Kia Sportage Prices Paid & Buying Experience

Karen_S

Share your Sportage purchase experience here!

mchugh2001

I went to Capitol Kia in Austin, Texas, and I offered $19k even before mfr incentives for a loaded 2007 Sportage EX V6 w/ leather. The sticker (before the non-value-added extras) was about $23100. We haggled a bit and we shook hands on $19500. I was very explicit that this was before manufacturer incentives. The credit approval was taking too long, and we had a prior obligation that we could not miss, so we told them we'd come back. When we came back, we were taken to the Business Manager's office, who tried to add back in $1500 for some reason. Then we told him this was pre-manufacturer incentives, and he tried to add back in only $1000 because we wanted to finance. In other words, he was saying he would only do the deal if the agreed price was after manufacturer incentives. I understand if they changed their minds (you could say it was our fault for leaving), but after this, all of the managers and salespeople were very rude and were not willing to even talk after that. We also got in the middle of an argument over which salesperson would get credit for the sale.

I recommend that you look at other dealerships before this one. But, I hope this gives you some idea of what kind of discounting is available. It would be a very very good deal if it had happened.

mchugh2001

UPDATE!
We brought our 2007 Kia Sportage EX V6 w/ leather home tonight. Rob, the finance guy at Capitol Kia, had mentioned during our previous visit that if we wanted to come back he would still do the deal at $19500+TTL (after mfr rebate). We went to another dealer, who was unwilling to negotiate, so we called Capitol Kia back. After looking at tons and tons of numbers, I thought this was still a good deal. We mentioned the student discount again and they said they could only do it if they could get the student discount to be stackable, which we read it to be, so that in the end they'd do it at $19600. BUT, when we got there they said it wasn't (of course). They showed me the fine print that they look at, so they then wanted to do the deal at $20k+TTL. Well, you know what happened next- we split the difference and I ended up at $19800+TTL, which was off of MSRP at $23300 or so ($1500 below invoice).

If you are ready to wheel and deal, then go to Capitol Kia and see Jimmy (sales) and Rob (finance). These guys knew what they'd have to do to win the business, while staying human.

marlam

I have been looking for a very specific car for months to no avail. I called Capital Kia on 183 in Austin and they assured me that they had what I was looking for for the 2nd time. I was VERY specific and said, I am not interested in looking at a car where I have to roll up my own windows but again I was assured they had what I wanted on the lot.

Lo and behold they did not. Once again they showed me a car that I had to roll up my own windows. The bottom line is that this car is a rare find and they wanted to sell me a Spectra. I firmly told them I had no interest in a Spectra. Mind you I had a bottom line price for what I would pay for the car I wanted period.

I told them I would be willing to consider a Sportage if they could meet my price and that I understood it to be less than would be possible. The guy wanted to give it a go and showed me his "close" price and asked if I wouId deal. Answer no, by this time they had a hold of my keys and would NOT give them back until I had to demand them for the 3rd time.

The fast talking manager asked me to please let him show me the figures on the computer which I agreed to. Bottom line I was not willing to go past X and his price was $500.00 over that. I basically shared that I now know I like the car, have no need for a brand new car and will look for a 2007.

Well at this point Mr. Manager decided to threaten me by telling me that he was in charge at that location and he would never give me this kind of deal on a kia rio. I told him sweetheart you DON'T have a kia rio sx5 with a power package and walked out so incredibly angry.

His point. I'm not taking a deal because of $500.00. My point this was $4,500 more than I planned to spend when they assured me they had the car I wanted.

Regardless, holding a customer's keys hostage and threatening them is NEVER a good idea and not only won't I buy there but the internet is now available for me to post this story.

tvcocco

So what did they want to seel the Sportage for? I think the Sportage may be my next car in May when my Jeep lease is up. I don't know if I want new or a 07. Any idea what a 4wd base Sportage is selling for?

backy

I got an offer on a 36 month lease for a Sportage LX I4 AT, with mats and wheel locks, for $220/month and $1000 total up front, which includes 7% sales tax (must be paid up front in MN), license, first payment, and a $50 doc fee. There is no acquisition fee (up front) or disposition fee (at lease end), which I was pleasantly surprised about. Also gap insurance is included. Money factor is .00065, which seems very good from what I have seen on other leases. The residual is $8925, but it's unlikely I'll buy at the end of the lease anyway.

How does it sound? Two other vehicles I priced that are in the same ballpark are an Impreza 2.5i Wagon AT (payments a little less, but more upfront cash) and a Milan I4 AT with alloys (payments a tad more, upfront a tad more). I am not having much success finding a lease for my target, which was payments around $200 and little or no cash out of pocket. Also, my wife, who will be the primary driver, likes the Sportage best.

tasteckler

I have been quoted the following OTD prices for the 2008 Sportage LX for the I4 and V6:

2008 Kia Sportage LX V6
-Cross Bars
-Carpeted Floor Mats
-Cargo Tray

$20,593 - Invoice
- $4,000 - Rebate
- $3,000 - Dealer Cash
+ $500 - Profit
+$399 Document Fee
= $14,492
+ $1,014 Tax (at 7%)
= $15,506 Drive Out

2008 Kia Sportage LX I4
-Cross Bars
-Carperted Floor Mats
-Cargo Tray

$19,751 - Invoice
- $4,000 - Rebate
- $3,000 - Dealer Cash
+ $500 - Profit
+ $399 Document Fee
= $13,650
+ $955 Tax (at 7%)
= $14,605 Drive Out

Any opinions on these offers? I am looking to buy this weekend. Thanks.

blueboar

I think these are reasonable offers. I have seem the Sportage LX I4 being offered at $13,000-$13,500 (plus ~$1000 tax and fees) in February. It also seems that there is a larger inventory of the V6 than that of the I4.

smoothsailin

They both sound like pretty good deals to me.

Three weeks ago I paid just over $16k otd for an '08 Rondo LX V6 equipped w/ the third row seating ($500), convenience package w/cruise & keyless entry ($300), Michelin tire upgrade ($60), bumper step protector ($65) and carpeted floor mats ($95). MSRP for my Rondo including freight was within $100 of "invoice" per the quote you received for a Sportage LX V6.

What the heck is "Dealer Cash"? Is this the discount allowed by the dealer...and is the amount to be allowed greater because you've already owned a Kia? I ended up paying dealer invoice for my Rondo ($1,477 under MSRP) before the $4k rebate.

Although I'm fairly pleased with what I paid for my Rondo ($15,088 before taxes & fees) in hindsight now believe I should have tried harder to negotiate a lower otd price. These are fairly standard add-ons, but still wish I'd negotiated reductions or eliminations for the following fees:
$399 dealer processing
$10 online system filing
$36.27 dealer's business license tax.

Oh well..

Btw, fyi I averaged 25+ and 26+ mpg for the first two tanks w/my Rondo V6. However, given all the complaints I've read about the 2.7 L V6 and fuel economy I probably would have purchased an I-4 model if there had been an '08 available on a local dealer's lot in the color (white) and equipped w/the the options I wanted. From what I've read on this and the Rondo owners forum it sure sounds like the fuel economy for these vehicles can suffer significantly when they're driven on short trips-and especially in cold weather.

Still, after test driving an Optima with the I-4 atx and two Rondos (both w/V-6 atx) I felt 2.7 L V-6 was smoother, quieter and more refined than the 2.5L I-4. Differences in hp and torque between the two engines was insignificant however. I do like extra gear in the V-6 models 5-speed automatic though, and the fact that it holds more automatic transmission fluid than does the I-4's 4-speed automatic. I've also read that the I-4 is based on a Mitsubishi design where the V-6 is Kia's design. Not sure whether that may be a plus or minus though since I've never owned a Kia or Mitsubishi before.

So far the only thing I don't like about the V-6 is Kia's use of a rubber timing belt which will need to be replaced @ 60k miles. Contrastingly, the timing chain in the I-4 could be expected to last the life of the engine.

jasonbourne

Got a quote of $17,964 before dealer fees and tax. Is this a good price?
This Dealer's Documentation Fee is $249
:confuse:

cgbr4d

Any info on the 2011 Sportage lease deals. Specifically, the residual and money factor on 36m, 15k/yr lease on an EX model? Thanks!

kiltman

Anyone know the November money factor and residual for a '11 LX AWD for 36 months and 15k miles?

kiltman

Sorry, EX model

bchamp28

This forum has been pretty dead recently, but does anyone have any recent experience in purchasing a 2011 Sportage LX AWD. I'm looking for pricing information on said model with convenience package in the CT area. Thanks!

datacomguy

Local dealership is claiming on the radio to offer a 5K incentive towards the purchase of a new Kia, with ANY trade-in.

Has anyone else heard of a similar deal in their area? I've emailed for more data, but this incentive is enough to drive me (no pun intended) towards a new Sportage EX that I might not have gotten otherwise. 20-22K is a lot more affordable than 28K.

tester1

May I ask where is this deal and which dealer? Sounds really good.

im2brad

I currently own a vehicle which CarMax has offered $28000 to purchase it from me. I am planning on purchasing a Kia Sport and took the vehicle for a trade-in appraisal, which turned out to be $27,300. In Ohio, if you trade a car, then the value of the trade is deducted from the amount to which sales tax is applied. In this case, by trading, I would escape around $1850.

It has always been said that it is preferable to do an"all cash deal v. a trade. On the face of it (without consideration of the sales tax), the trade-in approach is $700 inferior to selling my trade to CarMax. However, is sales tax six considered, then the advantage "appears" to be $1150 in the direction of the trade.

After reading many posts in this forum and the thread regarding leases, I am seeing individuals with purchase amounts that are $2000-$4000 below MSRP (with no trade). That being the case, then it appears as if the appropriate way to proceed is biased toward not trading and instead negotiating an all cash deal.

I am wondering what the more experienced members on this board think of this. Which way would you proceed. Also, I cam considering the potential of purchasing a 2011 model rather than a 2012 if I can expect a deal on an '11 to be a 10% or greater reduction in price v. a '12. I appreciate some general guidance on this as well.

chi_latte

I had a deal working on a fairly well loaded 2012 Ford Edge SEL FWD leather, which, after all numbers were crunched, was going to be $512/month for 60 months. This included 2k in rebates.

The vehicle seemed too big to me, the gas mileage wasn't the greatest, so I checked on a 2012 Kia Sportage EX FWD, loaded, with leather, NAV, sunroofs, 18", backup camera, etc..

After the numbers were crunched, it's $425/month for 60 months. There was a $500 competitive car rebate (for my Rogue trade-in). Of course I quickly signed on the dotted line, like a maroon.

Now, after reviewing the data more closely, I realize they're only giving me $11,100 for my 2008 Nissan Rogue SL (54k miles loaded with leather). The Ford dealer was offering me $16,000, plus he was discounting the Edge about 4k (*plus* 2k in rebates).

Here's how the Kia sales manager rope-a-doped me: "They can't move Ford Edge's; Kia's are much more popular; I can't keep these on the lot. I can go to Dallas right now and buy Rogues all day long for 16k...blah, blah, blah."

Here's my questions:

1. Did I make a terrible deal?
2. Can I get out of the deal, even though I signed the paperwork?
2.b. What if I offer them cash? Should I offer them cash? How much cash?
3. Just how bad a deal does this sound like?

Just call me "cold...feet."

kyfdx

Have you taken delivery?
Have you given them your trade?
Have you given them any money?

If the answer to all of these questions is NO, then just call them and tell them you changed your mind...

chi_latte

Haven't taken delivery, given them my trade, or given them any money. They had to do a vehicle trade with another Kia dealer so it took a couple of days to get here. Also, I had to work. We agreed to complete the deal tomorrow. I did sign a Motor Vehicle Retail Installment Sales Contract; received a copy of it in the mail today.

Don't want to leave them high and dry, but definitely don't feel good about this deal. Especially since I feel like the sales manager led me astray on the overall value of Kia Sportage versus Ford Edge, and the Edge's cost @ 60 months versus his...@ 72 months (didn't realize that till the finance manager explained it to me; took serious negotiating to get it down to $425, and then, the final amount still wasn't right...I realize this is my fault, I should've walked then until I had a chance to think: Bottom line, I was out-negotiated.)

Plan to see what I can do tomorrow; does it look bad with the paperwork already signed, and the vehicle dealer-to-dealer traded for?

kyfdx

They won't be happy about doing a dealer trade, and then not getting a sale.. but, I wouldn't make a $30K purchase just to keep them happy..

It might look bad, but I'd call them in the morning and tell them you have cold feet and don't want to do it... They can't really do anything about it.

If you aren't sure, you aren't sure.... Ideally, this isn't the way it should happen, but it did, so here you are.. If you think it's just a pre-buyer's remorse, then tell them you need another couple of days to think about it..

Good luck... let us know how it goes.

Sandman6472

Why are you dumping such a nice Rogue with such low mileage in the first place? I'll agree the Kia, and the Hyundai sister ute, are really nice rides but why get rid of the Rogue? Only reason I ask is that I sat in a few Rogues the other day and they seemed to be a nice truck, and one with such low mileage and leather should be a sweet ride. Or maybe it's just that you want something new. I personally prefer the Hyundai version but hey, that's just personal preference.

I agree with the others here...tell the dealer you're sorry, but you've changed your mind at this point. You don't even need to say that the money being offered on your trade is unacceptable...just that you've changed your mind at this time. Pretty sure they'll find another buyer for the dealer traded car. If you don't, you'll hate this car from day 1, not a good situation at all. Unwind the deal, keep what you have a bit longer & you'll be so much happier. If by the end of the year you still want the Rogue gone, try again. Sometimes just stepping back for awhile is the best course of action to take. You made a mistake...luckily it's not to late to get out of a bad decision.

Good luck and stay strong. After all, it's your $ at stake here.

The Sandman :sick: :shades:

chi_latte

Update: Bought the Kia Sportage EX loaded w/leather & NAV, and I'm very happy with the deal, and the vehicle! Fairly certain I made the best deal possible, all things considered:

1. The Rogue has been involved in several accidents and near-misses, most of which my insurance co. believes I was not at fault. Realistically, however...well, ima blame the Rogue's %$@ rear pillar, but it could also be any number of other factors. Bottom line, I believe it's under control now, but I need to start fresh with a new vehicle (that I want to keep 10+ years).

For the record, Kia dealer didn't ask about prior wrecks, so I didn't offer up any details...

2. The reason the "spread" was so ginormious between their Sportage and my Rogue trade-in was due to a dealer "add-on" that I wasn't aware of: $2,739 for dentless paint repair/leather hole repair/appearance insurance.

I couldn't figure out why it looked like fully-loaded Sportage EX's were out there for ~$27,600, yet their sales prices to me was $31,374. It was the "appearance insurance" which I didn't need or want.

Once we scrubbed that b.s., it reduced my monthly payments from $425 to $385 per month for 60 months.

Hope this info helps someone else. For the record, I feel real good about this deal!

kyfdx

Sounds good... You saved $2700 just by taking a deep breath and another look!

ppalonsky

Bought a Kia EX in South Florida. All the dealers here charge a dealer fee (read extra dealer profit) which they list on the sales contract as a fee. Here is the deal I worked out:

MSRP: $24,700 ($23,240 invoice per Edmunds without advertising fee)

Paid: $23,200 + $700 deal fee = $23,900

bar20

This is way late but maybe it will help someone else. The first thing I would do is look up your trade in value at Kelley Blue Book for your car. This is what a dealer should give you for your car. Let's say the KBB trade in value is $12k in very good condition. Ford offers you $14k and the KIA dealer offers $11k. The Ford dealer is giving you $2k extra from his profit while the KIA dealer is low balling your trade in by $1k. Never ever take less from the dealer for your trade in than KBB says its worth. Tell the dealer meet it or I'll beat it out your door. Don't listen to any B.S. about there are too many out on the market. A dealer tried that on us and I said I want what it's worth or good bye. They met my price. Ford tends to have more playing room in their MSRP than foreign manufactures. Also are you getting like options on both cars. Ford likes to piece meal their options while KIA has a package of items. Another is the warranty KIA is 5yrs/60k btb and Ford I think is 3yrs/36k. Do your homework before you enter the dealership. Know what your trade in is worth, what the dealer paid for the car and what other dealers are offering in discounts. Also know if the factory is offering any rebates that you can use.

alex150

I want to buy Kia sportage 2012 , do you have any idea about price ? what is the minimum price that I must offer to the dealer for Lx 2wd ?

Thanks

litobirdy

Hey, wanted to know, good deal or not? did i get ripped off or just about breaking even? 2k down including first months payment, fees all that stuff in there.
$359 36 months 12k miles.
Has the compass/homelink. seems to have the UVO stuff.
cargo net, cargo mat thingy, cargo cover. Door guards, hand painted trim lines, lifetime nitrogen in tires.
So?

sweetscars101

If you have signed a offer to purchase or sales agreement, or a worksheet, they can legally force you to take the vehicle. Depending on what you signed if it was a offer to purchase or similiar agreement, it is a leagally binding contract, even though you did not give them any money it is a legally binding contract. And as such they can legally force you to take the vehicle and cover there costs for doing so, court cost etc, cost of brining it in, judge may decide to cancel contract but you need a darn good reason, and often will make you cover the dealerships costs, of cancelling the deal, hope this helps.

kyfdx

In theory? Please cite any actual example.

A car dealer that would sue a customer to complete a deal, in which no money has changed hands? Reputation suicide..

I doubt it has ever happened. Making a $20K -$30K deal, because it could theoretically happen, would be inadvisable..

Just my $0.02

eogksrhdrns

I got an offer for EX with navi and prem. package sticker price is 30,400. A dealer in NYC offered @27,500 with $500 bonus cash for competitive siice I have Toyota 4runner.
How you think? any opinion?

eogksrhdrns

It is AWD. Anybody? any idea?
EX AWD with navi is hard to find in NYC area. Not much choice.
I am going to see the car today.

00cabrio08reno

came in planning to buy a soul and they had a used 2011 Sportage with 8000 miles on it. Same price as the soul and was able to negotiate it down with the trade to 10k. Trade was 7300 dollars. Great experiance and they kept trying to feed me lol.

riley678

Any advice on which Kia Soul? My husband is 6'3 and needs a new vehicle. We were almost ready to spend a fortune on a new Highlander but I am now the only one with a job. We are in our 50's and have a 6 year old. We have looked at all of the small SUV's. Have not driven a soul yet--which one is best for our needs? Is the ! worth the extra? Which options are wise to have? Thanks for any help. oh yeah, our RAV 4 was totaled last week! :mad:

4wheels2move

I bought internet. When I came to test drive before purchase the sportage needed a jump. 14,999 before tax. Jumped car and drove. purchased sportage and when papers were done shop was closed so dealer ripped out bad battery and put in new. I do mean ripped out because check engine light came on. Was told bring back tomorrow. I did and one clamp two sensor wires were broken. I will just say this is the beginning of a night mare. Bought new in 2009 check engine light went of 5 times in first month . esc is still going on in 2013 they cant reproduce it and wont fix it.23,855 miles and I am afraid to drive it. Pull key out and bells are dinging and car wont lock. Sometimes car wont come out of park. Fiddle with key and steering wheel and get home. dealer cant reproduce. A bad way of saying wont fix. Did I mention in the first month the brake, waw, pitch, roll, and steering sensors were replaced. They replaced the battery again that month. the sale went well but the car stays in the drive way because the esc light comes on intermittently and the gear wont come out of park intermittently. Warranty wont fix. I bought this because of Edmunds review and would not give it to a college student or homeless person. Still fighting to get it fixed. Don't believe the dealer said warranty read all the print as all service including oil change must be done by KIA. The problem is a wiring harness from 2000 and on going. A brake switch is not why the contacts on the sensor switches get pitted and brake switch need replacing every year or two. 4wheels to move me from driveway to shop.

4wheels2move

One year to late, but for future questions like this consider the child and buy steel and air bags forget mpg remember the baby. I make no recommendations but I am your age and if I had a child now we would be in a suburban. With back up camera to supplement my neck muscles.