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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    hello,
    I will have to check and see if Preludes were included in that service bulletin. I dont think they were because I dont ever remember changing any.I know Civics and Accords were with VIN breaks and with condenser manufactures.I will try to call in tomorrow as I am not working but if not then I will check on Monday.As far as your water problem, all ac systems build up and release condensation(water)then drain out a hose to the outside of the car. If yours is getting on the inside floor then your drain hose is clogged and or the evaporator drain tube.If you can get under your car easy then on the right side, near the cross member there is a hose, blow air or stick a peice of stiff wire up into the hose and see if a big gush of water comes out. If you can't get under your car then on the right side under dash area, in back of the glove box sits the evaporator box(between the blower and the center heater box)on the bottom there should be a drain hose near the firewall.Have something to catch water with and remove the hose. Blow through the hose and stick a piece of wire up into the box to clear it. If it is clogged you will know it because it will flow out like a river..
    As for the radio if there was any kind of bulletin for it the warranty period for such a bulletin would have been 3year/36,000. They only offer the extended warranty bulletins for emission, safety, and enviromental reasons for the most part..
    Well I will get back to you soon, hopefully tomorrow.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Hello,
    The things to check would probably be the coil and the distributor.In the past I have saw several coils act that way.They usally are either damaged in the center by aftermarket distributor caps and or stressed to the caps. If it is not a Honda coil then it is probably bad for sure the aftermarket ones dont last as long or perform as good.Other than that the distributor itself could be starting to fail.The igniter is a possibility also we have saw them go bad but usally they fail all together causing the car to stall and not restart.If you arent using Honda tune up parts then I would start there and have the coil checked to see if it is an original.I know some don't believe me but Honda OEM parts are superior in their cars fo some reason. Including the spark plug wires, I know they are pricy but they work best..Good luck
  • seahwksseahwks Posts: 1
    Does anyone else out there have a problem with rattling either in the rear window paneling or moonroof paneling (only when panel is opened)???
    Please help! I have already taken mine in re: the rear rattling and they replaced the shelf, but never made a difference, they basically said "Well, you didn't buy a Ferrari." Now, I have this new prob. with my moonroof. The rattling gets on my nerves, but I'm afraid of having Honda mess w/ anything else. Any suggestions? Please Help!!!
  • mreillymreilly Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info.

    Those TSB #'s pertaining to the 95 Prelude A/C condenser are TSB#97-035 and #97-036, and #97-0014, and the brief description on the NHTSA website says "potential exists for problem with A/C condenser in specific geographic areas."

    I know it was probably a rare problem, because my Honda mechanic says I'm one of the only Preludes he has worked on.

    If there is a TSB about the problem I've had, what do I do about it? Since the repair was done last year (I keep ALL receipts, and the repairs were done by Honda trained technicians with Honda parts), am I out of luck?

    Thanks!
  • I have a 1987 Honda Civic DX (1.5 L 4 cyl FI) with 76K original miles; have had car since 46K mile mark (approx 5 yrs ago). Knew previous owner--unknown maintenance record, although all mileage was probably in town. Previous owner bought car new.

    Car has worked well without any problems; maintenance limited to oil/filter changes, brakes, CV joints, tires, battery, etc. In taking car to shop 1 to repair antifreeze leak and perform a radiator flush, I am told car has a blown head gasket. I take car to shop 2 (recommended by shop 1) for further advice/repair. I tell shop 2 to check carefully; I see what looks like an oily, dark-colored film on bottom (inside) of radiator cap. This has been there a long time and is not new. Car also leaks/burns oil--unknown source.

    Shop 2 calls 1-2 days later--says head gasket is blown, oil is getting in water, burning oil. Recommends at a minimum to replace rods, bearings, and rings for an approx cost of $1650. Advises "could get by with less, but may have more problems in the long run". How he made his analysis is unknown to me --i.e. I doubt he disassembled engine. I then take car to Honda dealership (shop 3) where with a $29.95 "diagnostic test" (coolant pressure test and block test) they tell me car engine is fine ("results are negative--no leaks found") other than needing a valve cover gasket. I inquired about a timing belt replacement as I had heard and seen posts about this being a problem if they break. Shop 3 (dealership) was not pushy and appeared honest, so I had valve cover gasket and timing belt replaced for $300 (later I read about it being a good idea to replace water pump at the same time)!

    My questions pertain to the disparity in advice between shop 2 and shop 3 (dealership). Why would one say so much work is needed and the other say all is ok? I realize a "diagnostic test" will not allow for a visual inspection of engine components--but should I take shop 3 at their word? I plan on taking car elsewhere and having a compression test done on the cylinders--will this provide me with good, usable info? Reluctantly, I drove the car today after shop did work yesterday. Engine sounds and runs ok--no misses, noises, etc (which it never had, anyway). Where do I go from here?

    I realize car is old and may be time to put it out to pasture, although in my mind this is still a "low mileage" car, used mostly for work commute (~24 miles round trip). Besides, a new or used car now is out of the question--this one needs to run another 2-3 years or so (the longer the better). I apologize for the long ramble. Any advice?
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    IT IS NOT TIME TO PUT THAT CAR OUT TO PASTURE! My brother has 245,000 miles on his 89 Civic and has done the head gasket only once.

    I'd go to dealer #4, tell them about 1, 2, & 3 and see what happens, if you are motivated. I'm sure others out there have something more to tell you, but I'd just get in that car and drive!
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Was the antifreeze leak repaired or do you still have a leak or loss of coolant? If the leaks have been fixed and the radiator is holding its fluid level then I would say that you have some more time before you have to worry about a head gasket.
    As for any of the other work, I wouldnt do any motor work until the car was overheating or blowing smoke like a bug sprayer. Small loses of oil over a period of time or a little smoke cold can be lived with by simply checking and adding oil.I would do as igloomaster sayed and get in the car and drive.Once the time comes for when you do need an engine I would suggest going with a take out or a complete rebuilt from a company. It is quicker and usally better warranty and not that much more money. I forget the company we deal with but I could find out if you got to that point.Anyhow sounds to me like the car is running fine so I would drive it for a while and see what happens.Good luck..
  • Thanks for the responses, igloomaster and auburn63. I repaired antifreeze leak (upper radiator hose); had coolant system flushed and refilled at dealership. No overheating, leaks, burning oil, or blowing smoke--in essence, engine purrs like a kitten. Priced complete rebuilts at $1500-2000 installed--one offers a 5 yr/50K warranty. If at some point it needs a rebuild, so be it. Based on what I've said above, your collective advice, and the fact that I'm only putting 6K-7K miles/yr on car, I'm gonna keep driving! Thanks again.
  • racer_x_9racer_x_9 Posts: 91
    I have a 94 Civic EX (manual). In the morning, especially when it is a little cooler out, it will not be especially smooth in 1st and 2nd gears (jerks like when your in a lower gear then you are supposed to be in).

    Once it warms up, it's ok. I know the slave clutch resevoir is leaking. I will have the master and slave replaced latter this week. Fluid in the cylinder was just filled for my 90,000 tune up, yet it still exhibits the same problem.

    Is this the sign of a new clutch needed? What is a ballpark figure for a new clutch (parts and labor).

    As always, thanks for taking time to expertly answer questions.
  • mreillymreilly Posts: 7
    Just wanted to let you know that the story of my 95 Prelude VTEC's AC Condenser has a happy ending!!

    I just received a copy of the TSB about my problem (from the NHTSA, for FREE!!!) and, of course, it described my problem EXACTLY, and my VIN # matched up. So I called that 1-800 # for Honda Consumer Affairs, gave them my VIN # & it turns out that Honda was replacing the condenser for FREE (!!!!) in some of the 94-95 Preludes.

    Since my repair was already done (within the 5-yr period), all I have to do is fax them a copy of the receipt & they'll reimburse me for the parts & a portion of the labor (as they see fit, since I didn't have the repair done at a dealer).

    The man on the phone was extremely nice and helpful. (While I was on the phone with him, he went over the list to see if any other TSB's pertained to my VIN #, and he updated my records, so that I can receive any future mailings from Honda. It's service like this that makes me keep going back to Hondas!)

    So, if you come across any other Preludes with bad AC Condensers, as long as the repair was within 5 years, Honda should help them!

    Another happy ending!! Thanks for your help!
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    what do you think of Honda automatic transmissions? i bought a 99 Civic automatic, my first Honda automatic. i think it operates smoothly and efficiently. i rather enjoy it in Boston traffic! however, a friend of mine had her entire automatic transmission replaced at 33,000 due to it being a lemon. any thoughts?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Basicly Honda automatics require getting used to at first then once you know what is normal they are great. As with any thing you have break downs but for the most part they are long lasting transmisions that require very little maintanace.Just drain and fill once evry 30,000 and thats it.I have been with Honda for a long time and they have improved over the years and are more tailored to the driver than ever by use of computer controls and grade logic.Hope I answered your question and good luck....
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    auburn63

    i appreciate it.

    this is my second civic hatchback. first one was a 1990 4 speed manual 1.5l. loved it.

    you were right - i needed to get used to the auto tranny but now it is great. sometimes i disagree with how long it will stay in first or second gear when i heavily accelerate; seems like it takes too long to upshift. so i quickly ease back on the gas which forces it to upshift and then depress the accelerator more. want to keep the the rpm's low while still pushing the vehicle within it's limits.
  • khanjikhanji Posts: 7
    I'm looking forward to buy a Used 96 Honda Civic
    EX, with only 24000 miles on it. That means 6,000
    miles a year. My concern is that since it's a low
    annual mileage car, so the service records shown by
    owner indicate that oil has been changed at the
    intervals varying from 5-8 months. I need to know
    from anyone out there that if the oil change
    interval is so long, how would that effect the
    engine life. Is there any special kind of check
    that a mechanic can perform to let me know what the
    exact situation of engine is. I'm planning to buy
    this car in a next couple of days so any early
    response would be appreciated as I know nothing
    about cars.
  • khanjikhanji Posts: 7
    I'm referred to this page by someone and he suggested me to ask AUBURN63 my question.
    In fact I've posted my question in #120.
    Is there anyway I can check how bad the engine of the 96 EX Civic is now because of delayed oil changes.
    Thanks to all in advance for any kind of help.....
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    The best way to check on the engine condition as far as how well it has been serviced is to have someone pull the valve cover. If the top half of the motor looks clean then chances are that it was taken care of.If it has a lot of sludge(dried up cakie oil clumps)then it has not.5-8 months between services on a car with low mileage is not bad that bad. I would suspect that it is clean.You could also try sneaking a peak through the oil add cap but that is not as good as taken the cover off.Other than that listen for noises on accel and while driving on turns.Make sure coolant is clean and trans fluid is clean. Good luck, if you want to know more then just write back
  • mother2mother2 Posts: 12
    My civic has a "rattling" noise every time I crank it up in the morning. The rattling goes away and then sometimes I hear it around 1st and 2nd gear. I need to hold on to this car until November but don't know if it will hold out til then. My civic has 207K miles now.

    Can anyone give me some info?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Sounds as if you have a bent or loose heat shield for youe exaust or an internal resenator rattle. Most likely just a bent or loose sheild.Have it checked out to verify.If you wanted to try something with a cold exaust system take and shake the tail pipe back and forth and see if you hear the noise. If so trace it down to where it is hitting. If not then you may have a loose shield on one of the pipes which you may need to get under the car for..Good luck
  • chulwoochulwoo Posts: 11
    I bought a 2000 VP last year and about to have a 7500 miles check. ( I live very close to where I work, hence low mileage)
    I noticed that it seems having a hard time when fuel level is low. As soon as I fill up the gas, it starts fine.

    Is there anyone with similar problem/observation? I guess I'll ask the mechanic at the dealer, but any response would be appreciated.
  • dudkadudka Posts: 451
    i used to see that when i was driving short dinstances, because the fuel ups were up to a month apart. i think it has to do with the fuel decomposing, while in the tank. not many peole know but gasoline has expiration dates. it is a very high energy compound that decomposes fairly rapidly, at least the high energy components do.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Along with what dudka has said is it also possible that you may be on a slight incline? If so the fuel could be going away from the fuel pump in the tank when it is low.If you park on level ground then maybe it is just slightly depresurizing.Just a thought or two..let us know what the tech says
  • chulwoochulwoo Posts: 11
    Thanks for the responses.

    I'm still a few days away from checkup, although I'm tempted to do ut sooner than later..
    I'll let you know what they said after that.
  • dudkadudka Posts: 451
    try refueling to half a tank. that way you will have to refuel more often. and see what happends.
  • Just wanted to thank auburn63 and spokane for the valuable advice given several months ago on a crazy dancing speedometer that I had. When my "check engine" light came on, I finally broke down and brought it to the shop. Sure enough, you guys were right on the money diagnosing it as a speed sensor problem. Luckily, that was the only problem and relatively cheap. Got it fixed, and a week later traded it in for an Acura (love those Honda products).

    Thanks again auburn63 and spokane. It was nice to be armed with your diagnosis and fun to see if the mechanic was going to try to rip me off (he didn't). Auburn63, looks like your gaining quite a following with all these referrals for your advice!
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Glad to be of some assistance to you and yeah I know what you mean with the referrals.I like it and all that but don't want to be a post hog either if you know what I mean.Everyones opinion and experiances are very important in diagnosing things as well.Anyhow glad things worked out for you,see ya.....
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I recently bought a '00 Honda Civic EX coupe. Dealer is incredibly bad. I live in Northern NJ and dealer was jamming add ons and extended warranty down my throat. Their prices for both were so exhorbitant I declined. The EX coupe is well equipped so you don't need many options. Salesperson was the most inept I've ever seen, and contradicted himself many, may times. The ONLY thing anyone cared about was aftersell, and how much $$$ they could get out of me.

    Then I had trouble getting key out of ignition. Dealer service dept wanted no part of repairing it. Car was in 3X but I don't think they ever even looked at it. Finally, they said they'd order a whole new ignition switch. The problem was that the gear selector was not sensing that the car was in park. You cannot remove the key when the car is not in park. I FIGURED THIS OUT, if I left it to the dealer, it would have never been fixed. Finally, after my persisting, they adjusted the sensor in the console, and now it works fine. Be careful where you buy!!!!
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103
    Smore, where did you buy yours? 1.5years ago, I bought my '99 DX hatch at RT23 Honda.

    No pressure AND no aftersell. Mine gets serviced now at Clinton Honda since I live in Hunterdon Cty.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    Rae52,

    Regrettably I bought my Honda at Rt 23 Honda also. I'd walk before I'd buy another car there. Be glad you live in Hunterdon Cty.
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103
    Smore,

    Where do you take your Civic for servicing?

    Sorry to read about your experience-I think their service dept is ok, although I haven't used them for at least the last 6 mos.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I've only had my car a month and a half and it would take me that long to tell you how bad it's been dealing with RT 23Honda. I can't type it all here, because it's too complicated. BUT, after the third trip for the ignition, the service guy came out to the car, and told me it's me and there's nothing wrong with the car. Fact is, he didn't want to be bothered. It gets better. I've been driving 20+ years and never had trouble getting the key out of any car. I am smart enough to figure it out. When I persisted, they took my car in and gave me a loaner car, also a piece of [non-permissible content removed] Y2K Civic (same as my car). Now here's the best part. The ignition on that car worked fine. If it's me, how come I can get the key out of one car but not the other. My advice: DO NOT BUY A CAR FROM THEM! I haven't taken the car in for service yet, it only has 1000 miles on it. I won't have the strength to bring my car to them for service, that's too frightening for me.
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103
    Smore,

    When your car is due for servicing, I recommend you patronize Steve's Honda in Parsippany.

    Hopefully that's not outof your area.

    They are extremely honest, and are on-line w/ ALLDATA. They simply cannot do warranty work.

    Hope this info helps. Good Luck.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    Thank you much!Parsippany is not out of my way because I work near there. And I hope I won't need much warranty work... after all the car is still a Honda so it should run forever.

    BTW, how does your HOnda run? Have you had any trouble?
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103
    Smore, My car just turned 25k miles recently and I'm following my freinds' advice. I had been following 3750 mile service interval using Mobil5w 30. However, that's a bit of a nuisance, so I just switched to Mobil 1 (5w-30)using a 5kmile service interval. I've got to tell you, Mobil 1 is such an improvement in the following areas: 1)engine crank time, 2)engine quietness, and 3)gas mileage.

    I don't think I'll ever use regular oil again.

    Clinton Honda does my oil changes and they deduct the cost of their oil from my bill. Very nice people to do business with.

    The 2 problems I've had with my car were an offcenter steering wheel from day 1. What a story about that! The 2nd problem was a loose and squeaky hatch door that Clinton corrected very Quickly-Rt23 thought it was a suspension bushing that needed more lube-not!!

    Still love the car!
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    The ignition interlock problem you described is apparently rather common. We have two Civics with auto transmissions and, on both cars, found that if the selector is not pushed well forward in the PARK detent, the ignition lock solenoid will not release the key. Adjustment of the switch position at the selector is the proper corrective action but since your dealer shop failed to quickly diagnose this common problem; I suggest you find a more capable shop. Good luck.
  • i am an owner of a 94 honda civic ex. vehicle has 104,000 miles. just recently, the car will shake on interstate travel AFTER about 10 minutes of riding. this is a pretty hard shake which can be felt on the pedel as you push down for gas. the shake will stop upon lifting up on gas pedel. first thought was that tires needed to be balanced and rotated with no allignment necessary due to the fact that the car does not swerve to the left or right. this was done, but didnt help. 2 of my tires are worn out and need replacing which is one of my theories of the problem. i would figure, though, that there would have been a difference for good or bad after getting the tires rotated and balanced. i am hoping that this is not a problem with maybe a bearing which i have heard is expensive to fix. what do you guys think? i need tires anyway, so i will probably replace all 4 and see if the problem is still there. my fear is that after $300 plus spending on tires, i will have to spend alot more for the diagnostic and the bearing replacement. thanks for any responses.
  • petemazpetemaz Posts: 2
    Don't think this is a problem. I had a '95 EX that did it, and my '97 Integra does the same thing. I kinda like it - I know that if it doesn't start right away it's time to get gas...

    Pete
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    The tires being bad can cause the vibrations you speak of but they should do it with accel and decel around a certain mph because usally speed is the reason for shimmy not the load of the engine.If your shimmy happens driving down the road on accel from set speed then I would think you may have an ignition system break down such as plugs,plug wires,cap,rotor or something distributor related.The only other thing that comes to mind is the possibility of a inner axle joint but they dont go bad often unless they have leaked out their greese.As far as a bearing being the cause usally they are noisy going down the road when they are bad so if you hear no noise then they are probably ok.Let us know..good luck
  • grbeckgrbeck Posts: 2,361
    I'm the owner of a 1999 Civic EX sedan with about 40,000 miles. The car has been great except for one thing - the brakes. I've already had the rotors turned once, and now I'm already feeling pulsations when I step on the brakes again. I can't believe this is normal. When I took it in for the last service appointment (at about 36,000 miles), the dealer rotated the tires. They are no longer in balance - there is an occasional vibration at about 70 mph. The pulsation in the brakes was present prior to the service, but it really worsened afterwards. I can't believe these rotors need turned again. Unfortunately, the car is out of warranty.

    Please note that I don't drive in a mountainous area or ride the brake pedal. What is the problem? My 1993 EX sedan went over 70,000 miles before I had to have the rotors turned. Granted, most of my driving was on the highway at the time (I had a 100-mile roundtrip commute) and now I live less than three miles from work.

    I don't want to spend the money for aftermarket rotors. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Being that you said they rotors were turned once already you probably have room for one more cut. Have them resurfaced one more time and make sure they cut them with an on the car lathe. If they take them off the car to turn them and your hub is not true then they will shimmy again, if they cut them on the car with the same situation then they componsate for the hub.Also after cutting make sure the rims/tires are torqued when they put them on. An uneven torque can cause a brake shimmy over time.Good luck
  • grbeckgrbeck Posts: 2,361
    Thank you for the information. I've only had the car serviced at a Honda dealer - Faulkner Honda in Harrisburg, to be exact - so I can't believe that they wouldn't follow those instructions. I just don't think I should already have to get the rotors turned again so soon, period. They were turned less than 6,000 miles ago. This should not be happening.

    When Honda brought out this generation Civic (1996-2000), I remember reading that the braking system cost 25 percent less than that of the previous generation's (1992-1995). Aside from switching to back rear drums on the EX, I think I know where they saved that money!
  • thank you for the info. i took it to my local honda shop and they couldn't find one thing wrong with the cv-joints (inner axel). the only thing for me to do is get some good tires. the mechanic downplayed any reason for my problem to be related to an ignition system breakdown also. anyways, thanks for the good info and hopefully 4 new tires will do the trick.
  • chulwoochulwoo Posts: 11
    I finally got an answer from a mechanic at the dealer.. He said the fuel injector on some cars takes longer than usual to build up the pressure necessary to start the engine when low on fuel.
    He said this has been known for a while, but Honda hasn't come up with any official notice..

    He suggest I try waiting a little before cranking the key. I'll see how that works.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I have a '00 Civic EX with automatic. Transmission seems to wind out in each gear even under light throttle. Also, at first stop light on cold engine, engine either stalls or can barely idle. The rest of the day, it runs fine but it's still annoying. Since the purchase/service at RT 23 Honda was SO BAD (DO NOT BUY THERE!!!!) I don't want to bring the car back. Any comments? Thanks.
  • My wife has a silver 99 si and my brother has a silver 99 Acura 3.2. Both cars have paint peeling off the bumpers. Not from stone chips or dents or any other obvious physical reason. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    For both of your complaints I will check into them and see if any info can be found.Have not seen any of the Civics doing either complaint that I can remember.
  • hey auburn, thanks again for the possibilities of my honda "shake", but it still remains a mystery and is getting worse. i bought 4 new tires, and replaced plug and wires and cap. any other thoughts or ideas what the heck can be wrong with my car? it is getting to be unbearable for me to drive. it now shakes and vibrates at around 40 mph again just on accelaration. any other ideas would be appreciated greatly!
  • I have an Integra that had started to shake only during acceleration. I called my mechanic. He said it was probably a CV joint. Took it in, they said yep, that's what it was. He replaced both inner joints, car ran fine after that. That was at about 235k miles, my only drivetrain repair to date. Got 281K on it now.
  • Ignition system could be a problem also as Auburn63 pointed out. I had problems w/ spark plugs at 2 different times. First time was fouled plugs after car had been at body shop for a couple weeks. Car would idle okay, but would misfire during acceleration. Replaced plugs, car ran okay.

    Another time, car was starting to miss during acceleration on highway driving. Remembering episode 1 above, thought I might need new plugs again. Went to pull plugs so I would know what to buy at NAPA, and found out that some of the plug wires were not pushed on to plugs all the way. Made sure all were on, then no more problems.

    Both problems above ocurred during acceleration, but involved the engine misfiring, and some vibration in vehicle from that.

    But if the vibration you have is felt more in the steering wheel during acceleration, I would look to the CV joints, as noted in my previous post.
  • thanks for the info, but all you have mentioned has been checked. my local honda shop found NO problems with CV joints. i also replaced spark plugs and wires and rotor cap two days ago myself. the vibration i feel is more in the gas peddle than steering wheel, although it can be felt throughout the car. i am beginning to suspect something along the lines of fuel line/injector problems. who knows. once again, i am taking it back to the freaking shop. thanks for the input.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    What is the shop saying that it is? Usally you should be able to atleast narrow it down to what kind of break down it is,electrical,mechanical or transfer. Ignition break down is still possible since it happens under load, such things as a coil(non-Honda especialy),igniter or rotor/cap.
    Inner joints are hard to diagnose but the one tell tell sign of an inner joint is that the vibration will change with passengers(extra weight)due to the joint possition inside its cup.
    Transfer noises/vibrations can happen if the exaust is bent or if motor mounts are going bad or if the cable is touching something or is stiff itself.
    The tech should be able, if it is bad enough to atleast determine the area of the problem.If it is not bad then it will be difficult to locate.Good luck...
This discussion has been closed.