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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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I got an oil change this past weekend and noticed there was rusting in the engine compartment. The dealer service dept said it was the exhaust manifold (I didn't know what it was) and it was normal for it to rust even though I had the car for less than 9 months. He said that it is possible to see BRAND new cars with rusty exhaust manifold... Is it really normal?
Thanks.
I took it into the dealership, and they replaced the thermostat. The next day, the same problem arose. For two weeks after that, the heater seemed to work fine.
Tonight, I drove my car for about 35 miles on the highway. Parked the car for about 40 minutes. Started the car again, turned the heater after a few minutes : Cold air.
Left the car alone for about 30 minutes, started again: Hot air would came out from the vents.
Started to head back on the highway: Heat was to high so turned the temp dial half way. Started to get cold in the car and turned the dial to a hotter setting, and again all I would get is cold air.
Has anyone had similar problems? Any suggestions on what might be causing this problem?
app1nag, good observation there....
If anyone is experiencing heavy paint chipping problems on their Honda Civic Si's please read on.
If your model year(s) are 1999-2000 and you have noticed excessive paint chipping on your car's body panels here's what we need to do.
Please e-mail Me at Yabbadabbadoit@aol.com with all of your paint complaints. I'm trying to put a major complaint in with the manufacturer's recall department. This might mean a recall-repaint order to be filed. OR Honda Civic Si owners may be compensated for the loss of value the defect has caused. I know this is a problem. The paint is too thin, and isnt flexable enough to stand up to minor elements. Please help out if you get a chance! Your name is not important. If you wish, please indicate the area of the US you live in..ex..midwest/eastcoast/westcoast/ and so on. Thanks!!
The engine runs smooth, so let's hope I go another 240K.
Thanks again for your previous comments.
j.w.
The problem with investing a huge sum of money in an old car is this...Suppose it gets wrecked tomorrow? When you put a 4000.00 engine into a 400.00 car, you still have a 400.00 car.
It's kinda scary...in case of an accident, the insurance company won't care about your recent investment.
On the other hand..what can you get for 4000.00 these days?
Also, a 240,000 mile car is getting tired in other ways...even a Honda!
Tough call...I guess only time will determine if your decision was a prudent one.
Personally, I would have walked away from it.
My new civic is getting close to the 7500 miles mark. According to the manual, the 7500 mile service includes "adjust clutch and rear brakes". This might be hard to do it by myself. I'm thinking to take it to the dealer now.
Thanks for any advice.
Also, when I brake, I feel this pulsing/vibration which causes my steering wheel to vibrate also. Is this the pads or rotor?
I am trying to avoid too much cost in tuning it up, but I am a chick w/o much mechanical skills and will try to do as much on our own. thanks in advance for the response and help.
Jtom,
Maybe the hesitation is a bad throttle position sensor. Can you get it to happen at the same throttle position(meaning foot pushed down the same amount)or does speed and position vary? Sometimes lack of power is also caused by the floor mat being jammed up underneath the gas pedal.Other than these simple things it is hard to say, could be possible ignition problems or even carbon build up on valves. Try to isolate when it happens and let us know.As far as your brake problem.You have warped rotors and if they haven't been cut before then you can have them cut and should put new pads on at that time also.If they have been cut then you should just put on new rotors, because as the rotors get thinner they get easier to warp again..Good luck
The Honda factory rep also said that the noise was normal and that it was coming from the differential.
The Honda factory rep also said that the noise was normal and it was coming from the differential. I have asked several other Honda Civic owners about this noise and ,so far,nobody has heard of this problem.
Three local mechanics have told me that it sounds like a bearing noise and that it not a normal sound.
Please help with your feedback.
Thank you.
For the last 30k miles my 93 Civic has had a knocking noise from the engine on cold starts. It goes away after the engine has reached operating temp. The valves were adjusted, so I assume the mech ck'd out that part of the engine. Anybody have any suggestions? TIA.
Russ
Obviously, the electrical problem has not been fixed. I suspect that the immobilizer ignition key might have a problem. Does anyone else have similar electrical problems with 2001 Civics ? Or does my sister just have a lemon of Honda variety ?
The problem sounds rather similar.
In my opinion, while the dealer is not responsible for fixing the problem under the car warranty (assuming that the Problem IS caused by the aftermarket alarm system), but the company that installed your alarm system should be responsible. You should pursue reimbursement from them for the money you paid to repair the car. If necessary, be prepared to go through small claims court.
The horn worked fine for about 3 weeks, and now once a month usually, the horn will fail. When it breaks, here are the symptoms. I'll park the car, and walk away using the remote to try and lock the doors and sound the horn. I double-click the lock button and I hear the door locks go down. Normally I'll also hear the horn sound as well. When broken, I obviously don't hear the horn. If I open the door and press the switch on the steering wheel column, I hear the switch click but the horn doesn't go off. If I press the steering column switch repeatedly, harder and harder, it will eventually sound and the remote will make the horn go off fine afterwards until the horn fails the next time.
The dealer hasn't been much help. I can rarely get the car to them with the problem because it usually fixes itself by the time I drive the 10-15 minutes to the dealer. They cleaned the connections, oiled the switch, and still the problem keeps coming back. Eventually, they got tired of guessing and just replaced the horn a month ago, and I thought that fixed it until it happened again today.
I'm an electrical engineer, and I can't think of many reasons why this is happening. Neither the remote or the switches on the steering column will cause the horn to sound, yet hitting the switches on the column repeatedly will make it work. I can only surmise that moisture or dirty contacts are being fixed by repeated spikes of electric current as I try the horn again and again.
Has anyone else had this problem occur to them, or can anyone offer any assistance? The dealer is pretty much at a loss and they can't think of anything. I'm half tempted to just have them replace all of the wiring for the horn going from the steering column to the horn itself.
Any car, even a Honda can have problems, no doubt about that. Don't blame the car though when some aftermarket guy did a slock job on it.
The only real "hassle" is working with the dash, the electronics is pretty straightforward.
For a $3-400 system, Pioneer/Blau/KW/Sony heads become a matter of preference. Speakers - Pioneer typically offers the best bang for the buck.
Good luck.
Thanks,
LETTER:
Further to our numerous telephone conversations, I would like to thank you for giving your immediate attention to the above noted issue. I would also like to commend the service staff at the Honda Dealership for their professionalism. The staff have all been very courteous. The above noted problem is not a service issue, but rather a build quality issue.
As you may recall, the reason for my initial call to your department was out of concern about a trial and error approach being taken towards this problem. I do understand that sometimes this is necessary. My real concern, however, was the fact that the intermittent heat issue was an unusual problem. Both you and Darren Reid have communicated that this problem was a first in the annals of Honda's Technical Department. As you are likely aware, the heat issue was indeed peculiar. In fact, an unused bolt was found in the intake manifold which was left dangling inside of the engine causing it to restrict the flow of coolant to the heater core. This revelation was shocking to say the least. Consequently, the engine had to be disassembled and the head gasket was replaced. I think you would agree this is not a desirable or common repair to perform on a car with less than 6,000 km. As I understand, Honda Canada has sent this “mysterious” bolt to the assembly plant in Ohio to obtain an explanation. I can only assume that Honda Canada feels the same way as I do.
The problem was not caused by a defect, but rather an act of carelessness (also evidenced by several other deficiencies). A defective component is one thing, but an unused bolt (not even a part of the car) dangling inside of the drivetrain is alarming. This is indicative of poor workmanship. One can only assume that this is likely a sign of things to come. I find this disturbing since Honda prides and markets itself on the build quality and reliability of the vehicles it manufactures. This is the very reason why I purchased a Honda and ultimately paid a premium for. Clearly, someone at the assembly plant was careless. As a result, I will likely end up paying for this individual’s mistake in terms of reliability. I am confident Honda Canada will agree that such uncertainty should not be happening at this early stage of ownership. Obviously, my confidence in the build quality and overall reliability of my vehicle has been undermined. I now cannot in good faith and as a matter of law sell this vehicle without disclosing this act of carelessness. In essence, my car’s resale value has been diminished considerably.
I would appreciate hearing from someone in a senior management position at Honda to further discuss my concerns about this matter. I will be anxiously waiting for this phone call.
Standard Bosch relay
pin 85--put 12 volts ignition
pin 86--put to ground
pin 87--not used
pin 87a-to negative lead of a piezo buzzer or whatever signaling device
pin 30--to door pinswitch
By using a relay, when the key is on, the relay is energized, throwing 30 and 87 together. This opens the circuit for the ground of the buzzer. So if you opened the door while the headlights were on, the buzzer would not sound. When the ignition is killed, this puts 30 and 87a together to close the circuit, completing the negative path so if the door is opened, the completed circuit would sound the buzzer if the headlights were left on. Properly fuse the relay for safety, just a few amps are needed. Hope this helps you out.
Is sounds like there is either an obvious wiring problem (sounds like the 12v memory lead to the radio and clock has been disconnected) The switched 12v lead will allow the radio and clock to come on, which is why the code needs to be put in.
I wouldn't put up with the run-around crap. There is an obvious problem (either tecnnician or a factory alarm wiring harness flaw) and they should repair it. Good luck.
Not elegant but fast cheap and easy...
Pretty sure the Radio Shack will still sell what you need
-Mike
Hope this helps.
After driving 30-40 minutes on the highway and then shutting the car off, the car makes really load squeaks upon exiting the car. It appears that it is coming from the front side of the car. Sort of sounds like a couple going at it on a creaky bed. When I try to rock the car, this creaking sounds is coming from the front wheel area. I'm concerned because the car also pulls and drifts at highway speeds.
Also, I have been getting creaking sounds from the rear left in the interior after hitting larger bumps. I'm not sure if it is emanating from a window or seat. It is difficult to pinpoint.
Anyone had similar problems or suggestions on what may be causing these creaks?
There is a service bulletin about a squeak coming from the rear shelf where the speakers sit.
Worst nightmare of my life! Good luck to those of
you have horrific problems like myself. VOA will
not do anything unless your car meets the EXACT
letter of the Lemon Law. In brief your car needs
to go in four times for the same thing or 30 days
out of service. My car meets 15 days out of
service and in three times for the same thing.
Let me list the ways . . .
1. Comfort control module on the circuit board was
burned and melted which shorted the battery - this
was the final straw for me leaving me stranded in
a bad part of town on a Friday night.
2. Warped door panel
3. Drivers door was installed incorrectly causing
a loud vibrating noise. Once this was fixed I was
told due to the large door and the weight of it I
would need to come in periodically to have it
tightened.
4. Fuel system gauge was not properly calibrated
5. Right front turn signal replaced due to
moisture build up
6. Vibration in car when window open/cracked
7. Window off track
8. Rear hatch would not open from the inside
9. Brake lights on all the time-they had to
readjust the switch and replace if it happened
again
10. Drivers side window switch replaced
11. Passenger seat lever would not not allow seat
to tilt
12. Replacement of dashboard-I was told they are
faulty.
13. When the nose of the car is parked down hill
about a 6-7% grade or less it will not start. It
has to be rolled to level ground then it will
start. The dealer has never been able to duplicate
this and therefore will not check anything out or
replace anything. This happens quite often.
14. Sluggish going from reverse to drive and vise
versa
15. When going from drive to reverse sometimes it
will not go into reverse. You have to shift to
park then reverse.
I have read almost all of everyones complaints and
I see some definate similarities. A previous
gentleman wrote that if everyone would please call
VOA or write them then maybe they would start
paying more attention to everyones problems. I
will say that I have now gotten rid of this
nightmarish car and got back into a Honda Civic and
am much happier now. I sold my 1995 Civic with
44K miles and paid off to get this darn beetle -
stupid me, but a mistake I will never make again!
Also, due to the treatment we received at our
dealer ship and VOA my boyfriend who is a 6 time VW
owner will never buy VW again. I've never been
treated such a lack of respect. The dealer is
Roseville VW-never buy from them, never buy a VW!
Thanks
With respect to the squeak from the rear, some padding was added to the rear pillar/seatbelt retractor area. Again, problem has been solved. I was impressed that the dealership was able to solve these problems. Squeaks are usually difficult to pinpoint. Kudos to the dealership.
Apparently, there was a TSB just released on this build quality issue.
As a whole, I have had a hell of a time with my new car. The heater would not work on an intermittent basis. It took the dealership three attempts to find out what the problem was. (1. Thermostat 2. Water Valve 3. Disassemble the engine). Apparently, a bolt, not even a part of the car, was found inside the air intake manifold. From time to time, this bolt would be pushed into the radiator hose connected to the heater core. This caused it to restrict the flow of coolant to the core. As a result, the head gasket was replaced. Talk about poor build quality. I guess US assembly is still inferior to the [non-permissible content removed]. As far as I am concerned, the car will never be the same.
Even the best of cars can have a mis-placed bolt.
Things that shouldn't happen can happen.
that's why warranties exist.
Just enjoy your car!
Yes, warranties do exist. I'd prefer not to have to use it. This is the reason why many people purchase Civics. Replacing original factory parts is not something you want done to your vehicle at such an early stage. Disassembling the whole engine is shocking enough.
Anyways, that is my two cents. I expect, as a reseller, you have to defend Honda's reputation. You earn your living by selling these cars. I have no problems with that. Don't get me wrong I know a number of people who are tickled pink with their Hondas. Mine just happens to be sub-par. Honda is not immune from producing a bad car. All car manufacturers produce bad cars. What separates the good from the bad is the company that takes responsibility for manufacturing a poorly built vehicle. I'm in discussion with Honda as we speak. I should find out shortly whether Honda will live up to its reputation of Customer Satisfaction.
Actually, the vibrating noise is getting much louder, and this morning on my way to work, it was terrible. Definitely something in the sun roof mechanism is rattling, and it just started a few days ago!
I hope this isn't a sign of things to come.