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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab



  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    It could also be that the northeast uses that crummy oxygenated gas.
    My last car would drop by 4 mpg using it.
    I also found that trying different brands of gas has an impact on mileage as well.
    A heavy foot and prolonged engine warm up times will have a negative effect on mileage too.

    My truck with 4.7L V8, standard tranny, 3.55 axles gets typically 16 mpg.
    Low was 14 mpg, high was 16.5 mpg. Mostly local driving.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Ben, I don't want to argue with you or attempt to change your opinion. I also cannot buy into the fact that all of the trucks made by Dodge, miss so severely, the EPA estimates (accent on estimates). My particular truck (2000 Dakota Quad with 4X4, 4.7 V8, 5 speed 3.55 differential(s) delivers as much or more than the posted estimates and may be attributed to the following. Garage kept where the temperature never falls below 38 degrees, driving for the most part in cruise control on relatively flat highway @ 60 MPH. The use of an A.R.E. tonneau cover reduces somewhat the wind resistance. Selection of a drive train combination with sufficient power to keep lugging at a minimum. Good driving habits as related to acceleration and braking (anticipating traffic conditions to keep lower gears at a minimum). Perhaps as bobs5 mentioned, it is the formulation and/or quality of the fuel, although the majority of my fuel is purchased in South NJ and some in Eastern PA. I continue to think that if your MPG is correctly calculated, that there is a problem with your particular vehicle. If you really think that Dodge is trying to rip off consumers, then I feel that you should pursue that issue with a consumer agency. I feel, as do others on this forum, that the Dakota is a good truck, and I am very satisfied by mine. I also can see your frustration with your truck's performance and feel that you should seek satisfaction. The tenure of my previous posts were not to anger and upset you Ben, but to imply the importance of researching "prior" to any major purchase decision to assess whether the product will suit your particular needs. Good luck, and I hope that you find a viable solution to your problem.

  • blakdakblakdak Posts: 19
    Ben, I usualy do not post on this forum; however, I must take exception to your characterization of the Dodge engines. I have a 2000 club cab with the 4.7L V8, 3.55 rear, towing package and all the other stuff including 400 pounds of sand in the bed. During the winter we have that good oxygenated petrol and semi-foul weather. I commute 120-130 mile per day between Annapolis Md. and Dulles Va. If you are familiar with the area, you know it is virtually all highway, on a good day, and a rolling parking lot the rest of the time. I currently have 48,000 miles and counting. The worst mileage I've gotten is 14-15 mpg, right after I bought the truck. I am currently getting 20.5-21 mpg on winter gas and extra weight in the bed. The mpg has been 23.5-24 on my midnight runs to Virginia Beach. My computer is within 2/10 of mile of my calculator. I am also on the OEM good-fer-a-year tires (I don't undestand how anyone could wear them out with less the 20,000 miles); on the other hand, it's been quite some time since I was younger than 30 years old (maybe that explains it). I've been trying to kill the OEM tires. I haven't rotated in 25,000 miles, I've never had an alignment and still the tires have a good 10K left in them. I guess I'll put on my new wheels and tires before the old wear out. Sorry to be so long winded, but as you can see, my Dak has been as much and probably more than anyone has expected.

    The Dak is Blak!
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    I have the 4.7 w/auto and 3.92. While I won't say my mileage is spectacular, I am getting a steady 16 mpg on average(just for the heck of it, I made a spread sheet program that tracks mpg and cost/mile). I just took a 1200 trip and got 17.5-18.5 doing 75 mph and going up and down Arkansas hills with occasional full throttle passing. On the negative side, with a lot of stop and go in town, I have gotten as low as 12 mpg on one occasion. The factors involved are many. Fill your tank and then take a long non-stop (300+) drive and then check your gas use. If it is still below 15-16 mpg, then you need to hassle your dealer.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Posts: 237
    I could be mistaken, but it was my understanding that the mileage numbers reported to the EPA are taken from specific regulations and standards set forth by the EPA. The car makers cannot just set the numbers where they want. I also believe that the EPA in some way audits or follows up on these ratings (at least in theory). If this was not the case, we'd all be driving trucks rated at 100mpg city/ 200 hwy. wouldn't we?
  • ihsalwaysihsalways Posts: 16
    1. Any definite word about 5.9 V-8, or any engine w/ more torque than 4.7, coming to SLT or Sport (not just R/T) ClubCabs?

    2. Anyone know when K&N, or other similar, high quality, induction enhancements will be available "off-the-shelf," w/o any modification for 4.7? My local Dodge guy, says, "Not yet, should be soon," but he's been saying that for awhile...

    3. Anyone know of a quality, goodlooking, across-the-bed,'tuff tool box especially sized to Dakota?
  • got a '99 dakota club cab V-6 with 3.92 rear end, auto trans, trailer pkg--supposed to be good for 5,200 lbs--considering a trailer weighing about 3,200 lbs empty--does anyone have any experience with these weights--would appreicate any comments via email to
  • Does anyone know where I can get the service manual for 2001 4.7 auto??

  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    For a Service Manual for the 2001 Dakota try Dyment Distribution Services at 1-800-890-4038. This is the official DaimlerChrysler manual. Mine was $105.44 delivered. Very detailed book.
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    The last time I checked, the EPA numbers are done by the EPA with vehicles provided by the manufacturers. The testing was done on a dyno, and was programed to mimic certain operating parameters. The catch is a dyno does not get affected by wind, weather or other factors. Plus, the manufacturers have been known to help the results a little, as allowed, like no A/C, higest available rearend, minimal weight, etc. Its is like a sport. You play within the rules, but you take as much edge as you can get away with.

    A V6 CC may be rated to tow 5200 lbs, but the engine is not going to be happy. Don't forget that the tow rating is not the only factor. You have to look at the total vehicle weight. At maximum tow rate, you are allowed almost no weight in the vehile itself. The GCWR is only 9200 lbs. So the truck and passengers and gear can only weigh 4000 lbs. It ain't going to happen.
  • ihsalwaysihsalways Posts: 16
    Spent 40 years so far around trucks & P/U's. Regardless of what any "specs" say, it's ignorant to pull anything heavier than about 1 Ton w/ ANY little (i.e., V-6) gasoline eng., or to load any P/U w/ the little engines w/ more than a half Ton of stuff-- ESPECIALLY if multiple stops & starts and/or grades are involved, ESPECIALLY above about 5,000' MSL. Just not enough torque, and result will be poor performance and/or reduced engine and/or drive-line life. Dumb, dumb, dumb!
  • bast1bast1 Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Dakota 2w slt club V6. I have the tire and handling group with P255/65R15. I have averaged 13.7 over two years . My driving is all local . I agree with you . The mileage stinks . Other then mileage I have no complaints . I've been back to Dodge also , with same the results as you . Enjoy the truck and ignor the mileage . You can't change it anyway .
  • eng6ineeng6ine Posts: 29
    I just cannot make up my mind. I should start by saying that I will be coming from a 4cyl 5spd Mazda B2300 that is OK. I am not really going to work the truck, as a matter of fact I plan to put a cap on the bed and put in one of those carpet like bed liners in it. I live in Philadelphia so I will not be getting the 4x4, I will however get the 3:55 rear with limited slip(anti-spin). One of my biggest concerns is this new-generation 4.7L V8, are there any big problems with it. From what I have read the V6 is very dependable, even though it is old technology, will it still pass the newer emisions test down the road, after 50,000+ miles. I should mention I am not a lead foot, all I want to be able to do is merge on to a busy I95 a little better than my four banger does. If I feel that I need a little more power in the V6 are there inexpensive ways to do this, e., K&N air filter, CAT back system(does the V6 sound good with this on?). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    eng6ine - Although the 4.7L is new to the Dakota since model year 2000, I think it was offered in the '99 Jeeps. It may be a good idea to check out any Jeep (ewer models) forums to get more of a historical perspective on the 4.7L.

    It seems for the most part, everyone is happy with the 4.7L except for the 15-18 mpg (depending on 4WD or 2WD). Can't say that I've noticed many posts by V-6 owners but one or two have mentioned an incurable per-ignition knock and somewhat anemic "get-up and go".

    Depending on your timing, DC should be offering a "new design" 3.7L V-6 in the future. This may provide you with the best of both worlds (a ewer engine design V-6 and better gas mileage).

    I have a '00 QC SLT, 4.7L, 5sp, 3.55 LSD, soft tonneau cover, T/H and HD group and with no other mods average 15.85 mpg on regular gas in south central PA.
  • choovchoov Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dakota, 4x4 w/4.7 engine. Last October, the check engine light came on and I took it in to my dealer who replaced the trans range sensor. In Jan 01, the light came on and they again replaced the trans range sensor. In late Feb the light came on and again they replaced the trans range sensor. This time it lasted about 2 weeks and yet again the same light came on. This time they said the technician forget to clear the error messages from the computer and they reset the light. I had the truck in twice last week for the same problem and twice this week. So far, they've replaced the TCM, another trans range sensor, and yesterday the ignition switch and I get my truck back again this morning. Unfortunately, my local Dodge service and the Dodge technical assistance line they've been working with have NO clue. I love my truck but WOW. Anyone heard of similar problems or with any insight? Thanks.
  • dsvanneddsvanned Posts: 4
    I just picked up the 2001 oak that I ordered on Feb 24th and did I have a surprize. I negotiated a price $500 over MSRP based on Edmunds site. Well when I got to the dealer to pick it up I sat in it and the dealer said "now is when you should be smiling: I wasn't because their were things I didn't want to order. They ended up ordering the ST Plus package (power windows, power door locks, remote locking system, tire and handling package). The price DID NOT Change they sold it to me for what I negotiated. Then I started smiling. Chrysler Finance also met the lowest rate I got elsewhere. Now I am really smiling.

    Happy Motoring.
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    I would try another service department as the one your currently dealing with can't seem to find the real problem.
    Otherwise press for a buyback or file under lemon law.
    good luck,
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Welcome aboard the dakota ride.
    Hope all goes well for you and the truck.
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    I called Chrysler on Thursday the 29th. They told me my truck was D-1 (scheduled to be built) and that it would ship on the 30th. The next day. They said it could take up to a month for it to arrive at the dealer.

    Does this story sound about right? I hope it gets here before the end of April. I am counting on the rebate as part of my down.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    I believe the average time from order to delivery is currently about 30 days. The factory and the dealer will usually cover their butts by giving you "worst case" times. Shipping should not take more than about 10 days. Good luck!!!
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    At first it seemed odd that it would take less than a day to build then I thought about like the engineer that I am. With today's manufacturing, assuming something doesn't go haywire, it only takes a few hours to build.

    BTW, just for those thinking of buying one. This is Dakota number 2 for me. My other one is a 97 CC with 5.2 SLT 2WD equipted pretty much like the new one. In short loaded

    It has been pretty much trouble free. When new a couple of trim issues and at about 20 something thousand miles the cat convert went out. Thats about it. So far I have, after many mopars only one dog so far, a 76 Dodge Van.
  • dsvanneddsvanned Posts: 4
    I don't want to leave the wrong impression. The negotiated price for my Dakota was $500 over INVOICE NOT over MSRP. The add-on options I did not order but which they put on amount to an additional $780. So effectively I guess the end cost for my Dakota was $280 under invoice.

    As for delivery times I placed my order on 2/17/01. It arrived at the dealer on 3/29/01.
  • corin1corin1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dakota with the 4.7l V8. It only has 5000 miles and I am getting a bad spark knock when the engine is under load. Does anyone know if this can be fixed like they did the 3.9l V6?
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Although I have no personal experience, I did read in a magazine that sometimes the knock isn't a pre-ignition knock. It talked about cavitation in the head's cooling channels due to high temperatures. I've always associated cavitation with vaccums around propeller tips but what do I know. It mentioned that the person had this knock no matter what octane gas was used, therefore something else was causing it. Remedy was was to lower the engine temp slightly with a lower temp thermostat.
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    Cavitation means to make holes. In this case, it is air bubbles in a stream flow that causes damage. (In a boat, it is the prop grabbing air and not water.) Here, it is the transfer heat getting high enough that it boils the air out and creates air pockets. This will eventually create small holes in the metal. If left too long, it can destroy an engine. I deal with 200 HP centrifugal pumps that have this problem if not maintained properly. I also have BIL that lost his diesel truck engine because he waited to put an additive in his radiator and holed a piston.
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Posts: 116
    The first thing to do before you take your truck in for service with a 'check engine light' is to pull the code yourself so you have an idea of what you're facing. To do this, you need only to cycle the ignition 3 times (run-stop-run-stop-run) and watch the odometer for the codes. You can look up the four-digit code at or find them in any service manual. It's incredibly helpful to know what's wrong when you walk in the door.
  • dewdog1dewdog1 Posts: 2
    I just ordered a 2001 dodge Dakota club cab. There are 2 things that I made a mistake with the order. I should have ordered the V8 and the SLT package does not come with Fog Lights installed. Does anyone know how easy it is to install Fog lights on the vehicle?
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Yep, should have gotten the V-8.

    Many have added the factory foglights afterwards. I think the lights, wiring and new main light switch are around $120 but better check on that. I added non-factory Catz MSC 3.5" dia. foglights. It was a "labor of love". Probably the best way to add non-factory lights would be to attach a safari bar on front of truck first and use that as your hanger for the new lights (fogs and/or driving).
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    Well, checked with Union-Pacific railroad and my 2nd CC should be off-loaded at Benicia California on Monday. I would say that my dealer should have it by Wednesday. I expect to be able to pick it up on Saturday. Boy this will be an all day affair. I will be inspecting it IAW the Dodge Ram Checklist that someone else mentioned on these forums and need to haggle my trade-in and financing stuff.

    Wish me luck, I will be one tired camper by the time I get out of there.

    So next week I should be a 2 Dakota man. One blue and silver and one red and silver.
  • choovchoov Posts: 2
    Thanks for the insight. They replaced the ignition switch and after about 200 miles, it's seems to be ok. Service Dept said Dodge has had problems with bad grounds in some of the ignition switches. Who knows but so far so good.
This discussion has been closed.