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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Along with what dudka has said is it also possible that you may be on a slight incline? If so the fuel could be going away from the fuel pump in the tank when it is low.If you park on level ground then maybe it is just slightly depresurizing.Just a thought or two..let us know what the tech says
  • chulwoochulwoo Posts: 11
    Thanks for the responses.

    I'm still a few days away from checkup, although I'm tempted to do ut sooner than later..
    I'll let you know what they said after that.
  • dudkadudka Posts: 451
    try refueling to half a tank. that way you will have to refuel more often. and see what happends.
  • Just wanted to thank auburn63 and spokane for the valuable advice given several months ago on a crazy dancing speedometer that I had. When my "check engine" light came on, I finally broke down and brought it to the shop. Sure enough, you guys were right on the money diagnosing it as a speed sensor problem. Luckily, that was the only problem and relatively cheap. Got it fixed, and a week later traded it in for an Acura (love those Honda products).

    Thanks again auburn63 and spokane. It was nice to be armed with your diagnosis and fun to see if the mechanic was going to try to rip me off (he didn't). Auburn63, looks like your gaining quite a following with all these referrals for your advice!
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Glad to be of some assistance to you and yeah I know what you mean with the referrals.I like it and all that but don't want to be a post hog either if you know what I mean.Everyones opinion and experiances are very important in diagnosing things as well.Anyhow glad things worked out for you,see ya.....
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I recently bought a '00 Honda Civic EX coupe. Dealer is incredibly bad. I live in Northern NJ and dealer was jamming add ons and extended warranty down my throat. Their prices for both were so exhorbitant I declined. The EX coupe is well equipped so you don't need many options. Salesperson was the most inept I've ever seen, and contradicted himself many, may times. The ONLY thing anyone cared about was aftersell, and how much $$$ they could get out of me.

    Then I had trouble getting key out of ignition. Dealer service dept wanted no part of repairing it. Car was in 3X but I don't think they ever even looked at it. Finally, they said they'd order a whole new ignition switch. The problem was that the gear selector was not sensing that the car was in park. You cannot remove the key when the car is not in park. I FIGURED THIS OUT, if I left it to the dealer, it would have never been fixed. Finally, after my persisting, they adjusted the sensor in the console, and now it works fine. Be careful where you buy!!!!
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103
    Smore, where did you buy yours? 1.5years ago, I bought my '99 DX hatch at RT23 Honda.

    No pressure AND no aftersell. Mine gets serviced now at Clinton Honda since I live in Hunterdon Cty.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25

    Regrettably I bought my Honda at Rt 23 Honda also. I'd walk before I'd buy another car there. Be glad you live in Hunterdon Cty.
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103

    Where do you take your Civic for servicing?

    Sorry to read about your experience-I think their service dept is ok, although I haven't used them for at least the last 6 mos.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I've only had my car a month and a half and it would take me that long to tell you how bad it's been dealing with RT 23Honda. I can't type it all here, because it's too complicated. BUT, after the third trip for the ignition, the service guy came out to the car, and told me it's me and there's nothing wrong with the car. Fact is, he didn't want to be bothered. It gets better. I've been driving 20+ years and never had trouble getting the key out of any car. I am smart enough to figure it out. When I persisted, they took my car in and gave me a loaner car, also a piece of [non-permissible content removed] Y2K Civic (same as my car). Now here's the best part. The ignition on that car worked fine. If it's me, how come I can get the key out of one car but not the other. My advice: DO NOT BUY A CAR FROM THEM! I haven't taken the car in for service yet, it only has 1000 miles on it. I won't have the strength to bring my car to them for service, that's too frightening for me.
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103

    When your car is due for servicing, I recommend you patronize Steve's Honda in Parsippany.

    Hopefully that's not outof your area.

    They are extremely honest, and are on-line w/ ALLDATA. They simply cannot do warranty work.

    Hope this info helps. Good Luck.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    Thank you much!Parsippany is not out of my way because I work near there. And I hope I won't need much warranty work... after all the car is still a Honda so it should run forever.

    BTW, how does your HOnda run? Have you had any trouble?
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 103
    Smore, My car just turned 25k miles recently and I'm following my freinds' advice. I had been following 3750 mile service interval using Mobil5w 30. However, that's a bit of a nuisance, so I just switched to Mobil 1 (5w-30)using a 5kmile service interval. I've got to tell you, Mobil 1 is such an improvement in the following areas: 1)engine crank time, 2)engine quietness, and 3)gas mileage.

    I don't think I'll ever use regular oil again.

    Clinton Honda does my oil changes and they deduct the cost of their oil from my bill. Very nice people to do business with.

    The 2 problems I've had with my car were an offcenter steering wheel from day 1. What a story about that! The 2nd problem was a loose and squeaky hatch door that Clinton corrected very Quickly-Rt23 thought it was a suspension bushing that needed more lube-not!!

    Still love the car!
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    The ignition interlock problem you described is apparently rather common. We have two Civics with auto transmissions and, on both cars, found that if the selector is not pushed well forward in the PARK detent, the ignition lock solenoid will not release the key. Adjustment of the switch position at the selector is the proper corrective action but since your dealer shop failed to quickly diagnose this common problem; I suggest you find a more capable shop. Good luck.
  • i am an owner of a 94 honda civic ex. vehicle has 104,000 miles. just recently, the car will shake on interstate travel AFTER about 10 minutes of riding. this is a pretty hard shake which can be felt on the pedel as you push down for gas. the shake will stop upon lifting up on gas pedel. first thought was that tires needed to be balanced and rotated with no allignment necessary due to the fact that the car does not swerve to the left or right. this was done, but didnt help. 2 of my tires are worn out and need replacing which is one of my theories of the problem. i would figure, though, that there would have been a difference for good or bad after getting the tires rotated and balanced. i am hoping that this is not a problem with maybe a bearing which i have heard is expensive to fix. what do you guys think? i need tires anyway, so i will probably replace all 4 and see if the problem is still there. my fear is that after $300 plus spending on tires, i will have to spend alot more for the diagnostic and the bearing replacement. thanks for any responses.
  • petemazpetemaz Posts: 2
    Don't think this is a problem. I had a '95 EX that did it, and my '97 Integra does the same thing. I kinda like it - I know that if it doesn't start right away it's time to get gas...

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    The tires being bad can cause the vibrations you speak of but they should do it with accel and decel around a certain mph because usally speed is the reason for shimmy not the load of the engine.If your shimmy happens driving down the road on accel from set speed then I would think you may have an ignition system break down such as plugs,plug wires,cap,rotor or something distributor related.The only other thing that comes to mind is the possibility of a inner axle joint but they dont go bad often unless they have leaked out their greese.As far as a bearing being the cause usally they are noisy going down the road when they are bad so if you hear no noise then they are probably ok.Let us know..good luck
  • grbeckgrbeck Posts: 2,361
    I'm the owner of a 1999 Civic EX sedan with about 40,000 miles. The car has been great except for one thing - the brakes. I've already had the rotors turned once, and now I'm already feeling pulsations when I step on the brakes again. I can't believe this is normal. When I took it in for the last service appointment (at about 36,000 miles), the dealer rotated the tires. They are no longer in balance - there is an occasional vibration at about 70 mph. The pulsation in the brakes was present prior to the service, but it really worsened afterwards. I can't believe these rotors need turned again. Unfortunately, the car is out of warranty.

    Please note that I don't drive in a mountainous area or ride the brake pedal. What is the problem? My 1993 EX sedan went over 70,000 miles before I had to have the rotors turned. Granted, most of my driving was on the highway at the time (I had a 100-mile roundtrip commute) and now I live less than three miles from work.

    I don't want to spend the money for aftermarket rotors. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Being that you said they rotors were turned once already you probably have room for one more cut. Have them resurfaced one more time and make sure they cut them with an on the car lathe. If they take them off the car to turn them and your hub is not true then they will shimmy again, if they cut them on the car with the same situation then they componsate for the hub.Also after cutting make sure the rims/tires are torqued when they put them on. An uneven torque can cause a brake shimmy over time.Good luck
  • grbeckgrbeck Posts: 2,361
    Thank you for the information. I've only had the car serviced at a Honda dealer - Faulkner Honda in Harrisburg, to be exact - so I can't believe that they wouldn't follow those instructions. I just don't think I should already have to get the rotors turned again so soon, period. They were turned less than 6,000 miles ago. This should not be happening.

    When Honda brought out this generation Civic (1996-2000), I remember reading that the braking system cost 25 percent less than that of the previous generation's (1992-1995). Aside from switching to back rear drums on the EX, I think I know where they saved that money!
  • thank you for the info. i took it to my local honda shop and they couldn't find one thing wrong with the cv-joints (inner axel). the only thing for me to do is get some good tires. the mechanic downplayed any reason for my problem to be related to an ignition system breakdown also. anyways, thanks for the good info and hopefully 4 new tires will do the trick.
  • chulwoochulwoo Posts: 11
    I finally got an answer from a mechanic at the dealer.. He said the fuel injector on some cars takes longer than usual to build up the pressure necessary to start the engine when low on fuel.
    He said this has been known for a while, but Honda hasn't come up with any official notice..

    He suggest I try waiting a little before cranking the key. I'll see how that works.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I have a '00 Civic EX with automatic. Transmission seems to wind out in each gear even under light throttle. Also, at first stop light on cold engine, engine either stalls or can barely idle. The rest of the day, it runs fine but it's still annoying. Since the purchase/service at RT 23 Honda was SO BAD (DO NOT BUY THERE!!!!) I don't want to bring the car back. Any comments? Thanks.
  • My wife has a silver 99 si and my brother has a silver 99 Acura 3.2. Both cars have paint peeling off the bumpers. Not from stone chips or dents or any other obvious physical reason. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    For both of your complaints I will check into them and see if any info can be found.Have not seen any of the Civics doing either complaint that I can remember.
  • hey auburn, thanks again for the possibilities of my honda "shake", but it still remains a mystery and is getting worse. i bought 4 new tires, and replaced plug and wires and cap. any other thoughts or ideas what the heck can be wrong with my car? it is getting to be unbearable for me to drive. it now shakes and vibrates at around 40 mph again just on accelaration. any other ideas would be appreciated greatly!
  • I have an Integra that had started to shake only during acceleration. I called my mechanic. He said it was probably a CV joint. Took it in, they said yep, that's what it was. He replaced both inner joints, car ran fine after that. That was at about 235k miles, my only drivetrain repair to date. Got 281K on it now.
  • Ignition system could be a problem also as Auburn63 pointed out. I had problems w/ spark plugs at 2 different times. First time was fouled plugs after car had been at body shop for a couple weeks. Car would idle okay, but would misfire during acceleration. Replaced plugs, car ran okay.

    Another time, car was starting to miss during acceleration on highway driving. Remembering episode 1 above, thought I might need new plugs again. Went to pull plugs so I would know what to buy at NAPA, and found out that some of the plug wires were not pushed on to plugs all the way. Made sure all were on, then no more problems.

    Both problems above ocurred during acceleration, but involved the engine misfiring, and some vibration in vehicle from that.

    But if the vibration you have is felt more in the steering wheel during acceleration, I would look to the CV joints, as noted in my previous post.
  • thanks for the info, but all you have mentioned has been checked. my local honda shop found NO problems with CV joints. i also replaced spark plugs and wires and rotor cap two days ago myself. the vibration i feel is more in the gas peddle than steering wheel, although it can be felt throughout the car. i am beginning to suspect something along the lines of fuel line/injector problems. who knows. once again, i am taking it back to the freaking shop. thanks for the input.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    What is the shop saying that it is? Usally you should be able to atleast narrow it down to what kind of break down it is,electrical,mechanical or transfer. Ignition break down is still possible since it happens under load, such things as a coil(non-Honda especialy),igniter or rotor/cap.
    Inner joints are hard to diagnose but the one tell tell sign of an inner joint is that the vibration will change with passengers(extra weight)due to the joint possition inside its cup.
    Transfer noises/vibrations can happen if the exaust is bent or if motor mounts are going bad or if the cable is touching something or is stiff itself.
    The tech should be able, if it is bad enough to atleast determine the area of the problem.If it is not bad then it will be difficult to locate.Good luck...
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