Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently switched from a luxury sedan to a luxury SUV?
A reporter would like to talk to you; please reach out to [email protected] by 7/25 for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    I never did get to work on any however I did get to see them. I started with Honda in 83 and we had a customer coming in with one(not sure what year)but he asked for one of our A Techs at the time to work on his car.I had just started so I didnt get a chance at it.
    Good luck with the new motor...
  • I have a '95 Honda Civic EX coupe. The "SRS" light has been on for about a month now. I just took it in to the dealer (Eagle Honda Dallas, TX) and I think they're trying to screw me.

    They tell me that the computer has stored 4 errors and it is impossible to "reset" the unit. Actually, they say that the unit "will not take a reset". The long and the short of it is that
    they want $1000 to replace the unit. $850 for the unit and $150 for labor.

    I have also talked with a couple other car repair places, not Honda dealers, who specialize in Honda. They tell me that only dealers can work on the airbag systems. They say that they don't
    even have the diagnostic tools to start with. They also tell me that the Honda dealers are interfaced together via computers, so I expect to get the same story from any other dealer that I would go
    to. This is compounded by the fact that they charge about $70 to even look at the problem. Getting a couple more opinions from
    Honda could add up fast in the cost department.

    Is there any way I can get a second opinion? Can this be true? Do I have any options? I have a sneaking suspicion that if I were allowed access to the diagnostic tools and told what to do with them, I could reset the unit. It seems fishy to me that a component which has never been used would suddenly need to be replaced without any other options for resetting or repair.


    Bent over in Dallas,
  • thanks so much for the help you guys have provided. i spent sunday night and monday night replacing the half shaft on the driver side of the honda. it wouldn't have taken two nights if the auto parts store would've provided me with the right size half shaft. anyways, it wasn't that hard to replace thanks to the help you guys provided, as well as supervision from my father in law. most importantly, the car is driving wonderfully!!!!! no shake! thanks again!!!!
  • hey guys. i have a question. is replacing a timing belt pretty easy or should i just take it to a shop? thx.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    Been there, done that. DO NOT replace timing belt yourself. It is not for the Saturday mechanic. Honda engine compartments are very tight, and the positioning of a timing belt is very delicate. I strongly recommend having it done professionally. Make sure you go to a competent reputable shop. That's about the only thing I recommend the dealer for. If they tell you to get a water pump at the same time, it's really a good idea because access to the water pump is great while doing the timing belt, thus saving future labor costs. Good luck.
  • Thanks, auburn. I'm going to try that this weekend. The car has been kept in excellent condition and nver smokes or leaks. One question: does anyone know if synthetic oil smoke when it burns? Like I said, I hate to get rid of a relativly young car that I expected to have for 10 years.
  • I have a couple of questions for you...I have a 3 month old Honda Civic LX sedan with manual transmission. After about 700 miles (it currently has 4800 miles) the engine idle speed is higher during a cold start than when it is warmed up. During a cold start the idle speed is about 1700 rpm vs 800 for a warmed up engine. Also even after the car is warmed up there is a 2 or 3 second delay between when the car comes to a complete stop and when the engine goes down to its normal idle speed. Is this normal? Also is it a good idea to change the manual transmission fluid the first time a lot earlier than when the manufacturer recommends? Thanks for your help in advance.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Everything that you have said is normal operation.The cold idle will be higher and may even go a little higher than 1700 and then once warm the idle will drop down.It is also normal for a stick shift to have that delay. This is designed in to help with smoother shifts between gears and to keep the car from stalling while coming to a stop.
    There is no need(unless you just wanted to) to change the trans fluid before the recomended time.Once you do decide to change it I would highly recomend using the Honda manual trans fluid.We have seen problems with those that haven't used it.Good luck with your car..
  • ronlemronlem Posts: 1
    I've got a '97 EX sedan and this weekend the remote stopped working. Now I have to use the key to lock and unlock the doors. I don't think it's the battery because both remotes stopped working on the same day. The power lock button inside the car still works. Any ideas as to what is wrong with the remotes? The warranty ended log ago and I'd rather not bring it to the dealer if there is an easy fix.

  • cravecrave Posts: 4
    I just got a new 2001 civic EX sedan with a stick shift. it has a noticable whining sound when i drive on the freeways over approximately 75mph. can't really pinpoint where its coming from, but somewhere in the right front. i know it's a new car and probably only few people have this car but if you happen to know what i'm talking about, please let me know. i'm gonna take it to the dealer but it'd be nice to tell them the problem in more detail. thanks !
    btw, never pay above invoice. be firm and ready to go to another dealer is my advice.
  • are you saying you only paid invoice for a 2001 ex? if you did, you must be a great negotiator! if you have a secret.........share it with us.
  • cravecrave Posts: 4
    before i got my car, i did a ton of research on prices online. i never found invoice prices on the 2001's, but it's probably around the 2000 models. don't think that just because the design is new, they can charge more. thats what they want you to think. they're gonna make money from this design for years to come.
    you just have to prepare yourself for all kinds of tactics they throw at you. the bad dealers will have super nice sales people, and then give you vague numbers and throw you into the financing office as quickly as possible. in there, they'll start printing out contracts and explaining how they have to make a profit. don't buy it. they'll pretend to be shocked when you make your counter offer.. they'll bring in more and more 'managers'.. they'll tell you if you can find a better deal, good luck. they'll make you sign stuff they written on scratch paper.. you can play along with them, it's ok. just don't sign the actual contract and hand over a check the first time you go in. if you think y're getting a good deal, say you'll come back tomrrow. the car isn't going anywhere. honda doesn't make just one car that happens to fit all your needs. remember, if they're willing to sell to you, they ARE making a profit. so see how low you can go at one dealership, and go to another one and start there. you gotta make them think you're serious and ready to buy, and then they'll be willing to lower the price. go to a dealer that has won some consumer satisfaction awards from Honda. they'll be nicer and more willing to deal.
    as for invoice price, i think it's mostly crap. would you buy a t-shirt from GAP for 28 bucks if they told you it cost them a buck fifty? if GAP was a car dealer, it'd tell you the invoice for the t-shirt was 26 and MSRP it 30.
    don't back down. you'll be a lot happier to pay a price that YOU give them 3 years later when you're still paying the payments.
  • cravecrave Posts: 4
    err.. that last message seemd alot shorter when i was typing it. sorry ;) incase you're wondering, i paid 15500 for the car, and i KNOW that's high. if anyone is buying a EX sedan, aim below 15K and stay there (:
  • $15,500 is approx $200 over invoice. 15k would be under invoice. you got a great deal.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    You did get a great deal. Please let us know how you like the car. Interesting post about negotiating. I got a great deal on my Y2K EX, because they thought they would kill me on aftersell. Didn't work. The dealer where I bought was relentless and unscrupulous. But I was too smart for them. They really didn't know how to handle me. They "accidentally" added in the extended warranty which I vehemently refused. They also "accidentally" wrote up the deal with the wrong finance rate. Coincidentally, they also tried to screw me left and right. You're so right about more managers coming in, but, I just viewed that as more of a challenge and an opportunity to figure out where i could outsmart them next. It's a shame the industry has gotten like this, but it just goes to shwo you really can't be too alert. I do understand from others I know who recently bought that alot of car dealers operate like this now. SAD!
  • don't post your techniques in the smart shopper section of edmunds like the "any questions for a car dealer" or "inconsiderate buyer". those car sales "professionals" will rip you a new one :)

    they'll call you a few names like mooch or grinder and use some sarcastic dialog to show you what they think of anyone that would dare to try to get a good deal. i've been reading those forums for a few months and you'll find some real sleeze posting there.

    great job you guys....... that's the way to negotiate!
  • bnormannbnormann Posts: 335

    Back to Maintenance folks. I co-hosted Smart Shopper for 6 months and don't want to hear ANY MORE car shopping nueroses.

    TIA Your host, Bruce
  • cc15cc15 Posts: 5
    I got this new Honda Civic 2000 Ex auto with ABS
    about three weeks ago. I posted a message about the noise from my car. It happens only after you first start the engine and drive forward (actually I heard it once when driving reversely). On the day I picked up the car, I went back and asked the salesman about the noise. He told me it was normal and it was from the ABS. Since I never heard it on other Honda cars with ABS, I went to the dealer's service department at downtown,and had a technician checked the noise. He told me immediately that it was a problem from the exhaust system. He also said he had never seen such a problem on a brand new car in his 21 years working as a technician. He changed a gasket, but the noise was still there. I
    went to the dealer's maintenance center on the same day and had another technician (who has 12 years experience)test drove it with me. This technician also told me it was the problem of the exhaust system. He changed the whole pipe (pipe B). We test drove together. The noise was gone then. But when I drove my car again a day after that, the same noise came back again. I went back to the downtown service again and asked the same technician (with 21 years experience)about the same noise, this time he told me that it was from the ABS. I'm still not sure whether it's normal or a problem from any part of the car. So I went back to the downtown service again today. The technician insisted that it was the ABS. The other person there (looks like he is a manager assistant there, with 15 years
    experience), told me that it was ABS. I asked him how come both technicians (one has 21 years
    experience, one has 12 years experience) told me it was a problem of the exhaust system and changed
    the gasket and pipe for it. This person said that
    the Civic ABS is new and a different system from
    other ABS,and maybe the first diagnose was wrong.

    Does anyone know anything about the Honda Civic EX
    ABS? Does it make any noise (it's loud enough not
    to be ignored)every time only after you start the
    engine and drive forward? Thanks.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    If what you hear is like a little buzz after start up and moving the car, then not again until the car is shut off and the conditions are repeated then, yes it is normall and is the ABS.To verify this find your ABS pump under the hood(big orange connector)usally a 2Pin and disconnect it and see if the noise is gone.Then reconnect. If you are not comfortable doing this then have the tech do it with you in the car with him.The noise will happen every time the car is started and moved so it is easy to duplicate the noise.The ABS does this as a self test and to keep the system active, which helps keep the solenoids from sticking.Good luck..
  • you're right. this forum should only be about maintenance and i'll try to control my neuroses. although i was very impressed, what does you hosting the smart shopper have to do with it?
  • Hey Guys,

    I got an oil change this past weekend and noticed there was rusting in the engine compartment. The dealer service dept said it was the exhaust manifold (I didn't know what it was) and it was normal for it to rust even though I had the car for less than 9 months. He said that it is possible to see BRAND new cars with rusty exhaust manifold... Is it really normal?

  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    I have recently purchased a 2000 Civic Coupe EX. In the second week of owning the car, my heater stopped working and only cold air would come out.
    I took it into the dealership, and they replaced the thermostat. The next day, the same problem arose. For two weeks after that, the heater seemed to work fine.

    Tonight, I drove my car for about 35 miles on the highway. Parked the car for about 40 minutes. Started the car again, turned the heater after a few minutes : Cold air.

    Left the car alone for about 30 minutes, started again: Hot air would came out from the vents.

    Started to head back on the highway: Heat was to high so turned the temp dial half way. Started to get cold in the car and turned the dial to a hotter setting, and again all I would get is cold air.

    Has anyone had similar problems? Any suggestions on what might be causing this problem?
  • app1nagapp1nag Posts: 15
    your posts are one hand you say do not ever pay more than invoice but that's exactly what you just did.
  • app1nagapp1nag Posts: 15
    While looking through prior posts I noticed one from ec123 about a squeaky seat in an Si. I've had the same problem and was wondering if others are also experiencing this. Honda has already replaced the seat rails and this worked for about a week. They will now be replacing the seat back but they are not sure if this will fix it.
  • cravecrave Posts: 4
    i took my 2001 EX to the dealer, turns out that the windshield molding on the passenger side is a bit loose. maybe because it wasn't attached or glued properly. so the plastic parts vibrate at high speeds. talked to my friend who has an accord coupe, and she had similar problem. they're ordering replacement parts and will be fixed next week.
    app1nag, good observation there....
  • ec123ec123 Posts: 12
    Please let me know if replacing the seat back works...the sound was pretty annoying for a while...but now that I'm shifting better...I find that I'm not encountering the sound anymore. Are you a new stick driver or a veteran? I'm wondering if our driving habits have anything to do with it. Regardless...the seat shouldn't please share if the problem was solved...and how you got the dealer to do all that work. Thanks!
  • Attention all of you in this conference!!

    If anyone is experiencing heavy paint chipping problems on their Honda Civic Si's please read on.

    If your model year(s) are 1999-2000 and you have noticed excessive paint chipping on your car's body panels here's what we need to do.

    Please e-mail Me at [email protected] with all of your paint complaints. I'm trying to put a major complaint in with the manufacturer's recall department. This might mean a recall-repaint order to be filed. OR Honda Civic Si owners may be compensated for the loss of value the defect has caused. I know this is a problem. The paint is too thin, and isnt flexable enough to stand up to minor elements. Please help out if you get a chance! Your name is not important. If you wish, please indicate the area of the US you live in..ex..midwest/eastcoast/westcoast/ and so on. Thanks!!
  • The remanufactured Jasper engine seems to be doing well in my '85 Civic Wagon. I just did the 500m oil change that's required under the warranty.

    The engine runs smooth, so let's hope I go another 240K.

    Thanks again for your previous comments.

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Glad to see all is going well.I like to see those high mileage cars keep going strong so good luck..
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    I hope you find your money to be well spent.

    The problem with investing a huge sum of money in an old car is this...Suppose it gets wrecked tomorrow? When you put a 4000.00 engine into a 400.00 car, you still have a 400.00 car.

    It's kinda case of an accident, the insurance company won't care about your recent investment.

    On the other hand..what can you get for 4000.00 these days?

    Also, a 240,000 mile car is getting tired in other ways...even a Honda!

    Tough call...I guess only time will determine if your decision was a prudent one.

    Personally, I would have walked away from it.
This discussion has been closed.