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Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair

bonnie_rickbonnie_rick Member Posts: 115
Subaru maintenance and repair questions can be
asked and answered in this topic...

Bonnie Rick
Town Hall Community Manager, Edmunds.com
Tagged:
«13456725

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Here's oil change instructions for a 2.5l Forester, though many of the tips apply to all Subaru models:

    http://www.thejuiceman.homepage.com\oil.html

    Let me know what you guys think.

    -juice
  • mlcleavermlcleaver Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can find out the invoice price of various Subaru parts? My new 2000 Forester L got rear-ended a couple days ago. The guy who hit me wants to pay for the repair himself rather than go through insurance. I took it to a Subaru dealer and the estimate was $900 for the following: a rear bumper cover ($350), bumper cover reinforcement ($275), labor ($200) and tax ($75). Although I don't have to pay for the repair myself, this estimate seems very high.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Try emailing Dale Teague, he might be able to help. teaguesauto@worldnet.att.net

    Darned nice guy and serious Subaru tuner/fixer/enthusiast. Check out Teague's Auto at www.teaguesauto.com

    If I may extend my opinion, I think the estimate sounds within reason.

    -Colin
  • ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    Hello,
    Ok what do u do when that big [non-permissible content removed] maintenance comes along like the 30,000mile one which costa an arm and a leg to do. What if you have have done your own tranny and rear diff oil, aftermarkte stuff like air filter, pulley belts etc....will they still charge that much if you tell them to leave those stuff alone?
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    I have been in the parts business for 20 years and those prices seem very reasonable. At most you might save 100.00 if you could get them at a wholesale price, but why bother, the guy deserves to pay full boat. You will be taking money from some parts person to help out the careless person who hit you.
  • abhidharmaabhidharma Member Posts: 93
    I've been switching between summer and snow tires over the last few years, and both sets are pretty much past their prime.

    I'm probably going to be selling this Subie some time in the next 16 months, so I'd prefer to just purchase one set of all-season tires.

    My bias (pardon the pun) would be towards a tire that is reasonably good in snow, even if it's a little noisier or less durable than others.

    I think the Michelin MVX4 + is a contender; any other thoughts/opinions?

    Thanks.

    Randy
    '92 Legacy LE Touring Wagon
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Randy,

    I think Consumer Reports did a review of all-season radials a while back. The Michellins you mentioned got good reviews as did the Goodyear LS.

    Even though you have a wagon, you may also want to look into light truck tires. They usually offer a more aggressive tread pattern that may suit your needs. The only constraint would be tire size.
  • FrankMcFrankMc Member Posts: 228
    I got put Cooper Lifeliner Classic II 's on my 97 Legacy. They got a Consumer Reports nod if you were in an area with some snow, but not the snow belt. I am in Gettysburg PA area and this describes our situation. The Consumer Report statement on them was "performed much like the Dunlop and Goodyear, except that its traction in the snow was much better." They were only $60 a tire. They seem fine so far (a little nosier than the old bridgestones) but we haven't gotten any snow yet for me to try them. One of my work buddies had them for over a year on a front wheel drive Buick and he thinks they are fine in the snow. (I admit it I love a bargain!)
  • lue2lue2 Member Posts: 1
    i may be a first time subaru owner soon...i'm looking into buying a 97 Outback automatic with 78K miles, mostly highway. besides normal maintenance what kind of standard checks occur after 78K miles? also, is 78K miles a lot of miles for an outback? thanks.
  • abhidharmaabhidharma Member Posts: 93
    lue2 -- 78K miles is pretty high for a '97 model. The car is 3 to 4 years old, and most depreciation calculations use 12000 miles per year, so the mileage "should" be around 40000 miles. Some of the car price sites will suggest an appropriate discount for above average mileage.

    If you're getting an appropriate discount, and the car is in excellent shape and has been well-maintained according to Subaru specs, I wouldn't be scared off by the number of miles. Subies are solid cars, and last a long time -- just make sure your price takes the mileage into account, not just the year.

    Hope this helps, and good luck.

    Randy
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    mlcleaver: also try QSubaru@aol.com for parts. They sell at invoice with no shipping charge, and no sales tax to boot! May be worth it if the guy that hit you was nice and apologetic.

    ramon: you brought up a good point. It may be nice to find a Subaru specialist that perhaps has even done some mods, though I wonder what it would cost. It would be worth it to browse a few service bays and to talk to some mechanics to get a better idea.

    Randy is right on, the mileage is high for the car's age, but Subarus typically do last 150k+ miles. Probably more if taken care of, and if they are highway miles.

    -juice
  • abhidharmaabhidharma Member Posts: 93
    Thanks for the info, Ken and Frank. I'll check out the brands you mentioned.

    Randy
  • ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    juice, funny thing after i brought that question up. I went to my local dealer for my regular oil change. Since I have the Unorthodox Racing pully, I had to change the belt sizes. After a few months the belts have come loose, so I asked if the mechanic can re tighten them. I was quite pessimistic if they are going to adjust it and I fear if they would just come back to me with some fits of rage. To my pleasant surprised, they readjusted everything without fuss and that's for free! Maybe it's this particular dealer. I think if I were to buy that turbo Impreza , I am quite sure I will drive 160km just to buy it from these guys. They seemed to be quite kewl with mods.
  • pgibianpgibian Member Posts: 7
    I want to retrofit the variable wiper mechanism(available on the Limited) to my '00 OB wagon. Can this be done?

    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's sweet (and good to know), Ramon.

    -juice
  • stuenerstuener Member Posts: 5
    Juice, I love how into the Subaru you are & how much info you bring. My question is in your oil change instructions you did not mention using a new crush washer under the oil pan drain bolt. Should we use a new one every time or can we reuse the old one? Thanks for any info.

    Scott
  • torektorek Member Posts: 92
    Officially, you should always use a new one (on any car) to avoid leaks. Unofficially, if you happen to be changing the oil and discover you forgot to get a new one, or lost it, or whatever, putting the old one back on "usually" works.

    They are cheap enough that you should buy them anyway. Reuse an old one only in an emergency, as it were.

    Chris
  • lurker4lurker4 Member Posts: 19
    Paul: You can probably retrofit the variable wipers on your 00 OB; the question is how costly and involved it would be. It'll be much less of a hassle if the Limited and the base wagon use the same wiring harness, which is in essence the spinal cord and nerves of your car's electrical system. The two models may use the same harness if it's more cost-efficient for Subaru to manufacture just one harness for use in all Legacy/OB wagons (economies of scale). On the other hand, since Limiteds and Legacy GT's etc. have additional electrical options over the base models, it may be cheaper for Subaru to build separate, more costly harnesses for the optioned models containing the additional wiring needed to hook up the power options.

    Bottom line--if the variable wiper is an option for base wagons, you can be sure that any necessary wiring is in your car already. If not, check the schematics/wiring diagrams in your owner's manual. If additional wiring would have to be installed the retrofit will be more expensive and time-consuming, especially if a second or third wire has to be run to the wiper motor.

    If all the wiring's there and the systems use the same wiper motor (another assumption), you will still need to swap out the turn signal/wiper control stalk for the variable version. If the wiring's not there, I doubt that a dealer would be willing to mess with the factory wiring system (ever notice that electrical parts are not returnable and modifications void the warranty?). However, there are probably aftermarket shops in your area that would do it. If you're really dying for the variable feature, get more than one opinion. Good luck.
  • texsubarutexsubaru Member Posts: 242
    Please excuse the cross-posting (this seems like a more appropriate place to ask this than 'Dealer & Prices,' where I first posted): I'm looking at buying a '98 Forester L, with just over 28,000 miles on it. Since it only has a bit under 8,000 miles left on the original warranty (just over six months worth of my average driving), I'm trying to get the dealer to toss in a factory-backed Subaru "Added Security" extended warranty as part of the deal. Does anybody have any experience with this to be able to say whether Subaru's extended warranty is really worth it?
  • 2ndwnd2ndwnd Member Posts: 145
    >>instructions you did not mention using a new
    crush washer under the oil pan drain bolt<<

    I just changed the oil in my Legacy for the first time, and didn't notice anything that looked like it was supposed to be removed from the drain plug. I've always changed the oil myself in all my vehicles, but I'm not familiar with this crush washer thing, and I've never had a leak at the drain plug.
  • pgibianpgibian Member Posts: 7
    Lurker4, thanks for the insight. I guess I'll check with the dealer about the complexity of the retrofit. In the meantime, I am waiting for a parts quote from subaruparts.com for pricing.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    re#19, extended warranty

    Like any warranty / insurance, you need to evaluate the term and cost. So how many months, miles and how much? Usually the price on these is VERY negotiable.

    I always say no to extended warranties. But I carefully evaluate their value before doing so.

    By the way, you are aware that the 36k mile warranty is the bumper-to-bumper one, right? You've got a 60k mile powertrain warranty.

    -Colin
  • bg18947bg18947 Member Posts: 184
    2ndwnd,

    You're not alone. When I changed my oil the first time I also notice that there was no washer from the factory (2000 Legacy GT Ltd). But, I did order a dozen from subaruparts.com before doing that first change. In case anyone is interested, the Subaru Oil Filter is a Purolator unit.
  • torektorek Member Posts: 92
    I bought the "gen-yoo-wine Subaru" filters for my oil changes, but also bought a Purolator filter at the local Pep Boys just to compare them. The Subaru filter actually says `manufactured for FHI by Purolator' (paraphrased, but the name Purolator really is on it) -- but the Subaru filter is heavier than the Purolator-brand-name model.

    They must be at least slightly different. What that difference might be, I have no idea. For now (until the 5 year powertrain warranty runs out at least) I plan to stick with the Subaru filter, "just in case".

    Chris
  • fmgarciafmgarcia Member Posts: 11
    FWIW . . .

    I order original Subaru Oil Filters for my MY00 Legacy GT Wagon from QSubaru. Cost is $4.00 each, which includes shipping and handling!

    BTW, the filters come with the crush washers for the drain plug.

    Francisco
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    texsubaru: try this link for a free quote, and then work down from their price:

    http://edmunds.com/partners/1source/index.html

    What's funny is that I don't recall seeing the washer for the oil drain plug. Did I miss/lose something, or does is not come from the factory? And if so, why does it come with the OE filter?

    -juice
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    I hope that this is finally the right site in the conference to get some advice. Sorry, I'm a little new here. If you would be willing to read my posting in the SUV conference topic # 2568 and give me some feed back I would really appreciate it. My lemon law hearing date is next week and I thought it would be good to know if the problem with my Forester is one shared by others. I ask you to go to the site because it took me a while to write it. You seem to be giving great advice. I love my Forester, I am asking to have it replaced. I feel that I have waited long enough for them to fix it,this has been going on for 22,000 miles.
    Thank you
  • jurek2jurek2 Member Posts: 10
    There is not the SUV conference # 2568.
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    Go out to the welcome page and on the Conference list select SUV, Topic 2568 is in there
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    So sorry, you are right, I think they deleted me because I was in the wrong place. I guess I will have to retype it. It may be in the archives I will check it out
  • justvisitingjustvisiting Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm a long-time lurker (almost 10 months) and figure it's about time I introduced myself and thanked all of you for the information you share so generously.

    I bought my first Subaru last August, a Y2K Forester L, and absolutely love it. I drove a Honda Civic for eight years before picking up the Soob, and as anyone who's ever driven a Subaru could have predicted, the handling blew me away from day one. It's been over eight months and I still drive around with a big smile on my face. For the first time I can understand why people hand-wash and wax their cars. My friends can't believe that I've suddenly turned into one of "those people" who carries a spray bottle of quik-detailer in my trunk, but that's just how I feel about my "new" car. (I'm so finicky about the Soob that it still looks and feels new, and I hope to keep it in top shape for a long time!)

    Now to my question. I received my very first ding about a month ago, on the driver's side door, and although it's fairly minor (the size of a quarter, with no noticeable paint damage) I'd like to get it fixed if possible. My dealer recommended a small outfit, not a body shop, but a company that specializes in fixing minor dents. They quoted me $65 (I talked them down from $85) for an hour-long process that would involve taking out the window and "massaging" the ding out from behind.

    Has anyone had any experience getting this done, and are there any issues I should be aware of?

    Thanks very much in advance for your input, and thanks for all the terrific previous posts. You guys are great!
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    I guess I have been deleted from the SUV section, so here goes again.
    Since taking delivery of my 99 Forester, I have been experiencing a hesitation problem. It happens any time of year. It happens when first starting out. I give the car enough time before engaging.It holds back on acceleration. Sometimes it almost stalls. This problem may happen 3 times in one day or not for a week. I have had it to the dealer several times. First they told me to try different gas, then they told me to try a higher octane. Finally they took me serious and were able to duplicate the problem. They changed the throttle chamber, The problem was back . Then they changed the fuel pressure regulator, The problem was back. I also had a wind noise in the rear hatch. they said they fixed it. I have to admit it is a little better , but upon fixing it they created a creaking/rattle. When they fix that the wind noise comes back. I also have other rattles and creaks. My brakes are a question also. My brake pedal in almost to the floor,when pressing down on it. the rear brakes have a slight grinding noise and sometimes a squeak. I was getting tired of going back and forth to the dealers. The last time I called them the General Mngr. of service told me that they would have to charge me for the time it took to look for a problem if they have to keep looking for the hesitation problem. I basically hung up from him and filed my lemon law paperwork. They had their 4th repair attempt ,and told me that they could find nothing wrong. I gave them the opportunity to keep the car until the hesitation occured again. They said Oh, we can't do that. The problem happened for me the very next day. Needless to say it is dangerous when pulling out into traffic! I called Subaru of America to see if they wanted to resolve the matter, I explained everything to them amd they asked what would make me happy. I stated that I wanted a replacement Vehicle. He said I will call you tomorrow. When he called he said that the rep driving my car thought it was running according to specs. They didn't want to replace the vehicle. But, We at Subaru would like to offer you $2500.00 in return you have to sign a waiver releasing us from further liability and drop your hearing. I basically told him see you at the hearing. I should mention that a day or two after getting this car , while washing it I found that the mud flaps were only on with one screw and also the front grill was only attached on one side. Doors wouldn't shut right. I think that this vehicle was made on a bad day at the factory. Every person the I know really loves their Forester and really hasn't had any problems. I love the Forester! I just want one that runs properly. So I am asking anyone out there that has had a hesitation/ wind noise problem/ Brake problem to please write.
    Thank you,
    Lemonowner3
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    Hi,
    I received my first dent a few months back and I was just devastated! I also keep my Forester in tip top shape. My dealer recommended a small outfit and I gave them a try. They were called the Dent Doctors. My dent was about the same size, no paint breaks. He charged me $40.00 and I was very pleased. You can't even see where it was. My dent was in the left front fender. He had to remove the wheel well cover (Is that a proper term?) I learned an important lesson with that dent. Park far away from shopping carts. My feeling was to try the Dent doctor and if I didn't care for the way it came out I would go to the body shop. I think you will be pleased.
  • yellowbikedonyellowbikedon Member Posts: 228
    I used a local "dent buster" to remove an ugly and large ding just at the right rear wheel well on my '96 Outback. Other than the break in the decal (which was there from the ding), the reults were wonderful. The cost for the work which took about an hour was $65.00. This was certainly better than the $600 quote I received from the Subaru dealer's body shop! I must say that the quote did include replacing the body decal.

    I am more than pleased with the results and would not hesitate to recommend the "dent buster" method. What I would suggest is getting the names of some previous users and checking out the quality of work before letting anyone begin! Hope this helps.

    Don
  • justvisitingjustvisiting Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the quick feedback. I'll probably give Dent Pro a call next week. Will let you know how it goes.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    lemonowner3: You might want to check out the Sugaru Legacy Outback forum at http//forums.vmag.com (or skip the homepage with //forums.vmag.com/suvsubaru0200 ) and search "hesitation" where several posts lead to information including a problem of the knock sensor causing hesitation because of the way its signal is managed by the ECU. The fix can be a new ECU that processes the knock sensor differently or by periodically resetting the ECU. The reset is done by disconnecting the battery (this also cancels the radio presets) or by removing the ECU fuse- "SBF2" for about 20 minutes to drain the ECU backup capacitor(preserves radio presets). Some owners find the problem recurs with oil changing and repeat this process with each oil change. There is also a TSB reference 11-53-98 so dealers should know about it.
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    I thank you very much for your knowledgeable information. I am eager to check out the web site that you have recommended.
    Thanks again,
    Karen
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Add ":" to the address- http://forums.vmag.com
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Unfortunately, the TSB on the hesitation fix applies only to 97-98 2.5L engines mated to a 5-speed manual. All they did was re-program the ECU software which was mis-reading the inputs from the knock sensor. I don't think the TSB would apply to the 99s and later.

    If you do go through with the battery disconnect and find a difference, however, there may be something wrong with the knock sensor itself.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    lemonowner3: Which transmission does your Forester have? Following kens idea, a test of the knock sensor might be to disconnect it and see if the problem persists. You might want the dealer to do this since it will result in a check engine light, although this to can be cleared by disconecting power from the ECM.
    My Haynes manual for '90-'98 Legacies has other sources for "stumbles on acceleration": spark plug fouled/malfunction, problem with fuel injection, clogged fuel filter, incorrect ignition timing, intake manifold air leak and problem with emission control system.
    Having an intermittent problem is the difficulty in finding the source - and makes me wonder about the knock sensor(which changes ignition timing). I think spark failures give a trouble code on the models beginning in '95. A sticking Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve could behave like an intake manifold air leak. They are expected to last over 30K - but so is any other part on the list. Most emission sensor problems give a trouble code and "check engine" light. I think the PCV may be an exception to this. It is also cheap to replace.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I was also thinking ECU, it may be worth a look. I would have the dealer look at that, the plugs, the entire fuel system, the plug wires, etc.

    If the dealer isn't responsive, try a different dealer (may be too late, the hearing is this week right?)

    My wife's 626 had the same hesitation and it turned out to need fuel system servicing. They changed the plugs and plug wires, and cleaned the injectors (that's what helped, I believe). They said it could have been bad gas.

    It was so simple it seems silly that the dealer didn't already check these things.

    Regardless, these aren't common, so I think you do have a case. Take the Consumer Reports SUV buying guide with you, just to show that these are normally very reliable, and that yours is out of spec (i.e. a lemon).

    BTW, I don't think the mud flaps help, that is something that should be fixed by the dealer in one visit. They have to be given a chance to correct anything. It's only a lemon if they fail repeatedly to fix something (like the engine).

    Sounds like people here have been pleased with paintless dent removal. My only concern would be the long-term durability of the paint, since it's been stretched. I'd keep a good coat of wax, and keep it clean (you should regardless).

    -juice
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    My, my, my, I really need to thank you , Royallen for referring me to the VMAG web site. I now have a ton of added information for my hearing.Seems like this problem is referred to as "the Dreaded Hesitation Problem".
    I have a 99 Forester S Auto trans. Please forgive me, I am not polished on automotive lingo. But if ECU is the computer they have already replaced the chip. Also fuel injectors and cleaning and flushing and on another visit they changed the throttle chamber, also another visit to change the fuel regulator. The problem never went away. I then filed the lemon law paperwork. It has been going on now for 22,000 miles and I am tired of going back to the dealer.On my next visit to the dealer, which by the law, is their last chance to fix it, they went back to saying that I don't have a problem! This time it was looked at by SOA Reps.
    Juice, everything that you have suggested has already been done to this car. I also had changed brands of fuel and tried a higher octane. Nothing helps. As far as the mud flaps and grill they were taken care of in one visit. The rear hatch wind noise is another issue. When they fix the wind noise the hatch creaks and rattles. When they fix the rattle the wind noise comes back. Also the paint on the hatch where the gate buffers from the body meet,is worn down to the bare metal. Not a good thing, considering I live in the North East and the road salt is used extensively.I feel the hatch never really fit properly because when I first got the car the door ajar light was always going on and off at weir times. When the wind noise problem was worked on the door ajar light problem stopped.
    You know, I really think this is unfortunate because I really love this car! I just can't tolerate the performance of it. I keep it in tip top shape, As far as the dent repair, you need not worry, I have several coats of wax on my car, it is always spotless! I will keep you all posted on the results of the hearing. All I really want is a Forester that runs correctly.
    By the way, all of the Forester owners that I know are really happy with their cars. I hope to be a happy Forester owner after Thursday.
    Thanks again,
    Karen
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sorry to hear about stories like that. Seems like you got the runt of the litter.

    Good luck at the hearing, and keep us posted. If they do determine it's a lemon, you may want to share the VIN just so that noone else here buys it! I would hope SoA would take it back for inspection, but you never know.

    -juice
  • 2ndwnd2ndwnd Member Posts: 145
    I got out of my less than a month old Legacy Wagon yesterday and the drivers door wouldn't close! After a quick examination, I noticed that the inner door seal was hanging down from the lower edge, causing the door to keep from shutting all the way. It had fallen out of it's groove because the inner plastic side of the door was loose on the bottom near the front. I tried to whack it back into place, I knew there had to be a clip inside the door that had popped out, but I couldn't get it back in place. I thought maybe the clip had broken, so I drove to the dealer. This big greasy guy walked over, tucked the seal back in place, gave the inside of the door a smack with his fist, and voila, it was fixed. I told him I'd tried that but it didn't work for me and he said, "I'll bet you were afraid you might break it huh?"
    I said "Yes" and he replied, "Well I wasn't!"
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    2ndwnd,

    Funny story. I think the real story behind the story is if the dealer breaks it, it's covered under warranty. :-)

    I would have done the same exact thing.
  • lemonowner3lemonowner3 Member Posts: 15
    I hope that my car is just the runt of the litter, It may be of interest to you to check out what I found at the web site that was recommended to me by Royallen in response # 39. Click on it and go to forums and click on the Subaru/outback/Forester site. Then do a search using the word Hesitation. My, My, My, !!!!!!!! I was flabbergasted. I have all of this data to bring with me. When I read all of the complaints, only then did I understand why SOA offered me $2500.00 and in return I had ti sign a waiver releasing them from further liability. I hope hat if I do get a new Forester itis a good performing vehicle. No more lurching toward the dash while pulling out into traffic! I will let you know how it goes and I will share the VIN if I win my case.
    Karen
  • torektorek Member Posts: 92
    There was some speculation that, after an oil and filter change, the sound of an empty filter getting hit with new oil (at first start-up) confuses the engine computer, leading to bogus anti-knock adjustments resulting in hesitation. I have no idea whether this is true, but when changing my filter, along with oiling the gasket, I fill it most of the way before I put it on. (Fill, dip fingertip in fresh oil inside filter, apply to gasket, screw filter onto mount.) In any case, I have not had the dreaded hesitation problem.

    Chris
  • commessocommesso Member Posts: 3
    Can anybody advise how best to clean the Wood Trim
    and for that matter is it real wood trim (in the Forester 2001)?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Chris: thanks for the preventetive tip. It may or may not help, but easy as it is, it's worth doing.

    Karen: good luck with your case, let us know how it goes. If you decide to get another Soob (you must otherwise really like the vehicle), try an extensive test drive. Stop and restart the engine a couple of times, try merging, slowing and speeding up again, etc. Take someone else with you and have them drive a bit, too. Then purchase the exact car you drove.

    commesso: no, it's plood (plastic wood). Clean it as you would any plastic surface. Be careful not to scratch the finish, not to create swirls, and use a mild cleaner.

    -juice
  • mailman54mailman54 Member Posts: 111
    A.J. Where can I find QSubaru for the oil filter parts. Went to AOL@QSubaru.com and only got the AOL home page. How do I get from the AOL home page to the QSubaru web page.

    Thanks,

    Mailman
This discussion has been closed.