Harold, well said. Redroses, take heed and follow Harold's advice. Above all, be confident and stay in charge of the situation. Car dealers as well as others prey upon the uninformed. Good luck, and remember that we are here to support all the folks within the forum.
Once you figure out what options you want on your new Dakota, I highly recommend negotiating by sending faxes with your requirements to all the dealers that are in reasonable distance from your home. Back in October I used the "Fax Attack" method described at http://www.fightingchance.com and I ended up ordering my new Dakota for $341 under invoice. After deducting the $500 Farm Bureau and $1000 Dodge rebates, I ended up paying $1841 under invoice!
Thanks to all for your advise and input. I put together the options I want and faxed it out today to 4 dealerships. Also sent an internet inquiry. No great deals from the faxed requests, although all responded. The best quote so far was from the internet inquiry. Interestingly enough it was from one of the same dealerships I faxed to. The internet quote was $1400 less. Well, now it's time to pit one against the other. One last question. Is there a difference between the $1000 rebate, and the $1000 cash allowance Dodge is offering, or is it two words for the same thing? If they are two different programs, I am assuming they can be combined together. Let me know soon, the rebate expires Jan 8th.
redroses, Yes, "rebate", "cash allowance", and "incentive" all mean the same thing -- there is only one of them available. This is money that Dodge headquarters gives you to help pay for the price you negotiated with your local dealer -- it does not come out of the local dealers pocket (although they may try to act like it does). You should be able to negotiate a before-rebate price which is close to dealer invoice, so the actual number of dollars coming out of your pocket ends up being about $1000 LESS than dealer invoice.
You should also be aware that if you order a truck instead of buying off the lot, the only rebates which apply are those which are in effect on the day that you RECEIVE the truck, not when you ORDER the truck. If you order a Dakota now, you'll just have to cross your fingers and hope that Dodge puts a new rebate program in place after Jan 8th. If a dealer tries to make any promises about the rebates which will be in effect when you receive the truck, make them put in writing.
redroses, congratulations on trying the "fax" method of negotiation. After you get the initial responses, you can usually two or more dealers to bid each other down by calling each of them back and saying something like "Thank you for responding to my fax. I got an offer from dealer XX which was $YY lower than your offer, so I'm going to go with them unless you can make a better offer." Some dealers will just say OK and let you go, but some that really want your business will respond with a lower offer. Then you just go back and forth on the phone between each dealer until you have given each of them a chance to beat your lowest offer.
Finally, (sorry this is so long) the $1400 spread in your initial responses is pretty high. Make sure that all of the dealers are quoting you either before-rebate or after-rebate prices to be sure that your comparing apples to apples.
For 2001 models the $1000 cash allowance good through 1/22/01.
If you will be ordering, be aware that it may not arrive in time to take advantage of the rebate. My truck took 5 weeks from time of order to delivery. The dealer informed me that factory orders are placed on Wednesdays and Fridays. I ordered on a Friday so it was placed immediately with the factory.
I want to thank you all for the information I have received here. Ordered my CC SLT last week, Sliver, 4.7, auto,tow package, tire and handeling, everything but CD changer and bucket seats. The dealer put the $1000.00 rebate on the order form saying it was good as long as the order was placed before 1/8/01. If any of you hate to deal with sales people like I do, through Costco you can get $300.00 over invoice with no negotiating with the dealer. The $1000.00 still comes off this and then the Farm Bureau $500.00. Received my Farm Bureau application last night. My cost out the door after tax, plates and the rest is $22,100.00. Thanks again for the information I have received from this site.
I'll add my two cents. I think that in any area with a few dealers to choose from, you should be able to at least get an invoice deal. This time of year is especially slow for most. I have friend that is a dealer but lives 7 hours away. He told me I could have an invoice deal with no problem. I called local dealers and asked for a sales rep. Told them I had an invoice deal and would rather deal locally if I could. Both agreed to it over the phone. I went with the closest dealer. This is a no work deal for them, it takes practically none of their time. I think this also works best if you are ordering since the dealers make the most on a vehicle if you buy it as soon as it hits their floor plan. Just to show you there is also room under invoice. The day I went to order my truck I called my friend's dealership to thank him for the invoice offer and tell him I had decided to get a vehicle closer to home. The message was relayed to him later. I then went to the local dealer, ordered my truck and put the deposit down. When I got home, there was a phone message from my friend's assistant saying that he'd sell me one for $500 under invoice. His price was before any rebates also. I know he will never make a deal with ANYONE without making some money. I justified it by thinking I'll have a bit better service from a dealer that I bought it from. My friend agreed with me on that point when I spoke with him later to thank him for the below invoice deal offer. Happy negotiating, 2nddak
Hey guys! I think I am close to making the deal. I will have to order the truck I want. It comes up to $19641 invoice. The best offer I have gotten was $500 over invoice. That is $1500 under MSRP. This does not include the $1000 rebate and the $500 Farm Bureau discount. I have been playing 5 dealers against each other and no one is willing to go lower. What do you think? I am going to put $6000 down and finance the rest. Now I have to look for the best finance deal. Ugh! I will be glad when it's all over. Thanks for all your input. Redroses
Linda, if that is the best deal you could come up with, and if it includes the advertising and mailing bumps, there is very little that you can do. One caution, do not put forth a huge deposit. I ordered my truck (2000) and left a deposit of $100.00. I paid $125.00 over invoice plus an advertising curtailment less the Farm Bureau discount. There were no rebates available, nor were there any special finance deals from the manufacturer. Search rates from the dealer, your own bank and via the Interned. My wife recently purchased an SUV, and traded her '93 SUV. The rate quoted from the dealer was high, but they did meet a rate that we had pulled from our personal bank. It was close enough so that it paid us to use the local dealer. We also priced the vehicle from several sources and again, used the local dealer allowing them to get competitive. It made for much more convenience when seeking service. It may pay you to go for one more shot with the closest and therefore most convenient dealer. Tell them that you are prepared to order today and that means no hold back for them (this is a 3% floor plan hold back, depending upon the amount of time that the vehicle is floor planned). You may have to address this with the sales manager. Make absolutely certain as to what options you want and need, so that you will not be disappointed somewhere down the line. If you care to, you may post and/or "I" mail the chosen options for discussion. It sounds as if you have done your homework and I wish you the best of luck. Let us know how you progress.
Bookitty
PS: Many search engines offer local sites for comparison financing for automobiles and/or light trucks.
Perhaps the dealers aren't budging because they figure it is easier to get a higher price from a woman. It is certainly documented in some articles. You should try the trick of calling a few of the salses rep you've delt with to thank them for all their help and time with the search. Then tell them that you've decided to go with XYZ dealer because their price was "X" (lets say $100 over invoice). That may generate an invoice deal for you. Good luck
Need feedback about NV244HD full-time 4WD transfer case option. I know how it's supposed to work and about various drive sytems from personal experience, but am wondering about how satisfied users of this option actually are and about any service problems. Ready to order 4.7 ClubCab Sport w/ all options + HD everything, including 3.92 and overload springs, but just need to decide on this final touch. If it's as good as my Jeep QuadraTrac, it's just what I've been waiting for in a P/U for a long time! Mucho gracias! (PS: Nuts to I'net, fax, etc. sales! My local dealer will order for $175 over true invoice + I get $1K rebate -- no sweat!)
John, I don't think that the Dodge Dakota version of full time 4WD is as good and/or sophisticated as that of the Jeep. I personally, having owned and driven 4WD vehicles since the 1950's (includes military experience) would not opt for full time 4WD in any vehicle save the Jeep. I have found them to promote excessive tire wear and to be fuel inefficient. The two that I owned (Ford) because I purchased in stock vehicles, I ended up converting using Warn hubs. With "shift on the fly" I cannot personally justify their use in conditions other than constantly extreme. That is my honest opinion. The Jeep system is superior to just about all others, but many of those vehicles are sold to (excuse the expression, no offense intended) to "soccer moms" and other folks who haven't a clue as regards 4WD vehicles. My wife is amazed as to how many of her friends and co-workers own 4WD and cannot and/or will not use them. They stay home when the winter weather becomes inclement. Remember John, this is only my opinion and nothing more. Whatever route you choose, good luck.
Thanks, "B'k". Guess I'll just watch a few days to see if any others chime in who like this option, or who agree with you. I sure like my full-time 4WD "QuadraTrac in my '93 Grand Cherokee here in SLC, UT, with it's well engineered viscous couplings, no fnt whl "kickback" in turns, etc. Two things really good about it for our wx and terrain: It's not speed limited & it's always on, which is nice for patchy slick spots/snow/ice, so you don't have to go for the engage handle/button off&on as road conditions change or supprise you. Anyway, I'll just watch to see what others say. You're right about most 4WD owners! There a HUGE amount of extra transaxle wt and friction being drug around w/ millions of gallons of fuel wasted by millions of "soccer moms" and Yuppies clueless about what's going on...like they really think it's real "4 wheel drive," right? Even with posi-trac rear end, unless it's a Hummer or old Dodge PowerWagon, the best they have is 3 wheel drive,and, w/o a locking rear differential, it's only 2 wheel drive, 1 front & 1 rear! It's all about marketing to fools... Adios.
I have a 2000 with the full time unit in it. Its a 4.7 with the 3.92 limited slip, tire and handling pkg, towing, HD service, and skid plate groups, and an auto. So far in the first 12,500 miles its worked flawless. There is no wheel hop or kickback when the wheels are fully locked. I get 17 mpg in mixed driving and my tires seem to be wearing ok for now. The unit moves in and out of 4wd without hardly noticing it, which for a mechanical guy like me can be a bit unnerving. One of the features I like is that it still maintains the lo and hi lock overrides. I use my truck off road at times and live in snow country so it gets used. I have been pleasantly surprised at how well it has worked, and my wife likes the convenience. Having said all of that, I probably would not have bought the truck with it in it. I got a really great deal on a month old repo that the dealer had to sell as a used vehicle and it was in it. I agree with Bookitty that with shift on the fly it really isn't needed, and could be just one more thing to go wrong. Only time will tell about the reliability, but so far no problems.
Thanks,eglide, for just the kind of feedback which helps! I'll watch and wait a little while, but, unless I see something more negative, I'm inclined to go for it for the main reasons I said: It's not speed limited, and it's always "on," with the "Hi" & "Lo" lock-up options where needed -- perfect for a place like Utah! Guess I might just be one of the few "test cases" for this, obviously not very well-known or popular, Dakota option (although dealer says lots of Duangos are sold w/ it). Two last questions: How is your unloaded/empty box ride w/ HD springs -- sure it's stiffer, but still reasonably comfortable? Finally, one guy told me he had an earlier model 5.2 Dak w/3.92 diff. that he got rid of because the motor AND driveline howled and vibrated so much above 65-70mph it "very annoying and felt like it was on verge of coming apart." How 'bout yours?
ihsalways, The truck rides great (for a truck anyway). I had a 94 Dakota club cab with standard springs and this one rides far better. I think Dodge really got it right. Even my wife who is not a "truck person" likes to drive this one. As far as vibration is concerned there is none. At 70 mph I am only turning 2300 RPM in overdrive so it really isn't working hard at all. I do have 31 X 10.50 tires on it, so that helps to make up for the lower ratio in the rear. Kinda like having the 3.55 with standard tires. My dealer also told me that a lot of Durangos get the full time unit as well, and talking to the service manager they said there hasn't been any problems with them.
Excellent. Guess I'll go for it and order before long. May come back some time later w/ a follow-up of how it works out. Very interested to see how it compares to QuadraTrac I'm used to.
Now I'll be looking for a good BB discussing after-mkt performance options which don't void warranty for 4.7 Dak's. Later...
Got a call from my dealer on Friday, said my truck was scheduled for assembly and he would have the vin number on Monday. Delivery in 3 weeks, 4 weeks early. I hope it gets put on hold till my 30 days with the farm bureau are up.
Arthur, if the date is not right, then the dealer will have to make it right. The key words are, "take delivery." Usually Farm Bureau starts memberships from the day they receive application. At least, they do in PA.
Received the vin number on the truck yesterday, build date next Tuesday 1/23. I guess thats better than a Monday morning or Friday afternoon build date. I have two questions where are these trucks built and I know there is a way to track the shipment is this done through dodge.com ? Looking forward to my first new veichal in 14 years and the first that I ordered.
spike50- Thanks for the info on the AC drain line and possible leaking seals. The truck is at the dealer as I type this for the 4th time. I'll call them in the morning and ask them to check the unit.
For whoever was looking for info on the CD changer: I have a Pioneer 12 disc changer and it didn't fit under the driver seat, so I mounted it in the center console. I didn't use the console for much anyway. I have a 2000 club cab.
I imagine that a couple of us have tracked out trucks down the rail and knew where it was before the dealer did. When my baby got in, my salesman had taken the day off for surgery and I gave him a ring on his cell. The trick is to get the tracking number from DC's help line, then go to norfolk-southern.com (or whatever carrier you have), track it, and don't forget to bookmark. You'll be checking it twice a day.
ghostwriter336 - Sounds like you have the bucket seats if you have the center console. Although I usually only listen to the news on my 6 mile commute, I've thought of adding a changer. I have the AM/FM cassette that appears to have changer controls built in. Crutchfield has units to plug into the factory radios that have the controls.
Did you do the same or did you start from scratch?
Just ordered a 2001 Club Cab..for 200$ under invoice..Without you guys and this site I dont think I would have gotten as good a deal as I did.//(at least I think its a good deal!!))
Options: 4.7 Trailor/Tow Bucket Seats Tire & Handling 4X4 Premium Stereo Sport Plus Group Leather Wheel Power heated mirrors HD Service group
Well, I've finally decided what I want: Dakota Sport Club Cab Part-time 4x4 4.7 auto, Sport Plus Pkg, premium sound, skid plates, no trailer hitch, bench front seat, limited-slip, 4-wheel ABS, power everything except overhead console stuff.
Things that I don't like about this design: Rear drum brakes... that's about all...
Some questions: The Back Seat: In your opinion, how is it? Do you carry people in it often? How short are they? Folding seats okay? Do you wish for a 3rd/4th door (with the risk of reduced cabin rigidity and squeaking a la S-10/Ranger)?
Brake Conversions: Anybody sawed off those horrible drums and put some discs on the back? Do the upgraded drums make a noticeable difference?
Payload: 1450 or 1800-lbs. rating? Does it make a difference in ride quality?
The Box: I want to carry skis that are about 6'8" long. I know they won't fit straight, but I bet they will diagonally. Anybody have the bed extender on their CC? Drop-in liners; whats the best?
I ski a lot and usually take 1 or 2 people with me. I'll put the skis and poles in the box, other stuff in the back of the cab and the possible 3rd person either up front on the bench or in the jump seat behind the passenger. Also planning plenty of highway driving, and a LONG road trip.
My father owns a 1998 Durango, and I know it's strengths and weaknesses, so I know I'll be happy with the "'kota".
And YES I've considered the Quad Cab. Maybe down the road when I have a family.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Gotta love these trucks!
Drum brakes are the way to go for the rear-end of trucks, just so you know. The contact area is such that they can put much more torque to the wheel under braking. The reason our trucks get rear-wheel ABS is because the braking is biased toward the rear. If you pull the ABS fuse you'll find that the rears lock up long before the front. However when you're carrying a load in the rear the wheels can take much more braking torque before the tires slide, hence rear drums. For vehicles with pretty uniform loading 4-wheel discs is the way to go but for trucks, drums are a very good thing. They just get a bad rep because the don't look nearly as clean or sophisticated and that they fade badly if you get the drums submerged in water.
I guess I'll have to rethink that. It's also why Toyota put drums on the rear of the Tundra isn't it? More durable in the muck?
I once drove the Durango through a big puddle, completely submerging the front rotors, and they faded like crazy too because they were cooled. What exactly happens if water gets trapped in the drums? is it a major maintenance issue?
triple_deke: The Payload Option includes larger drums at the back and stronger leaf springs that up the load rating in your box from 1450lbs to about 1800lbs. Also probaby make the rear a little more bouncy but more durable.
There's not maintenance issue with water in the drums except that it pools in the bottom. Once you get rotors hot, the fading is controlled but drums collect water. With the rims and tires most of us run it's really never an issue, plus your front discs are usually up to the task. If you ever submerge the drums with a heavy load and need to stop though, you'll be buying new rotors.
I'm an owner of a 94 Dakota 4x4 with 3.9L V6, and I'm familiar with the disappointment of its power and fuel efficiency. I want to move up to a V8, but I'm uncertain about the history of the 4.7L V8 -- other than that it came from the Jeep Cherokee product line.
Is anyone here familiar with the background of this engine in terms of performance, reliability, and possible defects? Any feedback from current 2001 Dakota owners on the 4.7L engine?
Well, the 4.7 debuted in 99 in the Jeep GC, but has been in the Dakotas since 2000. You won't find much on reliability anytime soon, but they have great fuel economy and power. I know that they'll take at least 5 more degrees of advance before they ping on 87 octane (they're very conservatively tuned right now) and should last as long as any other Dodge truck motor. Dodge will be replacing the 3.9 with a 3.7 based off the 4.7 and also has a 5.7 pushrod Hemi due up soon, so there will soon be family support within dealers and aftermarket like the 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 currently enjoy. My 2001 4.7 3.55 5-spd truck gets 23 highway and averages 17 or 18 around town. I really couldn't be happier.
(scoutx) The 4.7L V8 hemi is a Chrisler design (No Damler here)It has many hi-tech attributes that make it leading-edge. (Teflon-coated pistons, full girdle, Hi-tech lubrication and cooling systems, NO SPARKPLUG WIRES!!, Magnesium valvecovers...etc etc.)
I have read from a DC mechanic that this engine will go exactly 15063 miles on the original oil. It came into the shop clattering badly with NO OIL in the crankcase. (The owner NEVER EVEN CHECKED the oil!!)
Thanks for the awesome feedback and links on the 4.7L V8 engine -- now I'm really looking forward to a test-drive!
I didn't realize that the Chrysler/Jeep engineers started from scratch on this engine -- thus far, it looks like they may have outdone themselves.
Crash Test Rating. Next topic -- about 2 years ago, I remember the new Dodge Dakota ranking next to last in the crash test ratings. Apparently, this was due to the new stylish body design -- is there any truth to this? In a way, I feel like I'm going to miss the durable, boy corners on my 94 Dakota ST 4x4, because I suspect that with its alder frame, body style, and bumpers, it can probably withstand a higher impact than the new Dakota. Thoughts anyone?
Kevin, there is a place that you can add words to your particular dictionary that will be accepted. The only way around that, is to use spell check and then edit incorrect spellings and/or expressions on the "edit" feature. It certainly does not present a challenge to "Word!"
Yes...I know...it is kind of weird. I believe that is another feature that is being refined.
To put words on your personal spelling list (this means they won't be flagged as being misspelled), click on Preferences next to your username, enter the words in a single file in the text box, then click on Set Preferences.
What do you prefer? I can see that "bench" seats arent what they used to be, more like semi-buckets with a third seat in the middle, but I still think it's the way to go for a truck. I like the "straight-across" feeling that ALL trucks should have, plus its handy to carry another body from time to time. What do you people prefer and why? anybody wish theyd gone with bucket instead of bench or vice versa?
I just checked out bpeebles' Campo Largo link. I must admit to being a little surprized. Are South/Central American Daks built in Brazil, or are all, or just components? DC told me mine was built (finally) yesterday. If it's coming from Brazil by train I've got a LONG wait. The good news is, since I got the 4x4, as soon as it arrives (DC said 3 weeks-ordered it 12-4), we won't get any more snow. I've almost gotten killed 10x in my 90 2x mitsubishi! bikenut
Reasons why I like this arrangement: 1-The truck has the manual transmission and I find it inconvenient if someone is sitting in the middle spot. (use to have a regular cab Ranger with bench seat and 5 spd before) 2-It comes with the center console for at-hand storage of cd's, maps, etc. 3-It allows the passenger to adjust their seat for maximum comfort.
If I had purchased a club or regular cab truck, it would be equipped with the bench seat in order to accommodate an extra passenger.
Spike50-My stock radio doesn't have the CD changer controls. I purchased an FM modulated changer. I installed it myself. I ran the power wires to the fuse box instead of splicing into the wiring harness. One gets connected to a constant power and the other to an ignition controlled power supply. The install was pretty easy. It took about 30 minutes to run the wires to the radio and fuse box and re install all the trim panels. I had a little trouble getting the changer installed in the console, but other then that it was easy. I bought the changer from 6th Avenue Electronics (a chain in the NJ area)
I have the bench seat in my quad. It is a mixed blessing. My wife likes it because it because it gives her a place to hold her purse and for her Maltese to sit. It has a console in the back rest that is not too bad, but is on the small side. Technically, a person could sit on the middle seat, but in reality it is not practical. I removed the seat belts because I refuse to allow someone to sit there. I also have a headache with debris going between the buckets and the middle seat. It is tight enough that stuff will get trapped in there but cannot be easily cleaned out. The only problem that I find with the Dodge console is that it is not appropriate for everyone. If you decide to spend the money on a custom console, you will have to drill out several rivets and some of the hold down bolts are almost inaccessible.
I have a 2k Quad with the 40-20-40 seating arrangement. I preferred the buckets/console but my better half wanted the capability of seating 6 people in a pinch. I "hate" this pseudo bench seat. The seat back folded down gives a nice arm rest however in my case the width intrudes into my hip space (Thats why I'm iowaBIGGUY 6'3" @270lbs). I find myself off centered in the sculptured seating area. If you put the seat back up you gain hip room but then the seat back intrudes into your right arm/shoulder space. If you have your seat back slightly reclined you can't recline the center seat back to match as it is fixed at approximately 90 degrees. I have Agate interior and if there is someone in the mid west that wants to trade their buckets/console for this seating arrangement I'd pay you the $200 difference and swap the seats for you. That is how much I don't like this seating arrangement.
The seats are the same whether you have the console or buckets, but I too kinda wish I had the full console. I've found that my CD Wallet (2-hi, 1-wide when folded) elevates the flip-down console such that the shifter's in just the right spot and you get all your hip-room back! However, if anyone has a 2001 bucket setup and wants to swap consoles, I'd gladly consider it too.
I guess I didn't realize the buckets were the same. That makes the console a $200 upgrade. Maybe we "collectively as a group" who are unhappy with the center seating arrangement should consider a custom center console. I deem to recall someone mentioning a custom console in a previous message. Is anyone aware of one that is available? I suppose my wood working skills are up to constructing one if I were to cover it with vinyl or some type of covering. I'm open to suggestions. Rick
Not sure if the seats are the same in the 2K QC. My and I tried out both and found the bucket to be definitely more comfortable. I am kind of like the iowabiguy, 6'3'' 250 lbs and I find my anatomy fits the seats with no problems. Carl
That the driver's bench and bucket seats were the same. Is this true? are they identical with the console the only difference? All the 'Kotas I see on the dealer lots have "buckets".
Can't see how the bench with the wide armrest down would have the same room as the bucket with the narrow console. The wider bench armrest / "seat for the sixth person" would have to impact the location of all front seat belts making available seat width smaller. To me, the front bench seat is good if you're on a date. BTW, I have the buckets (and married 26 yrs).
Why not go look at two trucks side-by side at the dealer - one with buckets, one with the bench, and check it out. You're bound to get two of them next two each other. I did, and they were exactly the same.
Comments
Bookitty
I also recommend reading the wealth of information at http://www.carbuyingtips.com
Good luck! Skyler
Well, now it's time to pit one against the other.
One last question. Is there a difference between the $1000 rebate, and the $1000 cash allowance Dodge is offering, or is it two words for the same thing? If they are two different programs, I am assuming they can be combined together.
Let me know soon, the rebate expires Jan 8th.
Yes, "rebate", "cash allowance", and "incentive" all mean the same thing -- there is only one of them available. This is money that Dodge headquarters gives you to help pay for the price you negotiated with your local dealer -- it does not come out of the local dealers pocket (although they may try to act like it does). You should be able to negotiate a before-rebate price which is close to dealer invoice, so the actual number of dollars coming out of your pocket ends up being about $1000 LESS than dealer invoice.
You should also be aware that if you order a truck instead of buying off the lot, the only rebates which apply are those which are in effect on the day that you RECEIVE the truck, not when you ORDER the truck. If you order a Dakota now, you'll just have to cross your fingers and hope that Dodge puts a new rebate program in place after Jan 8th. If a dealer tries to make any promises about the rebates which will be in effect when you receive the truck, make them put in writing.
Good luck!
congratulations on trying the "fax" method of negotiation. After you get the initial responses, you can usually two or more dealers to bid each other down by calling each of them back and saying something like "Thank you for responding to my fax. I got an offer from dealer XX which was $YY lower than your offer, so I'm going to go with them unless you can make a better offer." Some dealers will just say OK and let you go, but some that really want your business will respond with a lower offer. Then you just go back and forth on the phone between each dealer until you have given each of them a chance to beat your lowest offer.
Finally, (sorry this is so long) the $1400 spread in your initial responses is pretty high. Make sure that all of the dealers are quoting you either before-rebate or after-rebate prices to be sure that your comparing apples to apples.
For 2001 models the $1000 cash allowance good through 1/22/01.
If you will be ordering, be aware that it may not arrive in time to take advantage of the rebate.
My truck took 5 weeks from time of order to delivery.
The dealer informed me that factory orders are placed on Wednesdays and Fridays.
I ordered on a Friday so it was placed immediately with the factory.
Happy negotiating, 2nddak
Thanks for all your input. Redroses
Bookitty
PS: Many search engines offer local sites for comparison financing for automobiles and/or light trucks.
Mucho gracias! (PS: Nuts to I'net, fax, etc. sales! My local dealer will order for $175 over true invoice + I get $1K rebate -- no sweat!)
Bookitty
"4 wheel drive," right? Even with posi-trac rear end, unless it's a Hummer or old Dodge PowerWagon,
the best they have is 3 wheel drive,and, w/o a locking rear differential, it's only 2 wheel drive, 1 front & 1 rear! It's all about marketing to fools... Adios.
Two last questions: How is your unloaded/empty box ride w/ HD springs -- sure it's stiffer, but still reasonably comfortable? Finally, one guy told me he had an earlier model 5.2 Dak w/3.92 diff. that he got rid of because the motor AND driveline howled and vibrated so much above 65-70mph it "very annoying and felt like it was on verge of coming apart." How 'bout yours?
Now I'll be looking for a good BB discussing after-mkt performance options which don't void warranty for 4.7 Dak's. Later...
At least, they do in PA.
Bookitty
For whoever was looking for info on the CD changer: I have a Pioneer 12 disc changer and it didn't fit under the driver seat, so I mounted it in the center console. I didn't use the console for much anyway. I have a 2000 club cab.
http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html
When I used these instructions I was able to "visit" my truck on the back lot of my dealer before my own salesman even knew it was there!
Did you do the same or did you start from scratch?
I dont think I would have gotten as good a deal as I did.//(at least I think its a good
deal!!))
Options:
4.7
Trailor/Tow
Bucket Seats
Tire & Handling
4X4
Premium Stereo
Sport Plus Group
Leather Wheel
Power heated mirrors
HD Service group
Dakota Sport Club Cab Part-time 4x4 4.7 auto, Sport Plus Pkg, premium sound, skid plates, no trailer hitch, bench front seat, limited-slip, 4-wheel ABS, power everything except overhead console stuff.
Things that I don't like about this design: Rear drum brakes... that's about all...
Some questions:
The Back Seat: In your opinion, how is it? Do you carry people in it often? How short are they? Folding seats okay? Do you wish for a 3rd/4th door (with the risk of reduced cabin rigidity and squeaking a la S-10/Ranger)?
Brake Conversions: Anybody sawed off those horrible drums and put some discs on the back? Do the upgraded drums make a noticeable difference?
Payload: 1450 or 1800-lbs. rating? Does it make a difference in ride quality?
The Box: I want to carry skis that are about 6'8" long. I know they won't fit straight, but I bet they will diagonally. Anybody have the bed extender on their CC? Drop-in liners; whats the best?
I ski a lot and usually take 1 or 2 people with me. I'll put the skis and poles in the box, other stuff in the back of the cab and the possible 3rd person either up front on the bench or in the jump seat behind the passenger. Also planning plenty of highway driving, and a LONG road trip.
My father owns a 1998 Durango, and I know it's strengths and weaknesses, so I know I'll be happy with the "'kota".
And YES I've considered the Quad Cab. Maybe down the road when I have a family.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Gotta love these trucks!
TD
I once drove the Durango through a big puddle, completely submerging the front rotors, and they faded like crazy too because they were cooled. What exactly happens if water gets trapped in the drums? is it a major maintenance issue?
triple_deke: The Payload Option includes larger drums at the back and stronger leaf springs that up the load rating in your box from 1450lbs to about 1800lbs. Also probaby make the rear a little more bouncy but more durable.
I'm an owner of a 94 Dakota 4x4 with 3.9L V6, and I'm familiar with the disappointment of its power and fuel efficiency. I want to move up to a V8, but I'm uncertain about the history of the 4.7L V8 -- other than that it came from the Jeep Cherokee product line.
Is anyone here familiar with the background of this engine in terms of performance, reliability, and possible defects? Any feedback from current 2001 Dakota owners on the 4.7L engine?
- Scout
I have read from a DC mechanic that this engine will go exactly 15063 miles on the original oil. It came into the shop clattering badly with NO OIL in the crankcase. (The owner NEVER EVEN CHECKED the oil!!)
Here are some links about this engine.
Wards Best 10 engines
Mack avenue Engine Plant
Campo LArgo Dakota Plant
Thanks for the awesome feedback and links on the 4.7L V8 engine -- now I'm really looking forward to a test-drive!
I didn't realize that the Chrysler/Jeep engineers started from scratch on this engine -- thus far, it looks like they may have outdone themselves.
Crash Test Rating. Next topic -- about 2 years ago, I remember the new Dodge Dakota ranking next to last in the crash test ratings. Apparently, this was due to the new stylish body design -- is there any truth to this? In a way, I feel like I'm going to miss the durable, boy corners on my 94 Dakota ST 4x4, because I suspect that with its alder frame, body style, and bumpers, it can probably withstand a higher impact than the new Dakota. Thoughts anyone?
- scout
boy = boxy
alder = older
scout = scoutx
Weird!
Bookitty
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KarenS
Owner's Club host
Reasons why I like this arrangement:
1-The truck has the manual transmission and I find it inconvenient if someone is sitting in the middle spot. (use to have a regular cab Ranger with bench seat and 5 spd before)
2-It comes with the center console for at-hand storage of cd's, maps, etc.
3-It allows the passenger to adjust their seat for maximum comfort.
If I had purchased a club or regular cab truck, it would be equipped with the bench seat in order to accommodate an extra passenger.
Carl