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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    So do I understand this correctly, that 30K miles ago you put a rebuild engine into your truck, and it has been running fine up until most have a rebuild engine with 30K miles on it, and you just put it in your truck and can't get it working right?

    Black wet and sooty, is too much fuel with maybe not enough spark.

    What error codes are being set in the computer?
  • I have a 97 chevy suburban w/5.7 with the same exact condition. Original motor w/180,000 miles with orig trans. Replaced plugs, fuel pressure regulator, crankshaft pos. sensor, checked fuel pressure (which is within specs), Have spark (blue, but seems a little slow, compared to my 94 w/5.7 with orange spark. Checked my ignition timing with a timing light and found it to be incorrect (before and after I replaced the crank pos sensor). I have been dealing with this for over 6 months. I am surprised my starter still works from all the cranking.

    Since the ignition timing is computer controlled, I am suspecting the PCM.

    Chevy dealership said that they will do a complete diagnosis for $75 and it will go towards the solution, be it computer flashing or whatever.

    Otherwise I can get a PCM cheap from the local pull apart, but I'd be taking my chances being that the PCM is to be reprogrammed with your own VIN#.

    Just wanted to let you know that you are not alone.
  • About 2 weeks ago my tahoe started making a whirring noise. At first I thought transmission, but I'm pretty sure that's not it. My mechanic replaced the right wheel hub but that made no difference, the noise is still there. It almost sounds like a tire but I have 4 brand new Michelins with about 4K miles on them so a sudden whirring noise doesn't seem logical. The noise begins to be noticeable around 20 mph and then winds up with speed and winds down as I slow to a stop. The sound is not evident in neutral when I increase the engine rpms only when I'm rolling. Any advise? Thanks - Ernie
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    About the only suggestion I could make, is have someone ride with you in the back seat with the windows down. Compare the noise by listening out the right window, with that out the left window. If the sound is the same intensity, then I'm guessing it would be from the transmission (in the middle of the car), versus a wheel (clearly on one side of the car).

    If it's on the side, then try to pick up whether it's coming from the front, or back.
  • I have seen several people in this thread with the same issue of no crank. I too can wiggle the wire and it seems to make it start. It odesnt make sense though because I have checked and rechecked connections. The only thing that sounds like a possibilty is the starter solenoid or the park switch. Noone has actually said what fixed this problem though...anyone?? I am going to check the shift lever next time it happens!
  • I switched to a new key and that seemed to cure it, although it did happen once with the new key. Hasn't happened in months, though.
  • I was wondering if you have mud grips. They are known to make a whirring noise. Other than that, one would assume possibly a bearing in a sealed hub or a brake tab if they believe the noise is from a wheel, but not always. If you have vibration when you drive, it could be a fault in a new tire (out of round condition). Another overlooked item is the u-joints on the driveshaft. Roll down your window, put your vehicle in drive, and let it roll freely. See if you can isolate the noise. If the noise starts right off and gets louder as the vehicle freely speeds up, it may be your u-joints. Get under the vehicle and work your driveshaft back and forth. If there is any free play, they need to be replaced. But of course, try to isolate the noise. Hope it helps, Ernie.
  • Friend's Suburban is a 2000.

    Recently installed a starter and a "resistor." Not 100% sure what the deal was with resistor, but those are the only recent changes to vehicle.

    Post-starter install it's been fine for him. However, he got a code and had another friend plug in the scanner to find out what it was.

    Now, his "tow" light comes on whenever he starts the car and has a starting issue. From what I understand, every time the truck is started (regardless of cold or warm start) it takes a while to start. It does start, but from what he described it was like a slow start.

    Is there anything that would cause the "tow" light to come on and also cause the weak start?

    Not familiar with the suburbans, but can get whatever info may help...
  • My 2002 Chevy Tahoe is having intermittent problems with starting. Engine cranks but won't start. Takes multiple attempts to start and when it does fire it does stay running unless I start to lightly feather in gas by depressing the gas pedal (I know this is not recommended.) The engine will run poorly and then idle down below 500 RPM's amost to the point of stalling. In the last 6 months I have replaced fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump, battery. there are no DTC's in the computer. it is a 4.8L V-8.

    What is really odd is that the problem has occured on two different situations:
    1.) Most recently on a return from an extended vacation (>5 days) the car would not start or stay running at idle
    2.) a quick stop at a store for 5 minutes, return to vehicle and it will not start or stay running.

    The fuel rail losing pressure sounds likely but the fuel pressure regulator does NOT have gas in the vacuum line and each situation above seems like they are mutually exclusive.

  • did you ever find out the problem?
  • Did you every get a response on what the problem may be? We are having similar problems with our Tahoe same year. Curious as to what the outcome was.
  • Please view this picture to help answer my questions.
    Thanks for any help you can give.

    Picture is at

    My Suburban's starter is not turning fast enough to start the truck. In fact it acts like the batteries are both drained. The batteries have both been charged, and I hooked up jumper cables to boost the power when trying to start, but it didn't change the symptoms.

    My inspection of the cables showed no corrosion at the terminals. My inspection of the starter innards shows grooving in the brushes and copper (aren't they supposed to be smooth?), and from what I understand from past starters, there are supposed to be slots between the copper contacts (at least I think that's what I've seen before), but there isn't on this one. I've never before seen a worn out starter in terms of the copper contacts, so I am wondering if you think this starter looks perfectly functional or if it has run its lifespan. Take a look at the picture, and if you have any questions, leave an answer or email me at "adam @ berkey . biz" (no spaces)


    I took it down to Schucks to get tested, but their test doesn't include the friction of the compression of an engine, so I'm wondering though it passed the test on their testing equipment, that the actual use of it trying to compress the cylinders in the truck need more "juice."
  • I have a 02 Z71Tahoe that will not start. Problem started about a month ago when I went to start the truck, turned the key, no noise! Lights, radio, dash lights all came on, but no action. Came back a hour or so later, it started right up! Truck would not start a few weeks ago, got it towed to my house, soon as the truck was lowered from tow truck, I got in just to check, and it started right up. Drove fine with no problems for a week, then all of a sudden, problem came back again.tried jump starting, but no results. How do I know if its the starter, battery or ECM? Please help!!!
  • Left the Tahoe with the dealer for 3 days and they had no solution. However, it has not failed to start since. over four weeks ago now. Love you know if you figure your problem out. Then I can check mine.

  • ok this problem has been eluding me for months now. My 92 Burb will not start without adding starting fluid and then will not idle at less than 1500-2000 RPM. I am getting 12+volts to the injectors I have changed the oil pressure sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, ESC, EEC(computer) O2 sensor, map sensor, Idle air control valve, full tune up and full oil change. The symptoms are; Vehicle will not start without starting fluid, then once started will not idle below 1500-2000, it appears to shut off the injectors. I have talked to several techs that I know and they are all baffled. ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have you checked the compression in each cylinder, and how about a leaking intake manifold?
  • No leaks that I found and I rebuilt heads and reinstalled them so compression is wihtin 2lbs of each other. however if I put fuel in the TBI it will start then if I keep it at above 1500 RPM it runs perfect it is once I try to let it idle the injectors shut off
  • tdarrtdarr Posts: 5
    I had the same problem on my 2003 Z71. Had at dealer several times for problem , but they never fixed problem. Changed battery, ignition switch and checked everything in starting system . I installed new starter not rebuilt and have not had problem in two years. I was having the same problem you are talking about with dead ignition at times with and without dash power when it happened. It was very intermittent . Hope this cures your problem. tdarr
  • I will try a new starter today. Hopefully this will fix the problem. Thanks tdarr, and I will keep u posted.
  • Had a similar prob with my 97 Sub. Same symptoms. Found out my battery was arcing. Made my piggy back positive cables melt to each other. Replaced battery under warranty and replaced both positive cables and made sure cables were tight on my starter and alternator. Problem Solved. Hope this helps.
  • Good help booty2324 :lemon:
  • cf4230cf4230 Posts: 1
    2007 chevy tahoe won't start. this all started when all the gauges quit working while the tahoe wasa running,shut it off and now it won't start. when turning the key over it just clickes.....everything including lights,radios....etc still works
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    sounds like the battery is run down and needs replaced
  • I agree with kiawah about the battery. But, I would like to add checking your cables also in case of corrosion.
  • I have a 02 Tahoe that does not like to start in cold weather. It did this last winter but as spring came around I had no more problems until the cold air came back this winter. It will roll over fine but will not start. And the other day it sounded like it was going to start and it just choked and died. I could smell gas or something. I tried again and it started fine. Anyways when it warms up outside its starts like new. No problems when its running at all. Just doesnt want to start when its really cold outside. Need some help please because I dont have the money to spend at a shop if they dont find the correct problem. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not sure how your expectations are that someone on the internet, who can neither see, hear, or drive your vehicle.....could do better diagnosis than a local technician. This is the type of reported symptom, that could be caused by so many different things.

    You could end up throwing a lot of unnecessary parts into trying to fix this, based on suggestions you might end up with.

    How many miles on the vehicle? How do the plugs look? Are there any error codes in the computer? Is the vehicle due for, and/or have you tuned it up recently? What prior maintenance has been done on the vehicle, and anything related to this problem? There's a lot of factors that go into trying to diagnose the problem.

    I'd start by taking it somewhere who will check your computer for error codes. That may point the technician (or you) to a particular area to start looking at. Some autoparts chains will read the error codes for free for you.
  • Expectations were not high....just thought I might get lucky:) Can you tell me just one thing though? Should I tow it so that they can see for themselves what its doing or just wait till it warms up outside ,crank it, and drive it. I live in a small town with small garages. Little Rock is 30 minutes
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    On symptoms where it only occurs when the engine is cold or fist started, arrange to drop off the car at night, and put the keys in the night slot. Get a ride home. They'll see the problem when the go to start it in the morning.
  • Good idea...thanks for your time :)
  • abc129abc129 Posts: 2
    Did your mechanic ever figure out the problem? I have the same problem and have taken it several places. No one knows the problem. Any feedback would be helpful.
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