Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

16768707273131

Comments

  • mandy0121mandy0121 Member Posts: 3
    :cry: :sick: :confuse: Hello,
    I feel like an idiot, but I did probably the stupidest thing in the world I just purchased a 2000 VW Jetta GLX VR6 without having my own mechanic look at it first. It had 79,235 miles on it when I got it. I purchased it from a local car dealer not a volkswagen dealer. They seemed genuine and for real, they provided me with a carfax report and showed me the papers showing it had been serviced and maintenanced.I was a fool and I trusted them. I'm not saying they're lieing however since I've had it, it has shown me otherwise. Now I'm pretty new with VW this is my first one, actually my first car ever. So I'm hoping someone that knows something can help me. I've only had it for almost 3 months. It's gonna end up costing me $12,000 and that's not including the $1,300 I put down, which I now know from researching that I was way over charged. I leased it on a first time buyers loan with 10.5% APR from a credit union. I pay $265 a month for 5 years. I bought it "AS IS" and the factory warranty expired at 80,000 miles and I didn't purchase the extended warranty.I'm not a very smart cookie, am I? It now has 83,140 miles on it. Here's my problem: When I brought it home and filled the tank for the first time, I reset the thing where you can keep track of how many miles you've driven. When it got down to E I had only got 230 miles to the tank. Almost everyone I talked with told me that I should get way better gas mileage in that type of car. I only use premium gasoline, but I went to AutoZone and purchased Octane Boost and tried to see if that would help my gas situation.NOPE. In fact it got worse. I kept reseting and checking the milage as it droped from 230 miles to 200 miles to the tank. Then yesterday morning when it reached E before I filled up and reset the miles I noticed that I had only got 194miles to the tank. Confused and Upset I took it to a local mechanic that specializes in import vehicles. When I told him my problem he checked under my hood and then plugged this computer type thing under my dash by the steering wheel.After a minute went by two things popped up on the screen. The first one said my 02 censor was completely dead "out". The second one said my CAT System was functioning insuficiently. The guy told me I would need to replace the 02 Censor for $200. If the catalytic converter had gone bad that was $1,500 to replace. He also started naming things I needed to replace for my 80,000 mile maitenance. Spark Plugs at $28-$34 a piece, and a couple of other things. He's talking almost $2K-$3K to fix my car and I just got. I went to the dealers and no help there. I thought they'd help in someway they were nice and replaced for free a radiator hose that cracked 3 days after I got it.Is this mechanic over charging me or is this the normal price range? And why did my car break so soon? Are these things typical in the 2000 jetta? Also never once did or to this day have any lights or symbols come up telling me to check or service engine, so could this guy be blowing smoke?Also I read on another site that in 2000 they had a problem with a few Jetta's. They said the owners who had, had their right rear tire blow experienced problems with faulty feul tanks. It just so happens that about 3 weeks ago when driving home on the freeway my right rear tire blew. Are these facts true or false? Do I have any options? I just don't think it's right that I should have to spend almost $3,000 to fix it when I haven't even had it for 90 days and whats wrong with it was like that before I bought it and when I bought it. The dealer never mentioned a bad 02 censor and CAT System, Huh, wonder why? lol. I still have the temporary registration sticker in my window. Is there anything legally I can do? Or at least something I can do to save some money? Please somebody help me with some answers. I'm only 19 and I don't know much about cars let alone VW's and niether does anyone I know. I'm so confused and scared!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    WOW -- that is one long paragraph.

    (Amanda)

    You are just learning about car maintaince. None of those items are particularly unusual for a vehicle with nearly 80K miles on it. German vehicles (especially the GLX which was VWs premiumim automobile in 2000) are expensive to maintain.
    (most of the parts are manufactured to tight tolerances in Germany and you have to pay for them to be shipped to the USA)

    I see you are in California, You may have some recourse with the seller. Apparently this vehicle will not even pass a tailpipe emmissions test.
    (The bad O2 sensor can ruin the catalytic converter.)

    Your "issue" with the tire is NOT related to the fuel-filler problem. You have it backwords... in some cases people would actually DRIVE with a flat tire on the RR of the vehicle -- the peices of the tire would "flap" against the fuel-filler tube and break it off. The fuel tank was not involved at all.
  • mandy0121mandy0121 Member Posts: 3
    So how should I go about it, should I just grit my teeth and pay to have it fixed, or what? I read something I few minutes ago about a recall on 02 censors in 2000 Jetta's should I contact a VW dealer?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Personally, I would start with the SELLER and explain your concern about the vehicle they just sold to you will pass the CA emmissions tests.

    I would approach this as an EMISSIONS issue because CA. has such strict laws about emmissions.

    Again, I dont know the laws in your state but I would have to beleive to have a licence to sell cars in CA that THE SELLER has to make sure it passes emmissions before they can sell it. (They sold you a vehicle that is not legal for the roads in CA) Perhaps speaking to your states attorneys office would help you understand where you stand on this issue.

    It certainly wont hurt to call a VW dealership and get more details. Here is a website that lists all recalls and TSBs ( http://www.alldata.com/TSB/ )

    BTW: Both of my daughters have receintly purchased 2001 VWs and are completely happy with them.
  • steffie415steffie415 Member Posts: 1
    i have a '99 jetta gl (4 cyl) with almost 110,000 mi. and every day when i start my car it screeches very loud underneath the hood of the car the dealership doesn't know what is wrong they keep spraying my belts and that is not working. can somebody help me. I have a multiple of other problems like a catalytic converter that has already been replaced and currently needs to be replaced again, my check engine light has been on for almost a year off and on (mainly on), replaced two O2 sensors, exhaust manifold,timing belt, fuel pump at 38,000 miles,vacuum hoses, serpentine belt 3x,and I have just been told i need front rotors and brake pads and air injection flow problem i do not even know what that is. If it's not one thing it's another this car has drained my bank account. The worst part my car is only worth $4,500 now if even that and i still owe little over $14,000. someone can u help me with the screeching problem i'm desperate!!!!!!!!!!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    When the serpentine belt starts screeching, its time to get it replaced. Spraying the belts is just like putting lipstick on a pig.

    BTW - If you can find a good German mechanic, I would ditch the dealership and go there. The car is out of warranty, so you can save yourself a ton of money on dealer service markup by going to a private mechanic.
  • mike49mike49 Member Posts: 2
    the epc idiot light started coming on in my 01jetta and when it did the car would run but then loose power. a dealership told me it was the trottle control valve and it would be around$400. he said he adjusted somthing and if the epc should come on again i should bring it in. well a month later the epc and the check engine light came on but the car did not loose power. now some times they come on and some times they dont. when they are on the car tachs when idling from 800 up to 1200 . up and down. if i shut it off and restart it the lights may go out and the taching stops.? mostly the epc and check engine lights are on and it idles up and down. help
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If your car is out of warranty, ditch the dealership and find a good, private VW (or German) mechanic. You will get just as good or better service, save yourself a lot of money and a ton of headaches.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I am sorry to hear about your Jetta issues. But, the bottom line is the car does have over 80,000 miles and that is a lot of miles for a car, especially a German auto. How long have you had the car? I see you have put about 4,000 miles on it but how long have you owned it?

    $265 per month for 5 years? Are you leasing a used car???.....yikes. Since you are only 19 years old, I am guessing your credit is not established yet, therefore you may not qualify to lease. But, you could have gotten into a BRAND NEW Jetta or even a Passat lease for that monthly payment. I drive a new '04 Passat GLS and am leasing it for 4 years and pay about what you are paying. I can almost guarantee that this car won't last the entire lease term (5 yrs) without a HUGE amount of money to maintain it and keep it on the road.

    Just consider this a learning experience and go directly to the dealer where you bought it from and share your story with them. Maybe they will have pitty (but probably not) and assist with getting the car in good working order.

    Sorry about your experience, but at least next time you buy a used car you will get an independent mechanic to look it over......
  • gtvwgtvw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 GL also with the same problem. I was told by the dealer that it is coming from the starter. They thought is was a piece, or bearing, that sometimes rubs. They suggested living with the problem until the starter dies. I get it sometimes, and other times I don't hear it for two days. They checked my belts, but they ruled it out because it sounds more mechanical.
  • mike49mike49 Member Posts: 2
    i dont know. usually when flooded it should be hard to start, but mine never stalls just sometimes has no power. if i kep shuting it on and off (re-starting) it finally runs ok again.???? tachs up and down from 8 to 12 when its bad. today it ran ok even though the epc and check engine lights were on ????
  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
    Why does my 2004 Jetta 2.0 's transmission changes gears very hard ( jerks) only in the beginning of driving and then stabilizes? Is the transmission going bad? It only has 12,000 miles. Any advise? Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Is that an automatic or manual tranny?
  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    that may be a question to ask in the transmissions forum. i noticed in my two AT vehicles (not VWs) that they seemed to restrict the full range of shifting until they were at temperature. maybe yours does also?? never noted hard shifting though.
  • raghuramraghuram Member Posts: 5
    I also had this problem in the last month with my VW Jetta 2001 GLS car. On going to the dealer, I found that there was already a recall notice for this and they replaced it free of charge. The problem was that some water pump was mal-functioning and so enough coolant wasn't being pumped to the engine and so the light comes up.
    So I recommend to contact your dealer and you could get it fixed for free..
  • skodskod Member Posts: 2
    hi mandy.... I am a proud owner of a jetta vr6 2000 model. I love it. However b4 i purchased my car i looked around for a long time in different medias to find a fair price for the car and features. I am near toronto canada. So when i bought it in 2003, $16000 w/ 84000 kms. was the price. umm, i don't think there is a big difference with car prices b/w canada and the states though. for example a 20,000$ chevy still sells for a $20000 in the US. ( better check this though). I get about 480 kms ( not miles) per tank of 55Litres of fuel. I dunno maybe this is more confusing because of the differences b/w metric and imperial that you guys use. Anyways i haven't had a problems with mine besides maintenance, although i do find it likes the fuel a little too much. Also consult your owners manual for fuel additives because some can harm your engine and sensors. Instead of buying octane booster buy higher octane fuel. The minimum octane rating for your engine should be inside the gas flap. I know mine is 91 octane. umm, hope this helps a bit.
  • skodskod Member Posts: 2
    hi, I've got the same car and the same prob. I've been bringing my car to the vw dealership since i bought it and mentioned it to them. So they replaced the light. worked for about 2 secs then out, i banged the dash, lights in the heater control worked for a sec, then went out. so again brought it back in, replaced he light, same prob. So brought it in again for an oil change and mentioned the prob again. Turns out the actual unit is faulty and will cost about $150 canadian to fix. Most of it is labour because the gotta get in the dash.
  • markt1970markt1970 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I own a 2001 VR6 and have had a stream of constant Check Engine Lights. I've had the O2 sensor replaced, the Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced and a bunch of other things. The Check Engine Light keeps coming back. Now my car is occassionally stalling after deceleration on stops. Are there any other Jetta owners that can help me solve this problem? The mechanics are stumped by this and just tell me that they can't find anything wrong with the car.

    Thanks,

    Mark
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    My Olds use to stop running some times. They replaced the Program Operational Module of some sort, the Mass Airflow Sensor, and finally the Crankcase Sensor. I have not a clue what it is, but it seemed to work. Find out what the heck the crankcase sensor is and maybe that is the problem. A VW seems to have as many, if not more, problems than a 1980's GM car - what's up with that :sick:

    loren
  • amebapkamebapk Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys, i am new to this forum and i have a question about my 2001 jetta's warranty. Someone please help.

    I bought this car 3 months ago from the first owner. The car originally has a 10 year warranty. Is the 10-year-warranty still valid as I am the new driver? Do i have to transfer the warranty? If the warranty is still valid, what does it cover??

    Thanks in advance.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    10 year warranty on what? I doubt it's a bumper to bumper warranty.
  • vrajeshpvrajeshp Member Posts: 9
    HI
    Mine does the same its an Automatic 2004 VW GL with 11,000 miles. Mine has been doing this since 4000miles. Have taken it to the dealer several times and each time they say nothing is wrong! The car is great but this problem is pissing me off! NOW I know i am not the only one with the problem, Gotta do something so that the dealer can look at it. Anyone here has ideas of what is going on do let us know
    Thanks
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    What is the normal RPMs for an automatic '05 Jetta GLS?

    We've had ours for just over a week now. One obvious issue is that even when the tank is filled up, the fuel guage needle is at 9/10 full.

    The other issue is the RPMs. For the first 500 miles the RPMs were usually at 3K. Then after filling up the tank we noticed that the RPMs dropped to between 2K and 2.25K. This happened in the middle of a highway trip. Yesterday I drove the exact same stretch of highway, going in the exact same direction, at the same speed (about 60-65), and the RPMs were back up at 3K.

    What is the appropriate RPMs when traveling on a pretty flat stretch of highway at about 60-65 mph?

    Our milieage seems a bit low despite all the highway driving. Our last fill up we averaged about 24 miles per gallon, and it was almost all highway driving.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Your mileage will be a bit low, and you may experience some oil consumption until the engine breaks in - usually around the 3,000-6,000 mile range.
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Any idea about the high RPMs? 3000 RPMs is too high.

    Didn't get a straight answer from the dealer. Probably will have to go test drive at another dealer to see what a Jetta is "supposed" to drive like in terms of RPM, and then maybe talk to VW about it.
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Update on the high RPMs. VW (corporate) called us to get our feedback on the carbuying experience. We mentioned the 3000 RRMs and they agreed that it was too high. Guess that saves the trouble of testdriving other vehicles.
  • iluvmyimpyiluvmyimpy Member Posts: 1
    I need some help here.....All my electric is basically shot. Well the important ones, but I got the car really cheap so not really worried about that soo much....The engine is in awesome shape, runs smooth, and clean but whatever. Anyways, my Turn signals dont work, and one of my headlights dont work...Im figuring bulbs, but fusses and alot of electrical connections were messed with ect ect. But as I said the car was cheap. Anyways, Im looking for solutions or something maybe someone can help me out, or atleast let me know what is wrong with it? Thanks alot.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Sally,

    I am guessing you have the 2.0 engine, rather than the 1.8t. I drove a Jetta GL prior to my current Passat and the 2.0 engine did run at a high RPM when at highway speeds. It's the nature of the engine. I was not following your description of the RPM's dependent on the gas in your tank.
  • davidc6davidc6 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all!! I have been battling with the great G40 cam position sensor fault. I am desperately trying to find out some information. The big question is this: for the 3 wires going to the hall sensor, should the center signal wire have any voltage on it? I was doing some trouble shooting, and using various guides and manuals. Almost everyone of them said to disconnect the connector to the hall sensor and verify at least 4 volts at the two outer terminals. I have a good 5 volts there, but I also found that I have 5 volts on the signal wire (while still disconnected!!). I found that the ECM is supplying the voltage on that center wire. Is that normal? I was thinking that since the sensor is already receiving power, the signal wire should just be like a common return to the ECM. Thanks for any help in advance!!
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Fish 8:
    Just checked the sticker, yep, it is a 2.0 engine.

    I didn't think it made sense that the RPMs went down after filling up the tank, and wasn't necessarily implying a causal relationship. It's just what we noticed.

    On the way back from a day trip we noticed that the tank was down to about 1/4, and according to the trip odometer we had driven about 190 miles. We thought this strange since we had filled up the day before and driven almost all highway miles, we then noticed that the RPMs ran higher than any of the cars we had driven before. We stopped filled up, and got back on the highway. The RPMs went down to 2k-2.25k for the next 10 highway miles. Yesterday I drove the same stretch of highway again but the RPMs were back up at 3k.

    Who knows. I guess the instrument panel is just off and needs tweaking.

    Thanks for your reply Fish8.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Do you have the 5-speed Tiptronic transmission or the 4-speed automatic transmission?
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I could be wrong, but I don't think tiptronic was an option or standard on 2.0 Jettas. I think it was just a straight 4speed automatic (maybe 5 speed).
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    VW is one car I will avoid, if only a third of what people are saying here is fact. Pretty scary! Never owned one, so it is just an observation. The Consumer Reports section where owners rate their own autos does not look overall that promising over the last five years or so. Glad to see the Jetta got more HP, which is a good thing. Hope it does not burn oil. I like the interiors of the VWs. The car looks like quality, but too much negatives from reports of current and past owners for me to feel confident in buying one - at least a current one until things have turned around to match Japanese quality of car and dealerships. :(
    Loren
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would also avoid buying any car (of any make) in the first couple of model years. To do so would be signing up as a beta tester for the automotive industry. The VW's I've owned have been very reliable (2003 Wolfsburg Jetta, 1997 Jetta Trek, 1987 VW Golf GT) because I only purchase vehicles at or near the end of their production line (that's the time when the bugs have been worked out).

    Why anyone in their right mind would be the first kid on the block to have the latest and greatest (besides image, ego and/or vanity) is beyond me. That's what I call setting oneself up for a big disappointment. But then again, most of my life I observe and learn from others misfortunes...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Lets hope that you did not get that vehicle cheep because it has the "coolant migratoin problem" . If the antifreeze is allowed to follow the wires into the wiring harness, the ENTIRE wiring system can be affected.

    Here is a video that shows how to identify and prevent the "coolant migratoin problem" (the only known "fix" after it has destroyed the wiring system is very expensive)

    http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/coolantmigration.html
  • ylstafferylstaffer Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 95 Jetta and it's my first experience with VW's. I discovered the first night that the instrument cluster and the heater controls do not illuminate, making it nearly impossible to see them in the dark. Are these blown bulb issues or something worse? (The odometer and clock both light up, as well as the light switch, radio, and AC/recirculate switches.) If they are indeed blown bulbs, how do I gain access to them? Also, the cruise control doesn't work either. I like working on my own vehicles, so if these are relatively easy repairs I would rather do them than go to a shop. Any advice?
  • antaresantares Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2001 Jetta, and the 10 year/100.000 mile warranty is only for the powertrain, and for the original owner. It is only transferrable to his/her immediate family. If you are not the immediate family of the original owner, then unfortunately you have no more warranty. That is stated in the 2001 owner's manual.
    By the way, I love my car, it is a GLS 2.0L with manual transmission.
  • pkfpkf Member Posts: 2
    I don't have the answers for you to solve this problem. I can tell you that after reading your message I am just blown away at how many people have the same problems as I am with my 2000 Jetta VR6. I myself have had that 02 sesor replaced, masss air flow sensor and other things as well. They even changed my cateletic (SP) convertor saying something in there was broken. I have had several times had the check engine light go on have taken it in everytime to get looked at. I even took it in when the car was sputtering and no lights have gone on and they tell me there is nothing wrong with it. Last night I was driving and the car started sputtering again and the EPC and ASR (light with arrow and !) light went on. Once it continued to run really rough and I stopped at a store and came back out and started the car up and then the lights went off. When I drove home it no longer sputtered! I have no idea what's wrong with these cars but I will have this car a year next month and I am already thinking of trading it in!
  • pkfpkf Member Posts: 2
    I don't know if anyone can help but it seems that alot of people are having the same problem as myself. I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 that I bought May of 2004. I bought it from a VW dealership. Since last May we have continually had issues with this car. The car will run fine for a while and then at time will start sputtering and loosing power. They have already changed an 02 sensor and mass air flow sensor. They also changed my catiletic (sp?) convertor because they said there was a screen in there was supposidly spins around that was broken. They said this can cause the car to sputter. Mind you this is a 3rd car for us so its not driven on a daily basis until now. Because gas is so high I am driving this car daily now. Last night the EPC & ASR lights went on and the car ran so rough. It was loosing power and really running horribly. This is a continual problem for us. The check engine light has been on, sometimes lights don't go on at all but every time it happens it does the same exact thing. The dealership has told me on 4 occasions that there is nothing and they can't find anything wrong. In one year this car has been in the dealership 10 times, Monday will be the 11th for the same exact problem. At times the car runs as if there are no problems and then it starts acting up after a few weeks or days. Really weird, does anyone have the same issues? Can anyone help if they have had this problem fixed????
  • twobitspritetwobitsprite Member Posts: 1
    My sister's 99 Jetta has been having a fairly steady problem with the transmission recently that seems to be getting more and more frequent. The first time it happened, the tranny got stuck in 3rd gear and the check engine light came on, so I brought it to the dealership, and they said that the wrong tranny fluid had been put in it by jiffy lube (go figure, I told her not to trust them :P). They changed the fluid to what it was supposed to be (for way too much money). In about 2 months, the same thing happened, so I took it back, and they flushed the tranny saying that maybe some residual fluid was there, this time for free.

    About 2 weeks pass, and the same thing happened, this time I went out and got a OBD II reader, and it spit out "P0302" which means "Misfire on cylinder no. 2"......???? As soon as I erase the code, the problem goes away and it drives just fine...!

    It seems to me, like the computer is just shutting down into some kind of "safe mode" any time the check engine light comes on, and won't let the tranny shift. This is starting to feel like a scam to me, maybe VW is just trying to get me into the dealership over and over again...

    Please help! :(

    Isaac
  • foxmartfoxmart Member Posts: 2
    On the rpms being too high, you are correct, they are high and to my opinion is the way VW Jettas are (2.0 engine) no matter if you fill up the tank or not. My mpg average was 24 miles a gallon city and highway driving combined.

    My experience:

    I bought a 2000 VW Jetta GLS leather package, sunroof, heated seats, premium sound (pre owned-certified) from McKenna VW dealer in Norwalk, CA, a city part of Los Angeles County, on December 2001 with 38,000 miles on it. On the test drive I noticed the high rpms and I was looking for the overdrive button, which it didn’t have. At the end of the test drive the check engine light came on, and the salesman told me that the dealer would fix it. Anyways I closed the deal and bought the car for $16000.

    The dealer fixed the problem that caused the engine light to come on, the first, second and third time!!! My Jetta spend more time in the dealer than with me for the first two weeks. For Jetta owners out there, the check engine light will also come on if you didn’t close the gas tank cap properly after you pumped gas. Make sure to close it well and see if the check engine light goes off while you're driving, this happened to me a couple of times. Besides that, my Jetta also consumed oil about a quart every 500 miles, I’ve check on the internet and the high rpms, oil consumption seems to be common on this year model, so be careful.

    The light on the A/C, fan, heat controls was replaced twice, once under my two year warranty and the other was after my warranty expired, it cost me about $100. (The third time I did not fix it) The part (light) cost about $ 3.00 the rest was labor $90.00 an hour and tax. Maintaining and repairing this car is quiet expensive and most of the work has to be done at the dealer. So I bought a repair manual to learn more about my Jetta and on different occasions I replaced both head light bulbs, a side marker light and a rear light bulb saving my self a few hundred dollars.

    I had the front passenger side window fall inside the door (on a rainy day) I went straight to the dealer, they fixed it, the second time I had the drivers side window falling, however, this time I caught it before it fell completely inside the door, put my note pad in between the window and the door and I was able to hold it until I went to the dealer next morning. They also fixed it. Months later I received a recall notice about the windows malfunction, so I believe VW replaced mine with stronger window holders. I received two more recall notices later on.

    On December 2004 at 76,000 miles the ABS (Anti-lock Brake System) light came on and also the battery needed to be replaced. My Jetta had a little hesitation starting up and the panel lights weren’t as bright as before. I read on my repair manual that when the battery voltage is low the ABS light will come on because it is entirely dependent on electrical signals, A built -in safety circuit monitors low battery voltage and when this is detected, the ABS is automatically shut down, and the warning light will come on. ABS is not operational but normal braking is still available. Therefore I wanted to replace the battery first to see if the ABS light goes off, the dealer quoted me $300.00 to change the battery. I could not do it myself because if I disconnected the battery I will lose all the code settings on the car including the radio (once I put the new battery) I will need the code to make the radio work again, so this job was for the dealer. I waited until 2005 to do it.

    On late February 2005, I was about to go to the VW dealer to get the battery changed, take care of my car’s regular maintenance and to inquire about the ABS light being on, but a day before going to the dealer, I found a pink color fluid on the floor where I park my car, I checked the coolant reservoir and it was at half, I turned the car on and I had another warning light on, this time was the cooling light. I had a coolant leak some where at 80000 miles. I took my Jetta to a local mechanic, I didn’t want to drive to the dealer thinking that the engine was going to blow up on me, the mechanic told me and showed me that the leak came from one of the head gaskets in the engine and by looking at the radiator cap that the coolant and oil were starting to mix. He also told me that this was unusual for a car with this mileage, that this was a big job and recommended me to go to the dealer and that it may take several days to fix. If you look on the Yellow pages there are not too many places to take a VW for repairs that are independent from the dealer. The mechanic put more coolant on the reservoir. That gave enough time to decide on letting this car go.

    I had $3000 left to pay on my auto loan, and I had at least $1500 or more on repairs and maintenance to do on my car for the moment. By researching Edmunds.com and reading about other Jetta owners problems (the problems that didn’t happen to me yet) I decided to get a new car this time. I did more research, to make sure that I wasn’t going to make another mistake. So on early April I went to a Toyota dealer and trade in my Jetta, (I used Edmunds.com trade in calculator, so I knew before hand my best case scenario trade in value), I had a little equity, it was worth more than I owed, that plus a down payment and I got my self a brand new Camry.

    Yes, my Jetta was a fun car to drive, don’t get me wrong, it made me feel good (great sound system) It looked different, young, sporty, elegant and expensive (the kind of car for the crowd that could not afford a BMW 330) and it had more standard features that you could find on a car costing more, on the inside you could feel good quality materials. However it was not a reliable car, it is the car the you must avoid if you are planning to buy it used. (Well, now there is the new design). Some may say it is normal wear and tear, I just say and I admit it was just a good looking bad car, I always had the feeling of what is going to happen to it next.

    I don’t know for sure if Volkswagen corrected all the problems on the Jetta from 00-to 05-model year. What I know is that VW sales are down, other products on its line are having problems like the Toureg for example. As a whole some big European auto makers are having problems with quality and reliability, therefore don’t let the name plate or price fool you. Do some research.

    Let see if the new re-design Jetta will make up for all the shortfalls of the old model it is replacing. Yes, I drive a Toyota Camry now, perhaps the car that doesn’t match my personality, but I feel satisfied and for a long time I feel worry free knowing that I wont be having car troubles hopefully for a long time. The car buyer always expect more for less, and sometimes the buyer pays more for an upscale brand thinking to be better off, however to get less down the road. Always consider,quality,reliability and cost of ownership instead of looks and brand.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    It sounds like it has worked out for you.....enjoy your Camry ( they are good cars) and feel comfortable that it will last a long time.
  • haemonhaemon Member Posts: 19
    I am considering purchasing a used Jetta (figured it would be pretty inexpensive considering the new body-style just came out), but am not sure that that is a sound decision considering some of the problems that the Jetta has had. Does anyone out there have any thoughts on whether such a purchase would be prudent? Are there particular model years or engine types I should stay away from? I used to own a Golf with the Turbo engine and loved the way the car drove, but I did have service problems (nothing major; just annoying stuff). Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Well, I don't know how popular this opinion is going to be on this board, but I would never buy a used VW of recent vintage. We're now at the end of the model cycle for the Mk4 Jetta/Golf, and yet there are still owners out there who have horror stories to tell about new problems that crop up, and worse, the nearly complete inability of the dealer body to take care of problems on the first try. I think it's hopeless. There is always the possiblity that you will find a great used one, and that your local dealer is competent and reasonable - but I think that would make you a member of an elite minority.

    Our best friends have an '02 Passat that now has 63k miles on it, and aside from the coil pack recall, has largely been trouble-free; but he is under no illusions about how "typical" his experience has been. I am driving an '02 Mercedes C240, another car that is supposed to be nothing but trouble, and we have had no significant problems and I love driving the car [it is our 14th MB and 53rd car overall since 1962]...but I won't pretend that my experience somehow negates the numbers tilting the other way from the statistics that are out there.

    As much as anything else, it is the continued number of scary stories I read here and on other websites about the VW dealer body that give me considerable pause about VW ownership. You're rolling the dice - if you get lucky, it will be a fine used car choice....if not....
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Well, if they, at VW, consider oil consumption of 8/10 of a Qt. of oil per 1,000 miles as normal, that would give me pause in buying one. Now, if they could put in writing that the 2.0 engine would be replaced with a new engine if it burned oil at a rate of less than a Quart per 3,000 miles, I may be game to try a Jetta. Just from the test drive, it seemed like the little underpowered engine had sufficient torque off the line, but pooped out quickly. The interior looks great, but if ( that's if ) half of the problems listed here are common problems with the car, I would walk away. In looking at Consumer Reports, it does not look too promising. I live in a college town, and there are plenty running around here. They look cool, in the pre -2005 model, and I was considering one, but I doubt it now. They have telescopic steering column and such, but I don't look forward to problems with a car.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Make sure you look at 2003 and later models. You will have much better success in avoiding the bugs that plagued the 1999 through 2002 models.
  • bartman227bartman227 Member Posts: 5
    Could be plugs & wires...... Having the same issue with my 2000 Jetta VR6. am replacing with Neuspeed wires & and BENQ ultraX spark plugs.
    I'll write back next week and let you know how it works out.
    MAF & O2 sensor were replaced and they fixed "sporadic" performance issues.

    Also does it happen when the car is wet? If so then it's probably wires........
    PS I'm not the mechanical expert many who post here are, so don't take my advice as the end-all be-all.........
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Hey Bartman, where did you get your Neuspeed wires ? I am looking for wires for my daughters Golf .

    She has complained about one cylinder not firing while driving in the rain... Being the daughter of an electrical engineer, she has the training (from me) to be able to isolate vehicle problems quite admirably.... but I was never able to interest her is actually WORKING on her vehicles... go figure ;-)
  • eklundeklund Member Posts: 3
    MY WIFES 2000 VR6 JETTA HAS A ENGINE WARNING LIGHT THAT HAS BEEN COMING ON AND OFF FOR A WHILE NOW THE CODE SCANNER COMES UP WITH PO420 FOR A CODE I THINK IT HAS SOMTHING TO DO WITH EMMISIONS I HAVE CHANGES THE PLUGS OIL&FILTER AND AIR FILTER WANTED TO CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER BUT NEED A SPECIAL TOOL TO DISCONNECT THE FUEL LINES BUT CAN`T FIND ONE THE DEALER SAYES IT`S ABOUT 12O BUCKS TO CHANGE I GOT THE FILTER 15 BUCKS LATER BUT HATE TO SPEND BIG MONEY TO CHANGE THE FILTER WHER CAN I FIND A DISCONNECT TOOL AND ANY IDEAS ON THE ODBII CODE PO420 SOMTHING ABOUT LOW CAT EFFICENCY FRONT BANK THANKS
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.