SOA won't say what it is, but they do. They recommend that the original oil be left in for the full 3000 miles, but let's be honest... these engines are fired on the assembly line and probably run-in.
I don't think it will make a difference whether or not you keep the original oil in or change it early. IMO it also won't matter on a stock engine if you use synthetic or mineral oil, what matters is how often you change that filter.
Actually my 99RS owner's manual shows a little temperature gauge for recommended oils and 5w30 inhabits a small band, below 60F IIRC. From 0F to 100F it recommends 10w30. It goes on to list a whole variety of alternate weights depending on your local conditions (but doesn't recommend temp ranges), all the way up to 20w50 (phoenix right about now, I'd say).
I used 5w30 for one oil change last winter and had a whole lot more valvetrain noise at cold start. Nothing I was mechanically worried about, but nevertheless I run 10w30 instead.
I dug out my old fluid mechanics textbook, and found some oil viscosity data. Here's a chart that shows the viscosity of 5W-30 and 10W-30 over the range of ambient temperatures most of us would ever expect to encounter:
As shown, 5W-30 should be better at low temperatures (less viscous for easier starting), but both oils are about the same as you get in the 60-100 F range. By the time an engine warms up to operating temperature, the differences between 5W-30 and 10W-30 are slim. Were you to go all the way up to 210 F (where the "30" rating is measured), the two oils would have the same viscosity.
Colin, it's curious you got more noise out of a cold start with 5W-30 than 10W-30 -- I would have expected the opposite. When I skied a lot in Vermont, where it would routinely be -15F in the mornings, I had a hard time starting and lots of bearing "rap" with 10W-30 (this was in a Honda Civic). The engine started easier and sounded a little healthier with 5W-30. Either way, you will hear some pretty scary engine sounds when it's that cold . . . . oil starts to resemble molasses at those temps!
Any comments on the Fram Double Guard oil filters? It has teflon suspended in the filter media, and is designed to release it slowly over the course of 3,000 miles. The teflon can pass through the filter, while the dirt is trapped.
My 00 OB is ready for it's first 3,000 mile oil change, and I was considering trying one of these filters. By the way, they cost around $8.
That makes perfect sense -- I hadn't thought of that. Some engine and oil filter designs let more oil drain into the sump than others, which may also be a factor.
I just got some scratches fixed on the hood of my 2000 OB and had the pleasure to talk to the expert who was doing it. He gave some advice that was not previously mentioned here/I didn't know, so I thought I'd pass it on. 1. Some scratches can be completely filled. Other's can't, so they will always show to some extent. 2. Completely painting the hood is not necessarily the best option. First of all, it apparently voids the paint warranty. Other parts can be repainted without affecting the warranty, but not the hood. Second, the body shops do not as good a job as the robots in the factory. So you may end up with some areas that are less well painted than others. Five or ten years down the road, you will be able to see which areas are the bad ones. The touch-up person warrants his job for 15 years, a body shop only for 90 days! 3. Whenever you get a scratch or chip, seal it off ASAP. Put some touch-up paint on top of the scratch, but this is by far not as important as sealing it off with either nail polish or superglue. That protects the metal body from corroding as well as the metal particles in the paint. They can corrode too. If you look at cars that are a few years old, you will often see pea to dime-size spots that just look different, at some the paint even comes off. This is allegedly due to oxidation of the metal particles in the paint.
He gave me some more advice on how to clean the car, but that I am going to put in the "Cleaning" section.
About a month ago, while in a parking garage, I accidently got a little "too close" to another car, and so my front bumper on the left corner has 3-4 blackish lines showing where the scratch came from. To fix this, would this require replacing the whole bumper or can it be touched up with some of that paintless solution as mentioned elsewhere in this forum? What do people recommend?
Also...regarding oil changes, I used to own a Plymouth Acclaim and I loyally changed my oil every 3,000 miles. Should it be the same for the Forester?
guxx, are the blackish lines from paint that rubbed off from the other car, or is it the Forester's bumper plastic showing? Usually the moving car donates its paint to the non-moving car, but not always. Anyway, if it's blackish paint, you should be able to buff it off with wax. If it's scratched through to the plastic and the scratches are small, you can probably just use touchup paint to fill them in. With practice, I've been able to fill in scratches near-perfectly with standard touchup paint.
For oil changes, I stick to the service intervals recommended in the owner's manual. If they say 7500 mile oil changes, that's what I do. Under severe conditions (high heat, dusty roads, lots of stop and go driving) you might want to do it every 5000 miles. I think 3000 mile intervals are overkill -- it's been used as a marketing ploy in recent years, but most experts agree that it's unneccesary to change the oil that often.
The blackish marks I think are the material underneath the bumper. I have the new gold color, and so the bumper is gold but these marks give it a black look there.
So touchup paint, huh? Is this something I can easily do myself, (keeping in mind I haven't done it before)? Where do I get the paint from? Or is it simpler and cheaper to have it done at the Subaru place? Would they charge alot?
Well, it's not always that easy, especially if teh scratch is complicated. You might want to let someone at the Subaru dealer handle it. I would feel comfortable working on a scratch say, up to 1/8 inch wide by 1/2-3/4 inch long. Anything bigger than that might be tough (the narrower the scratch, the better). Basically, the touchup tubes you get from Subaru go on like nail polish (not that I use nail polish!) -- you use a small brush to apply it. I generally use the brush to "dip" the paint into the scratch rather than brushing it in. The paint tends to flow into the scratch pretty well. Just don't put too much paint on the brush -- you can always add more later, but it sucks if the paint drips all over the place. You will probably need two coats of the gold to cover up the black and fill in the scratch correctly (based on what it took to fix a chip in the lower titanium cladding on my OB).
I have no idea what a dealer would charge to fix the scratches, but it shouldn't be more than $50 or so.
I learned this tip for paint touch-up from a detailer. Instead of using the brush from the tube of touch-up paint, you should up the tip from a cardboard match. Use the end of the match and dip that into the touch-up tube. This way the paint is easier to put on and will be more uniform. Sometimes the brush will pick up too much paint and it is difficult to apply in a even fashion. I have found that it works pretty well, it is a neat trick. It takes a little more time, but the results should be better.
Hi, I took my 2001 Forester in for its first oil change (3K) a couple weeks ago and had the dealer do a wheel alignment because the steering wheel was tilted clockwise about 10 degrees. Now it seems to have the same problem if the last turn I did was to the right (ie. after the turn, the wheel is tilted clockwise even when going straight). However, if the last turn I did was to the left, the wheel seems more or less fine (ie. straight when it should be). Are there any technical terms/phrases/parts I can use when describing this to the dealer?
Ken, the dealer had the tires set to 40 psi / 38 psi (hot/cold measurements) so I lowered it to 35. I'll lower it again in a little while to probably 33 (what confuses me though is how to know what the right pressure is for the front vs the back - I don't like the trial&error method .
Stick close to the differential noted on the trim tag because it is based on weight distribution. For example, since my Impreza says 32/29 I might run 34/32 or thereabouts.
I have a 2001 S Premier Forester. I love it except for the brakes which lose braking power upon gradual braking and seem to "sink". I have taken it to the dealer 3 times and they have said that this type of braking for a subaru is "normal". I have strong legs ( I am a runner) and the amount of pressure necessary to bring the car to a stop seems excessive. any comments?
I totally agree, and in fact plan to raise the issue at my 3K service (I have a 2000 OB). I'm confident that the car can be made to stop, but I worry about when someone unfamiliar with the braking performance (such as my shorter-legged wife) drives the car - I need to remind her to be firm.
I noticed the same sensation of my 00' OB. It took a little getting used to. The reason for this as I understand it is due to the dual stage set-up on the brakes. I believe this is what the dealer meant by "normal for a Subaru". It does not hinder braking. I've had the opportunity to really test the brakes a couple of times. Actually you'll find a lot of comments about this, especially from new Subaru owners. I hope this helps your comfort level somewhat.
Stephen's right on. If you really hate it, you can install an older single-stage booster (and you'll probably need the older master cylinder too) from a pre 96 or 97 Subaru.
Don't underestimate the value of bleeding the brakes too, give that a try. The pedal will be firmer and travel less on pure fluid.
Another thing you can do is install stainless steel braided brake lines... for the Impreza family it's about $125 for the set and takes less than 2 hours to install, plus maybe another hour to bleed the brakes. I'm pretty happy with mine, but it's a fairly subtle change compared to going with a single stage booster.
Hmmm. Don't know what's up with the steering wheel. Steering wheels can be set off-center and readjusted pretty easily by turning some screws. I think it's best to try and describe what happens rather than translate that into technical terms.
As for the tires, Colin makes a good point. Keep the ratio the same but at a higher pressure. If that's confusing, you can always start with even front and back, drive for a little until you get used to it and then adjust either one a little (+/- 2psi) to see what it does.
Shane: the technical term for your steering problem is "it's messed up".
Have the dealer look at it again. It should be easy to describe since you can reproduce the problem.
Amanda/Martin: the new brakes are designed that way so it's smooth coming to a stop when you apply light pressure. I takes getting used to in hard stops, just remember the ABS is effective and don't be afraid to stab the brakes hard.
At Edmunds Live the Forester easily bested all other SUVs in the braking test, stopping short and straight. The ABS pulses, so practice a bit to get used to the feeling.
It's a bit controversial, but I've driven cars with "touchy" brakes (Chevy Cavalier rental), which stop rather abruptly even with light pressure, and I'll take the dual stage brakes any day. Ideal would be something in between, though.
-juice
PS Speaking of "repair", Firestone will issue a recall today for the Wilderness tires. We'll have to see if the Outback's are affected.
I want to get a 2001 Forrester. Presently have a volvo & a Ram truck. Both air conditioners are gone after just 4 years and it would take $1,200 a piece to fix them!!! Anyone out there had bad and expensive situations with Subaru?
I just picked up my Silverthorn Forester L last Saturday, I love it!!! When I was leaving the dealership, they asked if I wanted to have the paint sealed. I wasn't sure what that was, so I declined for now. The lady said something about never having to wax the car if I sealed it. Does anyone know what this "sealing" consists of, if it is necessary, and what I can do if I don't want to pay the few hundred dollars for it? Is it something that I can do myself?
I am on my 3rd Subaru' (200K miles total on 2 previous ones), and never had any problems with A/C. I don't like open windows (in the Bay Area congested traffic), and A/C is always ON in my cars. Never had any problems (knock-knock-knock-knock).
I have Forester'01 now, and A/C is really cold even at minimum (1st) position with outside temp at 102 F (I also got back windows tinted at 20% tint).
On contrary, A/C on my previous cars (Ford and Plymouth) was always a weak point, and very expensive to fix, and I lived in Florida back then... you can imagine the rest.
My 00 Outback came with a dealer-installed paint sealant package (I made the dealer eat the cost, since I didn't want it). Apparently, it protects against bird droppings, bugs, tar, etc, and eliminates the need to wax. BALONEY. After having the car for over a month, the finish feels and looks like it needs a good waxing. I don't think the paint sealant does a single thing, and you still need to wax if you're interested in shine and having that "water beading off" look. I'm planning my first waxing as soon as the weather cools off.
There are several aftermarket paint sealant products out there which seem to be similar to wax. I think they're basically all the same in the sense that they place a thin layer of "something" on top of the clearcoat.
Anybody tried a spray wax? It would appear to be easier to apply than paste, though I'm sure it doesn't last as long. Then again, with clearcoat, we're really not buffing the wax into the paint like we used to -- we're just wiping it on and off. I was thinking it might be less work to apply a spray wax after every wash (once a month for me) than to do the half-day paste wax project every 5 months or so. Any thoughts?
I have my Silver S Premium for 1 month. I love everything about it, except the on long drives I feel lack of thigh support and the seat feels too short. I'm playing with seat adjustments and also trying out various seat cushions for that problem.
All dealers in SF Bay Area were offering around 3% over invoice, but sometimes as low as $200-300 over invoice, if you're willing to take what they have on the lot at the moment. Since Silver S+ turned out to be a very popular model, I did not find it on the lots, and ended up ordering from factory, at 2.75% over invoice.
Kate: 2001, 20% tint, sounds good. Got any photos?
I've been washing my wife's car since our baby was born, so I can relate!
Forester prices vary by region and by model. Higher demand in New England, Canada, and in the Rockies can mean higher pricing. The S Premium is in higher demand than the more basic models, too.
In the DC area, Fitzgerald is...holy cow! They only have one in stock! It's an L for flat invoice price. Premiums I've seen them list for $400 over or so.
Where are you? Perhaps someone could recommend a specific dealer in your region?
>>Ken, the dealer had the tires set to 40 psi / 38 psi (hot/cold measurements) so I lowered it to 35.<<
In addition to all the advice you've already been given, I'd like to add one important point. Do not try to adjust your tire pressure when hot. It introduces a variable that you really can't judge. Always measure and add or remove air when the tires are cold. In your example above, did you change it to 35 psi when it was hot or cold? In one case you would have had to let out 3 psi, in the other 5 psi. Which is correct? See, it's already confusing.
It seems that many dealerships are putting higher pressure in the tires than recommended by Subaru. They, like me, seem to feel that the ride is too soft and mushy at 30 - 32 psi. Just make sure you don't go over the max cold pressure as stamped on the side of the tires. And remember that your gauge may be off slightly, although I've found most to be acurate to withing 2 psi. The max cold pressure for my tires is 44 psi. I run 38 in front and 36 in back.
Well, it was bound to happen. A week ago, a rock hit my windshield and left a star-shaped crack by the passenger side.
I was thinking about getting it fixed when just yesterday, I noticed the crack had grown to about 1.5ft across the windshield. I'm guessing the heat of the sun must have put stress on the crack.
Anyway, I drove over to a local Safelite today and had a new one installed for $180 plus tax. Nothing quite like a brand-new windshield.
I read the recall notice. It is for the light truck and SUV tire, size P235/75R15 radial ATX & ATX II style. This doesn't affect the OB as it's standard tire size is a 16" diameter. Also, as Juice pointed out, the OB has a higher speed rating on the tire than those on the Explorer/Mountainer, other SUV's. Hope this helps alleviate some fears. It certainly illustrates the importance of proper inflation as well.
I am guessing this is an appropriate topic for this forum, but here goes: The day I drove away in the 2001 Forester S, in early June, I noticed the engine light go on. Went back to the dealership, the tech checked the engine and determined the O2 sensor was malfunctioning which supposedly failed on some new Foresters. So, they ordered a new one.
I am planning on making an appointment to bring my car in next week for a 3,000 mile checkup (is really at 3200 but who's counting) as well as to install the O2 sensor and the air filter I had ordered.
In a previous conversation with my salesrep, he said it would take about 2 hours EACH to install both the sensor and filter. Sounds like an exaggeration to me, meaning I would have to bring my car in the morning, have them drive me to work, then pick me up later. An inconvenience, but hey. The sensor would be covered by them since it shouldn't have failed, and the air filter was paid for when I bought it, so aside from the oil change, etc, the price should be cheap.
Question is shouldn't the install time be quick? Would it be silly of me to ask for a loaner car FOR FREE during this time? Or to ask for some free rubber mats for my troubles?
Ouch, Ken. Did insurance cover it? In MD, comprehensive insurance covers it, so I'd only pay the $100 deductable. Some places issue coupons for $50 off, so it's only $50 out-of-pocket.
Out of curiosity, is the new one a Carlex also?
Good point, Stephen. Proper inflation also means not letting it get too low, which could also damage the tires and cause uneven wear. So if you let some air out on a trail, make sure to air it back up when you hit the roads.
guxx: loaner cars are purely up to the discretion of the dealer. Sounds like they've offered you a ride to work, which is better than most places (walk/shuttle to the subway).
As for the amount of time, they're probably giving themselves a lot of "gravy", if you will, in case it's busy.
The O2 sensor should be much easier than an oil change, for example, and can be done in unison since the under cover will be off.
The interior air filter is a bit of work, so 2 hours sounds right, actually.
I suggest you give them plenty of time, so they don't rush the repair, and enjoy the free shuttle service to work.
juice -- Unfortuantely, my glass deductible is higher ($300 if I remember correctly) so no luck. The front windshield is definetly a different brand although the Safelite guy told me it was OE. I'll have to go and check inscriptions later.
Guxx -- Subaru will loan you a car if you need to leave your vehicle overnight due to a repair. Loaner cars are pretty much under the discretion of the local service manager so it will vary from place to place. Try asking -- it couldn't hurt.
As for the time estimates, I think part of it is due to the way they account for time. I believe most line items on the repair order get booked for 1 hour of standard work time. I'm sure the entire repair takes a lot less than that.
If you can be a little late for work, ask them if you can wait there until the car is ready. It might very well be less than the two hour "promised" time. I do that all the time when I get my oil changed at the local Subaru dealer. I schedule it first thing in the morning and it's ready in 15 minutes.
juice -- Yeah, I know, I should do it myself but it's only $20 and they use genuine Subaru filters and crush washers.
Ok, I'm better now but this AM....I got in my car this morning to go to work and heard a flapping sound. I looked to my right and saw that my right-hand exterior mirror was pushed all the way forward against the body and that the shattered glass was tangling from the wires and banging against the mirror housing. I turned around, went home, and inspected. I parked the car on the street the night before because my housemate had gotten to the driveway before I did. Usually we don't have problems but every once in awhile something happens in the 'hood. I talked to some neighbors and one of them heard someone racing up the street at about 1:30am. They turned around and came back to inspect but never got out of the car. The neighbor wasn't able to get a license #. Fortunately, it only damaged the mirror and not the body of the car. I just finished talking to the insurance (USAA) and the police. Unfortunately, my uninsured motorists' coverage has a $300 deductible. I guess my question is how much does an exterior mirror for a OB Ltd cost? It's probably pretty pricey because of the defrost feature. There is a preferred body shop not to far from where I live. They will be calling me within the next 48 hrs to arrange a estimate. Boy, I'm glad this site exists....I feel better now. :-)
Well since there are other window breakage stories surfacing I guess I'll share mine and ask advice. I purchased my '01 Forester S Premium (also silverthorn metallic) two weeks ago. The day before I sealed the deal the dealership had someone go through in the middle of the night busting out windows in cars. Of course, mine was one of them on the driver's side. I have minor chips in the paint on the driver and driver side rear doors. The dealer had the chips air brushed but they are still visible, though not as bad. I spoke to the service person yesterday regarding this expressing my dissatisfaction and he suggested I NOT have them sand, and refinish the doors to their original quality because he said that nothing is like the factory finish and I would be inviting further problems in the future . According to the dealership the air brush fix with matching paint seals the chips and I should be able to blend them in somewhat with rubbing compound. I am willing to settle for that solution however, I am of the opinion that I should be compensated somehow since I paid for an unscratched car. My thought was maybe a hood deflector and a LSD protector. What do y'all think? Greg
I would imagine that your bargaining power has diminished significantly now that you own the car. What you probably should have done was ask for a $$ discount when you negotiated the price of the car. To me, this is similar to buying a car with hail damage -- the dealer will generally promise to repair the damage (as best they can) and also knock off a few hundred bucks to compensate the customer. Unless the damage is very minor, you're buying a "blemished" vehicle and should get a discount. And the dealer shouldn't care -- they have insurance for that sort of thing, which also covers the decrease in retail value.
I've gotten several new cars with minor scratches, and it was not a big deal to just hit them with a little touchup paint. But if it was anything more than a simple scratch, I would have asked for a discount.
He probably meant it meets OE specifications, then. Should be fine, Carlex isn't known for making the best windsheilds.
Stephen: darn, Darlene is off this week. If you can wait until Monday, she can get you wholesale prices for the replacement mirror. If it seems expensive, it may be worth the wait.
Greg: I'm not sure I agree with their repair strategy. Air brushing only part of the door? I've never heard of that. Most body shops paint entire panels.
At least have them put a clear coat on the entire door panel, so there are no seams.
I just went through the same thing. Had some scratches on my hood that the dealer was supposed "to make invisible". There is no such thing unless you repaint the entire piece. Refrained from doing so, because the touch-up expert advised against it. Uneven painting done by the body shop can/will lead to serious problems down the road (not literally , I mean after a few years). Get them to fix the scratches as much as they can and have them sealed. I didn't ask for any financial compensation, but I feel I have a bit of power now when it comes to minor repairs or services in the future. I hope my calculation is correct.
A potentially interesting wrinkle in the tire controversy: Early word is that an unusual number -- though I haven't seen any statistics proving that if it's truly a majority or not -- of the Firestone-tire-related wrecks in Texas seem to quite specifically involve the right rear wheel on Explorers.
Has anyone experienced a creaking drivers seat? I have a 99 Forester that has developed a very annoying creek - the worst part is that it is almost impossible to reproduce on demand. As far as I can tell it seems to be coming from the bottom right side of the drivers seat where the reclining seat hinge thingy is. Has anyone seen / solved this before - before I get out the lubricants.....
Several months ago I asked for help with a problem I am having with my 2000 Outback Limited wagon in that I seem to have no power in first gear with ascending steep inclines. Received some responses to the effect I should put emergency brake on and rev engine to 4000 rpm then release clutch. This is a manual transmission, by the way.
I live in the mountains of western North Carolina about a quarter mile from the eastern boundary of the GSMNP. I am at 4000 feet and have two miles of gravel mostly one-lane road to my home.
Two weeks ago I took my Subaru to the dealer in Asheville, which is about 40 miles away and the service advisor rode with me and I could not get the vehicle to duplicate the problem I have up here. I have no problem on the highway (I-40) or when going into the nearest town - Waynesville. He said I needed to drive the vehicle hard three time in succession so the computer could get use to driving hard. I am retired and no need to get in a hurry, but coming up the mountain I can only go in first gear, and if I stop go get my mail, which is a mile from the house, I just have no power and it almost bogs down before it catches and takes off. Then I get the smell Juice indicated may be the clutch burning. The vehicle is 10 months old and has 7,023 miles on it. Today coming up the mountain the check engine light came on after I stopped to pick up my mail. It will not go off and I continued a mile on up the road to the house.
As information, the service advisor drove the vehicle with me in it hard three times, but I have really noticed no difference. I plan to call the dealer on Monday and asked them what I should do. I had not problem with my 97 Outback, and I really like the new one, but I am not very happy with the way it is performing. Any suggestions or advice would certainly be appreciated.
I'm not sure the check engine light has anything to do with your lack of power in 1st gear.
I have noticed that if I don't give enough gas to the car before releasing the clutch, that it does bog down for a second before going forward. Maybe you could try pushing the RPMs to 2500 before releasing the clutch on the hill?
As for the check engine light - I had it come on twice.
The 1st time, they replaced the ECU. I felt no power loss.
The 2nd time, they had to replace a fuel injector on cylinder 1. This was much more serious, as the car was shuddering heavily at lower RPMs.
Thanks for response. I certainly enjoy reading all the Subaru posted comments and questions by the owners and wannabe owners. Juice, Dave, Mike, Mary and the others are helpful and interesting.
Comments
bitman
I don't think it will make a difference whether or not you keep the original oil in or change it early. IMO it also won't matter on a stock engine if you use synthetic or mineral oil, what matters is how often you change that filter.
-Colin
The owner's manual recommends 5W30 for most climates. Is there a big difference between 5W30 and 10W30 in moderate climates?
Just curious because the service manager at the local dealer here also recommends 10W30. He downplays 5W30 calling it a "generic".
I used 5w30 for one oil change last winter and had a whole lot more valvetrain noise at cold start. Nothing I was mechanically worried about, but nevertheless I run 10w30 instead.
-Colin
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT !!!!
I dug out my old fluid mechanics textbook, and found some oil viscosity data. Here's a chart that shows the viscosity of 5W-30 and 10W-30 over the range of ambient temperatures most of us would ever expect to encounter:
As shown, 5W-30 should be better at low temperatures (less viscous for easier starting), but both oils are about the same as you get in the 60-100 F range. By the time an engine warms up to operating temperature, the differences between 5W-30 and 10W-30 are slim. Were you to go all the way up to 210 F (where the "30" rating is measured), the two oils would have the same viscosity.
Colin, it's curious you got more noise out of a cold start with 5W-30 than 10W-30 -- I would have expected the opposite. When I skied a lot in Vermont, where it would routinely be -15F in the mornings, I had a hard time starting and lots of bearing "rap" with 10W-30 (this was in a Honda Civic). The engine started easier and sounded a little healthier with 5W-30. Either way, you will hear some pretty scary engine sounds when it's that cold . . . . oil starts to resemble molasses at those temps!
Craig
-Colin
My 00 OB is ready for it's first 3,000 mile oil change, and I was considering trying one of these filters. By the way, they cost around $8.
-Lee
Craig
1. Some scratches can be completely filled. Other's can't, so they will always show to some extent.
2. Completely painting the hood is not necessarily the best option. First of all, it apparently voids the paint warranty. Other parts can be repainted without affecting the warranty, but not the hood. Second, the body shops do not as good a job as the robots in the factory. So you may end up with some areas that are less well painted than others. Five or ten years down the road, you will be able to see which areas are the bad ones. The touch-up person warrants his job for 15 years, a body shop only for 90 days!
3. Whenever you get a scratch or chip, seal it off ASAP. Put some touch-up paint on top of the scratch, but this is by far not as important as sealing it off with either nail polish or superglue. That protects the metal body from corroding as well as the metal particles in the paint. They can corrode too. If you look at cars that are a few years old, you will often see pea to dime-size spots that just look different, at some the paint even comes off. This is allegedly due to oxidation of the metal particles in the paint.
He gave me some more advice on how to clean the car, but that I am going to put in the "Cleaning" section.
Mischa
About a month ago, while in a parking garage, I accidently got a little "too close" to another car, and so my front bumper on the left corner has 3-4 blackish lines showing where the scratch came from. To fix this, would this require replacing the whole bumper or can it be touched up with some of that paintless solution as mentioned elsewhere in this forum? What do people recommend?
Also...regarding oil changes, I used to own a Plymouth Acclaim and I loyally changed my oil every 3,000 miles. Should it be the same for the Forester?
Thx!
For oil changes, I stick to the service intervals recommended in the owner's manual. If they say 7500 mile oil changes, that's what I do. Under severe conditions (high heat, dusty roads, lots of stop and go driving) you might want to do it every 5000 miles. I think 3000 mile intervals are overkill -- it's been used as a marketing ploy in recent years, but most experts agree that it's unneccesary to change the oil that often.
Craig
Also, I'm getting 26 mpg and it's running well.
-juice
The blackish marks I think are the material underneath the bumper. I have the new gold color, and so the bumper is gold but these marks give it a black look there.
So touchup paint, huh? Is this something I can easily do myself, (keeping in mind I haven't done it before)? Where do I get the paint from? Or is it simpler and cheaper to have it done at the Subaru place? Would they charge alot?
Thx
I have no idea what a dealer would charge to fix the scratches, but it shouldn't be more than $50 or so.
good luck!
Craig
-juice
oil change (3K) a couple weeks ago and had the
dealer do a wheel alignment because the steering
wheel was tilted clockwise about 10 degrees.
Now it seems to have the same problem if the
last turn I did was to the right (ie. after
the turn, the wheel is tilted clockwise even
when going straight). However, if the last
turn I did was to the left, the wheel seems
more or less fine (ie. straight when it should
be). Are there any technical terms/phrases/parts
I can use when describing this to the dealer?
Ken, the dealer had the tires set to 40 psi /
38 psi (hot/cold measurements) so I lowered it
to 35. I'll lower it again in a little while
to probably 33 (what confuses me though is how
to know what the right pressure is for the front
vs the back - I don't like the trial&error
method
Thanks.
-Colin
What did the dealer do those three times?
I hope this helps your comfort level somewhat.
Stephen
Don't underestimate the value of bleeding the brakes too, give that a try. The pedal will be firmer and travel less on pure fluid.
Another thing you can do is install stainless steel braided brake lines... for the Impreza family it's about $125 for the set and takes less than 2 hours to install, plus maybe another hour to bleed the brakes. I'm pretty happy with mine, but it's a fairly subtle change compared to going with a single stage booster.
-Colin
Hmmm. Don't know what's up with the steering wheel. Steering wheels can be set off-center and readjusted pretty easily by turning some screws. I think it's best to try and describe what happens rather than translate that into technical terms.
As for the tires, Colin makes a good point. Keep the ratio the same but at a higher pressure. If that's confusing, you can always start with even front and back, drive for a little until you get used to it and then adjust either one a little (+/- 2psi) to see what it does.
Have the dealer look at it again. It should be easy to describe since you can reproduce the problem.
Amanda/Martin: the new brakes are designed that way so it's smooth coming to a stop when you apply light pressure. I takes getting used to in hard stops, just remember the ABS is effective and don't be afraid to stab the brakes hard.
At Edmunds Live the Forester easily bested all other SUVs in the braking test, stopping short and straight. The ABS pulses, so practice a bit to get used to the feeling.
It's a bit controversial, but I've driven cars with "touchy" brakes (Chevy Cavalier rental), which stop rather abruptly even with light pressure, and I'll take the dual stage brakes any day. Ideal would be something in between, though.
-juice
PS Speaking of "repair", Firestone will issue a recall today for the Wilderness tires. We'll have to see if the Outback's are affected.
When I was leaving the dealership, they asked if I wanted to have the paint sealed. I wasn't sure what that was, so I declined for now. The lady said something about never having to wax the car if I sealed it. Does anyone know what this "sealing" consists of, if it is necessary, and what I can do if I don't want to pay the few hundred dollars for it? Is it something that I can do myself?
Thanks,
Rich
I've never heard a complaint about an A/C malfunction, so I guess it doesn't seem to be a problem area for Subaru.
Rich: sounds like profit padding. Use a good carnauba wax every 6 months, and wash it regularly (at least once a month).
Keeping it clean regularly is most important.
-juice
I have Forester'01 now, and A/C is really cold even at minimum (1st) position with outside temp at 102 F (I also got back windows tinted at 20% tint).
On contrary, A/C on my previous cars (Ford and Plymouth) was always a weak point, and very expensive to fix, and I lived in Florida back then... you can imagine the rest.
How long have you had your Forester2001?
Do you love it?
Did the dealer "deal"
There are several aftermarket paint sealant products out there which seem to be similar to wax. I think they're basically all the same in the sense that they place a thin layer of "something" on top of the clearcoat.
Anybody tried a spray wax? It would appear to be easier to apply than paste, though I'm sure it doesn't last as long. Then again, with clearcoat, we're really not buffing the wax into the paint like we used to -- we're just wiping it on and off. I was thinking it might be less work to apply a spray wax after every wash (once a month for me) than to do the half-day paste wax project every 5 months or so. Any thoughts?
Craig
All dealers in SF Bay Area were offering around 3% over invoice, but sometimes as low as $200-300 over invoice, if you're willing to take what they have on the lot at the moment. Since Silver S+ turned out to be a very popular model, I did not find it on the lots, and ended up ordering from factory, at 2.75% over invoice.
I've been washing my wife's car since our baby was born, so I can relate!
Forester prices vary by region and by model. Higher demand in New England, Canada, and in the Rockies can mean higher pricing. The S Premium is in higher demand than the more basic models, too.
In the DC area, Fitzgerald is...holy cow! They only have one in stock! It's an L for flat invoice price. Premiums I've seen them list for $400 over or so.
Where are you? Perhaps someone could recommend a specific dealer in your region?
-juice
38 psi (hot/cold measurements) so I lowered it
to 35.<<
In addition to all the advice you've already been given, I'd like to add one important point. Do not try to adjust your tire pressure when hot. It introduces a variable that you really can't judge. Always measure and add or remove air when the tires are cold. In your example above, did you change it to 35 psi when it was hot or cold? In one case you would have had to let out 3 psi, in the other 5 psi. Which is correct? See, it's already confusing.
It seems that many dealerships are putting higher pressure in the tires than recommended by Subaru. They, like me, seem to feel that the ride is too soft and mushy at 30 - 32 psi. Just make sure you don't go over the max cold pressure as stamped on the side of the tires. And remember that your gauge may be off slightly, although I've found most to be acurate to withing 2 psi. The max cold pressure for my tires is 44 psi. I run 38 in front and 36 in back.
Dave B
-Bryan
I was thinking about getting it fixed when just yesterday, I noticed the crack had grown to about 1.5ft across the windshield. I'm guessing the heat of the sun must have put stress on the crack.
Anyway, I drove over to a local Safelite today and had a new one installed for $180 plus tax. Nothing quite like a brand-new windshield.
Stephen
I am planning on making an appointment to bring my car in next week for a 3,000 mile checkup (is really at 3200 but who's counting) as well as to install the O2 sensor and the air filter I had ordered.
In a previous conversation with my salesrep, he said it would take about 2 hours EACH to install both the sensor and filter. Sounds like an exaggeration to me, meaning I would have to bring my car in the morning, have them drive me to work, then pick me up later. An inconvenience, but hey. The sensor would be covered by them since it shouldn't have failed, and the air filter was paid for when I bought it, so aside from the oil change, etc, the price should be cheap.
Question is shouldn't the install time be quick? Would it be silly of me to ask for a loaner car FOR FREE during this time? Or to ask for some free rubber mats for my troubles?
Thx.
Out of curiosity, is the new one a Carlex also?
Good point, Stephen. Proper inflation also means not letting it get too low, which could also damage the tires and cause uneven wear. So if you let some air out on a trail, make sure to air it back up when you hit the roads.
guxx: loaner cars are purely up to the discretion of the dealer. Sounds like they've offered you a ride to work, which is better than most places (walk/shuttle to the subway).
As for the amount of time, they're probably giving themselves a lot of "gravy", if you will, in case it's busy.
The O2 sensor should be much easier than an oil change, for example, and can be done in unison since the under cover will be off.
The interior air filter is a bit of work, so 2 hours sounds right, actually.
I suggest you give them plenty of time, so they don't rush the repair, and enjoy the free shuttle service to work.
-juice
Guxx -- Subaru will loan you a car if you need to leave your vehicle overnight due to a repair. Loaner cars are pretty much under the discretion of the local service manager so it will vary from place to place. Try asking -- it couldn't hurt.
As for the time estimates, I think part of it is due to the way they account for time. I believe most line items on the repair order get booked for 1 hour of standard work time. I'm sure the entire repair takes a lot less than that.
If you can be a little late for work, ask them if you can wait there until the car is ready. It might very well be less than the two hour "promised" time. I do that all the time when I get my oil changed at the local Subaru dealer. I schedule it first thing in the morning and it's ready in 15 minutes.
juice -- Yeah, I know, I should do it myself but it's only $20 and they use genuine Subaru filters and crush washers.
Stephen
Greg
I've gotten several new cars with minor scratches, and it was not a big deal to just hit them with a little touchup paint. But if it was anything more than a simple scratch, I would have asked for a discount.
Craig
Stephen: darn, Darlene is off this week. If you can wait until Monday, she can get you wholesale prices for the replacement mirror. If it seems expensive, it may be worth the wait.
Greg: I'm not sure I agree with their repair strategy. Air brushing only part of the door? I've never heard of that. Most body shops paint entire panels.
At least have them put a clear coat on the entire door panel, so there are no seams.
-juice
Mischa
have a 99 Forester that has developed a very
annoying creek - the worst part is that it is almost impossible to reproduce on demand. As far as I can tell it seems to be coming from the bottom right side of the drivers seat where the reclining seat hinge thingy is. Has anyone seen / solved this before - before I get out the lubricants.....
I live in the mountains of western North Carolina about a quarter mile from the eastern boundary of the GSMNP. I am at 4000 feet and have two miles of gravel mostly one-lane road to my home.
Two weeks ago I took my Subaru to the dealer in Asheville, which is about 40 miles away and the service advisor rode with me and I could not get the vehicle to duplicate the problem I have up here. I have no problem on the highway (I-40) or when going into the nearest town - Waynesville.
He said I needed to drive the vehicle hard three time in succession so the computer could get use to driving hard. I am retired and no need to get in a hurry, but coming up the mountain I can only go in first gear, and if I stop go get my mail, which is a mile from the house, I just have no power and it almost bogs down before it catches and takes off. Then I get the smell Juice indicated may be the clutch burning. The vehicle is 10 months old and has 7,023 miles on it. Today coming up the mountain the check engine light came on after I stopped to pick up my mail. It will not go off and I continued a mile on up the road to the house.
As information, the service advisor drove the vehicle with me in it hard three times, but I have really noticed no difference. I plan to call the dealer on Monday and asked them what I should do. I had not problem with my 97 Outback, and I really like the new one, but I am not very happy with the way it is performing. Any suggestions or advice would certainly be appreciated.
I'm not sure the check engine light has anything to do with your lack of power in 1st gear.
I have noticed that if I don't give enough gas to the car before releasing the clutch, that it does bog down for a second before going forward. Maybe you could try pushing the RPMs to 2500 before releasing the clutch on the hill?
As for the check engine light - I had it come on twice.
The 1st time, they replaced the ECU. I felt no power loss.
The 2nd time, they had to replace a fuel injector on cylinder 1. This was much more serious, as the car was shuddering heavily at lower RPMs.
-- ash
'00 Outback