Same issue with mine. At 100k miles, the dealership had replaced 4 egr's, multiple sensors, and turbo hoses multiple times without getting rid of my check engine light. Finally the mechanic told me: dude, we only work on about six of these in the entire area and yours is the oldest. He then recommended that i go to a 'diesel specalist' (dynamic diesel in Snohomish, WA). The found that super hot blowby had coated the inside of the engine to the point where the valves contacted. They had to wire brush the crap out. Also, 2 injectors were at 20% flow rate... Probably gor a long time. The oil blowby is what was killing the egr's. The dealerships do not know how to Diagnose these motors. The injectors cost 700 each. The valve rocker and cleanup of the motor plus cam replacement was another 4000. All in all, around 8k to get the pos up and running again. Jeep should have covered these fixes as they started occurring at 20000 miles. stay away from these things unless you want to smoke thru cash. Otherwise, awesome vehicle. :-(
I have a late production 06 that I purchased new. I have 85,000 on it now and I have really had super luck with the unit. TC along with the TCM, and pump were replaced on warranty, transmission mounts had to be replaced at like 65,000, one EGR on warranty, battery, turbo drain pipe, 1 set of brakes, all of the idlers and the fan clutch had to be replaced, thermostat was just replaced at 85,000, 3 sets of tires, still has original exhaust, one window regulator! All in all a great little vehicle that does everything i ask of it. Wish it got better MPG's...I get 20 around town and 24 on the highway. Faithful with the oil changes (every 5000) and have used only Mobil 1 0-40 since day one. I have not done any of the modifications like elephnat hose, etc.
I also have been VERY happy with my CRD ......the only thing I have had to replace is the fan clutch! I have 110M on it at this time and have scheduled an appointment to have the timing belt changed ....I read online that you should do this at around 100M .....I also have a small leak somewhere in the cooling system .....I don't think this is serious because I can smell antifreeze after shutting down ....and when it's cool outside, I can see a small amount of "steam vapor" coming from under the hood. I just can't find the leak by myself ...so this is going to get checked when I have it in for the timing belt. My CRD does everything I ask of it .....pulls my trailers ...of which I have 3 ....and I get anywhere from 22-24 in town and 25 -28 on the highway. I have got close to 30mpg on a trip to AZ. If they would come out with another diesel powered vehicle built something like the Liberty, I would trade for a new one ....but until then, I'll keep driving this one and hopefully it will be good for at least 200M! (I have never ran biodiesel but always purchase my fuel from stations that I know pump a lot of fuel.....better chance of getting good, clean fuel)
Recently my CRD (85000 miles) developed a significant chatter when I first entered a steep up hill grade doing approx. 45-50MPH. The entire TC, pump, and TCM was replaced under warranty at like 45000. In consideration of what I was reading on the web it sure seemed like perhaps I was looking at a second TC, by the way my dealer and jeep were going to cover 100% because I have had the vehicle serviced faithfully with them. They reflashed the TCM a couple of weeks ago since they said that the software had defaulted for some reason when a new battery was put in not long ago. I honestly had not been paying all that much attention if the chatter had in fact gone away until the other day on a steep grade and it was still there big time. I took it right in to the dealer and they looked around (doubting it was the TC) and they found the center rear "wishbone" bushing had over 1/2" of play. they replaced the entire wishbone set up (said it was nearly as cheap to replace the entire unit vs's pressing a new bushing in) and guess what the "rubble strip" vibration that would just about knock your teeth out is now completely gone. I just wonder if some have been replacing their TC when they may have had other issues? My Jeep dealer is excellent at working on all aspects of the CRD.
Now that is a piece of good news. It would be kind of you to let others know the name and location of this dealer. From the name you supplied, I can't be certain this is the same part that had a recall issue. It was a rear suspension component but they are the ones that sit on the side of the frame rail. Probably a different part. I found it hard to believe the recall was issued due a few showing rust. If that part failed the rear suspension could twist under the jeep and cause a loss of steering. I'm glad you are having good luck with the dealer. may it always be so. Mine at 110,000 went in for the timing belt replacement. I also requested a new water pump and I specified it must be the Chrysler part. At 135,000 she is still running strong.
My dealer is Foss Motors, Exeter, NH, good bunch that always go out of their way to help. The recall you are speaking of is actaully the trailing arms that run front to back, the wishbone runs side to side over the rear axle. I had the trailing arms replaced under recall last summer, I do wonder why the loose bushing was not picked up at that time? I will say the Liberty CRD is a very rough creature compared to my wife's GC with the 3.0L M-B CRD, now that is is a beast that is as smooth as butter.
I think it was mid summer when I got my recal notice for two trailing arms to be replaced but the recall only applied to vehicles that were in states that used consdiereable amounts of road salt in the winter months. If you do not live in the designated states you woul dnot have gotten the notice.
I think it was mid summer when I got my recall notice for the two trailing arms to be replaced , the recall only applied to vehicles that were in states that used considerable amounts of road salt in the winter months. If you do not live in the designated states you would not have gotten the notice.
I got rid of my '05 about two years ago with just under 80k miles. It got to the point where I coulde not trust the vehicle to be reliable. In addition, parts were becoming "rare" and VERY expensive. I had the 80k warranty and I just did not want to chance keeping it. Just before trading it (for a tacoma). I had the ECM and EGR replaced under warranty. It was the second EGR in 8k miles and fourth in the cars history. The repair would have cost over 1800 dollars without the warranty backing. This final repair was in addition to all the other times the Jeep had been in for repairs that a vehicle with relatively low miles should never have needed.
I feel that Chrysler/Jeep screwed the owners of these cars in the US. They had no dealer support or training for the diesels. I was very disappointed with the vehicle and will never buy a Chrysler or Jeep product again.
What you describe should be attributed to the dealer, not the company as a whole. My dealer and a few others I have read about sent their Dodge diesel mechanic to school as soon as they learned the Liberty CRD would be built. Parts are not an issue at my dealer, they can get any part I need by the next day if I order before 3PM.
Sounds like that dealer didn't see a future in the CRD and neglected to send their tech to school for it. The EGR needed to be replaced with the stainless version. Mine acted up at just 12000 miles and was replaced with the SEGR. It still works good at 100,000+ miles. That suggests their mechanic didn't know there was a better part available.
Sorry you had a bad deal, not all dealers are like that.
Sounds like their tech was not sent to school for the CRD. The EGR should have been replaced with the stainless version at the first sign of trouble. Four of them in that mileage suggests they weren't aware there was an upgrade. The tech at my dealer knew right away at 12,0000 miles the SEGR was available.
There might have been something else causing your trouble as well. Maybe the rings didn't seat properly or ....who knows? My advice to people is always keep paperwork. Once you are past the warranty mileage you can still go back to issues that came up during warranty and by calling a field rep you can sometimes get them to make amends.
What you ended up with was extreme. Mine just now needed a new EGR at 130,000 miles. So the good one lasted from about 12K to 130K. Now with all new EGR and turbo hoses it runs like a scalded cat so I am certain the intake is not all caked up nor the valves. I certainly hope the people who did the repairs have asked you to return for a check up to see if the problem is resurfacing. If the rings were never seated properly all this will come back soon.
I feel terrible that you had all this trouble when it should never have happened. I would write a letter to corporate and let them know all the problems you had due to a dealer who did not properly diagnose the issues with your CRD. you might get some compensation out of it. I heard of a guy who documented all the problems he had with a product. He kept EVERY piece of paper. Corporate gave him a huge discount on his choice of new vehicles since he had already sold the troublesome one and was driving an old clunker.
Well I "thought" ( the dealers suggestion) replacing the axle wishbone on the back was the answer to my severe shutter at 53 MPH as I just start up a hill and not the TC. I was wrong! On a recent trip the shutter was back on 2 occassions. Dealer is now talking to engineers as to what the next step should be. There is still some discussion that it might be the rear engine mounts that have just enough play that it sets up this short period of vibration going up the hill. I think jeep is leaning towards TC needing to be replaced again (86,500 miles). I am optimistic that due to the fact that I have been faithful with all fluid changes and the first TC was done at 47,000 they will stand behind this replacement 100%. Will know next week.
simple things first, could very well be the motor mounts, possibly the "U" joints. IF id is the TQ spend the additional and go with the SunCoast and you should be set for life. Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? If so, have the front tires re-balanced
Does it do it with speed control on or off? Is the trans in D or is the overdrive off?
there are so many things it could be. U joint that gets some harmonic vibe from the engine, the engine mount as suggested, the turbo engaging at very low rpm in a high gear.
I mention harmonics because when things can vibrate they sometimes get other things to vibrate with them at a certain speed or a rpm. That is why it would occur only under certain conditions.
I want to warn everyone. Do not allow any oil leaks to go for even a short period. With changes coming at every 6000 miles and me retired I don't have to do it as often as I used to. Evidently shortly after my last oil change the EGR which had about 100,000 miles on it started malfunctioning. That caused some oil to get pushed out somewhere such that the wind sprayed it all over under the hood. The dealer suggested it was the oil separator which I had replaced about 8,000 miles earlier.
Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.
The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.
Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.
So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.
Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
I have had a few minor troubles with CRD 05. At 75k turbo charger started leaking after a questionable oil change at a local gas station.....so it was replaced. Now 50k miles later it is starting to leak again right after another questionable oil change......big question now is whether to drop another 3000 into yet another turbo charger.......love the ride but. what is reasonable to expect from turbo charger.....a mechanic said the only time he sees this trouble is with wrong oil
A turbo will leak if the seals or the bearings start to go bad. I would think a local machine shop could repair it for you. The last I knew the dealer option was to give core charge for your old one and hit you up for a rebuilt.
Wrong oil might cause a bearing problem with the turbo. If it was NOT full synthetic it might not be able to take the heat, start breaking down and cause the seals to go or the bearing itself to get wobbly and blow the seal.
Another issue that is very important. If your driving has made the turbo work even a bit hard, the turbo and all its housing and bearings will be HOT. The engine should not be turned off suddenly with a hot turbo. The heat is normally carried away by the normal operation of the engine. Turning the engine off allows heat to build up to even higher temperatures then while pulling hard under load. I'm not saying you ruined the turbo because the wrong oil could definitely do that. I'm saying that the engine should never be turned off suddenly if the turbo is hot.
Around town if you have to accelerate hard to move through traffic even that can be enough to heat the turbo. Idling in traffic counts as cool down time so I always do a mental check on how much idle time in between acceleration there is. I normally park and sit for just a minute or two before turning the engine off. Driving on the interstate I use a second key in the ignition, exit and lock the door with my remote leaving the engine running. You can't manually lock the door with the key in. That way when I need to hit the rest room in a hurry, I can let it idle while I'm inside.
I have used full synthetic oil ever since my first oil change. I usually do it at 6,000 but on occasion it has gone past that mark with no harm done. My Liberty now has 135,000 miles on the original turbo with no problems from the turbo itself. I had an oil leak when the EGR failed and plugged up the oil separator but the turbo is fine.
If the shop put the wrong oil in, you might be able to go back on them, IF you have the receipts. That would show which oil they used based on the price. If you think they charged you for synthetic and gave you standard oil you can send a sample to an analysis center and that will give you a full report on exactly what that oil is. They could be held liable for ignoring procedure. That IS what we pay them for.
Good luck with your problems, hope you figure it out.
Wow the having takin it for even an oil as station change at a questionable local gas station would have been 1 gamble to many already for me. I like bio d man have been lucky that the turbo unit has not needed replacing yet. Have 108 k and just sunk 2k into it for the timing belt and all of the adjoining parts see manual for recomended service at 100 k. So I have it up for bid on ebay and all of these lackies constantly want to get these rigs for under blue book which is already too low, for what it is, does and gets in mpg not to speak of how much it costs to make sure it is handled right in service. Kjeo1 THEE MOST INPORTANT THING IS WHO DOES THE WORK ON THESE RIGS. I am back to taking mine to a worthwhile dealer diesel specialist (not all are). Not only do I like the mechanic but it is becuase they will warranty the work. The jeep is special. I have 2 other non special automobiles and I have found nothing but problems with work done on them. From my small town nice mechanic, to my small town taos barely can speak english mechanic and bigger town BBB rated and referred mechanic to corporate held places like Firestone Pep boys and Midas. Problems pointing to incompetance but the difference is I can file with the AG and get results/$ back with the conglomerates with the small town guys it's oh gee sorry deny deny and that's all. No way there going to put money back in my hand and it is a small town better to tread lighlty and my choices are limited.
hey really appreciate the info. I violated about every one of the suggestions contained in both the responses. I have found a diesel specialty shop and I think although it has 128k on it ....it is worth getting fixed. Great mpg's and great power. I will implement each of the suggestions....costly lessons! BUT THANK YOU
Before I bought the Libby CRD, I had a 2002 gas powered Libby. I really like the ease of driving and parking, the visibility. But the little bugger never quite got 19mpg on the highway. With city highway it dropped to about 15mpg.
When I learned at a Jeep Camporee the CRD was coming to the US, I knew right then I wanted one. I calculated if it only got 25 mpg and diesel was 40cents higher per gallon, I would still be driving for less then the gas unit. City driving really tears into mpg so don't be too hard on yours if it seems you are not doing well.
It doesn't take much throttle to activate that turbo. I actually think I would prefer to delay the turbo a bit later but I'm not sure if that can be done. When the turbo starts spooling you might not realize it because it comes up gradually. The variable vane turbo is very smooth. Whenever that turbo is working the system has to add fuel to maintain a proper burn so it is like you are feeding six cylinders instead of four.
When the hose from the turbo split I could hear air hissing even at moderate throttle so that turbo is working way before you realize it. That's why she pulls so strong even below 1500rpm with maybe 1/3 throttle. I could hear mine working through that split hose. It would be helpful to install a boost gauge, then you could see when it is working and maybe learn how not to spool it up.
I'm going to ask my diesel tech about the boost gauge and see what he says.
Best of luck to all you folks. Here's hoping you have a great weekend.
I purchased this vehicle because the old Mercedes turbo diesels seem to run forever. I understood this was a diesel made for Benz in Italy? So despite the mistakes made with the turbo oil and cooling down before shut off.......I still enjoy the Jeep and even had leather seats put in. How many miles are you experts expecting from your Jeeps???
I was told by the diesel tech with proper oil and sensible driving the engine should go 300,000 before any significant work is needed. Not counting the timing belt and water pump. I had all that done on mine at 120k. The water pump is very important as some aftermarkets will not hold up. There are horror stories on the net about them blowing seals after only 30k. Spend a bit more and get the mopar part.
The transmission is the biggest variable depending on what you pull with it and how often you change fluid. And what fluid you use. Should be good to 200,000 since it is the heavy duty version. They found out early on the torque convertor wasn't tough enough for all that torque so recalls were made on that.
The EGR is demonstrating it is only good for about 100-120K. Mine only cost $270 at the dealer. Don't let them over charge for that and make certain they stick to the manpower hours or they will whack you for labor. If you are slender and a bit agile you can do it at home but it can really try your patience as it is a tight spot.
All the other stuff is about the same as for a gas powered Libby.
Be careful out there and keep on chuggin............
Interesting what you said about the fuel gauge sending unit. I have run 100% biodiesel about half the time in my 06 Sprinter. It has a 2.7 liter Mercedes engine with 70,000 miles on it. I put in an auxiliary fuel tank with an original equipment primary pump with fuel gauge sending unit. The sending unit failed after only 2 or 3 tanks of fuel. The gauge stuck at about 3/4 full. Then recently the sending unit in the original tank failed in a similar way. The sending units are $400 to $600. I ordered a Scangauge II which is supposed to tell you how much fuel has been used. It was about $160. I have had no other problems using biodiesel.
I have been using biodiesel for about five years. I don't get it every tankful, but when I do it is usually about 10-15% judging by how much dino diesel is still in the tank. In the winter I faithfully add Howes diesel treatment to prevent jelling and water problems to every tank. In the summer I add it maybe every third tank. It could be the Howes is protecting the fuel sending gauge but I can't be certain. The Liberty now has 140,000 miles.
Since buying this car new, I have gone through many engine problems. 4 egr valves, now a new egr cooler. The repair dollars have been stacking up. with 105K miles, I have accumulated about $5000 in ongoing engine stuff. Now, after getting the timing belt replaced at 105K, I am losing coolant mysteriously. I have been consistently losing coolant somewhere but NOT leaking or dripping anywhere. The last mechanic replaced the egr cooler and a new egr valve. I am convinced now that there must be a head gasket or warped head maybe? Anyone got any ideas????? I will lose two gallons a week easily.
I actually did love the car, but now I will possibly be spending about 5K on an engine with 105K miles. A new engine is about 6K. I am at a loss as to who can fix this thing. Dealer or outside shop. It is hard to find anyone to work on it. I dont know if I can actually afford to sell it.
sooland going no where, can very easily be a head gasket. If so, you should have white smoke coming out of your exhaust on excelleration. Before doing anything else however, replace your radiator cap. If it is not sealing you will loose water through evaporation and if that is the case, it is a heck of a lot cheaper. Pur a Provent system on your crd to cut down on engine problems, it will take alot of the gunk out of the smog set up that causes turbo and EGR failure. Best of luck: Bob
I have 140M on my CRD ..and have very little problem with anything. I DID however have the coolant loss problem much the same as you are having. I took it to the ONLY Jeep dealer I trust to work on this engine and he found that I had a very small leak in my water pump! I also could not see where the coolant was going ...but evidently it would leak out as I was running the engine and because it was in such small amounts, it was evaporating before getting anything wet! I was also told to change my radiator cap ...which I did ..but in my case that didn't help ..but I agree it's what you should do first of all ...it never hurts to have a new radiator cap! I always cringe when I read of owners that have so many problems with their CRD ....as I have such good luck! (Knock on wood) ...I hope you find the problem and it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg!
I have no idea what an egr cooler is. My mechanic has never even mentioned that. One thing that can help take a bit of stress off the EGR is to replace the oil condenser. It sits right on top of the engine slightly toward the back. Mine started leaking because it was clogged. I replaced it and shortly after, the EGR started showing faults and it had to be replaced. But I got almost 100,000 miles out of it. The condenser is a lot cheaper then EGR's, and you can do it yourself in about five minutes.
Coolant might be the water pump as one other mentioned.
I am going to stick my neck out and suggest you have the water pump replaced when you have the timing belt done. The labor is only a fraction more because they have tear the same things apart to get at it.
I'm not sure why you would be looking at replacing an engine with only 105K miles. that engine should easily go to 300,00 before needing new rings or any machine work.
Make certain you are using approved FULL synthetic oil. It is so much cleaner and with that pesky EGR system you need the oil as clean as possible. Don't worry about changing brands so long as they have the ratings listed in the owners manual. Buy what is on sale and change it at least every 6K.
Maybe it helps the engine as well as fuel, I add fuel treatment at least every other tank in the summer and every tank in the winter. That keeps water out of the system and must help clean injectors because mine now has 145K and it runs better then when new.
I hope you can find a good mechanic who goes to diesel school on a regular basis. Brydens, the Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge dealer in Beloit, WI has a guy who really knows his stuff. He did my timing belt and water pump and it cost $1200. I've heard horror stories about dealers charging $2-3,000 for that.
We have a 2006 Jeep Liberty diesel with about 112K on it. We like the car but there are MAJOR problems. Glow plugs. One or more needs replacing. The upshot is that the check-engine light won't go out. Nothing wrong with the engine; it has been checked and runs just fine. It's likely the #2 glow plug that's the problem. The original ones are ceramic and they can crack and/or break off. My spouse removed it, and it is indeed broken. The broken-off piece could be anywhere, including in the engine, and may or may not damage the engine after the glow plug is replaced and the car is fired up.
Unless we get the check-engine light out, the car won't pass the emission inspection required in our state. Evidently it isn't that easy because we can't find anyone who will work on it for less than $3,000, including the Jeep dealerships. Evidently it's a major hassle requiring special tools and removal of the cylinder head, EGR valve, etc. (unless we got bad information). A diesel mechanic told us to just replace the #2 glow plug (with a metal one) and put it back together. He said there's a good chance the broken-off piece has already been pulverized and gone through the engine without damaging it. However, he declined to work on it himself.
This seems to be about the only choice we have. Hopefully the check-engine light will go out, it will pass the emission test, and we will be able to get the tags renewed. Then we will probably trade it. It's been a good car but it's not worth the problems these factory-installed ceramic glow plugs can present.
You can examine the cylinder bore with a boroscope (basically a light on the end of a flexible probe. That's what I'd do. Didn't anybody suggest this to you?
Glow plugs themselves are expendable items, so if they just wear out, that's normal. Breaking is not normal of course.
Nope, a boroscope wasn't suggested. Good to know. On a happy note, the diesel mechanic we spoke to was right. My husband started the car after putting it back together with a new glow plug and it ran just fine. The check-engine light also went out. Hopefully changing the #2 glow plug fixed the problem.
Had a 2005 Jeep Sport 4x4 with the 3.7 , purchase at 127,000 miles on it, drove it until it had 207,000 on it and ran perfect , now own a 2011 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4 with 74,000 miles, becides all the brake calipers locking up on it, the Jeep runs perfect.
Was a huge Chrysler fan I own a 2004 ram 1500,a 2014 ram 1500 and a 2011 Jeep Liberty. Love my trucks with the hemi!! After losing the engine in my Jeep at around 50,000 miles because of a well known lifter issue that Chrysler never took the action to repair. And knew about for many years. And after calling Chrysler directly, they admitted to me that they were aware of the issue but were not willing to fix or help in any way, not even a small discount on a refurbished engine I cannot get rid of my Chrysler products soon enough! They only repair what they are forced to and do not care about how their irresponsible actions affect the livelihood of their customers! If you want a product that the manufacturer not only does not stand behind but actually hides from and accepts no responsibility for then a Chrysler product is for you..
Have not had an issue with my 2011 Jeep Liberty in months because the engine lifters came off their rails and ruined the engine that only had 50,000 miles on it. If you're looking for a reliable form of transportation you are money ahead buying a bicycle! The customer service and warranty issues will be a way more enjoyable experience.
Dose any one still have their CRD on the road? Mine is at 120k, 2006 she needs some work done. Possibly the bearings and a exhaust leak (minor into cab). At this point I'm deciding whether to fix and keep on keeping on or to sell (possibly part out). Any opinions? Or CRD collectors with help on how go about this?
I own a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD bought with 92000 mi has 277000 mi still going strong. $1400.00 every 100,000 water pump, timing belt, thermostat,and one rear sway bar in between. Out west it pushed 32 mpg. east coast 22-24 summer fuel, winter mpg is a flat 20 . Use Rotella synthetic change oil every 5m, fuel filter every 15M, and on second set of rotors. tire wear is good. Transmission had a chadder in when I bought it and change oil as needed based on chatter, still same trans. It is getting tired and we will run through winter and see how it fairs till spring. Will be over close to or over 300,000. Body is good. We enjoy the ride. Still looking for someone who really knows about the engine, everyone goes you have a what?
Comments
bob
From the name you supplied, I can't be certain this is the same part that had a recall issue. It was a rear suspension component but they are the ones that sit on the side of the frame rail. Probably a different part. I found it hard to believe the recall was issued due a few showing rust. If that part failed the rear suspension could twist under the jeep and cause a loss of steering.
I'm glad you are having good luck with the dealer. may it always be so.
Mine at 110,000 went in for the timing belt replacement. I also requested a new water pump and I specified it must be the Chrysler part. At 135,000 she is still running strong.
I have had my CRD for 2 years, all re-calls were current when I bought it.
Has this come out since then?
Thanks: Bob
I got rid of my '05 about two years ago with just under 80k miles. It got to the point where I coulde not trust the vehicle to be reliable. In addition, parts were becoming "rare" and VERY expensive. I had the 80k warranty and I just did not want to chance keeping it. Just before trading it (for a tacoma). I had the ECM and EGR replaced under warranty. It was the second EGR in 8k miles and fourth in the cars history. The repair would have cost over 1800 dollars without the warranty backing. This final repair was in addition to all the other times the Jeep had been in for repairs that a vehicle with relatively low miles should never have needed.
I feel that Chrysler/Jeep screwed the owners of these cars in the US. They had no dealer support or training for the diesels. I was very disappointed with the vehicle and will never buy a Chrysler or Jeep product again.
Sounds like that dealer didn't see a future in the CRD and neglected to send their tech to school for it. The EGR needed to be replaced with the stainless version. Mine acted up at just 12000 miles and was replaced with the SEGR. It still works good at 100,000+ miles. That suggests their mechanic didn't know there was a better part available.
Sorry you had a bad deal, not all dealers are like that.
There might have been something else causing your trouble as well. Maybe the rings didn't seat properly or ....who knows? My advice to people is always keep paperwork. Once you are past the warranty mileage you can still go back to issues that came up during warranty and by calling a field rep you can sometimes get them to make amends.
What you ended up with was extreme. Mine just now needed a new EGR at 130,000 miles. So the good one lasted from about 12K to 130K. Now with all new EGR and turbo hoses it runs like a scalded cat so I am certain the intake is not all caked up nor the valves. I certainly hope the people who did the repairs have asked you to return for a check up to see if the problem is resurfacing. If the rings were never seated properly all this will come back soon.
I feel terrible that you had all this trouble when it should never have happened. I would write a letter to corporate and let them know all the problems you had due to a dealer who did not properly diagnose the issues with your CRD. you might get some compensation out of it. I heard of a guy who documented all the problems he had with a product. He kept EVERY piece of paper. Corporate gave him a huge discount on his choice of new vehicles since he had already sold the troublesome one and was driving an old clunker.
IF id is the TQ spend the additional and go with the SunCoast and you should be set for life.
Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? If so, have the front tires re-balanced
Best ofr luck: Bob
there are so many things it could be. U joint that gets some harmonic vibe from the engine, the engine mount as suggested, the turbo engaging at very low rpm in a high gear.
I mention harmonics because when things can vibrate they sometimes get other things to vibrate with them at a certain speed or a rpm. That is why it would occur only under certain conditions.
Wishing you luck with that.
Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.
The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.
Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.
So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.
Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
Wrong oil might cause a bearing problem with the turbo.
If it was NOT full synthetic it might not be able to take the heat, start breaking down and cause the seals to go or the bearing itself to get wobbly and blow the seal.
Another issue that is very important. If your driving has made the turbo work even a bit hard, the turbo and all its housing and bearings will be HOT. The engine should not be turned off suddenly with a hot turbo. The heat is normally carried away by the normal operation of the engine. Turning the engine off allows heat to build up to even higher temperatures then while pulling hard under load. I'm not saying you ruined the turbo because the wrong oil could definitely do that. I'm saying that the engine should never be turned off suddenly if the turbo is hot.
Around town if you have to accelerate hard to move through traffic even that can be enough to heat the turbo. Idling in traffic counts as cool down time so I always do a mental check on how much idle time in between acceleration there is. I normally park and sit for just a minute or two before turning the engine off. Driving on the interstate I use a second key in the ignition, exit and lock the door with my remote leaving the engine running. You can't manually lock the door with the key in. That way when I need to hit the rest room in a hurry, I can let it idle while I'm inside.
I have used full synthetic oil ever since my first oil change. I usually do it at 6,000 but on occasion it has gone past that mark with no harm done. My Liberty now has 135,000 miles on the original turbo with no problems from the turbo itself. I had an oil leak when the EGR failed and plugged up the oil separator but the turbo is fine.
If the shop put the wrong oil in, you might be able to go back on them, IF you have the receipts. That would show which oil they used based on the price. If you think they charged you for synthetic and gave you standard oil you can send a sample to an analysis center and that will give you a full report on exactly what that oil is. They could be held liable for ignoring procedure. That IS what we pay them for.
Good luck with your problems, hope you figure it out.
When I learned at a Jeep Camporee the CRD was coming to the US, I knew right then I wanted one. I calculated if it only got 25 mpg and diesel was 40cents higher per gallon, I would still be driving for less then the gas unit. City driving really tears into mpg so don't be too hard on yours if it seems you are not doing well.
It doesn't take much throttle to activate that turbo. I actually think I would prefer to delay the turbo a bit later but I'm not sure if that can be done. When the turbo starts spooling you might not realize it because it comes up gradually. The variable vane turbo is very smooth. Whenever that turbo is working the system has to add fuel to maintain a proper burn so it is like you are feeding six cylinders instead of four.
When the hose from the turbo split I could hear air hissing even at moderate throttle so that turbo is working way before you realize it. That's why she pulls so strong even below 1500rpm with maybe 1/3 throttle. I could hear mine working through that split hose. It would be helpful to install a boost gauge, then you could see when it is working and maybe learn how not to spool it up.
I'm going to ask my diesel tech about the boost gauge and see what he says.
Best of luck to all you folks. Here's hoping you have a great weekend.
The transmission is the biggest variable depending on what you pull with it and how often you change fluid. And what fluid you use. Should be good to 200,000 since it is the heavy duty version. They found out early on the torque convertor wasn't tough enough for all that torque so recalls were made on that.
The EGR is demonstrating it is only good for about 100-120K. Mine only cost $270 at the dealer. Don't let them over charge for that and make certain they stick to the manpower hours or they will whack you for labor. If you are slender and a bit agile you can do it at home but it can really try your patience as it is a tight spot.
All the other stuff is about the same as for a gas powered Libby.
Be careful out there and keep on chuggin............
Anyone got any ideas????? I will lose two gallons a week easily.
I actually did love the car, but now I will possibly be spending about 5K on an engine with 105K miles. A new engine is about 6K. I am at a loss as to who can fix this thing. Dealer or outside shop. It is hard to find anyone to work on it. I dont know if I can actually afford to sell it.
Before doing anything else however, replace your radiator cap. If it is not sealing you will loose water through evaporation and if that is the case, it is a heck of a lot cheaper.
Pur a Provent system on your crd to cut down on engine problems, it will take alot of the gunk out of the smog set up that causes turbo and EGR failure.
Best of luck: Bob
Coolant might be the water pump as one other mentioned.
I am going to stick my neck out and suggest you have the water pump replaced when you have the timing belt done. The labor is only a fraction more because they have tear the same things apart to get at it.
I'm not sure why you would be looking at replacing an engine with only 105K miles. that engine should easily go to 300,00 before needing new rings or any machine work.
Make certain you are using approved FULL synthetic oil. It is so much cleaner and with that pesky EGR system you need the oil as clean as possible. Don't worry about changing brands so long as they have the ratings listed in the owners manual. Buy what is on sale and change it at least every 6K.
Maybe it helps the engine as well as fuel, I add fuel treatment at least every other tank in the summer and every tank in the winter. That keeps water out of the system and must help clean injectors because mine now has 145K and it runs better then when new.
I hope you can find a good mechanic who goes to diesel school on a regular basis. Brydens, the Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge dealer in Beloit, WI has a guy who really knows his stuff. He did my timing belt and water pump and it cost $1200. I've heard horror stories about dealers charging $2-3,000 for that.
I got rid of the jeep and bought a brand new car Mazda with a 6 yr. warranty
NO MORE PROBLEMS
Best of luck.
Unless we get the check-engine light out, the car won't pass the emission inspection required in our state. Evidently it isn't that easy because we can't find anyone who will work on it for less than $3,000, including the Jeep dealerships. Evidently it's a major hassle requiring special tools and removal of the cylinder head, EGR valve, etc. (unless we got bad information). A diesel mechanic told us to just replace the #2 glow plug (with a metal one) and put it back together. He said there's a good chance the broken-off piece has already been pulverized and gone through the engine without damaging it. However, he declined to work on it himself.
This seems to be about the only choice we have. Hopefully the check-engine light will go out, it will pass the emission test, and we will be able to get the tags renewed. Then we will probably trade it. It's been a good car but it's not worth the problems these factory-installed ceramic glow plugs can present.
Glow plugs themselves are expendable items, so if they just wear out, that's normal. Breaking is not normal of course.
Dose any one still have their CRD on the road? Mine is at 120k, 2006 she needs some work done. Possibly the bearings and a exhaust leak (minor into cab). At this point I'm deciding whether to fix and keep on keeping on or to sell (possibly part out).
Any opinions? Or CRD collectors with help on how go about this?
water pump, timing belt, thermostat,and one rear sway bar in between. Out west it pushed 32 mpg. east coast 22-24 summer fuel, winter mpg is a flat 20 . Use Rotella synthetic change oil every 5m, fuel filter every 15M, and on second set of rotors. tire wear is good.
Transmission had a chadder in when I bought it and change oil as needed based on chatter, still same trans. It is getting tired and we will run through winter and see how it fairs till spring. Will be over close to or over 300,000.
Body is good. We enjoy the ride.
Still looking for someone who really knows about the engine, everyone goes you have a what?