Every book I have seen only recommends 5w/30 if starting temp is below 0 deg F, they recommend 10w/30 if starting temp is above that. They also say that if neither 5w or 10w/30 is available that you should use straight 30wt oil if temp is above 40 deg f,,,,sounds like the main effort is to keep the oil at 30wt while driving and either 5 or 10 at startup. I think most everyone here disagrees with me on using thicker oil on a vehicle but I have been doing it for years and I intend to keep doing it. I start swapping out thicker oil at 50k miles on my vehicles,,,the mfgr is worried more about some extra mpg rather than extra engine life,,and summers get HOT around here. You should do as you believe to be best for your driving circumstances, I believe in using thicker than 10w/30 oil, it seems the majority of folks use either 5w or 10w/30...either way definitely follow the mfgr recommendations while under warranty, after that, it's up to me to make it last not them any more. see y'all in a bit Rando
If engine running well there seems to be no evidence that switching to a heavier weight oil early on (50000 miles0 will prolong the engine life. Many many drivers have gone 200,000 plus using the same weight as they started with
with the first (actually only) engine I ever used 10w/30 exclusively on. Probably a fluke, but that is what happened. I have always used normal petroleum 20w/50 or 10w/40 on every vehicle I have ever owned besides that one and they all have gone high mileage with no problems and no oil burning,,,works for me. see ya Rando
I don't think switching to a slightly heavier weight is a big deal. At operating temp, a 5W30 and a 10W30 should be at amount the same thickness (until the 5W begins to break down after a couple thousand miles). The 5W30 will flow better at start-up, however. But, I know an engineer that worked in the oil industry and he uses nothing but 10W30 dino year 'round ... and he lives in northern Jersey. Go figure.
I use Red Line 5W30 in my Honda that has over 117,000 miles on the odometer and my car's oil consumption is so low that I don't need to add any between 7,000 mile oil intervals.
As for Marvel Mystery Oil, I used to love this stuff ... in the gas tank of carbureted engines. I never bothered to use it in the crankcase. And with today's ultra-thin oils widely available, I see no point to trying. It was originally designed to thin out straight 30 for winter use ... before multi-vis oils were available.
But, I simply don't trust MMO in today's fuel-injected cars.
I used to use a few ounces this in my '86 Escort GT. When I did, my mileage jumped a couple percent and my oil consumption went from low to just about ZERO. I've just been leery about using it in any injected vehicle since, though.
I ordered the minimum 4 pints of #132 from Schaeffers on Friday. It cost $7 for UPS shipping to the Detroit area and is supposed to be here by Thursday or Friday. I'll let you know how it goes.
I'm anxious to have you share your upcoming experience! From following the info trail, I have ascertained that 10W-30 is the "heaviest" oil that can be classified SL. Catch this, gents: I bought a case of Formula Shell today that is labelled as SL, and the viscosity is 20W-50.
Can you tell me anything about using GL5 in a manual transmission? My owners manual says to use GL5, but I've heard there are some GL5s that could corrode synchros in the transmission. I am using Valvoline synpower GL5 now.
Clean engines and clean positive crankcase ventilation systems resulting from minimal deposit formation under heavy load and stop-and-go driving conditions.
Exceeds warranty requirements of car and light truck manufacturers relying on an API SL motor oil.
Features
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils are premium quality automotive engine oils.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 are formulated with ISOSYN™ base stocks, a shear-stable viscosity index improver, and contain detergent, dispersant, wear control, antioxidant, corrosion inhibitor, and foam suppressant additives.
The high viscosity index of Chevron Supreme Motor Oils ensures low viscosities at low temperatures for easy cold starting and rapid warmup and high viscosities at high temperatures for fuel economy, oil economy, and effective protective films for engine parts.
Their antiwear additives provide excellent wear protection of critical engine parts.
A high level of dispersancy in Chevron Supreme Motor Oils protects against deposit and sludge formation in stop-and-go driving and sustained high temperature operation, and protects against corrosion.
Their excellent high temperature oxidation stability prevents viscosity increase and oil gelling in the crankcase. They keep PCV systems clean to maintain smooth engine performance.
Applications
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils are recommended for all four-stroke gasoline engines used in passenger cars, light trucks, powerboats, motorcycles, and other mobile and stationary equipment. They are excellent for high-revving engines in small cars and light trucks. All grades were specially formulated for use in turbocharged engines.
SAE 5W-20 provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance. It is specifically designed to meet the demanding requirements of both Ford and Honda 2001 model year vehicles.
SAE 5W-30 is recommended for use at very low temperatures involving cold starting. Late model four- and small six-cylinder gasoline and engines are preferred users of the SAE 5W-30.
SAE 10W-30 is recommended for larger 6-cylinder and V-8 engines.
SAE 10W-40 is still a very popular viscosity grade in warmer climates even though it is not recommended for late model GM and Chrysler engines.
SAE 20W-50 is especially recommended for use in high temperature and heavy duty operations such as hauling heavy trailers at high speeds for long periods of time. It is also recommended for high performance engines used in racing and rallying.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oil SAE 40 is recommended for passenger car and light truck diesel engines operating in heavy duty service.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils SAE 30 and 40 are recommended for passenger car and light truck diesel engines operating in heavy duty service. They perform very satisfactorily in small refrigeration or air-conditioning engines on trucks and buses where oxidation stability and high temperature control are of primary importance. They are also recommended for use in small four-stroke engines in lawn mowers, garden tractors, and snow blowers.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils meet
API Service Categories SL (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50, 30) SJ, SH1, SG1 CF-2, CF (SAE 40) Energy Conserving for API SL (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30)
How many of you really think oil ( any oil cleans metal ? )or that some expensive oil filter is going to keep your engine clean ? Synthetic or Natural are designed to lay a "Film" of oil over clean metal, not paint it . Metal has to breathe some of the oils on this board "Paint" the metal your not going to hear engine noise or see dirty oil or oil filter because the third party abrasives are trapped under the "Painting" of your engine metal, metal sweats and since it is trapped you get corrosion and contaminants. Oil companys measure test results from clean engines. That is not your engine, Oil Additives work in race cars because the engine is brand new and chemistry can paint metal not third party abrasives and after 500 miles it is torn down. This not your engine.Want a quick test? take out your oil dip stick wipe it off and look at the discoloration, reasonable indicator of the wear patterns in your engine caused by rotating parts covered in hardened debris and starved for oil, one oil (nameless) claims to clean your engine, think it might if i can drive it 300,000 miles,there chemistry in there oil might clean it up.Then again what is happening in the meantime?
This means that the Valvoline 10W-40 is completely certified. The API allows a donut with the SL and GF-3 classification when the rigorous tests required have been passed. According to another oil company tech, these tests cost over 2 million dollars for complete certification, and it must be done separately for each grade of oil.
That's a lot of quarts of oil sold before the money is recouped.
Dissipate engine heat evenly is the goal of lubrication (breathe is a chemist term re: ferrous metal )Thanks for bringing it to my attention. It does not matter what type of oil or oil filter you use, engine dirt third party contaminants don't drain out off of engine metal. And some oil's "Paint the engine metal to get rid of heat, problem is is does not disburse evenly. that when metal wear patterns start. Randy go look at your oil dip stick if it looks clean & new your home free. If not check out cleaning your engine
Don't think I have ever had one that didn't look new though. ferrous metal refers to iron (Fe on the periodic table), still don't know what you refer to metal breathing though. As far as oils "painting metals"?....I have heard of "putting a good cure to it"...all my skillets will tell you about that... You are using some terms that we are not used to hearing here ,,,,and I think that several of us have some pretty extensive experience with engines/oils....we've heard lots of different "big words" in other words... Want to try explaining that one again?
Painting the metal in industry oil lubricated rotating parts is term for using oil with polymer make up. Purpose being to reduce temperature, unfortunately with coating the rotating parts with this type oil it traps all the debris and while reducing heat it causes premature metal wear.(metal can't breathe) while my terminology may not equate to car talk the intent is to find out why so many people think oil or a super filter is going to help them when there internal parts are filthy.A gear box on a web offset 16 unit press costs about $50,000.00 Maintenancemen are quite knowledgable and they have to reduce bulk oil costs not increase cost of oil for benefits that exist only in a lab.Thank you for your courtesy.
The individual that is speaking of filthy interior parts may have a motive in doing so, is this the same "fmiller" that is the co inventor of a modified engine oil additive that supposedly cleans engines and perhaps is leading us on to purchase his product in the future. If no, I apologize, if yes, perhaps it is time to come clean so to speak and move on!
While ago a Pennzoil TV ad starring Bret Favre showing several oil pans which have run on various engine oil. Pennzoil is the one with most clean pan with least sludge/deposit.
As I recollect, Shell 20W-50 meets all the standards for SL designation, but doesn't get the starburst seal from API on the basis of not being a fuel conserving oil. I can't check it out right now, for a definitive answer.
After hearing rave reviews from everyone on Valvoline Maxlife oil, I'm considering switching to in on my F-150 truck w/129,000 miles. I'm currently using Mobil 1 (I bought the truck at 125,000 and God only knows what was in it before that) and it burns a little more than a quart per 1000 miles. I'm wondering if:
a) MaxLife will reduce consumption
and
b) Is it good for extended drains like synthetics are? I'm looking to do at least a 5K drain interval for my mostly-city driving
I think your situation is the perfect application for non-syn oil. I really can't speak for the quality of the oil, but with that consumption you are doing an oil change every 5K just by adding. I would think you could even go longer than the 5K even with city driving.
Certainly worth a shot with nothing to lose but don't have high expectations. As to keeping the 5k change interval, with this dino probably not and the city driving would appear to worsen the situation, but see what it looks like at 3000. How about the Mobil 1 higher weight oils to see if they reduce consumption?
Development criteria was market a multi weight oil for lubricity and have a metal cleaner additive in the complex additive package. During actual road tests lubricity disappeared at substained speeds of 85 mpg. Mobil pulled there combo oil also. Max Life has chlorinated parrafin technology in its additive package look out valve seals, this is strong friction reduction chemistry and not to be taken lightly, under substained load backend chemistry can seperate, here comes corrosion on engine parts.
the problem with dirty air filters is you don't know when they go bad I worked for a bus company and our manager bought into the theory that dirty is better a complete disaster we run detroits with a turbo on top of a blower even with a suction detector to monitor the filter they were collapsing and blowing engines this type of set up would be the extreme but if a filter gets more effecent as it gets dirtier that it will race faster and faster to it's death how will you know when to replace it if the flow is affected the suction it creates will start to draw oil thru the rings possible contaminating the ring groves
I have also considered a heavier weight oil, but don't want to worsen the already-bad fuel economy of my truck. I haven't counted that out just yet, however. I'm also thinking I will give the new SuperSyn a whirl and see if there is any difference there since they are now advertising that the 10W30 (the weight I am currently using) is for "higher mileage vehicles." I am going to record anything I do w/an oil analysis.
Depending on the vehicle, it may surprise you how little difference (if any noticeable) there will be using thicker oil..especially on a vehicle with a few miles on it. I have never had any mileage reduction issues over the last several years enough to even notice. see ya Rando
Why not try some 20W-50 mineral based? You might want to avoid "Racing" oil for longevity purposes, but that leaves brands like Shell 20W-50 ready to go for you. You could fortify it with STP brand engine leak stop, and/or the STP or other brand of oil consumption reducer, etc., until you get good results or a need to move on to another avenue.
You are correct concerning the starburst, energy conserving symbol. No oil above 30 has it. I've run a 40 weight oil in my 4 banger Subaru since last November.
It does reduce the mileage slightly, but seems to run quieter. I use a 50% conventional and Syn blend now and really like the performance.
The shop where I take my cars regularly has both a Mazda specialist, and a Subaru one. The Subaru mechanic recommends the heavier oil, and the Mazda one insists on 5W-30 for that engine in all conditions. The manual recommends 10W-30 for summer.
I can't remember the test name, but the European vehicles have a durability test that can only be met by the heavier 10W-40 or 5W-40 oils. Valvoline's new SL bottle says that they meet this tough standard. With the decreaased volitility of the SL, the combination may reduce consumption.
I asked Valvoline about the chlorinated parafins and the immediate answer was NO. Maxlife has Moly to aid in barrier protection, and a large dose of Base III stocks to aid in the quick flow on cold weather starts.
They also said that the 5W-20 is a very durable oil. It has 65% hydrocracked base III stocks.
The tech also told me a story about a 20W-50 put in a Ford truck where 5W-20 was recommended. It blew off the oil filter and ruined the engine. They have also had complaints with the 10W-30 causing similar problems. They advised sticking with the recommended weights on these because of close engine tolerances.
Having just returned from a trip to the local Advance Auto Parts Store I noted how many oils on the shelf did not have the API certifications or if the logo was on the bottle the words CERTIFIED were missing. All of the higher mileage oils and a few others as well. I think the wave of the future for those that want higher protection in lieu of mpg or cat worries will go the route of these higher wear additive oils and forget about API certification.
Perhapa the API deserves what it gets it it cannot be consumer oriented and must side with auto manufacturers and the gov to secure funding. No one will care if the oil is API certified
Valvoline just made the switch from chlorinated parafins to "Moly" then no suprise as EPA has CP on hit list, your right.Did you see CNN Front Page Today ? about tailpipe emissions? and 10 worse cities to live in for people with lung problems? If your going to use friction reducing additives, be responsible as those hydrocarbons coming out of your exhaust don't evaporate.Look at moly type oil from Schaeffers
On another forum I read that Wal-Mart (SuperTech) oil was relabeled Pennzoil. I had repeatedly been told Quaker State by store management. Here is their answer...
Although we do manufacture Super Tech for Wal-Mart, it is not a relabeled version on either products. I would be happy to send you a product data sheet. Please submit your name and address. Thank you.
When I get the datasheets, I'll post. Maybe it's Wolfs Head PZ/QS's third brand.
Not a fun article. No wonder California is working so hard to reduce emissions. It's a real problem for them. Sacramento, who would have thought.
Makes me glad I recently spend a hundred bucks and got an intake system cleaning. Our area is also under strict emissions standards, and after the treatments the hydrocarbons were .01 and CO was no higher than 1.5 when the standard is 220. It was good before, but now I have another reason to be glad I cleaned up the engine.
My fear about the chlorinated parafins is that they are extremely corrosive. Now that they are also damaging to the air I will do my best to avoid them. Thanks for the info.
Have merged their technical e-mail support. Their e-mail domain, although with no web page, is pzqs.com. Pennzoil's web page has tech. bulletins for Pennzoil, Quaker State and Wolf's Head. QS's web page contains only info. on Quaker State.
In addition to the oils, PZQS markets Blue Coral®, Slick 50®, Westley's®, Black Magic®, Fix-A-Flat®, Gumout®, Outlaw®,and Snap®. My suspicion is that in addition to Wal-Mart, they along with Ashland Petroleum make a ton of private label oils.
Anyway this will be an opportunity to see whether the thesis that private labels are inferior is true.
mrdetailer you can use auto-rx to maintain your engine internal cleanliness and pass emissions. Go to www.auto-rx.com and select emissions testing. I use it in 2 gassers and a Ford Power Stroke diesel engine with excellent results. A big plus is that it is not a harsh solvent cleaner and doesn't require any special shipping as it is a non-hazardous material. Also when I first used it I liked the money back warranty if it didn't work, but it did and I have purchased more since.
summer's coming...if the vehicle has any possible overheating issues the STP may not be the way to go, just go with some thicker oil. I use STP in a 182k vehicle but it has no overheating issues . 20w/50 oil is usually very good oil and would handle heat better than the STP would. Over the years I've used plenty of 20w/50, just go a little thinner during the dead of winter, I have used it year round when I lived in Florida, I have never tried any 0w/40 or 15w/50 so I can't vouch for them, see ya Rando
malachy72-I am a consumer just like you. I don't have any interest or sell any product that I talk about. I do happen to like Amsoil Series 3000 and 2000 oils also. I have a great interest in bypass filters, Frantz, Oil Guard, Gulf Coast, Filtration Solutions but they aren't MY products. They are products that I have studied/tested in a lab and personal use, bypass filters not the oil. Just because I like a product and have a personal opinion on it I would ask that you respect it just as I respect your opinions. That is what these boards are about, an exchange of opinions. And to disagree is part of this exchange, insults aren't recommended or desired.
Comments
I think most everyone here disagrees with me on using thicker oil on a vehicle but I have been doing it for years and I intend to keep doing it. I start swapping out thicker oil at 50k miles on my vehicles,,,the mfgr is worried more about some extra mpg rather than extra engine life,,and summers get HOT around here.
You should do as you believe to be best for your driving circumstances, I believe in using thicker than 10w/30 oil, it seems the majority of folks use either 5w or 10w/30...either way definitely follow the mfgr recommendations while under warranty, after that, it's up to me to make it last not them any more.
see y'all in a bit
Rando
But, whatever you feel comfotable with
see ya
Rando
I use Red Line 5W30 in my Honda that has over 117,000 miles on the odometer and my car's oil consumption is so low that I don't need to add any between 7,000 mile oil intervals.
As for Marvel Mystery Oil, I used to love this stuff ... in the gas tank of carbureted engines. I never bothered to use it in the crankcase. And with today's ultra-thin oils widely available, I see no point to trying. It was originally designed to thin out straight 30 for winter use ... before multi-vis oils were available.
But, I simply don't trust MMO in today's fuel-injected cars.
I used to use a few ounces this in my '86 Escort GT. When I did, my mileage jumped a couple percent and my oil consumption went from low to just about ZERO. I've just been leery about using it in any injected vehicle since, though.
--- Bror Jace
From following the info trail, I have ascertained that 10W-30 is the "heaviest" oil that can be classified SL. Catch this, gents: I bought a case of Formula Shell today that is labelled as SL, and the viscosity is 20W-50.
TB
Protection against thermal breakdown
Clean engines and clean positive crankcase ventilation systems resulting from minimal deposit formation under heavy load and stop-and-go driving conditions.
Exceeds warranty requirements of car and light truck manufacturers relying on an API SL motor oil.
Features
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils are premium quality automotive engine oils.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 are formulated with ISOSYN™ base stocks, a shear-stable viscosity index improver, and contain detergent, dispersant, wear control, antioxidant, corrosion inhibitor, and foam suppressant additives.
The high viscosity index of Chevron Supreme Motor Oils ensures low viscosities at low temperatures for easy cold starting and rapid warmup and high viscosities at high temperatures for fuel economy, oil economy, and effective protective films for engine parts.
Their antiwear additives provide excellent wear protection of critical engine parts.
A high level of dispersancy in Chevron Supreme Motor Oils protects against deposit and sludge formation in stop-and-go driving and sustained high temperature operation, and protects against corrosion.
Their excellent high temperature oxidation stability prevents viscosity increase and oil gelling in the crankcase. They keep PCV systems clean to maintain smooth engine performance.
Applications
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils are recommended for all four-stroke gasoline engines used in passenger cars, light trucks, powerboats, motorcycles, and other mobile and stationary equipment. They are excellent for high-revving engines in small cars and light trucks. All grades were specially formulated for use in turbocharged engines.
SAE 5W-20 provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance. It is specifically designed to meet the demanding requirements of both Ford and Honda 2001 model year vehicles.
SAE 5W-30 is recommended for use at very low temperatures involving cold starting. Late model four- and small six-cylinder gasoline and engines are preferred users of the SAE 5W-30.
SAE 10W-30 is recommended for larger 6-cylinder and V-8 engines.
SAE 10W-40 is still a very popular viscosity grade in warmer climates even though it is not recommended for late model GM and Chrysler engines.
SAE 20W-50 is especially recommended for use in high temperature and heavy duty operations such as hauling heavy trailers at high speeds for long periods of time. It is also recommended for high performance engines used in racing and rallying.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oil SAE 40 is recommended for passenger car and light truck diesel engines operating in heavy duty service.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils SAE 30 and 40 are recommended for passenger car and light truck diesel engines operating in heavy duty service. They perform very satisfactorily in small refrigeration or air-conditioning engines on trucks and buses where oxidation stability and high temperature control are of primary importance. They are also recommended for use in small four-stroke engines in lawn mowers, garden tractors, and snow blowers.
Chevron Supreme Motor Oils meet
API Service Categories
SL (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50, 30)
SJ, SH1, SG1
CF-2, CF (SAE 40)
Energy Conserving for API SL (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30)
ILSAC GF-3 (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30)
manufacturers' performance
some of the oils on this board "Paint" the metal
your not going to hear engine noise or see dirty oil or oil filter because the third party abrasives are trapped under the "Painting" of your engine metal, metal sweats and since it is trapped you get corrosion and contaminants. Oil companys measure test results from clean engines.
That is not your engine, Oil Additives work in race cars because the engine is brand new and chemistry can paint metal not third party abrasives and after 500 miles it is torn down. This not your engine.Want a quick test? take out your oil dip stick wipe it off and look at the discoloration, reasonable indicator of the wear patterns in your engine caused by rotating parts
covered in hardened debris and starved for oil, one oil (nameless) claims to clean your engine, think it might if i can drive it 300,000 miles,there chemistry in there oil might clean it up.Then again what is happening in the meantime?
That's a lot of quarts of oil sold before the money is recouped.
breath
breath again
want to try that again?
metal breathes?
lubrication (breathe is a chemist term re: ferrous metal )Thanks for bringing it to my attention. It does not matter what type of oil or oil filter you use, engine dirt third party contaminants don't drain out off of engine metal.
And some oil's "Paint the engine metal to get rid of heat, problem is is does not disburse evenly.
that when metal wear patterns start. Randy go look at your oil dip stick if it looks clean & new your home free. If not check out cleaning your engine
ferrous metal refers to iron (Fe on the periodic table), still don't know what you refer to metal breathing though.
As far as oils "painting metals"?....I have heard of "putting a good cure to it"...all my skillets will tell you about that...
You are using some terms that we are not used to hearing here ,,,,and I think that several of us have some pretty extensive experience with engines/oils....we've heard lots of different "big words" in other words...
Want to try explaining that one again?
What is your take on it?
a) MaxLife will reduce consumption
and
b) Is it good for extended drains like synthetics are? I'm looking to do at least a 5K drain interval for my mostly-city driving
combo oil also. Max Life has chlorinated parrafin technology in its additive package look out valve seals, this is strong friction reduction chemistry
and not to be taken lightly, under substained load backend chemistry can seperate, here comes corrosion on engine parts.
I worked for a bus company and our manager bought into the theory that dirty is better
a complete disaster
we run detroits with a turbo on top of a blower
even with a suction detector to monitor the filter they were collapsing and blowing engines
this type of set up would be the extreme but if a filter gets more effecent as it gets dirtier that it will race faster and faster to it's death how will you know when to replace it
if the flow is affected the suction it creates will start to draw oil thru the rings possible contaminating the ring groves
Mark
I have never had any mileage reduction issues over the last several years enough to even notice.
see ya
Rando
You could fortify it with STP brand engine leak stop, and/or the STP or other brand of oil consumption reducer, etc., until you get good results or a need to move on to another avenue.
It does reduce the mileage slightly, but seems to run quieter. I use a 50% conventional and Syn blend now and really like the performance.
The shop where I take my cars regularly has both a Mazda specialist, and a Subaru one. The Subaru mechanic recommends the heavier oil, and the Mazda one insists on 5W-30 for that engine in all conditions. The manual recommends 10W-30 for summer.
I can't remember the test name, but the European vehicles have a durability test that can only be met by the heavier 10W-40 or 5W-40 oils. Valvoline's new SL bottle says that they meet this tough standard. With the decreaased volitility of the SL, the combination may reduce consumption.
They also said that the 5W-20 is a very durable oil. It has 65% hydrocracked base III stocks.
The tech also told me a story about a 20W-50 put in a Ford truck where 5W-20 was recommended. It blew off the oil filter and ruined the engine. They have also had complaints with the 10W-30 causing similar problems. They advised sticking with the recommended weights on these because of close engine tolerances.
Perhapa the API deserves what it gets it it cannot be consumer oriented and must side with auto manufacturers and the gov to secure funding. No one will care if the oil is API certified
Although we do manufacture Super Tech for Wal-Mart, it is not
a relabeled version on either products. I would be happy to send
you a product data sheet. Please submit your name and address.
Thank you.
When I get the datasheets, I'll post. Maybe it's Wolfs Head PZ/QS's third brand.
Whose answer? Pennzoil's or Quaker's State's? Are they part of the same company?
Makes me glad I recently spend a hundred bucks and got an intake system cleaning. Our area is also under strict emissions standards, and after the treatments the hydrocarbons were .01 and CO was no higher than 1.5 when the standard is 220. It was good before, but now I have another reason to be glad I cleaned up the engine.
My fear about the chlorinated parafins is that they are extremely corrosive. Now that they are also damaging to the air I will do my best to avoid them. Thanks for the info.
In addition to the oils, PZQS markets Blue Coral®, Slick 50®, Westley's®, Black Magic®, Fix-A-Flat®, Gumout®, Outlaw®,and Snap®. My suspicion is that in addition to Wal-Mart, they along with Ashland Petroleum make a ton of private label oils.
Anyway this will be an opportunity to see whether the thesis that private labels are inferior is true.
Here's their branded datasheets:
http://www.pzlqs.com/techdata/l7_prodsheet_fs.htm
20w/50 oil is usually very good oil and would handle heat better than the STP would. Over the years I've used plenty of 20w/50, just go a little thinner during the dead of winter, I have used it year round when I lived in Florida,
I have never tried any 0w/40 or 15w/50 so I can't vouch for them, see ya
Rando