By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The headlights won't shut off!
I had to disconnect the battery so it won't run down overnight. They obviously hooked something back up incorrectly. Since my wife drives this one, it's going to be a looooong weekend until I can get it taken care of by the guilty party.
With the outrageous price that Helms gets for the shop manuals, I'm without a wiring diagram. Anyone have any suggestions?
Concerning the Helms manuals are there any of the volumes in the set that you would consider more helpful? We would be interested in getting individual volumes for our Legacy GT wagon, but the Helms site does not describe what is in each volume.
Just got back up from my garage. Your suggestion worked! My wife can now drive during daylight hours. I pulled the #28, 20 amp "lighting", fuse. The turn signals, brake lights, headlights and interior lights still work. The only thing that this fuse seems to affect are the front and rear running lights. That kills the ability to drive at night, even though the headlights work. The lower illumination filiments in the red ones in the rear and in the front directionals are out.
By the way, what didn't shut off were the parking and tail lights, not the headlights as I had previously posted. Thanks again.
vehicle but when I bought my 2001 Forester,
the salesperson pointed out the Parking Lights
switch on top of the steering wheel and mentioned
that the lights won't go out when you turn off
the ignition and that it sometimes gets
accidentally turned on when the vehicle gets
serviced. My friend has a 2K Outback and he
was swearing up a storm based on the same
description you gave (had to disconnect battery
too) until I told him about the switch and he
went to check (sure enough!).
Ok, now a question. What should the PSI be on
the front/back wheels of a 2001 Forester S (prem
pkg)? The door plate says something like 29/35
but the service guy told me today that he
wouldn't set any of them below 35 (he advised
having them all at 35).
Thanks.
Thanks, but I'm pretty sure my '96 Legacy GT hasn't got such a switch. I'll check though.
Re. tire pressure...I'd stick with the psi that Subaru (the manufacturer, not the the service guy)specifies on the door jamb. (For safety, handling, proper tire wear and ride comfort)
I've found that the "recommended" PSI on the Forester is probably designed to give a comfortable ride at the expense of performance. When I set my tires to what is indicated on the door jamb, I noticed that cornering became slower and my tires would squeal with modest turns -- yuck.
I've found that 33/31 is a pretty good setting for all around performance. Handling improves while the ride is still very comfortable. Also, my Yokos have been holding up very well. I have 42K miles on them and they're just about ready to be replaced. Not bad for tires with a mediocre treadwear rating.
The best thing to do is experiment with several settings and find what works best for you. Some of my friends use 32 all around. Others go up as high as 35. It all depends on your driving style and needs. You're probably okay as long as you keep them within a reasonable range of 26-36psi -- that's still well below the max pressure indicated on the sidewall of the Yokos.
The important thing is to keep in mind that tire pressures alter the way your vehicle performs. Just drive a little more cautiously after you've gone to a new setting.
So, are you enjoying your new Forester?
Ken
If that switch is on, turn it off and put your fuse back in.
-Colin
shndvn:
Colin, Shane, Nancy...you folks were great. I've owned this vehicle for four years and never glanced at that "position light switch" on the top of the steering column. It's in the same location that the 4-way hazard warning switch was on several vehicles I've owned. So both my wife and I, never having had the need to use the switch, just never gave it a second thought. Now that I have reread the applicable section of my owner's manual, it is quite clear. It says:
"The position light switch operates regardless of the ignition switch position. Push the rear end of the position light switch to turn on the position lights, tail lights and license place lights. To turn off the position lights, push the front end of the position light switch. Avoid leaving these lights on for a long time because that will run down the battery."
It seems that the word "position" refers to where your vehicle is parked, so that others can see you and determine your position. It is interesting that the switch acts somewhat like a non-flashing hazard warning light switch.
I guess the guys in the body shop just tried everything and didn't reset the one switch. Thanks all.
PNAZ
everything and didn't reset the one switch.
Actually what often happens is that the switch gets toggled while wiping down the column. If they cleaned the whole interior for you, bully for them.
-Colin
Also, my car came with a faulty oxygen sensor, which was replaced within two weeks. I still get the rotten egg smell out the exhaust. What is going on here?
Hope you can give me some insight. Thanks.
Ross
I've been going over my new GT wagon (300 miles) with a fine tooth comb... I am totally obsessed with details. Everything looks and works perfectly other than it seems to be about 1/2 to 5/8 inch lower on the drivers side front. Air pressure is same in all 4 tires and I measured on a level surface. I took the measurement both at the top of the wheel well opening and bottom of the leading edge of the door. It handles great with no pull or drift. Seems like it is a spring problem. Any ideas? I am going to call the dealer tomorrow to get it checked but wonder if they wont tell me it is within tolerance.
Love this GT just wish it was level.
Bitman
Sheaster: all I can tell you is that the smell faded in my Forester. It was the only "new car smell" I've ever experienced that I didn't like.
PNAZ: corroded hinges don't sound like a good start for a MY2000 vehicle. Complain to the dealer, perhaps in writing with a CC to SoA. At a minimum, get them to clean them and offer a lifetime warranty.
Subaru recommends 29/26 front/rear, but this was too low for my driving style. The tires would plow and whine around turns. I went to 33/33 and handling improved without a noticeable difference in ride. I also run 33/33 on my new tires.
Ken: you got 42k out of the original Yokos? Wow. I thought you had purchased a new set already, were they just not mounted yet?
Finally, don't pay MSRP for the shop manuals. Don't pay retail for any OE Subaru stuff, actually. Before you buy at least get a quote from Darlene. It'll save you some cash.
-juice
My '00 Forester windshield cracked over the weekend. I believe it was caused by a rock or hale as it was pouring at the time. The crack is about 6" long stemmed from the bottom and it is not in a prominent position.
My questions are
1) Does the Subaru warranty cover the windshield?
2) Does auto insurance cover it?
3) If repaired, can the replacement be as good as the new one?
Thanks for your comments and I thought to get your opinions first before contacting anyone.
writingmachine
Replacements are usually fully covered by insurance companies. If it was just a chip, many would pay to fill it in, because it saves the insurance company money in the long run.
Usually the windshields are replaced with OEM parts - ie. they are identical to the original. The thing to watch for is the seal they put back on. If the place you're getting it repaired at doesn't do a good job, then the seal will stick out a bit from the frame, and anyone can tell the windshield was replaced.
ash
I was complaining a bit ago (I think in the main topic) that Subaru windshields suck. Mine is heavily pitted...
-Colin
Ah, you caught me on that one. I did buy a new set of Yokos last fall because the tread on my original pair were well past the half-way mark and I was planning on going snowboarding several times.
I had them installed just for a couple months and then switched back to my original set towards the end of the season. I'm glad I did -- I hit several R-2 conditions last season.
It was a toss up between getting snow tires and another set. I went with the latter because I really only drive in snow a few times a year.
I'll probably ride out my original pair through the fall and then go back to the new set. I'll finally have some room in my garage!
-juice
Car dealers usually do not do windshield replacements. They will most likely take it to an automotive glass specialist. Your insurance company could also recommend some reliable automotive glass specialists in your area.
Vince
(FYI, it happened at night. On a freeway with four lanes in one direction... a minivan and I were staggered in the left two lanes, both cruising at about 75. All of sudden, some idiot in a big truck comes screaming down the left lane. Instead of passing the minivan on the right or waiting for it to move to the right, the idiot tailgates the minivan and decides to pass on the left SHOULDER, kicking up dirt and rocks in the process. The truck must've been doing about 90. I swear, if he/she had lost control and flipped over, I wouldn't have wasted my time calling an ambulance. Charles Darwin would've been proud.)
Definitely something you want to claim through your insurance policy.
-- ash
In any case, the car is cooler inside and looks great with the tinted windows - three people were interested in the car when my wife stopped for gas on the way home from the garage!
MikeF
Was that a heated windshield you replaced it with? I didn't know there were aftermarket ones you could buy.
ash
Yes, it is a heated windshield, identical to the original except for the green sunshade (my wife almost had them change the windshield again when see first saw that green band :-) We're starting to get used to it now.
The glass company had to order in the windshield from Toronto. It is a 'Carlex' brand (just checked to make sure I get the name right this time). If you want the part numbers, etc, let me know and I can get them off the windshield.
MikeF
from Subaru is $359.95.
I don't know where you've been checking, but I'd try again.
FYI part number is 65010AE13BNI
If it's an OB LTD the part number is different but the price is the same.
Darlene
I am just looking into tinting my Forester - what brand did you get? Also I am trying to decide on how dark of a tint to get - what % did you use?
Regarding message #463
My 00 Outback Limited (auto) makes a single clicking noise (very audible) when shifting about 40% of the time. I think it usually is from 2nd to 3rd, but it also occurs from 1st to 2nd. My dealer acknowledged the noise (the service advisor said it was the first time he had heard the noise) and the service invoice says something like "noted clicking noise when transmission shifting... no performance problems at this time."
Other folks have mentioned this noise in previous posts. I can remember at least three other people who have mentioned it. I haven't heard any specific causes (or solutions) for this noise.
My auto policy allows me to repair (for free) or replace it with $100 deductible. I could not repair mine because the crack is longer than the width of a Dollar bill (6 inches).
Darlene is right about glass companies, which offer better prices than dealers (after all dealers hire auto glass company to install them anyway)
My whole experience with Safelite was pleasant. I called the customer service yesterday, and they installed for me today. They installed with the original parts and the invoice looks like this:
Part sub total 269.7
(250.7 glass + 19 kit):
Labor:40
sub total 309.7
Sales tax: 12.14
Deductible: 100
Insurance total: 221.84
writingmachine
I shipped my new Outback to Hawaii, and the first day here the AT OIL TEMP light started blinking. The local guys who have the service contract (there is no Subaru dealer on my island!) tell me they don't have the tool to diagnose the AT system, and will have to ship it in from another island.
There's no fluid problems.....I assume it's something electrical. Anybody got any ideas? I get the feeling the local mechanics are clueless. Did I read somewhere that the system can be reset by disconnecting the battery?
thanks,
Trioxys
-- ash
I'm asking because even if you do have a low deductible, it isn't necessarily a bad idea to order an OE windshield at a discount. You get OE quality, and your insurance rates stay down.
My wife's cracked, and they tried to fix it, but it spread the crack. Then they just replaced it. Worth a shot, I guess.
Tints: I have a 35% SolarGard tint. I recommend that or darker (20% looks best, IMO). I love it - it reduces glare and the A/C works like a champ. Plus it look cool.
-juice
The tint I used is SolarGard. I have 35% on the driver and passenger doors, and I think 20% on the rest of the car. The garage also tinted another Outback, putting 20% all around except for the driver and passenger windows, which were left untinted.
I did not research the various makes so I do not know which brand is better. I also have not driven the car at night since the tinting, so I can't comment on how it will work then. I will say that I find my eyes are quite sensitive to light and I often wear Serengeti, or similar style, light brown sunglasses, even in light drizzle or fog. Thus, the tinted windows are great for me as they cut down alot of glare from the sides.
The best thing you can do is have a look at a few different combinations if you can and see what works best for you.
Good luck!
MikeF
Jerry
My '99 Forester "S" started making a "rr-rr-rr-rr-rr" noise from the rear at about 15,000 miles (I'm now at almost 40K). Sounded like noisy tires; I asked my dealer to check rear alignment at the 15K service. They said the alignment was OK and rotated the tires. The noise has remained, even after I've rotated the tires 2 more times. So far I've chalked it up to noisy tires. Are the OEM Geolandar H/Ts noisy? - Or is that the sound of rear bearings going bad? I'd appreciate hearing what others have found out.
John
Rear bearings to make a roaring type noise that gets louder with speed but can be drowned out by road or exhaust noise.
-Colin
I'm considering a Subaru Legacy L Wagon, and I was wondering how Subarus do in terms of maintenance and reliability. And, I was wondering if any of you could help me with this. I know that consumer digest gives all Subarus "more than average" or the second highest position.
Thanks
Jeff
Welcome to "Subaru Crew".
By reviewing the boards, you'll get an excellent idea of how Subaru owners view their vehicles. I find the vast array of information incredible! And, unlike many other sites, the responses are almost uniformly "civil". Truly a grown-up group!
Don
Carpoint.msn.com has pretty good compilation summaries of the reliability of used cars as long as they are at least 2-3 years old. Looks like recent Legacy Wagons are quite reliable, but going back to '94 if they had the air suspension that's a problem. (It was on all Subarus with it... neat but big $$$ to fix.) It's really cool because they even tell you the average parts and labor cost. Looks like '94 also had some minor engine repairs here's the detail as a sample:
"Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Coolant Temperature Sensor and the Knock Sensor. Failure of the Coolant Temperature Sensor may prevent the vehicle from starting.
The cost to repair the Coolant Temperature Sensor is estimated * at $43.05 for parts and $52.00 for labor.
The cost to repair the Knock Sensor is estimated * at $45.70 for parts and $45.50 for labor."
Pretty neat, eh? Besides that, long term Subaru issues are head gaskets (pretty rare these days) and wheel bearings (which might be caused by improper repair / replacement). Other than that, Subarus are quite reliable as a whole.
-Colin
I heard about the auto leveling thing on older subarus from the dealer, he said that they got rid of that, so reliability should be slightly up. And I heard people saying that sensors are quite common to replacement. But isn't the knock sensor a synonym to detonation sensor and doesn't detonation mean kaboom?
The other thing I heard is that they're expensive to repair. Or-i'm already paying a lot for my VW 1987 fox GL when something needs repair(not often at all).
cherrios
Jeff
I've really appreciated being able to read all the personal experience comments from Subaru owners. I'm on the virge of buying a 2000 Forrester, and am wondering if anyone can tell me about the expected repair bills. The consumer report I have listed the Legacy as very good reliabilty - but the average repair bill was much higher than say Toyota's. There was no listing for the Forrester..
I just test drove one for the first time today and loved the handling. My other choice was a Toyota Sienna van - but I'm not sure i need all that room - and the Forrester was so much more fun to drive. And my kids thought it was fantastic...
Also - Can any one tell me how the Subaru stand up to rust. I seem to recall seeing a bunch of older rusting Subarus in the past - before I was really considering them. Is this because they rust early, or is it because they last a long time??
Any comments would be very helpful.
...Sleepless in Toronto...
Questions came in from 2 diff. callers re: What car would be a good replacement for their existing vehicles... SOA would be proud. (Are they funding the show or NPR?) Anyway, since my wife and I bought our wintergreen automatic last month, we have received nothing but compliments and now this....I Love This Car!!
Chris
She pulled into our garage and placed the AT into park. As she was getting out of the vehicle, the thing started rolling a bit. So, she pulled the e-brake.
After she told me of this, I went out there and released the e-brake. I was very surprised to be able to roll the wagon at least a foot or so in both directions.
Took it for a drive and it's shifting just fine. All gears work. Parked it again - it went into park correctly this time. Repeated a couple of more times last night and again everything was still fine.
Checked all the fluids and everything is where it should be. (Found my tires to be at 39psi from the dealer; adjusted them to about 33 for now.)
I'll be keeping a close eye on things for the next few days, but I think it was just a fluke.
On a side note, when do you guys recommend putting on the first coat of wax? I noticed our OB was built in May '00 (from inside the door jamb).
-Brian
A foot in each direction sounds a little excessive, but it's normal to have some play in ATs when it's in park. I'd have a dealer look at it if it persists.
As for the wax, it's never too early. Virtually all new cars already come with their clearcoat cured so they're ready to be waxed right away. Usually the dealer only puts a very thin quick wax when they prep you vehicle.
Buy a high quality wax and apply it to your vehicle right after a wash to keep it looking new.
Bitman