Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

pruzink

With regards to the light bulb that back lights the HVAC controls, it went out on my daughter's car. Her car still had the bumper to bumper extended warranty coverage so I told her to take it to the dealer to have it replaced. They told her that bulb goes out quite often and was not covered under the warranty. I found someone that posted the procedure to change it (the post has great pictures too) on "tdiclub.com". This is the excerpt from the post (much better with the pics) "A common problem with these cars is the little light bulb in the heater controls burn out. It is quite easy to change yourself. I did one today, so I thought I would snap some pics for those who want to view them.

The first step is to remove the dial. Its the center dial that needs to be removed. Just get a rag or shop towel to protect the dial from becoming marked by the teeth in the pliers. Using a pair of pliers, just pull it off:

The bulb is quite deep in the hole and unless you have really tiny needle nose pliers, it is tough to get at the bulb. Just use a piece of vacuum tubing to pull it out. just push it over the bulb and it should grip it tight enough to be able to pull it out. If you don't have any vacuum tubing lying around your garage, just pop the hood and borrow some from around the engine.

Now that you have the old bulb out, you can put in the new one. Instalation is reverse of removal.

It can be more difficult to replace the bulb. When pushing it into place, the vacuum tubing can grip the bulb so when you try to pull out the tubing, the bulb comes back out again. The way I get around this is to make a small slit in one end of the tubing and use that end to push it in with. The slit does not allow a firm grip so it can be pulled off more easily.

I am not 100% sure about this, but I think the part # for the bulb is N 017 751 2. Maybe someone can confirm this for me?"

dcpolitico

I am buying a certified used GLS 4.0 and really studying the comments made by everyone and wanted to know what your general thoughts are because when you posted you were not sure you would purchase again. Would you? Suggestions. What dealer should I avoid?

fish8

You mean a 2.0?

bpeebles

WOW! a 4.0 Liter engine in a VW. Is that the W8 engine I have heard about? I thought the W8 was only available in the Passat.

sijay326

I have a 1996 Jetta GLE and I bought it used, but something happened recently and I no one seems to be able to help me. I started the car and it shut down right away for no apparent reason. then I started the car again and it was fine, until I tried to play the radio. the radio Display said "SAFE" and I can't play the radio it wont turn on, only the display with the word safe. Can anybody help...I need my tunes.

fish8

It sounds like your radio lost power. You most likely need to find the security code for the radio and have it reprogrammed...

tripicchio

I own on 02 jetta GLS and was wondering if anyone else had either of the two following problems: 1. when driving at slow, parking-lot speeds, and turning the wheel, I sometimes get a "creaking" noise from near the front tires. Possibly like rubber needs to be lubricated..?? Are there any bushings or the like that need lubricating..??
2. When I start-up my car on a cold morning, I will turn the heater on full-blast and let the car warm up for a great while, sometimes as much as 15 minutes. However, the air comming from the heater is still cool/cold. When I start driving, even for say 10-15 seconds, the air is immediately hot. It seems that there is no way to have the car hot when I start driving...Every-other car I have owned was able to eventually have hot air blowing before I started driving..??

ruking1

1. I have not had the problem of the creaking noise near the front tires. But then I have made it a standard part of the yearly and or 40k maintenance to clean and lubricate all exposed rubber fittings I can find and as a baseline did the clean and lubrication when the vehicle was brand new. A likely scenario would be the rubber bushings on the front sway bar.

2. In regards to the start up on cold mornings, barring anything that could be wrong, you wont see any improvement. I would just start it up and drive away. This in your case seems to solve the concern.

The other concern that I notice my 2003 Jetta TDI is the air conditioning unit at speed and higher temps (95-110 ambient) does not cool down the cabin like my other cars do. I think it is the cold side problem of perhaps the heating and AC not being of size capacity necessary for the cooling I am used to in other vehicles.

mn_pat

I have a 98 Jetta, this is how I got my radio back

1.) you need the security code, do you know the radio code?

2.) enter the code using radio presets 1 thru 4

3.) press the right side of ">" button for longer than 2 seconds.

Kirstie_H

A reporter is wondering if anyone has had trouble getting parts for cars and trucks from the 1985-1997 model year. If you have a story to share, please send it to jfallon@edmunds.com by Friday, November 19, 2004.
Thanks!

gdavis

Hi all
I have a 2002 (June) Jetta 1.8 T, 29K miles. Besides numerous problems such as the CD player failing, horns going out, door handles peeling, AC outlets breaking, and "Check engine" lights a-glowing, I have one SERIOUS problem.

When the car is cold, I put it in drive or reverse and press the brake. It shakes front to back. This goes away if the car is in park, I am accelerating or coasting, or when the car warms up. It has been to the dealer 3 other times besides today, and different things have been blamed. Engine timing, those faulty ignition coils (which were replaced), and air intake. Each time I find the problem to remain unsolved.

Saturday this shaking became so VIOLENT that it frightened me and my passenger. And we don't scare easily. It has been towed to the shop.

Does anyone know what is wrong with this car? They say my motor mounts are fine.

What are my options? How do I get VW to hand me a check for the original purchase price so I can get the HELL out of VW land? The lemon law doesn't apply, since it occurred 2K miles outside the required time.

Help is appreciated! Thanks in advance.
g

derekgdw

VW appears to be hit or miss for service departments (like any other automaker)

Does anyone have any experiences with VW service centers in the North / Northwest Chicago Suburban area? Good or bad?

The ones around here are

Ed Murphy VW in Schaumburg, IL
Autobarn VW in Mount Prospect, IL
Jennings VW in Glenview, IL
Liberty VW in Libertyville, IL
North Shore VW in Highland Park, IL

I'd think with that selection there should be at least one that's good. ;-)

A friend of mine was talking about getting a Jetta and I think that's a good car provided they can find a good service center to take it to.

Not because I think the Jetta is that much worse than anything else out there, things can and will go wrong with any car you purchase. (Toyotas, Hondas etc are not immune) You want a dealership who will be happy to help you in any way they can with issues that arise otherwise it makes the ownership experience rather painful no matter how much you like the car. (even if you've had a relatively problem free ownership experience)

largowinch

Hello,
I drive a 2003 Jetta Station Wagon 1.8T (about 18.500 miles on it)and recently experienced a weird sound coming from my engine when accelerating the car in situations requiring more power or the turbo, i.e. on freeway on-ramps or while passing a car. Once my engine goes beyond 2500 rpm during acceleration, I can hear a sound coming from the right front of the car that sounds a little bit like compressed air being released or a vacuum cleaner being turned. No sounds can be heard during driving at a constant speed such as cruising on a freeway, but whenever one would expect the turbo to kick in, the sound turns up and the car takes longer to build up power and speed (although, eventually, it does kick in). Has anybody had a similar experience and can enlighten me to what goes on here? Is it serious? Any input or feedback would be highly appreciated.

bpeebles

That sounds like an air leak between the turbocharger and the intake plenum.

When creating boost, the turbocharger is making pressure to PUSH the air into the engine. Any small leak would sound like a wooshing sound.(only while accellerating)

Another symptom you describe confirms my diagnosis. (slow to build up power)

The most common thing that happens is that one of the hose-connections pops apart. It is usually a simple matter to push it back together and tighten the hose clamp

dcmur21

I have a serious electrical problem. The speedometer and odometer do not work and the engine light is on. At my wits end with Congressional VW of Rockville, Md., I took the car last week to a private Volks mechanic at Wheaton Service Center. They replaced the speed sensor, but it didn't fix the problem. Then the mechanic noticed antifreeze had migrated through the wire harness and was somehow affecting the electrical components. He said Volkswagen USA is aware that this problem is occurring in some cars and that I should take it to a registered dealer or service shop to explore the next course of action. In two-and-half years of ownership--having bought the car certified pre-owned--I have driven the car just 17,000 miles. Yet, I have had numerous problems--both electrical and with regards to customer service through Congressional VW. At present, I still owe $8,000 on the loan. Yet Carmax won't give me $3,000 for the car in its current condition, despite the fact that it has been well-maintained. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I hear the wiring harness can cost a few thousand to replace.

bpeebles

You are victom to the ol' "coolant migraton problem". If not caught and correctd very early when it starts happening, virtually the entire wiring harness is trashed.

It is FARRR better to identify and correct this problem BEFORE it destroys the wiring harness and other electrical components. I check all of my VWs for this problem every time I am under the hood. Drilling a small hole in the proper place will PREVENT the electrical system from being damaged.

Unfortunately, you need to deal with VW and I wish you the best. Perhaps you can strike a deal wheras you can split the repair costs with them. If you choose to NOT replace the wiring harness, expect all kinds of electrical problems for the life if the vehicle.

There are some other band-aid repairs that may help reduce the extent of the damage.... but once antifreeze gets INSIDE the wires, it migrates EVERYWHERE. (the wires act like little hoses)

colorado1974

Anybody see the Consumer Reports article in the USA Today this week? Of the list of cars to avoid with the lowest reliability, the VW cars named were the:

Passat
Jetta
New Beetle
Tourag
Golf

That is pretty much every car they make except for the pheaten but give it a year.

bpeebles

This has been discussed in the past.

Lets not forget that Consumer Reports considers ANY glitch as a ding aginast a vehicles "reliability" record. (A burnt-out light bulb is weighed the same as total engine failure.)

Also, CR only asks its SUBSCRIBERS to participate in its survey for reliability. It is well known that this is a very biased way of gathering information. What if the survey was given to only subscribers of a "Mini Magizine" or a "Subarau Monthly" or "Corvette Quarterly"? The results would simply reflect the readership of the magizine.

If you do some research, you will find the CR considers vehicles such as Mercedies-Benz as unreliable too.....Why? because they are FARR more complicated than most other vehicles and there are more things that can have a glitch.

Bottom line:
Virtually NONE of the vechiles that CR rates as "unreliable" will leave you stranded any more fequently than any other vehicle. CRs definition of "reliabile" is simply not a realistic measurement.

Use the CR ratings as a guideline...not as facts.

colorado1974

I do agree that you should take everything with a "grain of salt."

But consider that VW finished next to last in both JD Power Quality Surveys for both short term and long term quality.

Combine that with a sales slide of almost 50% on every model from numbers 3 years ago and you get a pretty dark picture.

To keep up with demand, our local VW dealership in Seattle runs two 8 hour shifts for 6 days a week for the service department.

ruking1

I would agree that VW has a higher (but secret) rate of problematic vehicles.

If the old word of mouth ratio is true; one dissatisfied customer tells a min of 10 and a happy customer MIGHT tell three!?

This ratio might be a reason?

In addition, I have stopped telling folks; unless they ask two to three times. Why? People tend to think you (are) nuts, if you appear happy in the face of numbers that are overwhelmingly against you! Not only that, they tend NOT to believe what you tell them. So if I tell three and 2 walk away in debelief...and the other feels cornered...? do the math!

My 2003 VW Jetta TDI, for one, might be one of the few that VW got right? I dodged the 1.8T and 2.0 engine issues simply because I do not have them! The TDI at 44k seems to consume 4 to 8 oz of oil between 15,000- 20,000 mile oil and filter intervals. It also gets between 44-51 mpg. In a driving rain from San Jose CA to Santa Monica, CA. in a driving rain (rain the whole travel time) I got 50 mpg with a steady 85 mph, even up the LA grapevine! My wife gets between a low of 48 mpg to a more normal 50 mpg, in full rush hour daily commute traffic. I personally can get more like 55-59 mph if I go the 65 mph speed limit. To date I have only done the maintenance intervals, the brakes are projected to last to 120k in the front and because of past history the rears might go to 90,000 miles. The so called oem BAD (Good)year LS-H's are projected to reach 85-117,000 miles!

"To keep up with demand, our local VW dealership in Seattle runs two 8 hour shifts for 6 days a week for the service department. "

The above quote may or may not be good!? If it is true that the majority of dealership work is "warranty" work, this may be the NOT so secret indication!?

tdi_tan

It's been about 6,000 miles...since hearing the noise....

New tires... so it's not tire related
Alignment....helps a bit...but technician did not mention anything about driveshafts or tie rod ends
Driveshaft...not clicking

So it looks like the bearings are shot.

Anyone else replace bearings and at what mileage (86,000 for me).

Time to upgrade....(and plus with that many miles....might as well replace the front brakes)

bpeebles

I have owned about 5 watercooled VWs over the years. It is not unusual to have to replace a wheel-bearing after about 80K miles. In fact this is true for ANY vehicle. (not just VW)

If you think about it, 86K miles is a LOT of revalutions for a wheel-bearing to endure. Calculate the circomfrence of the tire and divide that into 86,000 miles. (that will tell you how many revalutions that bearing has endured.)

Those wheel-bearings have given you many miles of service and dont owe you anything.

tdi_tan

I'm used to Toyota wheel bearings...over 200,000 miles on each of my old cars, and never a wheel bearing failed.

derekgdw

"To keep up with demand, our local VW dealership in Seattle runs two 8 hour shifts for 6 days a week for the service department. "

Well at least it should be easy to schedule a service appointment. :-) I've had issues in the past scheduling service on my Subaru. "Our service dept is only open from 9 to 5 Oh that day that you wanted and could manage to take off of work? Our Subaru/Mazda dept is taking off that day. If you have a Mercury or Lincoln product that needs servicing however that dept is open" That may be a good sign that says that most Subarus don't need a lot of service but I just find it annoying.

Many Toyota dealerships around here hold schedules from fairly early morning until midnight five or six days a week.

dcmur21

A few days back, I wrote a post regarding a diagnoses by a private VW mechanic who claims that the coolant in my 99 VW Jetta VRG is leaking, corroding the wires and infecting the wiring harness, causing both the speedometer and odometer to malfunction.

At the time, the mechanic told me he could not fix the problem and recommended that I take it to a dealer for repairs.

So that's just what I did. Only now the dealer is telling me something else entirely.

The dealer, Marten's VW in Bethesda, Md., said they could not find evidence of the wiring harness problem diagnosed by the previous mechanic (for which I breathed a sigh of relief, as the cost was estimated at more than $3,000).

After looking at my car, they toled me that the problem was minor and that only the main speed sensor needed to be replaced. They said it would cost $250.

When they called me, I was skeptical. I told them that the previous mechanic had already tried to replace the speed sensor and it did not fix the problem. But they stuck to their guns, saying a speed sensor replacement would most certainly fix the problem.

As you can imagine, I was less than surprised when I received a phone call the next day stating that the speed sensor was not the issue and that they had, in fact, found a "much more serious" problem.

Now, I'm told there is a "wobbly differential" in my transmission (whatever that means), which is affecting a different speed sensor within the transmission itself. They say they need to drop the trany and replace the sensor. Total cost: $4,500.

Has anyone had a problem like this? I bought an extended warranty through Fidelity, which may or may not cover the problem. The company claims it has to send an adjuster out to inspect the car (probably so they can try and find something wrong with it that would void the warranty).

I bought the car for $16,000 in May of 2002. Seeing as I still owe $8,000 on the loan, it won’t do me much good to pay $4,000 to get it fixed then turnaround and sell it for a possible $8,000, at best.

If anyone has any ideas, I’m willing to try anything. I already tried VW USA and the lemon lawyers. Have I missed anything? Anything at all?

For those who didn't see my previous post, my car is a 99 Jetta VR6 with 55,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 39,000 miles and have driven it just 16,000 miles in two-and-a-half years of secondhand ownership with appropriate service checks perfoirmed. This is just one of a multitude of problems I've had, including:

*check engine light coming on repeatedly;
*radio power issues;
*windows coming off the tracks;
*O2 sensor issues;
*brake light problems;
*computer failures;
*customer service issues, including one case where a VW dealer told me I needed a new "fan control unit" to fix my AC when apparently only the Freon needed to be recharged (a difference of $300);
*Not to mention issues with the VW body shop with regards to paint jobs;
*and being the victim of three different hit-and-run accidents—all of which occurred in one year and all of which occurred while my car was parked and I was inside—at work, trying to make enough money to pay for the repairs!!!!!!!

Should I sell the car to Carmax for the pathetic price of $3,000 and walk away $5,000 in the hole and without enough money in the bank to pay for a new car? Or, should I stick it out and see what happens with the warranty people (I’m not holding my breath)?

fish8

Sorry to hear about your transmission problem. Since your Jetta has 55K miles on it, the Lemon Law will most likely not assist. Also, I hope you get some good results from your 3rd party warranty company (Fidelity). That is the exact reason why I would never buy a warranty from someone other than the manufacturer. You never know what they will cover or even if they will still be in business when you need them.

I hope this works out for you and good luck.

metro990

what type of problems did u have with the ignition switch???

jetta2

I have an 87 jetta with 108000 miles. Recently shifting was getting very hard to do and when it was in gear especially 5th it would pop back out. Now it does not go into gear at all. Is it a linkage problem or something more serious. Where can I find more information on how to fix it.

bpeebles

Does you 1987 have a shift "linkage" or "cable" operated?

For the "linkage" type, there is a "kit" that costs about $20 that replenishes all of the plastic bushings of the shift linkage... It makes a HUGE difference in the shifter feel.

wht98wb

Need some advise asap. I have a '98 VW Jetta with an automatic transmission. Recently, the transmission started dropping out of drive into neutral when I come to a stop. If I press the accelerator, the engine will begin to rev then the car will jerk forward and then drive normally. No problems with reverse.
At this point, I have had the car looked at by a VW dealership. They changed some of the fluid (as needed for checking the fluid level) and determined that the fluid level was good, and no codes are showing up on their diagnostic computer. So, they are suggesting that I have the transmission serviced ($300) to see if that will fix the problem, otherwise I'm looking at $3100 for a new transmission. But if the transmission is bad, I prefer to trade or sell the car rather than pay the money for the new tranny, so my question is, is it worth a $300 gamble to have the tranmission serviced? Can a simple servicing (replacing filter and fluid) fix a problem like my car is having? Help!

slow43

I am an old driver, lots of cars. I just traded my Passat. I have owned some maintenance hogs and been abused by dealers but VW takes it to a new level. If a reliable car is important to you “Buyer be very aware”.

PS – If you see a full loaded white 2001 Passat sitting on a Toyota lot be warned.

600kgolfgt

I owned a 1987 Golf which had the regular (rod) shift linkage, not the cable linkage. Your 1987 Jetta should have it as well.

martyb1

I've got a 98 jetta tdi with 217 000kms (not sure what that is in miles but I'll say about 180000 miles) and I just replaced the bearings for the first time because of a slight humm so that doesn't sound right in your situation!

martyb1

CEL light is on 217000kms live in Manitoba canada with winter nearing -50 degrees celcius. Last year it was awesome! This year we've had up to minus 10 degrees celcius and the car won't fire! Checked the glowplug fuse in the back of the motor against the firewall and it was melted, replaced it and it melted instantly again! Don't know whats going on! Does anyone know what I should look for?

600kgolfgt

Are those the original glowplugs on your car? If not, when was the last time they were replaced? If they haven't been changed in years, a bad glowplug may potentially cause a situation where the current flow is more than the fuse can handle, resulting in fuse meltdown. I would have each glowplug tested to be on the safe side.

martyb1

Yep they are original glowplugs on the car, I purchased three new ones in hope that not all four are gone, now I just have to change them, wrap some cigarette foil around the burnt par of the connector so I don't waste another one and see how it goes! Reply question to you is that is it obvious when they are blown and not blown(glowplugs)? Thats the part I'm unsure about! Thanks for sending a reply by the way, greatly appreciated!

bpeebles

Of course it is "obvious" when a glowplug is not functioning correctly.

 An OHMmeter can quickly isolate any "problem" glowplug without even removing them from the engine.

You would be wasting your money by just replacing all 4 of them without testing them first. A glowplug is simply an electric heater. It either works or not. A glowplug is NOT like a sparkplug which actually affects the performance of the engine.

More precise current measurements can be taken but one should have experience working with an ammmeter before attempting it.

Also keep in mind that the glowplug wiring harness is often the problem (not the glowplugs themselves.)

runamuck

I own a 2001 Jetta.

So recently, after it rains, I find an inch high puddle of water on the driver's side. The water somehow finds its way to the engine hood release lever.

Has anyone had this problem? If you have, where's the source of the leak and what did you do to fix it?

martyb1

Thank you, you explained that well, thanks again.

rlui1

My 2002 Jetta 1.8T (auto)downshifts very hard when slowing down while braking on an incline. Has anyone else experienced this?

jvcinc

I am owner of a 2003 Jetta GLS TDI purchased new in February 2003with mileage of 30,000. I am experiencing the same problems with my car described in this issue. In fact, today, portions of the front spoiler were pulled off twice by the cement curb stops in two different location. Everytime I park now where there is a curb stop, this happens. If I were not vigilant I would have lost many parts of this portion of the car long ago. This design flaw that has been described for 1999-2002 models can be extended to the 2003 year.
Give me info on how I can join in on the class- action suit initiated in the Miami-Dade Circuit court.
J V Cowan, Houston, TX

tdi_tan

I have the same problem with my 2002 Golf. But I recognize it's my fault for not judging the distance correctly. The reason it's that low is for aerodynamics. Sports cars have this design flaw also, since they sit lower to the ground, and thus the leading edge also, but there are no class action lawsuits from them.

What's the most you'll get from it? A new front spoiler ($100) plus install ($100)?

There is a more important problem....the low riding oil pan. A front spoiler is pennies compared to a busted oil pan. Some of us are lucky (including myself)..I lost my lower engine cover to some potholes....I gotta get the skidplate before my luck runs out and crack the oil pan.

67stingray

I have a 4 cyl 47 GLS. Manual trans. The cruise tries to work than fails. Can feel the pedal depress then unload. Looking for vacuum leak but cannot find . Any Ideas?? Thanks Don

escortowner

what noise is that? I have a Jetta that is in good condition, with only 16,000 miles, but I hear this weird faint rotational hum when I drive...and when I bring down my rear windows the sound exaggerated so much it practically blows my eardrums from the pressure....any thoughts?

tdi_tan

I wouldn't know without riding in the car with you.

escortowner

....I was wondering if anyone knows how to connect an iPod to the Jetta. I have a 2003 jetta. I have heard you can do it through the CD changer outlets - and I know my car doesn't have a CD Changer, but it is wired for one.

Does anyone know how? I have the monsoon sound system if that makes a difference.

tdi_tan

you need a BlitzSafe Aux Input VW/AUX DMX V.5

to work with the iPod. Make sure you get the one for 2002+ VW's (with the CAN-BUS controls)

jvcinc

Thanks for the input. I had come to the same conclusion about minimal return vs. trouble and time involving a law suit. On examination of the edge of the spoiler, I concluded that attaching some type of re-enforcing metal straps over the vinyl part of spoiler would act as a protective skidplate and minimize future occurrences of the vinyl lip of the spoiler from hooking over curb stops, etc. I will also take more driving care in trying to avoid damaging my oil pan.

tdi_tan

I just ordered a skidplate for my car...just to be on the safe side

escortowner

Thanks a lot. Although, I may have told some incorrect information. I said it was pre-wired for a Changer. I am not sure about that now. When I bought it, I thought the salesman said that, but last night I opened the box where the changer is supposed to go, and I didn't see any wires. Well - except a green one that looked like it was just a cover for another wire, and it looked like it was going down to the lights or something.

 

Anyway, I have the Monsoon system with the CD and Cassette. It is a GLS 1.8T - do you know if it is pre-wired?

 

I was looking for the item you requested, and they had the v.5, but they also had a v.3. In the description of the v.3 they made it sound like there was a definite difference between the two. Therefore, I think I should be certain if it is pre-wired or not. Do you know where to get the information to tell if it is pre-wired or not? Also, what is the CAN-BUS control - I couldn't find that anywhere.

 

Thanks for your help.