Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

xlaurax362

Back again, this time with a new problem! My '02 Jetta GLS recently has been stalling. This has been intermittent as it would only happen once every couple of months, up until now. Here are the symptoms: as I'm driving my car, it feels as if it's not shifting into gear properly (I have automatic transmission), then finally after some time of driving my steering wheel feels as if it's locked up and my car eventually stalls on me (thankfully I've been able to pull over both times), once it stalls and turns off, the red battery light comes on. After several attempts of turning it on, pressing the gas, keeping it at high RPMs for sometime, etc. it still turns off if I let it get to low RPMs.

A variation of this has also happened to me when I've driven through puddles or in the rain - my car doesn't shift propertly and eventually feels as if it's going to stall. Any ideas as to what's going on? My CEL has also been on for some time and I was told I needed to replace the O2 sensor, is this related?

Thanks!

bpeebles

Diagnosing a stalling problem can be difficult. I applaud that you were able to describe most of the symptoms quite well. (You may be surprised how many folks append here asking us to resolve some kind of problem but do not even describe what the problem is.)

When you feel that the steering-wheel is locked up and the battery light comes on... this means that the engine has stopped running and is not spinning the power-steering pump and alternator. In other words, this is just a symptom of a stalled engine and may not be related to the root problem in any way.

The problem you describe after going thru a puddle is most likely your ignition system. (sparkplug wires getting wet and shorting out the spark to the cylinders for a few moments)

After the above - What we have left is still your stalling problem which is not easy to diagnose. At this point I cannot even narrow it down to Fuel, Ignition or electrical.

Can you perhaps describe the CONDITIONS under which your car stalls. (Wet, Cold, turning right, turning left, Below 1/2 tank fuel, Accellerating, Highway....etc) Basicly anything that can help us narrow in on what is happening?

jeffyscott

bpeebles, sounds like you agree with VW that G12 antigreeze never has to be changed. I am curious if this just based on VW so stating or have come to your own informed conclusion on this? Others?

I am a long way from needing to think about this, as we have a 2005. I had figured that this would be something I'd look into when the car is about 10 years old, but since the topic has come up, I thought I'd see what people think about this.

Our other newish car has a long life antifreeze (Mazda calls it FL22), but the manual says to change at 10 years.

ruking1

Either are infinitely verifiable. Used Antifreeze Analysis, aka, UAA's can be done just like UOA's. Depending on your years or miles level of paranoia, you can take a sample and send it away for analysis.

jodar96

Thank you for your comments specially your intake manifold design desription. I figured you did not need to remove the manifold to get to the plugs. I don't have water pump problem. My point was a bad plastic impeller design and I do have every intention of using brass impeller W/P when I do the TB and W/P next summer.

I think you got confused about what issue I had. I just had an erratic hot engine where the temp gage climbed, so I replaced the thermostat.

I do like VW's for the way they drive and handle. Their reliability is nothing to brag about but the way they handle no Honda or Toyota can touch. I had a brand new 1985 Jetta 5 speed, put 180K miles on it. It was a great car. The gearing ratio makes the RPM run high. You feel like you need a 6th gear. I had a 92 325i that has similar gearing.

Taking about oil filter changes... I have had two Accords. I rather jack up the car and get to the filter than drip over power steering hoses and engine block with the filter sitting in the front. Filter changes are messier in 2.0L VW than in Hondas. I don't know about other VW engines. My 85 Jetta did not have power steering or spalsh guards to mess with, but the filter in it was in the same place. Actually it could be the same filter.

I do have issues with items that are lifetime like coolants or automatic transmissions that they claim it never requires service.....really?

Will report back on my son's Jetta if any Prestone coolant related issue comes up. If I learn a lesson, I would like you all to know.

Joe

600kgolfgt

The coil pack may be the culprit. The earlier coilpacks have been known to crack, allowing moisture to enter. This can cause the car to either stall, or shut down completely. Check and replace the coilpack, and that should resolve the stalling issue.

ruking1

I think the comments were offered up on (my) the assumption that no body on this thread wants to see have that kind of experience.

cjlloyd

I have a 2002 VW Jetta with 100,000 miles on it. I bought the car used. Sense i have owned the car i have had troble with it shifting (its an automatic). When i accelerate it seems to stumble or jerk in to gear. It doesn't do this every time and its normally around 3 gear or so. I have taken it to several shops and they have told me nothing is wrong with my transmission. Recently i have had and issue with my electrical system. It started a few months ago when i noticed that my tripomeder was reset to 0 miles and my clock was reset when i got in the car. then it progressed to were im driving down the road coming to a stop or already stopped and the car loses compete electrical power and the engine turns off. The electric comes back on and i can put my car in park and it turns on with out any problem. It does not happen all the time and it has happen both during the day and at night. And still sometimes when i park my car and then come back to it at the end of the day and i see that the time and the tripomider is reset. I was told that it could be something with my fuel injector that causes the stumbling and for the engine to stall but that does not explain why i lose electrical power does it? I appreciate any insight you can provide to me!

brooklyntech

I had the same problem. I also have a 2002 jetta GLS. It is probably a transmission sensor. There are a few sensors. My car was not switching speeds correctly which makes the car jump when it is changing shifts. Unfortunately only the dealer can fix this problem. My problem was the sensor inside the tramsmission, which meant that they had to drop the tranny to replace sensor. If you're lucky it wont be that one.

cjlloyd

Im sorry but i don't know to much about cars, but wouldn't some kind of error come up when you scan the cars computer. Also would they check the sensors when i bring my car in complaining about transmission problems? I was told by several master techs that i didn't have a transmission problem. But thanks for the advice i will try to look more into that and other advice on my post would be great especially the turning off issue i am having. Thanks again for your quick responses.

djniko

I had the same problem with my 04 jetta, After going to the STEALERSHIP and leaving with no answer I went my mechanic who simply said the drain plugs were clogged and being so the rain water or if you went through a car wash, the water needed a place to go. To fix this problem locate your drain plugs, then drive to a local gas station using the air house put it up against the plugs and blow. My mechanic told me leaves or dirt builds up and after awhile stops the flow of the plugs. This will fix your problem of a wet drivers side floor board.

jodar96

Does anyone know what is the issue here?

The 2.0L manual has 93K miles. It had on and off starting problem. No cranking at all. when you turn the key all light are dim and when you turn the key to crank position, all lights just fade and you hear a click click click inside and NOT atthe starter. When you are outside the car, and push the remote the light are very dim.

My mechanic gone through all kind of connection cleaning and tightening for $270. When the car acted up again, he came to my house and checked everything again and said it is for sure the starter.

I replaced the starter myself back on Oct 5th. since then the car has been prefect with every crank. two days ago, it started acting up again. He came over again, and checked the battery, check the ignition wire going to the starter, and the ground to starter. Everything checked OK. but when we plugged the starter wire back to to the starter, all lights were strong, and it started right up. He said I will be wasting money by replacing a year old battery or the ignition switch.

He is to check on line with other VW mechanics to see what they can tell him.

autoboy16

I was wondering, I noticed that some mkiv Jettas have the steeringwheel audio controls and what not. two of the cars i test drove had them. Unfortunately, they only had the cassette deck. :sick:

I was wondering if I were to get a new audio system with CD player and Aux jack, would the I still be able to use the steering wheel audio controls? I searched the web but mostly found info about changing steering wheels. :mad: :sick:

Any Info appriciated. THX!!

Btw, they were 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 4AT. The 02 did not have them.

-Cj

autoboy16

I ACTUALLY KNOW THIS ONE!! DEAD or almost dead battery.

I was cleaning my neighbors Beetle's interior. I needed to vaccum the car so I pluged it up and turned the key to the on position. Little did I know, the DRLs(Daytime Running Lights) were on the entire time! Ok anywho, the radio dimmed out, the lights inside faded away, and the power windows reminded me of my 95 accord's (SUPER SLOW). Then I tried to start the car and it was just loud clicking almost sounding like the Wheel of (mis)fortune and the car wouldn't start.

I loooked that up online and saw that that is VW's way of having a dead/dying battery. Next we just jump started the car and all was fine. We just let it run for about 10mins before turning it off.

If this is constantly happening to you, I think that your altenator may need replacing because it will not hold a charge.

hope this helps!

BTW, the next day her beetle's key snapped in half... It was a make shift key, not the switchblade or old style key. Anyone know how to get the switchblade key for a reasonable price that doesn't include paying $350 to the dealership for ONE key? This would be good for her because she really needs a key and me because all the Jetta i've been shopping around for only have one switchblade key .

-Cj

bpeebles

I agree with above appender - your description sure sounds like a weak battery. It is curious that your "mechanic" did not identify all those symptoms as a weak battery.

NOW: The big question is "Is the battery bad or is it not charging?"

You can easilly test for either of these conditions. Most autoparts stores (AutoZone...etc) will charge and test your battery for free.

WallyMart sells a tester which plugs into your ciggerette-lighter socket for about $12. It can monitor your charging system while you drive. It is a great addition to any toolbox.

JettaStu

A little over a year ago I bought a used 97 Jetta VR6. Honestly I didnt really look at the "only use special coolant" Till after i filled it up. There was always some odd gurgling noise after I turned the car off. I wasnt sure if this was from the wrong coolant or something wrong with the non working A/C.

I tried starting her up a couple of months ago and didnt seem like it had enough juice tried to get a friend to jump start it and or charge battery but now its not doing anything.

I was just wondering how detrimental it is not to use the right coolant and how hard changing alternators is on jetta.

jodar96

Against my mechanic's advise, I will get a new battery and see what happens. I have seen batteries with dead or partially dead cells prefect one minute and dead the next. The battery is one year old, but that does not mean a whole lot.

The big sign of acting up, is the remote key, when I unlock/lock the car, flashers/horn are very weak.

Last night when it did not start in the driveway, I took off /plugged back in the ignition switch to starter wire, and that did not help. Then I started pushing and releasing the clutch pedal 6-7 times, while trying to crank, then all of a sudden it started right up.

I will buy that gadget from Walmart that someone suggested and will monitor the charging system. I will also stop at Autozone and have them check both the battery and the alternator.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Joe

autoboy16

I'm kinda in a rush so I'll post a link to the VwVortex MKIII Faqs Board. Just scroll down to see what you are looking for.

Good Luck!!
-Cj

robin52228

While driving to work today my car stoppedaccelerating when I gave it gas. I rolled to the sidee of the road and was able to put it in park. It will start up and idle as usual. The ehaust system lit up solid yellow and all the gear settings (P N....) flashed red. I had it towed to the dealership which was ironically 2 blocks away!! Any heads up as to what to expect? I have a 2006 Jetta TDI.

Mr_Shiftright

Well with a diesel we always suspect a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel. Perhaps a dead fuel pump?

robin52228

It's getting fuel and idles smoothly s usual. When I put in in drive it just would not go. It revs when I give it gas, just will not engage and drive. No previous symptoms just driving down the road and then no response from the transmittion. I can put it in PARK and shift through the gears. Because it did not rev up on its own I ruled out serpentine/timing chain, but not completely. Hoping it's just a sensor, maybe?!? My transmittsion has not given me any problems, no noises,etc.

jcase16

Our 2004 Jetta is having major issues with the door open alarm. It used to only turn on whenever we made a right turn. We figured out that it is the driver's door that causes the alarm. It will usually go off if you turn right or if you put pressure down on the doors "arm rest".

Has anyone else seen this issue? Any ideas on how to fix it? I drive a 2004 Jetta 2.0L and I believe it is a GLS.

Mr_Shiftright

Hard to say from this distance with such a total and sudden transmission failure. Maybe you'll be lucky and it's just a linkage issue. Anyway, there should be trouble codes to read to give the mechanic some direction here. It's a rather odd situation, as you describe it.

bpeebles

Do not forget that the HOOD and the TRUNK also can trip the open-door light.

wtknght1

I'm new to this forum, but wanted input from anyone/everyone on the timing belts. My wife's 2003 Jetta 1.8T and her friend at work and one of my friends at work have all experienced timing belt breaks...and subsequent severe engine damage. VW corporate has refused to help because it's out of the 60K warranty. The service guide says to replace them at 105K.

I'd like to know if anyone else had issues with these belts on cars that had between 60-105K. If so, please let me know. I've contacted a lawyer and am planning a class action lawsuit against VW - because this should not happen. When the belt breaks, it trashes the engine. Timing belts should never break, much less at 100K miles or earlier.

Please let me know so we can get this fixed and wake the folks at VW up. I for one will never purchase a VW and am going to tell everyone I know to stay away from these junk cars!!!!!

Chris Ingle
wtknght1@aol.com

jodar96

I agree with you. A timing belt should not break under 100K. If VW is not sure of the belt life, it should stick to 60K replacement and not 100K. It is not the belt as much as the engine design and how much load goes on the belt.

Audi engines and some Hondas are the same way. It is always wise to know this when buying a car.

Joe

bpeebles

NEWS FLASH - The 1.8t is an Audi engine.

Even Audi specs the 1.8T TB replacment interval at 60K or 80K miles. VW may have made a grave mistake specing it at 105K miles.

To more specifically answer your question.... I did a quick search of the internet for this subject and found MANY folks that had their TB break before 105K miles.... I would suspect there is a class-action suit on the way :surprise:

HOWEVER: I beleive that VW also speced an interval for the TB to be inspected at 40K and 80K.... If you cannot prove that your TB was inspected at the proper intervals, you may be SOL on this one.

jeffyscott

You are correct, timing belt check at 40 and 80 K mi:

http://www.vw.com/dealer/MaintenanceSchedulesQuery.do?year=2003&engineCode=1.8T&- carModel=JETTA&TEMPLATENAME=maintenanceComplete&output=print

mardy930

most likely the crank position sensor.Check you engine fault codes.

pbc

Hello,

My wife has a 2000 VW Jetta with about 140,000KM on it. Recently, the heater doesn't seem to get hot at all. Sometimes it does (very rarely), but for the most part it just gets luke warm.

I understand this could be the cause of the thermostat not opening? Is this something that is easy to replace on these cars (seems nothing is!).

Could there be another issue?

Thanks!

Steve

bpeebles

What is the temparture guage telling you? If it says that the engine is up to operating temp... then the problem is likely NOT the thermostat.

cosmo

An easy way to diagnose a faulty thermostat is to drive up a long hill and then coast down a long hill. If the temp gauge approaches or reaches normal operating temperature going uphill, then drops coasting down hill, the thermostat is very likely stuck in the open position. An alternative method during winter is to drive the car with the heater off until the temp gauge reads normal, then turn the heater up to the max. If the temp gauge drops, the thermostat is probably stuck in the open position.

edgekrusher187

On my way into work this morning the temp gauge on my Jetta hit the max, and there was suddenly no heat coming from the heating vents. I did notice that the gauge would drop when going down a hill or sitting at a light. Any one have any ideas? It's almost -10 degrees outside and a long way for me to drive. I don't want to blow up my engine, but at the same time I have no alternate way to get to work. Thanks for any help.

bpeebles

I assume that your coolant-level is correct in the resivour.

From your description of the symptoms... it sounds as if you have one or more of the following;
1)Ice in the cooling system blocking coolant flow (highly unlikely)
2)Waterpump which is not moving the coolant as it should. (known to happen with the plastic waterpump impeller)
3)Thermostat which is acting up (Not likely because you were getting NO HEAT when the guage was at max)
4) Guage wrong (Again ...Not likely because you were getting NO HEAT when the guage was at max)

hvaldez

Hello. I'm new to the V.W. family. I have a 1999 Jetta III and the rear defrosters do not work. Is there a fuse or a sensor that I need to check?? Thanks. Helen

Mr_Shiftright

Hi Helen,

Yes it's #9 fuse in the fuse panel, a 20 amp.

hvaldez

Thanks Mr. Shiftright for going out of your way and telling me @ the fuse panel and the amp #20. God Bless you!! Helen

brooklyntech

I need the lighter to connect a radar detector but it does not work. That's funny because the one on the trunk works fine. Does anybody have any ideas why this is?

Mr_Shiftright

Sometimes its a fuse problem but very often what happens is that people use this socket for various accessories, some of them not such expensive gadgets, and the plug in on these gadgets doesn't quite fit the receptacle in the car. So things get stuck, people start yanking, and before you know it, the wire behind the socket has pulled out, behind the dashboard.

backy

I'm posting this here because it seems to be more active than the Jetta 1999-2005 discussion. I just bought a 2005 Jetta GL 2.0L. It's in excellent condition, really can't tell it from a new car except for looking at the odometer (47k). But I am concerned about the brake feel. The brakes feel "mushy" to me. That is, they don't grab until my foot is almost to the floor, and if I continue to press hard on the pedal it sinks slowly almost to the floor. I mentioned this before I bought it, and the sales rep (long-time VW guy) drove the car and said the feel seemed normal to him. I realize different cars have different brake feel, and the car I traded (2000 328Ci) has a very firm brake feel. The rep said, drive it a few days and bring it back if it still concerned me, and they'd check into it.

I did some checking online and noticed there was a recall on 2005 Jettas for the brake master cylinder. This is a VW Certified car, purchased new and serviced where I bought it, and I would expect all of the recalls to have been taken care of... but maybe not? The car has about 20 warranties on it (well, not 20, but at least 4: original factory warranty through 1/15, 2-year VW Certified warranty after that, the dealer's own 30-day/1000 mile warranty, and an 8-year bumper-to-bumper warranty I got in order to avoid unexpected repair costs). So if there is a problem with the brakes other than normal wear/tear, it should be covered.

Those of you who know these cars, what is the "normal" brake feel? Is it typically "mushy", or should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer?

Mr_Shiftright

Well if you are standing still and you press as hard as you can, and you can't get your left foot under the pedal after your right foot has pressed down on it, you have a problem. My wild guess is that you have badly worn rear brake pads and that the dealer must have missed that---or you have a master cylinder problem---or you have a small hydraulic leak.

I don't think that is correct about the master cylinder recall. There was a recall for the brake light switch. Do you know this for certain? My records don't show it at any rate but they may be incomplete.

backy

Thanks, that's good info. I'll check the clearance the next time I go out.

Here is the recall info, from edmunds.com ("Maintenance, Recalls and TSBs" page for the 2005 Jetta GL):

Nature of Defect:
3. SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS:MASTER CYLINDER
Recall Number: 07E023000
Dates Manufactured: N/A to N/A
Number of Vehicles Affected: 13128
Date Owners Notified On: N/A
Vehicle: 2005 Volkswagen Jetta

Defect Description:
CERTAIN CARDONE MASTER CYLINDERS WITH DATE CODES LOWER THAN DCA7078 SOLD AS REPLACEMENT EQUIPMENT FOR USE ON THE VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. THE SEAL ON MASTER CYLINDER CAN FAIL AND LEAK BRAKE FLUID.

Consequence of Defect:
LOSS OF BRAKE FLUID CAN RESULT IN POOR BRAKING PERFORMANCE, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH.

Corrective Action:
CARDONE WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND OFFER TO REPURCHASE ANY DEFECTIVE MASTER CYLINDERS. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING APRIL 2007. OWNERS CAN CONTACT CARDONE AT 1-800-777-4780.

Mr_Shiftright

Okay well this might not appear then in VW service records at the dealer? This appears to be a supplier's issue, not a VW issue. You'd best call Cardone and find out what #s are affected!

backy

I'm going to let the dealer handle it on Monday. They should have records of recall work on the car. Also I am going to ask to see the VW Certified inspection report, see what it said about the brakes.

bpeebles

To specifically answer your questions...

Those of you who know these cars, what is the "normal" brake feel?
VW brakes have always been firm and almost "touchy". Anything more than the pressue of my big toe would make the passengers lunge forward against their seatbelts. (I do know a guy with a Porsche that has better brakes than my Jetta - LOL)

Is it typically "mushy", or should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer?
I would be concerned! The first thing to do is the have the brake-fluid replaced and the hydrolic system fully bled. Bleed the ABS pump and clutch too! (The clutch fluid is 'shared' with the brake master-cylinder) Use only DOT4 fluid in VW systems.

Are you aware that on ALL vehicles, brake fluid should be replaced every 2-3 years reguardless of miles? Your car is due for its SECOND brake-fluid change in 2009.

Just so you are aware of my experinece with VW brakes... I have been servicing the brakes on all of my personal vehicles for many-many years. (Because I do not trust most so-called mechanics.) I have owned VWs since my 1979 Scirocco. I replaced the brakes on 3 VWs this summer. (including using laptop computer to bleed the ABS pump and valving.)

smitteyb11

Hey guys...

Owner of a 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0/4 CYL manual TRAN.

The check engine light has been on since a week after I bought it used. Many different codes, VW says its the computer. Don't have $1,000 to drop into it.

Last December it began to sputter and go through an ENTIRE tank of gas in 100 miles. or about 8 miles/GAL. Multiple misfires whenever I drove it. Replaced the 1 and 2 forward O2 Sensors and that cleared up the problem.

Now again, 1 year later the problem is back. It may very well be the O2 sensors and if it is, that is fine I accept that. But my question is, what it causing this? Why are the O2 sensors going bad after 10,000 miles? I run 87 octane in it and from what I've read that is fine, but willing to switch if it will help the vehicle.

I am receiving a P1128 code which points toward the mass air flow sensor, but that was replaced to no avail. Check engine light was still on. Thats when VW told me it was the computer.

I appreciate any help or ideas. Thanks!

backy

Thanks! I will take this info with me when I go to the dealer tomorrow. I will request (the polite way to say it) that they verify that the brake system and hydraulic system have been bled recently, or do it now. The car is an automatic so no clutch to bleed.

revmarket

Where did you buy the MAF sensor from?
Does it have a warranty?
If so get it replaced again.
If the code says MAF sensor then that is probably your problem.
This can cause bad MPG.
Misfiring of the engine.
As the fuel air ratio is not correct and the computer tries to compensate for bad information from the MAF sensor.
Check the wiring connections.
CRC makes a MAF sensor cleaner.
Buy at an auto parts store.
My Autozone has them.
Spray that into the MAF sensor with the sensor off of the car.
Reinstall the MAF sensor.
Then run the car.
See if that clears up the issue first.
If it does then make sure your air filter is still good.
If cleaning does not help then buy an after market MAF sensor that has a warranty and if it goes bad again use the warranty.
Usually at Autozone it is a one year warranty.
This of course if for re-manufactured ones.

bpeebles

Do not use start replacing things because a "code" says there is a problem. There is NEVER a "code" that says "replace the MAF" The "codes" are simply factoids that need to be understood in the larger scheme of things.

Only boneheaded mechanics who want to make $$ selling you parts will try to tell you that a "code" told them that a part was bad. Perhaps they do not want or know how to UNDERSTAND what the "code" is telling them.

Examples;
*)If a code says that the "MAF sensed too little airflow"... then you should check for air leaks. NOT replace the MAF.
*)If O2 sensors are telling you there is too much oxygen in the exhaust... then suspect plugged injectors or low fuelPressure.

To more specifically answer your question about O2 sensors going bad prematurly....An O2 sensor should last over 100,000 miles. Its life is shortend if your engine is buring oil or blowing antifreeze out the exhaust. That will contaminate the O2 sensors.

Lets use some LOGIC against your specific problem:
"P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Lean" This is NOT necessarrly related to the MAF because MAF does not measure 'leanness'.... the O2 sensors measure 'leanness'
Instead, This means that the O2 sensor is telling the computer that there is not enough fuel being sensed in the exhaust based on how much air the MAF is measuring. So, to compensate, the computer is injecting more and more fuel in an effort to satisfy the O2 sensor. The problem is that the O2 sensor is telling the computer the WRONG INFORMATION. Thus, you are burning way too much fuel.

I am surprised that your CEL is not *flashing* because running this rich can burn out your catalytic converter. Speaking of catalytic converter.... I am thinking that yours may already be burned up.

You should also check/replace all vacuum lines. A vacuum leak can cause this kind of problem and the vacuum lines are cheap and easy to repalce. Any air leaking into the system AFTER the MAF is not measured by the MAF... (but is getting into the engine)

One simple way to check for bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical connector from it and then start engine and drive for a few days. (This WILL lite the CEL) Check if the engine runs better without MAF connected.

Above, I have given you a start in how how to diagnose your problem... I will let you continue from here...

backy

Update on brake problem: took it into the dealer today. Service manager drove it, admitted the brakes did seem soft. He also said the brake system had been flushed before the car was offered for sale and the brakes have to have at least 50% left to be VW Certified. He thought maybe some air had gotten into the brake system during the flush. They kept the car for the day (gave me a loaner, including gas) and bled the brake system including ABS, and road tested it. The brakes do feel a little firmer now, and there is more clearance under the pedal when pressed hard. But they are still not anything close to a "firm" feel as I would think of firm. I'll keep an eye on it; if it is a leaking hydraulic system or bad master cylinder, that would be covered under the Certified warranty... assuming I'm not killed due to brake failure.