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actually I've been using a different laptop .. one my dad picked up somewhere for next to nothing awhile back .. it's a Dell with 128 MB memory which could be upgraded to 256 however you can't find the memory anymore as it's not 'standard' ... I've even been looking for a good deal on a laptop to buy, but seems ridiculous that I should have to buy one in order to do my job ...
We have a student who is in an 'early primary grade' who needs another 'placement' ... people here would probably cheer, too ... but fat chance getting a different placement any year soon ...
grrrrrr
yes indeed.
However, you could still purchase one and write it off on your tax return. It's an occupational equipment necessary to do your job. Not necessary to get a brand new laptop. Most of the brand names do sell refurbs in current models at reasonably good prices.
-Dave
Yes, upgrading your ram to 256 or even better 512 would probably do wonders, but it sounds like it will still be a slow machine.
Don't you get discounts on Apple laptops as a teacher? I do believe the new Macbooks are quite reasonable with the educational discounts.
On a side note, anyone running beta versions of Vista yet? I've played with it a little- looks a lot like the Mac OS!
tom
The security stuff drove me nuts until I was able to disable most of it, but otherwise I liked most of it. I've been running IE7 for a while now and it works, and I also have been playing with the Office betas.
Back in my day Bren, teachers had to walk a mile in the snow to find a wireless access point. :P Fatwallet.com often has good deal summaries for laptops.
-juice
Here's the thing, for some models IBM used proprietary components, i.e. not universal or standard memory. That limits the number of potential suppliers.
Another thing is that some systems do not allow you to mix the sizes of your memory chips, so they all have to be the same size. If not, I was thinking of going the easy route and getting just one 256MB chip, plus the 64MB internal chip means you would have 320MB, not ideal but still 5 times what you have now.
What I would do is work with a vendor that might be able to supply the upgrade, and let them have their techs figure it out for you. Give them the model and ask them what your options are. They have databases with more info plus they probably have contacts at IBM that can give them more specific info, so you're not on hold for 6 hours waiting for an answer.
The catch - I have corporate contacts and you need a retail contact. Take your laptop to a place like CompUSA or Best Buy. They'll even install the memory, though that might bring the cost up somewhat.
-juice
Check out this site:
http://www.memoryx.net/ibmtha226me4.html
It says you have 2 slots, max size is 256MB for each slot. But...those are a bit pricey, $140 to upgrade a very old laptop. It would cost just $50 to go to 256MB of memory, so if you don't think you'll keep that laptop for long, consider that.
I'd also recommend seeing if you can find the memory slots. Ask for help from an IT pro at school, I'm sure you can find one. If you know what you're doing it takes about 60 seconds to install memory chips.
Good luck.
We need a Subaru Crew - IT Help thread!
-juice
Tom, you do have to look for it, but Vista definitely has a lot of coincidental features with Mac OS X. Part of that is due to the fact that Apple has been copying some of the good stuff from Windows in the past years, in an effort to be friendlier to switchers! But there are clearly some rip-off features in Vista that were first in OS X two years ago.
Serge
I am in the industry and won't touch Vista nor IE7 beta. For the latter, if you want tabbing browsing just use Opera or Firefox.
~Colin
I is certimuhfied
-juice
I have a few friends that work at Microsoft and I always give them a hard time. I do get to see and play with what's up and coming though! (and continue to be thankful I have a Mac!
tom
Brenda
On some machines that is true, but not in general. My current MacBook does benefit from paired memory, though it's not required. On my last laptop, it did not matter either way.
Behind in my reading again. If you have not already gotten a good answer or taken action, this might help a bit. I did a search on your model number on our intranet and came up with this:
http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?lndocid=MIGR-4PER6S
If you cannot access this site without knowing the 'secret handshake', let me know and I will download the manual and e-mail it to you.
Steve
Mark
-Sorry Brenda, I know nothing about upgrading laptops.
the 'new' request ... daughter who graduated in May has interview tomorrow afternoon for a full-time speech therapy position with the same agency that employs me ... (not the same school ... ) and since it pays about $32,000 we're both keeping our fingers crossed (and legs and eyes and ...)
Mark
Tell your daughter good luck with the interview.
-juice
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4999142340359932162
Clearly a Subaru sales video but the results speak for themselves. What they don't show, however are non-VDC/VTD vehicles doing the hard stuff.
Ken
Hey didn't we use to have a crew member who lived in Arizona?
-Frank
One more time when I shrug at the lack of availability of VDC in all models...
CR-V got owned pretty badly. So did Volvo.
They chose competitors carefully, though, all FWD-biased systems. The VW was a Passat 4Motion, the new one, that no longer uses Audi's Quattro.
The Volvo is a Haldex, and the CR-V and Highlander are also part timers.
That video does a pretty good job of showing why those are not as good.
-juice
-juice
I too would have liked to have seen the non-VDC Subarus go through some of those tests.
tom
they do not appear able to make it up from constant steady speed nor if the climbing test begins in the middle of the rollers. I only watched that part twice, but that's what I saw.
and yes, I am pretty sure that Subarus without VTD and VDC would not do all that well in this demo.
~Colin
What do you think?
We're all so excited .... :shades:
Bob
I'm kidding .. we'll work from the same school corporation but at different sites ... and while I can 'help' her with a few things it will really be up to her to figure it out! I don't have the speech degree!
I did call the main office this morning and told the secretary that I was very surprised that our director would hire another one of my family after working with me for seven years!
:P
When I showed up he immediately took a liking to my car and started asking about it. He had worked on quite a few Subarus and was familiar with our make. As he was working on the dents, he told me a few interesting observations about our cars and dent removal. Keep in mind that this guy really gets to know what lies underneath the sheetmetal to cars since dent removal is all about getting around those obstructions to massage out the dent.
- He mentioned how he continued to be impressed with the amount of bracing Subaru puts in it's doors -- clearly more than the average vehicle.
- He noted Subaru uses some of the thinnest gauge sheetmetal (no kidding) on the doors. He said the thinnest he saw was on the Impreza line. He told me no to be surprised to see more dents. :-(
- Contrary to common wisdom, more expensive cars are easier to work on since the sheetmetal is thicker. Thinner sheetmetal requires a far more sensitive touch to repair.
- Subaru also has some of the tightest window gaps he knows of. One way to access a dent is to drive a wedge into the gap where the window goes down. He mentioned that Subaru uses extra hardware to create a very tight fit. My guess is that it's for the frameless window seals.
- The worst place to get a ding on a 2005+ Legacy/OB is the upper 1/4 of the door as there is a brace that runs down the side (watch out when parking next to those big SUVs)
- The hardest car to work on right now are the new BMW 3-series coupes. Apparently, BMW welds the bracing right against the sheetmetal and leaves very little room to fix dents.
The guy worked on 6 dents and charged me $140. Very reasonable considering the quality of the work done and the interesting chit-chat.
Ken
I did a little PDR of my own on my Outback last summer to fix a door dent, and can confirm your guy's description of the door bracing -- it is quite substantial (and frustrating as my ding was right in that area). In addition to a round tubular brace that runs diagonal/horizontal (crosses where the trim strip is), there are a couple "straps" that must be used to control the way the door buckles. Most of these are glued to the sheetmetal on the inside. The resulting structure is very impressive, but it's like a web in there!
Our previous WRX and Forester indeed had very thin sheetmetal. My 05 Outback is a little heavier, but still much thinner than my previous Outbacks. Of course, the older Outbacks had much less body features and were relatively plain looking -- had they had the creases/styling of the other three cars I mentioned, they probably would have needed thinner metal as well.
Anyway, glad you got a good "show"!
Craig
Bob
However, knock-knock-knock my Forester'01 doors seem to be holding up much better over the past 6 years - I've got a few minor scratches here and there but almost no dings.
It certainly was an interesting experience. And another thing this guy pointed out was that one of the reasons why he went independent was that franchise businesses tend to have dealers as their customers. He noted how one's skill decreases over time working in franchises as dealers will often just want "good enough" vs. perfection.
Anyway, it was fascinating to see all the different tools he used -- most of them home made.
He did note that the 05 Leg/OB sheetmetal seemed to be of thicker gauge than the current Impreza line.
Ken
At least something good happened since no one seemed to care to comment on my question/post
I have been to 3 body shops, with repairs ranging to filling the dents with plastic, and repainting most of the car to replacing most of the panels, including CUTTING OUT THE ROOF.
The local body shops in MA/NH are not quick to recommend PDR, except for the occasional panel ding. However, I have learned that the entire car can be PDR'ed in 2 days for $2,600 vs refurbished and repainted in 1 month for $6-8k.
At this point, I guess it is a no-brainer. I get to preserve the structural integrity of the car, along with the factory paint. Rob M.
edit: nevermind. I found the manifest, he's not on it. *phew*
Bob
Bob
Last weekend, mine caught one just aft of the fuel filler door.
(Typing with one hand, looking up PDR's in the yellow pages with the other)
Cheers!
Paul
Congrats to your daughter!
Thought I would be in Elkhart next week but found out I'm headed to their corporate office in Toronto instead.
Jim