classic negotiating strategy says: let them make the first offer.
why name any number at all? just let each dealer know that you are faxing several others, tell them it is a competitive market and that you expect to pay LESS THAN invoice price. Let them make the first move and play it from there.
Just put a deposit down on 2001 ForesterL. Got a decent, not great, no haggle price. These things are selling FAST here. Anyway, just to see I called another dealer to see if they could beat the quote. Tried to sell me a 2000 they also put aluminum wheels on all L's and Kats Wax Removal (huh?) Just out of curiosity what is this?????
What was the price on your 2001 Forester L? What options does it have? Was it a straight cash deal or did you finance with the dealer or trade in? I'm trying to figure out what the right price for these cars is. Anyone else who bought a 2001 Forrester, I'd love to hear from you too.
I just got back from the dealer where I test drove a Legacy GT Wagon, Outback Wagon with Limited Slip and the 01 Forester L. I had originally thought I'd be getting the GT but my wife liked the Outback better (imagine that). It's really her turn for a car and she can't decide between the Forester and the Outback. Anyway that's beside the point of this post. I'm wondering why Subarus need a Limited Slip Diff. I thought that the cars AWD system acted like an LSD already. After all, the saying goes "from the wheels that slip, to the wheels that grip". If the LSD is that big of an advantage on a Subaru then I'll go ahead and spring for it I suppose. What's the story??
Hi, can someone explain to me how dealer- installed options such as the ski and bike attachments are priced? Edmunds lists invoice and MSRP but dealers quote other numbers (probably depends on how much they charge for installation I suppose). If you buy the options with the vehicle, would one expect to get a better price than buying them later or should I just buy these at a sports store and install them myself?
Any opinions on the roof-vs-back bike carrier would also be appreciated.
oregonman - 21,204 (about 5% over invoice!!!! So not a great price but I won't quibble)Auto, (really wanted 5 spd but don't think it's practical for Bklyn)CD player, and Feature Group II (keyless, sec. upgrade, lugg. cover, tailpipe cover).Plus our lovely 8.25%tax and 116 for new tags. I wanted to stay local and keep it relatively painless. Dealers around here can't keep these in stock. Just saw a black S w/ Premium Package parked up the block from me. For some reason I prefer the black cladding on the L. Good luck to you.
As an avid cyclist who has used both "back" racks and roof top racks, I can say without hesitation the roof rack is by far the best choice. The bicycle is held more securely, especially with the front wheel removed and the fork secured by clamp. Using the Yakima rack made for Subaru works well even if the front wheel is not removed but care is needed attaching the brace as the brace can interfere with cables , waterbottle cages and emblems/paint on the down tube. I currently carry our bicycles inside the wagon when possible (less noise) but have used our rack (Yakima) without incident. Once,on my former SVX, when using a rear rack and driving at speed, I did notice the bikes swaying in the turbulence. This method is just not as satisfactory!
Hop this helps. Feel free to ask if you need further data!
Bimmer: there may be a $500 dealer incentive on Legacys now, so I'd sit back and wait for quotes. They usually won't give up their holdback, so given their cost of $21,342 minus $500 equals $20,842, add back the holdback and you're talking roughly $21.5k, which is a fair price. I wouldn't reveal what you're willing to pay, though.
The AWD system shifts power from front to rear and vice-versa, and it works very effectively. Still, they have open differentials in each axle, front and rear, so each axle can send all the power to one side. So in a worst case scenario (say both right side tires are on ice) two wheels could spin and you wouldn't move forward.
I have this setup and it's never happened to me, but in theory it could. Think about this, though, a FWD car with an open diffy can send power to a single wheel (the path of least resistance). So one wheel off the ground or on ice and you're stuck.
With the rear LSD, power can also shift to the other side. The differential isn't open, so it would lock to shift power to the left, and you'd pull forward.
Shane: sounds like the dealer is giving you a hard time, so I'd pass on the options now, and order them from a wholesaler like QSubaru (via e-mail). You don't pay sales tax or shipping, so it's actually cheaper.
Anyone had any direct experience that was notably bad or good with the dealers in "North-Central-West Jersey"? My nearest dealership is in Flemington, although Somerset, Morristown, Trenton, or Doylestown or Bethlehem, PA, and are all quite tolerable driving distances.
Re 120: juice writes "the invoice is actually 22540"
I got 20776 base invoice from intellichoice for an S "1CC", which I suppose is for a car w/o automatic trans. One of the dealers quoted 22599 for a "1CD", which I suppose is with auto.
This is the webpage of the "Autombile Protection Association", based in Montreal and Toronto.
you have to join (~$50 cdn); this includes two free invoice checks, Lemonaide, etc etc.
I live down the Annopolis Valley, am a member, and it'll still save you bucks! Dexter's is usually unwilling to deal (personal opinion), Valley Subaru in New Minas may do better (I'm not affiliated). Threaten to go to Montreal and pick it up for $500 over invoice (the APA deal).
Good Luck!! We are also getting ready to test drive a Forester S. We went to a dealer on Lorain Rd, in N. Olmsted, last Sat. What a busy place! As soon as "our salesman" found out we just wanted to test drive only...he reluctantly showed as a Forester S. He stayed with us for another 4 mins, and then took off. We were left looking and waiting for him( mind you waiting the whole time looking in every nook in this Forester)for a 1/2 hr. He never returned!!! We seen another saleslady and she said...no problem...I will find him...never seen her again either....we LEFT!!!! We came back 2 hrs., we went inside the showroom...everyone was very busy..."our salesman" walked by and simply said "Oh your back?" He then walked by us two more times...WE LEFT!!!! Talk to the sales manager (same place) tonight...complained(will it help???) Anyways we are going to test drive one this Sat. As far as buying from this place???? How did your test drive go..where did you go??? This place was only our first...we will be going to other places. I hate this process..yes we our doing our homework. Please anyone...do any Honest, FAIR, Subaru dealers exist in the Clev, area?? This is my first time here..sorry I wrote a short novel!
roodog..... sorry to hear about your bad experience with the dealer. It made me appreciate how good i have it here in the Willamette Valley (Oregon).
Two very good dealers in this area are; John and Phil's in Corvallis; and Mark Thomas Motors in Albany. They both were very attentive, gave us plenty of advice, and LOTS of time to test drive several cars (Foresters and Outbacks, manuals and automatics). When it came time to buy, I did all my negotiating by fax and email, and it worked out great ($500 under invoice on a 2000 OB).
Somewhat less helpful, and a little less competitive in price were Capital Subaru in Salem; Romania Subaru in Eugene; and Royal Moore in Hillsboro.
At the bottom of the barrel was Carr Subaru in Beaverton (where, they have a bunch of really dirty used (auction) cars, and told me they would turn back the odometer on a used Outback if i wanted them to..( said they did it all the time......!!).
Even worse was Thomason Subaru in Oregon City, where they tried to hustle me and the sales manager was downright rude.
if anyone is looking for a subaru in western oregon, and wants a real soft-sell and helpful kind of salesman, ask for Larry Lockhart at John and Phil's in Corvallis. (no, he's no relation and i don't get any kickbacks...).
I went to Halpert Subaru/Suzuki on Mentor Ave in Painesville. It was top rated by AAA, and they were really nice. It's a small place, and only one salesman was there, because the other had to leave to take care of his daughter. Anyway, he was really nice.
I test drove an L model, and I liked it. Since it's built on a car platform, the ride is really smooth, and it has incredible pickup. I also test drove the Vitara to compare the two. The Vitara is built on a truck platform and rides like a truck. It a V6 but only has 150 or so horsepower while the Forester is a 4 cylinder, but has 160+ horsepower. Definitely a big difference!
He had a Forester just off the truck that he said he would give me at $300 over invoice.
The salesman said that they and Ellacott Subaru on Warrensville road do a lot of high volume business, so you might want to check them both out. Let me know how it goes and what kind of price they talk! I hate the whole negotiating process, too.
Thanks all for the detailed discussion of the pricing on the Forester. Has anyone seen any 2001 Forester L's with minimal options? Every one I've seen on the lots has at least a tweeter kit (useless to me) and a rear dust deflector, which is worse than useless to me. Those two options only add $140 to the invoice price, so I'll take them if I have to, but ideally I'd find one with just the feature package 2 and nothing else. Anyone seen one configured like that?
Also do you find that if a dealer has to trade with another local dealer for the car taht it affects the pricing? I'm trying to decide what to offer for a cash sale with minimal hassle. I'm thinking about offering $300 over invoice.
I've bought two Subarus from Wentworth Subaru in Portland. I've shopped at all the dealers in the area and once I decided what I wanted I went to Wentworth because when I was just shopping, they were the lowest pressure place. Both times I bought at a $300 - $400 over invoice. I am trying to decide whether to try to buy one of the "below invoice" ads that I often see from Thomasan or Royal Moore, but I always feel like I need a shower after I've been to those dealers.
I went to Royal Moore just to see what was on the lot. I told the guy who approached me flat out that I was not buying today, I just wanted to look at the stickers. I also told him that I was not even looking for me - a friend was going to be the buyer. Still he was on me like white on rice. After I finished looking I said thank you and tried to leave. He and another guy tried to put on the pressure. Everytime I said no and turned to leave, they said something else. I hate to be rude and turn my back on someone, but finally I just said "Look I'm not buying today. I hate to be rude, but I'm leaving." I walked away with them still talking to my back.
Lisa: so, did you get one? Sounds like you should to me
Oregonman: I've seen a few, but with me being on the east coast that doesn't help you. You can always custom order one, and get exactly the options and color that you want.
I wouldn't even make that offer, let them name their price first. I've seen some prices below that, around $100 over. Just let them know you're going to compare their price with other quotes in person and on the web.
I'm going on Saturday to a dealership closer to my house. I'd like to buy from them, so that if I have to have any service done, they're close and they'll know me. So...I'll see what kind of price they want, and if it's the same as the other dealership, I'll get one, otherwise, I'll just buy from the first dealer.
I was just quoted $1249.00 per year for insurance on the Forester. Does this sound accurate? Does anyone know of a better rate? Which insurance agency?
Insurance will vary quite a bit based on your demographic and by the make and model. For example, I pay CNA about $800/year for my Forester in CA, but I'm married and have a clean record.
Shopr around. Some insurance companies classify the Forester as a car, others as a SUV. The latter will tend to be more expensive.
Is there anyone out there that has had any dealings with a Subaru dealer/dealers in the Fairbanks Alaska area? I would like to know what kind of deals they are getting on Outbacks up there. I will be moving there in January of 2001 and am looking to buy. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I will be looking in the Seattle/Tacoma/Bremerton area for an OB with auto, security, CD, Tweeter,cargonet. Anyone know any good dealers in this area. I would also like to know what kind of deals people are getting. Thanks.
My only experience with "wet-side" (I'm in Spokane) dealers was through a brokerage service that went looking for a +/- 97 Outback for me in Feb. Was significantly overpriced compared to similarly aged & equipped cars over here. Don't know about new car prices, but there's plenty of dealers over there to choose from. I can recommend Appleway Subaru in Spokane (go see Keith Moors) if your search brings you this far.
I bought my 00'OB Ltd wagon in Feb at Kirkland Nissan/Subaru. Feb is not the best time to buy an AWD vehicle if one is hoping to get the best deal, but I got mine for about 3.5% over invoice. They had to do a dealer trade as I was pretty specific about what I wanted. I dealt w/the internet mgr there. His name is Ray Pomeranki (sp?). He was fair and easy to deal with. Another dealership that I was impressed with was Tacoma Subaru (they helped in my search for a vehicle) but don't have any names to give. Hope this helps.
Lisa: I'm with KenS on the insurance. I pay under $650 per year, though being married and over 25 help a lot.
I go through Costco's Executive Member program to get Travellers insurance at a hefty discount. Shop around, try Progressive and some on-line quotesmiths.
strvt: Automotive News lists a current dealer incentive for the Legacys at 0-$500, probably based on quotas. I've seen some prices under invoice, but this is regional, so you'll have to shop around. Forester has cut rate financing but it was for 2000 models only.
i have read almost all the response on the topic and no one is really talking about Impreza. i'm thinking about buying an 2000 Impreza 2.5RS and i'm just wondering what should i pay for it. and is it a nice car or not.
I think it's a heck of a car. An excellent base to build upon if you're going racing. This is the same chassis that won the WRC three years in a row, and leads this year's manufacturers cup.
A local no-haggle dealer has a 5 speed sedan for $300 under invoice, and an auto for $303 over invoice. Both are under $19k even with freight.
Con: small back seat, no turbo yet, and no wagon body style offered.
One thing to consider is that the new one arrives this fall or perhaps early winter. That will have a longer wheelbase, and we're supposed to see a turbo option, perhaps even on the wagon.
The price will increase, but they're really addressing all the significant cons I can think of.
I attended an i-Club meet, and here's some of the cars that showed up:
ateixeira, do you know what would the cost for the new 2.5rs turbo? i went to the dealer and they told me that it will be around $25,000 is that correct? oh yeah... i have never seen any photo of the new car yet, do you know where might have some? and if the future Impreza have a longer wheelbase, wouldn't that make the turning wider?
I'd probably add one small "Con" to the Impreza list: No folding rear seat, which seems to me to be an especially notable glitch in a small car that doesn't have a terribly roomy trunk. Of course, if you're coming out of another small car that didn't have a split folding rear seat or have a second roomier vehicle for hauling stuff (or have just never needed to carry something that you couldn't cram into the trunk), then it's a pretty negligible concern.
subardriver, Thanks that was just the info I'm seeking. I calculate your invoice at 25486. So you got it for over $1000 under invoice. Wow. Can you verify that you paid cash with no trade? How long did the process take? And do you have any suggestions for limiting the foot dragging? Did you have to threaten to write the attorny general? One more question? How did you pay - would they take a personal check or did you come armed with a certified check? Thanks in advance foor your help.
Stephen & Hammersley, thanks both for the suggestions. I hear you about being more expensive on this side of the mountains.
I'll check out Tacoma Suburu but if the deal was worth my time, I don't mind going to Spokane either, always a good get-away and nice excuse to take some time off.
I will go this weekend to talk with different dealers and let you know what I discover. Might even do a Pt.Angeles trek.
You may want to check out Hanson's Subaru in the Olympia Capital Auto Mall. They were very helpful but we didn't talk price (as long as you're heading to the Pt. Angeles area).
I'd second Subardriver's advice on Thomason's weekend ad prices. We actually had a good experience buying our 2000 Limited OB and our 97 through Thomason. We were in and out of the dealer within three hours.
I'd have financing ready from somewhere else and not add any other options through them. I'd also avoid trading your car in if at all possible.
Ask for Don or Faith Leith. They're an older husband and wife team and treated us with respect. The other sales people were all kids. They'll try to push the NW Protection Package on you, which as we all know is hogwash. I'd just go in on Friday and say I want this car in the ad with no additional options.
You could also try getting Wentworth to match the price, but I wouldn't count on it. In my Subaru search, I found Carr to be the worst of the Portland dealers. Horrible service too.
I am currently in the market for a 2001 Forester S. Here are the features I would like:
Auto, Feature III, Sound III, Blue Color
I would ike to at least make a downpayment on a car this weekend. I have been told I will have to have the car factory ordered since Blue is impossible to find in VA.
My question is which dealers should I consider?? I had a GREAT test drive experience with Tom G. from Stohlman's but he is the only price I have heard (23,000). Can I do better and where should I talk to??
I am new at this and any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!
There's a small Subaru/Olds dealer in Herndon. I forget the name. It's in the historic old Herndon downtown area. I think the word "Paul" is in the name, but I'm not sure??
Bob's thinking of Paul Brothers Subaru. Paul Brothers bid on my GT wagon purchase but they were rather expensive. Friendly, though. They're a tiny dealership. You can also go to Subaru of America and select Dealer Search to find others.
If you don't mind me offering my unsolicited two cents, it sounds like you're in a hurry. I'm sure you know, but dealers like people in a hurry, because those in hurry are easy to harry It's tough for the consumer to drive a hard bargain when they "have to have it". You can read more about what I'm talking about on the Edmund's home page.
Anyway if you can wait, click on my profile (above, the underlined blue "miksmi") and read about some other purchacing options that'll save you money and time.
Hope this helped you. Please let us know what you end up doing.
Thank you for all of your responses. I am indeed looking for an automatic.
Mike: I didn't mean to sound like I was in a big hurry. I am just resigned to the fact that I will have to factory order a Blue 01 Forester S and that can take 7-9 weeks. Basically, I would like to have a new car by the end of the summer. I was also hoping some places might have a Memorial Day sale or something.
Again, thanks for all the help. I'll check out a few of the dealers that were listed.
Hi Tev, Memorial Day sales are a good thing; haven't noticed any Subaru ads, anyone else? I'm a big fan of farming out the bidding process to CarBargains or CarOrder. Did you have a chance to check out CarBargains that I mentioned in my profile miksmi? They're in DC so it's easy to verify they're legitimate.
Comments
classic negotiating strategy says: let them make the first offer.
why name any number at all? just let each dealer know that you are faxing several others, tell them it is a competitive market and that you expect to pay LESS THAN invoice price. Let them make the first move and play it from there.
good luck!
I'd appreciate any advice!
Thanks
Anyway that's beside the point of this post. I'm wondering why Subarus need a Limited Slip Diff. I thought that the cars AWD system acted like an LSD already. After all, the saying goes "from the wheels that slip, to the wheels that grip".
If the LSD is that big of an advantage on a Subaru then I'll go ahead and spring for it I suppose. What's the story??
installed options such as the ski and bike
attachments are priced? Edmunds lists
invoice and MSRP but dealers quote
other numbers (probably depends on how
much they charge for installation I suppose).
If you buy the options with the vehicle,
would one expect to get a better price
than buying them later or should I just
buy these at a sports store and install
them myself?
Any opinions on the roof-vs-back bike
carrier would also be appreciated.
Thanks.
Good luck to you.
Hop this helps. Feel free to ask if you need further data!
Don
The AWD system shifts power from front to rear and vice-versa, and it works very effectively. Still, they have open differentials in each axle, front and rear, so each axle can send all the power to one side. So in a worst case scenario (say both right side tires are on ice) two wheels could spin and you wouldn't move forward.
I have this setup and it's never happened to me, but in theory it could. Think about this, though, a FWD car with an open diffy can send power to a single wheel (the path of least resistance). So one wheel off the ground or on ice and you're stuck.
With the rear LSD, power can also shift to the other side. The differential isn't open, so it would lock to shift power to the left, and you'd pull forward.
Shane: sounds like the dealer is giving you a hard time, so I'd pass on the options now, and order them from a wholesaler like QSubaru (via e-mail). You don't pay sales tax or shipping, so it's actually cheaper.
-juice
Many thanks in advance . .
I'd take the 22450 quote, especially since they're all so close together. I doubt you'll find one that will be significantly lower than that.
That's $90 under "invoice".
-juice
"the invoice is actually 22540"
I got 20776 base invoice from intellichoice for
an S "1CC", which I suppose is for a car w/o
automatic trans. One of the dealers quoted
22599 for a "1CD", which I suppose is with auto.
juice, how did you arrive at 22540?
Regards...
When you say "invoice", dealers aren't subtracting their holdback, it's their only profit when they're selling at or below invoice regularly.
-juice
http://www.apa.ca/apa_eng/home_en.htm
This is the webpage of the "Autombile Protection Association", based in Montreal and Toronto.
you have to join (~$50 cdn); this includes two free invoice checks, Lemonaide, etc etc.
I live down the Annopolis Valley, am a member, and it'll still save you bucks! Dexter's is usually unwilling to deal (personal opinion), Valley Subaru in New Minas may do better (I'm not affiliated). Threaten to go to Montreal and pick it up for $500 over invoice (the APA deal).
Two very good dealers in this area are; John and Phil's in Corvallis; and Mark Thomas Motors in Albany. They both were very attentive, gave us plenty of advice, and LOTS of time to test drive several cars (Foresters and Outbacks, manuals and automatics). When it came time to buy, I did all my negotiating by fax and email, and it worked out great ($500 under invoice on a 2000 OB).
Somewhat less helpful, and a little less competitive in price were Capital Subaru in Salem; Romania Subaru in Eugene; and Royal Moore in Hillsboro.
At the bottom of the barrel was Carr Subaru in Beaverton (where, they have a bunch of really dirty used (auction) cars, and told me they would turn back the odometer on a used Outback if i wanted them to..( said they did it all the time......!!).
Even worse was Thomason Subaru in Oregon City, where they tried to hustle me and the sales manager was downright rude.
if anyone is looking for a subaru in western oregon, and wants a real soft-sell and helpful kind of salesman, ask for Larry Lockhart at John and Phil's in Corvallis. (no, he's no relation and i don't get any kickbacks...).
That odometer talk is scary. I believe there is a seal that breaks if it's tampered with. What morons.
-juice
I went to Halpert Subaru/Suzuki on Mentor Ave in Painesville. It was top rated by AAA, and they were really nice. It's a small place, and only one salesman was there, because the other had to leave to take care of his daughter. Anyway, he was really nice.
I test drove an L model, and I liked it. Since it's built on a car platform, the ride is really smooth, and it has incredible pickup. I also test drove the Vitara to compare the two. The Vitara is built on a truck platform and rides like a truck. It a V6 but only has 150 or so horsepower while the Forester is a 4 cylinder, but has 160+ horsepower. Definitely a big difference!
He had a Forester just off the truck that he said he would give me at $300 over invoice.
The salesman said that they and Ellacott Subaru on Warrensville road do a lot of high volume business, so you might want to check them both out. Let me know how it goes and what kind of price they talk! I hate the whole negotiating process, too.
Also do you find that if a dealer has to trade with another local dealer for the car taht it affects the pricing? I'm trying to decide what to offer for a cash sale with minimal hassle. I'm thinking about offering $300 over invoice.
I went to Royal Moore just to see what was on the lot. I told the guy who approached me flat out that I was not buying today, I just wanted to look at the stickers. I also told him that I was not even looking for me - a friend was going to be the buyer. Still he was on me like white on rice. After I finished looking I said thank you and tried to leave. He and another guy tried to put on the pressure. Everytime I said no and turned to leave, they said something else. I hate to be rude and turn my back on someone, but finally I just said "Look I'm not buying today. I hate to be rude, but I'm leaving." I walked away with them still talking to my back.
Oregonman: I've seen a few, but with me being on the east coast that doesn't help you. You can always custom order one, and get exactly the options and color that you want.
I wouldn't even make that offer, let them name their price first. I've seen some prices below that, around $100 over. Just let them know you're going to compare their price with other quotes in person and on the web.
-juice
I'm going on Saturday to a dealership closer to my house. I'd like to buy from them, so that if I have to have any service done, they're close and they'll know me. So...I'll see what kind of price they want, and if it's the same as the other dealership, I'll get one, otherwise, I'll just buy from the first dealer.
Insurance will vary quite a bit based on your demographic and by the make and model. For example, I pay CNA about $800/year for my Forester in CA, but I'm married and have a clean record.
Shopr around. Some insurance companies classify the Forester as a car, others as a SUV. The latter will tend to be more expensive.
Ed
Stephen
I go through Costco's Executive Member program to get Travellers insurance at a hefty discount. Shop around, try Progressive and some on-line quotesmiths.
strvt: Automotive News lists a current dealer incentive for the Legacys at 0-$500, probably based on quotas. I've seen some prices under invoice, but this is regional, so you'll have to shop around. Forester has cut rate financing but it was for 2000 models only.
-juice
A local no-haggle dealer has a 5 speed sedan for $300 under invoice, and an auto for $303 over invoice. Both are under $19k even with freight.
Here's my thoughts:
Pro: steering, handling, braking, torque, style, traction, rear LSD, moonroof, seats, leather wheel/shift knob.
Con: small back seat, no turbo yet, and no wagon body style offered.
One thing to consider is that the new one arrives this fall or perhaps early winter. That will have a longer wheelbase, and we're supposed to see a turbo option, perhaps even on the wagon.
The price will increase, but they're really addressing all the significant cons I can think of.
I attended an i-Club meet, and here's some of the cars that showed up:
http://thejuiceman.homepage.com/iclub.html
Get yours and send me a photo, and you'll be up there too! Seriously, they're fun cars with loyal owners.
-juice
http://www.egr.unlv.edu/~simon/2.5RS/edit/spy.html
$25k sounds about right. Just keep in mind the performance levels we're talking about. 60 mph in the mid 5's. Nothing at that price can touch it.
Also, the RS may become the base version, so you can imagine how well equipped the entire line will be. AWD, ABS, moonroof, power everything standard.
The longer wheelbase may indeed affect the quickness and directness of the steering, and perhaps add weight. We'll have to wait an see how much.
The wagon would address texsubaru's point, but everyone here knows I'm a wagon fan.
-juice
Thanks that was just the info I'm seeking. I calculate your invoice at 25486. So you got it for over $1000 under invoice. Wow. Can you verify that you paid cash with no trade? How long did the process take? And do you have any suggestions for limiting the foot dragging? Did you have to threaten to write the attorny general? One more question? How did you pay - would they take a personal check or did you come armed with a certified check? Thanks in advance foor your help.
I'll check out Tacoma Suburu but if the deal was worth my time, I don't mind going to Spokane either, always a good get-away and nice excuse to take some time off.
I will go this weekend to talk with different dealers and let you know what I discover. Might even do a Pt.Angeles trek.
Stephen
Automotive News listed a dealer incentive for some 2000 models, but I guess it's regional.
-juice
I'd second Subardriver's advice on Thomason's weekend ad prices. We actually had a good experience buying our 2000 Limited OB and our 97 through Thomason. We were in and out of the dealer within three hours.
I'd have financing ready from somewhere else and not add any other options through them. I'd also avoid trading your car in if at all possible.
Ask for Don or Faith Leith. They're an older husband and wife team and treated us with respect. The other sales people were all kids. They'll try to push the NW Protection Package on you, which as we all know is hogwash. I'd just go in on Friday and say I want this car in the ad with no additional options.
You could also try getting Wentworth to match the price, but I wouldn't count on it. In my Subaru search, I found Carr to be the worst of the Portland dealers. Horrible service too.
I am currently in the market for a 2001 Forester S. Here are the features I would like:
Auto, Feature III, Sound III, Blue Color
I would ike to at least make a downpayment on a car this weekend. I have been told I will have to have the car factory ordered since Blue is impossible to find in VA.
My question is which dealers should I consider?? I had a GREAT test drive experience with Tom G. from Stohlman's but he is the only price I have heard (23,000). Can I do better and where should I talk to??
I am new at this and any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!
Tev
Bob
Price sounds about right. Fitzgerald is in Rockville near White Flint, and they lists these no-haggle prices (none are blue, however):
Manuals: Silver 22647
White 23195
Autos: Silver 23614
Black 24259
Red 23703
Here's the URL:
http://www.fitzgeraldautomall.com/
The site lists specifics on options. It's the model in highest demand, so prices are above invoice. Margins on L's are smaller.
I'd avoid Farrish Subaru. Bait and switch, not pleasant. You may indeed have to order one.
-juice
Bob's thinking of Paul Brothers Subaru. Paul Brothers bid on my GT wagon purchase but they were rather expensive. Friendly, though. They're a tiny dealership. You can also go to Subaru of America and select Dealer Search to find others.
If you don't mind me offering my unsolicited two cents, it sounds like you're in a hurry. I'm sure you know, but dealers like people in a hurry, because those in hurry are easy to harry
Anyway if you can wait, click on my profile (above, the underlined blue "miksmi") and read about some other purchacing options that'll save you money and time.
Hope this helped you. Please let us know what you end up doing.
..Mike Smith . Silver Spring MD
..Mike
Mike: I didn't mean to sound like I was in a big hurry. I am just resigned to the fact that I will have to factory order a Blue 01 Forester S and that can take 7-9 weeks. Basically, I would like to have a new car by the end of the summer. I was also hoping some places might have a Memorial Day sale or something.
Again, thanks for all the help. I'll check out a few of the dealers that were listed.
Tev
Good hunting!
..Mike
..Mike