You mentioned that you had your speedo problem fixed. What was the repair? My speedometer will stick at higher speeds when hot outside. I can reset when cooled down by bumping ign. switch on and off until needle moves to o.
Dealer just diagnosed my problem as the Body Control Module on a fail to start.........I got stuck twice and I removed the cable from the battery and it reset...................will update
tduinc, Can you please e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I would like to look into this further for you. Christina GM Customer Service
Recently my 09 fully loaded LTZ Tahoe failed to start. Electrically the vehicle was completely dead, but I had used the remote key only seconds before to unlock the vehicle so I knew something was wrong. I waited a few minutes and heard incessant clicking coming from the driver side door. I eventually figured it was just a computer glitch so I disconnected the battery in order to reboot the system. Once I reattached the battery cable the vehicle started immediately and all functions were normal.
Unfortunately, this cycle started repeating itself until it became an everyday event. I bought this vehicle before I moved to Europe so I wouldn't have any problems and am not pleased. Good luck finding a GM dealer in Europe. GM customer service hasn't even responded to my questions.
Today I located a Corvette and Cadillac dealer that agreed to take a look at the vehicle. On the way to the dealer the vehicle started behaving erratically. This was the first occurrence of any abnormal behavior once started. Twice when I stepped on the accelerator the vehicle seemed to shift itself to neutral and the RPMs rapidly climbed, simultaneously all of the door locks opened and closed repeatedly on their own. Additionally, the tach and speedo were moving from max indication to minimum indication in no relation to actual speed or RPM. All warning and/or advisory lights illuminated and the environmental control unit shut off. I could not accelerate during this period and nearly caused an accident trying to get off the road. After approximately 45 seconds the indications returned to normal and I could regain control of the accelerator and the transmission operated normally. I limped it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. The language barrier is a big problem, but they agreed to keep it a few days to run checks.
I see that some of you are having problems fixing similar problems in the USA, I am worried that my situation is hopeless in Europe. Please help me with any suggestions I can give to the dealer. The vehicle is under warranty but it is apparently nearly impossible to get warranty work paid for in Europe. If I can't get this fixed I may have to ship the truck back home at great cost to myself.
Please help. My Suburban won't start. It appears to have a "dead short?" somewhere.
With a new, fully charged battery, door buzzer, horn and interior lights are working. Turn the key - starter gives one grunt and then everything goes dead - no buzzer, horn, lights, etc.
This is a 1990 R2500 Suburban, hydraulic-assisted, 4-speed manual transmission, two wheel drive, 350 cid. I removed the alternator and starter and had them checked at the local parts store. They test good. Battery cables are not corroded. The vehicle has been operating just fine until this.
I'm a pretty good parts replacer but not a good diagnostician.
One of the first places to look for issues it the ground cable connection to the engine block. It is possible that a corroded cable itself has failed, but more likely that the connection is no longer capable of passing the kind of current required to activate the starter. My experience in that area was gained after numerous failed fusible links, which would pass enough current to operate the small lights, buzzers, etc., but were certainly inadequate for starting the engine. In addition, I'd check other ground straps as well, there should be several in the engine compartment which connect various components. Hope this helps! (BTW, a local dealership had one of my vehicles in many times, and replaced many parts, including a 2 week-old starter, and several fusible links. Somehow they missed the ground issue, a failing that I considered to be elemental. I found and corrected it myself it when the alternator failed on an interstate highway, due to being insufficiently ground-connected with the battery.)
Those of you experiencing starting issues should check and clean the main ground cable connection with the engine block before going further. On the 4WD trucks, it is very hard to get to! As I have stated in response to other posts, it is indeed commonly the source of all sorts of electrical gremlins. My starter turned out to have a failed (corroded and frayed) main strap between it and the attached solenoid.
As far as the procedure requiring removal of the dipstick in order to get the starter out: That is no rumor, it is fact, and pointed to as necessary in the GM service manual for my 2001 K 1500 Suburban. After ten years, there was enough corrosion that heating the boss (with a Mapp gas torch) where the tube fits into the block was quite necessary. It is a two-person job! I had to reduce the diameter of the new tube in order to get it into the block. I believe that there should have been a designed-in clearance instead of a press or interference fit, especially in light of an o-ring seal being a part of the tube assembly.
Like everyone else in this thread, I have had the same problem for about two years now. I took my 2007 Tahoe in last October and the dealer told me they could not find a problem. What is the status of this issue? It seems that everyone is having the same problem but there is no agreement to what the problem is exactly, nor is there a single solution. I just experienced this problem again yesterday. Please help! -Steve
Have you found a solution to this problem? I'm having the same problem with my 2007 Tahoe and nobody seems to agree about what the problem is or how to get it fixed. My dealer could not find a problem yet it continues to happen. Please let me know!
the dealer has reprogrammed the computer fixed ground problem and installed a new starter........what bothers me is that GM sees all of these complaints and knows there is a problem, but refuse to do anything about it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tduinc, I apologize and understand your frustration. If you would like to email me I would be happy to look into this for you. Please include your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, as well as complete contact information including a good number to reach you. Thank you! Christina GM Customer Service
steveq, I apologize for you inconvenience. Can you please email me directly and include your VIN and what you are experiencing specifically? Christina GM Customer Service
As of today, new starter has been installed.......did not sound right, so another new starter has been installed and after 10 days........no problems...............................will update good luck to all.........................
This post is a little old but I'm sure someone out there is looking. I was...as my '01 is starting to act up again.
I've got a 2001 that's had a couple "not starting" issues in the past.
One issue was the fuel pump was intermittently not providing enough pressure. I hooked up a pressure gauge and left it under the hood to finally figure this out. I could hear the pump run for 3 seconds when the key was turned on but no pressure on the gauge. The filter and regulator had both been replaced previously. Filter is about $8-15, regulator $30-50, Delphi fuel pump ~$300. You have to drop the gas tank to replace the fuel pump.
Another more common issue is the butterfly in the front of the intake gets carbon build up. A quick remedy is to disconnect the air tube to get access. Open the butterfly with your fingers and insert the handle of a large screwdriver to hold the butterfly open. Use a solvent that is sensor safe and a rag to clean the edges of the butterfly and the throat. Use gasoline, injector cleaner or anything to soften the carbon up and wipe it out with the rag. The dealer will charge several hundred $$$ to de-carbon the intake.
This tip came from a Saturday mechanic show and found it's common to see on many makes of vehicles. Usually you'll have surging idle speeds or rough idle before it gets bad enough that it wont start.
It seems like what contributes to this problem is there's a vent tube that dumps crankcase fumes into the manifold right where the cold air comes in through the butterfly and it tends to carbon up and at 70,000+ miles starts to become noticeable and more frequent.
It had also had a bad cam position sensor pigtail once. There was an engine code that kicked. I'd replaced the sensor but later found that a squirrel must have chewed the wires on the back of the motor.
Probably the worst and most expensive reason I've read about is the ECU was intermittently not firing the injectors and had to be replaced.
If you're looking at the motor from the drivers side, it's about 2" round and silver. It's located above the electrical connector for the 4 ignition coils on the drivers side of the motor. The regulator has a vacuum line coming off the top. A clip holds it in.
my truck will not run for more than 3 days. first we thought it was the battery, then fuel pump, we replaced all this. i turn it off at work then it wont crank that evening- next morning it was fine at lunch im going down the road and it just dies like its out of gas! nobody can find nuthin wrong with it. its been towed in 3 times this week. i think its the wiring. can a wiring malfunction make a vehicle go dead and cause it not to crank. i own a 2001 chev tahoe ls/lt v8 4 door. please help
About two weeks ago my tahoe started having problems with shutting off and then not starting. The fuel pump fuse was blown the first time it happened. The fuse blew a second time after a quarter mile of driving and a third time after ten miles. It shut off again four days later. No blown fuse this time - it would crank but would not start. I left it alone for about five minutes and it started immediately. It shut off again another four days later. Once again, it would crank but would not start and, once again, started immediately after about five minutes of sitting. I am getting fault codes U0121(Lost Communication with ABS Control Module) and U0140(Lost Communication with Body Control Module) when it happens. I am taking it to the dealer in a couple of days and wanted to know if anyone has run across an issue like this. The only prior issue was a dead battery because of door locks cycling continuously a couple of months ago. Any help out there?
I don't know if this will help, but I had problems with my battery dying after leaving the radio on for a few minutes with the engine off. The dealer said there was an update to the Body Control Module (BCM) that would fix it and they "flashed" it (updated it). My battery has not died on me since, but I have also been careful to turn off all accessories when the engine is not running.
A few days ago I was driving home from work when i noticed the my tahoe was acting up. I was at a stop light and when the light turned green i stepped on the gas pedal and my tahoe kind of stuttered as if wasn't getting fuel. so then finally it started to go and i kept driving when i went to pass someone i stepped the on the pedal a little harder and it did the same thing. The next day the same the thing was happening, when i would step on the gas pedal not much seemed to happen. my tahoe wouldn't really go when i stepped on the gas pedal. so then when i was going to go home from work i tried to start my tahoe and nothing would happen, it sounded like it was going to start but it just wouldn't kick over. the tow truck driver put more gas into my tahoe and nothing would happen. so then i realized that when i turned the ignition over i could no longer hear the whizzing sound that is said to be from the fuel pump. So is it my fuel pump? i was told to replace the fuel relay and i did and nothing happens. PLEASE HELP!!! THANKYOU!!"
My '01 Tahoe is having the same problem. Did you find what the problem was? I would REALLY appreciate it. Thank you!
AAA towed my 2007 Tahoe LTZ to the dealership yesterday (I've bought 4 Chevrolets in the past 4 years from the same dealer) with this same problem. They have serviced my Tahoe since it was new. It just turned 70K miles and the very same electrical problems that many of you have described has happened. The bells and whistles activate however it won't start. The dealer tells me it needs a new starter, solenoid and battery. Total fix, $900. I told the dealer if that's the case, NO MORE Chevrolet's for me or my company. I stuck by Chevrolet through the tough times and now they won't stick by me. It's supposed to be a new General Motors and new Chevrolets however it's the same old game when it comes to dealer service and corporate responsibility. I don't treat my customers this way.
I would like to know how your situation was resoled. Please let me know. Thank you and have a nice weekend.
On the coldest day of the year in January, a similar thing happened to my '01 Suburban. I left a business with the engine running fine, but when I entered a controlled-access state highway (like an interstate) it would not accelerate normally. I could only attain about 50 mph, and the engine stumbled badly if I tried to open the throttle more. With it running so poorly, I figured it would be best to get off the highway at the first opportunity. As I slowed for the big 180 degree curve, the engine stopped running, and I coasted to a stop on the shoulder of the exit. The engine almost restarted a couple of times but would not run. I called for a tow. Good thing I had a heavy coat, hat, and gloves!
I sprayed a small amount of starting fluid into the intake at home, and the engine fired for as long as the vapor lasted. Like garciar, I also could not hear the telltale sound of the fuel pump from right by the tank when a family member turned on the ignition. I ordered a new pump and filter, and installed them myself. That fixed the problem immediately, and the truck has run without that problem since, including a recent 2000+ mile trip.
Dropping the fuel tank on a Suburban is no job for a mechanical novice. Because of the method of attachment for the fuel lines (so-called quick-connects) and their locations, in particular the front two, it is obvious that the chassis for my truck was completed (including the fuel system) prior to dropping the body onto the frame. There is simply no way to disconnect the plastic over-tank lines without severing them, so they either have to be cut and replaced or the pump has to be changed with the lines still connected at the front, which is what I did. The process is incredibly difficult. I see why the labor cost is so high for the job.
One note to any D-I-Y mechanic out there: I struggled with the large hose section which connects the metal fuel filler pipe to the plastic tank. It was so stiff that I feared damage to the ($400+) tank's spout from straining to get the hose off, so I cut it with a knife. I figured maybe $20 - 30 at the dealership for the hose, less than a foot long and maybe 2" in diameter. Not so. The hose price at the dealer was $135! This is a GM-only part. I found one online discounted to just under $100. Sheesh! :surprise:
The dealer updated my Body Control Module (BCM). They said that would fix my battery drain problem. I'm not sure if it was really fixed but I haven't had a problem since.
The dealer updated my Body Control Module (BCM). They said that would fix my battery drain problem. I'm not sure if it was really fixed but I haven't had a problem since.
My Suburban will not start and loses complete power. I have noticed the amp guage going up and down below 14 while driving at any speed. If I shut the truck off when the amp guage is below 14, I lose all power and it will not start again. UNLESS, I open the hood and move the positive battery cable around, not at the terminal, but 3-4 inches from the battery. Then all power restored and it starts. I have checked all the cables and made sure they are tight. No corrosion. Anyone else have this problem???? Is there a fix?
Today the rear air started acting up. The front blows cold, but the rear blows hot...anyone have a fix?
Out of the blue, my suburban began starting hard. Turn the key and it cranks over for several seconds longer that it should. Finally catches, but just isn't right. Normally pops right over, but now it cranks for 5-6 seconds before it fires. Anyone have any ideas? Sounds like this could be a fuel pump or fuel system issue? Any ideas before I bring it into the dealer would be appreciated...
500 for the fuel pump! I found one online for a 2000 Tahoe for 150 shipped. I'm going to get it and have my mechanic install it. I'm guessing he'd charge 250 to 300 for the work. That's allot cheaper than 800 everyone is talking about. My Tahoe is doing exactly what everyone else's is. Starts on second turn of the key. The fuel gauge is intermittent, though. Goes up to full and drops down to empty while driving. This indicates the fuel pump as well as the not starting every time. Change the Pump.
If you do not mind, I'd like to know how many miles were on your Suburban when the problem surfaced? My 2001 model was right about 115,000 when the pump went out, so I can't feel too bad about it.
This is not a slow start it is a sluggish start like my battery is dying. The car starts and runs fine once started but as soon as you turn it off, and start it again? SAME sluggish battery dying start.. now if you drive it for a long time?? and turn the car off? still same sluggish start.. If I leave the truck sit over the weekend its DEAD I jump start the thing and it starts up AWESOME, no issues .. tested the Battery and the batt tests out at 15 volts.. so many people saying its the ALT.. but if its the Alternator? the car should not stay running very long right? If it was the starter? why on a jump does the truck start up normal? :confuse:
For almost a year now I have been having problems with starting my truck. Sometimes it starts perfectly others it just clicks or does nothing. Usually happens when the weather is colder. Battery is new, starter relay is new. When it happens it resets the stereo and some of the other computer items but not all. Looked at the instrument cluster recall, my VIN is not on the list. Only thing I can think of is the ignition switch, just wondered if this would cause the dash resets I am seeing and if I'm on the right track to replace the ignition. Any answers?
Actually I found a website called JustAnswer.com where for a small fee you can webchat with an expert. He told me that it was the starter solenoid. I've always had starters give me grief and then just quit, he said the new ones can cause intermitant problems for a while. He said the clue was the resetting of the radio but not all dash items. I intend to replace the starter & solenoid at the same time, no point in doing one now and the other later. He also gave me step by step instructions on how to change the ignition switch on the lower part of the steering column just on the off chance that changing the starter doesn't correct the problem.
Heh, information like that is all over the net for free. Not only in this forum but over in Edmunds Answers too. We have several great techs (and some auto mechanic instructors) freely giving advice all over our site. All you have to do is ask.
I am at my wits end here. I purchased a 2008 Chevy Suburban about 6 months ago. Up until about 10 days ago, it ran like a champ. The last week in a half, however, it will not start. I go out in the morning, and the lights, radio, etc. all work, but the car just will not start. Once it is hooked up to jumper cables, it starts right away. However, when I get to my destination, I cannot turn it off, or it will be dead again. It has the backup camera, navigation screen, DVD players, heated seats, etc. Obviously something is draining the battery, but would the lights and such still work if so?
One thing I also wonder about is the remote start. We just started using it about 2 weeks ago for the first time. Now all of the sudden, my car won't start.
Has anybody ran across a problem like this with their car? I am at my wits end..I am a traveling photographer, and have gotten stranded at a handful of shoots because of this.
Go to the dealer and have them update the BCM (Body Control Module) and also test the battery to see if it is bad. Also ask your dealer to check if there is a draw on the battery when the truck is shut off. I'm not convinced that updating the BCM is the final solution since my Tahoe had problems starting one time after updating its BCM (but I had left the radio on for a few minutes with the engine off).
stacygoss21, I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with your dealer yet? If not, I would recommend starting there. Please feel free to email me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I look forward to hearing from you. Have a great weekend! Christina GM Customer Service
Did you ever find what the problem was with your Tahoe. I've been reading alot of similar situations with GM vehicles and I can't help but think that maybe a component that is common to all these vehicle is the culprit - Onstar Module. Onstar controls door locks, can shut your ignition off, can slow your car to a stop, can affect lights, horn, and radio, and is circuited through all the electrical modules that controls these things. Even if you don't use your Onstar it is still connected to your communication bus and electrical systems. Onstar is disabled when you disconnect the battery, hence your car will start when you disconnect then reconnect your battery. I've got the same problems and I'm going to have Chevy disconnect the Onstar and see what happens. For everyone who is posting with these same problems, PLEASE post back if you find a resolution to your problem. Thanks
The dealer said the problem was my Body Control Module (BCM) and they updated it ("flashed it"). However, I'm not convinced that it was the sole cause of my battery drain. Your theory that it could be related to Onstar is very interesting and could be the culprit. Let us know what you find when you disconnect the Onstar. You should ask the dealer to check for battery draw before disconnecting Onstar, then check again after disconnecting Onstar. Let us know!
See message #170 of 173 Recurring battery/engine issues under Chevrolet Tahoe Battery Problems by cachelot for background on our issues. Supplying information recently found that may help some people.
If your engine won't turn over even with a jump and it appears no fuel is getting to the engine, and BEFORE paying your mechanic to replace your fuel pump system (~$900) or anything similar, go to youtube and check out this video that was recently sent to me. Just type in "Stories from the Road, GM Passlock Issue from Hell" I believe this may be the issue with many of these GM vehicles. Hopefully it helps someone.
Did you ever figure out this problem - I have the identical problem - tried plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, no luck! Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated - I start my tahoe every morning now, but if I go away for the weekend, I'm toast
Well, my dealer updated my Body Control Module (BCM) saying that would fix things, but I'm not sure if it actually did. I would ask the dealer to test the draw on your battery when the engine is not running, or check your BCM (if you have one). Mine is a '07, not sure if '99 has a BCM or not.
I have a 2007 Tahoe and 2 1/2 months ago I went start it and NOTHING! I called a tow truck they tried for 15 minutes to get it running by jumping it and messing with the cables. We tow it to the dealership and as soon as we unload it, it starts! I have the dealership look at it and they tell me I need a new battery, $196.00 later I have a new battery and a working car. Ten days later, it won't start again! I call the dealership, they said to bring it in, I call the tow truck again, but try to jump it myself, and what do you know after 20 minutes of messing with it, I get it to turn over. I drive it to the dealership, they keep it all day and call me saying I need to have the brackets that hold the battery in place replaced, that they are killing the battery. The cost, $550.00! I don't have them do it as it didn't make any sense to me. I take to a friends mechanic and he checks out the car and tests the battery and tells me that the battery the dealership sold me was faulty, they replace it for free. I drive for a couple days and again the car won't start again, this happens 6 times in a 3 week period. But I can get it to start and took it to the mechanic a few more time to have them run tests on it. They tell me it's the factory security system and only a dealerships can get into and fix the factory security system. I take it to a different dealership as I don't trust the first one and the bill says the cause is; no ground at strater ralay, and no communication on high speed lamp. Part number; 19210436 at the cost of $346.19 an labor at $404.00 and the tow bill adds up to $913.85! This was done on 10/31/2011. On Sunday, November 13th it won't start again! I take it in to the last dealership, they have it for two days... just got off the phone and now they say I need a new negative battery cable and a new instrument cluster, cost $811.00!!!! I am at my wits end with this car!! I love it but don't have the money to keep throwing at it. I told the dealership not to fit it, that I needed to do some research first. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
I would have the dealer update (flash) the Body Control Module (BCM). This seems to be at least part of the problem with battery drain for the 2007 Tahoe. It should be a free update. After doing the update, however, I would still recommend making sure everything in your truck is turned off if the engine is off (e.g., the radio, lights, etc.).
I'm sorry to hear about the start-up concern with your Tahoe, and that the problem is as yet unresolved. If we can investigate further, please email us more information (including your name/username, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and your preferred dealership).
Comments
Chevy contact
Can you please e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I would like to look into this further for you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Unfortunately, this cycle started repeating itself until it became an everyday event. I bought this vehicle before I moved to Europe so I wouldn't have any problems and am not pleased. Good luck finding a GM dealer in Europe. GM customer service hasn't even responded to my questions.
Today I located a Corvette and Cadillac dealer that agreed to take a look at the vehicle. On the way to the dealer the vehicle started behaving erratically. This was the first occurrence of any abnormal behavior once started. Twice when I stepped on the accelerator the vehicle seemed to shift itself to neutral and the RPMs rapidly climbed, simultaneously all of the door locks opened and closed repeatedly on their own. Additionally, the tach and speedo were moving from max indication to minimum indication in no relation to actual speed or RPM. All warning and/or advisory lights illuminated and the environmental control unit shut off. I could not accelerate during this period and nearly caused an accident trying to get off the road. After approximately 45 seconds the indications returned to normal and I could regain control of the accelerator and the transmission operated normally. I limped it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. The language barrier is a big problem, but they agreed to keep it a few days to run checks.
I see that some of you are having problems fixing similar problems in the USA, I am worried that my situation is hopeless in Europe. Please help me with any suggestions I can give to the dealer. The vehicle is under warranty but it is apparently nearly impossible to get warranty work paid for in Europe. If I can't get this fixed I may have to ship the truck back home at great cost to myself.
Thanks
With a new, fully charged battery, door buzzer, horn and interior lights are working. Turn the key - starter gives one grunt and then everything goes dead - no buzzer, horn, lights, etc.
This is a 1990 R2500 Suburban, hydraulic-assisted, 4-speed manual transmission, two wheel drive, 350 cid. I removed the alternator and starter and had them checked at the local parts store. They test good. Battery cables are not corroded. The vehicle has been operating just fine until this.
I'm a pretty good parts replacer but not a good diagnostician.
As far as the procedure requiring removal of the dipstick in order to get the starter out: That is no rumor, it is fact, and pointed to as necessary in the GM service manual for my 2001 K 1500 Suburban. After ten years, there was enough corrosion that heating the boss (with a Mapp gas torch) where the tube fits into the block was quite necessary. It is a two-person job! I had to reduce the diameter of the new tube in order to get it into the block. I believe that there should have been a designed-in clearance instead of a press or interference fit, especially in light of an o-ring seal being a part of the tube assembly.
-Steve
-Steve
I apologize and understand your frustration. If you would like to email me I would be happy to look into this for you. Please include your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, as well as complete contact information including a good number to reach you. Thank you!
Christina
GM Customer Service
I apologize for you inconvenience. Can you please email me directly and include your VIN and what you are experiencing specifically?
Christina
GM Customer Service
I apologize for your frustration. Can you please email me your VIN? I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I've got a 2001 that's had a couple "not starting" issues in the past.
One issue was the fuel pump was intermittently not providing enough pressure. I hooked up a pressure gauge and left it under the hood to finally figure this out. I could hear the pump run for 3 seconds when the key was turned on but no pressure on the gauge. The filter and regulator had both been replaced previously. Filter is about $8-15, regulator $30-50, Delphi fuel pump ~$300. You have to drop the gas tank to replace the fuel pump.
Another more common issue is the butterfly in the front of the intake gets carbon build up. A quick remedy is to disconnect the air tube to get access. Open the butterfly with your fingers and insert the handle of a large screwdriver to hold the butterfly open. Use a solvent that is sensor safe and a rag to clean the edges of the butterfly and the throat. Use gasoline, injector cleaner or anything to soften the carbon up and wipe it out with the rag. The dealer will charge several hundred $$$ to de-carbon the intake.
This tip came from a Saturday mechanic show and found it's common to see on many makes of vehicles. Usually you'll have surging idle speeds or rough idle before it gets bad enough that it wont start.
It seems like what contributes to this problem is there's a vent tube that dumps crankcase fumes into the manifold right where the cold air comes in through the butterfly and it tends to carbon up and at 70,000+ miles starts to become noticeable and more frequent.
It had also had a bad cam position sensor pigtail once. There was an engine code that kicked. I'd replaced the sensor but later found that a squirrel must have chewed the wires on the back of the motor.
Probably the worst and most expensive reason I've read about is the ECU was intermittently not firing the injectors and had to be replaced.
My '01 Tahoe is having the same problem. Did you find what the problem was? I would REALLY appreciate it. Thank you!
I would like to know how your situation was resoled. Please let me know.
Thank you and have a nice weekend.
On the coldest day of the year in January, a similar thing happened to my '01 Suburban. I left a business with the engine running fine, but when I entered a controlled-access state highway (like an interstate) it would not accelerate normally. I could only attain about 50 mph, and the engine stumbled badly if I tried to open the throttle more. With it running so poorly, I figured it would be best to get off the highway at the first opportunity. As I slowed for the big 180 degree curve, the engine stopped running, and I coasted to a stop on the shoulder of the exit. The engine almost restarted a couple of times but would not run. I called for a tow. Good thing I had a heavy coat, hat, and gloves!
I sprayed a small amount of starting fluid into the intake at home, and the engine fired for as long as the vapor lasted. Like garciar, I also could not hear the telltale sound of the fuel pump from right by the tank when a family member turned on the ignition. I ordered a new pump and filter, and installed them myself. That fixed the problem immediately, and the truck has run without that problem since, including a recent 2000+ mile trip.
Dropping the fuel tank on a Suburban is no job for a mechanical novice.
Because of the method of attachment for the fuel lines (so-called quick-connects) and their locations, in particular the front two, it is obvious that the chassis for my truck was completed (including the fuel system) prior to dropping the body onto the frame. There is simply no way to disconnect the plastic over-tank lines without severing them, so they either have to be cut and replaced or the pump has to be changed with the lines still connected at the front, which is what I did. The process is incredibly difficult. I see why the labor cost is so high for the job.
One note to any D-I-Y mechanic out there: I struggled with the large hose section which connects the metal fuel filler pipe to the plastic tank. It was so stiff that I feared damage to the ($400+) tank's spout from straining to get the hose off, so I cut it with a knife. I figured maybe $20 - 30 at the dealership for the hose, less than a foot long and maybe 2" in diameter. Not so. The hose price at the dealer was $135! This is a GM-only part. I found one online discounted to just under $100. Sheesh! :surprise:
Today the rear air started acting up. The front blows cold, but the rear blows hot...anyone have a fix?
If you do not mind, I'd like to know how many miles were on your Suburban when the problem surfaced? My 2001 model was right about 115,000 when the pump went out, so I can't feel too bad about it.
One thing I also wonder about is the remote start. We just started using it about 2 weeks ago for the first time. Now all of the sudden, my car won't start.
Has anybody ran across a problem like this with their car? I am at my wits end..I am a traveling photographer, and have gotten stranded at a handful of shoots because of this.
Any help is appreciated greatly!
I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with your dealer yet? If not, I would recommend starting there. Please feel free to email me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I look forward to hearing from you. Have a great weekend!
Christina
GM Customer Service
If your engine won't turn over even with a jump and it appears no fuel is getting to the engine, and BEFORE paying your mechanic to replace your fuel pump system (~$900) or anything similar, go to youtube and check out this video that was recently sent to me. Just type in "Stories from the Road, GM Passlock Issue from Hell" I believe this may be the issue with many of these GM vehicles. Hopefully it helps someone.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service