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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab



  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Harold, I missed out on that one. My wife was concerned with the long walk to the beach while dragging along her beach chair, magazines, towel and tanning lotion. But, that's the last time that I will allow her to spoil and investment opportunity.

  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    FYI Grand lake in Oklahoma has approximately 1800 miles of shoreline, reaches depths in excess of 150 ft and has several hundred yachts over 30 foot that are ocean crossing capable. It is also only the third largest lake in OK. Three lakes in OK are continuously connected to the Gulf of Mexico and patrolled by the Coast Guard. And if salt water is your bent, we do have salt water lakes. Actually, a shoreline home on Grand is a hot ticket. Many small homes start over $250,000. So tuvtest, your investment was a good one.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Posts: 237
    to quote Homer Simpson...DOE!!!
  • After looking and researching for years :) I just placed my order for a 2001 Dakota Club Cab SLT with the following. V6 Engine, 5 Spd Manual, Limited Slip, 2000lb payload, HD Service Package, AM/FM with CD Player, Engine Block Heater, 60/40/60 bench seat. The dealer was stumped by my options list. I'm in Louisiana but I plan on my truck living (with me too) in Northern Vermont. Just a note the 1st price the salesman came back with was MORE than the MSRP on the Dodge WEB site. I laughed and then told them what I would pay before rebates. The Dealer accepted. I now get the truck, add on fees, and tax for LESS then the dealer first offered for the truck alone. I saved $3000
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (dsvanned) Good choice... I have been driving my 2000 Dakota in Vermont since October 1999. Your forsight to get the block heater is also commendable. (Do not forget to buy a heavy-duty timer (around $20) to turn on your block heater in the wee-hours of the morning.... leaving it "powered up" overnight will cost you $$ in electric bills and shorten the heater's life.) Personal experience with block heaters in Vermont on several vehicles over the years.

    I too, have the 5SP manual tranny and it is flawless. Never a missed shift or slow response in -10F temps.

    I do have one question about your choice of engine. Why the V6? This 1960's based engine gets LESS MPG than the 4.7L V8 Hemi and has been reported as being underpowered for the weight of the truck.

    If you expect to be "living" with this truck for a long time... you should consider the 4.7L V8 Hemi.

    BTW... Trying to SELL a 2WD truck in Vermont is like selling screen doors to a submarine factory.
  • greg116greg116 Posts: 116
    steve: it's spelled "D'OH!" actually. or is it "DO'H"? anyways...

    I notice at the dealership some Daks have bigger rear drums than others. Which option group upgrades them like that? Or is that just standard on 4x4s?
  • greg116greg116 Posts: 116
    The V6 comes with a lower MSRP too. Keep that in mind. It's also a long-proven (as the 318) design.

    Also, "underpowered" is a relative term. My mother's 1990 Caravan 3.0L is gutless in my book, but just fine for her. BTW my favorite IS the 4.7.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (greg116) When I bought my Dakota the actual cost of the 287ci V8 Hemi was $502. (+4% I offered to the dealer as his profit margin)

    With some miles on your rig, the fuel savings alone make the 4.7L less expensive to own than the V6.

    The 318ci may be a "proven" design as you say. It has been "proven" to be inneffecient and is "proven" to have some other problems too.

    The 287ci passed YEARS of severe torture-testing before it was first offered in the 1999 JeepGrandCherokee. There have been an extremly small number of "problems" reported since it has been in produciton. It is going to be offered as an option in the new-design RAM for 2002.

    BTW...Since you referred to the 318ci... I chose to refer to the 4.7L as the 287ci for comparison.

    One should consider the 4.7L V8 Hemi "proven" at this point.

    THe AUTOMATIC xmission that is available with the 4.7L is problematic... and the suggested maintenance schedule for this transmission will make it quite expensive to maintian. (If one chooses to NOT follow the maintence schedule... it would likely self-distruct)
  • Can anyone suggest a good bedmat and tailgate mat for 2001 Dak??

  • 2k,CC, 4.7L,355lsd, 4spd auto, stock tires (big) towing package, tonneau cover, mobil 1 syn oil, K&N air filter. Gas mileage avg 15 mpg combined 13-14 city. Drive fast usually, Having front brake probs, rotors warping easy, had rotors turned at 8k and replaced at 12 k. pads were ok, thinking of changing to softer pads?? I drive hard, but not THAT hard, anybody else having probs keeping rotors on front end? No other probs with truck..I love it..gas guzzler that it is! please email.
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    Personally, I have always spelled it DOAH, but the purest would probably spell it D'OH. You have to remember that Homer moved to the east coast eight years ago to be with his buddy and has probably developed a Boston twang.
  • Before I begin I learned a lot from all the postings I read. Some I agreed with but others were not for me. Everything is a trade off so here is some of my reasoning.

    For the next few years at least my Dakota will be my transportation here in Louisiana. I cannot see carrying the weight and warring the mechanicals of 4WD. Even in the northern winter (I'm from upstate NY) their are many days when you just need a bit more traction. So thats why I went for the Anti spin axle. For the 1/2 year that is not the mud or snow season I am very comfortable. During the mud and snow season anti spin can be a wonderful assistance though not as good as 4WD.

    I choose the V6 though I thought about the 4.7 V8. For most of the time I will not be carrying heavy loads so don't need the power of the V8. I thought the 4.7 with all its technology was a bit too new for my comfort. And the I4 is certainly underpowered. So for those reasons I choose the V6.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Dave, All sound decesions... A long as you have consider the options it they are the right decisions for you

    Is your present Eagle an AMC Eagle or the spin-off Eagle brand vehicle? My second 4x4 was an AMC Eagle. The galvanized body is the ONLY car I have owned that never rusted through 10 Vermont winters.... Too bad the frame was crumbling at that point. The same inline 6 engine is STILL used in Jeep vehicles... NOW THAT IS A PROVEN ENGINE!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (2kdaklover) If there is an area on the Dakota that has marginal materials used it would be the front rotors. I am not saying that they are unsave in any way... Just that the OEM metal tends to RUST ver fast and is susceptable to warpage when used heavally. Turing the rotors is a temporary band-aid that makes the rotors even more suseptable to warping.

    I will be DEFINATLY replacing my front rotors with high-quality units when they become unusable.
    Here is a suggestion.
  • greg116greg116 Posts: 116
    All good points, but the MSRP IS still cheaper. And I have yet to see proven evidence that the V6 gets worse mileage than the V8. And yes, I understand the concept of gearing, how the V6 must rev higher at a given speed etc etc... The EPA seems to like the V6 for gas on all the stickers I've seen on lot vehicles. Of course their testing is outdated too. Besides, if gas mileage was better, why WOULD anyone buy the V6? Despite that, V6s on 1997-2001 Dakotas have sold more than V8s.

    Does ANYONE buy a Dakota with a 4 cyl anymore? I havent seen anyone on these message boards that has one. I would imagine they sell very few of them. Almost every Dak i've seen on the road has the V6 or V8 badge. I think the only one was the delivery truck for Crowfoot Dodge in Calgary AB, a base-model regular-cab that probably didnt even have A/C (understandably).

    If someone does have one, please speak up! How is it?
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    I don't know that they sell more V6s than V8s, but if so, than it is probably because of fleet sales. We have one or two dozen Dakotas in my organization and they are probably all V6s. When going over the options, the motor pool manager said that if I was going to do much towing, he would get me a full size Ram with V8. The Dakota is ideal for work trucks that do not have a heavy load requirement. I have no problems with the V6 as a utilitarian vehile, but for my personal ride, I like a little oomph.
  • Picked up my new Club Cab on Saturday, 4.7, auto, tow package, tire & handling and more but I have my first complaint. Tried to order fender flares but they not avaible in silver as an accessary. Can be ordered as replacement parts but will cost $200.00 more. Can be ordered in every color but silver. Has anyone else had this problem and if so has the paint matched after painting? Thanks for all the information I have received here.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    ( greg116) The last time I looked, the stickers on the windows (EPA stickers) did show the V6 as getting less MPG than the 4.7L V8 Hemi. (option packages being identical)

    Additinoally, the 1960's based V6 has horrendous emmissions... again as noted on the EPA stickers in the windows.

    Lets look at some numbers;

    assumptions; (your numbers may vary)
    V6 = 16MPG
    4.7L V8 Hemi = 18 MPG
    20,000 miles driven per year
    cost of fuel = $1.45 / Gallon

    20,000 / 18 = 1111 <== annual gallons to run the 4.7L V8 Hemi
    20,000 / 16 = 1250 <== annual gallons to run the V6

    1111 * $1.45 = $1610.95 <== annual fuel cost to run the 4.7L V8 Hemi
    1250 * $1.45 = $1812.50 <== annual fuel cost to run the V6

    $1812.50 - $1610.95 = <B>$201.55
    Gee.... since my 4.7L V8 Hemi cost me $502 + 4% (522.08), after about 3 years I will be saving money. (based on if I had that 1960's based V6)

    Now you tell me why ANYONE would want that ol' V6 in their personal vehicle?
  • The actual EPA estimates for the Dakota Clubcab shows better city and highway mileage for the V-6 in every configuration, that is: 4WD, 2WD, 5-sp. or Auto.
  • I had a 97 Dakota with the 3.9 and auto and currently have a 00 Dakota with the 4.7 and auto. I can tell you without any doubt that the 4.7 DOES get better mileage than the 3.9 by about 2 MPG in my case. I got the 97 new with the V6 to "save gas", right. The V6 was adequate at best, but each to their own.

    After having owned both, there is not a single doubt in my mind that the 4.7 is the only choice for the informed buyer.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (wetwillie) Were you looking at the ACTUAL STICKERS ON THE WINDOWS for each vehicle? I am not refering to the 'generic' EPA numbers as seen on TV....etc
  • greg116greg116 Posts: 116
    I think i've started a war... let's say economy varies from different sources, papers, transmissions and drivers and leave it at that. That said I can't wait for the new 353-hp 5.7 R/T Dakota in a few years. Hopefully with a stick shift?

    But back a ways, which option group gets you the bigger rear drums? The payload upgrade, 4x4, what? Also, does the box on the Club Cab have the same dimensions as the regular cab?
  • The key word here is ESTMATES. Like the boilerplate statement says "These estimates are for comparison only, your mileage may vary" The numbers I refer too are manufacturer figures the EPA has either tested or accepted the testing procedures supplied by the manufacturer. The mileage information is available at several sites, such as, Kelley Blue Book.The point is, given the limited parameters used to arrive at these numbers, the V-6, in every combination got better mileage than the 4.7. The manual tranny also got better mileage than the auto in every situation (of course, all these comparisons are with similarly equipped vehilcles). No matter the mileage penalty (1 - 2 mpg max.) I would choose the 4.7, the smile factor of the 4.7 trumps any (if any) mileage advantage the V-6 might have.
  • I agree with greg116, my next vehical WILL be the Dakota with the 5.7 Hemi, and I don't care what the mileage will be. :)
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Posts: 116
    I don't know, if it's styled after the Maxxcab, I'll stick with what I have. If they put a 5.7 into the current bodystyle trucks, even for one year, I'm trading immediatedly and getting it while I can. I love the current truck and won't risk getting screwed into a MaxxCab.
  • The payload upgrade will give you the bigger rear drums and I believe
    stronger leaf springs

  • I have a 2000 Dakota Club Cab 4X4 with the 4.7 in it. It has 8000 miles, and I am getting an average of 10 to 12 mpg! I am driving it like an old lady, and not speeding on the highway. I have no idea what is going on? Any ideas.......
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    I've got a 2001 CC, 2wd, 4.7 w/auto. Odometer is 2850. The overhead computer says I'm getting 18.9. I only measured once and found it to be 16.3. I don't drive much with my eye on the gas gage but your mileage seems to be a bit low. The 4wd will contribute some to that. Other owners here will have more accurate info regarding drive train drag. Some others have complained of poor gas mileage.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    I have a stock '00 4WD QC, 4.7L, 31x10.5-15 (at 40 psi) tires, 3.55 LSD rear with the 5sp trans and have a tonneau covering the back. Purchased in May '00 and 62% of the time I get 15 to 16 mpg, with the average to date at 15.85 mpg. This is based on 58 fill-ups, 95% of the time on regular gas. Most driving is local, seldom tow and no off-roading. At the extremes are an 18.7 and a 12.7 (bad boy) mpg. I have noticed that driving at 65+ mph, even though comfortable, reduces the mpg. Another statistic is gas is costing me about $0.10 / mile at an average of $1.53 / gal in south central PA.
  • I now have 1200 miles on my 4X4 CC 4.7 Std trans. lsd Black Dak, sport plus and am very happy. Part of my joy stems from the fact that the owner of the dealership cut me a check for $200 after price of truck went up from when I ordered it on 12-4 to when it came in on 2-3. I refused to pay increase, natch'. The sales guys hate me, so I'm happy. The only prob is some small paint defects that svc mgr promised to fix. Went four wheeling, and "accidentally" jumped it- probably went 20 before hitting terry firma- didn't even bottom at 70MPH! My 9 year old step son kept saying that was really cool, but I plan no repeats. My only regret is not getting the tilt wheel, as it is an inch too high, but I didn't want cruise control. It does top out at 100MPH:(
    Any one know a way to lower the steering wheel an inch? Also, got Line-X put in and the guy did a great job. Later, Bikenut ( gotta do O/T to pay for this beast!)
This discussion has been closed.