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But, this will not be the norm for folks that do not have this service record with their dealership. The dealership and Nissan see you as a "very good" / "returning customer", and want to keep it that way. Someone who doesn't even have their dealership change their oil and/or only comes in for warranty work would be hard pressed to get the same outcome.
Now if you buy a bunch of cars from that dealership you have leverage as well - regardless of your service history.
It all comes down to the $$$ signs..
I also have a broken drive seat. I just got it repair @ a welding shop. it took me about an hrs to take the seat apart.(4srew) and disconnect 4 wire to seat). cost for welding $40.00. putted back together the airbag light came on i just have to disconnect the battery for about an hrs to reset. if anyone need info to welder shot me an [email protected] [email protected] i am in maryland
Since some of you guys here are new owners I thought I'd save you a trip to the dealer once you start modifing your armada's. I'm not sure what set's it off (other than pulling things apart) but at some point you will likely end up with a flashing airbag sensor light. Here is how to reset it yourself.
1. Turn the key from off to on.
2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)
4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
What state are you in?
I finally had to give up and trade my Murano in - leaving Nissan behind for good. I too had 2 broken motor mounts, and a leaky oil cooler. The worst however was the transmission started 'slipping out of gear' It was a switch issue, because if I turned the car off and then on, everything was normal again - for an indeterminate, random amount of time. There is a thread for this issue as well. Minimum repair $2K - maximum new tranny at about $5K. I got $9500 in the trade. I hope that you all do not experience that problem. NITE NITE NISSAN!!
Could you kindly please advise me how to remove driver's seat from Murano 2006 model? I need to inspect sliding mechanism which seams to be faulty :-( It looks like one side is “locked” because seat is not moving ahead or back (it is rather trying to rotate around faulty side).
Have you managed to fix the nylon gear that drives the right fore/aft track on driver's power seat in MURANO? I have same problem now :-(
What would be your adice? Where can I get these gear?
My wife and I agreed to an intermediate seat position and used a socket on a ratchet to turn the drive screws to position the seat in a comfortable position. As I recall, the plastic shield that goes across the front of the seat and wraps around the left side justs snaps loose. You don't have to take the left side switches loose. Once I had the seat where I wanted it, I unhooked the harness to the motor that drives the fore/aft screw, so it wouldn't try to move. An of course disable the function that tries to back the seat up for easy exit.
How is it possible for NHTSA to find that this is not a safety issue when the driver of the car is in a seat that is no longer attached to the car due to a design/manufacturing flaw- shifting with every turn or bump. I could not pass inspection with the seat in its current condition- so the state says it is a safety issue- how does NHTSA not see this as an issue? What are they waiting for? someone to lose their life or become permanently disabled? I paid the money the dealer demanded to repair the bracket and hopefully keep my seat attached- the idea of my own ejection seat at the time of an accident is not one I want to try out. Nissan get your act together and do the right thing by all of us who purchased your product- you have a problem- now own up to it.
I rate this a 3 out of 5 sodas (if you have mechanical skills, go for it!)
What you need:
-14mm socket, ratchet, and short extension
-12mm combination wrench
-10mm combination wrench
-Regular flathead screwdriver, #2 phillips, and a small electronics flathead
-Pair of needle nose pliers & vice grips
-MIG welder (or someone who welds)
-1" x 1" x 1/8" piece of angle iron (bare steel, ~ 1.5" long)
-Grinder, file, wire wheel
-carb cleaner & shop towels
-Couple hours of your time
-Move the seat all the way forward, and go open the DSR door. Use the regular flathead screwdriver to pop the two covers off the seat rails. Underneath, there is a bolt under each cover. With the 14mm socket, ratchet, and short extension (say 1" long), remove each bolt from the floorboard (they come out surprisingly easy)
-Go to the DSF door, and move the seat all the way back. Remove covers and bolts as above. While you are here, pop the hood.
-Go under the hood, and with the 10mm combination wrench, disconnect the negative (-) then the hot (+) wires to the battery. Go back the DSF compartment
-Now with the DSF seat completely unbolted and the power disconnected, tilt the seat backwards. You will see three connectors visible on the front bottom rail: 2 white connectors going into a big plug, and a yellow connector more on the PS of the seat. Disconnect these three plugs by pushing down on the small pill (kinda like a pez tab) in the middle of the plug, and using the small electronics screwdriver to carefully pry the plug apart. These plugs come apart much easier than most connectors I have run across in cars, so don't pry super hard - you don't have the button down far enough. Once the plugs are disconnected, unhook the looms from the seat, and remove seat from the car - WARNING - the seat is deceptively heavy!
-Drag the seat into a garage area with a large bench to work with (trust me, you will need it). Start disconnecting all the plugs under the seat, and use the needlenose pliers to push the acorn locks out of the holes (you will need to disconnect them all).
-Now, remove all the plastic skirts, including the one with 2 phillips bolts on the DS, the switch panel on the DS, the round cover with a phillips on the PS, and the front panel.
-Next, push the two acorn plugs out of the loom that goes under the back of the bottom cushion (you will be fishing these out, and the loom on the outside of the bracket (with the yellow air bag loom). At the same time, pop up all the plastic channels that holds the seat cover on, so the bottom seat cover is loose (keep the front connected, but undo the sides & rear)
-On the sides where the back and bottom of the seat meet, there are two 14mm bolts (4 total). Unbolt these, and feed the two looms from the bottom out to clear the back. You will also have another plug to disconnect for the heated seats (if equipped). Now, the back and bottom are free from each other.
-With your hand, feel up under the foam pad in the bottom, and you will find 4 studs with 12 mm nuts. These hold the seat bracket to the bottom. Remove these 4 nuts using a combination wrench. Now, the seat bracket mechanism is free, and there is no flammable foam nearby.
-If you look at the DSR stud, the bracket holding it on is wicked thin and flimsey (I think that the metal was 1/8" thick, and there are 2 small pieces holding it together. With a flat file, clean up the break, and bevel the edges. You may have to use the vice grips to bend the end of the bracket (one tab was bent on mine). Once it is ground and lines up, clean with carb cleaner.
-If you are not comfortable welding, bring this to your local welder. This is literally a 15 minute job, but he will probably charge you a minimum (like an hour). He should be less than $100 regardless. Or, read below & DIY:
-Weld the two tabs back together on the bracket (look at it, and it is pretty straight forward what it looked like at one point in time). On my Miller 175, I used #3 & 50% feedrate (use the recommended power and feed for 1/8"). This metal melted very well, and made a good solid connection. But I didn't want to do this again, so I cut a 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle steel down to 1.5" long, and cut a notch in it. Then, I plated over the two tabs, filling over the factory hole that took away all the meat of the connection to begin with. I welded the outside edges, and flipped it over & welded inside the factory hole to give it a LOT of weld area. If needed, you may need to clearance the angle a little.
-Once cool, put it all back together, reconnect the seat, bolt it in, reconnect the battery, and enjoy the $1,000 you just saved. Even if you bought a welder, it will still cost you less, and you would own a welder when it was all said & done.
Took me a few hours today, but I was farting around (hey, it IS Sunday), ate some lunch, went to town, did some stuff at the farm, watched a little of the little league world series, and really didn't work very hard at it. If you actually got into it pretty fast and dedicated, I would say 1.5-2 hours would be reasonable.
Did you take any pics? The whole post would make a good CarSpace Guide.
No, no pictures, but it was pretty straight forward. Only thing that was a little fuzzy above is describing the bracket & the angle I welded on.
There are around 15 connections that have to be disconnected, there are 8 bolts, four Phillips screws, 4 nuts, and really that is it.
I could probably draw it in CAD or GIMP faster than it would be to take the seat back out and take pics.
And that bracket is pretty flimsy - Nissan must have used those 95 lb Japanese ladies as their ideal driver, because I was able to bend it into alignment with vice grips. Just stamped steel, with a couple stamped ribs in it. In fact, if you think of a capital "A", and fold that A at the horizontal, so that the legs of the A is a flat base and the remaining chevron shape is vertical, then take the top of the A (the point, and bend that flat, that is about the shape of the bracket. and the two smaller A legs (the vertical ones in that bent shape) are what snap - one was around 3/8" wide; the other maybe 3/4". So, you have ~ 0.14 inches2 supporting that corner of the seat, and it is supporting it with an off-centered load (not inline), so the actual load carrying capacity of that vertical is a much smaller value even more. Say the steel is 36ksi yield strength, so inline that would hold 5,000 lbs. I am sure that the engineer figured that is plenty. But, since it is offset, it is probably more like a few hundred, as the seat is sat on, the vertical force is being transmitted into that bracket as a moment arm (the tab is about 1" long & the offset is about 1", so it has a 45 degree load offset (drops it down say 3500 lbs), and it now in a bending mode. The tab isn't well supported, so it fatigues back & forth as the driver sits and wiggles in the seat (like a pop top being opened and closed) until the tab cracks. Probably the thin one first; then with the decreased area on the wider tab, it eventually yields as well.
If the engineers wanted to, a new bracket that was stamped in a supportive shape could be made for probably around $1 more than what is there. But, why do it, when they can get $1,000 a pop out of customers coming back. That is the sort of stuff that irks me about most automotive engineering (think the corvair - $100 for a beefier sway bar and the thing wouldn't pick the front wheels up accelerating up a hill, losing all control. GM didn't feel that was worthwhile, and it took Ralph Nader bringing a national outcry over it for GM to do a damn thing about it).
again thank you ....
I now have another issue with the seat there seems to be maybe a coin in the track causing it to go only part way back when I get to that spot it turns side way I dont push in fear I may strip the new gear . I looked at the track and cant figure out how a coin could get in there ? or is this something other than something in the track that I am experiencing ? ANY IDEALS OUT THERE or am I just going have to remove the seat altogether ?
Thanks a lot,
1 -raise seat
2 -remove 3 screws covering a plate in front of track
3- when open you'll see a nut remove this take note of how gear the comes off along with where the washer are located
4 line up new gear if hard to pushed on you can either sandpaper the rounded entry side
by rolling sand paper up to fit and smooth out just a bit ( not too much ) I did this and still was tight so I used a deep well socket and tap it in the rest of the way take note of the oval side and make sure its line up with the stud before tapping in
5 reverse order to close it up its fairly simple I think
Good Luck and let me know how you make out
Do what I did - trade the beast in for a Lexus
It was funny when I drove up at the local dealership in the Murano to look at the ALTIMA and the salesman immediately started telling me about the CVT on the Altima.
Its also making a strange noise and is somehow twisting to the right, because only the left part is sliding now. All other power seat features are working fine.
Took it to the dealer and they asked $1200 to fix it ... the dealer diagnosed it with the following sentence:
Sliding motors are both not working and the power seat frame needs to be replaced.
I'm calling Nissan tomorrow to see if they are willing to cover this issue, since it looks like a design flaw. I also submitted the problem to NHTSA.
I just want to be sure in case Nissan will not pay to fix this problem, that the part available here, is the one which is destroyed:
I am wiling to buy it and do the repair myself, so I would greatly appreciate if the ones with the same problem have been able to fix it with the Power Seat Gear mentioned above.
this is whats wrong with yours the gear is strip at a point .Now why is still turning at that point I'm not sure I can guess it maybe the rail has a cracked that cause it to stop ? because I have not had an problem with a broken seat as others had. I posted this issue on this site and have receive no replies yet .
PS. I have a 03 Mo with 114000 miles on it and over all I have been pleased with it other than this issue which just happen 2/3 months ago I had no problems with it.
I discovered that the gear is damaged so I need to order it and change it, but I wanted to ask how did you took out the nut that is in front of the gear?
BTW ... I was wandering why the hell are they using a plastic gear there and not a metal one?
I have managed to take out the gear, but it seems that those 2 pins from the magnetic collar are broken ... the ones between the collar and the gear. So I have ordered the gear with the neck and collar ... but now I got a problem with the collar itself ... if I'm using the new one (which is not magnetic) they are saying on their website that the automatic preset seat feature will not work anymore. What does that mean? That I can't memorize those 2 positions of the seat for both me and my wife?
On the other hand ... can I use the old magnetic collar without those 2 small pins that are connecting it with the gear?
NHTSA Action Number: N/A NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
Make: NISSAN Model: MURANO
Manufacturer : NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Year : 2005
Date Investigation Opened : November 18, 2008
Date Investigation Closed : July 2, 2009
THIS INVESTIGATION CONCERNS STRUCTURAL FAILURE OF THE ANCHOR/BRACKET ON THE LEFT REAR SIDE OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT. THE CONCERN IS THAT SUCH FAILURES MAY ALTER THE DRIVER'S SEATED POSITION SO AS TO REDUCE EFFECTIVENESS OF THE OCCUPANT PROTECTION SYSTEM OR POTENTIALLY COMPROMISE VEHICLE CONTROL. FAILURE OF THE SUBJECT ANCHOR BRACKET RESULTS FROM METAL FATIGUE AND CAUSES REARWARD TILTING OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT. THESE FAILURES USUALLY OCCUR DURING DRIVER INGRESS BUT MAY ALSO OCCUR WHILE THE VEHICLE IS BEING OPERATED. THE SAFETY RELATED CONCERNS DURING ACTUAL VEHICLE USE WERE NOT VALIDATED BY THIS INVESTIGATION. WHILE THE NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS OF THIS PROBLEM IS RELATIVELY HIGH, ONLY THREE VERY MINOR, UNDOCUMENTED INJURIES WERE REPORTED. THE REPORTED INJURIES OCCURRED DURING DRIVER INGRESS, NOT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION. INVESTIGATION DISCLOSED THAT THE APPARENT RISK OF COMPROMISE TO VEHICLE CONTROL HAS NOT BEEN DEMONSTRATED. INVESTIGATION ALSO DISCLOSED THAT THE APPARENT RISK OF COLLAPSE OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT BACK HAS NOT BEEN DEMONSTRATED A SAFETY RELATED DEFECT TREND WAS NOT IDENTIFIED AND THIS INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN CLOSED.
On the base issue, we notice that they have changed the design significantly. The welds on the old model were two half inch or so welds with a space in between. The new one is a sold piece, about three inchs long, welded all the way along. A couple of other portions of the base were beefed up too. Given that they obviously know there was a design flaw (cause they redesigned it!!) it seems like a giant rip off not to have this covered under a recall.
Do you still have the old broken seat base? My base has also broken but not in the same place as is typical. The bearings on the outboard seat track are bad. I would be interested in purchasing the broken base.