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The first step is to remove the dial. Its the center dial that needs to be removed. Just get a rag or shop towel to protect the dial from becoming marked by the teeth in the pliers. Using a pair of pliers, just pull it off:
The bulb is quite deep in the hole and unless you have really tiny needle nose pliers, it is tough to get at the bulb. Just use a piece of vacuum tubing to pull it out. just push it over the bulb and it should grip it tight enough to be able to pull it out. If you don't have any vacuum tubing lying around your garage, just pop the hood and borrow some from around the engine.
Now that you have the old bulb out, you can put in the new one. Instalation is reverse of removal.
It can be more difficult to replace the bulb. When pushing it into place, the vacuum tubing can grip the bulb so when you try to pull out the tubing, the bulb comes back out again. The way I get around this is to make a small slit in one end of the tubing and use that end to push it in with. The slit does not allow a firm grip so it can be pulled off more easily.
I am not 100% sure about this, but I think the part # for the bulb is N 017 751 2. Maybe someone can confirm this for me?"
2. When I start-up my car on a cold morning, I will turn the heater on full-blast and let the car warm up for a great while, sometimes as much as 15 minutes. However, the air comming from the heater is still cool/cold. When I start driving, even for say 10-15 seconds, the air is immediately hot. It seems that there is no way to have the car hot when I start driving...Every-other car I have owned was able to eventually have hot air blowing before I started driving..??
2. In regards to the start up on cold mornings, barring anything that could be wrong, you wont see any improvement. I would just start it up and drive away. This in your case seems to solve the concern.
The other concern that I notice my 2003 Jetta TDI is the air conditioning unit at speed and higher temps (95-110 ambient) does not cool down the cabin like my other cars do. I think it is the cold side problem of perhaps the heating and AC not being of size capacity necessary for the cooling I am used to in other vehicles.
1.) you need the security code, do you know the radio code?
2.) enter the code using radio presets 1 thru 4
3.) press the right side of ">" button for longer than 2 seconds.
Thanks!
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I have a 2002 (June) Jetta 1.8 T, 29K miles. Besides numerous problems such as the CD player failing, horns going out, door handles peeling, AC outlets breaking, and "Check engine" lights a-glowing, I have one SERIOUS problem.
When the car is cold, I put it in drive or reverse and press the brake. It shakes front to back. This goes away if the car is in park, I am accelerating or coasting, or when the car warms up. It has been to the dealer 3 other times besides today, and different things have been blamed. Engine timing, those faulty ignition coils (which were replaced), and air intake. Each time I find the problem to remain unsolved.
Saturday this shaking became so VIOLENT that it frightened me and my passenger. And we don't scare easily. It has been towed to the shop.
Does anyone know what is wrong with this car? They say my motor mounts are fine.
What are my options? How do I get VW to hand me a check for the original purchase price so I can get the HELL out of VW land? The lemon law doesn't apply, since it occurred 2K miles outside the required time.
Help is appreciated! Thanks in advance.
g
Does anyone have any experiences with VW service centers in the North / Northwest Chicago Suburban area? Good or bad?
The ones around here are
Ed Murphy VW in Schaumburg, IL
Autobarn VW in Mount Prospect, IL
Jennings VW in Glenview, IL
Liberty VW in Libertyville, IL
North Shore VW in Highland Park, IL
I'd think with that selection there should be at least one that's good. ;-)
A friend of mine was talking about getting a Jetta and I think that's a good car provided they can find a good service center to take it to.
Not because I think the Jetta is that much worse than anything else out there, things can and will go wrong with any car you purchase. (Toyotas, Hondas etc are not immune) You want a dealership who will be happy to help you in any way they can with issues that arise otherwise it makes the ownership experience rather painful no matter how much you like the car. (even if you've had a relatively problem free ownership experience)
I drive a 2003 Jetta Station Wagon 1.8T (about 18.500 miles on it)and recently experienced a weird sound coming from my engine when accelerating the car in situations requiring more power or the turbo, i.e. on freeway on-ramps or while passing a car. Once my engine goes beyond 2500 rpm during acceleration, I can hear a sound coming from the right front of the car that sounds a little bit like compressed air being released or a vacuum cleaner being turned. No sounds can be heard during driving at a constant speed such as cruising on a freeway, but whenever one would expect the turbo to kick in, the sound turns up and the car takes longer to build up power and speed (although, eventually, it does kick in). Has anybody had a similar experience and can enlighten me to what goes on here? Is it serious? Any input or feedback would be highly appreciated.
When creating boost, the turbocharger is making pressure to PUSH the air into the engine. Any small leak would sound like a wooshing sound.(only while accellerating)
Another symptom you describe confirms my diagnosis. (slow to build up power)
The most common thing that happens is that one of the hose-connections pops apart. It is usually a simple matter to push it back together and tighten the hose clamp
It is FARRR better to identify and correct this problem BEFORE it destroys the wiring harness and other electrical components. I check all of my VWs for this problem every time I am under the hood. Drilling a small hole in the proper place will PREVENT the electrical system from being damaged.
Unfortunately, you need to deal with VW and I wish you the best. Perhaps you can strike a deal wheras you can split the repair costs with them. If you choose to NOT replace the wiring harness, expect all kinds of electrical problems for the life if the vehicle.
There are some other band-aid repairs that may help reduce the extent of the damage.... but once antifreeze gets INSIDE the wires, it migrates EVERYWHERE. (the wires act like little hoses)
Passat
Jetta
New Beetle
Tourag
Golf
That is pretty much every car they make except for the pheaten but give it a year.
Lets not forget that Consumer Reports considers ANY glitch as a ding aginast a vehicles "reliability" record. (A burnt-out light bulb is weighed the same as total engine failure.)
Also, CR only asks its SUBSCRIBERS to participate in its survey for reliability. It is well known that this is a very biased way of gathering information. What if the survey was given to only subscribers of a "Mini Magizine" or a "Subarau Monthly" or "Corvette Quarterly"? The results would simply reflect the readership of the magizine.
If you do some research, you will find the CR considers vehicles such as Mercedies-Benz as unreliable too.....Why? because they are FARR more complicated than most other vehicles and there are more things that can have a glitch.
Bottom line:
Virtually NONE of the vechiles that CR rates as "unreliable" will leave you stranded any more fequently than any other vehicle. CRs definition of "reliabile" is simply not a realistic measurement.
Use the CR ratings as a guideline...not as facts.
But consider that VW finished next to last in both JD Power Quality Surveys for both short term and long term quality.
Combine that with a sales slide of almost 50% on every model from numbers 3 years ago and you get a pretty dark picture.
To keep up with demand, our local VW dealership in Seattle runs two 8 hour shifts for 6 days a week for the service department.
If the old word of mouth ratio is true; one dissatisfied customer tells a min of 10 and a happy customer MIGHT tell three!?
This ratio might be a reason?
In addition, I have stopped telling folks; unless they ask two to three times. Why? People tend to think you (are) nuts, if you appear happy in the face of numbers that are overwhelmingly against you! Not only that, they tend NOT to believe what you tell them. So if I tell three and 2 walk away in debelief...and the other feels cornered...? do the math!
My 2003 VW Jetta TDI, for one, might be one of the few that VW got right? I dodged the 1.8T and 2.0 engine issues simply because I do not have them! The TDI at 44k seems to consume 4 to 8 oz of oil between 15,000- 20,000 mile oil and filter intervals. It also gets between 44-51 mpg. In a driving rain from San Jose CA to Santa Monica, CA. in a driving rain (rain the whole travel time) I got 50 mpg with a steady 85 mph, even up the LA grapevine! My wife gets between a low of 48 mpg to a more normal 50 mpg, in full rush hour daily commute traffic. I personally can get more like 55-59 mph if I go the 65 mph speed limit. To date I have only done the maintenance intervals, the brakes are projected to last to 120k in the front and because of past history the rears might go to 90,000 miles. The so called oem BAD (Good)year LS-H's are projected to reach 85-117,000 miles!
"To keep up with demand, our local VW dealership in Seattle runs two 8 hour shifts for 6 days a week for the service department. "
The above quote may or may not be good!? If it is true that the majority of dealership work is "warranty" work, this may be the NOT so secret indication!?
New tires... so it's not tire related
Alignment....helps a bit...but technician did not mention anything about driveshafts or tie rod ends
Driveshaft...not clicking
So it looks like the bearings are shot.
Anyone else replace bearings and at what mileage (86,000 for me).
Time to upgrade....(and plus with that many miles....might as well replace the front brakes)
If you think about it, 86K miles is a LOT of revalutions for a wheel-bearing to endure. Calculate the circomfrence of the tire and divide that into 86,000 miles. (that will tell you how many revalutions that bearing has endured.)
Those wheel-bearings have given you many miles of service and dont owe you anything.
Well at least it should be easy to schedule a service appointment. :-) I've had issues in the past scheduling service on my Subaru. "Our service dept is only open from 9 to 5 Oh that day that you wanted and could manage to take off of work? Our Subaru/Mazda dept is taking off that day. If you have a Mercury or Lincoln product that needs servicing however that dept is open" That may be a good sign that says that most Subarus don't need a lot of service but I just find it annoying.
Many Toyota dealerships around here hold schedules from fairly early morning until midnight five or six days a week.
At the time, the mechanic told me he could not fix the problem and recommended that I take it to a dealer for repairs.
So that's just what I did. Only now the dealer is telling me something else entirely.
The dealer, Marten's VW in Bethesda, Md., said they could not find evidence of the wiring harness problem diagnosed by the previous mechanic (for which I breathed a sigh of relief, as the cost was estimated at more than $3,000).
After looking at my car, they toled me that the problem was minor and that only the main speed sensor needed to be replaced. They said it would cost $250.
When they called me, I was skeptical. I told them that the previous mechanic had already tried to replace the speed sensor and it did not fix the problem. But they stuck to their guns, saying a speed sensor replacement would most certainly fix the problem.
As you can imagine, I was less than surprised when I received a phone call the next day stating that the speed sensor was not the issue and that they had, in fact, found a "much more serious" problem.
Now, I'm told there is a "wobbly differential" in my transmission (whatever that means), which is affecting a different speed sensor within the transmission itself. They say they need to drop the trany and replace the sensor. Total cost: $4,500.
Has anyone had a problem like this? I bought an extended warranty through Fidelity, which may or may not cover the problem. The company claims it has to send an adjuster out to inspect the car (probably so they can try and find something wrong with it that would void the warranty).
I bought the car for $16,000 in May of 2002. Seeing as I still owe $8,000 on the loan, it won’t do me much good to pay $4,000 to get it fixed then turnaround and sell it for a possible $8,000, at best.
If anyone has any ideas, I’m willing to try anything. I already tried VW USA and the lemon lawyers. Have I missed anything? Anything at all?
For those who didn't see my previous post, my car is a 99 Jetta VR6 with 55,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 39,000 miles and have driven it just 16,000 miles in two-and-a-half years of secondhand ownership with appropriate service checks perfoirmed. This is just one of a multitude of problems I've had, including:
*check engine light coming on repeatedly;
*radio power issues;
*windows coming off the tracks;
*O2 sensor issues;
*brake light problems;
*computer failures;
*customer service issues, including one case where a VW dealer told me I needed a new "fan control unit" to fix my AC when apparently only the Freon needed to be recharged (a difference of $300);
*Not to mention issues with the VW body shop with regards to paint jobs;
*and being the victim of three different hit-and-run accidents—all of which occurred in one year and all of which occurred while my car was parked and I was inside—at work, trying to make enough money to pay for the repairs!!!!!!!
Should I sell the car to Carmax for the pathetic price of $3,000 and walk away $5,000 in the hole and without enough money in the bank to pay for a new car? Or, should I stick it out and see what happens with the warranty people (I’m not holding my breath)?
I hope this works out for you and good luck.
For the "linkage" type, there is a "kit" that costs about $20 that replenishes all of the plastic bushings of the shift linkage... It makes a HUGE difference in the shifter feel.
At this point, I have had the car looked at by a VW dealership. They changed some of the fluid (as needed for checking the fluid level) and determined that the fluid level was good, and no codes are showing up on their diagnostic computer. So, they are suggesting that I have the transmission serviced ($300) to see if that will fix the problem, otherwise I'm looking at $3100 for a new transmission. But if the transmission is bad, I prefer to trade or sell the car rather than pay the money for the new tranny, so my question is, is it worth a $300 gamble to have the tranmission serviced? Can a simple servicing (replacing filter and fluid) fix a problem like my car is having? Help!
PS – If you see a full loaded white 2001 Passat sitting on a Toyota lot be warned.
An OHMmeter can quickly isolate any "problem" glowplug without even removing them from the engine.
You would be wasting your money by just replacing all 4 of them without testing them first. A glowplug is simply an electric heater. It either works or not. A glowplug is NOT like a sparkplug which actually affects the performance of the engine.
More precise current measurements can be taken but one should have experience working with an ammmeter before attempting it.
Also keep in mind that the glowplug wiring harness is often the problem (not the glowplugs themselves.)
So recently, after it rains, I find an inch high puddle of water on the driver's side. The water somehow finds its way to the engine hood release lever.
Has anyone had this problem? If you have, where's the source of the leak and what did you do to fix it?
Give me info on how I can join in on the class- action suit initiated in the Miami-Dade Circuit court.
J V Cowan, Houston, TX
What's the most you'll get from it? A new front spoiler ($100) plus install ($100)?
There is a more important problem....the low riding oil pan. A front spoiler is pennies compared to a busted oil pan. Some of us are lucky (including myself)..I lost my lower engine cover to some potholes....I gotta get the skidplate before my luck runs out and crack the oil pan.
Does anyone know how? I have the monsoon sound system if that makes a difference.
to work with the iPod. Make sure you get the one for 2002+ VW's (with the CAN-BUS controls)
Anyway, I have the Monsoon system with the CD and Cassette. It is a GLS 1.8T - do you know if it is pre-wired?
I was looking for the item you requested, and they had the v.5, but they also had a v.3. In the description of the v.3 they made it sound like there was a definite difference between the two. Therefore, I think I should be certain if it is pre-wired or not. Do you know where to get the information to tell if it is pre-wired or not? Also, what is the CAN-BUS control - I couldn't find that anywhere.
Thanks for your help.