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Subaru Crew - Modifications II

134689106

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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm considering doing the next Alcan 5000 with my Trooper... Anyone interested in joining me?

    Perhaps Juice can take his Forester with Hutch and we can get Edmunds to sponsor us! Are you listening Edmunds?

    -mike
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    seamus3seamus3 Member Posts: 98
    i thought the alcan 5000 started in portland. i was visiting my parents in olympia, half way between seattle and portland, and i saw rally cars. i pulled to a stop light and next to me pulled up a soob impreza RS. i look inside and am looking right at the driver, he was on the right hand side. it seemed weird to me so i looked the car over. it was from south africa. i also saw a saab, it had to be from the 70's. two door coupe deal with a homemade exhaust. it was funny because both of the guys inside were wearing ear protection, like the guys at the airport that direct planes, on the ground.

    i have checked out tirerack, i actually bought my current tires there. i will ask around and see if i can get them locally.

    what is the differece between the amsoil filter and the k&n filter?
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    barresa11barresa11 Member Posts: 277
    Seamus:

    I used to live in Oly back in the 83'/84' and the early 90's. My folks still live there in the Steamboat Island area. When I was there in the 80's I had imported a US spec Renault LeCar that had the engine rebuilt as an Alpine5 (about 101 hp moving 1800 lbs). It was lowered to the specs of an Alpine5 and had the same 3-lug nut alloy wheels and 185/60x13" Pirelli tires. It was considered tight competition w/the GTI. I remember coming home in the wee hours from a jaunt to Seattle only to find myself in the middle of a pack of rally cars near the Capital Forest in West Oly! I thought I had died and gone to heaven (or still groggy from the drive)! They were as surprised to see me as I them. Anyhow, your post took me back to that time and thought I'd share.

    Stephen in Seattle
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    bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I'm currently using the Amsoil in my OB Sport and the K&N in my wife's OB (both stock airbox). The K&N is a cotton gauze filter with a 10 yr. million mile warranty and the Amsoil is a 2 stage foam filter with an unlimited warranty. The K&N can go from 30-50,000 miles before cleaning and the Amsoil needs to be cleaned around once a year. Flow-wise they're supposed to be about the same. Amsoil says theirs is better at filtering dirt. The Amsoil was around $32 shipped from Amsoil and the K&N was around $50 from a performance shop.
    Dennis
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I had been looking for a link like that for a loooong time! Thanks, Dennis.

    Just skid plates and a roll bar, eh? Though the wheels aren't stock for a 2.5l model. Wonder if they swapped the springs, too.

    paisan: all my racing experience and skills can be summarized right here -> ()

    Seriously, I need some instruction first, then I plan on easing slowly into a bit of recreational autoXing or rallyXing. The Alcan 5000 sounds like a bit much!

    -juice
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    PS That looks like a 1998-2000 L model, oddly enough. Black grille tells all. But that would mean rear drum brakes!
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've only auto-xed a 1/2 dozen times.

    Driven in NYC traffic for 10 years.

    And the Alcan isn't til 2004! So you have plenty of practice time!

    I'm actually planning on doing some auto-xs down in MD with the XT6 this spring, so we'll have to drag you out to em with the forester or the miata.

    -mike
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Definitely let me know. I'd like to watch one or two before I hop in.

    Hey - NYC driving is a rally! ;-)

    -juice
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    kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I'll second that. Between the potholes and cabbies, you definetly gain certain skills. Even better is driving stick in the city.

    I know. I'm from NYC. ;)

    Ken
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    lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    juice, Paisan, gimme a holler when you go out. I'd like to come along.
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    logger2logger2 Member Posts: 31
    Thanks for all you advice guys. I am going to take my first stab at modifying my forester. I am going to go with either a K&N or an amsoil filter and a dual cup holder. If anybody has any info on changing the wiring to increase the strength of the fog lights, i would appreciate it - costs, how to? etc. Also, if anybody knows where to get one of those black stickers with the white lettering for the windshield, i'd like to put that on too.

    One thing i find very aggravating is to try and track this stuff down in Canada, it seems hard to find here. any ideas??

    Thanks
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    kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I think Susquehanna Motorsports offers wiring tips as well as wiring products. Check out:

    http://www.rallylights.com/other/wiring.htm

    Ken
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    seamus3seamus3 Member Posts: 98
    barresa11: i have some other autoX stories you would love. my friend and i were caught in the middle of a race out in the middle of the woods, near shelton, in his '87 toyota pick-up. it was pretty crazy. i have seen part of that race in the capitol forrest, it's cool.

    i'll check out the amsoil filter.
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    logger2logger2 Member Posts: 31
    Anybody know which K&N Filter fits in the forester? I finally found a supplier that's local!

    Thanks
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    rplumrplum Member Posts: 48
    Your dealer should be able to do a quick search for you regarding the K&N air filter part number. I used to know the Impreza models #s, but my brain is getting foggy. If I find them before I see them here, I will post them. Way back when, I had an amsoil on my personal car (1998 Impreza) and I was quite happy with it.

    Just got back from a trip to the U.P. Michigan where I got the chance to put some pretty cool cars through their paces at the test facility in Houghton.

    I got to drive what is probably the only Audi RS4 in America, an Audi A6 4.2 Wagon, a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 Estate, a Subaru Impreza GT Turbo, a Hummer, the new Audi MDX, BMW X-5 3.0, Lexus RX300 and some other GM cars. We were analyzing the different stability and AWD systems, and even though it lacks the fancy gadgets of the others, the Impreza was very highly rated by our test group, until it went into a snowbank a bit too hard. The RS4 also lost a bit of it's front fascia (big $$$$$!).

    Subaru made a very strong showing, and I would say most of the engineers preferred our Impreza over the RS4 on most of the snow/ice surfaces.

    I also came away from the trip certain that the next modification my personal car will get is a rear limited slip diff. no questions about it.

    RP
    -still catching up..........
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    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Ryan, please assure us that it was some other engineer and not you that had a hand in either stuffing.

    ;-)

    -Colin
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    rplumrplum Member Posts: 48
    Colin,

    nope, I stayed "clean". I put the Hummer somewhat into a bank, but just backed out and that was it. My test group half was on the other side of the facility and when we returned, the Impreza and the RS4 were both "dinged". The Impreza was eventually hacked (stretched) back together (minus the A/C), the Audi RS4 parts are all proprietary and will most likely cost GM big dollars to replace. It was still fully functional though.

    I hope the guys that did it lost some sleep. I was sick seeing the RS4 fascia all bent up. what a lovely car. I'll have pics tomorrow, and I'll try to get them up on my photopoint account.

    Ryan
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ryan: sounds like a fun time. Nice to have access to the press fleet, no?

    I'd still love an RS4 Avant. Sweet power. Wow!

    -juice
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    ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    Yup, I have been thinking about this device. Think it's a good investment to get more hp out of my aged EJ22? Yeah 1999 was a good year ain't it Colin? ;-)
    Anyhow, it's time for me to get more hp. I alreayd have Intake, catback and pulley. No headers yet. Wish i can. But not sure if I can stand any more noise! My passengers are afraid of my car. Babies cry when I drive by, alarms go off in the parking lot, city thinks that it was hit with an earthquake... =) So please share your view of Apexi's SAFC.
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    fjm1fjm1 Member Posts: 137
    Looking to buy a early to mid 90s Legacy turbo wagon. Currently own a Acura 92 GSR and 00 BMW 323 sport so I like my cars with rip/zip. The Integra just won't haul enough people/stuff so I figured wagon. BMW only hauls ^$$, no Home Depot potential. Researched the specs and found the 95 and up Legacy wagons to be slugs. The pre95 turbos at least have potential.

    I enjoy aftermarket shadetree upgrades but haven't found much on the web for these wagons. Even without upgrading I would probably be happy with the power. But we can always use more power can't we? Suspension seems to be no problem, but a upgraded turbo is the ticket. I have checked Cobb, SPD, and Rallispec w/no luck. Any others?

    Is there any major gremlins on these wagons? Models or years to avoid?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Like the plague! I just spent $500 on parts to convert my XT6 to non-air suspension... Not a fun prospect.

    -mike
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    lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    Check here:


    http://www.impreza-rs.com/cgi-bin/ubb/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=Legacy+Forum&number=6&DaysPrune=1&LastLogin=


    Folks on this site will have some answers, as a few of them have exactly the car you are considering.

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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Justin Coleman, a local i Clubber, has the SAFC and showed it to me up close. He ran through all the functions and they looked pretty cool.

    He also showed me dyno charts, and they looked impressive. He's up 40hp at the wheels with all his upgrades, and he doesn't even have headers or cams!

    The catch is you have to program it, and the best way to do that is on the dyno. So that's what costs you.

    The good news is that it has good fuel programming control, and actually calculates the mileage for you. Overall it was actually running 2% leaner than before, which could save gas.

    If you like gizmos, it's one heck of a gizmo. You can display all kinds of charts with lights that move up and down. Not my cup of tea, but...

    -juice
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    ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    just want to add somemore oomph to the car.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    He did say it gave him more power, but I think specifically it provides better control of the fuel/air mix and such.

    Its cost plus the dyno time may not make it the most cost-effective mod.

    Just my 2 cents' worth.

    -juice
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    kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    Speaking of mods, any more developments in Project Forester 2.5RS?

    Ken
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've been thinking...

    What else can I do that'll keep it civil for the baby?

    I've read a bunch more about K&Ns, and definitely decided against those. Foam filters are much less talked about, though.

    I still have to buy that intake hose and try to silence the hum.

    Then what? Maybe swap the tranny fluid to synthetic, as well as the rear differential fluid.

    As for non-peformance mods, I'm working on an in-car DVD player. Got the notebook PC from work, managed to get DVD software for it, then a car-charger for it, so now it's ready to go, I just have to try it.

    Funny thing is only the baby sits in the back seat, so it'll probably be showing Sesame Street videos.

    Come to think of it - that is a performance mod. I'll drive faster to get it over with! ;-)

    -juice
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    kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    Seasame Street as a performance mod -- that cracked me up! Hey, who knows, the sound of a turbocharger spooling up just might be soothing to a baby!

    I think we've hit all the low-hanging fruit in terms of mods. Anything else before we go to Phase II? Sesame Street in dts surround sound?

    Ken
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, good point. Now to sell that turbo concept to the wife...

    I may follow the i Clubs instructions to paint the logo the same color as my Forester (Acadia Green Metallic). I wonder if the touch-up paint will be enough to do that big of an area.

    Or I could do it in yellow and get an extra 5 horsepower!

    Then I have to try to suction out that small indentation in the rear passenger side door. It's very minor, but I notice it.

    Spring cleaning, maybe? I may clean the brakes a bit. During the recall of the master cylinder they bleed them, so no need.

    No mods on the horizon for now, though I did help Hutch put his 18mm rear sway bar on this past weekend. :-)

    -juice
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    lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    Brakes, droog. Metalmaster Powerstop pads for the front from Primitive (www.get-primitive.com), and Motul 600 synth fluid, maybe SS lines, although that isn't as important, IMHO. Got my Powerstops Friday, along with a pint of fluid. Waiting for better weather, as I don't have a garage.

    What have you read about K&N? I've been told they really don't filter very well after a while. Someone from i-Club GAVE me one at the 1st MASC meeting, but there ain't no diff on the butt dyno. I think the paper one is going back in.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Let me know when you do that. I may even be able to help.

    Do you have instructions for bleeding them?

    Are those semi-metallic pads? I've heard they grab better but are also more likely to squeek.

    I think if I did the brakes, I'd change the rear drums to discs (from a junkyard S) first. That would be a heck of a project.

    -juice
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    lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    yea, they're semi-metallic all right. I don't know how to bleed the fluid. Do you have a garage? Maybe I could zip over there and we could do the pads.....
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Everyone I know who's automotively in the know, say the K&N filters are the best you can get for a drop in. The key is to clean and re-oil them at regular intervals. I noticed a slight increase in the Butt Dyno on the Trooper during 4000+rpm acceleration, and 1mpg increase in fuel milage.

    I like em cause they are re-usable.

    Brakes to me are the 2nd most important thing you can do on your car, after tires. I may go for some cross drilled rotors on the Trooper when the time comes and some Semi-metalic or metalic pads.

    -mike
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    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Guess I'm not in the know!

    I prefer AMSOil foam filters for cars... Dirtbikes come standard with foam filters and the guys that use a cotton gauze filter on their dirtbikes apparently can afford rebuilds more often than I.

    -Colin
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    kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Same here. I chose Amsoil over K&N because I've read here and there that they do a better job in filtering dirt. I was willing to sacrifice some airflow (still better than paper, though) for getting the job done.

    Perhaps in practice, the difference is minor.

    Ken
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I was asking basically K&N v. Stock Paper...

    Amsoil may very well be better than the K&N, just passing on what I heard/asked about.

    -mike
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have a car port, but it's open, so it would get cold. I have good basic tools, but not brake-specific tools (don't we need a C clamp of some sort?). E-mail me.

    The K&N debate gets interesting. They dominate the aftermarket, so I'm sure a lot of folks are out to get them. In their advertising they say F1 folks use their filters.

    Then again, those engines typically last about 2-3 hours.

    -juice
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    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Hi Juice and lucien while synthetic fluid is highly desirable because it does not absorb moisture it is very difficult to bleed air from the system.

    I know this from experience because this is what I have in my 89 accord,having said that it is worth the grief to persevere because this is the last time you are going to be replacing brake fluid.

    If you are changing fluid I would suggest you spring for a set of braided stainless steel flex hoses they really firm up the pedal and improve braking by a good thirty percent the before and after has to be experienced to be believed.

    There is no big mystery about changing pads you need a large c clamp to compress the pistons back in the bores as for bleeding you keep at it until all the air bubbles are gone, you should be able to pick up a book at your public library on the procedure otherwise get a hold of a workshop manual, I live too far from guys as I would love to get involved in giving you a hand good luck.

    Cheers Pat. PS> I know it as silicon fluid.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have a pair of c-clamps that I use for wood, about 4" opening. Will that do?

    Loosh - are their instructions with the brake pads? Miata.net has printed instructions but they are so-so and it's a different vehicle.

    I have a Haynes for the Miata, too.

    -juice
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    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Juice 6 inch or bigger is desirable 4 inch would be pushing it, if you can change pads in one vehicle you can do them all.
    My suggestion do one side at a time that way you always have one fully assembled brake set up to refer to.
    Cheers Pat.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I was actually guessing. I'll check my clamps tonight, measure them. Heck, what am I saying? I'll get digital photos.

    -juice
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    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Okay Juice keep me posted.
    Cheers pat.
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    francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    Heh. It used to be that if you pushed the pistons back on a Subie, you'd break them! On the early 80's models the handbrake worked on the front pads and there was a threaded mechanism attached to the piston. Pushing them back (as one did on every other car on the planet) would break the mechanism. You had to rotate them until they were fully retracted.

    FWIW I use a set of very large channel-lock pliers (over a foot long). This tool, and a substantial hammer, are a mechanic's best allies ;-) Seriously, the pliers are great for removing oil filters and a bunch of other stuff too. I don't know where the name comes from but I've long called them "chicken pliers".

    Cheers,
    -wdb
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    To take the cap of the brake resivoir off when you compress the piston.

    -mike
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    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Juice, I just had a thought most cars on the road use a single piston sliding caliper design while the sube uses two piston design you have to clamp one piston before trying to compress the other piston into the bore otherwise hydraulic pressure can cause the unclamped piston to be forced right out of the bore.

    Franchophile, the screw type you describe is still used for the handbrake on most rear disc designs, it is subject to seizing particularly in situations where large amounts of road salt is used,Subaru use a drum in rotor design on their rear disc setup which is more superior
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    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Good point Mike, better still take a turkey baster looks like a large syringe and remove some brake fluid.
    Cheers Pat.
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    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    wdb, "Channel-Lock" is a brand name. I believe they developed that type of slip-adjustable jaw pliers. Pliers, channel-locks, dikes... we know what you're talking about.

    btw, using them on oil filters? yeah, that's like 30 seconds before you really thrash the stuck filter and look around for a screwdriver or punch to put through it, and 5 minutes before you cut away the filter with tin snips and work at the threaded boss directly. been there, done that...

    -Colin
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    francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    Those are wire cutters, a.k.a. diagonal cutting pliers, a.k.a. dikes.

    Never had an oil filter quite *that* siezed. I'm impressed by your perseverance though :-) Reminds me of some of frozen kingpins I've removed, like the one where we had to take the entire axle out (of a semi-tractor) and haul it to the location of a 60-ton press. When that thing finally popped loose, BANG! What a noise.

    Ah, youth. The work I do these days is measured in megabits.

    Cheers,
    -wdb
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    jackleungjackleung Member Posts: 79
    Juice,
    I browse thru yr site and found that modification very cool. Just wonder if it fits to 2001 model. I just got my S+ 3 days ago and I am really happy with that car!
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    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    wdb, unfortunately I have removed oil filters like that at least twice. Strangely, both times I was certain that the stuck filters were installed only hand-tight and the gaskets were lightly oiled.

    ;-)

    -Colin
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