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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems



  • krush2krush2 Posts: 3
    I changed my starter and haven't had any problems since. I hope this helps.
  • My problems with the truck intermittantly starting but all the lights etc would work ended up being the ground wire to the battery. The cable going into the battery connection was not solid. It wasnt broken but it wiggled around alot. I clipped the end off put a new connector on and no more issues. If your cable is the least bit wiggly I would try this cheap easy fix first!
  • Hello to everyone just wanted to pick some thoughts up as to why my tahoe won't start. I've had the vehicle for 4 years and never had a problem but for the last year it sat outside and when i finally went to start it fired right up. Stepped on the brakes and bam right to the floor . So I replaced front brake lines and just as I suspected I had broke the line to the rear while changing the front Changed the rear lines started it up no problem but i noticed a few drips of fuel.Next day went out out started right up went under and found a leaky fuel line.Let the truck sit last month or so and now it won't start. Anyway It never gave me a problem starting till now. It turns over good (battery fully charged) I had put dry gas in thought maybe something froze.I can hear the pump run I can smell fuel and just as i relase the key it will spit like it wants to fire but won't start.Thanks for any input
  • Too many variables. Being that it set up, I'd start off with the basics: Spark, Fuel, Air. Check your spark with a spark tester to make sure that you have strong fire. Check your fuel at the test port and with a fuel gauge tester. You need to make sure that you have proper fuel pressure to start the vehicle and no line constriction. Make sure that you have no air constriction to the engine in the air ducts and various vacuum lines (bird nest, rodent nest, chewed or dry rotted holes, etc.)
    Personally I've had gas sit in a tank and "separate" (looks like "Varsol") and ruin a brand new fuel pump and screen. Hope my thoughts put you in the right direction.
  • Check out the crankshaft position sensor, if the 96 has one. I have a 97 and the symptoms sound similar to mine and the sensor failed. I replace the sensor and it will start.
    My problem is that my sensor keeps going bad and it happens around this time every year. Not sure if it is moisture getting in to the sensor, wiring, connectors or something else.
  • Thanks for the responses. I pulled the coil wire the other day and cranked it over and I have good spark from there. I pulled 1 plug wire but did not get a spark from the wire to a bolt on the engine. So i'm assuming the module may be bad.I'm gonna pull a plug wire and see if there is a spark from there. At least it should tell me if the module is ok.
  • btabakbtabak Posts: 2
    Same problem. below 25F takes forever to start. Any ideas what's wrong?
  • btabakbtabak Posts: 2
    Did you figure out the problem? If so what was it?
  • Yea I pulled a plug wire and put a new plug in it and I had spark so I pulled the plugs and they were all wet so I cleaned them up and reinstalled the with some fresh gas and low and behold it fired right up. Idles fine good driveability. Thanks again for all responses.
  • The other day I went out and started my truck. It hasn't been started in about a week. I let it run for a bit and moved it around the driveway. Parked it back in it usual spot, turned it off, and locked it up. The next day I went out to take it to the store and it would not start. I put the key in, it buzzed, radio came on, dash lights worked, but it would not start. As I turned it over it presented me with a clicking sound much like the sound that the starter has gone bad.

    The only other thing that was different about the truck that normally doesn't happen is the 4x4 was actually working. From the time I purchased the truck (last January 09) the four-wheel drive hasn't worked. We have snow here and just for curiosity, I put it in four-wheel drive and low and behold it worked. Then the next day it wouldn't start.

    It's a 1995 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4 5.7L

    I'm not sure if the starter is the problem, although I think it probably is. I wanted to know if there are other problems that would cause my truck to do this so I don't run out and buy a starter, install it, and it not be the solution. Any other suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.


  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Sounds more like the battery is dead.

    When a battery is going bad, it will generally hold enough voltage/charge to power the things that don't take much power. However, when you go to try and use the starter (which draws over a hundred amps), the battery can't supply the power needed, and you hear a click click from the starter solenoid trying to engage.

    Most autoparts chains will check your battery and alternator for free.

    Most batteries are good for 3-5 year timeframe, and the cold winter are the hardest start conditions for a battery, so you generally find batteries failing in the winter.

    You may have left some lights on in the vehicle from the prior day, so just don't arbitrarily replace the battery without having it tested....unless you know you have been having issues with it and it's at end of life.
  • I just replaced the battery for the 4th time since 2009. The batteries usually only last about 3 months in this vehicle for some unknown reason and they are all Brand New batteries. Usually the battery will die (not sure why I think there is something that is sucking the juice out of it, but haven't found what it may be yet). I'll test the battery and see if that may be it. Usually when the battery is dead, it won't let me unlock the doors with key lock on my keychain. Do you know of anything that may play a part in draining the battery. All lights are off and there are not direct connects to the battery.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Then either your alternator is not working properly and keeping your battery charged, or you have some parasitic electrical drain.

    The better autoparts chains can do a battery and alternator 'load test', where they can test that the alternator is putting out full voltage and current. Have this done first. You may have a bad diode in the alternator.

    Once you know the alternator and battery are in excellent shape, verify that you don't have any corrosion on your battery connections, up inside the cable connections, or where they attach to the starter and engine ground.

    Then you will need to have an electrical shop check for what is draining the battery. They can put a current monitor on the battery, and see how much current is being drained out, and then start unplugging fuses to help isolate what is in the ON state when it shouldn't be.

    Just only as an example, not to suggest this is your problem, but I had a relay go bad in my 97 Suburban years ago, where it was constantly providing power to the rear heater unit and blowing low speed air constantly. If the car had sat for any period, the battery would be drained and dead. It could be power seats, windows, A/C, just about anything.

    Good luck
  • pctoyapctoya Posts: 1
    I am having issues also with my 2007 Tahoe not starting - my issues started a lil over a month ago - I went outside to crank my car up and it wouldnt start - I have had tohave my car towed 5 times in the last month!! Everytime the dealership has an excuse but several days later the same thing happens. Just last week the delearship had my car for 4 days and the only thing they could come up with was my "key is not reading" Seriously how in the heck does it just stop reading both of my keys @ the same time????? The 1st time they gave me an even lamer excuse - it was my battery but I had already tried to jump it off ....... Today is no different, my car is @ the dealership again and they STILL dont have a clue as to what is wrong with my truck. I also have a Viper Remote Start Alarm System on my car but that has been disabled for over a month now because of all of the issues. I have put an amazing amount of money into my car and over halfway done paying for it so trading it in is NOT an option! Someone please help me please : ( :sick:
  • reaper107reaper107 Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    I bought a 96 Tahoe "Project" a few weeks ago. It was in pieces. I put the engine back together replacing what needed to be. Got the engine back in and fired it up. Ran great sounded real good but had a miss to it through out engine range. While trying to pinpoint the miss I started having starter trouble. Replaced the starter and no start. I have checked everything I can think of and replaced most everything. New plugs, wires, fuel filter, pump and relay. Replaced cam and crank shaft position sensors, TPS, and most other sensors. New coil and mod. Cap and rotor are good. Even rented a diag. computer..."PASS, No codes found." I will be pulling the intake and valve covers today and check injectors and valves. The ONLY thing I've noticed and I think may be a problem is my spark is not blue, the best I can get is yellow/orange. Any ideas, am I missing something? Also, new battery.
  • it already.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What was the fix?
  • Not too sure, I re-did so much that day. I cleaned all batt. conections, pulled the fuse box and cleaned all those conections too. I had an o-ring missing on the intake, that let water in since it was rainy a few days before that, pulled the plugs and gave them a good cleaning, trying to start with water in the intake was hard on them, replaced my dist. the teeth showed slight wear, but I figured it was for the better anyway, and reset the timing, came from replacing the dist. It started right up after all that. Of course thats not mentioning that I also found out later that day that the Alt. was no good, so that got replaced too.
  • 82z28man82z28man Posts: 1
    Have a 2004 Tahoe that began giving me problems starting first thing in the morning. Replaced plugs, wires, and fuel filter - still had the problem. After reading other threads on here I began to suspect the fuel pump. The truck sits on an incline in our dirveway nose down. This morning, sure enough, it would not start. Rolled it down to the flat part of the driveway and it started. Took it down to the local GM Dealer and fuel pressure was only 40psi - should be twice that figure. $989.00 for parts and labor - lifetime warranty. 53k miles - fixed the problem! :)
  • tdarrtdarr Posts: 5
    I have the problem and found that if I am under quarter tank and park with the front lower than back it wont start. Roll flat and starts right up. Done this sense new.
  • The security light is on and tahoe won't start. What can I do
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Try the other key. Each key has a security chip in it, which is programmed to work with the computer in the car.

    If that doesn't work, have the vehicle towed to the dealership with your keys, and they can reprogram the computer to accept the security chip in each key.
  • cujocececujocece Posts: 6
    I started having problems with my suburban in december.I have 190,000 on the vehicle, original everything. I replaced the starter and battery. I still had long cranks before starting. I replaced the cap and rotor started up and moved it up 10 feet and turned it off. Tried to start it and it just cranked. I replaced the wires and plugs and coil pack and checked the ignition module all ok. I have fuel at the rail. I bought a ignition pickup or crank shaft position starter and installed. The one I took out was only 1/2 there. Thought I found the issue. Replaced and started it up but then I shut it off and it would not restart. It will start maybe every 20 times that I try. Now I looked at the rotor and cap and they look like the ones that were on there for 14 years, I am wondering due to a bad crank shaft position sensor if I screwed the new rotor and cap up. Anyone out there have any ideas?
  • lthauslthaus Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Friend of mine is having problems starting her Tahoe.


    insert key and turn ignition...

    Engine turns over for about 2 seconds.

    Reset key

    Repeat.. Same 2 seconds.

    I plan to remove the starter and have it tested at an auto parts place.
    Any other words of wisdom or if you have seen this problem before?

    Thank you all.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Security system?

    Is it possible the key microchip, isn't registered in the computer anymore? Can you try a different key to eliminate that as a possibility?
  • Just bought Suburban last week. Ran fine for the first few days then on way home came to a stop sign and fan motor kicked off followed by suburban completely dying. Turned key a few times and it started up no more problems for another couple of days. On Saturday drove just fine stopped would not start back up. Had my wife come jump me. At first it did nothing when I put key in run. The dash lights would come on but as soon as I moved key from on to start dash lights would go out. Then I noticed e break light flashing set and released e break and it started right up. Didn't run it over weekend. Went out to start on Monday and first time would get dash lights but as soon as key moved from on to start dash lights go out and starter clicks once. On subsequent attempts to start no dash lights and starter does not click. Have checked battery, starter all check good. Have replaced ignition switch still no joy. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • luschez28luschez28 Posts: 3
    I have read through this thread, and have not seen the exact same problem I am having.

    I bought my '01 Tahoe a little over a year ago. The first day the SES light came on, and went off again right away. But no symptoms were occuring. It did this off and on for the first year. My code reader kept saying multiple missfire, or bad 02 sensor, but still drove just fine. Then, starting this winter, it developed a rough idle, and sometimes hard to start.

    When starting, if it's been sitting for a while, it will start perfectly. If warmed up, it will just crank unless you push the pedal to the floor (like it's flooded). It will then start, but smoke eminates from the tailpipe, and you can smell the gasoline.

    The rough idle is never apparent at first, but after it sits idleing for a few minutes, it becomes rough, but never dies or stalls. After driving for a few minutes, it dissappears, but returns in a few minutes of idle.

    Now, I am getting the code P0446, so now I may have a fuel/vent/vacuum issue as well. But this just started a week ago.

    The spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter are all new within the last 3 months.

    Could all these issues be stemming from one problem? Or is multiple problems that are affecting the same system? I hate this, give me a 4bbl carb and a screw driver, and this would have been a 10 minute fix. :mad:
  • cujocececujocece Posts: 6
    I fixed the problem, it was the fuel pump again. I had changed it 2 years ago and it went again. I bought a OEM this time. Thanks for everyones help.
  • cujocececujocece Posts: 6
    It could be your fuel pump is losing pressure.Try a pressure regulator on the fuel rail.
  • luschez28luschez28 Posts: 3
    edited May 2010

    I replaced the oxygen sensors, there were supposed to be four but ended up only having two.

    I also tightened the crap out of the fuel cap.

    Now, no codes come back. It's been going for two days without one code. Unfortunately, it still has the same symptoms, hard to start and rough idle. So I fixed something, just not what was causing the symptoms. Going to try the fuel pressure next.
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