Ford Explorer Starting and Stalling Problems
My 2006 Explorer started stalling with no warning at around 18000 miles in Feb 2007.
I have had discussions with Ford since and the car has been in to two dealerships in NC.They have no codes coming up and cannot replicate the problem.
This happens at all speeds and when it does I lose power steering and it can be very scary.I have avoided 2 accidents so far.When the car comes to a halt it starts first time and I may not have another stalling incident for several hundred miles or it may happens another mile down the road.
The last time it happened at speed was crossing the Chesapeak Bridge in Virginai Beach which was very very scary.
Ford have no solution and say will not replace my car under lemon law.Apparently National Highway Traffic Safety Admin now have a total of 4 2006 reported 2006 stalling Explorers.Contact them on 1 888327 4236 if you have a similar problem.
I am about to travel from NC to CA and hope that no serious problem occurs.I have told Ford about my travel plans and they do not care so I suppose I am a guinea pig for them
I have had discussions with Ford since and the car has been in to two dealerships in NC.They have no codes coming up and cannot replicate the problem.
This happens at all speeds and when it does I lose power steering and it can be very scary.I have avoided 2 accidents so far.When the car comes to a halt it starts first time and I may not have another stalling incident for several hundred miles or it may happens another mile down the road.
The last time it happened at speed was crossing the Chesapeak Bridge in Virginai Beach which was very very scary.
Ford have no solution and say will not replace my car under lemon law.Apparently National Highway Traffic Safety Admin now have a total of 4 2006 reported 2006 stalling Explorers.Contact them on 1 888327 4236 if you have a similar problem.
I am about to travel from NC to CA and hope that no serious problem occurs.I have told Ford about my travel plans and they do not care so I suppose I am a guinea pig for them
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I figured out that the blend door is pretty much busted so I undertook the task of removing the glove box, the instrument panel, etc etc... and stuck my hand into the heat control panel and pulled the blend door into a position so it would blow out heat... which is ok i dont need the a/c right now anyway..
but in my attempts to put it all back together i got it to completly start once...and then i turned it off.. and now as i try to start the engine it does this:
1. all the interior lights are on, but slightly dim
2. when i turn the key i hear a constant clicking till i stop turning the key
3. the instrument panel lights flicker as to do all the other lights.
4. the engine doesnt turn over at all..
what happened? need help asap, with no working car im trapped at my house extremly bored... please help asap.
tidester, host
tidester, host
If it happens again, I would re-trace the steps you took to see if you possibly shorted something in the process to correct your HAC problem. Good luck!
If it were my car - I may just sell it and get another one, as this is a problem Ford will never be able to fix, as it won't happen predictably. They can't fix what they can't demonstrate, if no codes are stored. Nobody could.
IF it always restarts - I may tolerate it and see what gives. IT may stop doing it, or become frequent enough to demonstrate to the dealer, who could then fix it.
I am surprised Ford doesn't care though. The Dealer doesn't build the car, you know, so it's not their fault. Ford, however, is usually pretty responsive to a safety risk. I may get a lawyer, and sue Ford over it, if I couldn't get some attention any other way. But I think Ford is your recourse if you want to pursue it. They should buy the car back and replace it for you. I have seen them do this before where safety is in question. Safety is your case - and with proper documentation, you may have one.....
Sorry for your irritation. I understand how you feel. :lemon: But they are just machines, and it's a wonder they work at all, frankly.
Lastly - depending upon your state's lemon laws - if you put it into the dealer for a number of times within a specified time period, for the same issue, and they don't fix it, the lemon law may apply and get you action.
Best of luck. Howard
I just need to get back to CA in one piece.
I am horrified at Ford messing me about for the last few months and looking at the lawsuits they are now settling over the rollover issue I am surprised that they are not more sensitive to this
thats .002%
Mark.
The car cut out in front of oncoming trafic yesterday and my wife called has just happened again on the way to the doc
I will take your advice and insist the manager drives with his family the next time.
Will have to do that now when I get back to CA
thanks
The passive anti-theft system prevents the engine running unless a programed key is in the ignition. You can't just go to the hardware store and get a key, it has to be programed to the vehicle.
You need to get the truck towed to the dealer if you don't have a programed key.
using a screwdriver will never ever start the vehicle. unless a programed key is present the fuel pump does not run.
Makr.
Is it possible that the key lost his programming? Can I program that key again. The doors do not open with the indoors buttons, we cannot open the driver door with the key. Is this problem the same problem with the programmed Key?
Understand where your pain is. Just encounterd the exact problem you have and just started the crappy ford process.
Naturally ther are no codes and they cant duplictae it. I like the serv mgr suggestion and may attempt it. If you have had any luck in rectifying the problem please respond to this reply as to how I can email for further help. Hope you get some releif cause I cant...ME
I had a total of 3 incidents on my trip across the USA, needless to say scary.I took the car back to the dealership where I bought it, checked all electricals etc etc, drove the car 300 miles could not duplicate.I then spoke to the President of PS Motors here in PS and he put his service director on it.Looks like they found a problem with the
cause 27301 throttle body (9E926) 42 which had intermitent faulty ttle body.Replaced throttle body
They also looked at the cruise control which I am convinced had some thing to do with it.
They then test drove for another 300 miles, no problems yet, got it back last Friday.
Ask your garage to look at throttle body and motor asy.
I have my fingers crossed
replaced the fuel pump because signs of bad fuel pressure..
still won't start..
theres no fuel bein delivered to the cylinders, like the injectors arent spraying..
went to NAPA and the guy working had the same problem but in his 1998 Ford Ranger.. he said it was the crank sensor... so i bought that and replaced it... but still same ol same ol... still won't start
so i'm running out of ideas and getting ready to take it somewhere... but i would rather not take it some where.. if i can fix it myself..
so anyone have any ideas?
oh and my check engine and check gage light stays on
jimy
check engine light.
brought to shop.
said the code indicated it was DPFE sensor.
replace DPFE sensor (1 hr diag+1hour labor+187.90 sensor part).
picked up explorer, drove home, and check engine light comes on again.
brought back, and now shop tells me that it is the catalytic converter exhaust system. He said "Sucking alot of air in, but not 'farting' it out" thus the cat converter as he said.
Is it possible to have the cat converter give a car sluggish perfromance?? Will not shift into higher gears.. it sometimes does if u 'baby' the accelerater.
He ruled out the MAF, which is what i thought it may be.
Any ideas about the cat converter (sorry i don't have code, but the shop swears it is the cat converter, but they dont do exhaust work.. so i have to take it somewhere else).
Hard to say what the problem is via the internet, could be hundreds of things. I think you have to start diagnosis with the basic items (electrical and fuel delivery), although if you assume this problem existed with the prior owner before they sold it......they probably already tried the easier simple things to look at.
If that is a 94 with OBD-1, are there any error codes that were set and remain with the check engine light?
1 - remove fuel filter and try to blow thru it,if you can't,replace it. you already covered this one.
2- ignition module's are weak on these..,does it fire right back up? or does it have to sit for a while,
3 - you may have a crank sensor going bad.you would need to check the injector pulse and spark when it won't start..
this is the most common problems for these symptons..
4 - if you have spark and it won't start,get someone to spray carb spray into the throttle body while you crank it over,if it trys to start,you have a fuel problem or no injector pulse,which means you ethier have a fuel pump not funtioning or a bad crank sensor,and a bad ignition module can kill the injector pulse too and still have spark.
Does anybody have a solution?
its very frustrating, out of nowhere just will not remain on idle unless i hold the gas pedal down. and later start like nothing happened. no error codes nothing.
any ideas what one can try.
thanks
please let me know.
thanks
When it gets around zero degrees or below, the truck will crank over and sound like its going to start- but won't start. Does anyone know what would cause this. I put in a new fuel pump and filter. I dont have this problem when the temperature is above zero, it starts upwith no problem and runs just fine. If someone has any ideals, i would appreciate it.
I am having the exact issues with my 95 XLT 173,000 miles. Cranking but not firing. Fuel pump and relay were replace in 05 & 06, can’t exactly remember what the issues were at that time but definitely not this. My engine is the original and everything else is working fine. The first time it happened it started back up in about 5 min, I got 442 miles before it happened again. Then 1,274 miles before it occurred, this time I waited about 3 min. before even trying to get it to fire and it fired on the second start. I took it to the dealer and they kept it a week but wouldn’t you know it fired up every single time. I think they did put it on the diagnostic machine but since they couldn’t get the problem to re occur nothing showed up. Like you this never happens on a cold start but after having driven for awhile and shopping then trying to start up. The mechanic thought that maybe the fuel pump was not factory authorized and said he had seen problems with them. I had an independent service station install so it wouldn’t surprise me. I am trying to sell my car and would love to resolve the issue before a new owner has to deal with this. If you find out anything please let me know and I will do likewise. Seems hard to diagnose since it has a funny way of starting back up again.