Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

13031333536131

Comments

  • frogoliofrogolio Member Posts: 8
    yettibutt, I have a 2000 Jetta 1.8T and this is the layout on mine. I assume your's is not too different.

    The pollen filter is located under the dash on the passanger side. You can access it from the engine compartment. On the passanger's side there is a panel with a few screws right next to right (passanger side) wiper arm. Pull that out and the pollen filter is nicely tucked in there.

    The spark plugs were a bit of a surpirse to me. Remove the plastic cover over your engine and there should be 4 (or 6) black square caps with what looks like an epoxy resin iside. Each has two screws. These are the spark plug cable connections. It was weird seeing these and no typical spark plug cables. I scratched my head for a few minutes before I decided, what the heck, maybe this is it ... and found out.
  • possibleownerpossibleowner Member Posts: 1
    I'm considering getting a Jetta Turbo after seeing the price for the V6 skyrocket over the last year. I've heard from a few dealers that for my purposes (city driving in Los Angeles)the turbo is a better car. Anyone care to comment?
  • emich13emich13 Member Posts: 1
    My Fiance leases a 2000 Jetta and is currently in the 3rd year of her lease. She has had numerous problems with the car which include having to replace the gas tank at 10,000 miles, fixing the motor in the drivers side window and of course the need to add 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles (which is NOT the norm for newer cars despite Volkswagon's claims). However it is the most recent problem that I am questioning. I recently took her car in to have her breaks inspected and was told that the front brakes were fine, but that the rears were worn completely and in addition BOTH of her calipers were no good which probably caused the wear. I noticed that comment # 1494 deals with the rear breaks wearing before the fronts as well, so I'm not the first to have this problem. In addition, after I had the calipers done it had to be towed back to the shop a week later because one of the new calipers was defective as well! Does anybody have any input on that? The car only has 32,000 miles on it, I think that it is unusual for the front brakes to be fine at 32,000 when the rears are completely worn and I also think that it is completely unacceptable for the calipers to need replacing at 32,000! Does anyone have any advice on the calipers???

    Eric
  • rlui1rlui1 Member Posts: 93
    Go for the 1.8T because:

    - Better acceleration
    - Cheaper
    - Better gas mileage

    The only advantage of the VR6 is that it's smoother but it's not as fun to drive and I hear insurance is more.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    I agree. The current VR6 really doesn't do anything better than the current 1.8T. The ONLY thing the VR6 has going for it is the VR6 sounds it makes....it just sounds cool.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    ... and the VR6 comes with some options, I believe, that aren't available on the 1.8T. I've got the VR6 with every option available :)

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host
    Edmunds.com

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    i gotta admit, im considering a turbo for my next car, a turbo anything...just for the sound..lol,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually turbos are generally quieter than n/a cars, because the turbo acts as a muffler in the exhaust stream.
  • yupoldbullyupoldbull Member Posts: 28
    #1605 of 1610 Jetta Brake problems by emich13

    I replaced my rear brakes that were completly worn at 42,000 miles. Front pads still had a good 3/8" on them, plenty good....and good thing cause they cost twice as much as the rear pads.

    Darnest thing I have ever seen....typically, the front brakes of a car will wear almost twice as fast as the rear.

    And I am sure it isn't because of the parking brake being pulled....Our 5 speed jetta stalls in first gear with just, "one click", on the hand brake....so it is something else. I am sure of that....

    Yup YupOldBull
  • debr1debr1 Member Posts: 10
    Not sure if this is a problem with the Monsoon so I'm looking for input. My car came with Monsoon installed (1.8T Jetta, 2002). When I turn the button that changes the sound from the drivers side to the passenger side, the passenger side sound is great-bass, treble etc. When I put the sound to the driver's side only, it is very different-almost like the bass is missing. Is this normal or might I have a speaker problem? Thanks.
  • monkeyman6monkeyman6 Member Posts: 14
    I just test drove the new GLX with the 201 HP engine with tiptronic as a second car for my wife. The car rides nice (I would prefer the 6 speed manual that is supposed to be coming as well), a few changes include new brushed aluminum wheels, an integrated single slot disc player with the Monsoon system, that 's about all I can tell. The other car I am considering for a different set of reasons is the Acura TL-S (nice, brutally low roofline). The Acura is a couple of thousand more. My current car is a 98 A4, and I have had precious few problems in 4 years. I am wondering after 1600 postings is it really worth spending half your life at the VW dealer chasing down rattles etc like I did with my 86 Golf?
  • gslevegsleve Member Posts: 183
    uncommon I found that in quite a few cars including my own that the pad material in the rear brakes are much softer and prone to wear quicker than the front pads very weird. I only had approx 30k on my max it's a stick decided to change the front pads life on them wasn't even approaching 1/2, I had wheels off decided to replace checked the rear and more than 1/2 of the material disappeared I replaced them, I thought it very pecuilar
  • david0422david0422 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem for my rear break.
    My current miles is 48,500 Miles, but I replaced my rear break's pads in 23,000 miles for the first time. I changed my rear break's pads around 36,000 miles for the second time and I also changed my caliper because people from dealer told me there is something wrong with my caliper.
    Until now, everything is fine, but I feel my rear break's pads still worn too much, after I check it. So, I believe there is still something wrong with the break eventhough I already changed caliper. Is there anyone can help me? Any good solution can complete solve this problem. Thank you very much.
  • yettibuttyettibutt Member Posts: 98
    My wife's 2000 has what I thought was abnormal rear brake wear. The rears always seem to have more brake dust on the wheels. Had the dealer look at it and they said nothing was wrong. Just a Jetta thing I guess. She drives it pretty easy and it has 36K and they are still going so I think everything is ok.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    The rear OEM pads are a soft material to reduce complaints about noise and squeaks. They produce a lot of dust and wear quickly with it not being unusual for them to wear out around 20K to 25K miles. To avoid this problem try using a different type pad such as Mintex Red Box. Mintex and other good pads will eliminate quite a bit of the dust, brake better, and last much longer.
  • david0422david0422 Member Posts: 4
    Moparbad, Thanks for your advise on #1617,
    But I still have a question.
    If I change my pades from factory parts to Mintex Red Box, will it fit for my factory caliper? Will there any problem if I just use Mintex for my original break system?
    Thank you very much !
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    The pads fit the factory caliper. There are two types of pads some have senors and some do not. The ones with sensors usually cost a little more. Either can be used but the ones without sensors require the sensor wire to be crimped. Here is a link to an install of pads w/o sensor. http://www.swankmonkey.com/mintex/

    Here is link that states the rotors should be turned of replaced when installing metallic pad such as mintex. http://www.newdimensions.com/products/page_2.html

    I would replace the rotors, they are not too expensive.
  • jcp5jcp5 Member Posts: 9
    I have owned my Tulley(NH) 2000 Jetta for approx. 2 yr/48,000 highway miles. Here are the problems I have experienced...

    * The car burns oil rapidly between oil changes and requires maintenance
    * My drivers side AND passenger side window fell into the door and after the secretary told me there was nothing they could do (mind you, it was raining and I had a 1 hr commute home) I had the manager help, if you call it that...I was charged $250.
    * The sunroof is broken (its $85 just for VW to look at it)
    * The Mass Airflow Sensor needed replacement at 40,000 miles ($550)
    * There is a rattling in the passenger side speaker (dealer can’t figure it out but charges for checking)
    * The dash board lights sometimes don’t come on

    Please note that all of these problems are not due to misuse of the car...at one time I ran a car detailing business and I treat the car very, very well and have been disheartened by its problems.

    VW service is horrible!! and the workers are very unsypathethic to any problems. Since its not one problem that recurs over and over I dont qualify for the lemon-law; a loophole if you ask me.

    I will never buy a VW again.
    Feel free to ask me any questions… jeffebay2000@yahoo.com
  • yupoldbullyupoldbull Member Posts: 28
    #1620 of 1620 FOR PROSPECTIVE VW BUYERS… by jcp5

    2000 VW Jetta

    You guys just don't get it....go get a good lawyer....my car burned oil...and my engine light came on...and my car mats broke free...and my rear window defroster worked (all but 2 strands)...and my window dropped into the door...and my young VWOA rep. taught me how to read a dry dipstick.....the car looks good, but it is poorly built....

    21 quarts of oil.....42,000 miles

    My Homelite chainsaw gets better mileage!

    Do you really want me to go on....I sued them and they paid my lawyer close to $2m and I got almost twice that....and I am still mad....go figure. Scroll back...and see previous articles....all 4 of them...2 years worth....and then they fixed my engine on a N/C basis....

    Doesn't VWOA read this column? Do they care?

    My lawyers webpage has a yellow VW on it! (Lemon Color?) Wanna see....Wanna bet?

    Someone should write the US Consumer Affairs Division....let them read this forum (all 1600 comments) and then talk to me.....I will even post my name and address.....bring it on....no fear here! I don't hide behind the same skirts that our moderators hide behind!

    Our moderators want to keep everything calm and not talk bad about the mfg. Oh well. Come on...talk to me guys....do you have to add a quart of oil every 3 weeks to your new cars....How about it MR. Shiftup....You want to hear from another 200 unhappy car owners? And after them...another 200! Get the picture yet! What ever happened to the experts that told us how to calculate "true oil consumption". Where did they go...anyway?

    The rings are bad....go figure that experts!

    Good luck guys....get smart, get a good lawyer, I won my fight.....just having fun now.....Yup

    YupOldBull
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    "Our moderators want to keep everything calm and not talk bad about the mfg"

    That is simply not true. What we ask is that people try not to lather themselves up into vituperous rants that simply drive others away. You can be mad. You can hate your car. But you can't cuss, ramble, or deluge our other visitors with basically emotional information of no use to them.

    Give the facts and you end up helping others learn what they need to know.
  • matty10matty10 Member Posts: 4
    I usually read this board to see what preventive maintence I can do on my Jetta so I don't have long range problems (I have a 1.8T, and no problems through the first 2,000 miles).

    But I get very confused by Yup Old Bull writing 2m when he means 2k (or $2,000,000 vs. $2,000). I have to wonder about the credibility of someone who doesn't know the difference!

    I also wonder if some of the problems people are having is with the dealer, not the car. Sure the window regulators from the 99's and 2000's were defective. Everyone knows that and VW replaces them for free. If your service guy doesnt know that or doesnt know how to properly fix your car, GO SOMEWHERE ELSE! There are many VW dealers with competent service departments, so perhaps these people should find one.

    I haven't had to service my Jetta yet, but when I do, I'm going to make sure my service department knows what they are doing and honors the warranty, or I will just go to another VW service department!
  • rlui1rlui1 Member Posts: 93
    Congratulations on winning your lawsuit! Do I read you right...you received $4 million in damages from VWOA? How?
  • nambrafnambraf Member Posts: 3
    In answer to Debr1:
    I have the same problem with my Monsoon system. Richer, fuller sound on the passenger's side. I have to adjust the balance control to driver's side to even hear that side. I brought it back to dealer, and sales manager listened to it, and another Monsoon, and agreed there was something wrong. He's waiting to hear back from VW, to figure iut how to correct it. I e-mailed Monsoon company, and they suggested that the dealer perform a test with a Vag?? to make sure the amp is tuned to the Jetta's acoustics. It's annoying that I spent an extra $300 for the system, and it's not working properly.
    I'll let you know if it gets fixed. Anyone else have this problem?
  • rlui1rlui1 Member Posts: 93
    I haven't had a problem with my Monsoon System but I'm not very impressed with it. The overall sound quality seems very average, considering it was an extra cost. In particular, the maximum bass setting is very weak. In comparison, the stereos in previous vehicles were far superior (i.e., '94 Acura Integra GSR, '97 Pathfinder w/ Bose).
  • yupoldbullyupoldbull Member Posts: 28
    #1623 of 1626 Yup Old Bull and jcp by matty10

    "But I get very confused by Yup Old Bull writing 2m when he means 2k (or $2,000,000 vs. $2,000). I have to wonder about the credibility of someone who doesn't know the difference!"

    Yup, we have a credibility problem.....

    In automotive terms k is commonly used to designate thousands, and typically used to refer to mileage...as in mileage 40k or 40,000 miles.

    In business terms m is commonly used to designate thousands and typically refers to thousands...as in $40m or 40,000 dollars. Business folks don't use k for some reason.

    Now, if you can grasp the above...mm is millions.

    So when I say that my lawyer got close to $2m it meant...close to $2,000.00 and I got almost twice that... you do the math on that one.

    Stop picking on an old retiree that spent his entire life in (both) automotive and business! If I flunk townhall, they might send me back for another 30 yrs. of re-training.

    My company had gross sales of $42 billion when I retired. .....mmmmmm

    Yup YupOldBull
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    We DO have high standards, that's true....LOL!

    It is a proven fact that if a person has problems with his new car, he will always rate the deaaler satisifaction level lower than someone who has had fewer problems, even if the dealer fixed all the problems. So most people who have a bunch of warranty claims usually hate their dealers.
  • debr1debr1 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks nambraf and rlui1 for the info. Please let me know if you find a "fix" for the Monsoon problem. My car is going into the shop next week to get the rattles fixed (I hope) and that would be a great time to address that problem also.
  • twig93twig93 Member Posts: 38
    My CD's skip almost all the time. It is not my CD's...most are new and I have tried switching them. Dealer replaced CD player (even though car is not under warranty anymore). However, when I picked up the car .....I turned it on and one CD was still skipping. I left the car running and went inside to get them to hear it and it was as if I was an annoyance. One old guy came out who didn't even know how to work a CD player and of course by then the CD had locked up. He didn't hear it skip, it just wasn't playing. As he started flipping through the other CD's it unlocked itself and played fine. All the CD's are skipping frequently now. Has anyone had this problem or have any ideas what it could be? Could it be the whole unit itself and not the CD player....bad reception in radio and the tape player doesn't seem to work right either.

    They had mentioned once before about the ground being bad. However, have never mentioned it since....they acted as if replacing the CD player was the answer.
  • siverjetta2siverjetta2 Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 VR6 starts to have exhaust with a strong smell of sulfer. I wonder if this is a common problem and something I have to fix. I also noticed that the milage went down by 10-15 % (24-25 to 21 - 22), although I'm not sure it's related. I would appreciate any kinds of suggestions.
  • irishfan1irishfan1 Member Posts: 1
    I just took my 2000 Jetta VR6 (27,000 miles) to the dealer because the Manifest Indicator Lamp came on. They said the mass air flow sensor is bad ($498). It's been acting funny when I turned, too, so I had them check that out and they want $550 for a new power steering line.

    Has anyone else had this problem, and do I just feel like I'm being overcharged, or does this seem realistic?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    The MAF is very, very common to fail on VW 2.0, VR6, 1.8T and TDI. The cost on the sensor is $315.00 or less for the 6 cyl. and I would contact VWoA and ask them to pay all or part of the cost. The air flow sensor problem is a known problem to VWoA. A power steering hose is $49.00 so I have no idea what the $550 is for.
  • yupoldbullyupoldbull Member Posts: 28
    1632 of 1633 by irishfan1

    Has anyone else had this problem, and do I just feel like I'm being overcharged, or does this seem realistic?

    My god...scroll back to say...1200... and read up to here, and you will have your answer. Live in this town hall for two years, and you won't have to ask that question. Look'em in eye, and say you will sue'em! That's what I had to do...scroll up for details!

    YupOldBull

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • ivyjeanivyjean Member Posts: 1
    My rear brakes worn after only driving 10k with a total of only 25k. I was told that I had to pay for all repairs. This seem to be a bit of problem for a front wheel drive car. I brought the car use with a service contract from a dealer who does not have trained VW repair staff. Little did I know. I gave the car up and now I am out of $11,000! and no car!I want to know if anyone eles have had problems with there rear brakes wearing with only 25,000 miles
  • david0422david0422 Member Posts: 4
    Yes, my rear brakes wearing with around 22,000 mileas first time, and it wearing again around 36,000 miles. So, I changed my rear breaks' pads and rotos twice and caliper one time.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Scroll up and read posts 1614-1619 about brakes. Also, did you give up the car and lose $11,000 because the car needed a brake job? Seems a more than a little foolish.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Hm, that seems an excessive bit of action. I just had my rear brake pads replaced (30,000 miles) at a cost of $175, including parts & labor. Only out-of-pocket repair I've had with this car, so it doesn't seem over the top.

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host
    Edmunds.com

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • jbkreegsjbkreegs Member Posts: 11
    Here goes...I don't have my papers in front of me, so I will go off my memory.
    In 1998 I pre-ordered a New Jetta GLX with 16in. wheels and sport seats as stated in the catalog. It arrived in May 1999, beautiful black, but no sport seats or 16in rims. Confused, I questioned the dealer, they said they weren't made yet.

    Suspicious, I contacted VWOA, they said the rims and seats were being made for the GLX. I confronted the dealer, the dealer stood firm on their information. VWOA stood firm as well, one year and many correspondences later, VWOA finally admitted that they must not have made those features on the 99 new jetta. I lost my friendship with that dealer, since VWOA gave them many complaints.

    Then the problems started within 7,000mi:
    Drivers side window breaks off track.
    Sunroof shade comes off track twice.
    Temperature reading sometimes says -60F when its 72F.
    Engine warning light illuminates half a dozen separate times, oxygen sensors need to be replaced, etc.
    One time a dealer told me to ignore the warning light. Power seat knob sticks, keeps moving back. Brakes really noisy, dealer says "VW brakes are noisy, they last between 60-100,000mi, hmmm.

    Recently, the warning light has come on again, my warranty has expired. After only 27,000mi, I wonder what it will be, and how much. I'm expecting it to be the mass air flow sensor.

    I just found this forum, I used to think I was the only one with a bunk car (not enough to be a lemon though). I'm glad I found this place. Yupoldbull, you have some good advice. Thanks JB
  • yupoldbullyupoldbull Member Posts: 28
    #1639 of 1639 1999 New Jetta GLX Story by jbkreegs

    Thanks JB!

    Front windows falling off the track.
    Temperature gauge malfunction.
    Engine light malfunction.
    Torn floor mats.
    Untruthful VW serivce managers.
    Oil burning engine with bad rings.
    CD skips.
    Rear brakes wear out in 30k....fronts are Ok!
    Loose shift knob.
    Loose steering....rack and pinion.
    Broken sunroof.
    Rear Defroster with 2 strands out.
    Broken glove box.
    Insults by VWOA rep's.
    Unresponsive VWOA customer service rep's.

    Yup!

    Can anyone add to this?

    How about it MrShiftright.....are we all making this up? Do you see this kind of volume with other car manufacturers?

    YupOldBull
  • jabildajabilda Member Posts: 47
    Hope my experience w/ my Jetta is better than yours. It just arrived @port and will be ready soon. I ordered the wagon TDI 5 speed. I'm hoping I do not go through what you did (unless I receive the same settlement!!). Since we live in (somewhat) close proximity, which dealership were you dealing w/?
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    The Jetta wagon is made in Germany as opposed as the Jetta sedan that is made in Mexico. Most problems with the Jetta sedan come from the fact that this car is poorly assembled in the Puebla, Mexico plant. Quality control is questionnable at best.

    The Jetta wagon is manufactured in Germany, hence quality control should be at least at Passat levels.

    I personally avoid Mexican "Engineered" VW's.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    My first and last response on this issue. The major problems on Jetta (and Golf) are window regulator failure, oil burning, MAF failure, short brake life, and the squeaks and rattles which are not reliability issues. A 1.8T or TDI motor is assembled in Germany irregardless of where the final assembly point is. There is no past history on the Jetta Wagon as it is very new so there is no way to say it is better in quality than Mexican manufature. The Golf/GTI was manufactured in Germany for 2000 and early 2001 and it is known as having as many problems as Jettas of the same year and more problems than Golf/GTI manufactured in Brazil. Was told by rep. of VW (not a dealer) that assembly of Jetta Wagon is moving to Mexico anyway.
    There is no valid reason based in factual data to say Mexican is worse or better than any other assembly point. My opinion is that anyone choosing Jetta Wagon because "it is assembled in Germany and has quality at Passat level because of it's assembly location" is in for a huge disappointment when they have similar quality to the Jetta Sedan. VW is having quality/reliability problems in Europe, I wonder if that is from Mexican cars too?
  • jabildajabilda Member Posts: 47
    I think I'm more concerned on the engine (TDI) than the interior / replacement parts. The window thing I'll watch - my brother had a diesel beetle with the window falling into the crack. They used some silicone goo and really screwed the window up. My brother (who is forceful) made the mechanic take the entire window apart, clean the entire inside of the door to rid it of the dripping goo and made them fix the regulator. Later, I found a TSB from VW that stated NOT to spray any silicone around the engine because it kills the MAF sensor when sucked into the engine. I just wish VW would have kept the TSB's free. It's a pay service now.

    Like some on this post, I'm not looking for perfection, just longevity. Hell, I have a 1990 Pontiac Grand Am w/ the crap 4 engine w/ 144,500 on it. It had it's issues (blown ICU units, ate spark plugs, accessory belt change is a b----) but it 'got me there' and back. I'm hoping that the VW will last as long (I don't beat 'em, I maintain 'em), or until they bring the Passat over w/ a diesel. In agreement w/ Moparbad, I do not understand why the US doesn't receive SOME allotment of Passat diesels. I think (w/ the current state of the auto industry) diesel will be employed more w/ some integration w/ electric in the short term until some new fuel source is perfected.

    Additionally, the US car manufacturers have diesel in Europe. If you go to the Jeep website in the UK, there are Cherokees that have 2.5l Detroit diesels in them. Why can't I get that here in the US??? I think that many people would love a Jeep that got good gas mileage and could really tow like a son-of-a-b----. Americans, IMHO, are being short-changed here. Also, (as all of you know) the diesel engine would 9 of of 10 times outlast the vehicle around it.
  • jbkreegsjbkreegs Member Posts: 11
    US car manufacturers sold many cars in the 1970's. Some of these cars would only last 4-5 years, that allowed for the success of the auto manufacturers, since people depended on cars and bought new ones when theirs failed.
    When Japanese cars became popular, like Hondas which would last twice as long, US manufactures lost major business since people wanted a durable, fuel-efficient car, one that would last.
    We've contemplated a theory that since diesels have the potential to last many years, increasing the life span of a car, new car sales would decline even further for US cars, without a demand for a new vehicle.
    It could be possible that American cars don't have diesels in order to ensure a future for US car manufacturers that rely on people purchasing cars often.
    Or maybe they can't imagine a diesel Cadillac. Just a thought, JB
  • debr1debr1 Member Posts: 10
    Along with the rattles (which get progressively worse each time the dealer "fixes" them)I am hearing what I think is a wind noise coming from the drivers side door up near where the speaker is located. I have a wind deflector on the car and am wondering if that may be causing the problem. I'm wondering if anyone else is having this problem or if this is the way that the car sounds. Thanks for any input-I'm meeting with the VW regional rep next week re the rattles and would like to address this issue also.
  • jabildajabilda Member Posts: 47
    Yes - thought through that one before and, being in America, know that US companies live by the quarterly results with little focus on the LT. If companies focused on what would be the greatest thing 2 yrs from now and focus on it, develop a great car, and sell something that lasts it would make them a great car company in 5 years. If I could afford it, I'd buy a Mercedes, but event they are becoming more worldly. Also, and I think this is particularly true in the US, people have differing tastes. Even if the car was built to last and look good for ten years, I think most people would trade their cars within 4-7 years based on taste and upgrades in technology. For me (&, of course, I project my wants on what society wants :-) ), I would be willing to take a loan out for an additional $10k if I knew the car was built to last 15 years and the failures would be based on maintenance practices. The best I can do today is the low-end MB, which I really don't like and MB's quality, like all of the 'premier' car companies, have been dropping. In a lot of respects, I'm looking for perfection (quality, durability, usability @ a reasonable price) since the purchase is a necessity of life (unless you live in the city) & it costs so much. I think my tastes are skewed as compared to the general public. I'm of the opinion that I raelly don't care how a car looks, but if it could satisfy quality, durabilty ..., etc., I'd buy it. As an example, if the Pontiac Aztec could fit all of those, I'd buy it (even as ugly as it looks). But in my opinion, they put a 3.4l engine in it (their worst engine, IMO) so I question the quality & durability and the idea that it's butt ugly makes my decision.

    This is why I'm going w/ the Jetta TDI wagon. Pro's: The engine should last me 15 years (projected total mileage 200k). The asthetics are good enough. The safety is among the best today. Con's: The nagging reliability problems whcih I'll have to deal with. The back seat is small as compared to industry standards. The car is over small in size as compared to cars priced similarly, especially US cars.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    HUH?---I don't recall ever saying or even implying that people were "making up" these problems.

    The only two cents I recall chipping in was with the oil burning, when people were claiming that a quart every 2,500 miles was "excessive" for a new engine and I stated that from an engineering point of view, this was not excessive and not necessarily indicative of a bad engine.

    My points were (so that no one puts any more words in my mouth!)

    1. How much oil are you burning exactly and how do you know this?

    2. Even if the oil burning is "excessive" by your standards or even VW standards this does not mean your engine is going to blow up.

    3. Okay, your engine is burning oil then keep a record proving the rate of consumption (if YOU don't, THEY won't) , report it to the dealer while under warranty and send a file copy to VW, and then ask for warranty assistance.

    I never, ever, ever suggested that the other problems mentioned, about windows and brakes, weren't happening. Why would I say such a thing?

    What I don't feel is productive or accurate is the claim that engines aren't supposed to burn some oil. They are and they do, it's just a fact.

    Also, rupturing your relationship with the dealer and the VOA rep by taking a highly adverserial position will make everything more difficult.

    Cool and professional gets the job done with warranty claims.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    8u6hfd, seems pretty thorough to me, but as Shifty said, keeping records is important. There are a lot of questions that the techs are required to ask, and if you can't answer simple but specific questions about the oil addition/consumption history, they can't help you.

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host
    Edmunds.com

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If VWOA measures your oil consumption at a quart every 2,500 miles, by doing a test on your car over time, you are definitely NOT going to get a new engine.

    I just wanted to point that out so folks wouldn't be making a claim that is not reasonable.
  • yupoldbullyupoldbull Member Posts: 28
    The VWOA rep. told me, face to face, that my car had bad rings in it. 21 quarts of oil, plus normal oil changes, in 42,000 miles. I sued them and won....and they deglazed the cylinder walls and replaced the defective rings. Yup

    YupOldBull
Sign In or Register to comment.