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2007 Chevrolet Impala



  • The problem with the dead car was my new special radio key to get me in my building at work. It interfered with my security system so the Impala thought someone wasn't using the correct key to try to start it and it would kill the start system. Well at least I know that system is working like it should.

    One of my previous flats (Chevy dealer repaired this one) is leaking at the plug and I need a new tire. New dealer says since I have hardly any tread wear (In 27700 miles???) I only need one tire. I always thought you bought tires in a pair?

    To the guy making $90 an hour in engine compartments. Good for you.....but... I do think the unions are going to kill the car industry in America by over inflating wages.

    I have a bachelors degree and some of my family members have masters degrees, and my mom is a pharmacist which is a high demand job. My older brother is the only one anywhere near your $90 but he doesn't get paid anywhere near that in pay because of all the money that the government gets for all his overhead charges and disabilty and stuff. My mom gets paid ~$50 in a very high demand job. $90 seems like way too much money for an assembly line worker if you ask me. If however you have gone to many classes and have training above and beyond you high school education than thats great. To you $90 an hour is great but to the rest of us that pay for that money everytime we buy a car considering the quality of American made cars lately it is going to drive us to buy a foreign car or a foreign car made in the US Like Honda, Toyota, or Hyundai.

    I also have problems with a CEO that runs a company into the ground is fired or told to leave and he still gets his negotiated deal for $millions. It seems like there should be a clause that states if you do a sucky job you get nothing but a pink slip and a kick in the pants out the door. Yes I am bitter I know but so little of my pay is able to be used for fun anymore because so many things are overpriced now.
  • levellevel Posts: 34
    I didn't want to bias the replies, but my problem is that no matter how cold it is outside, when I use the remote start I always get cold air not warm. It does not auto adjust to blow out warm air to warm the car!
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    It can take anywhere from 5-10 minutes for the car to start blowing warm air at idle. It will initially come out cold, and will gradually get warmer as the car runs. When I remote start in the winter, after about 4-5 minutes I will get lukewarm air from the vents, but it will not blow hot air until after I start driving and get the engine up to normal operating temperature.

    We had an ice storm last week, and I needed to do 2 remote cycles to warm the car up enough to the point where the ice started melting off the windshield and side windows.

    If you are remote starting in the winter, and not getting some warm air after 5-10 minutes idling, then there is definitely an issue that the dealer should look at. Make sure you also check your coolant level, it seems the Impalas like to "use" coolant...low coolant can effect the heater's effectiveness.
  • leahtleaht Posts: 2
    Hey all. My sister was in a terrible accident this weekend in her band new 07 Impala. The airbags
    did not deploy even though she was hit head and then side-whacked, car is totaled. Do any of you
    know of any problems previously known with Impala airbags? Any references? Thx thx thx, Minnesota.
  • levellevel Posts: 34
    Thanks. Based on feedback from you out there, when I went in for service I explained the problem and what should be "expected". True enough they did the fix, which involved coolant in a hose near the firewall. They removed air from the hose which is part of the A/C Heating system and replaced it with coolant. Everything works fine now---Heat on cold nights when I use the remote start.
  • levellevel Posts: 34
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    In January, I asked if anyone else was experiencing problems on slippery roads. Our '07 LT3 simply refused to track straight when the road was even a little slick. It got to the point where my wife refused to drive the car in wet weather.

    We recently bought the car as a GM certified used car from a local dealer. We finally got the car in, and they diagnosed bad front and rear alignment and three trashed tires. They covered everything. It wasn't cheap. I don't know whether the used car department ate it, or if GM did. I anteed up for the fourth tire to make a complete new set. I wish they would have caught this during the "117 point inspection", (according to the GM website) but I sure am glad they stepped up and made it right.

    Car doesn't handle radically better than before, but it is much quieter and seems to ride smoother. We're not out of winter here yet, so we'll see how it goes when the roads turn bad again, which they most certainly will.
  • zedo6zedo6 Posts: 7
    > I had the same problem with my 2007 SS which I purchased new. Same diagnosis.
    I had to eat the whole cost of 4 tires and the alignment. I live in Cleveland and you
    have to know how to drive in snow and around chuck holes. Never had this happen
    to me before. service manager said that he never seen anything like that. BS
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    I posted not ago describing my '07 LT3's inability to track straight on slippery roads, and the problem's supposed fix.

    We got hit with the snowstorm that went through the Midwest yesterday, and had ample opportunity to test the car. I'm happy to say it now tracks as straight as can be on nasty roads. Apparently, the bad front and rear alignment and resulting trashed tires were the problem. My wife will drive the car again.
  • tschutztschutz Posts: 4
    I have a 2007 impala with a 3.9. When the motor cuts from 6 cyl to 3 cly it is very noticeable, anybody else had or heard of this , if so what was the fix.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    I don't really notice my 07 going from 6 to 3, but I really notice it going from 3 to 6. Between the trans going in and out of overdrive, and I assume, the torque converter locking and unlocking, plus the engine turning half of itself on and off, this car has a very busy powertrain, and not always smooth. I found it disconcerting at first, but I've gotten used to it...
  • rguthrierguthrie Posts: 8
    I have had my 2007, with the 3.9 engine, for about 14 months, and have never had a problem with the engine going from 6 cyl to 3 cyl or back to 6 cyl. I drive about 75% on the highway, over 55MPH.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    My driving is about the opposite, at least 75% in the city. On the highway, I agree, the transitions are imperceptible.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    I have a 2006 Impala SS with the small-block V-8 with Displacement-on-Demand and cannot tell whatsoever when it changes from 6 cylinders to 3 or vice versa.
  • tschutztschutz Posts: 4
    Thanks, I got a hold of Chevy again and they want to take a look at it. I have figured out it is when it goes from 3 cyl back to 6
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Check out the forums, and select light duty full size trucks and SUV forum. Search for the oil leak info. There were several threads on oil leaks with the 5.3 liter V8 on 2007 new body style full size pickups. I bet yours has exactly the same problem.
  • hartwj98hartwj98 Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2007 Impala LS, and it didnt come with any keyless entry remotes. I thought this was a standard option, am I correct on that? If it is, do I need to buy a specific remote to program it, or are there 'universal' remotes that can be programmed? The dealer told me I would have to get an aftermarket one installed, but I wanted to see if there was a different option.
  • hartwj98hartwj98 Posts: 2
    Great info, thanks for the response!!
  • whtchpl88whtchpl88 Posts: 5
    Good morning...I am addressing anyone who has a current Impala SS (2006-present) and is experiencing an oil leak. The oil leak that I am experiencing is one that doesn't exist. The oil simply disappears within the engine itself as it is consuming it as a "normal" internal combustion engine should. However, there is NO engine that has yet been built (and if so, it was done incorrectly) that consumes oil at a rate of at least a quart and a half every 2000 miles or less. This is a phenomenon that I have experienced since I bought the car...and since the low oil light doesn't come on untill you are nearly in danger of seizing, the consumer is none the wiser unless you are told by a machanic.
    I have brought this to the attention of the dealer I bought it from, and they looked for a leak and there wasn't one to find. There is no telltale sign of trouble, except for the disappearing oil. On my third visit, I was handed a letter/communique of some kind explaining that there was a feature in the V8 SS that I bought, unbeknownst to me. Namely that the engine NORMALLY comsumes that much oil in a 2000 mile period, and it even listed the VIN numbers of the ones that they knew/suspected had this feature.
    In my experience with vehicles that I have owned/driven in my driving years, I have NEVER owned any car or truck that did this. I DO understand that an engine consumes oil, I have never experienced one that consumed it at this rate EVER. Perhaps I have been extremely lucky or fortunate. But I have a funny feeling that this letter I possess is a 'get out of a recall free' card for GM. If they are ahead of the curve on it, they can circumvent the recall by telling the mechanics ahead of time.
    I still am paying for this car, but I feel like I have been had. Someone please tell me I am not wrong about this, so I may do something about it.
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    Many manufacturers consider it normal for engines to consume a certain amount of oil during a certain time frame. One or so quarts of oil being consumed every 3,000 miles or so would probably fall into the normal range.

    My '06 Impala, while not the SS, consumes oil. The 3.5L V6 takes 4qts. for a full oil and filter change, but 4qts NEVER come out when I change the oil. I have also had occasions where I need to add oil in between changes to keep the oil in the acceptable range on the dipstick. I am in the habit now of checking the oil at least once a month to make sure it is OK.

    My V8 Dodge Durango that I had prior to my Impala consumed oil to the tune of about a quart every 3,000 miles. The worst car I ever had for oil consumption was a '99 VW New Beetle. That little car drank oil. Never had a leak, it simply disappeared. One to two quarts was not uncommon during a 3,000 mile interval. It was considered normal, and VW even recommended in the owner's manual that the oil level be checked every time gas was put in the car.

    I would say what you are experiencing is normal.
  • wesleygwesleyg Posts: 164
    I have an "06 SS that now has 19K on it and ever since new, I have to add about 1/2 quart every 1200 miles. As you say, it just disappears, no leaks. I change the oil about every 4000 miles, so in that time I have to add about 1 and a half quarts.

    I check the dipstick at least every 3 weeks since I am leary of a sudden drop, I really have no answer as to why this happens, I've always had small block Chevy V-8s for the last 35 years, this one uses the most oil of them all.
  • whtchpl88whtchpl88 Posts: 5
    Since when did consuming THAT amount of oil become 'normal'? I would expect that this amount of oil would be consumed were there an internal problem, something that I would expect from an OLDER car...NOT a new one. Where and when did this become 'normal wear'? I have never had to worry about where my oil was at any point during my ownership. I am still NOT CONVINCED that this is normal...maybe that is what YOU have been told is normal. By the experiences you described, I would have thought that a alarm would have gone off with the Bug...and besides, just because the manual tells you to check the oil when you fill up doesn't mean that you should see a significant amount of oil missing either. That has been a recommendation since my MOM first drove...and that is what it is, a recommendation. So, if you take their recommendation and you find you are missing oil that you are sure you had last oil change, you are just going to accept that the manufacturer says that it is normal at FACE VALUE?? You are quite trusting, I must say.
  • whtchpl88whtchpl88 Posts: 5
    I totally understand your plight, as you have undoubtedly read in my previous posts. I cannot understand how a car manufacturer that has made a particular type of engine (the aforementioned 5.3L V-8 small block), put it in a four-door sedan transversely and managed to screw it up THAT BADLY so fast. I also own a 2004 Suburban with the very same 5.3L V-8 in it, and it does NOT have this disappearing-oil trick feature. So my question is, what's the diff here? Is it because of the DOD in the V-8 powered Impala SS? I just cannot understand how this can be normal in ANYONE'S definition, who has owned or driven more than three cars in their lifetime...much less the mechanics at the dealer, who DEFINITELY know better than that. I know that I am not alone in my observations, wesleyg....thank you for the AMEN!
  • whtchpl88whtchpl88 Posts: 5
    Is it truly a leak or is the oil "disappearing" as I have described? I am not questioning your observation skills, naturally...I am just trying to help you find a possible answer to your queries. As you may have read, I own a 2006 Impala SS that has a similiar problem...and I am thinking that this is more of a systemic problem than Chevrolet wants to admit publicly.
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    Wow. Please don't take your frustrations out on me. I was merely providing my experiences.

    I have owned 10 different vehicles in the past 20 years, so I am not as trusting as you seem to think I am (I traded the VW, by the way, at only 11,000 miles due to many VW and dealer related issues). I have seen, and been through, everything with vehicles from many manufacturers. I agree that a new engine should not use 50,000 miles maybe starting to use a little...but otherwise it should use none. Do I like GM's position on the issue? No. However, I have little choice but to accept it and live with it while I own my Impala.

    If GM/Chevrolet tells the dealer that the consumption you are experiencing is normal, the dealer has no other recourse but to pass that information along to the consumer. The dealer will not start pursuing a fix for something that is not considered to be broken. GM evens issues TSB's that address this very concern which state it is normal. They have considered this to be normal since about 1997. You are not alone in your concern of the issue. A Google search for "GM oil consumption" returns hundreds of similar posts from other GM owners.

    Having been through everything with vehicles, there reaches a point where you simply appreciate a vehicle that is comfortable, affordable, and gets you where you need to go with minimal problems. Any time I have the hood up, I check the oil, coolant (which also "disappears" in Impalas by the way), and washer fluid. If any of them are low, I take care of it. It takes 5 minutes.

    Whenever I have an issue with a vehicle, I research it online prior to visiting the dealer. I then go to the dealer with my information in my back pocket, and a great deal of skepticism that they will know what to do. Believe it or not, GM dealers have been right-on 99% of the time. I still do my research, but there reaches a point where one simply has to trust that what they are being told is true regardless of whether you like the answer. Total lack of trust leads to stress, frustration, anxiety, and is ultimately counter-productive (which is why I will no longer buy a Ford or VW product).

    In case you haven't seen it, here is the TSB:
    Engine - Oil Consumption Guideline Info.

    Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011D
    Date: April 03, 2007
    Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines

    1998-2007 GM Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW (Including Saturn)

    2003-2007 HUMMER H2
    2006-2007 HUMMER H3
    2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

    This bulletin is being revised to include information on manual transmission vehicles and additional warranty statements.
    Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

    All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.

    Oil Consumption

    The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi).
    Certain 2006 and 2007 models have a new GM Extended Warranty. Please refer to the appropriate Owner's Manual for warranty information.
    This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, that are driven in a non-aggressive manner and maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.

    This rate does not apply to vehicles that are driven in an aggressive manner, at high RPM, high speeds, or in a loaded condition (for trucks). Oil consumption for vehicles driven under these conditions will be more.
    Many factors can affect a customer's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.

    Gasket and External Leaks

    Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.

    Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)
    Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.

    Operating your vehicle with an oil level that is below the minimum level indicated on the engine oil dipstick can result in severe engine damage. Repairs resulting from operating an engine with insufficient oil are not covered under the terms of the New

    Vehicle Warranty.

    Refer to Owner Manual in SI for checking and adding engine oil.
    Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level
    Some engines require more time than others for the oil to drain back into the crankcase. To assure a sufficient amount of oil has drained back to the crankcase, and an accurate reading can be obtained, the vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.

    This does not apply to 2006 and 2007 Corvette ZO6 equipped with the 7.0L LS7 engine (dry sump). Follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual for checking the oil in this application.

    Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change
    Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.

    Aggressive Driving High Speed or High RPM Driving
    Aggressive driving and/or continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs will increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.

    A higher rate of oil consumption is normal for vehicles equipped with manual transmissions that are driven aggressively. By "aggressive," we mean operation at high RPM (3,000 RPM to redline), with frequent use of engine braking (using the engine to slow the vehicle). Vehicles that are driven aggressively may consume engine oil at a rate of up to 0.946 L (1 quart) every 805 km (
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    continuation of TSB from previous post:

    (500 mi). This is normal for a vehicle that is driven aggressively. No repair is necessary. This characteristic does, however, require the owner to check the engine oil level at sufficiently frequent intervals, especially when driving aggressively, to assure the oil level remains within the recommended operating range. As the Owner's Manual recommends, you should check the oil level every time you get fuel.

    Towing or Heavy Usage
    Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.

    Crankcase Ventilation System
    Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.

    Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)
    On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.

    Engine Temperature
    If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.

    Engine Wear
    Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.
    Measurement of Oil Consumption

    Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).

    Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.
    Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).

    Park the vehicle on a level surface.

    Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.
    Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    Another TSB you may be interested in is

    07-06-01-007 APR 07 Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption

    I do not have the text of this particular TSB, however from researching it online there appears to have been a problem in certain '06 and '07 model year 5.3L Impala SS's. The problem is a potential defect in one of the valve stems in the engine. The remedy is to replace the cylinder head.

    Not sure I would want this kind of work done on a new car, but if your oil consumption is in excess of what is indicated in the Oil Consumption Guidelines TSB (1qt every 2K miles), it may be your next step.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    '07 LT3. We bought the car used, this is our first summer with it. All during cool weather this spring, the power factory sunroof worked very smoothly. But we've noticed when the car sits in the sun on hot days, the sunroof shudders and vibrates the whole roof when it opens. When it cools off at night, or in the morning, it operates smoothly again. I'm assuming something is expanding in the heat, and getting the roof out of adjustment. Anyone else notice this, or is our car screwed up?
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    I've got a 2007 Grand Prix with sun roof--essentially the same mechanism--and I have not experienced whaqt you have described. I live in Texas and the car sits in the sun during the day so it gets to 100 degrees or greater. Sounds to me that you have something that needs adjustment or lubrication. Good luck. Clark
  • colebankcolebank Posts: 1
    Mine does this too!!!
  • hello all. just purchased a certified 07 impala with 24,771 on it about a month ago. it is a beautiful car so far, no big complaints yet. has all options except bose (thank god, my 84 vette's bose sucked!) and it replaced a still thriving 160k 92 mercury sable LS. just wanted to post that the car has already been back to the dealer for a brand new alternator. it exhibited a pulsing in the interior lighting/blower/headlights when driven in the dark. changed variables inside the car over a week (fan on and off, a/c, fog lights, radio. rear defog, etc) to be sure it wasn't just one item drawing the electric system down. my guess of alternator or voltage regulator was confirmed yesterday, installed today, and the car is safely back home. let's hope that's the last major issue for the next 140k, LOL peace..... john in grand haven, mi
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    The Bose in the new Impala is hardly the same one as in your '84 Corvette. You can't compare the two. The Impala Bose is actually excellent. I have it in my '06 SS and it is one of the best features of the car!
  • I have a 2007 Impala with the 3.9 candy apple red. I have had it back 3 times for the hesitation in the acceleration. Twice they put a new map sensor in it, that did not help. The last time I had it in they gave me a bulletin from Chevy that they are a wear of the problem, at this time there is no fix to it. I do not like it, but per Chevy I have to live with it. I am not happy.
    I have also had it back as I was having some dash problems. They had to put another ground in it some place, that fixed that problem.
    Back to the problem with the hesitation, now you got me fired up again, its time to fire off another e-mail to Chevy
  • hello, looks like the impala goes back in the beginning of the week. wife has driven the car the last few mornings, and the same flickering in the electric system is being noted. no car i have ever owned has done this...wait, i have never owned a new car...... hmmmmm... it's funny an electrical gremlin like this made it into the second year of the new model. so much for my late father's advice to buy the second year of a new model. i will keep you all abreast. peace...... john on the fresh water west coast!
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    Is the flickering/pulsating constant or only when one of the elctrical accessories is used? For example, the headlights on my '06 Impala will dim slightly when I use the power windows. But once I release the power window switch the headlights go back to normal.

    If this is what you are experiencing, I would say it is normal (I have owned several cars that also exhibited this type of behavior). However, if your lighting is pulsating/dimming/flickering constantly while driving then that is a problem that the dealer should easily be able to resolve...especially if it is doing it when the radio, A/C system, rear defroster, turn signals, overhead lights, etc. are ALL OFF. That leans toward one of the underhood components putting an abnormal load on the electrical system...or shorting out.

    Do the lights flicker if you turn the headlights on manually using the headlight switch as opposed to the auto setting? If they do not flicker on the manual setting, it could be something as simple as a faulty auto-headlight switch or sensor.
  • hey ryster... i know when stuff like power windows are used there can be a dimming of the lights, but this is actually like a pulsing of the lighting system where the dimming is like going between say a 50 watt light to a 55 watt light and back again. it occurs randomly, and i compliment my wife on trying all different things as she's driving to isolate the source or cause of this. she did try the headlights manually to no avail. the car will be back to the dealer. i can't take the chance that the electrical system might end up funny because of this problem and have it bite me in the butt at 36,004 miles. i paid a bit more than i think i should have for a "certified" vehicle, but that was for peace of mind that the car is right. and right now.... it isn't totally right. any other suggestions are welcome. i get to drive the car after dark tonight, so i have a chance to check out a few things myself.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    I have an '06 SS, no electrical problems whatsoever. You must have a lemon.
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    There is a TSB that deals with the flickering headlights and interior lights for the 06 and 07. I'm not sure what the solution is but you can see it at 2007/id_070842008/TSB.htm
  • hey wbowl99, you were dead on, and when i did another online search for that TSB, i came across another forum that perfectly described the same problem as me, and the fix. armed with that, walked into my dealer today, they were impressed i found the problem, LOL i talked with the tech who replaced my alternator last week and he said that he never took it for another test drive at night with the car to verify he had fixed the problem. i told the tech i had told the service manager to keep the car for as long as it took to find the problem, glad he didn't. at first, he looked up TSB's on his computer for the 2007 impala, and it didn't show up. when we looked up the TSB number, there it was. the tech stated that he didn't find that TSB because it didn't show up under the impala category. odd. needless to say, he printed out the TSB and went right to the service manager with the information, the SM stated he'd get the parts located and delivered ASAP and that i can expect them to work on the car tomorrow. i will keep you all abreast. priggly, it appears as though this problem is confined to the 2007 impala and maybe the monte with the 3.9 V6, so hopefully i don't have a lemon. talk with you all soon. peace..... john
  • hello.. picked up a new keyless entry for the 07 impala, and in following the instructions for programming it to my car, i haven't beeen able to get out of the blocks yet. in looking at a few different sites, the basic conceptual procedure is the same. close doors, hold down unlock button on car door, turn key to on,off,on,off, release unlock button; then car will lock and unlock to show it is prograrm mode, then procede with the remotes. i have tried several times to do that part of the procedure to get the car to do the lock/unlock thing, but i am not sure if my timing on the ignition switch part is right. is it a quick onoffonoff or a on, off, on, off, or is it any tips are as always appreciated. peace.... john
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    This is the procedure for synching up a remote to your Impala:

    Cycle through the Driver Information Center using the "Info" button until you get to the following "Remote Key" menu:

    Remote Key
    This display allows you to match the remote
    keyless entry transmitter to your vehicle. To match
    a remote keyless entry transmitter to your vehicle, do
    the following:
    1. Press the vehicle information button until PRESS
    V[checkmark button] TO RELEARN REMOTE KEY displays.
    2. Press the set/reset button.
    will display.
    3. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the
    first transmitter at the same time for approximately
    15 seconds.
    A chime will sound indicating that the transmitter
    is matched.
    4. To match additional transmitters at this time,
    repeat Step 3.
    Each vehicle can have a maximum of
    eight transmitters matched to it.
    5. To exit the programming mode, you must cycle the
    key to OFF.
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    Glad to help John, and glad you got a different reaction from your dealership than I did when I mentioned TSBs. I was asked if I'd read the small print at the bottom and knew that TSBs were only for trained mechanics and not for me.
  • wbowl, very funny that the stealership tried to make you feel as if you found priviledged information. you know, if it weren't for internet based forums like this, my bet is that my dealership would try to tell me there's nothing that can be done about my car. TSB's, i am willing to bet, can accumulate and become full blown recalls, and that hits the car maker's bottom line. i know my dealership didn't find the TSB pertaining to my car; i talked directly with the tech. it's my belief that a consumer has to be so savvy now, and information is power. i paid $17,000 for my car, and seeing as how it's CERTIFIED, which i PAID for, it damned well better be right. trust me, any information i turn up on this car through these forums will be scrutinized. i guess what ticks me off is that GM knows about the issue i am having, but figures it made a defective system that they don't have to fix unless the customer figures out that the system is defective. well, bottom line is the dealership called today and informed me the parts are in, and the car should be going in friday for the big fix. as always, i will keep you posted. thanks again for everyone's help. sincerely, john hutchison
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    I understand John. I bought mine new and it was over $20K and I've had all kinds of problems. If you go back through the posts, you'll see what I mean.

    There are a number of things GM knows about that they hope we will not report. If we don't, they're not going to admit it. I saw one TSB addressing a problem that actually said that if the owner didn't mention it they should not either because they didn't know what it was or how to fix it. It had to do with a noise in the rear passenger side that sounded like something had hit under the car. I had that happen numerous times for a couple of months, but then it disappeared and hasn't returned as yet.
  • hi teresa, it has been some time since you posted, and i was curious as to what happened with your mileage issue with your SS. did it get better, worse, do you even have the car any more? just wondering, as it seemed to be a problem for your particular car. thanks... john
  • hi everyone, just a quick note to say the dealer did fix the headlight flicker troubles thanks to the support and information i found here. they did just what the TSB said, and holy cow.... success. now why could GM not retrofit the 07 3.9's to take care of this problem? search me. well, my impala is as complete as i think it should be, but trust me, i will be keeping a close tab on any other issues brought up here about the car. thanks again to those who helped!!!! take care..... john
  • I have had my 07 LS implala for a year and a half now and with winter approaching I am not looking forward to big puddles. Every time I go through a large puddle, the car makes a terrible gurgling / rumbling sound right under the front-central part of the car. It will go away 10-20 seconds after the hitting the puddle, but it sounds just terrible until then. This is the only time this happens...big puddles. I made a service mgr ride with me to experience it the first day I owned the car and he had no idea what it was. I am looking to see if anyone else in the world has a hunch...your suggestions are welcome. Thanks
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    My '06 Impala LT (3.5L V6) does the exact same thing. I have never bothered to have the dealer look at it because I expect the same answer your dealer gave you.

    I call it the "motor boat" sound. It sounds just like the noise heard when a boat accelerates away from a dock.

    To me, it almost sounds like water is getting into the exhaust system or something. It is defintely annoying, and I dread driving the car in a heavy downpour. I cringe at every large puddle.
  • Just had my second steering intermediate shaft replaced on my '07 LT. Car has about 39,000 miles on it. This is supposed to be a redesigned version that doesn't require greasing. Anybody else have trouble with this item? Does the redesign truly fix it? Thanks.
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