Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair
bonnie_rick
Member Posts: 115
in Subaru
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http://www.thejuiceman.homepage.com\oil.html
Let me know what you guys think.
-juice
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Darned nice guy and serious Subaru tuner/fixer/enthusiast. Check out Teague's Auto at www.teaguesauto.com
If I may extend my opinion, I think the estimate sounds within reason.
-Colin
Ok what do u do when that big [non-permissible content removed] maintenance comes along like the 30,000mile one which costa an arm and a leg to do. What if you have have done your own tranny and rear diff oil, aftermarkte stuff like air filter, pulley belts etc....will they still charge that much if you tell them to leave those stuff alone?
I'm probably going to be selling this Subie some time in the next 16 months, so I'd prefer to just purchase one set of all-season tires.
My bias (pardon the pun) would be towards a tire that is reasonably good in snow, even if it's a little noisier or less durable than others.
I think the Michelin MVX4 + is a contender; any other thoughts/opinions?
Thanks.
Randy
'92 Legacy LE Touring Wagon
I think Consumer Reports did a review of all-season radials a while back. The Michellins you mentioned got good reviews as did the Goodyear LS.
Even though you have a wagon, you may also want to look into light truck tires. They usually offer a more aggressive tread pattern that may suit your needs. The only constraint would be tire size.
If you're getting an appropriate discount, and the car is in excellent shape and has been well-maintained according to Subaru specs, I wouldn't be scared off by the number of miles. Subies are solid cars, and last a long time -- just make sure your price takes the mileage into account, not just the year.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Randy
ramon: you brought up a good point. It may be nice to find a Subaru specialist that perhaps has even done some mods, though I wonder what it would cost. It would be worth it to browse a few service bays and to talk to some mechanics to get a better idea.
Randy is right on, the mileage is high for the car's age, but Subarus typically do last 150k+ miles. Probably more if taken care of, and if they are highway miles.
-juice
Randy
Paul
-juice
Scott
They are cheap enough that you should buy them anyway. Reuse an old one only in an emergency, as it were.
Chris
Bottom line--if the variable wiper is an option for base wagons, you can be sure that any necessary wiring is in your car already. If not, check the schematics/wiring diagrams in your owner's manual. If additional wiring would have to be installed the retrofit will be more expensive and time-consuming, especially if a second or third wire has to be run to the wiper motor.
If all the wiring's there and the systems use the same wiper motor (another assumption), you will still need to swap out the turn signal/wiper control stalk for the variable version. If the wiring's not there, I doubt that a dealer would be willing to mess with the factory wiring system (ever notice that electrical parts are not returnable and modifications void the warranty?). However, there are probably aftermarket shops in your area that would do it. If you're really dying for the variable feature, get more than one opinion. Good luck.
crush washer under the oil pan drain bolt<<
I just changed the oil in my Legacy for the first time, and didn't notice anything that looked like it was supposed to be removed from the drain plug. I've always changed the oil myself in all my vehicles, but I'm not familiar with this crush washer thing, and I've never had a leak at the drain plug.
Like any warranty / insurance, you need to evaluate the term and cost. So how many months, miles and how much? Usually the price on these is VERY negotiable.
I always say no to extended warranties. But I carefully evaluate their value before doing so.
By the way, you are aware that the 36k mile warranty is the bumper-to-bumper one, right? You've got a 60k mile powertrain warranty.
-Colin
You're not alone. When I changed my oil the first time I also notice that there was no washer from the factory (2000 Legacy GT Ltd). But, I did order a dozen from subaruparts.com before doing that first change. In case anyone is interested, the Subaru Oil Filter is a Purolator unit.
They must be at least slightly different. What that difference might be, I have no idea. For now (until the 5 year powertrain warranty runs out at least) I plan to stick with the Subaru filter, "just in case".
Chris
I order original Subaru Oil Filters for my MY00 Legacy GT Wagon from QSubaru. Cost is $4.00 each, which includes shipping and handling!
BTW, the filters come with the crush washers for the drain plug.
Francisco
http://edmunds.com/partners/1source/index.html
What's funny is that I don't recall seeing the washer for the oil drain plug. Did I miss/lose something, or does is not come from the factory? And if so, why does it come with the OE filter?
-juice
Thank you
I bought my first Subaru last August, a Y2K Forester L, and absolutely love it. I drove a Honda Civic for eight years before picking up the Soob, and as anyone who's ever driven a Subaru could have predicted, the handling blew me away from day one. It's been over eight months and I still drive around with a big smile on my face. For the first time I can understand why people hand-wash and wax their cars. My friends can't believe that I've suddenly turned into one of "those people" who carries a spray bottle of quik-detailer in my trunk, but that's just how I feel about my "new" car. (I'm so finicky about the Soob that it still looks and feels new, and I hope to keep it in top shape for a long time!)
Now to my question. I received my very first ding about a month ago, on the driver's side door, and although it's fairly minor (the size of a quarter, with no noticeable paint damage) I'd like to get it fixed if possible. My dealer recommended a small outfit, not a body shop, but a company that specializes in fixing minor dents. They quoted me $65 (I talked them down from $85) for an hour-long process that would involve taking out the window and "massaging" the ding out from behind.
Has anyone had any experience getting this done, and are there any issues I should be aware of?
Thanks very much in advance for your input, and thanks for all the terrific previous posts. You guys are great!
Since taking delivery of my 99 Forester, I have been experiencing a hesitation problem. It happens any time of year. It happens when first starting out. I give the car enough time before engaging.It holds back on acceleration. Sometimes it almost stalls. This problem may happen 3 times in one day or not for a week. I have had it to the dealer several times. First they told me to try different gas, then they told me to try a higher octane. Finally they took me serious and were able to duplicate the problem. They changed the throttle chamber, The problem was back . Then they changed the fuel pressure regulator, The problem was back. I also had a wind noise in the rear hatch. they said they fixed it. I have to admit it is a little better , but upon fixing it they created a creaking/rattle. When they fix that the wind noise comes back. I also have other rattles and creaks. My brakes are a question also. My brake pedal in almost to the floor,when pressing down on it. the rear brakes have a slight grinding noise and sometimes a squeak. I was getting tired of going back and forth to the dealers. The last time I called them the General Mngr. of service told me that they would have to charge me for the time it took to look for a problem if they have to keep looking for the hesitation problem. I basically hung up from him and filed my lemon law paperwork. They had their 4th repair attempt ,and told me that they could find nothing wrong. I gave them the opportunity to keep the car until the hesitation occured again. They said Oh, we can't do that. The problem happened for me the very next day. Needless to say it is dangerous when pulling out into traffic! I called Subaru of America to see if they wanted to resolve the matter, I explained everything to them amd they asked what would make me happy. I stated that I wanted a replacement Vehicle. He said I will call you tomorrow. When he called he said that the rep driving my car thought it was running according to specs. They didn't want to replace the vehicle. But, We at Subaru would like to offer you $2500.00 in return you have to sign a waiver releasing us from further liability and drop your hearing. I basically told him see you at the hearing. I should mention that a day or two after getting this car , while washing it I found that the mud flaps were only on with one screw and also the front grill was only attached on one side. Doors wouldn't shut right. I think that this vehicle was made on a bad day at the factory. Every person the I know really loves their Forester and really hasn't had any problems. I love the Forester! I just want one that runs properly. So I am asking anyone out there that has had a hesitation/ wind noise problem/ Brake problem to please write.
Thank you,
Lemonowner3
I received my first dent a few months back and I was just devastated! I also keep my Forester in tip top shape. My dealer recommended a small outfit and I gave them a try. They were called the Dent Doctors. My dent was about the same size, no paint breaks. He charged me $40.00 and I was very pleased. You can't even see where it was. My dent was in the left front fender. He had to remove the wheel well cover (Is that a proper term?) I learned an important lesson with that dent. Park far away from shopping carts. My feeling was to try the Dent doctor and if I didn't care for the way it came out I would go to the body shop. I think you will be pleased.
I am more than pleased with the results and would not hesitate to recommend the "dent buster" method. What I would suggest is getting the names of some previous users and checking out the quality of work before letting anyone begin! Hope this helps.
Don
Thanks again,
Karen
If you do go through with the battery disconnect and find a difference, however, there may be something wrong with the knock sensor itself.
My Haynes manual for '90-'98 Legacies has other sources for "stumbles on acceleration": spark plug fouled/malfunction, problem with fuel injection, clogged fuel filter, incorrect ignition timing, intake manifold air leak and problem with emission control system.
Having an intermittent problem is the difficulty in finding the source - and makes me wonder about the knock sensor(which changes ignition timing). I think spark failures give a trouble code on the models beginning in '95. A sticking Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve could behave like an intake manifold air leak. They are expected to last over 30K - but so is any other part on the list. Most emission sensor problems give a trouble code and "check engine" light. I think the PCV may be an exception to this. It is also cheap to replace.
If the dealer isn't responsive, try a different dealer (may be too late, the hearing is this week right?)
My wife's 626 had the same hesitation and it turned out to need fuel system servicing. They changed the plugs and plug wires, and cleaned the injectors (that's what helped, I believe). They said it could have been bad gas.
It was so simple it seems silly that the dealer didn't already check these things.
Regardless, these aren't common, so I think you do have a case. Take the Consumer Reports SUV buying guide with you, just to show that these are normally very reliable, and that yours is out of spec (i.e. a lemon).
BTW, I don't think the mud flaps help, that is something that should be fixed by the dealer in one visit. They have to be given a chance to correct anything. It's only a lemon if they fail repeatedly to fix something (like the engine).
Sounds like people here have been pleased with paintless dent removal. My only concern would be the long-term durability of the paint, since it's been stretched. I'd keep a good coat of wax, and keep it clean (you should regardless).
-juice
I have a 99 Forester S Auto trans. Please forgive me, I am not polished on automotive lingo. But if ECU is the computer they have already replaced the chip. Also fuel injectors and cleaning and flushing and on another visit they changed the throttle chamber, also another visit to change the fuel regulator. The problem never went away. I then filed the lemon law paperwork. It has been going on now for 22,000 miles and I am tired of going back to the dealer.On my next visit to the dealer, which by the law, is their last chance to fix it, they went back to saying that I don't have a problem! This time it was looked at by SOA Reps.
Juice, everything that you have suggested has already been done to this car. I also had changed brands of fuel and tried a higher octane. Nothing helps. As far as the mud flaps and grill they were taken care of in one visit. The rear hatch wind noise is another issue. When they fix the wind noise the hatch creaks and rattles. When they fix the rattle the wind noise comes back. Also the paint on the hatch where the gate buffers from the body meet,is worn down to the bare metal. Not a good thing, considering I live in the North East and the road salt is used extensively.I feel the hatch never really fit properly because when I first got the car the door ajar light was always going on and off at weir times. When the wind noise problem was worked on the door ajar light problem stopped.
You know, I really think this is unfortunate because I really love this car! I just can't tolerate the performance of it. I keep it in tip top shape, As far as the dent repair, you need not worry, I have several coats of wax on my car, it is always spotless! I will keep you all posted on the results of the hearing. All I really want is a Forester that runs correctly.
By the way, all of the Forester owners that I know are really happy with their cars. I hope to be a happy Forester owner after Thursday.
Thanks again,
Karen
Good luck at the hearing, and keep us posted. If they do determine it's a lemon, you may want to share the VIN just so that noone else here buys it! I would hope SoA would take it back for inspection, but you never know.
-juice
I said "Yes" and he replied, "Well I wasn't!"
Funny story. I think the real story behind the story is if the dealer breaks it, it's covered under warranty. :-)
I would have done the same exact thing.
Karen
Chris
and for that matter is it real wood trim (in the Forester 2001)?
Karen: good luck with your case, let us know how it goes. If you decide to get another Soob (you must otherwise really like the vehicle), try an extensive test drive. Stop and restart the engine a couple of times, try merging, slowing and speeding up again, etc. Take someone else with you and have them drive a bit, too. Then purchase the exact car you drove.
commesso: no, it's plood (plastic wood). Clean it as you would any plastic surface. Be careful not to scratch the finish, not to create swirls, and use a mild cleaner.
-juice
Thanks,
Mailman