So do I understand this correctly, that 30K miles ago you put a rebuild engine into your truck, and it has been running fine up until most recently........OR.....you have a rebuild engine with 30K miles on it, and you just put it in your truck and can't get it working right?
Black wet and sooty, is too much fuel with maybe not enough spark.
I have a 97 chevy suburban w/5.7 with the same exact condition. Original motor w/180,000 miles with orig trans. Replaced plugs, fuel pressure regulator, crankshaft pos. sensor, checked fuel pressure (which is within specs), Have spark (blue, but seems a little slow, compared to my 94 w/5.7 with orange spark. Checked my ignition timing with a timing light and found it to be incorrect (before and after I replaced the crank pos sensor). I have been dealing with this for over 6 months. I am surprised my starter still works from all the cranking.
Since the ignition timing is computer controlled, I am suspecting the PCM.
Chevy dealership said that they will do a complete diagnosis for $75 and it will go towards the solution, be it computer flashing or whatever.
Otherwise I can get a PCM cheap from the local pull apart, but I'd be taking my chances being that the PCM is to be reprogrammed with your own VIN#.
Just wanted to let you know that you are not alone.
About 2 weeks ago my tahoe started making a whirring noise. At first I thought transmission, but I'm pretty sure that's not it. My mechanic replaced the right wheel hub but that made no difference, the noise is still there. It almost sounds like a tire but I have 4 brand new Michelins with about 4K miles on them so a sudden whirring noise doesn't seem logical. The noise begins to be noticeable around 20 mph and then winds up with speed and winds down as I slow to a stop. The sound is not evident in neutral when I increase the engine rpms only when I'm rolling. Any advise? Thanks - Ernie
About the only suggestion I could make, is have someone ride with you in the back seat with the windows down. Compare the noise by listening out the right window, with that out the left window. If the sound is the same intensity, then I'm guessing it would be from the transmission (in the middle of the car), versus a wheel (clearly on one side of the car).
If it's on the side, then try to pick up whether it's coming from the front, or back.
I have seen several people in this thread with the same issue of no crank. I too can wiggle the wire and it seems to make it start. It odesnt make sense though because I have checked and rechecked connections. The only thing that sounds like a possibilty is the starter solenoid or the park switch. Noone has actually said what fixed this problem though...anyone?? I am going to check the shift lever next time it happens!
I was wondering if you have mud grips. They are known to make a whirring noise. Other than that, one would assume possibly a bearing in a sealed hub or a brake tab if they believe the noise is from a wheel, but not always. If you have vibration when you drive, it could be a fault in a new tire (out of round condition). Another overlooked item is the u-joints on the driveshaft. Roll down your window, put your vehicle in drive, and let it roll freely. See if you can isolate the noise. If the noise starts right off and gets louder as the vehicle freely speeds up, it may be your u-joints. Get under the vehicle and work your driveshaft back and forth. If there is any free play, they need to be replaced. But of course, try to isolate the noise. Hope it helps, Ernie.
Recently installed a starter and a "resistor." Not 100% sure what the deal was with resistor, but those are the only recent changes to vehicle.
Post-starter install it's been fine for him. However, he got a code and had another friend plug in the scanner to find out what it was.
Now, his "tow" light comes on whenever he starts the car and has a starting issue. From what I understand, every time the truck is started (regardless of cold or warm start) it takes a while to start. It does start, but from what he described it was like a slow start.
Is there anything that would cause the "tow" light to come on and also cause the weak start?
Not familiar with the suburbans, but can get whatever info may help...
My 2002 Chevy Tahoe is having intermittent problems with starting. Engine cranks but won't start. Takes multiple attempts to start and when it does fire it does stay running unless I start to lightly feather in gas by depressing the gas pedal (I know this is not recommended.) The engine will run poorly and then idle down below 500 RPM's amost to the point of stalling. In the last 6 months I have replaced fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump, battery. there are no DTC's in the computer. it is a 4.8L V-8.
What is really odd is that the problem has occured on two different situations: 1.) Most recently on a return from an extended vacation (>5 days) the car would not start or stay running at idle 2.) a quick stop at a store for 5 minutes, return to vehicle and it will not start or stay running.
The fuel rail losing pressure sounds likely but the fuel pressure regulator does NOT have gas in the vacuum line and each situation above seems like they are mutually exclusive.
Did you every get a response on what the problem may be? We are having similar problems with our Tahoe same year. Curious as to what the outcome was. Joe
My Suburban's starter is not turning fast enough to start the truck. In fact it acts like the batteries are both drained. The batteries have both been charged, and I hooked up jumper cables to boost the power when trying to start, but it didn't change the symptoms.
My inspection of the cables showed no corrosion at the terminals. My inspection of the starter innards shows grooving in the brushes and copper (aren't they supposed to be smooth?), and from what I understand from past starters, there are supposed to be slots between the copper contacts (at least I think that's what I've seen before), but there isn't on this one. I've never before seen a worn out starter in terms of the copper contacts, so I am wondering if you think this starter looks perfectly functional or if it has run its lifespan. Take a look at the picture, and if you have any questions, leave an answer or email me at "adam @ berkey . biz" (no spaces)
Thanks...
I took it down to Schucks to get tested, but their test doesn't include the friction of the compression of an engine, so I'm wondering though it passed the test on their testing equipment, that the actual use of it trying to compress the cylinders in the truck need more "juice."
I have a 02 Z71Tahoe that will not start. Problem started about a month ago when I went to start the truck, turned the key, no noise! Lights, radio, dash lights all came on, but no action. Came back a hour or so later, it started right up! Truck would not start a few weeks ago, got it towed to my house, soon as the truck was lowered from tow truck, I got in just to check, and it started right up. Drove fine with no problems for a week, then all of a sudden, problem came back again.tried jump starting, but no results. How do I know if its the starter, battery or ECM? Please help!!!
Left the Tahoe with the dealer for 3 days and they had no solution. However, it has not failed to start since. over four weeks ago now. Love you know if you figure your problem out. Then I can check mine.
ok this problem has been eluding me for months now. My 92 Burb will not start without adding starting fluid and then will not idle at less than 1500-2000 RPM. I am getting 12+volts to the injectors I have changed the oil pressure sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, ESC, EEC(computer) O2 sensor, map sensor, Idle air control valve, full tune up and full oil change. The symptoms are; Vehicle will not start without starting fluid, then once started will not idle below 1500-2000, it appears to shut off the injectors. I have talked to several techs that I know and they are all baffled. ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS.
No leaks that I found and I rebuilt heads and reinstalled them so compression is wihtin 2lbs of each other. however if I put fuel in the TBI it will start then if I keep it at above 1500 RPM it runs perfect it is once I try to let it idle the injectors shut off
I had the same problem on my 2003 Z71. Had at dealer several times for problem , but they never fixed problem. Changed battery, ignition switch and checked everything in starting system . I installed new starter not rebuilt and have not had problem in two years. I was having the same problem you are talking about with dead ignition at times with and without dash power when it happened. It was very intermittent . Hope this cures your problem. tdarr
Had a similar prob with my 97 Sub. Same symptoms. Found out my battery was arcing. Made my piggy back positive cables melt to each other. Replaced battery under warranty and replaced both positive cables and made sure cables were tight on my starter and alternator. Problem Solved. Hope this helps.
2007 chevy tahoe won't start. this all started when all the gauges quit working while the tahoe wasa running,shut it off and now it won't start. when turning the key over it just clickes.....everything including lights,radios....etc still works
I have a 02 Tahoe that does not like to start in cold weather. It did this last winter but as spring came around I had no more problems until the cold air came back this winter. It will roll over fine but will not start. And the other day it sounded like it was going to start and it just choked and died. I could smell gas or something. I tried again and it started fine. Anyways when it warms up outside its starts like new. No problems when its running at all. Just doesnt want to start when its really cold outside. Need some help please because I dont have the money to spend at a shop if they dont find the correct problem. Thanks.
Not sure how your expectations are that someone on the internet, who can neither see, hear, or drive your vehicle.....could do better diagnosis than a local technician. This is the type of reported symptom, that could be caused by so many different things.
You could end up throwing a lot of unnecessary parts into trying to fix this, based on suggestions you might end up with.
How many miles on the vehicle? How do the plugs look? Are there any error codes in the computer? Is the vehicle due for, and/or have you tuned it up recently? What prior maintenance has been done on the vehicle, and anything related to this problem? There's a lot of factors that go into trying to diagnose the problem.
I'd start by taking it somewhere who will check your computer for error codes. That may point the technician (or you) to a particular area to start looking at. Some autoparts chains will read the error codes for free for you.
Expectations were not high....just thought I might get lucky:) Can you tell me just one thing though? Should I tow it so that they can see for themselves what its doing or just wait till it warms up outside ,crank it, and drive it. I live in a small town with small garages. Little Rock is 30 minutes
On symptoms where it only occurs when the engine is cold or fist started, arrange to drop off the car at night, and put the keys in the night slot. Get a ride home. They'll see the problem when the go to start it in the morning.
Did your mechanic ever figure out the problem? I have the same problem and have taken it several places. No one knows the problem. Any feedback would be helpful.
My problems with the truck intermittantly starting but all the lights etc would work ended up being the ground wire to the battery. The cable going into the battery connection was not solid. It wasnt broken but it wiggled around alot. I clipped the end off put a new connector on and no more issues. If your cable is the least bit wiggly I would try this cheap easy fix first!
Hello to everyone just wanted to pick some thoughts up as to why my tahoe won't start. I've had the vehicle for 4 years and never had a problem but for the last year it sat outside and when i finally went to start it fired right up. Stepped on the brakes and bam right to the floor . So I replaced front brake lines and just as I suspected I had broke the line to the rear while changing the front Changed the rear lines started it up no problem but i noticed a few drips of fuel.Next day went out out started right up went under and found a leaky fuel line.Let the truck sit last month or so and now it won't start. Anyway It never gave me a problem starting till now. It turns over good (battery fully charged) I had put dry gas in thought maybe something froze.I can hear the pump run I can smell fuel and just as i relase the key it will spit like it wants to fire but won't start.Thanks for any input
Too many variables. Being that it set up, I'd start off with the basics: Spark, Fuel, Air. Check your spark with a spark tester to make sure that you have strong fire. Check your fuel at the test port and with a fuel gauge tester. You need to make sure that you have proper fuel pressure to start the vehicle and no line constriction. Make sure that you have no air constriction to the engine in the air ducts and various vacuum lines (bird nest, rodent nest, chewed or dry rotted holes, etc.) Personally I've had gas sit in a tank and "separate" (looks like "Varsol") and ruin a brand new fuel pump and screen. Hope my thoughts put you in the right direction.
Check out the crankshaft position sensor, if the 96 has one. I have a 97 and the symptoms sound similar to mine and the sensor failed. I replace the sensor and it will start. My problem is that my sensor keeps going bad and it happens around this time every year. Not sure if it is moisture getting in to the sensor, wiring, connectors or something else.
Thanks for the responses. I pulled the coil wire the other day and cranked it over and I have good spark from there. I pulled 1 plug wire but did not get a spark from the wire to a bolt on the engine. So i'm assuming the module may be bad.I'm gonna pull a plug wire and see if there is a spark from there. At least it should tell me if the module is ok.
Yea I pulled a plug wire and put a new plug in it and I had spark so I pulled the plugs and they were all wet so I cleaned them up and reinstalled the with some fresh gas and low and behold it fired right up. Idles fine good driveability. Thanks again for all responses.
The other day I went out and started my truck. It hasn't been started in about a week. I let it run for a bit and moved it around the driveway. Parked it back in it usual spot, turned it off, and locked it up. The next day I went out to take it to the store and it would not start. I put the key in, it buzzed, radio came on, dash lights worked, but it would not start. As I turned it over it presented me with a clicking sound much like the sound that the starter has gone bad.
The only other thing that was different about the truck that normally doesn't happen is the 4x4 was actually working. From the time I purchased the truck (last January 09) the four-wheel drive hasn't worked. We have snow here and just for curiosity, I put it in four-wheel drive and low and behold it worked. Then the next day it wouldn't start.
It's a 1995 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4 5.7L
I'm not sure if the starter is the problem, although I think it probably is. I wanted to know if there are other problems that would cause my truck to do this so I don't run out and buy a starter, install it, and it not be the solution. Any other suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
When a battery is going bad, it will generally hold enough voltage/charge to power the things that don't take much power. However, when you go to try and use the starter (which draws over a hundred amps), the battery can't supply the power needed, and you hear a click click from the starter solenoid trying to engage.
Most autoparts chains will check your battery and alternator for free.
Most batteries are good for 3-5 year timeframe, and the cold winter are the hardest start conditions for a battery, so you generally find batteries failing in the winter.
You may have left some lights on in the vehicle from the prior day, so just don't arbitrarily replace the battery without having it tested....unless you know you have been having issues with it and it's at end of life.
I just replaced the battery for the 4th time since 2009. The batteries usually only last about 3 months in this vehicle for some unknown reason and they are all Brand New batteries. Usually the battery will die (not sure why I think there is something that is sucking the juice out of it, but haven't found what it may be yet). I'll test the battery and see if that may be it. Usually when the battery is dead, it won't let me unlock the doors with key lock on my keychain. Do you know of anything that may play a part in draining the battery. All lights are off and there are not direct connects to the battery.
Then either your alternator is not working properly and keeping your battery charged, or you have some parasitic electrical drain.
The better autoparts chains can do a battery and alternator 'load test', where they can test that the alternator is putting out full voltage and current. Have this done first. You may have a bad diode in the alternator.
Once you know the alternator and battery are in excellent shape, verify that you don't have any corrosion on your battery connections, up inside the cable connections, or where they attach to the starter and engine ground.
Then you will need to have an electrical shop check for what is draining the battery. They can put a current monitor on the battery, and see how much current is being drained out, and then start unplugging fuses to help isolate what is in the ON state when it shouldn't be.
Just only as an example, not to suggest this is your problem, but I had a relay go bad in my 97 Suburban years ago, where it was constantly providing power to the rear heater unit and blowing low speed air constantly. If the car had sat for any period, the battery would be drained and dead. It could be power seats, windows, A/C, just about anything.
I am having issues also with my 2007 Tahoe not starting - my issues started a lil over a month ago - I went outside to crank my car up and it wouldnt start - I have had tohave my car towed 5 times in the last month!! Everytime the dealership has an excuse but several days later the same thing happens. Just last week the delearship had my car for 4 days and the only thing they could come up with was my "key is not reading" Seriously how in the heck does it just stop reading both of my keys @ the same time????? The 1st time they gave me an even lamer excuse - it was my battery but I had already tried to jump it off ....... Today is no different, my car is @ the dealership again and they STILL dont have a clue as to what is wrong with my truck. I also have a Viper Remote Start Alarm System on my car but that has been disabled for over a month now because of all of the issues. I have put an amazing amount of money into my car and over halfway done paying for it so trading it in is NOT an option! Someone please help me please : ( :sick:
I bought a 96 Tahoe "Project" a few weeks ago. It was in pieces. I put the engine back together replacing what needed to be. Got the engine back in and fired it up. Ran great sounded real good but had a miss to it through out engine range. While trying to pinpoint the miss I started having starter trouble. Replaced the starter and no start. I have checked everything I can think of and replaced most everything. New plugs, wires, fuel filter, pump and relay. Replaced cam and crank shaft position sensors, TPS, and most other sensors. New coil and mod. Cap and rotor are good. Even rented a diag. computer..."PASS, No codes found." I will be pulling the intake and valve covers today and check injectors and valves. The ONLY thing I've noticed and I think may be a problem is my spark is not blue, the best I can get is yellow/orange. Any ideas, am I missing something? Also, new battery.
Not too sure, I re-did so much that day. I cleaned all batt. conections, pulled the fuse box and cleaned all those conections too. I had an o-ring missing on the intake, that let water in since it was rainy a few days before that, pulled the plugs and gave them a good cleaning, trying to start with water in the intake was hard on them, replaced my dist. the teeth showed slight wear, but I figured it was for the better anyway, and reset the timing, came from replacing the dist. It started right up after all that. Of course thats not mentioning that I also found out later that day that the Alt. was no good, so that got replaced too.
Have a 2004 Tahoe that began giving me problems starting first thing in the morning. Replaced plugs, wires, and fuel filter - still had the problem. After reading other threads on here I began to suspect the fuel pump. The truck sits on an incline in our dirveway nose down. This morning, sure enough, it would not start. Rolled it down to the flat part of the driveway and it started. Took it down to the local GM Dealer and fuel pressure was only 40psi - should be twice that figure. $989.00 for parts and labor - lifetime warranty. 53k miles - fixed the problem!
I have the problem and found that if I am under quarter tank and park with the front lower than back it wont start. Roll flat and starts right up. Done this sense new.
Comments
Black wet and sooty, is too much fuel with maybe not enough spark.
What error codes are being set in the computer?
Since the ignition timing is computer controlled, I am suspecting the PCM.
Chevy dealership said that they will do a complete diagnosis for $75 and it will go towards the solution, be it computer flashing or whatever.
Otherwise I can get a PCM cheap from the local pull apart, but I'd be taking my chances being that the PCM is to be reprogrammed with your own VIN#.
Just wanted to let you know that you are not alone.
If it's on the side, then try to pick up whether it's coming from the front, or back.
Recently installed a starter and a "resistor." Not 100% sure what the deal was with resistor, but those are the only recent changes to vehicle.
Post-starter install it's been fine for him. However, he got a code and had another friend plug in the scanner to find out what it was.
Now, his "tow" light comes on whenever he starts the car and has a starting issue. From what I understand, every time the truck is started (regardless of cold or warm start) it takes a while to start. It does start, but from what he described it was like a slow start.
Is there anything that would cause the "tow" light to come on and also cause the weak start?
Not familiar with the suburbans, but can get whatever info may help...
What is really odd is that the problem has occured on two different situations:
1.) Most recently on a return from an extended vacation (>5 days) the car would not start or stay running at idle
2.) a quick stop at a store for 5 minutes, return to vehicle and it will not start or stay running.
The fuel rail losing pressure sounds likely but the fuel pressure regulator does NOT have gas in the vacuum line and each situation above seems like they are mutually exclusive.
Thanks
Jeff
Joe
Thanks for any help you can give.
Picture is at http://berkey.biz/starter.jpg
My Suburban's starter is not turning fast enough to start the truck. In fact it acts like the batteries are both drained. The batteries have both been charged, and I hooked up jumper cables to boost the power when trying to start, but it didn't change the symptoms.
My inspection of the cables showed no corrosion at the terminals. My inspection of the starter innards shows grooving in the brushes and copper (aren't they supposed to be smooth?), and from what I understand from past starters, there are supposed to be slots between the copper contacts (at least I think that's what I've seen before), but there isn't on this one. I've never before seen a worn out starter in terms of the copper contacts, so I am wondering if you think this starter looks perfectly functional or if it has run its lifespan. Take a look at the picture, and if you have any questions, leave an answer or email me at "adam @ berkey . biz" (no spaces)
Thanks...
I took it down to Schucks to get tested, but their test doesn't include the friction of the compression of an engine, so I'm wondering though it passed the test on their testing equipment, that the actual use of it trying to compress the cylinders in the truck need more "juice."
jstroos
You could end up throwing a lot of unnecessary parts into trying to fix this, based on suggestions you might end up with.
How many miles on the vehicle? How do the plugs look? Are there any error codes in the computer? Is the vehicle due for, and/or have you tuned it up recently? What prior maintenance has been done on the vehicle, and anything related to this problem? There's a lot of factors that go into trying to diagnose the problem.
I'd start by taking it somewhere who will check your computer for error codes. That may point the technician (or you) to a particular area to start looking at. Some autoparts chains will read the error codes for free for you.
Personally I've had gas sit in a tank and "separate" (looks like "Varsol") and ruin a brand new fuel pump and screen. Hope my thoughts put you in the right direction.
My problem is that my sensor keeps going bad and it happens around this time every year. Not sure if it is moisture getting in to the sensor, wiring, connectors or something else.
The only other thing that was different about the truck that normally doesn't happen is the 4x4 was actually working. From the time I purchased the truck (last January 09) the four-wheel drive hasn't worked. We have snow here and just for curiosity, I put it in four-wheel drive and low and behold it worked. Then the next day it wouldn't start.
It's a 1995 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4 5.7L
I'm not sure if the starter is the problem, although I think it probably is. I wanted to know if there are other problems that would cause my truck to do this so I don't run out and buy a starter, install it, and it not be the solution. Any other suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Meisha
When a battery is going bad, it will generally hold enough voltage/charge to power the things that don't take much power. However, when you go to try and use the starter (which draws over a hundred amps), the battery can't supply the power needed, and you hear a click click from the starter solenoid trying to engage.
Most autoparts chains will check your battery and alternator for free.
Most batteries are good for 3-5 year timeframe, and the cold winter are the hardest start conditions for a battery, so you generally find batteries failing in the winter.
You may have left some lights on in the vehicle from the prior day, so just don't arbitrarily replace the battery without having it tested....unless you know you have been having issues with it and it's at end of life.
The better autoparts chains can do a battery and alternator 'load test', where they can test that the alternator is putting out full voltage and current. Have this done first. You may have a bad diode in the alternator.
Once you know the alternator and battery are in excellent shape, verify that you don't have any corrosion on your battery connections, up inside the cable connections, or where they attach to the starter and engine ground.
Then you will need to have an electrical shop check for what is draining the battery. They can put a current monitor on the battery, and see how much current is being drained out, and then start unplugging fuses to help isolate what is in the ON state when it shouldn't be.
Just only as an example, not to suggest this is your problem, but I had a relay go bad in my 97 Suburban years ago, where it was constantly providing power to the rear heater unit and blowing low speed air constantly. If the car had sat for any period, the battery would be drained and dead. It could be power seats, windows, A/C, just about anything.
Good luck