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Nissan Murano Power Seat Problem

24

Comments

  • I am in Central Florida.
  • I am responding back to my earlier post regarding my broken driver's seat. I got Nissan to pay for the repair, even though I was well pass warranty. First, I called Nissan North America Customer Service and got a file number. Then I took it to the Dealer and they determined it was a defect. My dealer contacted Customer Service and 48 hours later they agreed to pay for the repairs. My seat is now fixed. Here is the key: Prior to my seat breaking, I took my Murano to my local dealer for all service. I have 75,000 miles on it and have probably spent over $2,000 for routine maintenance, so I have a good track record with them. My dealer went to bat for me and my Nissan Customer Service person said that because I had a good track record with the Dealer they would cover the costs. I hope this information helps someone. Now, if I can get them to pay for my gas gauge needle that just went out. Oh well, I am happy about the seat for now.
  • I'm glad Nissan/your dealership took care of you.

    But, this will not be the norm for folks that do not have this service record with their dealership. The dealership and Nissan see you as a "very good" / "returning customer", and want to keep it that way. Someone who doesn't even have their dealership change their oil and/or only comes in for warranty work would be hard pressed to get the same outcome.
    Now if you buy a bunch of cars from that dealership you have leverage as well - regardless of your service history.

    It all comes down to the $$$ signs..

    Cheers
  • kevin71kevin71 Posts: 4
    Hi all
    I also have a broken drive seat. I just got it repair @ a welding shop. it took me about an hrs to take the seat apart.(4srew) and disconnect 4 wire to seat). cost for welding $40.00. putted back together the airbag light came on i just have to disconnect the battery for about an hrs to reset. if anyone need info to welder shot me an [email protected] [email protected] i am in maryland
  • kevin71kevin71 Posts: 4
    Try This, I got this from ClubArmada.com It worked for me.

    Since some of you guys here are new owners I thought I'd save you a trip to the dealer once you start modifing your armada's. I'm not sure what set's it off (other than pulling things apart) but at some point you will likely end up with a flashing airbag sensor light. Here is how to reset it yourself.

    1. Turn the key from off to on.

    2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.

    3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)

    4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.

    5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.

    6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
  • dejureddejured Posts: 1
    I saw a posting re having the seat welded - so I called a mobile welder in yellow pages and he came out to my house and fixed it an hour for $80 - thanks to prior poster - saved me hundreds!!!!!!
  • hi dejured,

    What state are you in?
  • I've posted before about my broken power seat. Nissan customer service had already declined my request for a goodwill fix about 4 months ago. My '05 Murano was recently diagnosed with 2 broken engine mounts and a leaking power steering hose. Paid $511 to replace the hose but steaming that engine mounts were broken. Wrote a letter to Nissan USA describing all my problems with the car and requesting assistance for the engine mounts and power seat. Nissan contacted me and worked with the dealer to get my seat fixed - but not engine mounts. Still miffed about the mounts - 70K miles but car is 3.5 years old. The more expensive of the fixes was the seat and more of a safety issue - so that was repaired as goodwill by dealer.
  • shortguyshortguy Posts: 8
    Good for you!

    I finally had to give up and trade my Murano in - leaving Nissan behind for good. I too had 2 broken motor mounts, and a leaky oil cooler. The worst however was the transmission started 'slipping out of gear' It was a switch issue, because if I turned the car off and then on, everything was normal again - for an indeterminate, random amount of time. There is a thread for this issue as well. Minimum repair $2K - maximum new tranny at about $5K. I got $9500 in the trade. I hope that you all do not experience that problem. NITE NITE NISSAN!!
  • Update - I just had an independent mechanic look at my Murano. The engine mounts the dealership service mechanic said were broken are completely intact. No repairs needed! Beware of dealership service shops! I will never get my car services at a dealer again!
  • shortguyshortguy Posts: 8
    It was an honest independent tech that advised me of the broken mounts. Noen the less - watch out for that transmission issue....
  • piotr530piotr530 Posts: 4
    Dear All,
    Could you kindly please advise me how to remove driver's seat from Murano 2006 model? I need to inspect sliding mechanism which seams to be faulty :-( It looks like one side is “locked” because seat is not moving ahead or back (it is rather trying to rotate around faulty side).
  • piotr530piotr530 Posts: 4
    Dear Brent,
    Have you managed to fix the nylon gear that drives the right fore/aft track on driver's power seat in MURANO? I have same problem now :-(
    What would be your adice? Where can I get these gear?
    Best Regards
  • brentbbrentb Posts: 8
    I never got it fixed, as could not find a replacement gear. I have considered robbing the gear from the passenger side, though.

    My wife and I agreed to an intermediate seat position and used a socket on a ratchet to turn the drive screws to position the seat in a comfortable position. As I recall, the plastic shield that goes across the front of the seat and wraps around the left side justs snaps loose. You don't have to take the left side switches loose. Once I had the seat where I wanted it, I unhooked the harness to the motor that drives the fore/aft screw, so it wouldn't try to move. An of course disable the function that tries to back the seat up for easy exit.
  • piotr530piotr530 Posts: 4
    Thanks & Best Regards
  • Nissan Murano 2005- seat anchor bracket broken. Dealer charged arm and leg to repair- said it was not covered. One would reasonably assume that the driver's seat would remain attached to the vehicle for the life of the vehicle- right?!
    How is it possible for NHTSA to find that this is not a safety issue when the driver of the car is in a seat that is no longer attached to the car due to a design/manufacturing flaw- shifting with every turn or bump. I could not pass inspection with the seat in its current condition- so the state says it is a safety issue- how does NHTSA not see this as an issue? What are they waiting for? someone to lose their life or become permanently disabled? I paid the money the dealer demanded to repair the bracket and hopefully keep my seat attached- the idea of my own ejection seat at the time of an accident is not one I want to try out. Nissan get your act together and do the right thing by all of us who purchased your product- you have a problem- now own up to it.
  • After my wife's Murano got the dreaded "seat lean", where the DSR corner of the seat was flopping around, I decided to do something about it today. I will be damned if I give another nickel to Klein Nissan in Maplewood MN (thieves I tell you!), I used the nice day to DIY fix my seat.

    I rate this a 3 out of 5 sodas (if you have mechanical skills, go for it!)
    What you need:

    -14mm socket, ratchet, and short extension
    -12mm combination wrench
    -10mm combination wrench
    -Regular flathead screwdriver, #2 phillips, and a small electronics flathead
    -Pair of needle nose pliers & vice grips
    -MIG welder (or someone who welds)
    -1" x 1" x 1/8" piece of angle iron (bare steel, ~ 1.5" long)
    -Grinder, file, wire wheel
    -carb cleaner & shop towels
    -Couple hours of your time

    Startup:

    -Move the seat all the way forward, and go open the DSR door. Use the regular flathead screwdriver to pop the two covers off the seat rails. Underneath, there is a bolt under each cover. With the 14mm socket, ratchet, and short extension (say 1" long), remove each bolt from the floorboard (they come out surprisingly easy)

    -Go to the DSF door, and move the seat all the way back. Remove covers and bolts as above. While you are here, pop the hood.

    -Go under the hood, and with the 10mm combination wrench, disconnect the negative (-) then the hot (+) wires to the battery. Go back the DSF compartment

    -Now with the DSF seat completely unbolted and the power disconnected, tilt the seat backwards. You will see three connectors visible on the front bottom rail: 2 white connectors going into a big plug, and a yellow connector more on the PS of the seat. Disconnect these three plugs by pushing down on the small pill (kinda like a pez tab) in the middle of the plug, and using the small electronics screwdriver to carefully pry the plug apart. These plugs come apart much easier than most connectors I have run across in cars, so don't pry super hard - you don't have the button down far enough. Once the plugs are disconnected, unhook the looms from the seat, and remove seat from the car - WARNING - the seat is deceptively heavy!

    -Drag the seat into a garage area with a large bench to work with (trust me, you will need it). Start disconnecting all the plugs under the seat, and use the needlenose pliers to push the acorn locks out of the holes (you will need to disconnect them all).

    -Now, remove all the plastic skirts, including the one with 2 phillips bolts on the DS, the switch panel on the DS, the round cover with a phillips on the PS, and the front panel.

    -Next, push the two acorn plugs out of the loom that goes under the back of the bottom cushion (you will be fishing these out, and the loom on the outside of the bracket (with the yellow air bag loom). At the same time, pop up all the plastic channels that holds the seat cover on, so the bottom seat cover is loose (keep the front connected, but undo the sides & rear)

    -On the sides where the back and bottom of the seat meet, there are two 14mm bolts (4 total). Unbolt these, and feed the two looms from the bottom out to clear the back. You will also have another plug to disconnect for the heated seats (if equipped). Now, the back and bottom are free from each other.

    -With your hand, feel up under the foam pad in the bottom, and you will find 4 studs with 12 mm nuts. These hold the seat bracket to the bottom. Remove these 4 nuts using a combination wrench. Now, the seat bracket mechanism is free, and there is no flammable foam nearby.

    -If you look at the DSR stud, the bracket holding it on is wicked thin and flimsey (I think that the metal was 1/8" thick, and there are 2 small pieces holding it together. With a flat file, clean up the break, and bevel the edges. You may have to use the vice grips to bend the end of the bracket (one tab was bent on mine). Once it is ground and lines up, clean with carb cleaner.

    -If you are not comfortable welding, bring this to your local welder. This is literally a 15 minute job, but he will probably charge you a minimum (like an hour). He should be less than $100 regardless. Or, read below & DIY:

    -Weld the two tabs back together on the bracket (look at it, and it is pretty straight forward what it looked like at one point in time). On my Miller 175, I used #3 & 50% feedrate (use the recommended power and feed for 1/8"). This metal melted very well, and made a good solid connection. But I didn't want to do this again, so I cut a 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle steel down to 1.5" long, and cut a notch in it. Then, I plated over the two tabs, filling over the factory hole that took away all the meat of the connection to begin with. I welded the outside edges, and flipped it over & welded inside the factory hole to give it a LOT of weld area. If needed, you may need to clearance the angle a little.

    -Once cool, put it all back together, reconnect the seat, bolt it in, reconnect the battery, and enjoy the $1,000 you just saved. Even if you bought a welder, it will still cost you less, and you would own a welder when it was all said & done.

    Took me a few hours today, but I was farting around (hey, it IS Sunday), ate some lunch, went to town, did some stuff at the farm, watched a little of the little league world series, and really didn't work very hard at it. If you actually got into it pretty fast and dedicated, I would say 1.5-2 hours would be reasonable.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    That's great!

    Did you take any pics? The whole post would make a good CarSpace Guide.
  • Hi Steve,

    No, no pictures, but it was pretty straight forward. Only thing that was a little fuzzy above is describing the bracket & the angle I welded on.

    There are around 15 connections that have to be disconnected, there are 8 bolts, four Phillips screws, 4 nuts, and really that is it.

    I could probably draw it in CAD or GIMP faster than it would be to take the seat back out and take pics.

    And that bracket is pretty flimsy - Nissan must have used those 95 lb Japanese ladies as their ideal driver, because I was able to bend it into alignment with vice grips. Just stamped steel, with a couple stamped ribs in it. In fact, if you think of a capital "A", and fold that A at the horizontal, so that the legs of the A is a flat base and the remaining chevron shape is vertical, then take the top of the A (the point, and bend that flat, that is about the shape of the bracket. and the two smaller A legs (the vertical ones in that bent shape) are what snap - one was around 3/8" wide; the other maybe 3/4". So, you have ~ 0.14 inches2 supporting that corner of the seat, and it is supporting it with an off-centered load (not inline), so the actual load carrying capacity of that vertical is a much smaller value even more. Say the steel is 36ksi yield strength, so inline that would hold 5,000 lbs. I am sure that the engineer figured that is plenty. But, since it is offset, it is probably more like a few hundred, as the seat is sat on, the vertical force is being transmitted into that bracket as a moment arm (the tab is about 1" long & the offset is about 1", so it has a 45 degree load offset (drops it down say 3500 lbs), and it now in a bending mode. The tab isn't well supported, so it fatigues back & forth as the driver sits and wiggles in the seat (like a pop top being opened and closed) until the tab cracks. Probably the thin one first; then with the decreased area on the wider tab, it eventually yields as well.

    If the engineers wanted to, a new bracket that was stamped in a supportive shape could be made for probably around $1 more than what is there. But, why do it, when they can get $1,000 a pop out of customers coming back. That is the sort of stuff that irks me about most automotive engineering (think the corvair - $100 for a beefier sway bar and the thing wouldn't pick the front wheels up accelerating up a hill, losing all control. GM didn't feel that was worthwhile, and it took Ralph Nader bringing a national outcry over it for GM to do a damn thing about it).
  • That's great news you were reimbursed...Nissan just denied my request for them to cover the charges on repairing my seat which was also broken in the exact same way as you describe. Any way you could share with all of us what you actually wrote so we get Nissan to respond to all in the same manner? By Nissan reimbursing you for the cost of your repair, they are admitting there is a defect in this part which they are liable for.
  • Has any found out where to get the gear for the power seat on the driver side yet ?and has any one switch with the passenger side with no problems ?
  • can you another gear I would gladly paid you I am having hard time trying to find one in the junk yards
  • my wife has 2005 Murano and I had the same issue. found a replacement gear at http://www.odometergears.com/infiniti.html only $64.00 with shipping, only took me 15 minutes to install and Nissan wanted $800 for a new seat. I had to email odometergears a picture of the gear and they advised the infiniti gear would fit and it did! so it has been two weeks since I replaced it and no issues....Hope this helps a few of you out there.
  • Great and thank you a bunch ...this was getting harder to find in a junkyard and I been waiting for a machine shop to tell what it would cost to make one . I am not paying 700 for this part , which like you said it only took 15 mins to do ... I do have pictures of it and I just send it off to the email address you gave me ---
    again thank you ....
  • thanks beresde .... I got the gear and it works fine

    I now have another issue with the seat there seems to be maybe a coin in the track causing it to go only part way back when I get to that spot it turns side way I dont push in fear I may strip the new gear . I looked at the track and cant figure out how a coin could get in there ? or is this something other than something in the track that I am experiencing ? ANY IDEALS OUT THERE or am I just going have to remove the seat altogether ?
  • Hi steel. I picked up that same gear and for the life of me I can't figure out where it goes. Would you help a hapless and seatless Murano owner out by explaining the installation of that gear?

    Thanks a lot,
    featon
  • to be sure driver right side as you sit in the seat is what I had

    1 -raise seat

    2 -remove 3 screws covering a plate in front of track

    3- when open you'll see a nut remove this take note of how gear the comes off along with where the washer are located

    4 line up new gear if hard to pushed on you can either sandpaper the rounded entry side
    by rolling sand paper up to fit and smooth out just a bit ( not too much ) I did this and still was tight so I used a deep well socket and tap it in the rest of the way take note of the oval side and make sure its line up with the stud before tapping in

    5 reverse order to close it up its fairly simple I think

    Good Luck and let me know how you make out
  • Bingo! Following your steps made installing the gear a breeze. I greatly appreciate you taking the time to help me. Thank you.

    featon
  • The same thing happend to me. I have an 07 murano, my drivers side seat broke. I went to the dealer, they want $746.00 . I ended up welding it, but yesterday it broke again. If i would have know this problem with the driver's seat, i would have bought the ford edge!
  • svofan2svofan2 Posts: 442
    ..why wasn't this problem covered under the 3 year/3600 warranty?....your MO is only an 07
  • As you all know, we have been having issues with the driver's side power seat breaking under normal use. Some of us have paid almost $1,000.00, in getting this fix. I feel that as consumer we should not have to pay for a design flaw! Many have complained to the (BBB) The Better Business Burial, and to the National High and Safty Administration but these two agencies have denied our safty concerns, on the Nissan Murano. I urge you to file small claim suit in your local court house. Against Nissan North America Inc.
  • Nissan 'No Customer Service' doesn't care. They will only care when the word gets out that their well designed cars don't hold up and they don't stand behind them...

    Do what I did - trade the beast in for a Lexus
  • What do I accomplish by filing a claim against Nissan North America in the local small claims court? My last experience with SCC took two years, several hours of my time as well as a day of the hearing. I would think that Nissan would simply delay the hearing as long as possible. They may be willing to pay me the $650 rather than sending a representative to the hearing. It is more tempting just to forget about it and ever buying another Nissan.
    It was funny when I drove up at the local dealership in the Murano to look at the ALTIMA and the salesman immediately started telling me about the CVT on the Altima.
  • Thanks a bunch for these instructions. my seat is out and i am of to a friends house in the morning to weld it.
  • I just bought my Murano 2 weeks ago. It has 38k miles, so is out of warranty. I'm very disappointed with the driver's seat problem like a lot of people is having here. My seat is not sliding forward anymore. At least not on the right side!
    Its also making a strange noise and is somehow twisting to the right, because only the left part is sliding now. All other power seat features are working fine.
    Took it to the dealer and they asked $1200 to fix it ... the dealer diagnosed it with the following sentence:
    Sliding motors are both not working and the power seat frame needs to be replaced.
    I'm calling Nissan tomorrow to see if they are willing to cover this issue, since it looks like a design flaw. I also submitted the problem to NHTSA.

    I just want to be sure in case Nissan will not pay to fix this problem, that the part available here, is the one which is destroyed:
    http://www.odometergears.com/infiniti.html

    I am wiling to buy it and do the repair myself, so I would greatly appreciate if the ones with the same problem have been able to fix it with the Power Seat Gear mentioned above.
  • I replace mine with the gear purchased from the site you show, in my case it works for about 80 % of the travel backwards and 100% forward .when I reached a certain point going back it wants to turn I back off because I dont want to strip the new gear.
    this is whats wrong with yours the gear is strip at a point .Now why is still turning at that point I'm not sure I can guess it maybe the rail has a cracked that cause it to stop ? because I have not had an problem with a broken seat as others had. I posted this issue on this site and have receive no replies yet .
    PS. I have a 03 Mo with 114000 miles on it and over all I have been pleased with it other than this issue which just happen 2/3 months ago I had no problems with it.
  • Which gear did you used, the one with Neck and Collar or the one without them?
  • the one with the neck ">
  • Hi steelflatroll ... I started to investigate myself, because Nissan refused to fix the problem for free, even if I was out of warranty with 2000 miles only.
    I discovered that the gear is damaged so I need to order it and change it, but I wanted to ask how did you took out the nut that is in front of the gear?

    BTW ... I was wandering why the hell are they using a plastic gear there and not a metal one?
  • I use a deep well socket then check out my instructions #84 in this forum to remove and replace
  • I followed the instructions from here:
    http://www.odometergears.com/subpages/Infiniti_Nissan_Seat_Gear_How_To.html

    I have managed to take out the gear, but it seems that those 2 pins from the magnetic collar are broken ... the ones between the collar and the gear. So I have ordered the gear with the neck and collar ... but now I got a problem with the collar itself ... if I'm using the new one (which is not magnetic) they are saying on their website that the automatic preset seat feature will not work anymore. What does that mean? That I can't memorize those 2 positions of the seat for both me and my wife?
    On the other hand ... can I use the old magnetic collar without those 2 small pins that are connecting it with the gear?
  • I have an 03 MO and I didnt have any pins that they are talking about ?? at least I didnt see any ? I think they are talking about the auto seat slide when you get in and out , ( where the seat moves back when getting out but I'm not sure ) ..since I'm the only one who drives my Mo I havent even check out the preset buttons which I'll have to do to see what happens
  • Apologies if this has been posted before. My wife's Murano exhibited the broken (leaning) drivers seat last night, so I'm new to this discussion.

    NHTSA Action Number: N/A NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
    PE08065 N/A
    Make: NISSAN Model: MURANO
    Manufacturer : NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
    Year : 2005
    Component :
    SEATS

    Date Investigation Opened : November 18, 2008
    Date Investigation Closed : July 2, 2009
    Summary:
    THIS INVESTIGATION CONCERNS STRUCTURAL FAILURE OF THE ANCHOR/BRACKET ON THE LEFT REAR SIDE OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT. THE CONCERN IS THAT SUCH FAILURES MAY ALTER THE DRIVER'S SEATED POSITION SO AS TO REDUCE EFFECTIVENESS OF THE OCCUPANT PROTECTION SYSTEM OR POTENTIALLY COMPROMISE VEHICLE CONTROL. FAILURE OF THE SUBJECT ANCHOR BRACKET RESULTS FROM METAL FATIGUE AND CAUSES REARWARD TILTING OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT. THESE FAILURES USUALLY OCCUR DURING DRIVER INGRESS BUT MAY ALSO OCCUR WHILE THE VEHICLE IS BEING OPERATED. THE SAFETY RELATED CONCERNS DURING ACTUAL VEHICLE USE WERE NOT VALIDATED BY THIS INVESTIGATION. WHILE THE NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS OF THIS PROBLEM IS RELATIVELY HIGH, ONLY THREE VERY MINOR, UNDOCUMENTED INJURIES WERE REPORTED. THE REPORTED INJURIES OCCURRED DURING DRIVER INGRESS, NOT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION. INVESTIGATION DISCLOSED THAT THE APPARENT RISK OF COMPROMISE TO VEHICLE CONTROL HAS NOT BEEN DEMONSTRATED. INVESTIGATION ALSO DISCLOSED THAT THE APPARENT RISK OF COLLAPSE OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT BACK HAS NOT BEEN DEMONSTRATED A SAFETY RELATED DEFECT TREND WAS NOT IDENTIFIED AND THIS INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN CLOSED.
  • So are they going to force Nissan to do a recall about it or not?
  • daveshawdaveshaw Posts: 1
    Thanks a lot ! fixed it with a friend in 2.5 hours !!
  • norman31norman31 Posts: 1
    I have a broken seat . Can you tell me how to fix it?
  • FlashMagnuMFlashMagnuM Posts: 9
    edited May 2010
    How about giving us a brief description of your problem? Or starting with the first page, just read what's written in this thread and find out if your seat has the same issues.
  • At 16,000 miles my driver’s power seat was replaced because of the following. Left side stops & right side keeps on moving. Seat bottom cross frame was problem and upon tear down found cross frame had been separated at weld causing excessive flex in rear of seat. So bad driving it was a rocking chair. The entire seat frame w/motor assembly was replaced to correct defect. Well here is the rest of the story! At about 54,000 miles (still under warranty) I stated that the foam was shredding under my seat and this was the start all over again of the seat problem. They said nothing was wrong. At 61,200 miles I stated that the seat was becoming loose and more foam was continually shredding under the seat. The Nissan tech agreed and said there was a problem. Now Nissan wants me to split the $1600 repair with the dealer. Also Nissan said they called me about my problem and asked me to call back which they said I did not so they closed the file in May. I called back again and made them open a new file stating all over again the concerns with safety and my maintenance history. This was on the 16th of June and I was assured someone was calling me back within 24-48 hours. On the 29th I called and said what’s up. Well another call to me said that my phone was no longer working on the 24th. (8 days not 24-48 hours) The person they stated called me had been assigned to another area in May so how could he have called me I asked calmly? Now I am still waiting for another mystery phone call and can only guess what's next. I feel this should be a "Good Will" repair in light of all the issues and paper trail they have. If not I can assure them this will be my last Nissan purchase. Is there an automotive safety dept. in the government who I can talk to if this is not corrected. I understand this is not the first seat issue.
  • chill0520chill0520 Posts: 1
    WOW. I just have to say THANK YOU to themadhatter for posting the instructions on how to take the seat apart to get to the seat base. My 2005 Murano drivers seat suddenly went "pop" last week, and the DSR came loose. I took it to a dealer here, and they said it would be a $900 fix. At the rear of the seat the weld had broken (the same as themadhatters). We decided to get a new base from Nissan (as one of the lift motors was having sporadic issues as well), but install it ourselves. It took my father and I about three hours start to finish, with no major issues, thanks to the instructions posted here!!

    On the base issue, we notice that they have changed the design significantly. The welds on the old model were two half inch or so welds with a space in between. The new one is a sold piece, about three inchs long, welded all the way along. A couple of other portions of the base were beefed up too. Given that they obviously know there was a design flaw (cause they redesigned it!!) it seems like a giant rip off not to have this covered under a recall.
  • tddrapetddrape Posts: 1
    Chill0520 or ???

    Do you still have the old broken seat base? My base has also broken but not in the same place as is typical. The bearings on the outboard seat track are bad. I would be interested in purchasing the broken base.
    Thanks
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