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Comments
went on for a couple of times and dealer
gave me same recomendations I've read
so far in this page. HOWEVER, 3 days ago
light went on again and car started SHAKING!!
I had to get my 2002 jetta towed to the dealer,
they said some cars have problems with ignition COIL, and it had to be back ordered, they couldn't tell me how long would it take!! more
than three weeks!!! Can anybody help me on giving
more information, do you know if there's a recall on this piece?. Ignition Coil problems cause the MIL light to turn on!!! FYI.
went on for a couple of times and dealer
gave me same recomendations I've read
so far in this page. HOWEVER, 3 days ago
light went on again and car started SHAKING!!
I had to get my 2002 jetta towed to the dealer,
they said some cars have problems with ignition COIL, and it had to be back ordered, they couldn't tell me how long would it take!! more
than three weeks!!! Can anybody help me on giving
more information, do you know if there's a recall on this piece?. Ignition Coil problems cause the MIL light to turn on!!! FYI.
1996 Jetta GL, 2.0 liter, auto tranny.
I think it started leaking when the fuel pump quit and they replaced it. We've been ignoring it for over 2 years now, but I'm sick of not filling the tank past 3/5 full, which is about where it leaks.
Anyone replace their tank? How difficult is it? How much is a replacement tank? Fuel pump issues?
Thanks.
Here's a less familiar problem: My wife's Jetta has started to make a harsh buzzing, grinding sound as you accelerate through the gears. The car has about 35,000 miles on it. The sound is most noticable around 2,200 RPM. I'm thinking she may have driven over an obstacle (you'd have to observe her driving style to appreciate what I mean) and loosened the exhaust manifolding, which is now vibrating harmonically every time the engine pitch is just right.
Of course, this is just a guess. Has anybody else had a problem with a grinding or buzzing noise that comes and goes as your shift up? Or with a spouse who thinks "The Fast and the Furious" is a driver's education training film?
I think they should have just recalled the car and not gone through all this crap. They are most likely doing it this way because they don't have the sources to replace the many parts that are affected.
Your wife might have gotten something caught in the exhaust manifold, like rocks or something. This happend to someone I know, and they had to have the shield removed and cleaned out. There were rocks in there, making this awful sound.
My dealer says he has 9 more Jettas on his lot waiting for coils. I'm outside of my warranty, but after several heated calls to VWofA they agreed to pay for the part and finally, on day 24 they supplied me with a rental.
MEC
So far these are the only ones I have experienced.
I'm thinking about trading in my 2000 Jetta VR6.
I figured if I knew all the upcoming problems I can do prentive maintenance and reconsider the trading in to get an Acura RSX-S.
Sorry to hear the bad news ihatevw...
Perhaps its time to apply the Lemon Law
Have a great holiday folks..
Sorry about your experience... I would be livid too.
It's only these observant caring interested drivers who might notice some of the smaller things like rattles etc. I've driven one the older "peoples cars" a rusty rabit that gets killer mpg and just goes forever. With of course it's share of repairs, but the amount of hours on the powerplant verses the problems is negligible.
What do past or future posters feel about the mexico vs germany debate. If this has been covered or beat to death in another thread i didn't find it with the search function.
Thus for my own edification, and perhaps for that of those having problems and anybody else with an interest perhaps posters could reveal the build location of thier vehicle along with, or as a precursor or appendage to, thier post? Even a poll of some type?
You have a problem.
You list if your car was made in mexico or germany.
We Tabulate the data over thousands of responses
Then after another 2248 owners post complaints along with this information we can use a spreadsheet to tabulate the data and see if any type of actual trend occurs. I'm sure VWoA has been doing this privately for years.
This site:
http://homepages.tesco.net/~john.wintle/article/VIN_Interpretation.htm
Breaks the VIN down for you if you have more than a passing interest. If not than the only three characters that really matter are the first two and the 11th.
If your VIN starts with W then it's germany:
1 - Manufacturing Country
W - Germany (Europe)
1 - USA
3 - Mexico
9 - Brazil
If the second character is V it's germany:
2 - Manufacturer
A - Audi
B - VW of Brazil
V - Volkswagen
Then it doesn't really matter until the 11th character which reveals Assembly Plant as distinct from the company or country that manufactured the actual pieces:
11 - Assembly Plant
A - Ingolstadt
B - Brussels
E - Emden
G - Graz
H - Hanover
K - Osnabruck
M - Mexico
N - Neckarsulm
P - Brazil
S - Stuttgart
V - Westmoreland, PA. (USA)
W - Wolfsburg
Y - Spain (SEAT)
If there's a Mod hangin around please move this question wherever or point me to where this has been done etc. Or maybe we could go up a couple levels in the hierarchy and include all complaints? A VW wide survey of problems set against VIN country ID? Think of the graph that could be generated after a year or so!!!
Engine-Germany
Assembly-Mexico
I had no issues whatsoever with Mexico assembly. This car has run great with 0 problems/issues.
That's one positive mark for Mexico Assembly of a
2002
Jetta
(sedan/wagon???)
(GL GLS GLX??)
1.8T
(Auto/Manual???)
(xxx miles???)
2002
Jetta
Sedan
GLS
1.8T
Manual
9000 miles
Options:
Sport Luxury (Sport Suspension, 17" Alloy Wheels, Leather, Heated Seats, Sunroof)
Monsoon Sound System
I hope VW takes a hit in sales over the next few years as a result of a lot of pissed off customers.
Also, rear brakes: They wear out within 35K miles and usually take the rotors with them. Call VWoA and complain about this. I know a handful of people who have gotten parts and labor paid for at the VW dealer because of cheap materials that were used in making the brake pads. VW knows of this problem, and for the most part seems to be replacing the affected parts.
1.8T coils: My car (02 1.8T) died on Saturday and had to be towed in. Symptoms: check engine light flashing, jerking/rocking from car, no power. Igniton coils. Told from the dealer that they were on nationwide backorder and it could take up to a month to get the part. When the car broke on Saturday, I called the sales mgr. at the dealer where I got the car (I have referred customers to him, and he knows me well), and he promised me a rental on Monday. I had to take a bus to the dealer, but got my rental as soon as I got there. They are paying for the car as well, until mine is repaired properly.
Also, be warned! VW has been rumored to be using the same old crappy coils to fix their cars, due to demand of the part. The old parts will just break again. There is a bad batch of them out there now, affecting all 1.8Ts (Jetta, GTI, Audi A4 & TT, Passat). VW is using a new supplier now though, so make sure it's the updated part that's put in your car or you will be right back at service again in no time.
If your car is outta warranty and the coils go, have it towed to VW. They will pay for the repair and, with a little complaining, the rental car as well.
After picking the car up and only then being told by the cashier that it was not fixed (the service guy had left me a voice mail that said "Great news! Your car is done!"), I found a piece of repair equipment left on the passenger seat. Now, two days later, when activating the left turn signal (left and only left) the hazard light indicator flashes in conjunction with the turn signal. Also, the alarm does not arm.
This is my 3rd warranty service on this car in 11 months -- disgraceful.
I run into this all the time on these boards - My GTI has been perfect - no regrets whatsoever.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
That is the oddest set of circumstances I have ever heard of with a car.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
As long as you did not abuse the clutch then I think VW should pay for or share in the cost of clutch replacement. I'm thinking that $600 is the most that a clutch replacement should cost. And this is at dealer.
As far as the clutch: It should not go out at 15K. I'd call VWoA
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
been great also.
It would almost "buck when i was driving and Idled strange when I started it. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor and Ran beautiful afterwards. Hope this helps...