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I think most everyone here disagrees with me on using thicker oil on a vehicle but I have been doing it for years and I intend to keep doing it. I start swapping out thicker oil at 50k miles on my vehicles,,,the mfgr is worried more about some extra mpg rather than extra engine life,,and summers get HOT around here.
You should do as you believe to be best for your driving circumstances, I believe in using thicker than 10w/30 oil, it seems the majority of folks use either 5w or 10w/30...either way definitely follow the mfgr recommendations while under warranty, after that, it's up to me to make it last not them any more.
see y'all in a bit
Rando
But, whatever you feel comfotable with
see ya
Rando
I use Red Line 5W30 in my Honda that has over 117,000 miles on the odometer and my car's oil consumption is so low that I don't need to add any between 7,000 mile oil intervals.
As for Marvel Mystery Oil, I used to love this stuff ... in the gas tank of carbureted engines. I never bothered to use it in the crankcase. And with today's ultra-thin oils widely available, I see no point to trying. It was originally designed to thin out straight 30 for winter use ... before multi-vis oils were available.
But, I simply don't trust MMO in today's fuel-injected cars.
I used to use a few ounces this in my '86 Escort GT. When I did, my mileage jumped a couple percent and my oil consumption went from low to just about ZERO. I've just been leery about using it in any injected vehicle since, though.
--- Bror Jace
From following the info trail, I have ascertained that 10W-30 is the "heaviest" oil that can be classified SL. Catch this, gents: I bought a case of Formula Shell today that is labelled as SL, and the viscosity is 20W-50.
TB
Protection against thermal breakdown
Clean engines and clean positive crankcase ventilation systems resulting from minimal deposit formation under heavy load and stop-and-go driving conditions.
Exceeds warranty requirements of car and light truck manufacturers relying on an API SL motor oil.
Features
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils are premium quality automotive engine oils.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 are formulated with ISOSYN™ base stocks, a shear-stable viscosity index improver, and contain detergent, dispersant, wear control, antioxidant, corrosion inhibitor, and foam suppressant additives.
The high viscosity index of Chevron Supreme Motor Oils ensures low viscosities at low temperatures for easy cold starting and rapid warmup and high viscosities at high temperatures for fuel economy, oil economy, and effective protective films for engine parts.
Their antiwear additives provide excellent wear protection of critical engine parts.
A high level of dispersancy in Chevron Supreme Motor Oils protects against deposit and sludge formation in stop-and-go driving and sustained high temperature operation, and protects against corrosion.
Their excellent high temperature oxidation stability prevents viscosity increase and oil gelling in the crankcase. They keep PCV systems clean to maintain smooth engine performance.
Applications
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils are recommended for all four-stroke gasoline engines used in passenger cars, light trucks, powerboats, motorcycles, and other mobile and stationary equipment. They are excellent for high-revving engines in small cars and light trucks. All grades were specially formulated for use in turbocharged engines.
SAE 5W-20 provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance. It is specifically designed to meet the demanding requirements of both Ford and Honda 2001 model year vehicles.
SAE 5W-30 is recommended for use at very low temperatures involving cold starting. Late model four- and small six-cylinder gasoline and engines are preferred users of the SAE 5W-30.
SAE 10W-30 is recommended for larger 6-cylinder and V-8 engines.
SAE 10W-40 is still a very popular viscosity grade in warmer climates even though it is not recommended for late model GM and Chrysler engines.
SAE 20W-50 is especially recommended for use in high temperature and heavy duty operations such as hauling heavy trailers at high speeds for long periods of time. It is also recommended for high performance engines used in racing and rallying.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oil SAE 40 is recommended for passenger car and light truck diesel engines operating in heavy duty service.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils SAE 30 and 40 are recommended for passenger car and light truck diesel engines operating in heavy duty service. They perform very satisfactorily in small refrigeration or air-conditioning engines on trucks and buses where oxidation stability and high temperature control are of primary importance. They are also recommended for use in small four-stroke engines in lawn mowers, garden tractors, and snow blowers.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils meet
API Service Categories
SL (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50, 30)
SJ, SH1, SG1
CF-2, CF (SAE 40)
Energy Conserving for API SL (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30)
ILSAC GF-3 (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30)
manufacturers' performance
some of the oils on this board "Paint" the metal
your not going to hear engine noise or see dirty oil or oil filter because the third party abrasives are trapped under the "Painting" of your engine metal, metal sweats and since it is trapped you get corrosion and contaminants. Oil companys measure test results from clean engines.
That is not your engine, Oil Additives work in race cars because the engine is brand new and chemistry can paint metal not third party abrasives and after 500 miles it is torn down. This not your engine.Want a quick test? take out your oil dip stick wipe it off and look at the discoloration, reasonable indicator of the wear patterns in your engine caused by rotating parts
covered in hardened debris and starved for oil, one oil (nameless) claims to clean your engine, think it might if i can drive it 300,000 miles,there chemistry in there oil might clean it up.Then again what is happening in the meantime?
That's a lot of quarts of oil sold before the money is recouped.
breath
breath again
want to try that again?
metal breathes?
lubrication (breathe is a chemist term re: ferrous metal )Thanks for bringing it to my attention. It does not matter what type of oil or oil filter you use, engine dirt third party contaminants don't drain out off of engine metal.
And some oil's "Paint the engine metal to get rid of heat, problem is is does not disburse evenly.
that when metal wear patterns start. Randy go look at your oil dip stick if it looks clean & new your home free. If not check out cleaning your engine
ferrous metal refers to iron (Fe on the periodic table), still don't know what you refer to metal breathing though.
As far as oils "painting metals"?....I have heard of "putting a good cure to it"...all my skillets will tell you about that...
You are using some terms that we are not used to hearing here ,,,,and I think that several of us have some pretty extensive experience with engines/oils....we've heard lots of different "big words" in other words...
Want to try explaining that one again?
What is your take on it?
a) MaxLife will reduce consumption
and
b) Is it good for extended drains like synthetics are? I'm looking to do at least a 5K drain interval for my mostly-city driving
combo oil also. Max Life has chlorinated parrafin technology in its additive package look out valve seals, this is strong friction reduction chemistry
and not to be taken lightly, under substained load backend chemistry can seperate, here comes corrosion on engine parts.
I worked for a bus company and our manager bought into the theory that dirty is better
a complete disaster
we run detroits with a turbo on top of a blower
even with a suction detector to monitor the filter they were collapsing and blowing engines
this type of set up would be the extreme but if a filter gets more effecent as it gets dirtier that it will race faster and faster to it's death how will you know when to replace it
if the flow is affected the suction it creates will start to draw oil thru the rings possible contaminating the ring groves
Mark
I have never had any mileage reduction issues over the last several years enough to even notice.
see ya
Rando
You could fortify it with STP brand engine leak stop, and/or the STP or other brand of oil consumption reducer, etc., until you get good results or a need to move on to another avenue.
It does reduce the mileage slightly, but seems to run quieter. I use a 50% conventional and Syn blend now and really like the performance.
The shop where I take my cars regularly has both a Mazda specialist, and a Subaru one. The Subaru mechanic recommends the heavier oil, and the Mazda one insists on 5W-30 for that engine in all conditions. The manual recommends 10W-30 for summer.
I can't remember the test name, but the European vehicles have a durability test that can only be met by the heavier 10W-40 or 5W-40 oils. Valvoline's new SL bottle says that they meet this tough standard. With the decreaased volitility of the SL, the combination may reduce consumption.
They also said that the 5W-20 is a very durable oil. It has 65% hydrocracked base III stocks.
The tech also told me a story about a 20W-50 put in a Ford truck where 5W-20 was recommended. It blew off the oil filter and ruined the engine. They have also had complaints with the 10W-30 causing similar problems. They advised sticking with the recommended weights on these because of close engine tolerances.
Perhapa the API deserves what it gets it it cannot be consumer oriented and must side with auto manufacturers and the gov to secure funding. No one will care if the oil is API certified
Although we do manufacture Super Tech for Wal-Mart, it is not
a relabeled version on either products. I would be happy to send
you a product data sheet. Please submit your name and address.
Thank you.
When I get the datasheets, I'll post. Maybe it's Wolfs Head PZ/QS's third brand.
Whose answer? Pennzoil's or Quaker's State's? Are they part of the same company?
Makes me glad I recently spend a hundred bucks and got an intake system cleaning. Our area is also under strict emissions standards, and after the treatments the hydrocarbons were .01 and CO was no higher than 1.5 when the standard is 220. It was good before, but now I have another reason to be glad I cleaned up the engine.
My fear about the chlorinated parafins is that they are extremely corrosive. Now that they are also damaging to the air I will do my best to avoid them. Thanks for the info.
In addition to the oils, PZQS markets Blue Coral®, Slick 50®, Westley's®, Black Magic®, Fix-A-Flat®, Gumout®, Outlaw®,and Snap®. My suspicion is that in addition to Wal-Mart, they along with Ashland Petroleum make a ton of private label oils.
Anyway this will be an opportunity to see whether the thesis that private labels are inferior is true.
Here's their branded datasheets:
http://www.pzlqs.com/techdata/l7_prodsheet_fs.htm
20w/50 oil is usually very good oil and would handle heat better than the STP would. Over the years I've used plenty of 20w/50, just go a little thinner during the dead of winter, I have used it year round when I lived in Florida,
I have never tried any 0w/40 or 15w/50 so I can't vouch for them, see ya
Rando