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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab



  • I am going to buy a 2001 Dakota Club Cab SLT 4x2 within a month. I was needing advice on a couple things. I am getting the 4.7L engine with a manual tran. I was wondering if the limited slip differential was necesarry and what axle ratio I should get. Thank you.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Brett, if you live in an area that gets snow, ice or heavy inclement weather, I would opt for the limited slip differential. As far as axle ratios are concerned, unless you tow heavily or extensively, the 3.55 will offer lower RPM and better mileage. You haven't given us enough information to provide for an intelligent answer.

  • I'm going to be in the market for a 98 Dakota Club Cab, but I've heard they have a history of transmission troubles and ball joint problems. I've also heard they use a car transmission in some models.

    Any truth to these rumors?
  • I bought a new '98 4-cyl Dakota club cab. Short story is don't buy the 4 cylinder. It's underpowered in everyday driving. It does 70++ mph ok on the highway until you hit a hill. I used to console myself by saying at least I get decent gas mileage but the mileage stinks. I was on a budget and the 6-cyl was too much $ at the time.

    I don't do any towing.

    The good news is: I regularly use it to haul 1000 lbs of dirt and gravel. Recently, I accidentally overloaded with about 2500 pounds of concrete brick once and the truck didn't like it but got home and has had no after affects.

    More bad news: Within a year of owning it, the gas gauge went bad. Truck died with 1/4 of tank showing (at night, bad neighborhood). Took the dealer 5 days to figure out the problem and fix it.

    Got recall notice in the mail for bad brakes. At about the same time my catalytic converter went bad (lots of noise, sounds like a diesel). Recall notice said it would take 1/2 day to fix. Called dealer to make appointment, they said it would take all day because they were busy and to fix the catalytic converter. The dealer had it for three days. They didn't order the recall parts, they didn't order the new catalytic converter, and they managed to lose my keys. My catalytic converter is still busted, it is supposedly back-ordered. They were supposed to call me when it gets in. Its been a month, I would call them to complain, but I hate dealing with the buffoons. 5 star service?

    I was thinking about buying another Chrysler Corp. vehicle for my wife because, overall, I like the truck. But the service is so lousy I don't think so.
  • Hey folks,
    I'm planning on buying a Dakota 4X4 CC with 4.7 V-8 (at the recommendation of this group) with manual tranny. I live in RI, where we sometimes get snow, and I have a public service job where I have to get to work, and it is 25 miles each way, thus the 4X4. My questions are about whether or not I should order 3.55 axle and/or limited slip differential. I assume the 3.55 axle is lower gearing, and I'm not sure I'll need that with 4 wheel drive. I will rarely tow more than a motorcyle or two, or help with the occasional request to help someone move this or that. I will do a fair amount of city driving, and wonder if I should get HD service group. Any advice will be appreciated.
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Posts: 116
    The LSD is always a good idea. If you're willing to pay the cost of 4wd, you'd certainly get your money's worth with the limited-slip. The worst case for an open 4x4 is having one spinning front and rear wheel, with no real traction on either end - definitely opt for the LSD. The 3.92 rear end will give you better acceleration and towing capacity, but with a 50-mile round-trip and normal day-to-day driving, I'd suggest the 3.55 with its better fuel economy, especially on the highway.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Doug, there are only two choices for differential ratios for your truck. The 3.55 (fits most applications) and the 3.92, which is designed for more constant towing with heavy loads, or in mountainous areas. The 3.55 should do fine, but I strongly recommend the limited slip differential option. This increases tractive effort in conditions where one wheel may be on a slippery surface and would spin. LSD helps to regain traction and move the vehicle. I once took a long drive on Route 6, all the way from East Providence, RI to Seekonk, MA. I certainly was happy that I had a limited slip differential (just kidding of course). ohc baby has given you good and prudent advice. Good luck, and please feel free to post any questions and/or requests for clarification. That's the way we learn. Are you aware of the Farm Bureau $500.00 discount for Dodge trucks? If not, try this link:

  • I've really learned a lot reading the e-mails in this site. I ordered my Dakota today, club cab, black (the only color for a P/U!)4.7,manual, 4X4 with AGU group AND Quasi Posi. Thanks for Farm Bureau tip. I'll see what I can do, but I put deposit on truck tonight, so have likely missed the discount. Anyway, my wife bought a vehicle from same dealer last week, and my price was less than this site says the package should cost, so I'm happy. Now I have to wait 6 weeks for my new truck!. The 10 year old Mighty Max with 250,000 plus on the clock is, to put it mildly, a little long in the tooth. But I got it new in 1990 for 6K, so it owes me nothing. I'll brag about how cool my truck is when it gets in!
    Cordially, Bikenut
  • 2nddak2nddak Posts: 44
    Bikenut, get on the stick with the farm bureau discount, you haven't missed the boat yet. You only have to be a member for 30 days to get the discount. If your truck is coming in 6 weeks you've got the time. Some of the dealers don't have a clue on it so let them know that you are using it so they can get the proper paper work in order. Farm Bureau folks can fill you in on aquiring the proper certificate number from Dodge. You need that for the deal. It only cost about $60 to join. Good luck. Also, don't let the dealer snow you and tell you it is only one rebate or the other. Dodge accepts both! They tried it with me and I told them the deal is off. Suddenly they came back and said we made a mistake.

  • I got on the FB site, (thanks Bookity) and found a link for the Dodge truck rebate/discount that is but that site seems not to be working. Also I keep getting booted off of the FB site. Just starting a new job, so don't have much time. Any help finding specific info for this program will be great. I'll call dealer tomorrow, though I don't expect much from them. Thanks, DPS
  • I just posted a bunch of Farm Bureau info over in the "Dodge Dakota Owners - FAQs" forum. Here's a link to it: >

    Note: Unless there is some kind of delay due to a "Christmas break" shutdown the factory, 6 weeks for a Dakota order is a very high (safe) estimate by your dealer. Most of the recent Dakota purchases reported in these forums have been 3 - 4 weeks from order to delivery. My own Quad Cab order in October took 25 days.

    Bottom line: Get signed up at your state Farm Bureau as soon as possible, even if you are still "shopping".

  • I called dealer today, and much to my surprise he stated that he has state farm bureau applications right in his desk. I went and got one and will send it in tomorrow. I was a little peeved that they didn't tell me about this before, but he said that as long as my application is in 30 days before I take delivery, I'm OK. Seems like I should be all set, but will advise if I have a problem. Thanks for info, I probably saved myself about a grand from this site!! DPS
  • 2nddak2nddak Posts: 44

    You can find them in your phone book and call. They should be able to give you the States main office and then you can call them and sign up by credit card so you won't have a mail delay.

    Also, if your truck comes in a bit before the 30 days, if you can take it, wait it out before you accept delivery. I was lucky, mine came in at 28 days, so I just took delivery 2 days later.

    Good luck, 2nddak
  • I'm new here so please forgive me if this is something that has been asked a hundred times. I'm ready to order a new Dakota Club Cab and my local dealer knows nothing about the Farm Bureau allowance. Is this available in New Jersey ? If so is there somewhere else I can get the forms ? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Arthur, click on this link Then, click on your state and the local (state) bureau comes up. and usually they are listed by county. The fee is probably $75.00 (that is what it is for PA). The member must be a member for 30 days prior to taking delivery. There will be links to the NJ Farm Bureau. The $500.00 discount is usually found under "benefits." Good luck, and if you have any questions, feel free to Email me. My address is in my profile.

  • I purchased a 2000 Dodge Dakota Club Cab in July and it had to go back to the dealer due to water leaking into the cab. I'm not sure how it's getting in, but I suspect through the door seals. I pulled up the carpet on the floor and the entire floor was flooded. The padding under the carpet was soaked and the carpet itself damp. The dealer resealed the left door weatherstrip and door moisture barrier. Last night I was cleaning the truck and decided to pull up the carpet to check, and the floor was wet. Though not has bad as before. I'm making another appointment to have the truck "fixed". I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what the problem might be or if they experienced it themselves. The vehicle was never involved in an accident and I bought it new. If this keeps up I'll be looking into the state's lemon laws. (NJ) Other than that I love the truck. Thanks for any help.
  • harleyart,
    My experience with the Farm Bureau discount is posted in the Dakota FAQ forum.
    Here's a link to it: >
    This reply to my post may also be useful to you: >
  • I would like anyone's help regarding my problem. Here's my problem: I own a 1999 Dodge Dakota CC Sport 4x4 3.9 liter 6, and I have had problems with my engine, steering column, and rear brakes. My engine sounds like a diesel(they say pings), my steering column pops when I turn it hard left or right, and they recalled my truck to fix the rear ABS. They updated the computer with a flash for the engine and replaced the steering column after the fourth time. There was only 5K miles on it when I first brought it in for the problems, and it has been in almost every other month. They want me to bring it in so that they can fix it again, but I am getting sick and tired of it! Any suggestions, or help, would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.


    James A. Balsdon II
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    James, perhaps it is time to get people other than the dealership involved in this problem. I believe that the "lemon laws" usually require the owner to exhaust all of the various options prior to taking the case to arbitration. I would start with the Daimler Chrysler area representative as the first step to see what he or she has to say. The dealership can tell you how to contact the area representative and it is just as well that they know that you are willing ready and able to pursue this to satisfaction. Gather up whatever paperwork you have on the problem(s) and from now on, keep everything in writing. I didn't say that this would be easy, but it is the only way that I know to press for results. Maybe someone else on the forum can guide you further. Good luck.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (puma14) Listen to bookitty, You did not say how many miles are on it NOW but I assume it is still under warantee.

    Pinging (More precisley...Pre-ignition) has been reported when the intake plenum gasket is leaking. This causes the engine to run LEAN which causes pinging.Pre-ignition is also caused by a carbon build-up in the combustion-chambers. The carbon "glows" red-hot and ignights the FA mixture before the plug fires. (again... Pre-ignition)

    There have been reports of treating the engine with some kind of "Dodge Engine Decarbonizer" which is a liquid that is put into the intake and spark-plug holes and allowed to "soak".

    It is NEVER a good idea to turn your steering mechanism hard to the 'stops' This should solve this "problem" (Just do not do it)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (puma14) Oh... and many people have installed a 180 thermostat (down from the factory 195) to combat the pinging.

    Lets not forget that an engine is MOST EFFICENT when it is running on the verge of pinging. Yours is just running TOO LEAN or TOO HOT. (Assuming the timing is correct.) ccasional pinging clumbing a hill on a hot day is normal
  • Can a 12 disc changer be installed UNDER the driver or passenger seat in a Club Cab?
    I want to order the radio with the cd changer controls but dont want to take up any space
    in the extended cab area.
  • mpoolmpool Posts: 1
    my 2001 Dakota with 4.7 engine shuts down at 100 mph....How can I fix it ????? don't tell me to call the dealer!!!!!
  • Before everyone jumps on you for driving too fast let me answer your question. The computer is programmed to limit the top speed based on the tires the factory installs. If yours cuts out at 100mph I'd assume you have the 4x4 or a 4x2 without the tire/handling package. The only way you can exceed the limit is have the engine controller re programmed( the only one I'm aware of with this capability is the dealer) or replace the engine controller with the Mopar performance controller. This removes the 100mph limit and increases horsepower/torque at a cost. You have to buy it for between $250 and $300 (estimate) last I heard and you MUST use 93 octane gas. Rick
  • tuvtesttuvtest Posts: 237
    As a former user of a Mopar Performance ECU, I would caution you that not only is 93 octane manditory, you need to make sure that the gas in your area is not the newer reformulated/oxygenated junk. In the Chicago area we have this stuff and unless I popped for the Union 76 100 oct. unleaded, I would have pinging. Now,this was in a 95 Ram 360cid, but you might want to find out about the gas and check with the MP techline if you want to go that route.
  • friend of mine has a new Dakota, he said this morning it was about 10 degrees, said
    truck wouldn't start, he has full power but truck would not turn over at all, after a short
    time he went out to try again, same thing, just for fun tried one more time, turned over and
    started like nothing was wrong. Has anyone seen this?
  • cs18cs18 Posts: 10
    i could not wish this truck off on anyone,the engine has a ticking noise{not pre-ignition),the dash is rattling,it sucks gas like everything...i want my money only has a thousand miles on it,i can already tell this is going to be a piece of junk...DO NOT buy one of these trucks! wait until you find another quad cab from another corp,I hope you are reading this
  • cs18cs18 Posts: 10
    i bought this at carl gregory in johnson city tenn...they are trying to tell me that the lifter will stop ticking after the truck gets broke in,(it is actually getting worse)
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    ghostwriter336 - I thought my doors / windshield, etc. was allowing water to leak in a fill up the inch or so between the floor boards on the drives side. What really happened was that an earlier minor accident had opened up one of the seals on the HVAC unit. This opening allowed the water being condensed by the AC to bypass the drain line to the outside of the car. Instead it went under the carpet.

    Check your drain line. The AC runs all of the time on the 2000's and this could result in plenty of water.
  • I am considering installing a remote starter on my 99 dakota club cab and was wondering if by doing this I would in any way chance voiding my factory warranty since I only have 27,000 miles on my truck. Also if anyone has any recommendations of a good, reliable remote starter I would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.