Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

classicjetta

Thanks for the advice everybody! Much appreciated.

road_hawk

If it's electrical, it's going to break. On Jetta, that is. I had my Jetta GLS III (Mexico brand)since 1994 and put a square bunch of miles on it. I will not bore the readers with the list of malfunctions. Just 2 years ago I donated the car to my son to drive it in Canada. At that time, the two rear windows were already held shut by wooden sticks inside the door but I didn't think too much of it since my son doesn't have any kids and drives mostly alone. But the contagious electrical disease spread to the front windows as well along with rapidly weakening A/C. With the mileage on the car being pretty high I don't think anyone will invest $2000 in fixing the windows. Does anyone have experience with converting Jetta to a convertible or driving with the wet towel around the head?

scrooksin

I just bougrht a 2000 Jetta with 91,ooo miles on it. i have a couple questions. One, how many miles can the Jettas rack up before any major concerns. I just sold my 97 Accord with 215,000 miles and am wondering if i'll have as good of luck with the VW. Next, my MIL light came on a couple days ago and my car is running at 100%. i did the whole gas cap thing and nothing. Should i waste my money and have all sorts of stuff fixed on it like others have had to do or should i just ride and pay attention to any weird sounds. Lastly, do VW Jettas rev higher, say 3900 RPMs at 80MPH? Thanks for any info you can provide!

tunes1

Six months ago, I bought a 1998 Jetta for my daughter and recently noticed that the low beams are really dim and are no brighter than when they are in the daytime running light mode (It's possible that lowbeam and daytime running light mode is supposed to be the same brightness, but either way, they are awfully dim). The brights are brighter, though they don't seem as bright as my other vehicles. I recently changed the bulbs to ones that are supposed to be 50% brighter, but I see no apparent difference. Anybody have a clue what's going on?

tdi_tan

If you just want to quiet it down a bit, consider adding a viscosity improver such as "STP oil treatment" or "Motor Honey" to the oil. I found that adding "STP oil treatment" to the above-mentioned golf really helped quiet it down.

I would suggest that you consider NOT using the Castrol Syntec 5W50. The "5W" means that this oil quite thin at startup (especially being a quasi-synthetic oil) The "50" means that it may be too thick to properly lubricate some parts of the engine properly. (look at the oil-specs for this engine!)

I would recommend the opposite. When you add a visocity index improver such as STP or equivalent, it "improves" the viscosity over the whole temperature range -- and you do not know what is the viscosity of the resulting oil mixture. In many cases it can be thicker than the 5w50 you are not recommending!!!

At least using, 5w50, you know it has the 5-weight properties during startup

bpeebles

I understand the appearance of inconsistancies in my suggestions. Lets keep in mind I was discussing several possible solutions to the complaint....all based on the answer to one very important question.

"How long do you want to hold on to this vehicle?"

More specifically, a viscosity improver also contains a lot of extra detergents. These 2 items combined do two things for an engine in this conditon.

1) Reduce bleed-off of oil from the hydrolic adjusters during non-running. (quieter startups)

2) Removes gunk from inside the hydrolic adjusters which allows them to work better.

In the case of the Golf I was discussing, after a SINGLE treatment with STP oil treatment, the engine exibited quieter startups over the next several oil changes (NO STP IN THE OIL!)

In other words.
*)Cheep quick fix... pour somthing in the oil.
*)Proper fix... remove head and rework it.

Personally, a $1500 head job was not the right decesion when the vehicle only needs to last another year or so.

carnut8

Those dials should light up. Mine burnt out, if you take it to the dealer it should only be @ $40 to fix.

beetle_slayer

Pull the center (blower control) knob off--just grap it tight and pull out. Use some tweezers to pull out the old bulb from the center of the ac controls and replace it.

doil

Anyone aware of, or possibly know a solution to the following. My engine coolant light constantly comes on even though the coolant level is fine. Secondly the car does not recognize when the drivers side door is open. I've checked the fuses for both issues. Thanks

bpeebles

The "engine coolant light" has 2 functions.
1) Tells you when coolant is low in the resivour bottle.
2) Tells you when engine is overheating

I suspect that #2 above is not the case so I will talk about #1.

There is an electrical plug on the side of the resivour bottle. Those 2 connections are connected to 2 prongs which dip into the antifreeze. If the antifreexe does not touch the 2 prongs, it will light the "engine coolant light".

A common issue is that the antifreeze is just a bit too low which causes the "engine coolant light" to come on. To fix this, add up to a 1/2 cup of distilled water to the resivour bottle. The coolant should be at least to the center "seam" of the bottle when stone cold.

Please let us know if that does not help the problem.

=========
As for the door, there is a magnetic sensor in the door that may need to be replaced. This is not an uncommon failure.

doil

Thanks for the reply. I tried the water thing after calling VW service department a few weeks ago and it hasn't seemed to solve the problem. The door idea is probably right, I dropped my car off at service last night - $100 just to check the coolant and door problem, should find out soon. I will post what the dealer tells me.

mn_pat

On 2 occasions the car has either stalled while driving or not started. The consistent detail is moisture. On the occasion of the stall I had just drive thru a huge puddle and on the occasion of the no-start it was 35 degrees and rainy/snowy. Am I on the right track to think its moisture that causes the issue? If so what more can I do than replace the plugs and wires? Any additional ideas or opinions are welcome.

Thanks- Pat

doil

I just got back from the dealer. Appearantly on my 2003 Jetta 1.8 turbo I have the following problems:
Low coolant light
New Coolant resevoir $130
New Coolant temp sensor $250
Drivers side door not recognized as open
New door control module $320

Please help - I know nothing about cars.

bpeebles

your 2003 is no longer under warantee? (I am pretty sure my 2003 still is)

It is unlikely that your reseviour bottle is bad unless it is leakling. I am not sure what sensor they are thinking of (the sensor is IN the resivour bottle and is part of the bottle.)

I suppose they *may* be refering to the overtemp sensor that screws into the engine. Is your temperture gauge working OK?

I sounds to me as if they are just "shotgunning" the problem at your expense.

shotgunning = replace lots of stuff in the hopes of fixing a problem because they dont have a clue.

doil

No, not still under warranty, I commuted a lot. Tell me about I am like what - ~1000 plus for a door light and engine coolant light. The funny thing is they called and were like oh your oil pan is loose you need a new one, those are $450. I was so pissed and dissapointed I could hardly stand it.

doil

Yes my temp gauge is working just fine. The magnet in the door sounds more like the problem to me that you mentioned earlier. I am taking it to a different dealer for a second opinion later this week.

fish8

Maybe you should look for an independent shop that works on VW's.

kristina1

I just had a major problem with the electronics in the doors. The car is 6mos old. I have to go legal. I've been to the dealer twice, with the car that's covered by warranty of course and ended up with a $500 bill. No one takes responsibility.
Any advice?
I'll probably try the DMV consumer protection dept.

redjetta03

I have had my Jetta for almost a year and this morning the EPC light came on. I was about to leave for lunch and the gears (automatic) would not get out of park. So would anyone know what this problem would be?

i have roadside coming to get me.
RedJetta

600kgolfgt

Check the ignition coil (which is mounted on the firewall - just follow the middle wire from the ignition distributor and it will lead you there).

If the coil has any cracks, replace it (or have it replaced). Once water or any moisture gets into any crack on the ignition coil, it will stop your engine dead in its tracks.

600kgolfgt

I agree with fish8...

Once your Jetta is out of warranty, run as fast as you can out of the dealership and find a good, independent VW mechanic. That's what I plan to do once my 2003 1.8T Jetta's warranty expires. I know 3 good VW mechanics in my area (that I've dealt with at least 10 years or more)...

galogvi

I have had the same problem for the last few months on my '02 and from what I have read on other forums, this is a common problem on the Gen IV Jettas.

Unfortunately, mine only occurs when the temperature is below freezing, and I know if I bring it to the dealer they will tell me those infamous words - "We can't seem to replicate the problem."

From what I have read it is most always caused by the reservoir tank itself - not the probes or the sensor. If not under warranty, you can probably pick up a new reservoir for under $30 and replace it yourself. I read a DIY on vwvortex that describes this process.

I'm still under warranty, so I'll probably drop it off one night after I receive notification of the latest recall which none of the local dealers want to confirm - Faulty Hazard light switch replacement.

Good luck!

bpeebles

There are 2 different issues being discussed here. The issue with the coolant indicator coming on ONLY WHEN FIRST STARTED COLD is a very easy thing to fix. I have seen and corrected this issue on many VWs over the years. (Not just GEN IV either)

When the antifreeze level is right on the cusp of being too low, it contracts when it is cold and uncovers the probes in the resevour tank. This makes the light come on. After the antifreeze warms up, it expands and touches the probes causing the light will go out.

To correct this issue, simply add some G12 antifreeze (or distilled water) to the resivour.

Like with all machines, this and all other issues can be easilly corrected when the underlying root cause is realized. I make a living troubleshooting and fixing complex systems. An automobile is far simpler than the systems I usually work on.

The problem doil is talking about does not match the "only when cold" failure signiture and most likely has some other root cause.

The resivour tank is just a plastic bottle, it cannot POSSIBLY cause any issues with the indicator. However, the electric connector or probes that are molded into the tank have some known possible problems. (All of which can be easilly isolated with an ohmmeter and basic troubleshooting skills.)

Find a mechanic with some troubleshooting skills! Not one that just hooks your car up to a diagnostic computer and blindly pushes the buttons. Remember, their job is to SELL PARTS... not necessarrly to fix your car.

fish8

Your post was a little vague. What was the $500.00 for?

mn_pat

I've know the part. Any gothca's that I need to be aware of when I replace it. It looks simple enough. It needs to simple for me, I more of a swear'r than a mechanic.

whyvw

Thanks for the tip. I have a similar problem. During the last 3 car washes (all in this winter), my '97 Jetta stalls and quits. Even when it starts, it stalls and stops within 100 meters. I will try this tip posted by 600kgolfgt !

jetta_dad

I want to buy an inner tie rod removal tool for a '97 Jetta GLS, 2.0 L. I need the manufacturer, and model # of the tool. Thanks

600kgolfgt

I know a VW mechanic who has a simple coil test. While the engine is running, he takes a spray bottle full of water, and gives the coil a couple of squirts. If the coil is good, the engine runs. If it has cracks in it, the engine will die immediately.

As an engineer, That's my favorite example of using a simple test to solve a complex problem...:-)

markb2

Help! - Do you know of any problems/details about replacing rear brake pads on a 2000 Jetta? I attempted to replace the disk pads yesterday and could not push the caliper piston back into the caliper. I figured I must be doing something wrong and should ask before I break something.

ruking1

C clamps and for the rear calipers "windback tool".

markb2

I've only used a C-clamp on disk brakes before - what's a "windback tool" and where can I get one?

wetwillie

"- what's a "windback tool" and where can I get one?"

The piston needs to rotate as well as push. You can get one from Metalnerds for ~ $40.

ruking1

The rear calipers have a "self" adjustment feature. Look at the rear caliper with the round disc, covered by rubber. So the concept is when you back up this adjusts the rear brakes closer to the rotor by a screw type mechanism. So when you "windback" you are screwing the adjustment in so you can fit a thicker (new) brake pad.

The oem recommended special tool is the best, but there are much cheaper ones at you local auto parts store (10-12). Ask for a rear brake caliper windback tool. Here is a more expensive visual

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/AP-7860.html

alcan

Rear calipers with integral parking brake have a jackscrew inside the caliper. The screw rotates when the parking brake is applied, forcing the piston out and applying the brake. The piston has to be rotated back down the jackscrew when changing pads. Has nothing to do with self-adjusting. Make sure the dust boot doesn't stick to the piston when rotating it (WD40 helps), and that the notches in the piston are oriented to the tabs on the back of the brake pad. Here's a 10 buck tool that'll work:

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=399

ruking1

I amy have been unclear, your explanation is clearer. I stand corrected.

emmylyyn

So i bought a 2000 Jetta, 2.0 and it has approx 77,000 miles. My check engine light randomly turned on but my car runs perfect. (i called the dealer and i already checked the gas cap) A week after it turned on, it turned off. But the next morning was back on again. I reeeallly dont want to pay $70 to have it tested. Anyone know what could be the problem?

alcan

Have AutoZone retrieve the stored trouble codes (no charge) and post them.

lovejetta2

i just got a 89 jetta my dream car but i dont know much about it so please help me.

1. what years will interchange with mine

2. what is the biggest motor that will go into the 89 jetta.

3. where is the best place to find performance parts for the 89 jetta

markb2

Thanks! Your response and the one from ruking1 helped me out a lot - I ended up getting a free loaner tool from Murray's Discount Auto and finished the job without any problems - you were right about the dust boot sticking to the piston. I had much more wear on the outboard pad on the drivers side then on any other pad - is uneven wear a common problem?

kashi

Hi.

I own a 2000 VW Jetta, 4 cylinder, manual transmission. Recently the temperature sensor
(Coolant light?) has been going on only when first started cold. Now, today, the check engine light in on and is staying on.

In response to the above post, could the antifreeze level be an issue? If so, would low levels of antifreeze eventually effect the check engine sensor?

Thanks in advance for your time!

Kashi

jedwin

Dear Don, I have the same problem, intermittant cruise control, i also have a 96 Jetta diesel, have you had any luck, the mechanics i have asked don't know anything about it and i don't want to pay some one to go fishing, I think it is a common problem, tks John

alcan

I had much more wear on the outboard pad on the drivers side then on any other pad - is uneven wear a common problem?

It is if the caliper slides aren't free and well lubricated with silicone grease or brake lube.

flaco

Hi.

I have a 2001 model jetta, and a 2000 little girl...

Does any one know how to take apart the passenger side air vent, she pushed one of the air horizontal bars and snapped it out of place, I took it to the dealer to have it fixed, but the dealer wants to replace the whole unit $90 worth...

I can see the bar is not broken on either side but I cannot take it out.

Thanks...

bpeebles

For your coolant light coming on only when cold... the most common issue is the antifreeze being a tad low in the resivour bottle. It should be right around the "seam" on the resivour.

To fix it, you may add up to a cup of distilled water. If it needs more than that, use ONLY G12 antifreeze. No other antifreeze is acceptable.

For the CEL (Check Engine Light), it could be almost anything. Many auto parts stores will "pull the code" for free and tell you what code has made the CEL come on.

Once you know what code made the light come on, post it here an we may be able help out.

bpeebles

Almost all of the VW interior just snaps together. That vent assembly is no exception. It just snaps into the dashboard.

The trick is that it is designed (German enginering) to snap TOGETHER and is not very easy to take apart. One trick is to make sure it is WARM so soften it up a bit so it is more flexable.

Running the heater on high for 20 minutes should warm it up nicely. Then carefully pry it out. If you can identify where the snaps are, you should concentrate on them. (I beleive 2 on top and 2 on bottom) I would start on the bottom so if I mar the plastic, it will be less obvious.

If you break it, or cannot fix it once it is removed. Any salvage yard will have a large supply of VWs with vents you can procure for cheep.

When I go to a salvage yard, I often have a list of items I am looking for. I take my own tools and ask them where the VWs are. Once I locate the row of VWs, I select the best parts and fill a bag with them. Once back to the front desk of the salvage yard with my bag of parts, the cost is always VERY reasonable. (like $10 for a bag full of stuff.)

My current list (Still waiting for the the snow to melt by June ;-) includes a latch for the center-console for my daughters VW and some other various items. (headlight bulbs are a good item to grab too)

600kgolfgt

It is more than likely the cruise control switch - not the one on the turn signal control stalk, but the electrical/vacuum actuated switch that controls the gas pedal. Do a google search on "1996 VW Jetta Cruise Control switch" and you will see links to auto parts sites that sell the switch. It goes for about $45.00

flaco

Thank you very much, I´ll give it a try...

emmylyyn

Thanks for the reply, I took it to Auto Zone and they said my O2 censor isn't reading right. Are those fairly easy to put on yourself, without having a mechanic to it?

bpeebles

Although I have no specific knowledge about your VW, most O2 sensors that I have dealt with simply screw into the exhaust manifold. (almost like a spark-plug) There is a "pigtail" wire harness that comes out of O2 sensor with a connector plug at the end.

You could ask the AutoZone guy to show you what the O2 sensor for your car looks like.

The exhaust manifold on a VW is on the firewall side of the engine. This makes access to the O2 sensor more difficult.

Asian vehicles, on the other hand, usually have the exhaust twards the FRONT of the vehicle and the O2 sensor is sticking up right in front of you when you open the hood. (between the engine and the radiator)

Consider yourself lucky that you have ony ONE O2 sensor... my Dodge truck with the semi-Hemi V8 has 4 O2 sensors and 3 catalytic converters.

alcan

They love to sell O2 sensors. Please post the code numbers retrieved. No point in replacing a sensor if it's doing it's job, reporting an engine operating anomaly.