Isuzu Trooper Transmission Problems
i have a 89 trooper 4x4 automatic transmission 4doors 4cyl, and it does not shift correctly because it shifts at 4500revs on normal drive (not full throtle), from 1st to 2nd runs like 30-35 mph. it shifts to 3rd, but for that i need to go hell fast!!! what could it be ??? does anyone has the same problem ????? i tried to adjust the throtle cable that goes into the trans but was useless.... a sensor maybe ?????? please help me!!
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Thanks
nobhil
Thanks,
nobhil
I've had the car checked out by reputable repair folks who were unable to find anything out without taking out the transmission and pulling it apart at great expense (all of them recommended against doing that). One guy recommended that I leave it alone unless it starts to act up more regularly. He was sympathetic, but since the car doesn't act up on command he felt there was little he could do since he wasn't experiencing the problem.
I drive my kids around and having a car slip into another gear while in motion is disconcerting to say the least. Has anyone else come upon this problem? I've checked for recalls, service bulletins, etc. and am drawing a blank.
I bought the car used several years ago (returned lease) and it now has 83,000 miles on it. I've maintained it pretty well all this time (may have gone a little long on some oil changes) and recently had the transmission and engine flushed/new liquids/etc. I hoped it would help, but no luck.
Don't know if thats how its suppose to be, but the issues seem to correlate.
http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/range.pdf
Watch the shift indicator on the dash. If the lights behave strangely, for example indicating R when you have the shifter in 3, the mode switch could be the problem. Try cycling the shifter several times to try and clean the contacts.
Read more on this topic in a previous discussion here:
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=1707
the thing is that i dont have the money to take it to a especialized tranmission guy... but if somebody knows what it is please tell me so i can save some money on diagnostics and stuff.
5th gear was hard to get in but the others were OK. Yikes! what have I done? The bolt was screwed all the way in when I first started so that blows my theory that it ony needs to go in part way as some sort of adj. Help!
Hey guys i need help here. a few days ago my "check transmission" light on the dash starter to blink at me. then all of a sudden i slowed right down, and it was revving REALLY high but i was only doing about 40 kms (roughly 25 miles) so i stopped my truck and i smelled this awful burning smell, it definetly wasnt oil. so i topped off my fluid level it seemed it went way down for some reason, im guessing that was the burning smell, perhaps transmission fluid. so basically i cant get outta first gear, i had to drive it in low gear all the way home. now the thing is everything is fine with it except i cant get outta first gear, it revs extremely high but im only doing about 40 km/hour. and yes the check tranny light is still blinking. I dont have the money right now to bring it to the garage i Just want an opinion from someone. do i need a new tranny? is it some other problem? has this ever happened to anyone? i need answers. PLEASE help
The check tranny light means a code or codes have been set and can be read to help learn what is going on.
One guys opinion, good luck.
It has 120K and seems to running okay otherwise. Have been having this acceleration problem for over a year but no one's been able to diagnose it.
My concern is that I'll put the money into a new transmission and either that won't solve the problem or something new will arise.
Have a baby due in 2 weeks and wondering if it'd just be safer to get something newer. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Found your reply today and was wondering if you ever got your trooper repaired. Sounds like I have the same problem. Rev and 4th seenm normal but starting in drive or 1st or second moves very slow until around 30 mph. If you repaired it what was the final cost ? Thanks
good luck
Thanks
I've also had an issue with the Trans running 4th gear at high rpm (2900 rpm @ 60mph). If i push it past 70 mph, the tranny clunks real hard and the light comes on. This happened previously this year and I had to replace the tranny. When the truck gets to 60mph, the rpms jump a little then settle back in. I'm thinking wiring issue but no one can figure it out.
has anyone run into this that's had a Trooper? The Rodeo forum hasn't provided any info yet.
thanks!
shop took short cuts, and perhaps are not well-versed in the transmission problems
of a 2000 Isuzu Trooper LS. I NEED WHATEVER FEEDBACK I CAN GET to identify the realities of my situation. I must find a job asap, and I need my car!!.
One of the first interesting things I read was that my car has a sealed transmission,
which needs to be replaced, not repaired. Is this true?
Secondly, the shop that did the work considers anything electrical in nature that
may be causing the problem to be outside of, ie: not included in the price of the
work they did. Is this common, acceptable practice?
Also, another mechanic (very recently) showed me that 5 of the pan bolts were stripped and therefore would not achieve the necessary torque. In one of the pan bolts the original mechanic had placed a wire in the threads in an attempt to have the bolt tighten against it !! Not only had the original mechanic not advised me of the problem, but what he did say was that he "fixed everything he came across like new". Within a couple of months the car wasn't shifting properly, was out of fluid, and when I had asked the original mechanic what the problem had been he snapped at me that "it blew a seal!!, it happens!!" Is it considered acceptable prac-
tice to rebuild a transmission without making sure it all bolts back together properly?
The last time I took it to the original mechanic, the transmission would only shift
manually. The mechanic insured I didn't go anywhere else by insisting I leave my
car that moment, while taking 3 days to tell me that it was an electrical problem,
HAVING "NOTHING TO DO WITH THE RE-BUILD". He gave it back to me saying the repair cost $140.00. The transmission worked for about 10 miles, then reverted back to manual-only operation. When I called the mechanic, he yelled at me that it worked when I got it, and when I asked him what had been the problem he fixed,
he said he fixed a burned wire, and further yelled that he "could spend all day
explaining it too me but I would never understand!!" I didn't go back. I did, though,
have two other mechanics look for any trace of a burned or recently repaired wire,
and there was none.
I have since done more research and learned that the electrical system needs to
be "reset" following a rebuild. Maybe he doesn't know about that? I also read in my owners manual that the NEED FOR MANUAL OPERATION IS A MODE THAT THE COMPUTER SETS THE CAR INTO WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY.
Through all of this the original mechanic has been telling me I only had a 90 day
warrantee on the work, but when I pulled out the original invoice, it said 12 months.
The mechanic that showed me the stripped bolts also pointed out that what trans
fluid was there was burned. Does that necessarily mean that the tranny needs to be replaced/repaired again? I have been driving the car manually, but only around
town, no more than 35mph. Can that alone burn-up a transmission if there is fluid?
Or is the overheating directly related to the leaking transmission fluid?.
I have 30 days left on my 12 month warranty, but I don't want to go back to these
guys without some ammunition. I have already filed a report with Fl Dept of Consumer
Services, which I'm told is supposed to regulate business practices. When the trans shop finally responded, they said two things: my model of "transmission is re-buildable, and the transmission works fine." DCS did nothing and closed the file. I contacted the Attorney General, and they answered back that it was the DCS I had to speak to.
I can't believe that NEITHER of them has addressed my very specific complaints.
All of the other mechanics that have seen the car say that I need to take the car
back and demand that they do it right, but I have absolutely no confidence in that
idea, and no confidence in either the ability or integrity of this shop.
I've already come very close to loosing my home. I have to get a job right away, but
I live in a smaller town, with very few open positions in my field, at my salary range.
I welcome any input that may help me put this to rest.
My suggestion is make sure you document every bit of communication and work that you have with them with dates/times. You can also consult an attorney. Some attorneys will even write a letter on your behalf with your expectations to the repair shop. Just having it on legal letterhead may add some persuasion that they need to get it in gear and help resolve the issues they've created. You might also see if one of the other mechanics you've spoken with will go with you to the repair shop and have a sit down with those guys. That way you can have it all laid out for you and the mechanic you bring with you and can call BS or ask questions if things are unclear right there on the spot. Again, document everything. The only problem with trying to take another mechanic with you is that it might be taboo to do so...since they are competitors. But doesn't hurt to ask. Offer them some cash for their time. It may be well worth it.
You can also talk to your local news agencies (TV and newspaper) to see if they might help you set things right if the above doesn't work. Our local TV news has a segment where they confront bad businesses on consumers behalf on the news.
Good luck. I know it is frustrating.
I just took my 2000 Trooper in yesterday to begin having it's transmission rebuilt today. I am hoping they are an honorable shop. The Better Business Bureau gave them an A+. That reminds me...you can file a complaint with the BBB also.
I have found a low cost atty service, they're next, and hopefully more readers will
respond, especially transmission mechanics, so that I can show technical as well as consumer responses to the atty.
I was hoping the Dept of Consumer Services guy would stand beside me on this, he
even told me on the phone that he would keep pushing until we got a satisfactory
response, then the next thing I got was his letter completely dropping the ball.
Believe me I've thought alot about paying one of the other mechanics to go in with me, but they're in another city, and likely to consider it too much an imposition to
begin with. And I have contacted a couple of "investigative reporter" scenarios, but
they have either not responded or brushed me off with a form letter.
Thanks again for your support, a little outside empathy goes a long way for me
these days.
KatheR
and checked to make sure the drive shafts to the front hubs were
turning, they were. We pulled the wheels and the snap ring on
the right front was broken. Replaced the 16 cent snap and the
drive on the front worked.