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2007 Chevrolet Impala

1246

Comments

  • hi ken.... i'm not having that issue (as far as i know...) is this item you're having issues with part of the steering system between the steering wheel and the rack? my 3.9 LT 07 has been behaving itself just fine, but with this being the newest car i have ever owned, any little thing gets me concerned. any extra details would be appreciated. thanks.. john in grand haven, mi p.s... my headlight flicker problem is still a non issue since the i had the dealer put the ground strap onto the coil pack.
  • I to have an 07 Impala which clicks when you make a right turn and now its in the shop with a motor that will not stay running and GM nor my insurance company wants to repair
  • rhonda, just curious what 07 you have.. engine size, LT, LS, etc., mileage. more details can help us out a bit. tank you.... john
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    I had my first Intermediate Steering Shaft replacement done at 32,000 miles in my '06 LT...I am now at 34,000 miles. On occasion, with the new ISS, I will feel the dreaded knocking randomly and then it will go away. Experiences with the redesigned ISS vary throughout the Impala community. Some never have the issue return, while others do. At least with the model that would need greasing there was the prospect of greasing it yourself. Now, with the new design, if the knocking comes back there is no real remedy the owner can try at home.

    GM has been experiencing ISS problems in numerous models for the past several years. From cars to trucks. They should have found a permanent fix for it years ago, but in typical GM fashion they would rather band-aid the problem in the field as opposed to solving the problem during production and simply eliminating the problem altogether.
  • I have the same sound when going over a big puddle highway or city. A guess of the sound would be like the grinding sound when ABS is activated.
  • I bought this Impala at the end of '05 brand new. In the beginning I had the 'normal' issues (TPMS, Key Fob, etc.).

    I just took it in because the oil consumption is very high. After about 1,200 miles I can hardly see any oil on the dipstick! Of course the dealer can't find anything obvious (no leaks, no oily residue in the engine compartment). At the same time they found that the radiator cap is faulty (from what I have read this could be attributed to Dex-Cool) which will cost me $71 in diagnosis and parts. Radiator has to be flushed - $84. Both front wheel bearings are apparently bad - $500/side. Since they have not diagnosed the disappearing oil yet there is most likely more to follow.

    I found some past threads about the disappearing oil but have not seen anything recently. Does anyone have an update on this? I currently have 51,000+ miles (covered by 5year/100,000 extended warranty). Since the warranty does not cover a lot of things (like radiator caps and resulting radiator flush due to part failure..) I was wondering if anybody knew more so I could potentially avoid the 'disappearing oil' repair cost.
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    The front wheel bearings are in the hub. It is a hub/bearing assembly. If you are being charged $500 per side, you are being grossly overcharged.

    The front hub/bearing assembly retails for $296 each. It can be purchased for about $160 online. Even if you were paying full retail, parts would be $600. The old assembly is unbolted, and the new one is bolted on. It shouldn't take more than one hour labor to do the whole job ($100-$125).

    An aftermarket assembly can be purchased at auto parts stores for about $200 per side. Again, $400 in parts for both sides.

    My '06 Impala has a V6, but it "loses" oil. It requires 4 quarts when doing an oil and filter change, but I have NEVER pulled 4 quarts back out of it when draining the old oil. It has no obvious leaks that can be found. I would guesstimate that I lose at least 1qt every 3,000 miles. I always check the level, and keep it in the safe zone on the dipstick, but even doing that I never get 4 full quarts out.

    Just another Impala quirk. All I can do is laugh about it. With everything that has gone wrong with my car since purchased new, my Impala is a great source of material for family and friend's jokes. In fact, one of the first things I get asked is "How's the Impala...running okay?"

    My current concern is the "blow-by" I am getting with the automatic transmission lines. Once in a while there is a damp spot of transmission fluid under the car. But it is very sporadic. No problem for weeks, then there is a spot. I believe it is more of an issue in very cold weather. It was 8 degrees here yesterday, and my transmission was hesitating severely when trying to accelerate from a stop.

    I have about 1,200 miles left on the warranty...then it will be time to seriously consider trading.
  • The final cost for one of the hub/bearing assemblies came to $475 (296 parts/150 labor) billed to the warranty company.

    As for the 'disappearing oil' they are performing a oil consumption test and I have to take it in after another 1,000 miles. After about 1,500 miles the oil level was bearly visible on the dipstick. The dealer did not find any visible leaks or residue. They said the next step would most likely be an engine tear-down...

    I have not had any transmission problems...yet (knock on wood). A couple of nights ago it dropped down to 27 below and nothing felt 'stiff' on the car. The problem I have with the SS is grip. It's so icy here that the tires aren't sticking and teh Traction Control light flashes like a christmas tree...

    Trading in?? I like the car overall. I like the power and I like the roomy interior. GM just has to take care of these issues and fess up when they mess up! When I was looking for a new car it was between the SS and a Hyundai V6. I chose the SS hoping the re-sale would be higher around here... My Mom boutght the Hyundai V6 and has not had any problems at all (and didn't have to pay close to $5,000 for her 10/100,000 warranty)
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    My V6 LT has grip issues in general. I can easily smoke the front tires on dry pavement, and in wet/snow/ice it requires very careful application of the throttle to prevent wheelspin. My car does not have the traction control option (I didn't want it.) If my 211hp V6 has issues, I can't imagine what the 300hp V8 is like!

    The resale value on Impalas is atrocious. My '06 LT has depreciated almost 67% in the 29 months/35,000miles I have driven it. The '06 SS isn't much better at about a 63% depreciation with mileage similar to mine. Believe it or not, a Hyundai Sonata V6 Limited will hold value slightly better than an Impala. Based on residual estimates, a $30,000 Impala SS will have a value of $8300 after 5 years. A $26,000 Sonata V6 Limited will have a value of $7300 after 5 years. The Hyundai was $4,000 less to start, but only $1,000 less in value after 5 years. The Hyundai Azera, on the other hand, does not hold value as well as the Sonata or the Impala. Interesting.

    I have had (and still have) too many annoying problems to be able to say that I like the Impala enough to keep it for a couple more years. It is "okay", I suppose. It gets me where I need to go and is relatively fuel efficient. I didn't buy an extended warranty simply because the price was ridiculously expensive ($2600 for GMPP Major Guard with no deductible).
  • Hey there- I'm a newb... I have just purchased a used 2007 Impala LT. What a great vehicle! The other day I was going to put a long bookcase in the trunk and lower the rear backseats and could not figure it out. Am I an idiot? There is no "cloth loop" to pull and I can't find anything else. There are no buttons/levers in the trunk either that I have found. By looking in from the trunk you can see that the backseat is made to come down, it even moves about an inch when I pull on it. Can anyone give me any advice as to how to lower the seat? It is a single backseat, not split. The manual was no help to me. Thanks in advance. -M
  • hey m, congrats on your impla purchase. i have a black 07 3LT, 3.9 (no flex!!), power and leather everything. wish i could help you out on your seat issue, my rear seats have the 60/40 split, and on the eges of the seats, there are the leather straps that allow you to flip the seat cushions forward and the seat backs down. i thought that not all impalas came with the flip/fold option. if nothing else, you could put a drugged mountain lion in the trunk and just wait. it should exit into the passenger compartment. ta-dah!! LOL best of luck with it. john in grand haven, mi.
  • jdc4jdc4 Posts: 2
    It feels like (holding the steering wheel) that something is broken in the
    front end of the car. Going over bumps in the road, the sensation is more of
    a rattle than a single "bump" feel. While I realize that this is ambiguous, I had the
    same experience with a 2000 Impala ... and it took the dealer a long time
    to figure out what was broken. I cannot remember what the issue was.
    Has anyone else had a similar experience? I have switched dealers
    (for several reasons) and I would hate to go back to the one who found
    the problem with the 2000. :cry:
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    If the back seat is one piece all the way across, it does not fold down.

    In the '07 model year the fold down rear seat was only standard on 3.9L V6 and 5.3L V8 Impalas. It was an option on 3.5L LT Impalas, and simply not available on LS Impalas. If your seat has no split, it sounds as though your car was not equipped with the fold down seat.

    My '06 Impala LT does not have the fold down seat, and if you pull on the seatback it does feel as though it moves a little.

    Another way to tell is to look at the seatback from the trunk. If it is unfinished, and merely has what looks like standard "multi-colored" carpet padding on it, it is not a fold down seat. If it has a defined split, with finished block cloth on it, it is possibly a fold down seat.
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    Could be the tie rod have worn out enough to create play in the joint giving a knocking sound from the front end . If that's not it, have the strut checked for leaks, possibly the strut is defective.
  • Purchchased a new 2007 LTZ (6cyl automatic) in December of '07. Since that time, mileage averages 23.2 in city and 31.5 on long trips (freeway driving). Very happy with the mileage.
  • hi all. i am approching the 33,000 mile threshold with my 07, and so far all is great. having fixed the coil pack grounding issue mentioned this past fall, the car has been a top notch performer. my wife has been the driver of the car this winter as i have become a layoff statistic and she's still gainfully employed. driving 25 miles every morning during what i would consider to be a old school michigan winter, the car has sailed through unplowed roads just great. wifey loves the remote start, the heated seats, and the ONSTAR for 3 months that came with the car. i activated it at the end of november, and the 3 months is up in a few weeks, about the time the worst of our michigan weather should be done. i am looking forward to a window tint for the car and a class II hitch for pulling my jetski this summer. i added some chrome tips from NAPA to the dual exhaust to shine it up a bit. i also changed out the interior lighting with bright LED's, and i like the look of that as well. bright and white. the taillights will be getting some VHT niteshades paint in the spring, i like the tinted look. i have contemplated switching out the stock headlights with aftermarket "projector" style ones, in black not chrome. anyone have experience with this type of headlight system? i love the look, but at 300 bucks, they need to function as well. drop me a line back if you have an opinion, i am always open to them. thanks much... john hutchison, grand haven, michigan
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    Do a Google search for the North American Impala Owners Association, go to the forums there, and go to the "2006+ Exterior and Interior Mods" forum. You can read all about the trials and tribulations of the projector headlights for the 2006+ Impalas. The thread has over 425 posts and is still going strong.

    I would post a link here, but I believe it would violate the Terms of Service.

    Conversely, I have found the Impala to not be the best companion in the cold winter months. When it gets below 25 degrees, it just doesn't like the cold. Transmission shifts slow, windshield wiper blades become frozen/brittle, and the car rattles up a storm. Snow performance is mediocre at best, but a lot of that has to do with the tires I have on the car. The OEM Goodyear Integrity tires lasted 25,000 miles. I replaced them with General Altimax RT all-season touring tires, but they turned out to be terrible in snow. They out perform the Goodyears in dry and rain, however. As long as I drive in 2nd gear in the snow it gets me where I need to go.
  • Due to the date difference in your posting vs mine, I don't know if this will help. I had the same or similar problems with my '07 Impala. It also "quit" on me about 7 times. At other times, it would "miss" at random (usually at 55 MPH it would miss 2 or 3 times in a mile, then run smooth for 3 to 4 miles, then start missing again). I had to call roadside emergency services once because in ran so rough, then quit. I couldn't restart for about 10 minutes. Anyway, I live in NY. I had had the car into Chevy dealerships 3 times with this problem (I kept all of the invoices). In NY, the 4th time is the charm for the lemon law. I presented copies of the 3 previous invoices to the service manager when I took the car in for the 4th time for the same problem (an informed him that it was the 4th time for this problem). The result: they found a loose speed sensor wire that was supposed to ground to the transmission housing. Someone had either overtighten this bolt at one time or had cross threaded the bolt. The threads in the transmission housing were stripped out so the bolt would not tighten the ground wire to the transmission. Road and other vibrations would loosen then remake this connection while driving. They simply re-tapped the threads and re-attached the wire correctly. Haven't had another problem with missing or quitting in over 10,000 miles since then.
  • I have a 2004 Impala LS with 81,000 miles. Recently, I had it in the Chevrolet dealer shop to have the some work done on it. They came back and said the hub bearings needed to be replaced and one tie rod. I had another independent shop check these things and they said the hub bearings needed to be replaced but tie rods were ok. How do you check the hub bearings?
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    I believe you can check hub bearings by jacking the car as if you were going to change the tire. Once the wheel is off the ground, try to "wiggle" the wheel...firmly attempting to turn it side to side, top to bottom (not spin). If it moves at all, there is a problem. Depending on where the movement is coming from, you can diagnose the problem. I'm not a mechanic by trade but if it wiggles in both directions, I'd say it's the bearings. If it only moves left to right, it's more likely a tie rod. If you have movement, you'll be better able to see where the problem lies by taking the wheel off and repeating the test directly on the rotor.

    BTW, tie rods are a known issue on some Impalas (I think I have a problem with at least one of mine but haven't actually tested it). I didn't notice if you're still under warranty but even if you aren't, do some research and you may be able to convince the dealership or GM to cover the cost either fully or partially...depending on how much you care to fight about it.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Your rattling problem sounds like it is most likely a Intermediate Steering Shaft (ISS). It is a VERY common problem with many GM FWD cars. My 06 Impala and 02 Monte Carlo both had the same problem.
    There is a temporary remedy of lubricating the joint of the shaft but if you're under warranty, ask about it at the dealership. My 06 was fully covered under warranty and you won't believe how much you've likely gotten used to it (once it's fixed, you'll swear it's a new car again).
    Tie rods are another possibility and as stated in the earlier post, they are a fairly common problem as well. It should also be covered under the manufacturer's warranty although if they deny either problem exists, you're left to convince them it's there.
  • hi all. the 07 has now hit it's mileage total to start getting nervous about, 35,000 miles. the 3/36 is almost gone, sniffle. my wife noticed a month of two ago that the power steering seemed to have pulsing to it when making slow turns in either direction. i know it is not the tires as the pulsing is a constant despite vehicle speed. it is almost undetectable while going straight, but on a perfectly paved road there is just a hint of that feeling. i have checked power steering fluid level, which is perfectly in spc, so it isn't insufficient fluid. i would not think i would have worn suspension parts already, and that would not really cause the issue i am having. i can feel it more when it is first run in the morning, but it is still present to a lesser degree when warm. anyone have an idea? ( i hope so!) otherwise it is back to the stealership for a little checkup. i think i will have the front driver door adjusted regardless, it has always opened a bit funny, like the striker is a tab high. that makes me worry that there is an issue with the hinges or pins, or... the striker is too high. hope to hear from someone soon. thanks much!! jogn in grand haven, michigan
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    When my '07 did this at about 38,000 miles, it was the intermediate steering shaft that was the trouble. It's a common problem with many GM vehicles. If this is the issue, your dealership should be well-versed in the symptoms and repair by now.
  • Hello, I read your post concerning the noise you hear when you turn your 07 Chev Impala. I also own a 07 Chev Impala Lt with 34k miles on it. My problem is very simular to your. The noise is heard and felt when I turn out of a parrell park, turn on to a street turn to back up even felt sometimes when enter a street from a on ramp. It even did it yesterday from a complete stop and not turning the sterring wheel at all. It just makes this kind of slipping/grinding or scraping feel and sound. The dealership has already replace the drive shaft, sterring shaft, and it seems to improve for a day, and return again. I got it to make the noise on this past Friday w/the Tech. in the car with me. Therefore, he wants me to bring it back in on Monday so he can try something else to fix the problem. I will keep you up dated as to the solution when there is one.
  • Hi all......I am officially a newbie on this site. i have a 2007 Impala LS....I have owned it for about 1 year and love it......one comment. Is anyone having problems with the cloth upholstery on the driver and passenger seat? Mine seem to be "balling" starting to show considerable wear. We certainly aren't big drivers and in the car all the time....maybe 20, 000 km's per year.... and we are office workers so rough materials etc on the seats. but the wear is very noticeable......any comments? anyoner else have this sort of problem? I still have warranty left.....think it might be covered?........any comments would be very appreciated.
    thx
    peiporter
    2007 Impala LS
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    I had the same problem with my 2006 2LT. My wife would gently "clip" the pilling/balling areas--much the same as a sweater needs to cared for. I believe it is a function of the man-made material, the fabric. I took an expensive approach in curing the problem: I traded the car for a 2009 Impala LT with the 3.9 engine, leather seats, and Red Jewel Tint Coat. The paint was the selling item! Clark
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    I have a 2006 Impala 2LT with cloth bucket seats. I purchased it new back in '06 and now have 39,000 miles on it. I average 14,000 miles (23000km's) per year. 2 hours per day in the car during the week.

    No issues with the ebony cloth seats other than they pick up every little piece of lint or fuzz that they possibly can. Every few weeks it takes several swipes with a good lint brush to pick up everything. No pilling or anything yet, maybe some ever-so-slight fading on the driver's seat but hardly noticeable.

    If you are still under warranty, you could point it out to the dealer and see what their thoughts are on the issue. Not sure what the warranty would cover...simply re-covering the existing seats or perhaps brand new seats? It's hard to say.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    '07 LT3. 49,000 miles. From time to time, I get a message saying the tire monitor system needs service. I don't pay attention to this annoyance, and it goes away. Has anyone else had this situation? Will ignoring the trouble message screw up the electronics?

    I maintain proper tire pressure the old fashioned way--I check it myself frequently and these messages are annoying, particularly for a piece of technology I don't need.
  • rguthrierguthrie Posts: 8
    I have an '07 LTZ, and had the same problem right after I bought the car. I was told it was covered, as there was a recall for this problem. Might want to check with your dealer, and see if they will still fix it.
    Good luck.....
  • tchisholmtchisholm Posts: 2
    I purchased a 2006 Impala new in July of 06...GM calls the upolstery problem "pilling." My dealership after 4,000 miles of driving attempted to blame this breakdown of the fabric on my fat a..and said that I was the only one they'd seen. After driving away from the dealership I happened to spot a General Electric administrative plant in town that had leased about 2 dozen Impalas so I stopped in to compare notes with a few of their drivers...The first car I saw had 34,000 miles on the odometer and had total breakdown of the cloth on the driver's back.
    At my yacht club I spotted another Impala (also high mileaged) purchased from a lease company and sure enough...the same problem...The back of the seat looked like a cat clawed it to threads.

    I went back to the dealership with that information and somewhat proved my point...Informing them that the threads were breaking at 4,000 and shouldn't be... they agreed to replace the drivers' seat...

    At 8,000 miles on the odometer(4,000 more) I saw the threads coming apart again...and this time also on the passenger's seat as well...They were replaced.

    At 12,000 or thereabouts again I had my seat replaced.

    THREE SEAT COVERS...Car now has 27,000 give or take and no problems other than normal wearing.

    I've found cloth breakdowns in 2006, 2007, and 2008 models

    GM's supplier got a batch of old dried up threads...don't let anybody kid you...This IS UNDER WARRANTY but you'll need to fight for it
  • tchisholmtchisholm Posts: 2
    There are many of us who've had the very same problems...GM got a very bad batch of cloth in many 06, 07 and 08 models but it doesn't show up right away...I don't know abut the 09 models because I stopped looking.

    GM DOES know all about it...Start screaming at your dealership and demand to speak with the regional manager if you don't get anywhere...

    Don't let them Bull Sh.. you
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    What lumbar setting are you using? I was thinking that if you had the lumbar fully engaged, it could be stretching the seatback fabric and causing excessive stress on the threads. Eventually the threads would become fatigued and fail.

    My '06 with fabric seats, also purchased in July '06, now has 42,000 miles on it and has no issues. The lumbar in mine is set very mild.

    If this pilling is happening to '06's, '07's, and '08's it must be something more than a bad batch of cloth. GM would have discovered and eliminated the issue well before three model years had passed.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    I have leather seats on my 2006 SS. Never had a problem. You should have gotten leather. The cloth is probably re-cycled and that's why its pilling. This is what happens when tree huggers get into the car industry. Or maybe it was made in Red China. Hope not.
  • impaledimpaled Posts: 7
    We just inherited a 2002 Chevy Impala and just broke 40K miles last weekend. Two days ago, I go to start the car....nothing happens. Dash is lit up with SECURITY, SERVICE NEEDED, etc. but neither the A/C nor radio came on. Attempted to jump...still nothing. Have car towed to the local Chevrolet dealership, they tell me the BCM won't talk to their computer and that they won't know anything until that is replaced. They replace it, drive it and check everything out to make sure everything else is alright. They say it's fixed...I pick it up drive it home. The very next time I go to start it up (the following a.m.), it won't start!! This time the A/C and radio are on. Naturally, I call the dealership since I just dropped $500 plus the day before. They tow it back at their expense. Two hours later, I get a call that the "battery is deader than dead" and they'll be *happy* to replace it for $200 and I can pick it up in 45 minutes LOL. Oh, and the guy asked me if the tech mentioned my battery was weak the day before. Um, no...

    I can't help but think that this was the original problem and they misdiagnosed. Too coincidental for them to fail at the same time.My fear is I'm going to replace the battery and then discover there is something else amiss.

    Hopefully, this post isn't so old that no one responds!

    Thank you!
  • hello. sounds like the stealership impaled your wallet, hence the name, correct?? if it's a dead battery, take a nice new one over there tomorrow, put it in yourself, and then have them test the vehicle again. if nothing is wrong, demand your $500.00 back for their tech being dumb, ignorant, or a combination of the two. what powers the BCM?? the battery. if they were having issues with the BCM, instead of just yanking out yours and assuming it was bad, maybe they should have tested the battery to see if it was the culprit. if it was the factory, stock, original battery, it's 7 going on 8 years old and should be ready do die anyways. snot nosed techs are dumbed down too much these days. they have no common sense, adhere to the dealer mantra of screwing over the customer, and leaving you violated in the pocketbook. if the tech's computer doesn't tell them what is wrong, they're stumped and can't use their own keen powers of common sense to figure it out. do NOT let this stealership f*** you over this way. my money is on a 70 dollar battery, not a $500.00 failed BCM. electronics act screwy when they cannot be fully powered, and vehicles today are more reliant on computer systems than ever. keep us in the loop, please!! best of luck... john
  • impaledimpaled Posts: 7
    hi john,
    thank you so much for your response. yes, you are right about the name :) i left the car at the dealership over the weekend and plan to talk to the head boss man tomorrow. i will definitely let you know how it goes. you are right about the techs being idiots. the guy i talked to yesterday, said it could probably be jumped but he wasn't sure it would keep running! i don't know if he was trying to scare me, but the car *will* keep running after it's been jumped unless the issue is *not* the battery. comments like those are what frighten me the most! i can't tell if they are dumb or are counting on me to be dumb :) will keep you posted!!
  • impaledimpaled Posts: 7
    Went to dealership this a.m. and talked to the service manager. He had a tech test the battery right in front of me and established that the battery had a bad cell. He offered to replace the battery for a discounted price of $59.99 - much better than the original quote of $200!! Also, didn't charge anything for installation/labor. Hopefully all the problems are solved now :)
  • hi all. just taking an informal poll. seems the glossy piano black vertical trim piece between the front and back doors has started to peel it's clearcoat off, or something akin to that. anyone else having this unsightly issue?? i only have one of the 4 trim pieces going south on me, but it is enough that i think it looks terrible. anyone go around with the dealer on this? i am ready to, but figured i'd post here first to see if i got a bum trim piece or not. i fear that is not the case, our 98 cavalier did the same thing, albeight after 6 years, not 3. thanks... john in grand haven, mi. black 07 3LT
  • '07 3LT 61,000 miles. My tire pressure monitoring system is still working, but I had the tires rotated, and they didn't update the tire positions. The right rear is tire goes soft over time, but the monitor says it's the right front.

    The DIC says to push the button with the check mark to update tire positions. I do this, the horn toots, and I get a message to the effect that it's updating. But it doesn't work. Am I supposed to do something else, or should it update automatically once you push the button? The manual sheds little light on this. Thanks.
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    I had that same issue on a 2006 Impala last year. It was still under warranty and not a question asked by the servicing dealer. All four doors were affected; they ordered parts and replaced without ANY hesitation. Clark
  • '07 LT3 61,000 miles. Our door trim is holding up okay. Two other things though: the chrome on the lower front grille went bad, and the dealer replaced it under warranty with no questions. We also have rust starting underneath the chrome trim on the trunklid. It's leaving a muddy-colored streak as it dribbles down. I've seen other Impalas with the same problem. We're in the rust belt. Anyone else have this?
  • hi ken. i'm in grand haven, michigan, so that makes me rust belt too. thankfully no rusticles on mine yet, but thanks for a head's up on a place to watch. i think i'll be visiting my stealership this week, even though my 3/36 is a few thousand past. my chrome on the grille looks like crap too. good ol' plastic plating. ida been happier with a black or silver painted surface there instead of plated plastic.
  • Ken,
    I have a 2007 SS with 28,000 miles and now Four Bad tires and a car out of
    alignment. Does the warranty cover any part of this problem thanks.

    PAT
  • i'd check your build date, the earliest 2007's came out in august/september 2006, and it would be like the general to say that "your car was built 36 months and 2 weeks ago... so sorry". keep us abreast of your situation.
  • > Yeah, me too. I don't know what reaction that you'll get but it might be the same that I got when I asked about the unsightly corrosion on the the little center caps in the 18" SS wheels. I bought the extended warranty. My car had about 45,000 mi on it when i inquired and they told me that if I had reported it within the 36,000 miles that they could have taken care of it. Now those to replace are about $35.00 a piece. Very disappointing and add the flaking of the black trim pieces makes my 2007 Impala top of the line Chevy look like poop.
  • hey all. yep, i finally joined the fraternity of clunking ISS members. mine started several thousand miles ago, just past the 3/36, now sitting at 46,745, and of course i didn't drive it at all (that fell to the working wife). she has finally noticed it especially when the impala first gets going, but it does have the GM clunk most of the time. armed with as much info as i can about this defective item, what's the chances of getting this replaced by the company's coin? from everywhere i heave read, the general just absolutely can't seem to get this item right. i know there's an updated ISS, but has the new one been a proven winner, or just a stopgap? looking forward to hearing your feedback. thanks much... john..... 07 3LT
  • I have an 07 Impala SS, recently it started making a clanking noise when I het a bump, and a clunk, clunk, clunk noise when I went over 60, the sound was coming from the right rear corner, so I replaced the strut, now it makes a creak when I hit a bump, and the vehicle starts to shake a little at high speed, I am at a loss as to what is wrong here and I would greatly appreciate any help that anyone could give me. Thank you.
  • benomackbenomack Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Has anyone changed a battery in an 07 impala I need to change mine but I think you have to take off all kinds of **** to take it out is that true???
  • rysterryster Posts: 571
    To get to the battery, you have to unbolt and remove the black support bar that runs over the battery. Then unbolt and move the fuse box. Then unbolt the bars that secure the battery to the battery tray. Then it is a matter of wiggling the battery to carefully remove it from the car.
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