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Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

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  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    I just noticed that I said the wrong thing a few days back, the can of 3 in 1 oil out in the garage says "SAE 20", I had thought it was a 10 wt oil, sorry about that.
    see y'all in a bit
    Rando
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Post #1498
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Standard Valvoline is not expensive, the next is Maxlife, and the Durablend, then the Synpower.

    Mobil1 filter is about 12 dollars now, so I would put it as the most expensive.

    Fram Penzoil, QState and STP are all inexpensive filters.

    Champion is above them.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    K&N Filters can cost $15 when they need to be ordered. (Not all brands are stocked). I think that SuperTech are potentially the cheapest. But really is there any point to ranking them in order of cost? If the cheapest is no good and decreases the life of the car, its no bargain. If the most expensive is no good and decreases the life of the car its in the same boat. Question is: which is best-cost is almost irrelevant, unless you drive around a $500 beater which uses a quart of oil every 100 miles (IMHO).

    Later
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    as far as I know they're identical to SuperTech and Deutsch (if that brand is being sold somewhere).
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Sorry guys, I forgot to explain. I was trying to rank each oil and filter which is the best in each limited price range. For instance, if someone with a point A to B car wanted to get a the best oil they can get for around $1.50 per range, and filter in $4 range, they would get (blank) and (blank). I'm thinking I was way off in my previous list. The reason I want to classify this in my mind is to know for future reference/cars. Any help is appreciated.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    or rather blended into the mainstream oil technilogy so much that there is no practical difference?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Although I don't normally like to steal text from a source, this is mostly promo. hype that I'm sure Pennzoil/Quaker State would be more than glad to have repeated.


    Lessons (I think)...


    1. A vehicle, especially with a low tech, low reving engine can easily do high mileage with a dino. oil.


    2. Running many miles a day rather than short trips certainly helps.


    3. If a vehicle can do a million miles on 3K changes, it can probably do 200K on 4K changes. Do you want to go way out of your way to make the engine last a lot longer than the car as a whole?


    "Pennzoil-Quaker

          State Company Releases Initial Report on Million-Mile Engine

    HOUSTON (February 7, 2001) ; Regularly changing the oil every 3,000 miles contributed to keeping the engine of a 1995 pick up truck in near optimal condition even after a million miles of severe driving. This is the observation reached by researchers at Pennzoil-Quaker State Company's Technology Center in The Woodlands, Texas, following a detailed inspection and rating process performed on this million-mile engine.

    Pennzoil-Quaker State Company [NYSE:PZL] obtained the million-mile pick up truck in August 2001 from William White of Lawrenceville, Georgia. Mr. White had driven his truck, a 1995 Chevrolet, approximately 800 miles per day while delivering newspapers to several cities in North Carolina and Tennessee. Every four workdays, Mr. White took his truck to a local fast lube, Lube 3000, to have his oil changed, always insisting on

          Pennzoil® brand motor oil.

    On August 29, 2001, the truck's odometer turned over to 1,000,000 while driving into the Lube 3000 oil-change bay. Pennzoil-Quaker State Company officials were on site to congratulate Mr. White, and take possession of the million-mile truck in exchange for a new pick up. The million-mile truck was then transported to Pennzoil-Quaker State Company's technology center for study.

    "The million-mile truck engine is in excellent mechanical condition," said Jeffery Hsu, senior research engineer. "The engine exhibited very minimal wear considering that it was operational for more than one million miles." Of particular importance, "the million-mile engine is very clean in the category of sludge and varnish."

    Rating & Measurements:

    To rate and measure the million-mile engine for sludge, varnish and wear, CRC (Coordinating Research Council) rating practices were carried out utilizing CRC manuals 12, 14 and 16. The scale of rating is from 1-10, 10 being a part that has not been used and 9.9 being the highest score a clean part can be assigned. The sludge rating of all oil parts had an average of 9.33 with nothing lower than an 8.60, which were recorded on the valve covers. Wear measurements were carried out on applicable lubrication parts with four measurements observed per part and the average being recorded. When possible, the original specification measurements from the manufacturer were used to estimate wear. For example, the cylinder wall measurements averaged 4.001 inches versus the factory new cylinder wall specification of 3.9995 to 4.0025 inches. The wear was so minimal that an average of 11.9 percent of the original crosshatch honing marks were still present.

    Comments:

    The engine seems to be in excellent condition; both by visual rating for cleanliness and instrumentation measurements for wear. The condition of the engine is indicative of an engine that was well maintained with regular oil changes. This is evidenced by only trace amounts of sludge and the light coloration of varnish. Sludge is usually formed from harmful contaminations accumulating in used oil (fuel, moisture, and blow-by gases). Varnish coloring is associated with temperature; the darker the varnish coloring the more the oil has experienced high temperatures.

    Highway driving conditions are typically classified as "normal" driving; however, this vehicle was loaded with bulk papers. The driving cycle of ~ 800 miles a day kept the oil temperature in a very favorable condition where many of the contaminants could be boiled off. The owner's diligence in changing his truck's oil every four days or about 3200 miles provided the engine with fresh lubricant that protected moving parts from sludge accumulation and kept the varnish to a minimum.

    Pennzoil® brand products are manufactured and distributed by Pennzoil-Quaker State Company [NYSE:PZL], a leading worldwide automotive consumer products company, marketing over 1,300 products with 20 leading brands in more than 90 countries. Jiffy Lube, a wholly owned subsidiary of Pennzoil-Quaker State Company, is the world's largest fast lube operator and franchiser. For more information about Pennzoil-Quaker State Company, visit its website at

          http://www.pennzoil-quakerstate.com."

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    The time is too short. Newspapers have been known to also disseminate gossip. I think this is the case here. Now if it were 15 years old or more, it might be more believable.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    about a thousand years ago, people spoke about Quaker State, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Kendall, etc. with particular reverence because they were "Pennsylvania" oils. Since then I've heard others speak against these oils because they have lots of paraffin and are supposed to sludge up.

    Question...

    1. Given the fact that Pz/QS is a Texas company, are there any such things as Pennsylvania oils any more?

    2. If they're not really Pennsylvania oils, did they used to be? Was that a good thing or a bad thing?

    3. Is paraffin good or bad in an oil?
  • alexiskaialexiskai Member Posts: 21
    Might be bogus, but the math works. Let's say they lied about the 800 mi./day. Let's say he drove an average of 60 mph for eight hours a day (reaching speeds of 80 mph but also stopping on occasion). And let's say he delivered papers six days a week and took two weeks vacation a year. And let's say he bought the truck as a next-year's model in '94 and drove it for seven years. So that's 60 mph times eight hrs./day times 300 days/yr. times seven years.
    60*8*300*7 = 1,008,000 miles.
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    Not sure about one and two, but just a note.
    Parafin refers to straight chain hydrocarbons, as opposed to cyclic (circular shaped) molecules of hydrocarbons. Candle wax is just one form of parafin wax. These days the oil comes out of the ground and gets extremely processed/reacted into whatever it needs to be as a final product...years ago alot of it was just seperated by distillation and solvents and then used as is.
    see ya
    good mornin
    Rando
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    ...I used to hear from my father that Pennsylvania oil was considered top notch stuff, but that Texas and Oklahoma crude was even better. I was told that Texaco and Havoline was where it was at. Over the past several decades, I have found those statements to remain difficult to refute.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    There are certain basic elements in conventional oil

    parfinic
    napthetic
    aromatic

    Parafins increase the flash point, and firepoint, but solidify at lower temperatures.

    All natural oils have all three elements to some degree.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    10W30 SuperTech Pennzoil Quaker St. Wolf's Head Valvoline Mobil Exxon
    Visc. 40c 73.2 67.0 69.1 65.3 70.8 70.0 71.7
    Visc 100c 11.0 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.4 10.5
    Visc. Indx 140 160 139 138 135 134 132
    Flash-F 410 430 410 430 421 392 408
    Pour-F -29 -33 -22 -17 -33 -33 -33
    Low Pumping-C -25 -30 -22 -30
    Don't know what (if anything this proves). All oil sheets up to date except for the Wal-Mart-- still SJ although new SL oils have been introduced.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I was trying to edit it and make it more readable and I get the word exceeds 115 characters error message. To my untrained eye it looks like--

    1. Wal-Mart house brand isn't any of the three PZ/QS brands but is as good as most of them.
    2. Pennzoil looks superior for low pour point.
    3. Wolf's Head looks inferior for low pour point.
    4. Mobil looks inferior for low flash point.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Wal Mart "5 quart" Bottles of 5-30 are now SL, althought the individual bottles are still SJ. Isn't this stuff just private label Pennzoil?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Wal-Mart is neither Quaker State or Pennzoil but a separate formula. Look at my comparison sheets. I also have spec. sheets for other weights, although I just posted for 10W30. In general it doesn't spec. out as good as Pennzoil, but it does match or better Quaker State and Wolf's Head. It would be interesting to see whether SuperTech is identical to other Pz/QS private labels or if it's a one-off. I'm tired of annoying the Pz/QS tech personnel. Someone else might want to pose that question.

    I also didn't receive a SuperTech tech sheet on their synthetic or syn. blends although I did request one. Just an SJ dino. spec. sheet-- even though all grades are now SL, at least in the St. Louis market.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I just picked up a couple cases of Valvoline All Fleet 15W-40 on a CSK oil sale. I got it for motorcycle use. I noted that it is rated SJ (and a selection of diesel ratings as well). I "heard" that All Fleet 15W-40 has been discontinued by Valvoline. Anyone out there know anything about such?
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    wonder if the present ratings are better than years ago?
    like, is the cheapest oil on the market today better than "the best" was 5 years ago??

    I bet some of these oil upgrades are just marketing hype
  • dellwelldellwell Member Posts: 27
    Hello all. I was just wondering what grade of oil is best to put in my 97 Tahoe for summer driving? The manual says 5w-30 or 10w-30 (have this grade now) but I heard some where that for summer weather, there is another grade I should consider. I think it was 15w-30? So a long story short, what grade should I put in the Tahoe? It has 90000 miles on it. Thanks for the info….
  • 87ranger287ranger2 Member Posts: 13
    Just use a good 10-30 synthetic year around & you will be fine.I've been using Amsoil synthetic since 1979 & it seems as if you just cant wear an engine out when using it. And I don't have to waste my time crawling under the cars every 3,000 miles to change oil.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    If you feel the engine is in outstanding condition at 90K, you could easily go with 10W-30 or 10W-40. If you like heavier oils and heavy duty protection, 15W-40 is a great warm weather choice.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Since both oils are 30wt at operating temp, both shoul be fine.

    Some folks prefer the 10W for summer because it offers a little more protection when the engine is warming up and because it has fewer additives to make it a 30 weight at operating temperature. The 5W or 0W give better flow on startup for winter.

    As 87ranger2 indicated, the synthetic 10W-30 is a very good choice because a synthetic 10W pumps as low as a 0W conventional oil for winter purposes and is a better natural lubricant at 30wt than conventional oil. As was mentioned 3K drain intervals are overkill with syn.
  • gyegye Member Posts: 31
    After a lot reading from this site, finally bought a case at Costco, $10.99, 12 quarts.

    Did oil change today. To my big surprise, the oil looks so different from Pennzoil. Color is extremely light and clear, versus dark brown of Penn., and it pours so easily and oil seems so slippery. Pennzoil is much thicker and takes longer to empty a bottle.

    It seems hydrocracking group II+ does make difference, at least on the appearence alone.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    to compare with Pennzoil, since Pennzoil was the best performing dino. oil that I pulled up in my comparison of SuperTech and brand name oils. Suprisingly I couldn't find any data on Chevron Supreme on their web site.

    I did do a quick comparison of Bobistheoilguy's beloved Schaeffer's and it was significantly better in most areas, not suprising since it's a syn. blend.
  • gyegye Member Posts: 31
    Better than I Pennzoil at least by my interpretion.

    Typical Test Data

    SAE Grade 5W-20 5W-30 10W-30 10W-40 20W-50 30 40
    CPS Number 220135 220013 220019 220059 220060 220002 220011
    MSDS Number 8407 6717 6717 6717 6717 6717 6717
    API Gravity 32.2 32.4 30.5 30.8 31.9 29.6 29
    Viscosity, Kinematic
    cSt at 40°C 49.2 66.1 74.8 98.9 174.4
    cSt at 100°C 8.6 11 10.8 14.4 19.1
    Viscosity, Cold Crank,
    °C/Poise
    -30/53
    -30/63
    -25/64
    -25/64
    -15/80


    Viscosity Index 154 159 135 148 124 114 112
    Flash Point, °C(°F) 224(435) 224(435) 234(453) 234(453) 250(482) 240(464) 250(482)
    Pour Point, °C(°F) -43(-45) -43(-45) -38(-36) -38(-36) -35(-31) -30(-22) -24(-11)
    Sulfated Ash, wt % 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86
    Base Number, ASTM D 2896 7.1 7.1 7.1 7.1 7.1 7.1 7.1
    Phosphorus, wt % 0.098 0.098 0.098 0.098 0.098 0.098 0.098
    Zinc, wt % 0.109 0.109 0.109 0.109 0.109 0.109 0.109

    Typical test data are average values only. Minor variations which do not affect product performance are to be expected in normal manufacturing.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    I was looking at Havoline's page and checked the base oils, it took me to the Chevron base oils page.

    Check the following, this is the Chevron oil page, you can click on the "data sheets" on the left.

    http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/motoroils.shtm
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I wish my local Costcos would stock this stuff! $10.99 a case is ridiculous. I guess I'll have to be satisfied with getting a case at Wal-Mart for $12.96, which is still very good for what seems to be an excellent oil.
  • wtdwtd Member Posts: 96
    who else stocks this stuff? My local Wal-Marts do not carry it. I don't recall seeing it at the local O'reillys, Pepboys, or Autozone.

    Wayne
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I've only noticed it at Wal-Mart. I know some folks' Costco Wholesales stock it, but not in my area.

    I'm sure some of the auto parts stores carry it, but I can't recall which ones off-hand. Seems like AutoZone might, but Murray's doesn't. But I'd rather pay Wal-Mart prices for this stuff anyway. The auto parts stores are usually 50 cents a quart higher.

    The other SL-rated conventional oil I've heard good things about is Citgo SuperGard. It seems to be even less well-known than Chevron Supreme, but has a similar pedigree (hydrocracked base stocks or whatever) and reputation. Both are among the cheaper brand-name dino oils in my area. My garage shelves are stocked with about 20 quarts of each.

    Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Perhaps the Chevron web site lists some retailers.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Checker, Schuck's, & Kragen stores carry Chevron.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
  • pepper32pepper32 Member Posts: 23
    Many oil jobbers around the country carry Chevron products. The jobbers supply truck fleets, mining and construction outfits. Many carry automotive oils and greases.
  • wtdwtd Member Posts: 96
    I live in southeast Missouri. The only Chevron oil Wal-Mart carries here is the Delo stuff for diesel engines. I'm pretty sure O'Reillys carries the Citgo brand. I'll have to go check the other autoparts stores again.

    fleetwoodsimca,
    We don't have CSK auto parts stores around here.

    I would like to try the Chevron oil after my supply of Mobil 1 is gone, but may have to try the Citgo stuff instead. Thanks.

    Wayne
  • gyegye Member Posts: 31
    After changing oil with Chevron 5w-30 for 3 cars(mine, wife's and parents') during last several days, does feel the diffrence.

    My car is '01 odyssey, wife's car is '00 Accord v6, parents' is '97 Accord I4.

    Before all cars use Pennzoil 5w-30. My previous experience with Pennzoil is that after oil change, only I4 will have detectable smoother and quieter operation.

    This time change 2 V6s with Chevron and I4 with left over Pennzoil. After change instantly feel 2 V6s engines are very distinguishly smoother and quieter, revving is easier and looser. The difference is greater than Pennzoil change on the I4. What a pleasent surprise. Since this is the first time I use Chevron, I'm going to keep eye on its performance throughout till next oil change.

    I want to thank a lot people's input on this forum that helped me made the switch.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I'll bet that your Chevron was SL grade where the Penzoil unless purchased recently is probably SJ.

    On the lighter grades, in order to meet the higher anti sludge properties, it must use high grade class II and III stocks. These reduce volitility and make the newer oils run smoother.

    I found the same difference when I switched from Quaker State SJ to a Valvoline SL.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    You said "On the lighter grades, in order to meet the higher anti sludge properties, it must use high grade class II and III stocks." I have heard basically this same statement here and there, but I'm wondering where you actually heard or read this.

    I'm not disputing it at all, just curious to know your source(s).
  • ocelot1ocelot1 Member Posts: 101
    Chevron has a little chart on performance SJ verse SL ,The SL has more friction modifyers I'll guess thats the smoothness difference.
  • gyegye Member Posts: 31
    "I'll bet that your Chevron was SL grade where the Penzoil unless purchased recently is probably SJ."

    Sorry that I didn't make it clear in my post, the Pennzoil I bought since later last year are all SL. I live in San Francisco bay area(silicon valley). Our local Wal-mart Pennzoil is $1.71 a quarts. Chevron costs $10.99 a case at Costco, which is $0.92 a quart.

    The pleasant surprise to me is that I believe I found a better oil(Chevron 5w-30), rather than a better service grade(SL), even though it is better than SJ.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Bluedevil

    I studied the SL specifications and consulted with tech support of at least 3 oil companies to get that information.

    The old SJ requires a 60 hour survival on the old sludge test with no more than 250% thickening. The SL standard requires 80 hours with no more than 50% thickening. Standard oil can't do that in the lighter weights so the more durable hydrocracked stocks must be added. Don't know in what percentages.

    gye

    I didn't want to say it before, but your experience has also been mine. My switch to Valvoline in 2 cars has also been accompanied by a quieter smoother engine. I listened to this site about the base oil not being as good and tried Valvoline. My Mazda specialist mechanic also said that their experience is that the valve trains wear out faster on pzl/qs than Valvoline. So on that car the switch will be permanent.

    The QS synthetic is a PAO and is excellent. It also quieted the engine. I will keep running it in the vehicle that used it in the past.

    I have no doubt the Chevron is also an excellent brand. All of the newest ones I see at the auto stores list it as SL with Isosyn (I assume their name for higher grade stocks since at that price I can't see them adding a PAO.) I took a vacation recently and I put in Chevron gas when I could because it is the smoothest and most consistent when traveling. I wouldn't be surprised that they took the same care with their motor oils. Sounds like a good deal.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks for the details.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Those details reinforce my feelings that SL oils are better than their SJ predecessors, some SL oils are MUCH better than the SJ predecessors, and the best SL oils are much closer in performance to the synthetics than earlier dino-based oils were.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    and since the hydrocracked are naturally good on seals, I am now blending half syn with SL (Maxlife). I like the better anti-wear of syn, and the better barrier lubrication of Maxlife with their large dose of Moly, but don't want to overcondition some seals that I replaced recently. I'm finally comfortable extending this drain interval out to 5K with this setup.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Is the SJ/SL rating applicable only to dino-based oils or does it apply to synthetics as well?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I've always wondered why some synthetic oils were so late in getting SL status. Mobil dino was SL well before Mobil 1.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Mobil told me that they had to change their formulation to meet some of the requirements. I know for sure that the volitility requirements were reduced. That seems to have raised the pour point somewhat, but won't affect flow rate at 16 to 20 degrees below zero, so it's fine for me.
  • frulefrule Member Posts: 82
    And it makes no differentiation based on whether the oil is dino,cracked,PAO,or whatever.

    So why would Mobil-1 have to make changes to meet the same standards that even the cheapest SL dino oils were meeting?There used to be a big gap in volatility between dino and synths.Seems like the gap is narrowing ......A LOT!

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