It is Glo shield. I saw this on tv ad way back then and now it is on clearance so I tried it. It works. I had bird drops on the hood of my 2000 Maxima last summer for over two weeks. It just burn off by the sun and never leave any imprints on the paint. Don't use this stuff on black paint. It looks blochy and I don't know why.
This stuff last for a long time if not up to 3 years.

surekha

Folks, please advise me on this one.

I just bought a new Honda Accord SE with Ruby Red color. I got a personalized tag for it. DMV gave me a 60 day temporary paper tag and told me to tape it to the rear of the car.

I did as they told but when it was time to remove the tag, I realized that the tape is not coming off. I am afraid that doing anything drastic may do some permanent damage to my new car.

can anyone advise me? I used the transparent tape which is about 2" wide.

Thanking you in advance.

auj

I found a tiny drop of white paint on the hood of my green car. I washed my car with car wash and it's still there. Does anyone know of a way to remove the drop of paint without damaging the coating/paint of the car itself? Thanks.

vivona

The black trim around the window frames of my wife's car is fading. It would be too labor intensive to mask and protect the whole (white) car just to spray paint the frames, so I want to just try applying black vinyl tape of the kind used in racing stripes and such. I have checked the local auto parts stores, but all they carry is pinstriping. I would need tape about 4" wide. Anybody know a source of very wide automotive striping tape? I don't mind mail order or Internet stores.

croct

Try laying a wet sponge on it for a couple of hours, if the paint drop is latex or water based
it will loosen.If it doesn`t loosen chances are it`s not a water based paint. You might look into
the clay products that everyone is raving about to remove it.Don`t forget to use the lube if you try the clay.Ask the guy called "eraser" he is usually in these forums somewhere talking about getting impurities out of paint without hurting the finish.

drscopem

Hi:
#229 - sticky tape
The safest thing to use on paint or glass is 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. You can get this at NAPA ,etc. Even Wal-Mart has it in small containers. Follow directions (apply, let soak in then remove tape.) You can apply with Q-tips if you wish. I use the edge of a credit card or my fingernail to GENTLY ease off the stuck on item. I have used it with complete success on stickers that have baked in the sun for 15 years. Beware applying it to the inside of your rear windshield as it will remove the adhesive that keeps the defoggger attached.
If you apply it to paint then you must rewax the area because the wax will be removed by the 3M.

#230 - stubborn paint
Detailer's clay was made for this kind of problem. Lots of lubricant and gentle pressure will see you through the night.
Good luck.

rs_petty

222 & 227: I'd say that any vinyl tape treatment, when removed, will leave a noticeable "shadow." Depending on how you maintained the rest of the finish will determine whether it is darker, lighter, less glossy, etc... I doubt you will ever get the paint back to an unnoticeable status.

223: I just can't imagine what you went through to get so many rock chips on a 2 month old car that would require a total paint job, but if your insurance company is willing to pay the tab then get it repainted.

231: An alternative would be to have a glass shop pull the mouldings off and have them powder coated (DIY at eastwoodco.com) or polished. You'll never get the tape to stick at the edges for very long.

jbadams

Try heating the tape with a hair-dryer to peel it off. Then use WD-40 to remove the excess glue. Then re-wax that area.

mmccloskey

Howdy folks:

I have a '99 Solara SLE, Silverstream in color that recently had the hood repainted due to a manufacturing flaw. The bodyshop cleaned the car, dryed the hood area, then placed a plastic drop cloth over the roof and trunk area (still wet) to protect from overspray. Upon removal of the plastic, the paint on the roof/trunk area has clouded up and looks blochie (SP?). I was told that Toyota is using a water-based paint due to environmental restrictions. Anyway could the paint have 'absorbed' the trapped moisture and it taking a while to get back to normal? It has been over 2 weeks now and the paint still looks cloudy. It's been rather cold here in the mid-atlantic. As a brief background, the door handle pulls often get water marks on them and cause the handles to 'change color' then will eventually go back to a uniform hue. Anybody in the business have any insight on this dilema?

Thanks in advance - Michael J. - hoping for a miracle.

stuff1

Check out the buy at http://www.redisoft.com/groupbuycenter/buy.asp?mode=read&row_id=45&Buy_Title=Zaino+Bros%2E+Products

lucky20

I can not say for sure what has happened to you'r paint, but it sounds like some form of moisture blush. I would suspect paint defect. I would definitely confront the manufacturer/dealer, about possible warranty?. 2 weeks seams like a long time for a temporary defect to last, and if it is temporary, it will probably occur again. It may have effected the clear coat only & it would be cost effective to try buffing the clear first. If this does not achieve the desired result, the only remaining solution would be to properly prep & re-paint. No miracle!

mmccloskey

Thanks for your comments on my paint situation. Could the 'Moisture Blush' condition be remedied by putting the car in a paint booth and heating/baking the finish to remove the moisture? The bodyshop that painted the hood said this happened to another vehicle and the paint 'corrected' itself. I find it hard to understand how the paint would absorb any liquid - I thought all paints were 'sealed'. Thanks again for your time and comments. You can check my profile and respond via that method if you choose. Michael J.

hagar

has anyone here tried this stuff and what did they think about how long it lasts and its shine quality? what does it do for the paint.
found it at autosupermart.com

thanks

projectzx3

picking up our car from the body shop on friday.
had a new hood, left fender, bumper and headlights put on. what should i look for when i inspect the car? never needed a body shop before so it's new to us. thanks

daverose

Look for alignment of the new components with the old, operation of the moving components, including the wheel clearing the wheel well in turns in both directions, and paint matching.

Is the spacing between panels even and equal on both sides of the vehicle; is the space between the door and the new fender the same the entire length of the components? Does the door on the new fender side operate as easily as, or better than, it did before you had to replace the fender? Is the space between the hood and the new fender the same as the space between the hood and the old fender and is it parallel for the entire length? Is the space between the back of the hood and the panel under your windshield equal? Does the hood latch and unlatch and open as easily as, or better than, it did before you had to replace the parts? Does the hood stay properly open in the same way it did before the body work? (Do the springs still hold it open, or does the prop bar work correctly?) Is the space between the ends of the bumper where it meets the fenders the same on both sides? Is the space between the top of the bumper and the bottom of the grille the same all the way across? Is the bottom of the bumper properly/evenly aligned with any body panel that might be under the grille?

How well does the paint on top of the old fender match the paint on the new hood? How well does the paint on the new hood match the paint on the panel under the windshield? How well does the paint on the new fender match the paint on the old door? Is there any paint overspray; in the wheel well, onto the wheel or wheel cover, onto the grille, into the motor compartment, or onto the wires and front inside panel of the door?

poisondartfrog

A co-worker of mine bought a white 2000 GM SUV. The #^@(* detailer glossed the tires without wiping off the excess, before delivery. The next day, he noticed brown residue inside the wheel flares and along the bottom of the truck. It seems to have permanently stained the clearcoat. Any advice? Dealer is willing to *lightly* sand to remove the stain, but does it have to come to sanding to remove the staining?

Lesson learned: Tire Dressing isn't worth it!

projectzx3

to daverose,

thanks i will check all of those things out!

pat455

I would try a non-abrasive clay before I let the dealer do any sanding at all. There's been a fairly recent discussion of the use of clay in Store Bought Car Waxes in case you might like to look that up.

You could load the whole topic (over 500 posts, go get a cup of coffee!) and use your browser's search feature to find clay, or you could try looking around posts in the 400 to 450 range.

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

daverose

I would try "everything" else to remove the stains.

Avon Skin-So-Soft bath oil is successfully used to dissolve and clean a remarkable list of items. WD-40 is also used.

Try using the Edmunds Town Hall Search function to find other methods/products.

The archived posts about What is the Best Wax/Polish and similar topics, many of which are linked at the beginning or end to predecessor and successor topics, and each other is another source.

rs_petty

I've never known any that wouldn't just wash off.

jrmiller

This may have already been addressed and I missed it, but I am considering purchasisng a black Trans Am and I am concerned about being able to keep it looking great. Specifically, I see a lot of black cars that show swirl patterns when they are cleaned up. I can only imagine how hard it is to keep black finishes looking new and not showing every defect in the finish. I take good care of my cars and generally use a buffer when waxing. Is this the problem causing the swirls or something different. Also, I have been reading about claying cars (something I was unaware of) and would like to do this also. Is this going to be more difficult on a black car. I guess I'm really wanting somebody to clue me in as to whether I'm asking for a lot of headaches buying black.

pat455

If you haven't done so already, looking through the various wax topics here in Town Hall may prove helpful to you. There are lots of 'em, you can key wax in to the Search feature at left to find them all.

Darker cars, especially black, are certainly more susceptible to showing swirls. I believe that a buffer is more likely to create them than buffing by hand with the proper material.

Many folks believe that hand buffing with high quality bath towels (department store, not "mart" types) that are made in the USA labeled 100% cotton (loops and backing) is the best way to avoid or minimize swirling on dark cars.

There has been much discussion in these wax topics on what is the "best" and the "easiest" product to use, particularly when hand buffing. Seems to me the polymer products require less effort to put on, take off, and need renewing less often -- all of which adds up to fewer times you have to buff, and therefore fewer times to add swirls.

Just my two cents. Good luck!

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

rs_petty

If you think the time/effort to get black paint to perfection is a headache, then you won't enjoy it. Dark colors will show more defects (swirls, chips, etc.) but look better (IMHO) when prepped. Proper techniques will keep that TA looking good for a long time, but requires regular effort. Clay will work on all colors

pblevine

I'm no expert and these comments are IMHO. If you like Black as a car color, you should be able to have it - and keep it clean too. I have a dark emerald green paint on mine.

I would never use a commercial car wash with those big brushes and I personally would stay away from buffers. Swirl Marks, nuff said. I'd absolutely recommend claying your car. And I'd also recommend a polymer finish such as Zaino. Using a polymer instead of wax will protect your car better, last longer, and shine better. Check out the results at: www.zainobros.com.

sau1

I (my garage door opener actually) just scratched the rear bumper of my brand new Acura 3.2TL. Saw on TV sometime ago about these "eraser" product which can take away ugly scratches without hurting the paint. Anyone knows anything about this product, and how I can get it (other than watching TV at wee hours trying to catch the commercial?) Any other suggestion to fix this problem? Thanks.

ntombi

I'm not in a position to hand wash my car, and alternate between a regular "brush-free" car wash where I get it waxed, inside done, etc., and a Laserwash facility. I have a dark blue 7-month-old car, and I really don't want swirl marks. Does anyone know about these high pressure no touch car washes, and if they leaves those dreaded swirls?

Thanks.