Thanks for the follow up. I'm glad that things worked out in the end, and sorry that SOA let it go to court. Good luck with your replacement. I'll be test driving as much as possible before buying as well.
I know first hand how dangerous a hesitation problem can be. Your car dies in the middle of an intersection, the other drivers get taken off guard; even if they don't hit you, they get irritated and road rage ensues. Everyone please drive safely.
If you would like to see for yourself go to this web site VMag.com and go to the forums section, then select subaru outback/forester. Do a search on the word hesitation. I was just amazed at what I learned there. I used this info in my case. The info is on 99 & 00 Outbacks and 98-00 Foresters, but it is supposed to be for manual transmissions. My 99 Forester is an automatic. Also in that web if you look into it enough you will come up with a copy of a Subaru service bulletin on hesitation on acceleration. If you go to your dealer and request an official copy it will state the vehicles it pertains to on the reverse side. The dealer, by law, can't refuse to give you a copy of this. The bulletin # is 11-53-98, also 11-58-99, as I have said before, my vehicle is not listed on this bulletin because it is auto. I guess maybe they should update their bulletin. After you check out the site,let me know what you think about it. Karen
In the extreme conditions you describe, I'm going to assume the pressure differential inside/outside the window is so great that the window is simply lifted off the seal. I don't know that any amount of fiddling with it will help. It might help to play around with the window tracks inside the door, with the intention of angling the window inward and perhaps creating more inward pressure against the seal. I'd be careful doing this however.
Did anybody else notice that the seat belt buckles on the drivers' side of the 2000 Outbacks were installed backwards?
At least they were backwards on both my new OB and my friend's Limited (both purchased in Oregon). Not only does that make the belt twist across your waist, but the retracted buckle then faces OUT towards the trim rather than IN towards the driver--- so the trim gets scratched.
Mccair: My dealer adjusted the driver door window on my OB to eliminate windnoise...it worked. As described by francophile, they adjusted the angle of window so that there was a tighter seal when the door was closed. You may wish to suggest this to your dealer. Careful though...if they over compensate, you will really have to slam the door to get it closed.
Cjudy: I too noticed my fans cycling on and off upon start up. It only occurred a couple of mornings and has not happened since. Please let us know if a solution is found.
Other soob probs:
- rattle in front end - suspension - when driving over bumps - rattle from passenger door area, front...sounds like a screw got loose and is rattling against steel. - rear head rest doesn't lock. - not sure if one of my rear brakes is engaging when using handbrake....noticed this during my switch from my winter wheels to summer wheels.
Will have them checked out at next oil change which...likely next week.
Karen: congrats on the case, and sorry you even had to go through that. Hopefully they'll learn a lesson, particularly that their customers are becoming well informed and will share their experiences.
Mary: you may be able to add a tach, but you'd probably have to change the entire dash board - isn't the fuel guage there?
I'd pass, though. The L has ABS and that tach, plus a roof rack that is IMO a necessity - the roof is shaped for one and looks silly to me without it.
CJ: I think it may be asking a lot for your mechanic to own a Subaru. He's probably tired of seeing them by the end of the day
But you do raise a good point - it would be nice to have mechanics specialize on one brand, i.e. Subaru only.
The dealer I bought from installed cruise control for me. It's Farrish Olds-Subaru, but the focus is clearly on Oldsmobile. You even get service at the Olds dealer across the street!
Haven't gone back there!
Fitzgerald Subaru is still a multi-brand dealer, but at least the service is on-site and they have a "Team" that works only on Subarus.
Someone even suggested this before. It would be nice to know a good mechanice that specialized in Subaru, particularly one with knowledge of mods that can be done.
Enjoy reading all posts on Subaru and helpful comments of Juice, Mike, Dave, and others. I am on my second Subaru. First was 97 Outback. Now have 00 Outback Limited. I am really pleased with the vehicle except for two things. I live in the mountains in extreme western North Carolina and to get to my home must travel a two-mile single-lane gravel road with some steep inclines. I generally have to use first gear, this vehicle has a manual transmission, going up the mountain. Whenever I stop on an incline it is most difficult to get enough power to begin moving again. Sometimes it takes several attempts to begin moving forward. Then the worst smell is present (I liken it to dead fish mixed with burned motor oil). Has anyone out there had this problem when driving slowly up mountainous terrain? Dealer said they would have to duplicate the problem and they have not been able to do so.
The other problem is a loose sound in the front end suspension when coming down the mountain on the gravel road.
Glenn: sounds (smells?) like you're burning your clutch a bit.
The garage at work has an extremely steep entrance, and I have to stop to swipe my ID to get in.
Too bad the hill holders are gone!
But back to my point. What I do is apply the handbrake, but hold the button in with my thumb. That way, when my left foot releases the brake, it holds the vehicle long enough for me to get to the clutch. When I accelerate, I feel a bit of feedback on the handbrake, and let it go slowly and then pull forward.
It took practice, but works great. My last car lasted 107k miles on the original clutch, and it was totalled so the clutch still had some life in it.
Hand-braking and then releasing when the clutch engages on hills is common in Europe, but not so often used in N.A.
It's a really good idea, because it takes the stress off your clutch mechanism, and you're likely not to roll back at all. It's also a really good way to teach someone how to drive standard, as rolling backwards on a hill is enough to scare most autotrans drivers...
That's the way I do it as well, it works and I never thought of doing it another way, uh ... when I'm playing I might let my car roll back, but on a steep hill, I use the handbrake.
That's definitely clutch you smell. A very interesting description of an organic clutch smell, btw. I smelled that the other night when sidestepped the clutch at 5000 rpm.
Re: <196</A>> Window Noise (mccrair) Mike, I haven't had this in the 00 GT wagon. Re: 196why does it happen only on the driver's side window, not the passenger side or on the two rear windows?Clubs, did you have passengers in those seats (that were close to their respective windows)? I've heard slight noises (not wind) that I could hear on the driver's side but the right front passenger couldn't. If there's noise at the other windows, maybe it's too far away from the driver's seat to hear.
Re: <205</A>> Karen, THANKS for the follow-up; always good to hear reports (good or bad) from the field.
Re: <216</A>> struggle up incline (gevans1). Glenn, thanks for the kudos. Unfortunately I can't offer more than juice, Ash, and Mary already have. I guess you could trade your 00 OB Ltd for an Australian version with the 15% "low"-range Thanks for posting the problem as I don't live in a hilly area; good to hear another perspective. Chris (torek) has a Forester but it's much lighter than an OB so he might not have had the same problem. Chris, you've conquered some serious hills on your trips, any suggestions?
Anybody out there ever experience a loud clicking/clunking noise when the transmission shifts.
I've got a 00 Outback Limited with an auto transmission. Sometimes there's a somewhat loud clicking (clunking?) noise when the transmission shifts. It's accompanied by a hard shift. Seems to happen more when the outside temperature is warm. It can be heard in the car with the window rolled up, but is louder outside the car.
Any ideas out there. The noise has been happening for about 1000 miles and hasn't gotten worse. I'm planning to take it to the dealer, but was hoping to direct them to a possible problem since I'll have to get the noise to reoccur with the service advisor along for a ride.
Hi Boys- I've got a 2000 OB Wagon, with the AUTO transmission. I noticed, crawling around under it on day one, that there's a filter that looks very very similar to the crankcase oil filter, except that this one is on or near the auto tranny fluid pan and plumbing.
That's right. It's not the engine filter. I've changed that bad boy. There is no mention of this second filter in the owner's manual. Do you suppose it's a sexy auto trans fluid filter, and that its lifetime is 50,000 miles or so?
I guess I could do the obvious and ask the Subaru service guys. But your answers are much more brutal, and more likely to be accurate.
Hey, the forest fires make for spectacular sunsets. Su amigo en Nuevo Mexico, psycho
Exlemonowner: Thank you for taking your cause as far as possible. All Sube owners will benefit.
Don: Thanks for the Libertyville Sube reference. I'll give them a try. But first; I'm going to take the salesman whom sold me the car out for dinner. Hopefully, I can convince him to put pressure on senior management for service improvements. They are open to criticism. Based on the growing number of Subaru sales, it would be in their best interest.
I'll keep you posted. (Keep biking, maybe I'll see you on a Sunday Mafia ride.)
Drivers Seat: Aside from small various mechanical problems with the 2000OB, I was wondering... Has anybody else noticed a padding (seat cushion) flaw in the OB drivers seat? I swear it feels like my right cheek is sinking lower than the left. At first I thought it was because I put my fat wallet in my right pocket all the time. So now, I pull my wallet out every time I drive the car. But, it still feels like it's lower than the left side. Anyone else notice this???? ( Should I see the neighborhood Sube Chiropractor?)
I have the auto transmission in my Forester, so I just `go'. (Actually there are a few good hills right here where I live, where if I take my foot off the brake while waiting, the car will roll backwards even with the auto tranny....)
My Integra is a stick though, and I can attest to the hand-brake method. The only time this did not work well for me was once when I got my car back from valet parking in San Francisco. I think the valet driver got the clutch overheated; it slipped like mad on a San Francisco hill. I had to stop and let it cool for a bit, and then it was fine.
The handbrake-on-hill trick was how my dad taught me to pull out on hills when he first taught me to drive, which was in a stick shift car ('68 BMW 1600, which I later bashed head-on into a tree). I always thought of it as a learning tool, to be set aside when one got good with the clutch, but in steep situations I still use it today.
As for handbrakes not stopping the rear wheels from turning: I believe the handbrake on Subies is on the driveshaft between the transfer case and the rear differential, which means that the entire rear is free to act as it will when the wheels are raised off the ground.
Thanks for all the helpful comments regarding my problem here in the mountains of western North Carolina. I do use the handbrake in steep situations, but I am wondering at the lack of power to get the vehicle moving. I would not think the engine should bog down in these situations. If I don't engage the clutch the engine will just quit.
The only thing I can think of to give you more power is to rev up the rpms to around 3000-4000 rpm, and then slowly release the clutch. The torque transfer will be immediate, and you definitely will not stall the car, though it will sound quite loud. If you do it fast enough, you won't burn the clutch (as much).
Yep that is a filter for the automatic transmission for the 2.65 engine. Funny thing though when you ask the service people about it they look confused like you have two heads and it took the longest time for the parts guy to find it. Even in the Forester shop manuals which I have a set it dosen't even mention when to change it. I was going to try this summer and see what kind of mess it makes (how much fluid spills out)at least you don't have to drop the pan to change the filter.
Next time I bring my 00 Outback into the dealer for an oil change, I will ask them to adjust my window, as was suggested. (Put more pressure inwards). I didn't know that such an adjustment was possible.
By the way, I'm certain that it is just the drivers side window with this problem: The noise is -very- loud when it happens (which is infrequently, only with very high winds), and only happens on the drivers side window. At least on one occasion, I had four people in the car, and only my window made the noise.
Also, for what it's worth, I have had no hesitation problems (manual transmission). The only other blip I've had is an oxygen sensor that crapped out, causing my 'check engine' light to come on. I'm still waiting for that part to be delivered to my dealer in order to have it replaced. We love the car...(my wife tries to sell it to everyone who asks about it, very funny and cute).
WDB: brutally honest, dude. At least it wasn't a precious 2002!
I like ash's suggestion. On that hill, you want to be making peak torque, so put the tach right at 4000rpm and release the clutch slowly, simultaneously releasing the hand brake.
I checked out the vmag.com subaru forum for the hesitation problem. It seems that the problems effected many subarus models, but fewer '00 cars are having the problem or the cars are still too new; it's one of those nightmarish problems that can have numerous causes and can be very hard to diagnose nevermind fix. I just hope ...
>>Did anybody else notice that the seat belt buckles on the drivers' side of the 2000 Outbacks were installed backwards?<<
Not the case in my 00 Legacy L Wagon. However... in nearly any car the buckle can get twisted backward. My wife somehow managed to do this on a regular basis in my Dodge Shadow. I'd get in after she had driven it, and the buckle would be backward. It would take me a couple of minutes to get it back in the correct position. You should be able to correct yours too with a little effort. What you do is fold the belt over, not straight across, but in a diagonal crease, using about 3-4 inches of the belt's length. Then slowly work the buckle down over the crease to the other side of it. This takes some patience and good finger strength, but when you get it past the fold, the buckle will be facing the other way on the belt from where it started. If you're not sure if you want to try it yourself, the next time you have it at the dealers, make them do it.
I just received two fumoto oil change valves in the mail. These allow you to change oil without having to mess with drain bolts.They are cleverly and well made. IMHO, run, do not walk, to www.fumotovalve.com and check it out.
I got a version that allows one to connect a tube to the valve. Now if I can just figure how to access the Forester oil filter without dumping the plastic shield underneath...
Wow Norman, this thing is great! I can attest that ball valves are superior to globe valves. I changed the main water shutoff (from the main in the street to my house) from a globe valve (the cheezy thing usually found on a hose bib (that's where you connect your garden hose)) with a ball valve. Natural gas shutoff valves to my furnace, dryer, stove, and water heater are also ball valves.
VERY good work Norman. Now run out to that Forester and install them (without change the oil and let us know how they work! What a great labor-saving device!
That Fumoto drain valve looks very interesting and practical. I also changed oils for syntetic oils (Mobil1 + gear oil) last weekend. Now my 2000 OB (7,500 km) is ready for big trip to west coast- Oshawa Ont.- Calgary AB- Vancouver BC -Seattle Wa and back home through Northen States. So Futomo will be on my way and I'll pay them a visit in Bellevue Wa. Jurek
The valve looks interesting, and could save me from the mess I end up with each time, though I've learned to use latex gloves!
One issue, though. You may lose some clearance, since the plug is at the bottom of the oil pan. I'm also concerned that it may rub on the Forester's plastic cover, or get damaged while off the beaten path.
You can see the crescent wrench hangs off the plug. It's angled downward diagonally. I'd have to get in there and see how much it would affect clearance.
PS That plastic shield doesn't do much besides keep the engine compartment clean. Folks that off road have seen it tear off, and usually remove it. They also remove the mud guards, which can act like scoops while in the sand.
Jurek2, that's some trip you got planned! I flew out to Calgary last year and rented a car and drove it through the Rocky Mountains to Victoria and back. What a trip!! Talk about unbelievable scenery. Should be a good test for the Outback. Let us know how it goes!
Hi, I should have a new Forester next week and I would like to protect the fabric as much as possible. I've never used Scotchguard before - do you just spray and go? Are there any tips/ tricks to using it? Does it just go on the seats or on the floor mats and cargo space as well?
I have Scotchguarded by 97 OB, 01 Forester, as well as previous vehicles. Label says to keep it off plastic surfaces (I just wipe off the overspray before it dries). I spilled a whole cup of coffee in the drivers seat of my OB and it cleaned up easily. I did hear recently that it is being taken off the market, discontinued by the manuf. for evvironmental concerns.
Thanks for the link, Barry. You prompted me to search for more as the 3M release explains little. This MSNBC article explains the problems with perfluorooctanyl sulfonate (PFOS) in Scotchgard. This MSNBC article has stain removal tips. Here's a different 3M press release but sans much information.
I have been lurking at the Town Hall forums for some time as I did research on buying a new car. It had come down to a choice between a VW Passat 4motion – a very cool drive, and my husband loved the Tiptronic -- or the Subaru Outback. Weighing all factors and considering practicality I decided on the Outback.
I did the deed through Autobytel to get a quote and in a short time had purchased the Wintergreen Outback with AT, and a few other options. This is my first AWD and I am really looking forward to a more “secure” winter driving experience! I love the way the car feels stuck to the road on turns and curves.
I picked up the brand new car (I hadn’t test driven THIS car because it was still “in wraps” at the time of my other drives and when I did pick it up at the end of the day last Friday, I just took it and it’s wonderful 14 mile odometer and headed home.
I noticed the car drifted/pulled to the left. I believe cars are supposed to tend to the right if the steering wheel is let go, correct? For safety reasons better the ditch than oncoming traffic.
Then I found the power window motor on the driver’s side made a medium loud grinding noise during raising. (Other windows do not).
The front washers do not operate.
And the car road stiff and jolty over rough road or RR tracks.
I checked the tire pressure and all tires were at 40 psi. After putting them to 30/front and 29/rear as recommended in the manual I had a much nicer ride but still the drift to the left.
I called the service dept this A.M. The manager was very nice over the phone. I am to bring the car in Thursday. He said that Subarus are designed to ride the “crown of the road, whether it is right or left”. I said “surely the car isn’t supposed to drift over the center line? And told him it did this regardless of what road surface I’d been on. (Besides, I would assume the “crown” of a road was its center so that water drains to the sides). He said they’d test drive it to see if it was “normal” or not. I suggested an alignment and he said they would see if that was nec.
When I told him about the 40 psi pressure in the tires he said they always fill the tires to their max capacity “because they last longer” that way. I laughingly said, “Yeah the side tread never wears out”.
I have already fallen in love with the car. I am taking a very positive attitude that all will be put right when it goes in on tThursday. I guess what I would like to know is if anyone else thinks the serv. Manager’s answers were correct or not? I really, really want to have faith in the dealer’s service but there are two other Subaru dealers in the area I just don’t know how they would treat me as I didn’t buy the car from them.
Am I being prematurely jumpy??? I hope so. Thanks for ANY input. These forums are SO informative and helpful!
Oh dear, the above was long...but I have one more question. I bought two cans of Scotchguard yesterday to do the upholstery (do you do carpets and mats too?) THEN I read the above post and links re: Scotchguard. I think I'll go ahead (might even run out and stock up before its gonne) or do you think that's dangerous??? ;o) anyone had any of the listed symptoms after Scotchguarding?
I wouldn't be concerned about using the two cans of Scotchgard, but there's not much point in cornering the market either. With or without the treatment, soap and water will clean your upholstery and carpeting quite well. Don't forget, a pair of floormats can be thrown away if they get too filthy and you choose not to clean them anymore. The carpet under them will stay clean until you sell or trade your car.
miksmi:
I think we can all agree that the 3M announcement is a classic case of CYA, just in case...
>>Could the noise be telling you that your brake pads are getting a bit thin?<<
With 48k this could very well be the case.
>>I found the power window motor on the driver’s side made a medium loud grinding noise<<
That's definitely not right.
>>When I told him about the 40 psi pressure in the tires he said they always fill the tires to their max capacity “because they last longer” that way. I laughingly said, “Yeah the side tread never wears out”.<<
Actually they probably will last a little longer that way. Any pressure from the manufacturers recommended to the max listed on the tire can be used, depending on your load and how you like your ride to feel. Subaru says my Legacy should have 32psi front, 30psi rear, but that seemed to soft me. The tires will take up to 44psi. After a little experimentation, I've settled on 38psi front and 36psi rear which gives me a firm but not bumpy ride, with good handling characteristics.
As for the drifting, if it did happen on different roads and surfaces, it does sound like a problem. The second day I had my car I noticed it pulling to the side, and after a couple minutes of anxiety, I got on another road and it was fine. Good luck.
The whining noise being worn brakes is a definite possiblity. The sound will not change with the speed of the car as the doodad that makes the noise does not rotate. It also may have something to do with air conditioning, if it comes and goes, and/or one of the electric cooling fans.
For the new Outback owner: congratulations! You picked a good car, a good value. As you have already discovered, AWD isn't only for inclement weather, it enhances traction all the time. As for your questions:
- pulling to one side - it's the wheel alignment. My '00 GT came from the factory with the wheels misaligned; when the dealer fixed it under warranty, the car was transformed. Much more stable in highway driving. Most likely your wheels are toed out a bit. Make sure they do front AND rear alignment.
- tire pressure - 40 lbs is how they ship them from the factory, because they're going to be lashed down on a train car or trailer. The dealer probably didn't put that pressure in; along with the other things you found wrong it makes me suspect that they didn't do much of a job prepping the car. The person who gets the job of car prepping, as you might imagine, is not the top mechanic in the shop; often it is not a mechanic at all but just a car wash/car prep person, usually not paid much. That is by way of saying do not judge the quality of the dealer's service department by the delivery quality of the car. Take it back and get the washers fixed and the alignment fixed (soon - it wears tires) and the window motor fixed, and base your judgement of the service quality on the quality of the job they do.
Don't be confused by the 44 psi rating molded into your tire's sidewall. That has nothing to do with how much pressure YOU should ride with. It is only the manufacturer's statement, or disclaimer, of what is the maximum burst pressure that the particular model of tire can sustain without exploding.
You should only inflate your tires to the pressures that the vehicle manufacturer specifies for your particular car model and tire size combination. That information is printed on the sticker that you will find on the front door post near the lock (right or left side, depending on the particular car). Overinflation can cause dangerous handling and premature wear on the CENTER of the tire's tread. (Underinflation causes its own kind of dangerous handling and excess wear on the SIDES of the tire's tread.)
The suite happy lawyers kill yet another fine product.Sad.
Went out and got 8 cans of various types. This stuff really works. In addition to helping with radical, immediate stains, it definitely slows down the slow accumulation of dirt over time.
Don't know what the outdoors crowd is going to do re: rain protection. Even goretex benefits from scotchguard.
Thank you for your responses to my concerns about tire pressure/alignment etc. You are reassuring me. I will certainly go in Thursday with a calmer attitude and with the happy expectation that all will be "straightened" out! ) If it is -- I'll be a devoted customer forever.
Now I'm going to go wash my car and Scotchguard the upholstery!
Kathy: I agree that the alignment needs to be checked, plus the driver's window, which sounds like it slipped off its track. The front washer can also be fixed, probably quick and easy.
BTW, congrats on the purchase and welcome aboard!
As for the tires, I believe they are delivered that way from the factory so they do not develop "flat spots". That high pressure is a practice used by many enthusiasts that store their cars for long periods. Some even go as far as using jack stands to take the tires off the ground!
Sounds like the dealer didn't do a thorough PDI (pre-delivery inspection), which should have meant defalting those tires.
See how they perform this time. If they can fix it all in one go, I'd stick with them. If not, peel off whatever dealer stickers they put on yours, and have it serviced at the other dealerships.
If they ask where you bought it, just say you're pretty sure your husband bought it there.
I didn't think about brake whine, but that should only occur when applying the brakes. You shouldn't hear squeeking in normal driving. Either way, I'd get that fixed right away; you don't want to warp your rotors.
Don't be confused by the 44 psi rating molded into your tire's sidewall. That has nothing to do with how much pressure YOU should ride with.<<
Thank you for your concern. However we've been over this before. Although some people might like the car manufacturers recommended inflation pressures for the softer ride, my wagon handles much better with more pressure in them. No way I'll drive around with only 30psi in my tires.
>>It is only the manufacturer's statement, or disclaimer, of what is the maximum burst pressure that the particular model of tire can sustain without exploding.<<
The sidewall pressure is the max COLD pressure you can put in that tire and drive it safely. In other words, as soon as you start driving on that tire in which you put the max 44psi, the heat causes the pressure to increase, something the tire manufacturer takes into account. I drove for years on tires at max pressure, and never had a blow out. They wore fairly evenly too.
Have to agree with 2ndwnd on this one; my GT is a happier, stabler, better handling car with 36 to 38 lbs in the tires than it is at the manufacturer's recommended pressures (although it is a tad less grippy in the wet, but I'm currently blaming that on the factory tires - I'll find out if I'm right when it's time to replace them). The max pressure on the side of the tire is either a federal mandate or a lawsuit-induced necessity, possibly both, but a tire will not explode off the rim if it is inflated above that number. When I autocrossed I routinely put 50 lbs in my tires. Mind you, autocrossing is a relatively low speed endeavor; dunno if I'd pump them up like that for a blast down the autobahn!
Comments
I know first hand how dangerous a hesitation problem can be. Your car dies in the middle of an intersection, the other drivers get taken off guard; even if they don't hit you, they get irritated and road rage ensues. Everyone please drive safely.
Mary
Your comments are indeed helpful to me and I'm sure countless others.
Mary
Karen
Cheers,
WDB
At least they were backwards on both my new OB and my friend's Limited (both purchased in Oregon). Not only does that make the belt twist across your waist, but the retracted buckle then faces OUT towards the trim rather than IN towards the driver--- so the trim gets scratched.
Cheers,
WDB
Cjudy: I too noticed my fans cycling on and off upon start up. It only occurred a couple of mornings and has not happened since. Please let us know if a solution is found.
Other soob probs:
- rattle in front end - suspension - when driving over bumps
- rattle from passenger door area, front...sounds like a screw got loose and is rattling against steel.
- rear head rest doesn't lock.
- not sure if one of my rear brakes is engaging when using handbrake....noticed this during my switch from my winter wheels to summer wheels.
Will have them checked out at next oil change which...likely next week.
Karen: congrats on the case, and sorry you even had to go through that. Hopefully they'll learn a lesson, particularly that their customers are becoming well informed and will share their experiences.
Mary: you may be able to add a tach, but you'd probably have to change the entire dash board - isn't the fuel guage there?
I'd pass, though. The L has ABS and that tach, plus a roof rack that is IMO a necessity - the roof is shaped for one and looks silly to me without it.
CJ: I think it may be asking a lot for your mechanic to own a Subaru. He's probably tired of seeing them by the end of the day
But you do raise a good point - it would be nice to have mechanics specialize on one brand, i.e. Subaru only.
The dealer I bought from installed cruise control for me. It's Farrish Olds-Subaru, but the focus is clearly on Oldsmobile. You even get service at the Olds dealer across the street!
Haven't gone back there!
Fitzgerald Subaru is still a multi-brand dealer, but at least the service is on-site and they have a "Team" that works only on Subarus.
Someone even suggested this before. It would be nice to know a good mechanice that specialized in Subaru, particularly one with knowledge of mods that can be done.
-juice
The other problem is a loose sound in the front end suspension when coming down the mountain on the gravel road.
Comments would be appreciated.
Glenn
The garage at work has an extremely steep entrance, and I have to stop to swipe my ID to get in.
Too bad the hill holders are gone!
But back to my point. What I do is apply the handbrake, but hold the button in with my thumb. That way, when my left foot releases the brake, it holds the vehicle long enough for me to get to the clutch. When I accelerate, I feel a bit of feedback on the handbrake, and let it go slowly and then pull forward.
It took practice, but works great. My last car lasted 107k miles on the original clutch, and it was totalled so the clutch still had some life in it.
-juice
It's a really good idea, because it takes the stress off your clutch mechanism, and you're likely not to roll back at all. It's also a really good way to teach someone how to drive standard, as rolling backwards on a hill is enough to scare most autotrans drivers...
Mary
-Colin
Re: 196why does it happen only on the driver's side window, not the passenger side or on the two rear windows?Clubs, did you have passengers in those seats (that were close to their respective windows)? I've heard slight noises (not wind) that I could hear on the driver's side but the right front passenger couldn't. If there's noise at the other windows, maybe it's too far away from the driver's seat to hear.
Re: <205</A>> Karen, THANKS for the follow-up; always good to hear reports (good or bad) from the field.
Re: <216</A>> struggle up incline (gevans1). Glenn, thanks for the kudos. Unfortunately I can't offer more than juice, Ash, and Mary already have. I guess you could trade your 00 OB Ltd for an Australian version with the 15% "low"-range
..Mike
..Mike
I've got a 00 Outback Limited with an auto transmission. Sometimes there's a somewhat loud clicking (clunking?) noise when the transmission shifts. It's accompanied by a hard shift. Seems to happen more when the outside temperature is warm. It can be heard in the car with the window rolled up, but is louder outside the car.
Any ideas out there. The noise has been happening for about 1000 miles and hasn't gotten worse. I'm planning to take it to the dealer, but was hoping to direct them to a possible problem since I'll have to get the noise to reoccur with the service advisor along for a ride.
That's right. It's not the engine filter. I've changed that bad boy. There is no mention of this second filter in the owner's manual. Do you suppose it's a sexy auto trans fluid filter, and that its lifetime is 50,000 miles or so?
I guess I could do the obvious and ask the Subaru service guys. But your answers are much more brutal, and more likely to be accurate.
Hey, the forest fires make for spectacular sunsets.
Su amigo en Nuevo Mexico,
psycho
Thank you for taking your cause as far as possible. All Sube owners will benefit.
Don:
Thanks for the Libertyville Sube reference. I'll give them a try. But first; I'm going to take the salesman whom sold me the car out for dinner. Hopefully, I can convince him to put pressure on senior management for service improvements. They are open to criticism. Based on the growing number of Subaru sales, it would be in their best interest.
I'll keep you posted.
(Keep biking, maybe I'll see you on a Sunday Mafia ride.)
Drivers Seat:
Aside from small various mechanical problems with the 2000OB, I was wondering... Has anybody else noticed a padding (seat cushion) flaw in the OB drivers seat? I swear it feels like my right cheek is sinking lower than the left. At first I thought it was because I put my fat wallet in my right pocket all the time. So now, I pull my wallet out every time I drive the car. But, it still feels like it's lower than the left side. Anyone else notice this???? ( Should I see the neighborhood Sube Chiropractor?)
CJ
My Integra is a stick though, and I can attest to the hand-brake method. The only time this did not work well for me was once when I got my car back from valet parking in San Francisco. I think the valet driver got the clutch overheated; it slipped like mad on a San Francisco hill. I had to stop and let it cool for a bit, and then it was fine.
Chris
As for handbrakes not stopping the rear wheels from turning: I believe the handbrake on Subies is on the driveshaft between the transfer case and the rear differential, which means that the entire rear is free to act as it will when the wheels are raised off the ground.
Regards,
WDB
-- ash
Next time I bring my 00 Outback into the dealer for an oil change, I will ask them to adjust my window, as was suggested. (Put more pressure inwards). I didn't know that such an adjustment was possible.
By the way, I'm certain that it is just the drivers side window with this problem: The noise is -very- loud when it happens (which is infrequently, only with very high winds), and only happens on the drivers side window. At least on one occasion, I had four people in the car, and only my window made the noise.
Also, for what it's worth, I have had no hesitation problems (manual transmission). The only other blip I've had is an oxygen sensor that crapped out, causing my 'check engine' light to come on. I'm still waiting for that part to be delivered to my dealer in order to have it replaced. We love the car...(my wife tries to sell it to everyone who asks about it, very funny and cute).
Mike
I like ash's suggestion. On that hill, you want to be making peak torque, so put the tach right at 4000rpm and release the clutch slowly, simultaneously releasing the hand brake.
-juice
Mary J
Not the case in my 00 Legacy L Wagon. However... in nearly any car the buckle can get twisted backward. My wife somehow managed to do this on a regular basis in my Dodge Shadow. I'd get in after she had driven it, and the buckle would be backward. It would take me a couple of minutes to get it back in the correct position. You should be able to correct yours too with a little effort. What you do is fold the belt over, not straight across, but in a diagonal crease, using about 3-4 inches of the belt's length. Then slowly work the buckle down over the crease to the other side of it. This takes some patience and good finger strength, but when you get it past the fold, the buckle will be facing the other way on the belt from where it started. If you're not sure if you want to try it yourself, the next time you have it at the dealers, make them do it.
Dave
I got a version that allows one to connect a tube to the valve. Now if I can just figure how to access the Forester oil filter without dumping the plastic shield underneath...
Norman
VERY good work Norman. Now run out to that Forester and install them (without change the oil
..Mike
..Mike
practical. I also changed oils for syntetic oils
(Mobil1 + gear oil) last weekend. Now my 2000 OB (7,500 km) is ready for big trip to west coast-
Oshawa Ont.- Calgary AB- Vancouver BC -Seattle Wa
and back home through Northen States. So Futomo will be on my way and I'll pay them a visit in Bellevue Wa.
Jurek
One issue, though. You may lose some clearance, since the plug is at the bottom of the oil pan. I'm also concerned that it may rub on the Forester's plastic cover, or get damaged while off the beaten path.
Here's a photo of the oil pan:
http://thejuiceman.homepage.com/oil.html
You can see the crescent wrench hangs off the plug. It's angled downward diagonally. I'd have to get in there and see how much it would affect clearance.
-juice
ash
would like to protect the fabric as much as
possible. I've never used Scotchguard before -
do you just spray and go? Are there any tips/
tricks to using it? Does it just go on the seats
or on the floor mats and cargo space as well?
Thank you.
Dave
http://www.3m.com/about3M/worldwide/release.html
..Mike
..Mike
Can you tell where it's coming from? Does it get better/worse in hot weather? High speeds? Is fuel efficiency affected?
-juice
I did the deed through Autobytel to get a quote and in a short time had purchased the Wintergreen Outback with AT, and a few other options. This is my first AWD and I am really looking forward to a more “secure” winter driving experience! I love the way the car feels stuck to the road on turns and curves.
I picked up the brand new car (I hadn’t test driven THIS car because it was still “in wraps” at the time of my other drives and when I did pick it up at the end of the day last Friday, I just took it and it’s wonderful 14 mile odometer and headed home.
I noticed the car drifted/pulled to the left. I believe cars are supposed to tend to the right if the steering wheel is let go, correct? For safety reasons better the ditch than oncoming traffic.
Then I found the power window motor on the driver’s side made a medium loud grinding noise during raising. (Other windows do not).
The front washers do not operate.
And the car road stiff and jolty over rough road or RR tracks.
I checked the tire pressure and all tires were at 40 psi. After putting them to 30/front and 29/rear as recommended in the manual I had a much nicer ride but still the drift to the left.
I called the service dept this A.M. The manager was very nice over the phone. I am to bring the car in Thursday. He said that Subarus are designed to ride the “crown of the road, whether it is right or left”. I said “surely the car isn’t supposed to drift over the center line? And told him it did this regardless of what road surface I’d been on. (Besides, I would assume the “crown” of a road was its center so that water drains to the sides). He said they’d test drive it to see if it was “normal” or not. I suggested an alignment and he said they would see if that was nec.
When I told him about the 40 psi pressure in the tires he said they always fill the tires to their max capacity “because they last longer” that way. I laughingly said, “Yeah the side tread never wears out”.
I have already fallen in love with the car. I am taking a very positive attitude that all will be put right when it goes in on tThursday. I guess what I would like to know is if anyone else thinks the serv. Manager’s answers were correct or not? I really, really want to have faith in the dealer’s service but there are two other Subaru dealers in the area I just don’t know how they would treat me as I didn’t buy the car from them.
Am I being prematurely jumpy??? I hope so. Thanks for ANY input. These forums are SO informative and helpful!
I wouldn't be concerned about using the two cans of Scotchgard, but there's not much point in cornering the market either. With or without the treatment, soap and water will clean your upholstery and carpeting quite well. Don't forget, a pair of floormats can be thrown away if they get too filthy and you choose not to clean them anymore. The carpet under them will stay clean until you sell or trade your car.
miksmi:
I think we can all agree that the 3M announcement is a classic case of CYA, just in case...
My friend's wife makes one of those regularly too. Oh!...sorry, I forgot, you were asking about your vehicle.
Could the noise be telling you that your brake pads are getting a bit thin?
pads are getting a bit thin?<<
With 48k this could very well be the case.
>>I found the power window motor on the
driver’s side made a medium loud grinding noise<<
That's definitely not right.
>>When I told him about the 40 psi pressure in the
tires he said they always fill the tires to their
max capacity “because they last longer” that way.
I laughingly said, “Yeah the side tread never
wears out”.<<
Actually they probably will last a little longer that way. Any pressure from the manufacturers recommended to the max listed on the tire can be used, depending on your load and how you like your ride to feel. Subaru says my Legacy should have 32psi front, 30psi rear, but that seemed to soft me. The tires will take up to 44psi. After a little experimentation, I've settled on 38psi front and 36psi rear which gives me a firm but not bumpy ride, with good handling characteristics.
As for the drifting, if it did happen on different roads and surfaces, it does sound like a problem. The second day I had my car I noticed it pulling to the side, and after a couple minutes of anxiety, I got on another road and it was fine. Good luck.
Dave
For the new Outback owner: congratulations! You picked a good car, a good value. As you have already discovered, AWD isn't only for inclement weather, it enhances traction all the time. As for your questions:
- pulling to one side - it's the wheel alignment. My '00 GT came from the factory with the wheels misaligned; when the dealer fixed it under warranty, the car was transformed. Much more stable in highway driving. Most likely your wheels are toed out a bit. Make sure they do front AND rear alignment.
- tire pressure - 40 lbs is how they ship them from the factory, because they're going to be lashed down on a train car or trailer. The dealer probably didn't put that pressure in; along with the other things you found wrong it makes me suspect that they didn't do much of a job prepping the car. The person who gets the job of car prepping, as you might imagine, is not the top mechanic in the shop; often it is not a mechanic at all but just a car wash/car prep person, usually not paid much. That is by way of saying do not judge the quality of the dealer's service department by the delivery quality of the car. Take it back and get the washers fixed and the alignment fixed (soon - it wears tires) and the window motor fixed, and base your judgement of the service quality on the quality of the job they do.
Cheers,
WDB
francophile:
Don't be confused by the 44 psi rating molded into your tire's sidewall. That has nothing to do with how much pressure YOU should ride with. It is only the manufacturer's statement, or disclaimer, of what is the maximum burst pressure that the particular model of tire can sustain without exploding.
You should only inflate your tires to the pressures that the vehicle manufacturer specifies for your particular car model and tire size combination. That information is printed on the sticker that you will find on the front door post near the lock (right or left side, depending on the particular car). Overinflation can cause dangerous handling and premature wear on the CENTER of the tire's tread. (Underinflation causes its own kind of dangerous handling and excess wear on the SIDES of the tire's tread.)
Went out and got 8 cans of various types. This stuff really works. In addition to helping with radical, immediate stains, it definitely slows down the slow accumulation of dirt over time.
Don't know what the outdoors crowd is going to do re: rain protection. Even goretex benefits from scotchguard.
Now I'm going to go wash my car and Scotchguard the upholstery!
Thanks again for helping a novice!
--Kathy
BTW, congrats on the purchase and welcome aboard!
As for the tires, I believe they are delivered that way from the factory so they do not develop "flat spots". That high pressure is a practice used by many enthusiasts that store their cars for long periods. Some even go as far as using jack stands to take the tires off the ground!
Sounds like the dealer didn't do a thorough PDI (pre-delivery inspection), which should have meant defalting those tires.
See how they perform this time. If they can fix it all in one go, I'd stick with them. If not, peel off whatever dealer stickers they put on yours, and have it serviced at the other dealerships.
If they ask where you bought it, just say you're pretty sure your husband bought it there.
I didn't think about brake whine, but that should only occur when applying the brakes. You shouldn't hear squeeking in normal driving. Either way, I'd get that fixed right away; you don't want to warp your rotors.
-juice
francophile:
Don't be confused by the 44 psi rating molded into
your tire's sidewall. That has nothing to do with
how much pressure YOU should ride with.<<
Thank you for your concern. However we've been over this before. Although some people might like the car manufacturers recommended inflation pressures for the softer ride, my wagon handles much better with more pressure in them. No way I'll drive around with only 30psi in my tires.
Dave
only the manufacturer's statement, or disclaimer,
of what is the maximum burst pressure that the
particular model of tire can sustain without
exploding.<<
The sidewall pressure is the max COLD pressure you can put in that tire and drive it safely. In other words, as soon as you start driving on that tire in which you put the max 44psi, the heat causes the pressure to increase, something the tire manufacturer takes into account. I drove for years on tires at max pressure, and never had a blow out. They wore fairly evenly too.
Dave
Cheers,
WDB