Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

mopar67

Its the "nature of the beast"!
At least he didn't tell you that you are not qualified to work on your Dakota............yet.

bpeebles

Did I actually say those words to you? I respectfully ask you to read it again.

Even my Dodge dealer is apparently not qualified to work on my Dakota...
** They told me that all of the factory documentation is WRONG and my 4.7L V8 is SUPPOSED to hold 5 quarts of oil.
** I was told that I left my gas cap loose thus causing a troublecode to be thrown... Alas they found a hose that had popped off its nipple.
** They "fixed" a bad headlamp bulb by "wiggling the wires"... that fix did not last very long!

I have spent a LIFETIME studying electrical and mechanical systems (since I could read!) My livelyhood involves the manufacture of computer chips which means I am constantly researching technology just to stay on top of my job.

I may be "abrasive" somtimes but I am the only "resident technical liazon" you have here in the Dakoata Maintaince forum. ;-)

bpeebles

Your answers...

What do you consider the break in period?
Start with the owners manual if you are asking about how to "treat" your engine during the critical first several 1000 miles.

I guess I consider an engine "broken in" when its operating paramaters stop changing thus indicating a constant-state condition.

Keep in mind that the 4.7L V8 tends to get better MPG and run more smooth up to about 15K-20K miles.

NEVER leave it idling to warm it up and ALWAYS drive smoothly and gently until the engine temp settels into the normal range.

When do you make the first oil change?
How often after the first?

How does this schedule sound?
1st change at 2K
2nd change at 4K
3rd change (and switch to synth) at 8K
...change every 4K therafter

When do you make the switch to synthetic?
I went to Castrol SYNTEC at 8K miles

I suggest you consider using a computer program such as "CARCare2000" to track all of your maintaince and remind you ahead of time for all scheduled items. It even draws graphs of your MPG over time.

mopar67

And realize some facets of human relations.

1. Never assume that others here do not possess the required knowledge to work on a Dakota or any other vehicle. I have been in the field of education since my teens yet I do not consider others unworthy of the skill of teaching. One of the best "teachers" I had lacked a PHd, even a basic high school diploma yet he taught me more about the people side of business than any phd I had in college.
2. Knowledge, even supreme knowledge of a given subject or discipline is fine. However, being abrasive and sometimes downright rude dilutes an intelligent person's arguemnt leading the opposite party to "blow you off" i.e. ignore what may well be sound advice.
In other words, delivery is just as important as subject matter. Example, I had an incredibly intelligent poly sci prof in college. Yet this person was "too smart" to relate to undergraduates and he frequently embarassed students in his class, was openly rude and disrespectful (of the very people who helped pay his salary by the way). THe price he paid was staying an associate professor for quite a few years and never getting tenure or a full professorship! Yes, those prof reviews are read by people who have your future in hand.
Later I found out this fellow had bounced around to 5 major universities in 12 years, all the while looking for a tenured position. Sad to say, he is probably living the life of nothing more than an "associate" professor yet he has all the necessary "paper" qualifications to become a full professor.
"Technical advisor" is indeed impressive.
Respect for others is a quality far more important than "book knowledge"
SOmething to think about.
Finally forgive me for "coming right back at you" but in the midwest where I grew up, it is common practice to stand up for oneself and "take the other to task" when rudeness is encountered.
SOmething to think about.:)

ford_bii

Since the boards have been a bit dead lately, I'll chime in...

Bpeebles states: "NEVER leave it idling to warm it up and ALWAYS drive smoothly and gently until the engine temp settels into the normal range."

To all those out there: don't worry one bit about idling to warm up the vehicle. 5 minutes in the morning will not hurt your vehicle. Myself and my family have been doing it for MANY years with MANY vehicles and all our vehicles go well over 100k without any major engine problems.

We've debated this issue before, but for the love of god, the last thing PA needs is more idiots driving down the street on a frosty morning trying to drive by staring through a little port hole they scraped in their windshield because bpeebles told them to "NEVER!" warm up their vehicle by idling.

I do agree with the second part of your statement. Take it easy on the gas until the truck warms up completely.

bpeebles

(mopar67)
Point taken... I am just concerned of anyone getting hurt under the hood because of my assuming they know what I was talking about. I have to be cognizant of this at all times. Please consider this as you read my appends in the future.

(ford_bii)
I never assumed anyone should drive without the glass cleared off. I use generous coatings of "RAIN-X". I also use a block heater and a windshield cover in the winter. (no garage)
Have you ever been inside an engine that has been routinely warmed up by extended idling? Go ahead and do it if you wish. Just do not be naive about what you are doing to your engine's internals.

(enfurio)
I can live with "ornery" ;-) You are correct about many of these "debates". EVERYBODY has a good point to make. It takes a keen observer to recognize each persons points and form an educated conclusion. Sometimes, folks come to an incorrect conclusion because they did not fully understand the facts that were presented to them or did not have all of the pieces of the puzzle so the picture is not clear.

bookitty

Guys, although your arguments regarding driving slowly and blindly simultaneously are well received, Bruce (bpeebles) is correct. One of the reasons I always purchase and use an engine block heater is to circumvent the dangerous part of driving slowly and to avoid warming a cold engine at idle. It is a practice that is not recommended for any internal combustion engine. All of the construction equipment and heavy duty trucks that I have been involved with during my long career had manuals stating that idling is not the proper way to bring the engine to operating temperature. Driving the equipment (and cars and light trucks as well) slowly and carefully, promotes warming of all components thus allowing lubrication and circulation to occur. It is after the prime mover is warmed, that extraneous hydraulic and any other mechanical apparatus can be warmed as well. This practice will contribute greatly to the longevity of the product. I realize that Bruce may appear somewhat abrasive at times, but remember he is the person who will provide good information no matter the effort. He is indeed a very bright guy (not that there are not many other "bright guys" who contribute to this forum.) But in this particular subject, although his answer may not be convenient, it is absolutely correct.

Bookitty

mopar67

and talk about our toys!
After all, tis the season to be JOLLY! NOT abrasive or onery! There's plenty of time for that later.
Enfurio, I agree with all your points and they are interesting to say the least. Only one point I don't agree with is the "friend in MExico buying his own shi**y car" (paraphrasing your quote)
Real time purchasing power of Mexican middle and lower class has fallen dramatically since the passage of NAFTA (and the subsequent devaluation of the peso). Accordingly, the typical Mexican worker has LESS purchasing ability at present. And you betcha I agree with the statement about the six figure VP making these decisions to move work to those places.
Ok anyone else here waterfowl hunt? DId anyone get anything other than a face full of feathers like I did last week? (Giving it up for a week to go back to Indiana, cannot afford out of state raping, er, I mean hunting license)
Final note, the CC has dropped off in mileage since the onset of cold weather (COuld it be that idling thing? Last tank of SHeetz returned 14.1 on typical mixed town and hiway driving.
Otherwise aside for a clunk in the left front caliper (sigh, what else is new with the brakes on this thing anyway?) it is actually behaving itself
For once!

ahasher

well I'll jump in with an update question on our much debated PCM flash for the idle. My idle is still smooth and not a hint of stuttering or wanting to stall, either in the AM or after a highway stop. I do notice an ocasional very slight roughness at idle when up to operating temp... probably just the gas, as I have been shopping for <.99 per gallon here.

So how has your idle been behaving as the cooler days approach (when my problem first started, early last spring)??

And before I miss the opportunity to catch anyone here, MERRY CHRISTMAS and BE SAFE!
Bill

mopar67

Still smooth just like you said. No stalls, surges, or bucks or nuthin'
HOvering around 1.03 for BP sheetz, Sunoco, and Amoco. I use all 4 pretty consistently.
Mileage has dropped off a bit, but it has done that since day one during cooler weather, but it picks right back up when spring time comes.

bmwjoe

Hi,

I have a 1998 Dakota with the 5.2l V8. A couple of times last year I had a no start in the winter. The battery would not even light the radio. I jumped the truck with a tiny (small motorcycle) battery and the truck started right up. (I believe this battery is not enough to start V8) This fall I have had a couple of mornings when the truck's battery was low and it started, but very reluctantly.

I charged the battery with a trickle charger and the truck started very enthusistacally this morning. My voltmeter in the dash reads 14.5V when the truck is running.

I drive the truck occasionally, only on rainey days and it only had 17k miles. However, each of the times I have had problems was when I drove the truck the day before.

What would be "normal" battery life?

Is this a "normal" intermitent failure?

Drive Safe,

Joe

mailman54

Joe: I have a 91 Dakota with the 5.2 V-8. I went through several batteries before I finally upgraded to a more powerfull battery. The stock battery is definitely a dud. On my 00 Dakota with the 4.7 V-8, I went with the heavy duty service group to get the 136-amp alternator and 750-amp battery versus the stock 117-amp alternator and 600-amp battery. Also had a problem with the under hood light on the 91 Dakota sticking on and slowly draining my battery. After that experience, I took out the bulb completely and now use a flashlight when looking under the hood.

Mailman

bookitty

Joe, I too had a premature battery failure in my 1995 V-8 Dakota. I woke up one morning in Baltimore, and it would not crank. I got a jump start and drove to my dealer (construction equipment) checked, cleaned and tightened all of the cables and connections, but to no avail. They handled Interstate batteries but did not have a suitable replacement. As I was working with one of their sales people, he followed me to Sears where I left the truck. When I came to pick it up,
I looked at the battery which appeared minuscule compared to the original (I had the HD service group). I was assured by the person at Sears that it was indeed the correct battery and mumbled something about a high energy unit. The next week I was in NH where it was quite cold and it barely started my truck even though the block heater was plugged in overnight. I went to the local Sears and was told that the battery was for the 4 cylinder engine. They replaced it with the proper battery and attempted to charge me for the difference. I told them to collect it from the idiot they hired in Baltimore. Moral of the story:
From a friend who sold us the OEM batteries for our equipment came the following: If you put the batteries on a scale and weigh them, you won't go far wrong choosing the heaviest one. Joe, make certain that you check all connections for cleanliness and integrity and check the charging system as well. There is also a way to tell if there is a load placed on the battery when the vehicle is parked, but I am not certain how that is done. Perhaps one of our more knowledgeable members can help you with that.

Bookitty

cbacres1

say its been slow here the past couple days. As always, enjoy the info that comes across this forum. Anyway, up to 18K on my 6-1/2 month old QC. Everything holding up real well, except for the Goodyear tires that I won't replace when the time comes.( not a very forgiving tire)

Happy Holidays to everyone.

bmwjoe

FWIW I have the heavy duty service group including the bigger battery. I did not think of the hood light. I will have to check into it.

Drive Safe,

Joe

bpeebles

Thanks... I appreceate the support. 8-)

bpeebles

(bmwjoe) I suspect that you have somting draining the battery while it is sitting. Some quick tests with an ammeter would be of value. or... without that tool, look for any lights that are not turning off. (under the hood, in the glove, etc) Have you installed ANY aftermarket equipment such as a radio or CB?

I assume that you pulled and cleaned both battery terminals. Your 14.5 volts while running does NOTHING for the battery if poor connections are inhibiting the charging. In fact, this is one fallasy with a voltmeter to detect charging... it DOES NOT measure the actual current into the system. Poor connections will show HIGHER voltage on the internal gauge. An ammeter is the proper way to measure charging current. (Ammeter measure CURRENT.... Voltmenter measures VOLTAGE)

Most auto-parts stores will test your battery for FREE.... just charge it fully before taking it in for testing. (so it gets diagnosed properly) This is the most reliable way to test the "health" of your battery.

mopar67

I would avoid sears batteries if you are looking for a replacement.
Around 1996 Sears cancelled its contract with Johnson COntrols (a sears supplier for batteries since the 1930's) and went with Exide.
Now I cannot say if Sears is making Exide upgrade is line for the diehard name.
When I worked at Kmart we sold Exide and Delco batteries. The exides we sold covered ALL price points from cheapo to mucho buckage.
We sold three lines of Delco
In five years, I would say we had a return rate of over 60% on Exide batteries and maybe a 10% return rate on Delco.
Main cause of failure on Exide batteries was failure to hold a charge.

Food for thought.

bpeebles

(mopar67) VERY interesting. Up till now, I had always sworn by die-hard. I have NEVER had one go bad when properly treated. Have not purchased one since 1996... 2 of my 3 vehicles have Die-Hards.

One Other point to understand about LeadAcid batterys... The aging process (sulphiding of the plates) begins the moment that the acid is put into the battery. One thing that I like about Sears batteries is that they store them "dry" from the factory and install the acid at time of purchase.

Some stores put acid into the batteries and store them on the shelves for many months awaiting you to come in and buy it. (DO NOT BUY THESE BATTERIES!!)

Storing a LeadAcid battery with a low charge promotes the sulphiding of the plates. This builds up a layer of INSULATION on the plates. (exactly what you do NOT want) This is the most common failure mode of a LA battery. It will not take a charge well and cannot dispense much current.

Being able to recognize the charge charactoristics (voltage -vs- current) of a battery with sulphiding has enabled me to diagnose battery problems quickly.

Understanding the chemistry of LA batteries can help prolong their life. Following some simple guidelines will add YEARS to the life of one.

mopar67

we're all paying for some degree of "loss" of potential battery life. Thank you wally world and Kmart for this!
bpeebles you might be interested to know at the Marathon station were I performed duties (in high school) including that of a petroleum transfer engineer, I also "juiced" up the batteries we sold to customers as replacements. They were NIK-O-LIFE brand if I recall, shipped bone dry. We had a large container of acid and those batteries did not get acid till time of sale.
Rarely did we have a comeback on those.

ALso, learn how to read the DATE CODE stamped on the battery case itself. YOu would be surprised that your "New" battery is in fact months, sometimes years old! Trust me on this, I moved lots of "lead" in my days at kmart.

The LAST thing you want to do is allow the alternator on your rig to charge this battery. As bpeebles said, sulphate is bad news. When you run a hot charge into the battery, the sulphate which by now has settled to the bottom of the battery case will "tree" and typically short one of the cells. Result, bad battery.
The charging system on modern vehicles is designed to maintain a high state of charge; they are NOT for charging a totally dead battery. Do that often enough and soon you'll need a new alternator or worse, a PCM (since the PCM on our Daks controls charge rate)
For that, you need a slow charger something like 6-10 amps at MOST.
Sad to say, its difficult to find places anymore that will add acid to your newly purchased battery. Everyone wants the 20 minute special, the only way to do that is push the "sealed for life" (a misnomer if there ever was one) batterys which are ready to go. We can thank the quick lubes for that one!
I agree bpeebles, in years past DIEHARD was the battery of choice. ANd despite my youth,I do recall watching the guy fill the battery and SLOWLY charge it for my dad.
Days gone by.............

slr9589

slr9589

Bpeebles,
thank you for the overview on pickup rear end dynamics vs slippery conditions.I have driven p/u's since my first new toyota in 1983...in central ma.Usually 300 pounds of sand did the job nicely.
i looked at tire rack and was impressed with there info....pricing was metz-a-metz but at least competitive.i am leaning towards a 215-75-15 michelin Rain tire...tire rack and super walmart have it for the same price...83.00.on one hand you got no 8%sales tax...versus paying for shipping !
all you guys have a great holiday season,
stephen

pomyc

bpeebles,

Awhile back you gave an excellent account of your experience changing out your OEM spark plugs with the Bosch Platinum +4's. I am fixing to change my plugs and spoke to my Dodge service dept. today.

Of course, the service rep. said that he would not recommend anything but the OEM plug. He said they have had many a vehicle come into the shop running very rough and others with a check engine light on. He said with today's engines being electronically controlled, the computer may have difficulty adjusting to the new plug. He said the shop has seen these troubles caused by Split-Fire, regular platinum and +4 plugs.

While I have trouble believing this considering both Ford and GM use a platinum long life plug as OEM in thier next generation engines (one of which I owned before my Dakota), I was wondering what you have experienced with the +4's in your Dakota? Your input is greatly appreciated.

bpeebles

(pomyc) I understand your concerns about spending almost $50 for sparkplugs, An hour installing them, then possibly end up with a poor-running engine.

I can tell you that I spent almost a week researching what sparkplugs to use in the 4.7L V8 hemi. I searched 100s of appends in many different forums on the subject. I had several pages of notes and tabulated the results. (Keep in mind that my JOB involves research and Development in the high-tech world of making computer chips.)

Yes, there were reports that some sparkplugs are poor performers in some engines. Clearly, one should not generalize about what works well in all engines.

No sparkplug will "add" power to an engine. But a sparkplug that is a consistant performer over many miles of use is optimal. As I have said in the past Bosch invented the original sparkplug. Bosch also adds nickle-plating on the threads, special insulator compounds, and other improvements that are simply not found on the everyday AC and Champion products.

BOTTOM LINE:
The Bosch +4 #4418 came out as the clear winner for the 4.7L. I have been running them for over a month which covered a 500-mile trip too. I am pleased with the results.

bpeebles

For those of you that are fed up with the brake problems and
want to put some quality rotors on your Dakota... see my append in the "Dakota accessorys" forum.

livnlrn

Noticed this awhile ago...but kept forgetting to ask. The drain holes in the bottom of my doors came covered over with tape. Almost looks like scotch tape. Should those have been removed? Or is there a reason I should have left the tape on those square holes?

Asher and Mopar... My idle has been great since the PCM flash. I am sure that it would have been stalling by now with the cold.

hairydog

Dak 4x4 hit 16,000k and rotors are warped again. Mopar welcomed me to the junk brake club 8k ago. It is inconceivable that D/C does not address their defective parts. Everywhere I travel a heated discussion comes up on Dodge and Jeep junk brakes that owners have across this nation. Mayor of Truckville? or should it be Junkville!!

mopar67

it may well be the powerslots that bpeebles got in on.
Other than the brakes and a couple of other diddly issues, I can say the Dakota does well for me. If DC would address some other issues (like brakes) the Dak would be top of the class.
Notice on the new RAM, DC went to 13 inch rotors all the way around, with 4 piston calipers on front.
That seems to me a tacit admission of poorly designed brakes on the 1st gen ram. This is seconded by my friendly service manager at my friendly 5 star dealership. He also said Jeep GC has had mucho brake problems also, specifically warped rotors.
The warped brake rotor and drum club is a club which I soon to distance myself from!

bpeebles

Although my brakes have never warped, I have other problems that I am attempting to correct (and expect to avert any "warpage")

My problems are as follows;
1) In damp weather the front wheels "lock up" with the slightest touch of the brake pedal. This becomes very tricky on snow-covered roads while in 4HI.
2) The black brake dust that coats the front wheels.

With the GREAT price I got on the powerslot rotors and some of the new titanium/ceramic pads, I expect to have better brakes and virtually NO ugly black dust on the front wheels.

BTW.. I have a friend that just bought a NEW 2001 RAM (leftover) He said he test-drove the all-new 2002 RAM and the brakes on that were MUCH MUCH better than the 2001.... but the price was more than he could bear :-(

yank2

The day I took my buy back Dakota Quad back the brakes started to act up. But your friend is right the brakes are much better on the 2002 Ram they are a lot like the ones on my corvette they have the same feel to me.

ragemage76

Hopefully someone can help a little. I have a '97 dakota with the 3.9 V6. It started stalling at lights and stop signs not even a week ago.It keept stalling and now will not start at all. New battery, cap, and rotor. Fuel pressure is fine, it's getting spark, no trouble codes displayed besides 12 which is battery has been disconnected. Shift indicator light now flashes when trying to start it. Manual tranny. My guess is the wiring harness. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this happening? I thought it might have been water in the gas, but that isn't the problem either. I'm out of ideas and would greatly appreciate anyone's help on this.

mopar67

Got 17.5 on trip Indiana on BP 87 octane running about 70 MPH no AC.

decentman4you

01 4x4 4.7 auto/awd, QC heavy-duty everything, all options. 12,600 miles no problems with brakes. mileage is 12-14mpg tromping around Houston TX, though on my trips to Dallas @ 60mph/cruise-control I get 20-21mpg regular Diamond-shamrock 87oct.

Since I dont drive this vehicle much how far apart 'time wise' should I let the Oil-changes go? Last oil change was in May @ 9,600 miles, is there any harm in leaving the oil in there? The Dealer has been the one changing the oil for me.

I do drive this vehicle at least twice a week; "the QC" I rotate amoung the 87 Nissan Kingcab that allowed me to save long enough to be able to buy this QC for CASH :-), and my Honda Trail CT-110 grocery-getter.

When should get around to changing the Spark Plugs, do I need to? the QC runs fine.
What's the Best Oil filter to use? is the dealer's OF ok? or should I purchase aftermarket? if so which one?

As far as the " Beer " Discussions go... I'll still stick to Koolaid :-)

bpeebles

(decentman4you) The main "risk" to extending the oil changes is the possibility of moisture build-up within the crankcase. (Condensation from temperture swings and humidity changes)

With todays motor-oils... Ill bet NO ONE ever "wears out" the oil. We all change our oil to remove the impuritues, acid, water and other nasties.

When you say you drive your Dak a couple times a week... are these short trips (20-30 minutes) or are you driving long enough to "burn off" the moisture in the oil?

If your occasional driving is enough to keep the moisture build-up burned off... then by all means save some $$ by extending the oil-change intervals.

The owners manual says 7,500 miles and you should beleive it. I have owned many vehicles that saw 7,500 mile changes and they went well over 100,000 miles with no engine troubles.


The people that advocate 3,000 mile oil change intervals are the very same people that make a living changing your oil.

bmwjoe

I change all my own oil. I go on the 3 month/3000 mile theory. I drive my motorcycles mostly so there is little milage on the Dakota. I change my wife's car's oil at 3000 miles. I change the Dakota's oil at the same time, which is at about 3 months. Once in the summer I skipped one because I only had 700 miles on the truck oil.

I keep my vehicles a long time and it takes very little money to change the oil. When I sell my vehicles it always impresses the buyers to see lots of oil changes.

Drive Safe,

Joe

fourgivn1

Just for the record, I have a 2002 Dakota SLT Club Cab, V6 auto. 2 basic questions. The first concerns spark plugs. Exactly what does buying 'premium' spark plugs do for you? I'm an electronics technician so I understand the theory behind using plugs with premium materials (such as metals that have a higher conductance) but what I want to know is, what specifically does it increase or add to your truck?

The second question concerns HP. I eventually (within a year or so) want to purchase a cold air intake and/or a new exhaust system to increase HP/MPG. However, I also know that depending upon what you buy, it can drop low end torque as well. What manufacturers provide the 'best' combination (by that I mean ideal increase in HP/MPG and minimal decrease in torque)?

mopar67

ANd my our BOBS be close at hand when the need should arise!
MAy your rotors and drums run straight and true!
MAy your idles be firm and steady.
May your 45RFE shift seemlessly and smoothly (on the other hand, that may be asking for TOO much!)

Finally, may allof you have a wonderful holiday season and a happy new year to boot!

bpeebles

It is good to hear from somone else that is familear with the technical field. (see my profile)


1) ...what specifically does it increase or add to your truck?
Nothing! All a sparkplug can do is ignite the FA mixture at the approprate time in a reliable fasion. Since it takes time/effort to change the sparkplugs... it makes sense to install quality parts that last a long time and will not rip the aluminum threads out of the heads when removed. (nickel-plating RULES)


2)...What manufacturers provide the 'best' combination...
If you are refering to the 4.7L V8 hemi, my extensive research has shown that the standard equipment is pretty good. (Intake plenum, Exhaust manifold, exhaust system) Many aftermarket manufactures have found it VERY difficult to get any REAL improvements. (they can move the power around within the RPM range)

If you find anyting different from this... please let us ALL know about it.

fourgivn1

Alas, I am not referring to the Hemi V8, although I wish I were. (I did note that I had a V6 in my post, but hey, I miss stuff all the time, so no big deal. I woulda got the V8, but it's my understanding that if you basically want to tow stuff occasionally, and just have decent passing power in traffic, the V6 is more than adequate.)

As far as the spark plug thing goes, I kind of thought that was the case. One thing I would like to know is why ANYONE would buy a spark plug with 'split paths.' Anyone who has done ANY studies in electronics/electrical theory knows that electricity takes the path of least resistance, and that means that one of the paths is going to have a bit more resistance, and therefore is going to be sitting there not doing a lot. *L*

As far as the V6 goes, from what I understand, you can play around and get more out of it than you can with the V8, due to the fact that the V6 is essentially the 360 with 2 cylinders lopped off. (I think.) All I personally want is better gas mileage (I think EVERY Dodge owner wants better gas mileage), and an intake and an exhaust system should cover that. As far as my technical skills go, it came from my nuclear theory studies. (I'm in the Navy as an electronics tech now, and used to be a nuclear reactor operator.) It didn't specifically center on mechanics, but we did a little of everything (and I do mean everything) and common sense rounds it out.

fourgivn1

Can anyone recommend a good brakepad manufacturer? I just got my truck and it has only about 600 miles on it, but from what it sounds like, I'd better start planning for brake pads and such. (Although I do have to say that thus far I am extremely pleased with the truck.)

surffla1

Picked up my graphite metallic Quad Cab on December 22nd. On the afternoon of the 26th I noticed a "keyed" type scratch on the front passenger door just below the mirror. About 5 inches in length, very fine but looks like it went through some outer layer(s) of clear coat and or paint to varying levels throughout the length of the scratch. I have no idea when or how it happened! Wall Mart parking lot souvenir is my best guess. Took it to a local body shop with a good reputation. They were nice enough to rub a little cleaner and light compound polish on it which made it a lot less noticeable. Guy said when I get my first wax it will probably take it out even a little more. He said to take it out completely though that I would have to have the whole door repainted! That sounded a little extreme to me. Is it possible to get the scratch repaired professionally without painting the whole door? I found a web site called autotopia, for extreme car detailing nuts (show cars) and a very detailed process for repairing chips and scratches was described that would seem to be the better way to go to me. However my preference would be to have a professional do it. Then again maybe I should just leave well enough alone and accept the fact that my truck is going to take a few hits over the years and move on. At this point a casual observer probably would not even notice it unless I pointed it out. But I'm not a casual observer. This is my baby and she's only a few days old. All thoughts, ideas, and suggestions, including sympathy gladly accepted.

bookitty

Patrick, although my body and fender experience is quite limited,
my ability to feel badly for you is not. It is a very aggravating moment to find that the brand new unblemished shiny truck has been scratched due to someone else's carelessness, who is probably driving an 1984 Tempest or such. I can tell you that there is some "poetic justice" once in a while. Recently someone pushed their emptied shopping cart to rest at my rear bumper. As they began to back out of the parking space, I returned the favor by pushing their very own cart behind their car. It made a terrible racket, and they were quite angry even after I explained that they ran over their "very own" shopping cart. They were nevertheless incensed, but possibly "got it" because the husband pushed the cart to the rack located almost twenty feet away. A very spiritual and athletic endeavor. I did wish them a nice day, but was ignored. Feel better?

Bookitty

bobs5

"poetic justice" rules! Great story.
Seems some people are just too lazy to walk the cart 20 feet, see it all the time. At one shopping center, I saw a cart freewheel down the incline of the parking lot and ram someones bumper.

surffla1....The first scratch is the worst and most traumatic. I have a few as well. Also a minor crinkle underneath the drivers side rear quarter panel at the seam area. Backed over something at a friends driveway, not sure, but think it was a stump or log that was hit. dooh

The scratch may be able to be polished out if not too deep.
Good luck,
Bob

bpeebles

I have read that the ol V6 does indeed respond well to aftermarket stuff (intake, exhaust)

It sounds to me as if you have read the same things and are looking for mor specifics. have you reviewed the DML? (Dakota Mailing List) It is cumbersome to review the information but the ARCHIVES are full of good tidbits.

http://www.dakota-truck.net/

ALso check out the Dakota forums here too.

http://www.dodgedakotas.com/board.htm

mopar67

copied and pasted from Reuters.




(Reuters)&#151;Sears, Roebuck and Co., the No. 4 U.S. retailer, said Thursday it reached a $63 million settlement with the U.S. government over the sale of defective auto batteries, resulting in a fourth-quarter charge of 12 cents a share.

The U.S. Attorney's Office for the Southern District of Illinois charged that a unit of Sears defrauded consumers by misrepresenting some of its DieHard brand batteries in 1994 and 1995 as the ``longest lasting,'' when the batteries were defective.

``The investigation related to this matter has gone on for more than two years,'' Sears Chairman and Chief Executive Alan Lacy said in a statement. ``Faced with the continuing expense and distraction of protracted litigation, we have decided that settling it now is in the best interests of all of our constituents.''

The batteries were manufactured by Exide Technologies Inc. Exide pleaded guilty to conspiracy to commit fraud in March and agreed to pay a $27.5 million fine in connection with the 1994 contract to sell 750,000 DieHard batteries to Sears.

The batteries in question contained manufacturing flaws that included leaks and wrongly labeled terminal posts.

Sears ended its relationship with Exide in 1999 and turned to other manufacturers for its batteries.

I wonder who is making batteries for Sears now?

Other note, returned to my homestead in W PA on Shell gas at 18.5 MPG in 20 degree weather running on average, 70 or so.
>>>>>>Ahahser, left truck outside in Indiana 3 nights with temps down to 10, 16 and 14 respectively.
Truck started fine and idled perfectly.

steve234

Since I am at the 30k mark, I went to my 1st choice parts house for tranny oil and plugs.. Not one of the parts houses had heard of ATF+4. The NAPA store called tech support . The support guy must had heard query before as he did not have to look up the number. However, we couldn't get a price and the oil has to come from St Louis. The only stuff available is Valvoline Synthetic blend (NAPA part # 324). I am going to call a wholesale oil jobber tomorrow and see if they can get me a full synthetic.

The NAPA dealer also has to order the plugs as they are out of the Autolites I asked for. At AutoZone, they listed the Bosch Platinum +4, but the manager said they would not sell them for the 4.7 engine as they had 5 sets fail to work with that engine. I remember seeing something on not using platinum plugs on the coil on plug engines, possibly on DML.

Not trying to start any arguments. I was planning to go to a copper core plug anyway. I would be interested in finding who makes a ATF+4 synthetic tranny oil, in anyone knows.

bmwjoe

The coil on plug thing may be real. I also have a Saab, which has used this system for a number of years. People report problems with platinum plugs on the newer Saabs.

Drive Safe,

Joe

fourgivn1

Yeah, actually I was/am looking for more specifics. I only bought my Dakota 2 weeks ago, but when I buy something I do A LOT of research. I just want to make sure that by the time I buy something, I have fully researched it. Right now future mods planned are probably a K&N intake, V8 TB/cable conversion, and a Dynomax 2.5" in/out muffler, or possibly a Flowmaster kit. Any suggestions, anyone?

ron35

surffla1 - Re your entry on scratch removal. I have had very good luck with a product called GS 27, it comes in 2 versions, one is just a plain tube and the other includes various coloring sticks which can be used to fill in deep scratches. I have had very good success with this product. It goes for about $12 - $14 and I believe is available at most automotive stores, believe I got mine at BJs and Pep Boys.

Ron35

rjay

I second the GS-27 recommendation. I just used it to take out a scratch on my brand new QC l;ast night (the garage door came down on the tailgate...oops) It works real well on clear coat scratches. I reapplied it over the area about 10 times, each time the scratch got less noticable until it was gone!!!! You mighty also want to check out www.griotsgarage.com I've had good luck with their products as well.