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Fleetwood:I agree.
csandste:But what will the synths be worth under that standard?Maybe we need to buy cases of SL.Or,we'll be putting in additives!
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/baseoils/faq_main.shtml
Good find gye.
"Why is VI important?
Viscosity Index (VI) measures the resistance of an oil to viscosity change as temperature changes. The higher the VI, the more stable the viscosity over a wide temperature range. In other words, the higher the VI, the less an oil will thicken as it gets cold and the less it will thin out at higher temperatures—providing better lubricant performance at both temperature extremes. ChevronTexaco UCBOs have very high VIs."
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/baseoils/isodewax.shtml
I'm at work now, and left my Wal-Mart datasheets at home in my calendar. If I haven't posted by Monday, remind me and I'll dig it out.
The point is that it is a good thing to use more oil and less viscosity improver any time you can, the visc. improvers are long chain polymers that don't handle temp stress as well as oil does,
They do help keep the oil from thinning out as much as they would without the help though, problem is they just take a beating doing it, so they break down and its time for the 7 beers oil change (remember that one?)
Viscosity index is a good thing to use in comparing oils, but it is meaningless unless you are comfortable with the actual viscosity VALUES at the temps that you are concerned with. Having a really thin oil at cold starting temps may be a good thing during a cold winter, but may not protect much when that motor cranks up in the summer heat.
see y'all
Rando
Should the next questions be: Are there other SL oils that are "synthetic qualified"? What about Havoline (Chevron/Texaco)? Etc.? >:oÞ
Super Tech SAE Grade(SJ) 5W30 10W30 10W40 20W50
API Gravity 30.7 30.3 31.3 27.9
Viscosity cSt 40C 67.0 73.2 104.0 170.5
Viscosity cSt 100C 10.7 11.0 15.2 19.4
Visc@100F SUS 342.0 376.0 532.0 887.0
Visc@210F SUS 62.8 63.9 80.3 98.3
Visc. Index 155.0 140.0 152.0 121.0
Flash Point c (F) 207(405) 210(410) 221(430) 227(441)
Fire Point C(F) 221(430) 227(441) 232(450) 235(455)
Pour Point C(F) "-37(-35) "-34(-29) "-34(-30) "29(-20)
Viscosity cP, Max 3500@
"-cp Max, 4500 "-25(-13) "-20(4) "-20(-4) "-10(14)
Low Temp Pumping C(F) "-30(-22) "-25(-13) "-25(-13) "-15(-5)
Viscosity cP Max 30,000.0 30,000.0 30,000.0 30,000.0
Chevron 5w-30 is better in everyway than Pennzoil, I doubt even the new SuperTech SL will catch up with Chevron's hydroprocessed Group II+ oil.
With less than a $1.00 a quart, and spec. not far behind mobil1 SuperSyn, it's truly a winner.
Who has had a motor-oil related failure of an engine?I never have and heaven knows I've had enough cars/trucks!But I've lost transmissions on old vehicles.I've had suspension failures,and water-pumps,and injectors,and brake problems,etc.,etc.
I'd venture to wager that the "safest" way is to change oil frequently,regardless of oil type(for real-world driving).If one wants to spend $4-$7 a quart for a PAO,I can't say that is wrong,it's just not for me.
If others want to use long intervals,that's their choice.They are probably OK,too.Or use $10 filters that "may" clog early-on,that's their choice.Again,they are probably OK.
My view of the big picture is that we are in over-kill using $1.00 SL oil at 4,000 mile intervals.BUT,it seems a safe route.
We have all been looking at the physical properties of these oils. I know the only oils considered as "energy conserving" are the xw/30 oils (and the thinner 5w/20 too I suppose). What is the componant that is the friction reducer in these oils? Anybody know why they don't put it in any heavier oils? Anybody remember "Winn's friction prufe????" at least I think that is what it was called..I have not been able to find any "coefficient of friction" or "fanning friction factor" for engine oils,,,,anybody on here found that?
The friction proofing should be a major consideration because it is a major reason for using the thinner oils....GAS MILEAGE, but I can't find those numbers. Seems like it would be a major comparative value.
On the Chevron page, the viscosity of the 5w/20 is 49.2 at 40c and 8.6 at 100c,
the 5w/30 is 66 and 11 respectively, and the 10w/30 is 75 and 11 respectively.
See topic about the Fumoto Valve(probably a couple of pages back).
Also, the new Mobil-1 in big 5-quart bottles for $17.88. Standard 1-quart botles cost $4.54. Used to be $4.17 with the old TriSyn Mobil-1.
Fram reputation versus Japanese. I have 5 Fumotos on my cars.
No tools are needed to open the Fumoto drain; Fram have a matched "nipple" and hose, as with air pump for tires.
Fram is covered by a screw-on dust cap when not drained. For pictures, click http://www.fram.com/home/index.html go to Products, than to Accessories.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
The index is meaningless unless the actual viscosities at operating temps (starting temp and operating temps) are what you want for the conditions.
The 5w/20 and 5w/30 theoretically SHOULD have the same viscosity at low temp but according to the Chevron data sheets the 5w/20 is still thinner (less viscosity) than the 5w/30 at both 40c and 100c. I was only looking at the Chevron oil because I use Havoline and Chevron oil. You would have to find the values for other mfgrs if you use the others.
No two ways about it, 5w/20 is thin oil, and it thins out more at higher temps than the 5w/30 does, as the 20 implies that as well.
Remember the higher number just indicates that the oil does not thin out any more than that equivalent wt oil would at higher temps. It does NOT thicken up (or "improve") at higher temps.
---re-read post number 1564.---
and post 1573 shows the viscosity values that Chevron reports for the oil wts we are talking about.
Viscosity index indicates the amount of relative viscosity change as the oil heats up, the higher the index, the less change as the oil heats up.
A 10w/40 would have a higher index than 10w/30 would because it does not thin out as much. The actual viscosity value is what really matters.
Don't be so hung up on the viscosity index, if you want a high index oil just use some 5w/50, doesn't mean it is really what you want.
see ya.
Rando
Does it suck up from the torque convertor or the pan?
car: 99 mazda protege ES Auto.
ATF capacity 5 Quarts
I wonder if anyone knows how long an open bottle of engine oil can keeps its quality? I know that brake oil can't stay the same after being open due to moisture absorption but i am not sure about engine oil.
Thanks
engine oil is probably fine unless any water has been dripping directly in it,, and don't forget bugs, just pour it through a paper towel is what I would do, otherwise it is pretty stable stuff.
see ya
The only interesting statement I saw in the Penzoil brochures had to do with extended oil drains. While they recommended that consumers follow car manufacturers recommended intervals, they did say that they felt these would be changing to more extended durations in the near future. That was it. No justification, comment of further explanation, just the blanket prediction. Wierd!
BUT, if the Walmart price is cheap enough????
Unfortunately the new Bobistheoilguy page seems to be down at the moment so this is from memory..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
there is a poster over there (Johnny) who works for Pennzoil and is very familiar with the product history. SuperTech was made by a company in Shreveport which was taken over by Quaker State which was later merged into Pz/QS. This explains why the product is different. To quote from the Quaker State history section of the web page.
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/about/history.asp
"Among the important acquisitions was Specialty Oil Companies of Shreveport, Louisiana. This firm's broad product line included a wide range of industrial lubricants and a strong private label manufacturing capability. In addition, its distribution system greatly enhanced the overall Quaker State system. Specialty Environmental Services greatly enhanced Quaker State's "green" capabilities, particularly in the field of waste oil collection and recycling. These services not only assist Q Lube operations, but they also enable the newly formed Fleet, Commercial and Industrial (FCI) division to provide its customers with complete lubricant service."
Thus the dino product (which I use) really isn't Quaker State or Pennzoil in the most narrow sense. Not sure what the background is on SuperTech synthetic which could be a totally different product.
difference? in the two oils or if they were now the same (I think someone else on here also asked the same question recently..)
They told me that they were different, they could not legally sell the same thing under 2 names.
We all know that some major companies will sell base oils to other companies that will then add the additives themselves and rename the oil. I bet there is only a minor difference between the Chevron/Havoline oils, maybe even just minor amount of difference in concentration of the additives. The specifications of the Chevron and Texaco oils was exactly the same when I compared them the other day (all very good as far as I'm concerned).
see y'all
Rando