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On another note: I'm kinda irritated that VW came out with a 201 hp vr6 right after I bought mine. And mine IS a 2002 GLX, but still has the 174 hp engine. Bad timing.
J.M. Florida
As far as my 99.5 new Jetta, (2.0, auto) its been pretty good with some gremlins but nothing to sour me. FWIW, my rear brakes went first also at around 38K but the fronts are still good at 45K. The only thing that annoys me, besides dealer service is the 2 sec delay in the auto trans in shifting from D to R or R to D (also 'normal!')
Right now I am thinking of trading for a Camry or Passat just because I want something a little larger. VW makes a good machine with a lot going for it but sometimes spotty reliability and VERY questionable dealer service is a drawback. Camry is generally reliable and comfortable as an old sweatshirt but to get the same equipment then the price goes UP.
My question is this... this past October (four months ago), the oxygen sensor in my 2000 Jetta malfunctioned and had to be replaced, at a hefty price of about $500 (parts&labor). It certainly sounds to me like VW has acknowledged that this was a defective part. Is there any way I can be reimbursed for the repair? If you have any advice on how I should go about this, who i should contact, etc, i would really appreciate it. Thank you!
Thanks
After I got the car back, I noticed that the wheel shaking had not gone away. But worse is that the car feels much softer in turns than it did (like a caddy, not a vw) before I brought in it for service. My question is: is their an adjustment of the shocks or some other part which they could have made which would cause the ride to be softer?
There are various service shops that specialize in Imports that you can check into. This would be a great improvement over the dealer. Ask around.
Doing it yourself would be the most economical, though. I get to do that this weekend. Wish me luck.
Thanks.
For the 40,000 mile service, the TDI models include a timing belt change. That would make up for the bulk of the $400. Check if they are charging you for a timing belt change
The mechanic should apply a mechanical oil pressure gauge and determine hot oil pressure. If this is low, and given that you have a new pump, I think you'd have to tear the engine down then.
You could also do a cylinder leakdown test prior to tear-down.
Also, I haven't heard of plastic oil pumps? Is that right?
I have the part. However, the fuel lines were pretty tight and I was afraid of breaking something. Two screw drivers aren't my idea of a gentle leverage device. Also, I wasn't quite sure how to bleed the pressure in the lines.
Any advice? Thanks.
Side molding falling off.
Rear windows work intermittently.
Tires leak constantly.
Plastic door knobs break when it is cold.
Others???
Thank you
Rear windows work intermittently--dirty switch contacts. Pull and clean with electronic cleaner spray (careful, it can damage paint or upholstery!).
Tires leak constantly--rim leaks. Common problem, Good tire shop can fix this or you have a bent rim.
Plastic door knobs break when it is cold--well, I don't have a fix for that one. Don't pull so hard.
The windows do not work because the wiring harness in the rear doors is placed incorrectly therefore snipping the wires after the door jam breaks through the harness. My dealer had a great way to fix it. They spliced it together while under warranty and told me they could not recreate the problem, when it was out of warranty the problem was suddenly the harness needing to be replaced. The splicing was so obvious with electrical tape in there etc...
Side Molding falling off, sure that is an easy fix if the molding falls off in your garage. What if it falls off without noticing it is gone. Now having to replace it before the lease ends. OH and this has happened repeadetly with 3 of the four moldings.
Thank you but try again.
I have used the adhesive on my moulding to repair, luckily I repaired this before they fell off.
Rear Windows work intermittently - I will try the solution suggested by Mr_Shiftright (Thanks in advance). I have fixed the other back window that fell off the track due to a tiny broken "plastic" piece in the window guide. Judging by the quality of this piece, I suspect this could be a common problem.
No tire leakage yet.
Plastic door knobs break off - Yes, I have two broken door knobs and I remember breaking them by pulling them (not excessively) and was wondering what the heck is going on? Isn't that what these parts are made for?
Overall the powertrain seems to be fine with these cars its just the accessories and interior parts are pieces of junk.
what is your point? i am lost. you are saying these items are wrong with your car. so fix them. or give the car back. i must be missing something. what are you hoping to accomplish here. i would love to offer an opinion or advice - not sure what you are asking.
target:
in my opinion, having had two current gen Jettas, one VR6 and now a turbo, it is not the engine that causes the delay. it is the automatic transmission. just part of the car. any delay in a manual would have to be drivers error, or an actual engine malfunction, causing any number of red lights to flash on the dash board.
i have an automatic turbo now, and yes, stop and go traffic, switching lanes, etc, can be tricky. the car JUMPS. have to be careful.
Hesitation in D-R. Lurching.
Knocking sound at exactly 40mph.
Grinding noise while turning from the steering
Shifting gears erratic.
Lotsa door scratches onthe silver paint.
What can you contribute? Please tell me. I gotta know. SERIOUSLY. Can you answer that question for me? Not joking. You don't have to answer, and I know you probably won't/can't, but I figure it is worth a shot. So I will ask again:
What are you contributing, or ever hope to contribute, to a VW Jetta board, when you own a car that is the complete opposite of a Jetta? How are you helping?
teo, please keep the wind-ups outta here. We're not starting an imports vs. domestics (futile) argument in this forum too.
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A few days ago, they were fixing something (irrelevant), and I asked them to look at my cruise control, because it had been cutting out once in a while. They informed me that it was shot.
So two days later, I'm driving to work, doing about 65 mph, with the cruise set. All of the sudden, the engine seemed to stop (I'm not sure how else to explain this). It was as if I had slammed on the brakes. I was thrown forward (luckily I had my seatbelt on), the airbag light went on (but they didn't deploy). It only lasted for a second, and the car was still running. I pulled off the side of the road, placed the car in park, and then it stalled.
It started up again, and I got it home okay.
My question is: What in the WORLD could have caused this? Did they goof when they were checking the cruise control two days prior? Forget to plug it back in correctly?
It's been two days. It's in the same shop right now, and they just called me to tell me the same thing they told me on Monday. The cruise control is shot. They said this "could" cause an electrical problem. Oh, and, by the way, that will be $50 for having us look at it again.
This answer is NOT good enough!
Does anyone know???
Thank you!!!
Carry on fellas...